The most gruesome WarDog? Painting Wardog Karnivore KHORNE alligned

one of the first entries on new Hue was building the knight's abominant from the chaos Knights Army set and in this set we still have the two armatures which will also have their own unique creation we took the time to go through the building sculpting painting and the atmosphere that went into the night and in this episode we are going to create a unique Armature with the same treatment so it's time to get into the story of this armatures creation [Music] with this Armature I want the build to be fully melee and with that I wanted to capture the Frantic berserk nature of ripping things apart and as we won't be using the standard monopose of the Armature we're going to need to make some changes first we will cut out the waist and the leg pieces glue the waist together and now we need to break their legs at the knee joints to do this we'll use a sharp knife to score the joints and then slowly break the piece into two with both sides cut I'll then glue the pieces together and we should be left with two thighs and two Shin Parts with the legs now glued and set there will need to be a little bit of a cleanup required using a sharp knife I will run this along the old joint and clear out any plastic frays this is done on both sides that will just cut previously once it's cleaned up I'll use Tamiya glue to clear any shavings and to smooth the area now we are left with the legs separated which will help with the posing for the overall style next is dealing with the waist because the hip joints are already angled and keyed I'll remove the key slot and cut the right hip joint so I can rotate its angle with the hips now ready we can start to glue on the legs let's start with the right leg and to begin we will angle the thigh higher ready for the pose that I want to capture for the left thigh this will be angled downwards in order to do that I'll use the rotary tool to carve the hip joint down and to get the correct angle the next part is dealing with the Torso just like the Knight I do not like the waist sitting right into the Torso this gives no range of motion so we will add a waste extender and this will give us that extra space for the pose I wanted to catch the Armature as if it's just left forward and it's now searching for its next victim and with the leap I want it as if it's just landed on a vertical Rock so in order to get the correct angle on the legs it's going to need a lot of changing on the shin portion or we can make some extra leg joints these extra joints will connect between the original thigh and the shin to attach the extensions we will grind out the keyed Groove and then super glue the piece onto the thigh the next part is connecting the shin onto the extender in order to do this we will pin both the shin and the extension ready to be glued to each other so using the rotary tool and some paper clips I'll drill the hole fill it with some super glue and insert the paper clip the next part is attaching the Torso because we are gluing directly onto the waste extender we will use super glue to fix the two pieces together again posing the Torso to match the Dynamics of the overall movement with the overall body now done the next part is working on the feet and the connections onto the base as you can now see the base is already designed allowing us to get the right angle so testing multiple positions as to which way round the ankles should face and with the solution figured out the next part is to work on the toes most of the toes will be just left as they are simply because they work with the pose but there are a few toes which will need to be modified so they aren't just floating in mid-air again for this model we're going to go with an all melee approach I didn't want to use the chain swords so instead I chose to go with the dual power claw this way I can capture the more feral style considering the pose so grab the spruce cut out the pieces and glue the hands together the same approach will be done for the upper part and the connection points now that we have the entire arm for both sides we can now attach them to the model and start to pose them in order to match with the current pose when I finally got the correct angle I'll glue the piece in and use Tamiya on the joints to fuse them together the last part is adding the clause and for it I wanted the talons to be opened wide so these will be glued on in that fashion the same process is followed for the opposite arm the next major part is the head for this Armature we will use the bone Raptor style head again this is going to be reposed so using a sharp knife I will score around the bottom jaw and get a clean removal of the lower jaw with the part separated now we can start the re-sculpting using a rotary tool I'll carve out the upper jaw joint ensuring I don't carve too deeply into the skull a quick knife cleanup and now we can Repose the jaw now that we have the overall body completed there are just a few parts left to do here we will get rid of any obvious mold lines and attach the smaller chains and exhausts now the Armature is starting to look really menacing but there are still a few bits missing here for some extra touches we'll be attaching some extra chains around each arm to start I'll add a small dot of super glue onto the model use a toothpick to hook the first chain link and then begin to lay the chain through the glue once the glue sets we can now start to wrap the chain around the arm and this process is repeated on both arms so with that said let's roll a quick montage [Music] thank you [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign with the chains now done I couldn't help but feel as if there was a piece still missing from this model especially with the pose everything just seems very front heavy you all probably know what's missing but Arthur what do we need oh it needs a tail so let's add a tail judging how the abominant's tail is attached we will follow the same style to start we'll need to remove the handlebar and fill the vents on the back to get a smooth area once the area is ready we will glue the piece into place with super glue huh strange this Armature is actually starting to look like a robotic dinosaur with the tail now attached all we need to do is Prime and we're ready to start the painting process uh Arthur that that's the wrong scene what you talking about boy the episode it isn't over just yet still need to paint the model but it's been used it's been breaking those episodes into two why is it I gotta do all the hard work around here Arthur just followed the script God damn it I ain't got time for this well I'll be a son of a gun [Music] to start the painting we will Begin by getting the skeletal frame painted first so we will base the entire frame in lead