- Hello and welcome. My name is Angie Holden, and I'm the blogger behind
The Country Chic Cottage. So this is one of my
most requested videos. Today, we're going to tackle sublimation on cotton and dark colors. There are several products on the market, and we are going to put to
the test several of those. So we're going to test a
couple different brands of glitter HTV, a couple of
different brands of flocked HTV, as well as several different products that all claim to allow you to sublimate on dark and cotton clothing. Now, I'm going to use
my Epson EcoTank ET-4700 that's been converted to sublimation for all of these tests. I'm using Hiippo Sublimation Ink. That is important because
some of these products I have to change up the way I'm
using them just a little bit in order to get them to
work with the Epson printer. So your results could differ if you have a different
sublimation printer or a different sublimation setup. But with my setup, let's take a look at how all of these products work and then which one works best. I'm going to put them to the test by putting these on a black cotton shirt. Seeing how they look, then running it through the laundry a bunch of times and see which one of
these performs the best. So let's get started looking at each of the products in
detail and how they work. So here are the products
we're going to compare. So I have two brands of glitter HTV. I'm going to sublimate on both those. I have two brands of flocked HTV, one here and then one
here called Subli Flock. And with some of these you might need a transfer tape that is heat resistant so you might want to have
some of that on hand. I'm also going to do a control sample just with sublimation. And I'm going to do that
on a polyester shirt that I'm not I'm going to
put through the laundry. So it's going to be our sample to compare how bright everything is and how much everything
fades when I wash it. And then what we're going
to use is a black shirt for all of these products. And this shirt is 90%
cotton, 10% polyester. Now we, I have Siser
EasySubli, Subli-Flex, Flexi-Print, and SubliMate. Those are the products, all the products we're going to compare. So which one works best
on a black cotton shirt and which holds up best when I run it through the
laundry many, many times. So I'm going to start by heading
to my sublimation printer and doing a bunch of prints. And I'm going to talk about each of these and how you use them. And I'm going to press them to a shirt and see how well they work first. And then we'll come back
with periodic updates on how well the shirt is going after I start running it
through the laundry cycle. Let's talk about the control sample first. So this is a 93% polyester shirt and I printed a heart that
says sublimation across it, mirrored the design on sublimation paper. And I will link to a video below detailing what kind of sublimation printer I used, just in case you're curious. And what we're going to do is I'm going to apply this to this shirt. This shirt, I'm not going to wash. We are going to use it as a sample to compare everything else to as far as color, brightness,
that type of thing. And I'm just going to stick
this in the middle of my shirt. I'm going to use some heat resistant tape, tape this into place. And I'm going to press this at 400 degrees for about 40 seconds and I am
going to put protective paper on the top as well as inside the shirt and go ahead and press it. So I did get over to the press and I realized I did
not pre-press my shirt. So I removed this, pre-pressed the shirt, re-lint rolled and added this back. Then pressed it to my
shirt and peeled it away. So you can see it says sublimation. The colors are bright and vibrant and this is what we can use
to compare everything else to. As far as the look you're going to get on the dark cotton shirt. So let's start with our first experiment and let's go ahead and
start with the glitter HTV. First up is the Siser Glitter HTV. So I took a heart and I mirrored it. The heart won't matter for the mirror, but if you're going to
do any other design, be sure to mirror. And I cut it out of HTV
and weeded like usual. And then I made a heart the same size with my sublimation design, printed it with a sublimation printer
on sublimation paper. And it will go over the
top of the glitter heart. So the first thing we need to do is to press the glitter heart. So what I'm going to do with this T-shirt to get all my experiments on it, I'm probably going to
cut it in half actually. But I'm going to do like some experiments, I might be able to get them all on this, I'll do some experiments down this side and then some down the opposite side and hopefully get them
all on the same shirt. So I may put this, the Siser, maybe all the way at the bottom corner. So I'm going to press this. The temperature is 320
for the Siser Glitter and it says like 15 seconds. What I'm going to try
to do is just press it like five seconds, just enough to get this carrier sheet off. And then I'm going to bump
my press up to the 400 to press the sublimation design on top. So let's first press
this glitter into place. I'm going to pre-press the shirt first to any moisture, than add the glitter. So now this one's been pressed. Like I said, I just
pressed it, I don't know, maybe eight, nine seconds. It's stuck enough that I can
get this carrier sheet off. And then I think I might lint
roll just to get anything off of there that shouldn't be on there. And then the hardest
part of using the glitter under sublimation is locating your design. Simple designs work best,
but it's definitely difficult to like get everything in location. You can oversize your sublimation design because it's not going to stick
to this cotton shirt anyway. And even if it did the
black, you wouldn't see it. So you could oversize
your design a little bit. I'm just going to kind of put it on there. And then I would use
some heat resistant tape to hold that into place. And then I'm going to
bump my heat press up and do this at 400 for 60 seconds. And then we'll take a look at the results. Okay, I pressed the Siser Glitter at 400, ended up doing it for 50 seconds. It looks amazing. So here are the colors next to my sublimation design. Looks really, really good
