Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette.
In today's video, we discussed the formality scale of clothes because you
can only ever be well-dressed if you're properly attired for the occasion. So is
it appropriate for the occasion is often stipulated by the level of formality of
the event. For example, you wear something different when you just go grocery
shopping or to the gym then if you go to a garden party to your office or a gala
event. It's a big question becomes, how do you know if a garment is casual, formal,
or somewhere in between? In this video, we covered the general principles of nearly
every garment in classic menswear and we give you general clues, so you can get an
idea if something is more in a casual end or in a formal end or simply in the
golden middle. Back in the day, it used to be a little easier since formality
skills were very strict. In this day and age, everything is more vague and fluid
and so looking at those principles can even help you more to nail your outfit.
So without further ado, let's jump right into the general principles starting
with the colors -- casual versus formal color schemes.
Generally speaking, brighter colors are more casual than darker colors, so for
example, a mid-blue suit is less formal than a navy or charcoal suit. Now a smart
tip is to think of colors you would typically see during the summer as being more casual,
with maybe the exception of beige, blue, and white because they're appropriate
year-round. This concept is based on a long-established distinction between
town and country where which originated in England. Back then shades of brown or
not were in town because it was more associated with a rural countryside
meanwhile charcoal gray were navy blue suits would be worn to conduct proper
business in London and even outside of London. Today, the no-brown in town rule
is no longer relevant because overall the spectrum has more shifted towards
the casual end of things and you can wear a pair of brown oxford shoes in
town, and to the office in nearly any setting these days. Next up,
let's look at texture and how that can define whether something is casual or
formal. Overall, the smoother and shinier a fabric is, the more formal it is. For
example, a textured basketweave fabric is more likely to be encountered on a
casual sport coat or maybe even a casual suit, and a pair of corduroy is typically
found in a pair of casual pants not dress pants. Overall, the more visible and
pronounced a weave or a texture is, the more casual the garment is. Along those
lines, a tie in a slubby shantung silk which is
a bit more matte is less formal than a shiny satin silk bow tie in black. So how
come shiny fabrics are part of classic menswear? Well they're considered to be a
texture and rather smooth and typically, they're found in evening wear.
For example, the lapel of a tuxedo typically is faced in shiny silk and so
is the cummerbund. Similarly, velvet is a fabric that has
some sheen to it and it's often used for dinner jackets. If you want to learn more
about black tie and white tie in general, check out the black tie guide and white tie guide and for dinner
jackets specifically, head over to the black tie and dinner jacket guide. Along those same lines, shiny patent
leather is traditionally used as an evening shoe either as an Oxford without
a cap toe, or an opera pump. Next, let's look at how patterns can increase or
decrease the level of formality. Generally, garments with patterns especially
bolder ones or more casual. Traditionally in British tailoring, any form of
houndstooth plaid used to be something worn in the countryside. Of course, over
time things changed and by sizing patterns down such as the Prince of Wales
check and making them more muted, they became appropriate for office wear as
well. Another exception to rules were accessories such as a pocket square or a
tie because they could be patterned even in a formal office setting. Traditionally,
pocket squares and ties were made out of silk and the fine shiny texture of
silk superseded the pattern that was printed or woven on them.
The smaller pattern the more formal it becomes and as such, you can wear a
small patterned tie with formal morning wear such as a morning coat which is the
most formal dress code during the day. Of course, the size of the pattern also
correlates with the color so a bright windowpane is a little more casual than
a very subdued windowpane with the same size. So how does structure correlate with
formality? Well it's simple, the more structure a garment has, the more
formal it is. When it comes to tailoring our jackets, there's a term military
tailoring which means you're very stiff canvas or interlining which creates a
very smooth look without any wrinkles that is considered to be very formal and
proper. On a flip side, an unlined jacket without any padded shoulders in a linen
fabric has no structure or very little structure and is, therefore, more casual.