Belcher to do this I'll use an airbrush and apply several coats with the base color now on we will then coat the entire frame in streaking grime again through the airbrush now a word of warning here if you're going to use this through the airbrush then you need to make sure that the space is well ventilated and you are wearing a good quality respirator you do not want to be breathing in any of these paints we're about to be using once the model is coated use mineral spirits and a Q-tip to clean the majority off the model this will give the frame some depth in the shadows and a quick note you don't need to be very careful here just work on removing the highest parts the next part is now adding the Ross detail though there wasn't going to be any rust what do you think this is the clean Society for this part we will again use the airbrush and apply AK interactive's dark rust deposits this will be applied to all the recesses and Joints with a little overspray on the flatter areas once it's dry we will again start another reduction process using mineral spirits and a toothbrush we will once again work on removing the majority of the dark rusts so saturate the toothbrush in the spirits and then first strike the model in One Direction this will start the reduction process once the spirits evaporate you can then start to buff the remaining rust deposits into the base color thank you the next step is back into the booth to use light Ross deposits and apply this into the deepest recesses and Joint connections when it's dried we will take the toothbrush without the spirits this time and start striking again in the same direction as before this will start to blend into the dark rusts and the streaking Grime that's been put down underneath the reasons I prefer to work with these rust products is they work great with the reductive work style which I adopt throughout all of my paintings a lot of the time we are thinking of putting the paint down in order to build up the areas of Interest or detail but with some areas removing the paint is far superior in obtaining a more realistic and dynamic range sure you can instead opt to put the paint down manually and layer it up to get that detail but you will struggle in obtaining the unnatural streaking and partial blending in a non-uniformed pattern even when we try it's very difficult to create a non-uniformed pattern and it's a tricky mindset to wrap the mind around to put paint down only to remove it with the rust coloring now put down let's start on working on bringing that steel color back through for this we'll be moving on to the wax metallics using AK interactive's true metal iron we will apply this onto a tissue and begin to work the paint into a long bristled brush the motion wheel work is similar to dry brushing however unlike dry brushing we need to work more of the paint off the brush first and then we are buffing the paint onto the model for this we will again strike the model in the same direction as before down the model the reason we are using these paints instead of acrylics is this paint is very pigment heavy and very easy to apply the paint is very sensitive to texture and will apply to any surface with ease another great thing is with this paint nature to apply easily to any textures we're going to get some random spots of smaller highlights on the flatter surfaces this will also simulate more texture for the final highlight we will use AK interactive's true metal Steel and this will be used for the sharpest edges again following the same method as before work the paint into the brush clean the most off and buff the paint on with a light touch currently this is what the frame is now looking like next we'll add some quick coloring to the Pistons adding Mecca oil stains into the areas to simulate oil another detail we will add is for the Torso taking Vermilion and watering this down four to one four parts water one part paints with this thinned mixture we will place this into all of the Torso pipes and cabling to emulate a subtle glow inside because this mixture is very watery don't be afraid of any painter that runs wild simply use a Q-tip with some water and clean the area this may take several coats when getting closer to the center of the Torso for the skull this will be a base coat of orange ocher and then our highlights on one side of pale Sands with the skull based we will wash with seraphim sepia firstly in a uniformed wash and then going back in with a clean Wet Brush and cleaning the highest points when doing this you'll need to work quickly Citadel washes will cause stains if you attempt to move or disturb the paint That's partially dry [Music] to finish we'll dry brush pale sands over the highest areas to catch those raised edges and then for the eyes we'll use moot green through the airbrush to create a small OSL effect [Music] now it's time to start working on the armor panels the first coat will be valeco field blue this will be used to coat all of the armor panels the next color will be orange ocher this will be focused on the flatter areas here we are going to maintain the previous color visible in the recesses and the Shadows [Music] foreign the next color is then pale Sands this is for the highest spot where the lights will touch again keep the previous colors in the recesses and allow for the ocher to be visible on the Lesser areas where the light wouldn't entirely touch [Music] foreign for the shoulders we'll put down the fiston red again keep the field blue in the lower recesses next we'll use Vermilion for the higher areas to simulate the light and now comes the fun part all the pieces we just used will be coated in AK interactive streaking rusts give each armor panel a good coating and allow this to dry for a few minutes [Music] now that it's dry we will saturate the area in white spirits ensure the whole area is coated and then stroke the armor panel with a weathering brush in one solid Direction give it a few seconds for the spirit to react with the enamel and then begin to add more spirits on top this will cause a reaction and drag the pigment down the scratch marks we have just done with the weathering brush again going between the weathering brush and re-saturating the panel until we have reached the right amount of streaking that we want because some of the panels are smaller than the knights we will use a brush saturated in spirits to get a more controlled removal of certain streaks this process is repeated on every panel [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] once we are happy with the end result we will varnish the area ready for the next steps give the varnish 24 hours to dry naturally or if you're in patients like myself a hair dryer will be your best friend the next step is to increase some of the streaks so taking shrieking rusts