(mysterious music) (awe-inspiring music) - [Narrator] Britain is crisscrossed by an amazing network
of ancient trackways. These remarkable routes
are our oldest roads and have been traveled
for more than 5,000 years. (awe-inspiring music) - He's quite small, isn't he? - He is small, but he's mighty. - Small but mighty. I like that. - [Narrator] Walked by
pilgrims and traders, hunters and invaders, Celts and Romans, Saxons and Vikings. Each track is bound up in
myth, mystery, and legend. - Of all the archeological
finds I've come across, when I heard about it,
my jaw actually dropped. (fire crackling) I'm on a quest to connect the clues and rediscover the stories hidden among Britain's ancient pathways. I wanna find out what it is
that tempts today's travelers to go back in time and
rediscover these mystic tracks. (awe-inspiring music) Do you reckon that's the north star? - It's not the brightest star in the sky, but it's probably one of the most useful. - It's a bit like me. - Smell of leather.
You can still smell it. - 1,900-year-old leather. Isn't that absolutely amazing? (awe-inspiring music) - [Narrator] This week, I'm trekking the ancient
earthwork frontier that straddles the border
between England and Wales, Offa's Dyke. Inspired by legends that
transcend time itself, my walk along this remarkable route will reveal a mythical
monarch, romantic scribes, and a fearsome dragon.
(dragon snorts) These are the paths our
ancestors once followed. The ancient tracks that we in
Britain can still walk today. (awe-inspiring music) (waves whooshing) My journey begins in England on the shore at Sedbury, Gloucestershire on the southern starting point of something quite remarkable. (water whooshing) - This is the mighty River Severn. You've got Wales over
there, England over there. And since 1966, they've been linked by that
beautiful elegant bridge. And I actually feel quite at home here because I used to live just beyond that big
stanchion there in Bristol. And I still support Bristol City. Come on, you Reds! But that isn't the boundary that we're interested in today. Just beyond that big cliff, there is another boundary
between England and Wales. One that's existed for over 1,000 years and is full of myth and legend. It's time to explore Offa's Dyke. (awe-inspiring music) - [Narrator] Offa was an 8th-century king who ruled over a large part
of the English Midlands, then known as the Kingdom of Mercia. Offa's Dyke stretches more than 80 miles, dividing the two great
nations of England and Wales. Through centuries of tribal conflicts, religious strife, and local legends, this ancient border has helped define what it means to be English and Welsh. (awe-inspiring music) I'm going to walk north
from the Severn Estuary, along the Offa's Dyke path, a modern reinstated version
that follows the course of much of its ancient namesake. (awe-inspiring music) On my trek, I'll explore the borderlands between the ancient
English and Welsh kingdoms of Mercia and Powys, finishing my walk as the dyke crosses the River
Severn again near Welshpool. (bright music) (awe-inspiring music) Along the way, I'll walk in the wake of romantic
poet, William Wordsworth, explore the subterranean
resting place of King Arthur, confront Wales' fearsome mythical emblem, and ponder the priceless
gold coin issued by King Offa in praise of Allah. (bright music) Offa's Dyke, a massive
ditch and bank structure, has been around for more than 1,200 years. The earliest records of
this formidable frontier come as early as the 9th century when the Welsh monk Asser wrote, "There was in Mercia in fairly recent time a certain vigorous king called Offa who had a great dyke built
between Wales and Mercia from sea to sea." (bright music) - A lot of people have never
even heard of Offa's Dyke or have only got a vague idea where it is. And indeed, it is quite difficult
to find in the landscape for many of its miles. Although when you climb
up on a bit like this and get to the top, you are at the top of one of the most important
monuments in Britain. This took hundreds of man hours, thousands of people in order to make it. In fact, it's such a great
piece of ancient engineering that a lot of people compare it with the building of the pyramids. (bright music) (tense music) - [Narrator] But unlike the pyramids, King Offa's extraordinary
achievements have, in recent times, faded from view. It wasn't always this way. - Offa created this massive earthwork. But he also created something