For classic neckties, it means that something with an unlined tipping where
there is no structure is less formal than a tipped tie which is just a little
stiffer. The same is true for shirts or dress shirts. More formal shirts will
have a stiffer interlining in the collar and the cuffs to just create a smooth
look. On the other hand, a more casual shirt with let's say, about down collar
does not have any stiff interlining, it is very soft and more casual. Of course,
no one single item defines the formality scale in total. You always have to take
into account other things such as color, texture, and fabric weight. Furthermore,
the purpose, the origins, and the historic use of a garment can also have an impact
on it's formality scale. So something originally intended for country wear or
for sports or utilitarian wear is more casual than something meant to be worn
during the evening. For example, think of a tennis sweater or a pair of shorts
which are both more on the casual spectrum. On the other hand, a three-piece
suit is always more on the formal side even though it may come in a more casual
fabric such as a brown houndstooth, and their details such as patch pockets, a
belt in the back and a shooting plate. Alright. Now that you know the general
rule, let's move on to specific garments. Starting with the jacket, the less
structure a jacket has, the less formal it becomes. That's a
reason why many men who prefer to wear more structured suits for classic
business outfits tends to navigate towards more of a Neapolitan style that
is very soft and unstructured. For out-of-office wear, jackets in the
Neapolitan style are often completely unpadded and have very little or no
structure at all. Never favoured by men who don't have to wear suits but who
just choose to dress for fun and wear them because it's comfortable for them,
but they still enjoy the look of the suit. In terms of fabric, the general rules
apply here. A suit or a jacket in a brown linen or maybe a corduroy is more casual
than something in a plain worsted weave, or a very fine twill. Small patterns
such as a pinpoint, sharkskin or a hopsack is a little less formal but in
a navy dark color, they're still perfectly appropriate for a business
suit in this day and age. If you were to rank different materials in the formality
scale, we'd start with linen at the casual and followed by cotton and maybe
tweeds and flannels far from that you have worsted wools and fine cashmere
or silk-wool blends. To learn more about the difference between flannel and worsted
fabric and how they're made differently, please check out this in-depth guide
on Worsted and Flannel. Also, think about wrinkles, materials such as linen or cotton
wrinkle more, they have more texture, and therefore, more casual. If you wanna
learn more about those materials, check out the guides on our website. On
the flip side, wool is very wrinkle resistant and therefore, more formal. Of
course, the weight of the fabric also impacts the degree of formality. The
heavier and coarser something is, the more casual it is. On the other hand, a
super to hundreds or a very fine thin wool is in a more formal end of the
spectrum unless, of course, you get it in a purple color that makes it more casual.
Again, in terms of buttoning, double-breasted is traditionally more formal than
single-breasted and because of that, it's traditionally worn with peak lapels. The
more buttons you have in a jacket the more casual it gets. That's why most
dinner jackets have only a single button because it's the most formal version.
Business suits have two or three buttons and
fashionable suits have more four or five buttons. For double-breasted jackets, four
or six buttons are most common, to eight or more are more uncommon. Another very
important feature in terms of formality scale in a jacket are its pockets. Patch
pockets, no matter if they have flaps or not, are considered to be the most casual
option followed by flap pockets and having jetted pockets to be the most
formal variety. Traditionally flap pockets were used for country wear because you
go horseback riding and a flap to prevent things from falling out of your
pocket. On the other hand, jetted pockets being a more formal end of the spectrum
are typically found in things like dinner jackets and tuxedos, which is why
if you find a tuxedo with flap pockets you know that it's historically
incorrect and you should rather move on and buy something with a pair of jetted
pockets. Adding additional pockets such as a ticket pocket makes things more
casual even though it is still okay in this day and age to wear a three-piece
pinstripe suit which is rather than a formal end and wearing it with a ticket
pocket. The same is true for angled pockets, which are additionally called
hacking pockets which come from the word hack or Hackney which means saddle. To
learn more about the hacking jacket, its origins, and how the pockets got angled,
please check out the hacking guide on our website. Another great way to
determine the formality of a jacket is by looking at its lapels. A notch lapel
is less formal than a peak lapel, and a shawl collar is somewhere in between.