right out of the press. And the adhesive on the HTV was not affected by the higher heat. Like it's still perfect and ready to go. So this one is done. Now I'm going to try the
B-Flex Glitter in the same way. So don't worry, this is a white glitter, the carrier sheet is kind of blue. And what I've done is the same thing I've done with the Siser. So I cut a heart and weeded it. And then I printed on my A-Sub paper, mirrored a heart that says B-Flex Glitter. So this presses at 305 for 10 seconds. So I'm going to head to my
heat press, pre-press my shirt, and then press this heart up above here. And I'm going to do it for like 305 for five seconds or so
just to get it stuck good. Just like we did with the Siser Glitter, and then sub over the top
with the sublimation design. So same procedure, just a different brand to see if there's a difference in brands. Here's my B-Flex Glitter. So I put the glitter on and then I put my sublimation on top. I did the B-Flex glitter itself at like 305 for about eight seconds,
peeled the carrier sheet off. And then I added my
sublimation design on top and pressed the same I did for the Siser. So it was like 400 for 50 seconds. So you can see that the
B-Flex is way muter in color. And it's definitely not even
as glittery as the Siser. So overall I think the Siser
is best for sublimation. Now we are going to throw this shirt in the laundry, of course, so we will see how the Siser fares once
we wash it a few times. But now let's talk about flocked HTV. So let's start with a
product called Subli Flock. So this comes in 8.5 by 11 sheets. The flocked is on one side. So flocked means kind of like a fuzzy HTV and then the carrier sheet, the
glossy side, is on the back. So what this is designed to do is to run through your sublimation printer and to print right onto the Subli Flock. However, I tried to do
that several different ways with my Epson EcoTank printer that I converted for sublimation, and this will not feed
through the printer. So we are going to try it a different way. What I did is I cut a heart
out of the Subli Flock and I applied it to my shirt. So let's talk a little
bit about how I did that. So I cut my heart out of my Subli Flock and this is just a scrap. And then, because it's facing
up, I didn't mirror my design and I peeled it back
from the carrier sheet. So I just peeled it off the carrier sheet and put it on my shirt and pressed. And I pressed for like 320
for about eight seconds and the carrier, and it was
fine, like it was stuck. Of course it wasn't on the carrier sheet. So what I did was I took my carrier sheet and I put it back over the top before I pressed to protect
the Subli Flock while pressing. Now, if you have an intricate design that's where transfer tape
that is for HTV comes in. So I would use this if it
was an intricate design because it was just the
heart, me removing it placing it on the shirt,
placing something over that, pressing it for about eight
seconds at 320 worked fine. The heart is attached to my shirt. So now I'm going to try this. This is not the way this
product is intended to work, but we're going to try adding this is just a sublimation
print on sublimation paper. And we're just going to
add that to the shirt and we'll do the 400 at 50 seconds now that we have the sublimation
and we'll see what happens. Hopefully this will work since it is a polyester
based surface, but who knows? So we're going to add this and then I have another
flocked HTV as well to try. So it is called Print Flock. Again, it's designed, it comes in a roll, but it's designed to be able to cut and feed through your printer. Again, I could not get it to print. So I have it in the same situation. So I have my A-Sub paper with Print Flock, and then I have the Print Flock itself just on this carrier sheet and I'm just going to peel it off. Again, I would use a transfer tape if the design was intricate. And I'm going to put
it on my shirt up here and use the same procedure
as for the Subli Flock. Now the Print Flock, the second
version we're going to use, it said 295 for 12 seconds, this material here, the rolled material. So I'll probably press it like 295 for about six, seven seconds, and then make sure that it comes off fine. But again, I would put
this on my shirt and then you can like have this
carrier sheet to cover it up. You can use protective paper or you can use this transfer tape here, just something to cover it up to protect it while you press. But first I'm going ahead and do my sublimation on the Subli Flock. All right, here are my
flock designs, all pressed. So this is the Subli Flock,
this is the Print Flock. Both of them look amazing, maybe even brighter then
the regular sublimation. Now the problem with all the
methods I've done so far is that you have to place the sublimation onto something that's already cut. And as you can see on this one, I got my design off a little bit. So I did mess this one up. So that is the only problem
with the ones I've done so far. But they look amazing
and we're going to see how well they hold up in the laundry. Now let's move on to some
other options for sublimating on dark colors and cotton. Subli-Flex actually has instructions for matte finish and gloss finish. So we're going to try both. So I have this one cut,
but I did not weed it yet. So I printed this on
my sublimation printer using Cricut Design Space and then used print and
cut to cut around it. And for all of these I could basically use an iron-on setting with more pressure and then I just weed it just like iron on. So all of the ones we've done so far are basically HTV, the
flocked and the glitter, but these are basically the same thing. but you can print on them
with your sublimation printer. So you do it mirrored and then we're going to
place it down onto our shirt. So these are both the same material, but we're going to use two different methods of application to get what they're saying is
two different results. So the first method we're going to try is the matte application method. So we're going to pre-press the shirt to remove any moisture,