else which is much smaller, but is still remembered. And it's this. We've all got them floating around in our pockets, haven't we? The humble penny. Offa established the English penny, which still exists over 1,000 years later. (somber music) - [Narrator] At the time
of his death in 796 AD, the penny had pronounced
Offa Rex Anglorum, king of the English. But it actually represented this visionary ruler's global ambitions when it came to currency and commerce. I'll reveal more about this later. (awe-inspiring music) Few written records were
kept of the dyke's build, though inevitably legends have flourished and the path, over time,
has become an inspiration for an illustrious roll call of authors and artists before me, that is, who have walked its route. (awe-inspiring music) At this next ominously-named
stop on my journey, I've been promised a
certain devilish sightseer. And a feast for the eyes at one of Britain's most awe-inspiring views. (bright music)
(birds chirping) - Can you see that
beautiful ruin over there? That, of course, is Tintern Abbey. And just below me down this rather hairy little path. Yep. There is. That is the Devil's Pulpit. (eerie music) This book was written in
the 1880s by Wirt Sikes. And he says, "Near Tintern Abbey, there is a jutting crag
overhung by gloomy branches of the yew called the Devil's Pulpit. (eerie music) His eminence," i.e. the Devil, "Used in other days and wickeder days to preach atrocious morals or immorals to the white robed
Cistercian monks of the abbey from this rock pulpit." (eerie music) In other words, here he'd be,
looking down at the monks, trying to seduce them into doing all sorts of disgusting things. But they were good and holy and noble, so they didn't get juiced up at all. And in frustration, he stamped his feet and you can still see the marks on the top of the pulpit.
(eerie music) Whereas, if he'd been
a little bit more cool, he could have enjoyed the
spectacular view, couldn't he? (awe-inspiring music) - [Narrator] For the rather more serious-minded William Wordsworth, the magnificent Tintern
and the epic walking tour that would lead him there were
inspirations for his poetry. (awe-inspiring music)
(birds chirping) - But it wasn't any old poem. He wrote it in the meter
of someone walking along. So he was reminding himself of how he felt when he saw it. I've got the first few
lines on this postcard here. It's actually called "Lines Composed a Few
Miles above Tintern Abbey on Revisiting the Banks
of the Wye During a Tour." Not the punchiest of titles, but I think you'll get what I
mean about the rhythm of it. (awe-inspiring music) "Five years have passed. Five summers with the
length of five long winters. And again, I hear these waters, rolling from their mountain springs with a soft inland murmur. Once again do I behold
these steep and lofty cliffs that, on a wild secluded scene, impressed thoughts of more deep seclusion and connect the landscape
with the quiet of the sky." Tum, tum, tum, tum. See what I mean? (awe-inspiring music) (birds chirping) I wonder if I like the
Tintern Abbey poem so much 'cause I'm an actor and the
words in it are so mascular. Those words were consciously recreating the way he walked in
the meter of this poem. - Yes, because he wasn't a person who sat down at his desk and wrote. This poem was written a
few miles above Tintern. So very specifically,
and the dates prove that. So we know that he was
composing as he went along. And Wordsworth would dictate his poetry, like Milton used to do. So he wasn't a desk poet. He was very much an action poet in the sense that he would be, as he was walking, he would
use the rhythm of his walk. - He was a prodigious walker, wasn't he? - Yes, he was. I mean, he was a very athletic walker. He walked 1,000 miles
across Europe one summer on a kind of cheap Grand Tour. And he could walk 20 miles
without thinking about it. - What would Tintern Abbey
have been like in those days? - Well, the ruins would not have been as
quiet as they were now. For example, I mean,
when Wordsworth was here, there were beggars living in
the ruins of the abbey there. - Poor people who he wouldn't have met if he hadn't just got
out there on the road? - That's right. - On that note, I think
I will say goodbye. Now, if I cross that bridge there, am I still in England? - No, I think that's
the gateway into Wales. So I wish you no blisters