Because of that, a tuxedo or a dinner jacket will traditionally always
have a peak lapel and never a notched lapel. Maybe sometimes a shawl collar, but notch
lapels -- no. A variation and a peak lapel is a so-called Tautz lapel which was
invented by the Savile row tailor E.Tautz. It's characterized by pointing straight
out but it still looks very much like a peak lapel. A variation on a notch lapel
is a so-called Knize lapel, named after the famous Venice tailor house Knize.
It looks more like a notched lapel but it has an angled core
similar to a peak lapel. Last but not least, the type of vent you choose also
has an impact on the formality of the jacket as a whole. Basically, you have
three options: no vent, single vent, or side vents. Traditionally, the most casual
option is a center vent which was invented for horseback riding so you
wouldn't expose your rear or your bum. On the other hand, in the 1930s most suits
would have no vents because that would create a very clean-looking silhouette, and
was considered to be the most formal option. Because of that, even in
garments such as a tuxedo typically have no vents at all. Back then it
would've been improper to stand there with the hands in your pockets but these
days, it's much more normal and when you do that with a jacket that has no vents,
it just looks bad. On the other hand, a jacket with the side vents
is a little more comfortable, you can still put your hands in your pocket and
look good and overall, they're more formal than a center vent because it
doesn't expose your bum. Formality-wise, side vents sit in the middle between the
central vent and no vent but honestly, today, most suits jackets are made with
side vents and it's a good option. I've even seen tuxedos with side vents.
Personally, I'm a purist and so I prefer no vents on any form of tuxedo or dinner
jacket. Now that you know everything about the jacket, let's move on to pants.
First, look at the center of the pants. If there's a sharp crease, that means it's a
more formal trouser. If it's a flat front without any crease, it's a more casual
trouser. Dress pants are usually made up of wool because they really keep a nice
crease versus more casual. Trousers can be made out of cotton or linen or blends,
typically if you have a pair of pants with pleats, you get a better crease and
they're also a little fuller and whether you should still wear them on this day
and age, please check out this video on Should Men Wear Pleated Pants? More casual pants such as chinos are
typically made in a thicker cotton fabric which wrinkles more and doesn't
hold a crease as well and is, therefore, overall more casual.
Also, the more decorative elements you have such as rivets or contrast
stitching, the more casual the garment gets. Just think about a pair of jeans,
for example, which is more casual. Adding cuffs to your pants make it more casual
but I usually like it because it adds an additional weight, which means
the trousers drape better. Also the more pockets you have on a pair
of pants, the more casual it gets. Because of that, evening pants oftentimes don't
feature any side pockets or back pockets because the idea is that you hit a clean
line that looks very nice, and you are not supposed to use the pockets anyways.
On the other hand, a pair of jeans has two pockets in the back, two pockets on
the side, and sometimes a little coin pocket. On top of that, that makes it more
utilitarian and casual. Now, when it comes to shirts, the fabric color loan doesn't
really determine the level of formality. There's also things like the texture and
the weave of the shirt, as well as the pockets, the cuffs, and the collar. On top
of that, you have details such as the stitching and contrast. For example, look at the
Oxford cloth button-down shirt. It's typically made in a thicker fabric, it
has a two-tone texture which is more casual, it has a pocket on the chest,
it features barrel cuffs and a button-down collar which is both soft
and overall, it's a more casual shirt that is typically more warm with a
sport coat or on its own, not with a three-piece business suit. To learn more
about the so-called OCBD, please check out our guide. If you want to move
up a notch in formality, go with pinpoint shirt fabrics or broadcloth
since they represent a middle ground that can be worn with more casual
outfits but also with business suits. More elevated shirt fabrics are
typically the ones with more sheen in a finer weave with a higher spun cotton. In
terms of patterns, you can apply to general rules -- the bigger the pattern is
and the more colorful, the more casual it is. The smaller or none existent the
patter is and the more neutral the colors are, the more formal it gets. That
being said, evening shirts are the most formal ones and it typically have a
pleated insert or Marcella bib and that's just considered to be the special
uniqueness of an evening outfit. Likewise, starching a shirt makes it stiffer and
