The O'Neill Legacy

the three most important things of life surf surf sir first in last out we started wetsuits they used to laugh at us but then they could see that first hit colette soon with he's the last out the main thing with this house is a surf out there I get I get up in the morning I go down three floors and I got a porthole down there and I could take a shower and look out at the surf in the morning that really gives me a pickup it I tore out the stairs and put in a trampoline it's one of the best things I did in a spot like this you can look out see when it's not too crowded and grab your board about get a few waves actually this is a great bathtub area when the surf is big will get waves that come up and you get spray sitting in the back of it really a nice experience cousin surfing for me was kind of a therapy jump in the ocean and feel alright again you just get one wave it everything's okay we have good waves out there but we couldn't we couldn't last long I just wanted to surf longer just worked on something to make it last longer yeah we did it first I used to take a had a small hot-air balloon I used to take off and to come back I never really got back to me I got pretty good at water landing that's for something simple the kids surfing today are doing things we never dreamed about this is where the dreams come true and dreams get shattered and people come heroes and people come body-bags you know this is what it is to get a wave is that powerful not big really a dick I don't realize how much the mountains were pardon me until I've been away from for a while I mean I love ripping down mountains and wine powder but why the joy just comes from being in mountains snow is only frozen water over half of our oxygen come from the ocean I think it's the ocean goal is we need to we've got to find a good substitute by hiding something for this oil there's so much pollution and it's going to be very very bad unless we make some real Corrections teaching the kids that the ocean is alive and we've got to take care of you

Channel: O'Neill

Views: 24,091

Rating: 4.9411764 out of 5

Keywords: oneill, surf, wetsuit, pioneer, legend, inventor

Id: EEWyHKzMVxg

Length: 6min 29sec (389 seconds)

Published: Tue Mar 23 2010