and good weather. - It was lovely to see you. - Yeah. Nice to meet you. - [Tony] Cheers. Bye. (reverent music) - [Narrator] As I cross the border and take my first steps into Wales, I'm hungry for a close-up experience of this glorious vision
of Gothic architecture. (reverent music) The quite stunning Tintern
Abbey was founded in 1131 and nestles in a valley surrounded
by misty green mountains. Its dramatic ruins never fail to provide travelers with
an unforgettable spectacle. (reverent music) ♪ The great redeemer ♪ ♪ Will ring through this barren land ♪ ♪ I am weak but Thou art mighty ♪ ♪ Hold me with Thy powerful hand ♪ ♪ Bread of heaven ♪ ♪ Bread of heaven ♪ - Willie Wordsworth wasn't
the only young artist to come here. Turner painted it. And in the early 18th century, a host of artistic young
people flocked here when it was rediscovered as a sort of wild and
magnificent cultural icon. It's not difficult to see
why they were drawn here. We call them the Romantics. And if there's one thing this place is, it's absurdly romantic. It's like a beautiful dreamscape, which they recreated in
words and oils and poetry. Who wouldn't be inspired by Tintern Abbey? ♪ I will ever give to Thee ♪ (choir singing in Latin)
(reverent music) (gentle music) - [Narrator] Offa's Dyke is Britain's longest ancient monument. And even after 1,200 years is still walked by today's travelers, wanting to explore the rich history of this ancient border
between England and Wales. (gentle music) I'm now following the
track back across the river and back into England. This is the Doward in Herefordshire. A limestone hill around
which the River Wye has carved a steep-sided gorge. I'm in search of yet another regal legend. But this time it's King
Arthur, not Offa I seek. (gentle music) (wind whooshing)
(birds chirping) - Sometime around the
end of the 17th century, there was a poor elderly
woman who lived near here and she'd lost her goat. And eventually she came
to a wood cutters camp, which was here. She asked the wood cutters
if they'd seen her goat. And they said, well, we're not quite sure, but there is a cave just here. And we think we might have
heard a bit of bleating from inside it.
(goat bleats) And in those days, it
was really closed up. And she said, well, I can't see anything. Can you hack a bit of the cave down? So they did. (dramatic music) But what they did find
was a gigantic skeleton of a man about 12 foot long. And I dunno whether or not
they managed to find the goat, but they carried the skeleton out and it became the talk of the local area. And I would love to be
able to show it to you, but I can't because they
eventually took it down to Bristol, gave it to
a chap called Mr. Pie, who was just about to go off on his ship to the West Indies. And, stupidly, he took
the skeleton with him and the ship foundered
and the skeleton was lost. So there is no tangible evidence, but everybody around here
believes that skeleton did exist and it was the skeleton of King Arthur. Now, whether or not it
really was, I have no idea. But I'm not on my own today. I've got a friend with me, Sarah. Sarah Peverley. Sarah.
- Hello. - Do you reckon those bones could have been the bones of King Arthur? - It would be amazing to think
that they were, wouldn't it? It would be absolutely wonderful. 'Cause there's so many
connections in this area with the Arthurian myth. - You can almost tangibly
sense Arthur here, can't you? - Yeah, you can. I mean, the Arthurian myth has a pull on our islands generally. It crops up. It gets rewritten lots and lots of times in moments of crises. So whenever there's a big
conflict in the country, the Arthurian myth flourishes again. It's a way of reminding people that unification is important. And, of course, sites like
this are absolutely integral to keeping that myth alive because you've got that kind
of otherworldliness about it. - [Tony] It certainly does
feel very otherworldly 'round here.
- It's incredible, isn't it? - I mean, you can really
imagine Lancelot and Guinevere cantering through this environment. - Absolutely. I mean, this place is just
so evocative, isn't it? It's got that kind of liminal feel to it where you've got the supernatural and the natural worlds colliding. You can imagine a fairy or a
dragon living in such a cave. - I love that word, liminal. You've got the line between
the mystery inside a cave and the reality of the outside. You've got the two
countries, Wales and England, marked by that line of Offa's Dyke. This area is quivering
with liminality, isn't it? - It is. Yes.