again and a brush we will add streaks in a more concentrated area do not worry about being neat we're going to clean them up once this is dried with Spirits with the brush we are now going to clean the edges of the streaks that we have just put down when doing this we are running the brush tip along the edge and slowly bringing it into the center of the streak at the bottom with the streaking done we will now start to deal with the metallics and for the top carapace we'll base coat the pipes and chains in AK interactive's true metal iron for the front trim we'll be going for a brass effect in achieving this we are going to be blending two metallics for the base coat to start we're going to be using AK interactives copper and this will be used in the areas of the trim that's in the shadows and recesses for the upper Parts we'll use AK interactive's true metal brass because these are wax paints they do blend very well with each other and they also react well when introduced to oils which we'll be adding later this process is repeated on all the trim on the armor brass on the Highlight spots and copper in the shadows and darker spots next for the trim we're going to be using oils to start we're going to use Starship filth which will be coated on all of the steel let it quickly dry and then wipe the coloring off the next color will be for the brass trim using abdelong 502 copper oxide blue patina this is thinned down in a two to one mix ratio two-part Spirits one part oils apply this thin mixture to all of the rivets and tight spots wait a few minutes for this to dry and then take a dry Q-tip and start to wipe the oils down the trim the color will start to smear but also it will start to blend into the wax undercoat this process may need to be repeated multiple times on all of the armor panels the next part is to work on the highlights and for this we'll take AK interactive's true metal gold and begin the same buffing process as we did on the frame load up the brush remove most of the paint and then lightly buff the trim with the gold that we have finished with the trim we will work on getting the Center Stone painted to begin this we will put a base coat of rylox hide and allow this layer to dry the next color will be Vallejo Vermilion and thin this mixture to a four to one mix four parts water one Parts paint this will mix the paint down into a glaze consistency once we have the correct amount loaded onto the brush we will begin to layer up on top of the rhinox Hide to do the glazing I will pull the paint into One Direction and ending at the point where I want the paint pigment to be the most concentrated once this layer is down it's time to wait for this to dry you can't wait for this to dry naturally or grab the hair dryer we don't want you falling asleep watching paint dry we will repeat this process multiple times until we get the correct gradient to red [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] once we are happy with the red side we will then make a glaze of the rhinox hide in the same manner load up the brush and then begin to pull the thin layer from the center back into the dark side again this will need a few layers [Music] foreign have our gradient we will then take Ivory and add two small dots to one top corner and then a guided outline on the opposite bottom corner to simulate the light bending through the gemstone perfect part is to really tone down the iron pipes and chains on the top carapace here we will use dirty down and place a thin coating over the areas give it a few minutes to dry and then take a wet Q-tip and remove the dirty down this will leave the recesses this process is repeated several times to get the right intensity that we are after [Music] now that the model is coming to a close end we will now add the extra bits to really bring this model together first we'll deal with the skeleton frame using the same bread as we put down on the wash we will use the airbrush and add a more concentrated glow into the center part of the Torso and the vents next we'll use Valejo yellow and this will be isolated into the center areas of the previous layer that we've just put down this will simulate the heat emanating from this source now it's time to start adding the gore to do this I want to add blood and sinew draping between both claws as if he's just Rampage through a whole unit to do this we'll be using uhu glue and mixing in blood for the blood God onto a piece of paper get the two mediums mixed together and then take two toothpicks and start to string the gloopy glue along the claws and spikes the glue will start to stick onto the sharp edges when the glue has a grip then it's time to slowly pull the glue and allowing it to stretch and leave long strings along the model the key is to be as random as possible and surprisingly this is very difficult in doing [Music] beautiful [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] foreign [Music] once we have the majority on the model we'll take just a clear uhu glue and repeat the process once again [Music] the next part is to add the blood splattering load up the brush and then start to flick lightly along each claw some of the Splats will land on the midsection but the concentration will land onto the claws and this will simulate the center part where the splattering has originated from the base we'll start to color in the water using Valejo blue and coat the entire flooring next we'll use black brown for the stones and this will be used along the edge of the stone where it's meeting the water for the Rocks we'll add a quick simple gradient from Ashen gray through to warp fiend grow the next part is using paint mix to a wash consistency taking a bright red a green and a blue we'll add random streaks across all of the stone and let this set in and let it freely mix along the Rocks just make sure there are some clear streaks of the color [Music] foreign we'll now dry brush etching gray over the top and then do a final highlight dry brush of dawn stone the water effects we will use effect water and then start to push the mixture into place first with the brush and then use an airbrush to get the waves and effects around the bodies finally we'll be using some dried Moss to act as Vines wrapping around the bodies blending them into the background a pair of tweezers and a toothpick will get this job done [Music] from here all that's left to do is paint the trim let everything dry and then we are left with this foreign [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] foreign [Music]

Channel: NuHue

Views: 20,996

Keywords: warhammer, 40k, war, hammer, chaos, knight, wardog, karnivore, paint, airbrush, rust, palid, red, dirty down, pale, dirt, grime, blood, guts, sinue

Id: wkQvxJKs7ss

Length: 32min 19sec (1939 seconds)

Published: Sun Oct 23 2022