Let's get to know now and test in practice a pack of Life po4 batteries with 206 amps per cell that is capable of holding a house and working with very high power. I will now show you how I put together this pack, the configuration of the BMS, active balancer, a wattmeter Bidirectional DC and then we'll move on to the practical tests of this Mega battery assembled for offgrid systems for motor homes and for various uses, a battery pack with 6,000 cycles can last up to 15 years using 80% of the maximum capacity of this pack. In other words, it's a lot of energy during We'll get to know each other for a long time and let's go to the practical test, now look guys. This is the Mega battery assembled with 206 Amp Live po4 cells, each cell with 6,000 cycles, that is, 6,000 charge and discharge cycles, which takes approximately 15 years. Well used we assembled this cell here with a Smart bms from JK with internal active balancing of 2 aamps between cells, it is an excellent bms and we placed in parallel a 4S active balancer from eltec which also promises to balance more than 5 aamps between cells when assembled here there is a channel on how to mount the bms and the active balancer, practically the harness, then the terminals will be in parallel to each other, generally I put one terminal on the bms at one junction and on the other, which is the same pole here, one on the active one so as not to overloading the terminal screws I used a 35 mm cable to work with very high current such as 200amp, the ideal would be two 35 cables in parallel so much so that the BMS is already made for this to work with maximum current use the two input connections and output as I 'm going to use the maximum power is the maximum current for a short time so I'm going to leave it like that but for those who are going to use it continuously with a lot of current, the ideal is to use the two wires there to double the current in the cables, I used it here too a very simple DC ammeter wattmeter is a pzm 025. This one, we even have another unit in the box that can take readings and measurements of up to 300 aamps. I used it because it is cheap, very simple, but there are others with more digitized functions. -fi but for this pack here for simple use we put this one here of 300 a which is cheap and very simple o Remembering that all the links to these products are in the video description and it is b directional It marks both the current output and the input and mark the watts H with missing so we can make the correct measurement for example we know here that a pack of this 200 Amp times 12.8 V then we have more or less there between 2600 reaching close to 3,000 what maximum capacity of the bank we can check here Exactly this consumption this autonomy is just current account without having to calculate the watt hours already with the conversion with the loss of the inverter so we do a control here at the beginning on the basis of bank and also to know when we reach 80% discharge and check the voltage on the PC, in other words, another instrument to assist in the use of this type of equipment. So let's move on to the test. Remembering here that I only made a more rustic assembly For us working here, with experience in the channel, I placed the activator button here on the BMS here, tied to the outlet, I also attached the wattmeter here so that we don't end up with the movement of the thinner wires, I attached the harness here, it's a 4 to 8s BMS, it can work and 12.8 v or 24 v I taught how to use this bms 4S or 8s in the 4S system correctly there is a video on the channel and the active balancer and now let's do practical tests with this Mega Pack Remembering that here is the little button that activates the bms after it beeped here, the little light here came on, then yes, current arrives here at the terminal, before activating it, you only have the positive voltage that passes through the bms, it will only release from this terminal B Men to op Men And then it will follow the flow after activating the bms if I deactivate here by holding this little button for 10 seconds when it cuts here the bms turn off the bms there will be no more current here on the negative terminal Remembering that here it will stay working because it is not supplying the voltage and after the bms it is picking up the voltage directly here at the bank terminals, that's why this display doesn't turn off, it wasn't my intention. If I wanted it to turn off, I would feed it by pulling negative here from the bms output. a little more information before going to the test and some questions that may arise What is the ideal inverter to use with this battery bank a 2 kW inverter you can use 12 v 2 kW why Because up to 2 kW you will not exceed the current maximum of this spec which are 200 a at 12.8 V beyond that you draw more current than the BMS support will disconnect So inverters up to 2000 w real if it is 4000 w peak 2000 w real an example of a perfect inverter for here that gives this is the suip Power 2000 w 12 V input and what is the 127 or 220 output for the motor home, imagine a pack like this and a 2 kW inverter that you can use at most without damaging your cell and having excellent autonomy about the charge controllers, this pack here ideally needs to charge a maximum of 100 a, that is, two 40 a controllers in parallel is perfect, a 40 a with a 60 a is perfect and then you will use the maximum number of cards indicated for that controller in the 12 V system you will get a 40 Amp controller and see for 12 V what is the maximum on the board Ah is 600 700 V on the board you will put it will send the 40 Amp on the other 40 you will also put the maximum board for 12 V or for 60 the maximum number of boards for 60 Amp for the 12 system and ready, you will have the complete system receiving the maximum possible current for this bank without shutting down due to excess recharging current and everything is fine Now let's get to the test, let's go guys, time for the test, now with our super battery, everything is already assembled here, as I said, the perfect little system for this battery, a real nominal 2 kW 2000 w inverter with 4000 w peak, is the su Power with 12 V input output either 110 or 220 I'm going to use this 220 which is what I have here I don't have any 12 V with 127 output otherwise I would also use it without any problem some system already assembled bidirectional DC wattmeter here it is recording the voltage of the pack 13.3 v 13.3 v no consumption no current we are also here with our thermographic camera so we will monitor the heating here at the output terminals because we will work with very high current and also check the cell temperature using the thermometer and the thermographic camera for greater precision we also have the application here from the JK bms bms indicating the voltage of cell 1 3.31 of cell 2 3.32 of cell 3 3.32 of 4 3.32 all very close only cell one, which is the output cell here from the negative terminal and which is generally where the current passes