- Let's get out of here before we fall to pieces.
- Okay. (awe-inspiring music) - [Narrator] We may not found King Arthur in the cave that bears his name, but there are bones hidden
in its dark interior. (awe-inspiring music) Stone Age people used
these caves as shelter. And flints used by hunters can be dated to more than 10,000 years ago. It's these remnants of
fantastic ancient beasts, such as mammoths, wooly rhino, the jawbone of a wolf, and these extraordinary hyena's teeth that really fire the imagination. (awe-inspiring music) But I want to know if there's
any scientific evidence to back up claims of
King Arthur's existence. I have a feeling that news of some archeological
discoveries in a cave up ahead may give me some answers. (awe-inspiring music)
(birds chirping) (wind whooshing)
(birds chirping) - It's a killer path, this. It's so skinny. It's only a few hundred feet down there, but it must have taken me
the best part of 20 minutes to get up here. Tim, what are you doing, mate? - [Tim] Trying to stand upright. (people laughing) - This is really extreme
archeology, isn't it? - It certainly is. Yes. - [Tony] It does look pretty
spectacular though, doesn't it? - [Tim] It's an amazing cave. - Are there any human
beings associated with it? - Yes there are. Lots. And two in particular. The remains of two male individuals that date from about 600 AD. - 600 AD? Well that's perfect
time for Arthur, isn't it? - It is, isn't it? Yes. - The Romans have just left.
- Yes. - The Saxons have yet to arrive. - Yes. And it's a period for Herefordshire and the Welsh borders about
which we know very little. So we were very, very surprised when the date came back as 580 to 610 AD. - Now what might that be at your feet? - Well, these are some of the finds, Tony. - That's like a comedy bone. - It certainly is. Isn't it? I mean, it tells you how
well preserved he was. - [Tony] That's a femur. - It is. - That's a bit bigger than mine. - Definitely. He was over six foot in his socks. - Wow.
- Yes. - [Tony] What about in the bag? - This is most of his head. So, again, typical of the age, his teeth are very, very worn. - Wow. - You know, when you've got
your teeth for 65 years plus and stone-ground bread, you're gonna get through it. But beautifully preserved. - Well, we may not have King Arthur, but we've got someone from
the time of King Arthur. And that's good enough for me. (bright music) - [Narrator] What an amazing find. And yet more historical
finds and ancient tales, both real and imagined, lie ahead. I'm following the path north, re-crossing the border into Wales and traveling forward several centuries to discover the three castles built in the Monnow Valley as
part of the Norman conquest of South Wales. (man shouting in foreign language) Offa built his 8th century
dyke through the Marches, the border country
between England and Wales. But it was William the Conqueror who resolved to add an
extra impenetrable layer to Offa's mighty dyke to sort out those Welsh once and for all. (awe-inspiring music)
(weapons clattering) - When William the Conqueror
came to Britain from France, he upgraded Offa's defensive line by putting in a load of
castles along the dyke. He knew that their sheer bulk and height would prevent his Norman soldiers from being hammered by the force
of the mighty Welsh bowmen. (awe-inspiring music) (arrow thuds) - [Narrator] These deadly
arrows tore through the air and chain mail to strike fear
into the Norman invaders. I'm intrigued that such a
seemingly primitive weapon could create so much carnage. - I know that the Normans were terrified by the Welsh bow and the Welsh bowmen, but what was a Welsh bow? - Well, if we put aside
the starry-eyed romanticism of there being a Welsh longbow, there isn't really a great difference in the actual bow itself. It's more from the
material that it's made. But more importantly, the use of the bow. How they were actually
deployed by the Welsh, basically rebels,
guerrilla warfare fighting. - So this is a real guerrilla weapon? - Yes. It's not like
King Arthur's Excalibur that unites the whole country. This is like your AK-47 of its day. It's not a precise sniper rifle, but it does its job for
a fight very quickly. - So are you gonna have a pop
at our little square bloke? - I think I can do that for you. Yes. - I'd love to see that. - Okay. (dramatic music) (arrow whooshes) (Tony gasps) (gentle music)
(birds chirping) - [Narrator] The bows, the battlements, and the skirmishes along this border were indeed unrelenting
in those lawless times. Walking Offa's Dyke today