more structured and because of that, also more formal. Of course, starching a white
tie shirt is natural, on the other hand, starching a linen or a Madras
shirt doesn't make it more formal because the pattern is just too bold. As
I mentioned before, softer collar is more casual than a more structured collar
with a stiffer interlining. Also, any buttons on the collar make it more
casual. In terms of collar shapes, the semi spread or spread collar or classic
collar or kind of in the middle. Next up, is a tab collar. For an even more formal
style, go with a wing collar. Traditionally, those were detachable
collars that could just put on any shirt. In this day and age, it's much more
common to have colors that are sewn onto the shirt because detachable collars are
often much stiffer and sometimes also polished and shinier, they're always more
formal in the same shape in an attached color version. For a much more extensive
guide to dress shirt collars, please check out our Shirt Collar Guide. Finally, the last and
probably one of the most easiest way to determine the formality of a shirt is by
looking at its cuffs. Essentially the one sort of button cuff also known as a
barrel cuff are on the casual end. Next up, you have the French cuff or double cuff,
which is folded over and warm with cufflinks. Now the most formal cuffs are
stiff, starched single cuffs that are worn with cufflinks. You can see there's
a pattern here as soon as you add something softer it gets more casual, if
it has more starch and more structure, it is more formal. But for tailored jackets,
pants, and suits, wool has reigned supreme. When it comes to tie fabrics and neckwear, silk is undoubtedly the number one. However, not all silks are created equal on
the formality scale. Again, the shinier and the smoother the silk is, the more formal it
is. Because of that, shantung silk or tussah silk which is more matte and more
textured and courser, sometimes with some knobs is considered to be less
formal. In our top in terms of formality are knitted silks or grenadine silks
without more texture and a bit more sheen and regularity than a shantung silk
but still, less than let's say, a satin. Because of that, grounding and knit ties
are very popular these days because they can be worn for business or tradition.
Silk ties, at the same time, they have more texture and make things a bit more
casual than a traditional business tie. In recent years, silk has often been
blended with things like linen or wool to create a softer look that is more in
line with a casualization of menswear even on a classic scale of things. That
being said, silk is sometimes get old for neckwear these days and
that's okay. It's fun to play with silk and without it and because of that, it
pays to have a range of different silk ties so you can just play and dress up
whatever jacket or suit you have, or dress it down in terms of formality. Of
course, the patterns on neckwear also influence its formality. A bolder more
lively pattern let's say, a paisley pattern is considered to be less formal.
A stripe somewhere in the middle and solids are more formal. Again, just like with
suits -- the smaller the pattern, the more formal the neckwear. When it comes to
men's shoes, obviously, the most casual thing is a pair of sneakers that is
followed by boat shoes and then loafers. Next up is a pair of Derby shoes which
was originally designed for country wear and it's a better choice for people with
bigger feet because it's more flexible in tying your shoes. If you want to take it
a notch up, you were a pair of monk straps and these days, double monk straps
are also really popular. They're somewhat in the same realm. With that being
said, I think the double monk is slightly more casual than the single monk. Now,
proper dress shoes are typically Oxfords which have a closed lacing
system and to learn how you can distinguish between Derbies, Oxfords, and
Bluchers, for example, please check out our guide. If you go back 150 years
ago, men would wear fine Balmoral or button boots with their very formal
frock coats. Now, in this day and age, you can still wear about Balmoral boots and
button boots and they're still considered to be very formal, but most
people would wear a pair of Oxfords when it calls for the most formal
footwear. When it comes to shoe colors, black is, of course, the most formal and
brown is less formal and more casual Colors like gray or olive green
are considered to be more casual. Darker colors such as navy or burgundy red
are also considered to be somewhat more formal. Of course, the shine and texture
principles apply here, too. Suede leather or nubuck is very casual and generally a
box calf leather that is unpolished is more casual than box calf that is polished
to a mirror shine. And last but not least, patent leather is considerably the most
formal texture. Why? Because it has the brightest shine of all of them. Of course,
