SUPER SWELL SATURDAY | Breaking down the BIGGEST Jaws surf in 10 YEARS with Ian Walsh

[Music] winner had been really high paced so far we'd already had a massive day at jaws and i had just finished my third trip to mavericks within three weeks and this jaw swell on the 16th was shaping up to be the biggest swell of the season and possibly the first toe day we've had in years if there's no wind then it kind of shapes up and leans more towards a paddle swell but the fact that this swell was coming with so much size so much energy and it was going to be coupled with a lot of wind it was really leading towards being a toe day a light wind day on maui is still like 10 to 15 mile an hour winds that would be like a favorable condition forecast for jaws so when you see a lot of wind on the forecast you can just add 10 or 12 miles an hour on top of whatever those charts are saying so as a surfer the wind can greatly hinder your approach into the wave it puts you at a later point of entry your positioning becomes a lot different the speed actually ramps up up the face of the wave so if the wind is saying 30 miles an hour you have to imagine that wave is moving close to 30 miles an hour as well against the wind so it's kind of like dragging a ramp into the wind it doubles the speed of the wind and that wind can really put you in some bad scenarios from a takeoff position [Music] what excites me about toe surfing is it's not a matter of if you're going to get a big wave but when like you're going to catch a giant wave when you have the jet skis assistance and a good driver and what's so exciting about that is rather than all the focus that goes into positioning and all the details that have to happen to be able to line up one of those waves paddling a lot of that initial focus shifts over to just performance on the wave you mix that with the fact that you're not on a ten foot four inch board you're on like a 510 511 so the difference in turns is really dramatic you know 10 foot board everything's slowed down and really drawn out and when you're on those little toe boards it's like a formula one car you're just pinning it through turns at really high speeds so we had a delayed start because this swell was aimed at peaking around midday so i didn't really want to be sitting out there on a boat at dark in the morning waiting for this swell to start building around 11 or 12. and as the morning kind of settled and a few waves started to break that looked decent one of my brothers sean went out there to get a few waves before anyone was out and then he got one quick warm-up and then he just got a hog like right out of the gate the biggest first wave of the swell just set in hit the reef perfectly and it really hit the entire lineup like okay here we go this is definitely what we were expecting from the swell and that really set the tone for the day when sean came in i had my boards all ready to go and hopped in and it was almost like riding a bike again like you didn't you don't even need to think about too much you just reacquainted with that board the speed the foot straps and then once we got out the back it felt really natural and comfortable for me to be out there in the lineup on a big day with wind and i felt really good the entire session as the day was unfolding it was really fun to see the way some of the other guys and girls were approaching the lines on the waves and their positioning and everyone has a different style and a different way they read the waves so it was really fun to see those subtle differences everyone's doing on their approach and the way they actually surf the waves and one of the interesting facets to that day was having the toe surfing kind of mix in with the windsurfing and in the unique dynamic of having windsurfers and toaster for sharing this session one set came in that someone had missed a wave earlier in the set towing and then was in a really bad situation in the lineup and i don't know how he ended up there but the next wave of the set was way bigger so he was in a really bad position and the windsurfer was taking off a little bit deep on a bomb and this toe surfer got stuck trying to paddle over the wave with his board in the lip and went over backwards absolute worst case scenario and the windsurfer was at the bottom of the wave and i think had him in his peripheral vision and then felt like he didn't have enough momentum to make the wave and jumped off and it was almost like they met each other at the worst place on one of the biggest waves of the day and just both got absolutely annihilated on a super violent ugly fall [Music] in these sessions there's so much going on there's these really violent dangerous wipeouts happening there's the waves you're riding there's rescues happening there's you know other people moving and motioning for the next set out the back there's helicopters hovering right above you there's just a lot of there's a lot of noise happening i guess and i think that's what's so fun about surfing jaws is when you paddle into a wave or you let go of that toe rope all that noise just disappears [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] is [Music] [Applause] foreign [Music] [Applause] [Music] is [Music] so [Music] you

Channel: Ian Walsh

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Keywords: captain, kitchen captain, ian, walsh, ian walsh, fun, surf, surfing, surfer, big waves, big wave, red bull, world surf league, wsl, jaws, maui, nazare, peahi, red bull surfer, red bull surfing, surfer chef, tsunami, ian walsh surfing, ian walsh surfer, ian walsh jaws, ian walsh mavericks, jaws peahi, jaws surfing, Jaws, tow surfing, kai lenny, kai lenny jaws, kai lenny nazare, january 16 2021, giant jaws, gian jaws, biggest surf ever, jet ski, jet ski surfing, wipeout, surf crash

Id: yebV29ZVvjI

Length: 7min 48sec (468 seconds)

Published: Fri May 28 2021