offers a sort of no man's land. A chance to meditate about
ancient warring nations and the nature of borders. And then onto St. Cadoc's Church at Llangattock Lingoed,
which is in Monmouthshire. This beautiful whitewashed
exterior may seem serene, but within lurks yet another reminder of the bloodthirsty conflicts and the return of another
legendary warrior. (gentle music)
(birds chirping) (dramatic music) - So all that white on the
outside seems pretty authentic, but inside, it would've been a completely
different kettle of fish. You see this fresco, which was
discovered fairly recently. All those reds and oranges. I think in here, it would've
been a riot of color. Now that is St. George. You see his helmet and see
the plume coming out of it, which is called a panache, which I think is pretty appropriate. And he is treading, just
about make it out I think, on the red dragon. Now, whether that is simply a symbol of good triumphing over evil, or whether it's the English
stomping all over the Welsh, I have absolutely no idea. You can be the judge of that. I'm not going there. (dramatic music) (dragon roars) (horse whinnies) - [Narrator] This is a
hugely symbolic picture in so many ways. It may be faded and parts of it lost, but it's still extremely
impressive and elaborate. There's no denying how iconic
the dragon is for Wales as an antagonist to England. Offa's Dyke really is a place
potent in myth and legend, where these national identities unfold. (dramatic music) The frontier for the imagination, captured in folklore and verse. And further along Offa's Dyke, literary giants, international artists, and a fantastic forest will
proclaim the enigmatic beauty of this enchanted land. (dramatic music) (awe-inspiring music) Stretching up to an
impressive 18 meters wide and three meters deep, Offa's Dyke is the immense
8th-century frontier that divides England and Wales. As I walk the path that
follows much of its course, legendary and literary
heroes weave stories that collectively define the relationship between these two proud nations. (men shouting)
(weapons clanging) And no place better celebrates
this storytelling tradition than my next stop. I've reached Hay Bluff, a prominent hill at the northern
tip of the Black Mountains, which straddles the border between England and Southeast Wales. (gentle music) - I'm just coming down off Hay Bluff, which is the highest point
on the Offa's Dyke path. It's a bit of a slog, but it's really worth it because you can see
all over Herefordshire. Great views. And now I'm going down there to visit one of my favorite events. Certainly my favorite
festival in the whole world. (awe-inspiring music) - [Narrator] The dyke
has led me to Hay on Wye. (people chattering) The town of books. Half English, half Welsh, and a modern mecca for
lovers of the written word. In a setting that has itself inspired so many wonderful writers, could there be any more perfect
place to celebrate the book? (people chattering) - This has gotta be the
biggest, the most influential, the best organized literary
festival in the whole world. I've been coming here
every year for years, sometimes just as a punter, sometimes to speak or perform. But I always find it quite intoxicating. In every tent, there's a philosopher, a political thinker, a writer. It it's an assertion of ideas,
of discourse, of talking, of freedom and hope, really. (gentle music) - [Narrator] Just as each
step builds a journey, each word comes together
to create a story. And there's one particular travel writer who held the spirit of this
land close to his heart, no matter where he roamed. (gentle music) - I'm on a mission. Hay is all about bookshops. (gentle music) This one's wonderful. It's like a bookshop of your dreams. (gentle music) And I'm looking for travel writers. Here's travel writers along here. A, B, C. Yes, there we go. Oh, of course. It would be right up high, wouldn't it? Bruce Chatwin. One of our greatest travel writers. English, but inspired by the
history and heritage of Wales, - [Narrator] Bruce Chatwin's
award-winning 1982 novel, "On the Black Hill," told the story of twin brothers living in a bleak Welsh farmhouse, straddling the English-Welsh border. And Chatwin's insatiable wanderlust inspired much of his writings. - He once said, "Man's
real house isn't his home, it's the road. And life itself is a journey
to be walked on foot." I couldn't agree more. (awe-inspiring music) - [Narrator] Chatwin died age just 48, having only published five books. But his reputation is
one of our finest writers was already secured. And his literary influence