ornamentation and structure influence the formality of a shoe as well; so the
more decoration, orientation, and broguing you have, the more casual the shoe gets. Because of that, a cap toe Oxford is more formal than a quarter brogue which
has a bit of ornamentation along the cap toe which is more formal than a semi
brogue which has more ornamentation which is more formal than a full brogue
which has sometimes a wingtip and a lot of ornamentation. So now that you pretty
much know all the general rules as well as individual garments and what makes them
more formal and less formal, how do you put it all together? Virtually speaking,
the best outfits were those that combined the same level of formality
throughout their outfit. That means they would wear a broadcloth shirt with
maybe a sport coat and a pair of Derby shoes because it shows the middle level
of formality for everything. In this day and age, things have changed a little bit
and people have started combining different levels of formality throughout
their outfit. For example, a double-breasted jacket always used to be
more formal than a single-breasted jacket and because of that, it always had
peak lapels and single-breasted jackets often had notched lapels. Because of that
you'd also rarely find a peak lapel jacket that was double-breasted with
patch pockets and typically, double-breasted jackets were made in
fine worsted fabrics and nothing casual. For example, look at Ralph Lauren who is
probably one of the most influential designers in menswear today. He wears a
dinner jacket with a pair of denim jeans and
cowboy boots which is not something you would ever put together in a traditional
menswear outfit and it's not something I would ever wear but for him, it kind of
works and of course he's a designer and he has to make a bolder statement. Also, the
more formal an outfit gets, the more important it is that you stick with the
same units of formality. For example, if you wear a three-piece pinstripe suit in
a dark navy, go with a finer shirt color, go with a silk tie, and don't combine it
with a pair of boat shoes but instead, with a pair of dark
Oxfords. The same is true for black tie, white tie, and evening wear in general,
you want to stick more to the traditional classic rules and don't just
start wearing a purple shirt but a white shirt because that's how the outfit is
well put together, and it just looks a lot better. Of course, if you're really
confident in the way you dress, you can maybe experiment with a green or
burgundy dinner jacket to just mix things up and underline your personal
level of style. On the flip side, on a more casual end, you can just try to mix
things up more and combine different levels of formality throughout your
outfit much more easily. My outfit in today's video is a great example of that.
My jacket is made out of a linen fabric in a classic Prince of Wales pattern
that has elements of turquoise, green, blue, and grey which is very summery, it
also has a lot of texture, then it features peak lapels which were
traditionally more formal but it has informal patch pockets and informal
white buttons. It has a bit of structure and some lining in the sleeves but the
back is unlined. I'm combining it with a shirt made of a more casual denim
fabric but as barrel cuffs makes it a little casual but a collar that could be
also worn with a three-piece suit if the shirt was white. I did skip the neckwear all together which makes it more casual but I'm wearing a silk pocket
square which makes it more formal and a boutonniere which adds a touch of color
and is definitely more stylish detail that earns you compliments, guaranteed.
You can find both of them in our Fort Belvedere shop. My pants are a
classic pair of cotton chinos and the crease
has come out and you see a bit of wrinkling, so it works well with my
jacket. My shoes are a pair of Darby shoes in dark brown to provide enough contrast so they're visually interesting but I make
them a bit more casual by adding a contrasting pair of shoelaces. Shoelaces are
a great way to change the look and the formality of your shoes simply by
changing a small detail that is very inexpensive. To learn more about
shoelaces and how we can combine them to your advantage, please check out our guides. The socks I'm wearing are shadow striped socks from Fort
Belvedere which is over the calf in light gray and blue which picks up the
color of my jacket but brought enough contrast between the shoes and my pants
to make them all work together. My pinky ring in white gold with a star sapphire
picks up the lighter color scheme of the outfit and my belt from Fort Belvedere
picks up that silver tone from the ring and combines it with the color of the
shoes in a dark chocolate brown. It's part of a belt system that allows you to
combine any belt with any buckle but it looks like a proper belt every time. To
learn more about it, head over to our shop.
