Tankless Water Heater Install | Existing Home

got the tool buckets packed up work belt pulling out of the driveway and we're going to go install a tankless water heater on my sister and brother-in-law's house they don't live too far from me the problem is they have a 40 gallon water heater it's pretty old and it still works but they just run out of water constantly and i've for years used these tankless water heaters and since i've used those i will never go back they are so amazing never running out of water if you have a decent-sized family and you're running you know doing laundry and dishes and everybody's showering it just you go through 40 gallons of hot water pretty fast so these things are more efficient um you never run a hot water so i recommended he put this in and i told him i'd help him so we're headed over there to do that guys we are here and we're ready to go there's the old water heater there and we're gonna mount the new one right here so i'll mount it off that i'll bring some two by fours down off that floor joist that way i don't have to drill into the con crete block so we're gonna go out through one of these sills here there is a porch out there so i'm gonna go outside to this window measure from here over to see how far i can go over and where we're going to have to get our exhaust and intake pipes out so these older houses you can see there's always all kinds of stuff going everywhere so we're going to try to make this as clean and installed as possible the first thing we got to find is where we can go out this sill plate without that porch being an issue all right so here is the porch in question there is the window so really we want to come out next to this at least this will give me a point of reference over as far as it's basically 12 inches over the edge of that deck so as you can see 12 inches we hit that so i'm going to have to go through right here which means i'm going to bust all this block out right here so we'll bring both uh intake and exhaust through this section all right so my first step here was to figure out where i could uh put the intake and exhaust vents so i located the spot where i could get between two joists they had some old stone or brick in there that i used a hammer drill and a half inch uh bit to break out and then there was like a double sill plate there so still good and solid now that i know where i'm going to vent it it's time to figure out how to mount this thing on this concrete block wall and the richmond water heater that i'm using comes with a mounting bracket so what i've chosen to do here is to run some two by fours down the wall the reason i would prefer to bring two by fours down versus going into that block walls because those are hollow and i don't trust anchors and hollow block walls to be strong enough over time so i can guarantee by putting some two by fours into the floor joists screwing them in that this water heater heater will be mounted securely and won't there will be no risk of it falling as i'm putting this up i had to put a couple shims up at the top just to get that 2x4 to run flat down the wall all right we got our mounting two by fours up we had to shim the joists out there a little bit uh just so they would sit and run flat down along the wall we've got two of them across there now we can mount our mounting bracket to there and then the bottom will screw through this little patch i put in right here and i just toe screwed it right through into the 2x4 or so so once the mounting bracket is leveled and screwed on all you have to do is take your water heater and slide it into the grooves on that bracket and it's as easy as that just venting here and we're going to run that straight up here and across and out right there all right so all i use is this diablo we're using two inch pipe because we're close enough to use two inch this is two and a half inch so two inch pvc will go through that once it's all done so if you look in your manual they will give you all the specifications for the length of pipe you can run in two inch or if you have to go to three inch it'll tell you the 90 degree elbow is worth three feet and a 45 is worth one and a half feet so just make sure you read your manual before installing your piping all right so we got the intake all dry fitted in and i start here at the unit come up this one can be level the exhaust needs to have a slight angled back towards the unit and that's for condensation purposes but this one's just slight i run this one slightly above level two but we got it all dry fitted in there like i've showed you guys before i make my marks on here so when i take this apart and glue it back together and get it all back in the same spot now that we have it dry fitted and all my marks made i take it apart piece by piece and glue it together starting at the water heater and working my way to the outside and then i just repeated the process with the exhaust portion of the pipe and once that's done then we can go out and terminate it outside the way the manual requires i like to try to get these up as close to the ceiling as i can just so it's out of the way we're just missing that window there so we're i mean it does the window doesn't open anyway but we just got to go outside finish the outside then we can seal those up and then put this water line back forward and be able to put the water line back right where it was at so this exhaust which is this one has to have a slope downward back to the unit and that's for condensation purposes so you can see from here it's got a slight slope we got our vent and our exhaust and there's all kinds of rules with this that is not an operable window this is not an operable window so we're plenty far away from any operable windows the directions for this the exhaust and intake have to be 12 to 24 inches apart so i just use i've always just went with what the directions say and i've never had an inspector uh ding me on this i do one thing i do do is put just screws in these right here in case i ever need to take this this off or whatever but this is all done out here so now we're going in hook the uh water and gas up all right so the first thing we're going to do is we're going to install shut off water valves onto the water heater there's a red one for the hot side and then there's a blue one for the cold side and it's as simple as putting some teflon tape onto the connection screwing the fitting on there and that's about it there is a relief valve that goes on the hot side that is supplied with this valve kit that i use so there's the valve kit i think i forgot to record but i got that installed it literally just screws on the hot fitting and the cold fitting and then you got a relief valve off the hot side and these are like drain ports here then it's got each of them have an on off but it's just a kit you can buy with these water heaters that supplies you with a relief valve and these hot and cold valves the next step is cutting your hot and cold from your existing water heater and if you look at the old water heater on top it should say hot and cold and you should be able to identify it so we got that on there this will always be exposed so if these end up leaking you can easily change them out if you want to use like a sweat to a pecs you could these are just nice and easy so we'll just hook our packs up to here bring it down around into our cold now we're going to cut the hot back here and then we'll be able to bring that down and around all right guys so this is the uh water supply i chose to use these watts press connectors because they'll always be exposed i've had really good luck with them so put an on off here this is the hot so it'll come from supply the water heater and then it'll come up and supply all the water to the house right there so i