continues to this day. (awe-inspiring music) - [Tony] You've written about
this place, haven't you? - I have. I wrote "Running for the Hills." And if I could have done, I would've called it "On the Black Hill." But unfortunately... - Someone got there before you. - Bruce Chatwin nicked my
title 20 years before. Yes. And he dug up the dirt,
the stories, the myths, and the legends of a whole
swathe of Herefordshire and this side of Powys. And he takes it all and he puts
it into "On the Black Hill." And it's wonderful in that
it's the story of the place in terms of time, which isn't linear, but cyclical and goes with the seasons. And that's how I
experienced growing up here. I think there is a deep truth there about how time happens in this region. - Must be loads of
stories about this place. - It's thick with stories. So we can start over
there with the Neolithic. And we can move through
the Romans, the Normans, Second World War, and right up to the current. There's the best fields in the valley because there was an almighty battle between the English and
the Welsh down there. And, of course, the blood,
according to my godfather, soaked into the soil and made it... - I'm so conflicted about Offa's Dyke. On one hand, it seems to me
this very old, ancient thing. And on the other hand, it's really quite young compared with an awful lot of
British history, isn't it? - It sounds old, doesn't it? The Offa is old, Old English. Yeah. It sounds like a way back. But then compared to around here, I mean, we measure time
in quite different ways. I mean, so this is Old
Red Devonian Sandstone that we're standing on. I think it's 365 million years old. And all this would've been
a sort of shallow lake at one point in the Pliocene. So no, he's really quite
recent, isn't he, old Offa? - Yeah. Where's the border? - The border's directly behind us. So you can feel the weight
of the mountain behind us. But the border here is partly
a function of geography and partly a function of the mind. - There's always something odd about borderlands, isn't there? - It is. It's like the edge of an island, really. It's a shore between two cultures. - And you know what? If we'd been up here 2,000 years ago, I bet someone like you
(gentle music) would've been telling someone
like me similar stories from the previous 2 or 3,000 years. - It's a lovely thought. Yeah. (bright music) - [Narrator] As well
as "On the Black Hill," borderlands also inspired Bruce Chatwin's seminal
travel book in Patagonia with its tales of Welsh immigrants settled in the vast South American region that straddles Chile and Argentina. And here, on the crest of Hergest Ridge, high up on the path, there's a little piece of
Wales that will be forever well, we shall see. (bright music) - This is typical borders
country, isn't it? Really brisk wind blowing. Got these fantastic views as far as the eye can see. Nothing at all growing but bracken. Well, not quite nothing, actually. 'Cause look at this, you've got this absurd clump
of monkey puzzle trees. Why? Well, apparently about half a century ago, there was a local gardener who realized that the winter
temperature around here is very similar to the winter
temperature in Argentina, which is where the monkey
puzzle trees grow naturally. So he planted them and
they've certainly flourished. So in this funny little oasis, you're suddenly in Patagonia. I'm sure Bruce Chatwin
would really have approved. (bright music) - [Narrator] Leaving this
puzzling patch of forest behind, I'm in search of a section of the dyke regarded by many as the
finest on the route, both for views of the dyke and the surrounding spectacular landscape that leads to Llanfair Hill. (awe-inspiring music) But before I get there, I'm stopped in my tracks
by a beautiful oasis. A riot of color on an
otherwise verdant landscape. And the woman behind this
stunning floral scene connects yet another distant
land with Offa's Dyke. (birds chirping) - This is gorgeous little cottage. Hello? - Oh, hello? - Hello. Hiya. It's fantastic. How long
have you lived here? - 30 years. - Wow. Did you create
this garden yourself? - Yes. Yes, I did. With my family. - It's staggeringly beautiful. - [Tahira] Thank you. It's a bit wild. - Oh, the two things... I can see the dazzle of
color and the big open sky. - Wonderful open skies. And I always say I live here because the earth meets the
sky without interruption. - That's absolutely true. Were you born in England? - No, I was actually born in Uganda and I was a Ugandan
refugee when I was a child. So my family were kicked out of Uganda. And then I grew up in