through, is the one that suffers a little more and we will monitor it before and after the test, we will start with this induction cooker and let's also put a clamp meter on the scale of 600 aamp direct current let's turn on the lamp and reset its current indication let's go here let's put it here on negative too and we'll monitor all this current there it's zero inverter is off let's turn it on The inverter already sees its consumption current, it will consume a little more because the stove is on standby. negative because the current is coming out of the battery bank if it had been charging the battery it would be positive here without The negative Zinho there is a consumption of 2 w only in the no-load consumption of the inverter and the induction cooker let's check the temperature first on the thermometer here of the terminals 26° 26º also here on the DC wattmeter 26 30 here on this other one, in fact it is the Step Up that is heating up a little but on average 26 grams too so let's go straight to the test here we will turn on the induction cooker generally it turns on at power 5 pulling 90 Amp here on the bidirectional wattmeter 90 also on the pliers, more or less a 10000 W there on the stove indicating everything ok let's look here in the monitoring of the JK bms let's check here in the status let's go 98 in the R app 91 in the ampere The application is lying a bit, the cell voltages dropping to around 3.2 V, let's now increase the power a little bit, let's look here on the thermal camera to see if there is any variation in temperature here at the terminal for now the same 26º no heating There, at the S terminal it's also cold despite almost 100 to let's go up more here the power to 6 Let's go up to 98 to 99 let's go to 7 109 to 107 here 1325 w let's look at the app let's take a look here at JK always indicating more oh it's 116 109 on the pliers lying there one 7 Amp the cell voltage application still at the base of 3.22 23 varying a little let's see if there is any heating here at the terminals 26 27 26 at the thermometer 26 26 let's check here at the wattmeter terminal it's a little confusing because there is Step Up which has a slight heating water already boiling let's increase the power here at 8 we jump to 111 not much let's PR power 9 138 not much the water is already boiling let's look here in the app in the app the same 119 Amp power 10 Not much has changed around 1352 wa voltage on the battery bank high 12.9 V 3.22 per cell let's take a look at terminals 27 now 26 27 no heating thermal camera also at the terminals very calm already here in the water boiling the The inverter is already on, I can't measure it correctly, the cable isn't allowing it to come close, but the water is already boiling, let's now turn off this stove, the inverter, let's look here at the cell, normal temperature, the bms terminals, at the bms terminal, 28º 29, it's just one heating of the bms itself normal warm the cables despite being only 35 MM slightly warm 3 20 is very calm 27 288º in the cables 30º very calm in the terminals no heating is very tight let's now take a resistance of 2000 we try to force this output more Here, returning now with the resistance, checking with the system turned off, the voltage of the batteries then slightly rises by 3.30, practically each inverter turned on and the socket turned off and let's go, let's play current now with this resistance and let's see what the system's behavior is. system indicating 160 amps of consumption 1931 w 163 Amp in the application the terminals here at least the touch without any heating the bms slightly warm the cells quiet the inverter working there 162 a with 2000 w load in the application 180 the battery voltage 3.18 PC voltage 12.7 a very forced discharge with 169 Amp I don't have much way to force it because the inverter is 2 kW nominal, it's already very close to the limit and a 12 V raw system there for 2 kW calmly not even reaching 200 Amp boiling here the water is 1928 w of direct current pulling 2.1 kW direct current converting it into alternating 31 w 168.1 a at 12.7 V almost 2 kW alternating 2 kW of consumption there continuous 100 65 aamp the cables as they are 35 MM gives a slight morn was supposed to be two cable sockets at the input and two at the output, we will notice here that there is a slight heating of the cables 35. You notice here reaching 35º the cables, the terminals of an Elinha there too but you have to remember that the cable heats up it heats up the terminal, it's practically at the temperature of the cable, the hotter cable then takes the heat a little from the terminal because the terminal on the finger is cold, the thermometer gets a slight heating there, but coming from the cable, it's the cable that gets to 35 in some points let's see here in the connection with the bms 35 ol plus the cable that is living the most indicating up to 42º the cable in some points the thermal camera let's check it here at 29 30 the water is already boiling here guys I'm going to have to turn it off here because hot water started pouring here on top of the induction stove and splashing on me, let me change the water. Boiling water fell on me, a slight burn, but that's part of it, I didn't imagine it would boil so quickly, I'll pause here to change the water so Let's check the rest of the test by coming back So guys, I took it out and put some cold water in. In fact, our test is practically finished because we reached the inverter 's maximum of 1900 and a few wats. 2100 the resistance that didn't let it pass 1900 and a few watts and we pulled more than 4 170 amp from the battery bank And as I put some warnings in the video and if we get 200 Amp at 12.8 VA we go over 2.5 kW, so we can use up to 2500 w of nominal inverter and 5000 peak, there are Power at this power of 2,500, which is already enough power to People turn on heavy appliances a lot, you can have a system that has a low consumption but you can turn on a microwave from time to time because the microwave is 1200 w300 at most an induction cooker the 220 cooker reaches 1300 wo and 100 10 V sometimes reaches 1, you can also use an induction stove, you can connect air conditioning. to connect heavy loads for a short period of time you will not use a very heavy load like this for hours and use a lighter load for many, many hours, you noticed there was no heating at the terminals, only the cable that is mentioned below would have to be two two legs here of this 35 cable to work calmly up to 50 I only used one to do a quick test then the cable starts to heat up 35 40º and it starts to heat the terminal coming from the cable not from the outlet here which is very tight, everything is very tight I sanded the terminals before, I left everything straight, that is, there is no loss in the connections, just the cable that needs to work with this very high current. It is undersized and that's it, folks, until the next tests, with this Mega cell, then we will bring more tests and more configurations. for you guys