got shutoffs right there so i can actually turn the water back on to the house so there'll be water to all the toilets and sinks and stuff just won't be hot water yet so the main gas line comes through here i'm gonna look for a shut off let's see if i can find one that gas pipe comes there's that here it is right here there's no shut off so i'm gonna have to go out and shut it off with the meter so here's the gas meter right here so it goes into the house right here but you can see this this thing right here is where you turn it off so they can actually shut your gas off and lock you out of it so that should be shut off i'm gonna go start the stove and let the gas run off and then we'll take that pipe off and [Music] get our connections made sorry to shut the thermostat off so the furnace doesn't misfire now we're ready to unhook the gas line and get our stuff all hooked up so as soon as i get that i can put a i got a ball valve so they can turn their gas back on all right so we followed the gas line all the way in here's the main line it comes there's a t here that supplies the furnace so we got to leave this but my plan is to come off this with c sst around and then take black pipe down so we're going to disconnect it here this is what feeds the current water heater so we'll take that union off pull all this off put a new fitting in here and we'll be good to rock and roll all right so we got all this taken off and then we this is one inch pipe we gotta get down to three quarters so we got a one inch two three quarter inch reducer and then we're going to have our fitting which is a male uh threads and then we have the c sst fitting on the other side but i'll get this in i can actually turn the gas on to here check this for leaks and then i'm gonna run flexible around up here over to black pipe and then down so my threaded gas connections i like to use teflon tape and pipe dope that's just how it was taught and i have good luck by doing that all right guys we got this um on off valve fitting it's a csst fitting so we're gonna go ahead and hook our hose up you cut back the sheathing four rings put your lock nut on you have a split washer which you just pull it apart be careful you don't want to break that slide that on the fourth ring squeeze it back together which i think i missed a little i did missed a little bit of the sheeting there she put that split washer on there squeeze it together then you have your solid washer and then you have your o-ring just make sure that's good and clean stretch it over there and then roll it all the way back so now you got in there you just put that in there and then you want to go hand tight as tight as you can get it by hand and then no more than a half a turn with a wrench that's very important and then you're going to have to check it for leaks stick that end in there get it squared or that oh rings up against there so we're hand tight and then i'm just going to tighten it no more than a half a turn and i just use channel locks because it's really not that hard to turn that's about a quarter turn and then it should be good and we'll check it once we turn the gas back on so now we make sure you put clamps to hold your stuff nice and tight i put another 2x4 down so we bring the csst here we transition to black pipe so anywhere down here where people are going to be moving around it's protected we've got our sediment trap now we've got to come off here with a nipple we can hook our gas line up and then we'll hook the two water lines up all right we're going to turn the gas on check for leaks just use the dawn dishwater soap and water i don't see any there yeah lots of connections over here so let's uh see if we got anything here so my camera stopped while i was checking for leaks and even though i'm not excited to fix this fix this i'm excited i have a leak so you can see what it looks like when it bubbles and you can see right there that's what it looks like with this uh soapy water solution when you get a leak i'll spray some on here and you'll be able to see it bubble that's what it looks like when you have a leak so i just gotta shut the gas off take this off and see what the problem is it's gonna be hard for you to see but it kind of looks like my o-ring wasn't in there perfectly square so we're just gonna try to re-redo it i think it was just kind of cockeyed a little bit and it was only sealing on part of it so we'll redo that and then hopefully that'll fix the problem um well i think we got it i think it was just that o-ring was in there a little cock-eyed that's why it's important guys that you check your gas lines for leak when you install new ones um it happens and you just need to make sure you make it right and get it fixed but now that we got that done we're just going to hook our fittings up to connect our pecs to put our pex lines in and then we'll be about finished the last thing we have to do is put a condensate line uh to the unit over to the drain and then we should be able to fire it up all right we're all hooked up we got red packs for hot so as it leaves we know this is the hotline got the blue coming in we got our condensation line on got it secured the pipe secured here and then it loops up over and tees into where it needs to go but this condensate line needs to run to a drain and these put off quite a bit of condensation as they're running and see how much more room this saves that mounts on the wall it's nice and clean and then we're gonna get rid of this we can get rid of this pipe that vents out the chimney we'll just probably fill this with spray foam or stuff it with insulation so cold air doesn't come in but he's going to gain all this space here to build some shelving or something for tool storage or whatever he wants but get this thing going and then we'll get that old one out of there all right so to fire this thing up we turned the power on now we're going to turn all the water valves on and then it's as simple as just powering the unit on go turn your hot water in your bathroom down here just like on the sink just turn it on just turn the hot on and let it run yeah so the way this works is as soon as somebody turns on hot water somewhere it starts flowing water through the unit and kicks it on and starts heating the water it's as simple as that this thing's running guys and it is quiet but once you've got everything hooked up you got the gas lines checked for leaks you got your water lines hooked up as easy as opening all your valves you want to open your valve here you want to open your valve here i can open my valve up here to allow water in and allow water to go back to the hot side of the system and then power it on and turn your hot water on so that's about all there is to it all right well we are officially done we got the old water heater out you can see how that opens up that space they have down here got the new one all done but we took the relief pipe off the old water heater and put it cut it to length and put it on here got our condensate line on ran over the drain check for leaks we're good up to this point we'll check back later so hopefully you guys enjoyed this install video on the tankless on-demand water heater in an existing house i have one more to do in the house i'm building right now that's a new new construction so it'll be pretty much the same but there'll be a little bit uh there'll be a few things that are different on mine so i'll bring you that video when i do that but thanks for watching and we'll catch you on the next video

Channel: Marshall Remodel | MR Post Frame

Views: 302,652

Keywords: Midwest, Iowa, Home, Design, DIY, Construction, Self Build, New Build, New Constrution, Post Frame, Pole Barn, Barndominium, Farmhouse

Id: 4HPyrREX4rY

Length: 21min 50sec (1310 seconds)

Published: Tue Jan 12 2021