West London. Southall. - Southall. A Southall girl! - But I couldn't wait to get back to somewhere that was rural because we'd come from rural Africa. Entebbe, by the lake. And so I just longed to go somewhere that reminded me of home and was home. One of many. - Tell me where Llanfair Hill is. How do I get there? - Down this track and down the hill. - That's great. Hope you didn't mind me popping in. - No, it's fantastic. - It's a bit unexpected, that. See ya. - Thank you. Bye. (awe-inspiring music) - [Narrator] From Uganda
via London to Offa's Dyke, Tahira has certainly come a long way to find her perfect home. But the beautiful
familiarity of the landscape belies the ambition of the man who gave the dyke its name. King Offa had a vision, a desire to reach into the Arab world and establish an alliance far
beyond the borders of Britain. (awe-inspiring music) (upbeat music) Offa's Dyke is a spectacular
ancient earthwork that splits the nations
of England and Wales. (upbeat music) Many believe it's a defensive structure, others a show of strength made
by the king behind its name. While the 8th-century King Offa led the English Kingdom of
Mercia through a golden age, this progressive ruler had ambitions to spread his Midas touch
much further afield. (bright music) - Because we've got virtually
nothing written down, precisely who Offa was and what he did remain a bit of a shadow. But we do have two tangible
pieces of evidence. His dyke and a coin. Not the cute little penny, which I showed you at the
beginning of the program, but an extraordinary gold one which is lodged at the British Museum. (bright music) - [Narrator] The gold coin of Offa is a very significant object in the history of ancient Britain. The coin's design, at first glance, resembles the gold dinar. But it is, in fact, not of Arabic origin. It was actually engraved, struck, and issued in England by King Offa. I'm enthralled about how this
incredible centuries-old link with the Arabic world came about. (wind whooshing)
(birds chirping) - You know, of all the archeological finds that I've handled over the years, this is one of the two or three that, when I saw about it, my jaw absolutely dropped. Really. I just think it's amazing. And then what's written
around the outside? - It says (speaking in foreign language), which basically means Muhammad
is the prophet of God. - That is so extraordinary. 8th century.
- Yeah. - And you've got this Mercian king, king of 1/3 of England or whatever. And he's got, round his name
on a coin that he's produced, Muhammad is the prophet of God. - Yeah. - Was he a convert to Islam? - There was a theory that that happened, but I think it's baseless, really. - What do you think? - If you wanted to trade
with a civilization that controlled around, you know, the land
around the Mediterranean, you would need to use a gold coin. So he thought, well, you know,
they used dinars possibly. I can use one too. - So as far as Offa was concerned, looking across the English Channel, the Muslim empire would've
been massive, wouldn't it? - Well, you're talking
from Portugal and Spain, South of France, all the way
across the top of Africa, Middle East as we know it, Central Asia, all the
way across to Pakistan. That's huge. - Isn't it wonderful that you've got this tiny little window into Offa's life. Here we are standing on the dyke and we now know that Offa recognized that the Muslim empire was out there. And, for some reason,
maybe a bit diplomatic, he acknowledged it by writing about it on the outside of one of his coins. - Exactly. I think it's been lost in time. It's a tragedy that we don't know our past and our European history really. Now in the 21st century, you know, we still think
Muslims and Islam is new. But 1,200 years ago, it was there, you know, at the doorstep
really. And inside Europe. - Right here on this dyke,
they were aware of it. - That's right. - Amazing. (awe-inspiring music) One of the annoying things about doing a long walk like this is that the whole procedure
does tend to get a bit insular. You're constantly being confronted by the things close to you. And even the horizon
looks like you're looking at the whole world. So it was really reassuring to come face to face with Offa's coin and know that the man who built this dyke wasn't only thinking about this area, but was, in some way, engaging with Rome, the far side of the Mediterranean, and maybe even Baghdad and beyond. - [Narrator] The idea is tantalizing. Offa's gold coin connects
cultures across continents in an age 1,200 years ago when such an achievement
might be thought improbable. (awe-inspiring music) To think what little we know
of this enigmatic ruler. If only his story had been written down. But it wasn't! And I must satisfy my curiosity with a walk along the great
dyke that honors his name. What lies ahead is a link that honors a much more modern monarch. (awe-inspiring music) Northwest of the town of
Knighton in Central Powys, the county named after
the ancient Welsh kingdom, I approached the vantage
point of Beacon Ring. And I have time at last to reflect on this beautiful fertile land and my journey along Offa's Dyke. (wind whooshing) My intriguing final
destination lies ahead. (wind whooshing) At first glance, this hill is
just a dense, circular wood, flanked by jarring
modern-day transmitter masts. But there's more to it than that. - This would've been an
amazing strategic viewing point in the old days. Look, you've got England laid
out in front of you there. Then you've got the border. And you've got Wales
all the way along there. It's called Beacon Ring, but there's something
rather curious about it. It's an old hill fort, but it wasn't just used in the Iron Age. It's crammed full of history. The Britons fought the Northumbrians here. It was used in the War of the Roses. But look, it's jam packed full of trees. You've got beeches, you've got conifers. What is a forest doing in the middle of an Iron Age hill fort? (reverent music) - [Narrator] And as I'm about to find out from a custodian of this
beautiful Welsh landscape, this peculiar juxtaposition
of the old with the new crowns this elevation
in more ways than one. - Paul, I'm sorry to disturb your work. But this does seem a bit odd to me. I've seen hill forts
with one or two trees in, but you've got a whole
copse in here, haven't you? - Well, it's actually plantation that was put here in 1953 and partly to commemorate the coronation of Her Majesty the Queen. - And what would it have looked like? - Well, it's a combination
of spruce and beech trees. And the monogram EIIR is picked out so you can see that from the air. - Well, you say it can
be seen from the air, but it just looks like a great big mound of trees now, doesn't it? - Well, it does from here
and it is slightly overgrown. They've reached maturity. And our program over the next few years is to try and remove them gradually. As we have done here with the
vegetation on the ramparts and return it to its
natural grassland state. - It's intriguing, isn't it? We've got a bold statement by one monarch in the dyke. And then we've got a bold statement about another one on the hill fort, which you are about to rip out. - We're going to gradually return it to its earlier natural state, I think is how I would put it. - Have you mentioned it to the palace? - I'm afraid not, no. - I should. - Okay. - I mean, I really should. (awe-inspiring music) - On the ground, the effect is invisible. From the air, it's remarkable. Enjoy this unique view while it lasts. (awe-inspiring music) Trees spell out EIIR for Elizabeth Regina. These trees are mere saplings when compared with Offa's Dyke's
amazing 1,200-year history. As I've discovered on my walk, this ancient route
defines the very essence of what it means to be English and Welsh. And will no doubt continue to do so for many generations to come. This impressive frontier may
have been built to draw a line between England's
sword-wielding patron saint and the fiery red dragon of Wales. But over the centuries, it served to strengthen the national pride and cultural identities of
both these border peoples and allowed us, step by step, to truly celebrate this historic boundary. I'm finishing my journey here, where the flow of history
meets the flow of a river. And like the ancient dyke, a slow-moving river meanders
between both countries, blissfully oblivious to any modern border. - I'm at the end of my journey now. This is Welshpool and over here is the largest sheep market in the whole of Europe. It doesn't look much at the
moment, but it's Sunday. So it's closed. Over here is the River Severn. I've walked 90 miles or so. And, ironically, I've ended up by the side of the same river
as the one where I started. This walk has been
about trying to discover something about this
strange border country that we call the Marches. And also to learn a bit
more about King Offa. (thunder rumbles) Have I succeeded? Well, as Winston Churchill once said, "In studying Offa, we're rather like a geologist who, instead of finding a fossil, finds only a hollow
shape in which a creature of unusual strength and
size undoubtedly resided." (awe-inspiring music)