about five seconds. And then we're going to place this onto that pre-pressed area. And you're going to put 10 sheets of regular copy paper over the top. And then you're going to press this and it presses at 356, and
the first press is 15 seconds. Now it does require heavy pressure. So you will need a heat press for this. The rest of the ones I've done so far, I've used my heat press, but you could probably
have used an easy press. For some of the ones that
we're going to get into now, we're going to get into some
that require heavy pressure and you will need a heat press. And that includes this one. So after I press for that 15 seconds, that first press with the 10
sheets of copy paper on top at high pressure, I'll come back and I'll explain the
rest of the procedure. All right so this has been
pressed that first time with the 10 sheets of copy paper on top for the 15 seconds, then I
removed it from the press and I let it cool completely. So it's not even warm anymore. And then we want to peel
back this top sheet. And then once that's peeled
back, we are going to cover this with silicone paper, put it in the heat press again and press it again for 30
seconds at the 356 degrees. Again, with the maximum pressure. And now that we're done with
that second press, we peel back and you can see that the colors
on this one are gorgeous. So this is the matte finish, or the instructions for the matte finish. So let's do the Subli-Flex again, but with a glossy finish and kind of see the differences. Again, we're going to pre-press
the shirt for five seconds. Then we're going to add our design. We're going to put the 10 pieces
of copy paper over the top. And we are going to press for
the 15 seconds once again. But this time we are going
to remove it from the press for just a few seconds,
put it back in the press and press again for 30
seconds without this paper on the top, and then
peel back the carrier sheet. So that should give us a glossy finish. Whereas this one should be more matte. So let's see what happens. All right so here's our
Subli-Flex all pressed and you let it cool completely
after that second press. And then just peel back that liner. And this is way glossier
than the matte version. You probably can't see that on camera. Maybe you can, see how glossy it is? And then this one is not near as glossy. This one is super glossy and smooth. So we will see how these
compare in the laundry as well. And then you can kind of compare them to our original sublimation print as far as colors on both
ways to apply the Subli-Flex. So now let's move on to our next product. Next we're going to do SubliMate sheets. And this is actually a fabric
and you print directly on it. I had no problems printing on it. I cut it with the bonded fabric setting on my Explore Air 2, no problem there. I did pull it out so the
bonded fabric setting goes over the design
twice and I pulled it out after one cut because it was cut through. So what you do, you
print it on your sheet. So it has a shiny side and a matte side and you print it on the matte side. And you do not mirror it, so it's going to lay on
our shirt just like that. But you do need to let it cure for a minimum of two
hours before pressing. Mine, all of these have been curing like almost 24 hours just to let you know. And then we're going to lint
roll, pre-press for 10 seconds. And then we're going to
put this on our shirt and press for 380 at 40 seconds. And I'll probably cover it
with like a protective sheet just so I don't get any
ink on my heat press. So let me go press this. And then let's take a
look at how it works. All right, so here's the SubliMate after pressing and it looks pretty good. It got brighter, but you can
kind of see the dark color of the shirt through the fabric. The fabric is super, super thin. Whereas on something
like this Print Flock, I can get a true white. I really couldn't get a true
white in these white areas. But compared with the sublimation it is a little more mute. Now the problem with the SubliMate is the instructions say to wash by hand or delicate cycle only. I'm going to wash it the same way I'm washing all of these
as a fair comparison. And we're going to see if
the edges start fraying and how long this actually lasts when you use like a regular laundry cycle. I will probably hang to dry because most of these say hang to dry, but I will just wash on
my normal laundry cycle. So let's see how long this one lasts in comparison with the rest of those. So now we have a couple more to go through before we can throw the
shirt in the laundry. Next step is Flexi-Print. So this product comes with
both the product itself, as well as a special transfer
tape included in the package. So what I did was did a print then cut on my Cricut on the Flexi-Print. So there's a shiny side and a dull side. I printed with my sublimation printer on the front and did a print then cut, weeded around all the excess. Just use like a iron-on
setting and used more pressure. And then we can apply this to our shirt. So if it was an intricate design you could definitely
use this transfer tape. Since this is just a
heart, I probably will not. So I will head to my heat press
and like preheat this area. And then we'll just peel
back this Flexi-Print. Apply it, we'll put a
protective sheet over the top and it presses at only 284 for 15 seconds. So it is a super quick press. You do need to, after you print you need to wait at least 30 minutes before you cut or apply it to your shirt. And then if you use the application tape you will need to wait for it to completely cool before you remove it. So I'm not going to use the tape. I'm just going to go
ahead pre-press, add this, put a protective sheet on the
top, press for the 15 seconds and then we'll come back
and see how it looks. So this one is done. Super bright and vibrant, I really like the feel of this one. And here it is compared
to my sublimation shirt, if you want to see the difference. But I do really like the way this came out and we are ready to put it to the test. So we have one more product
to test and let's take a look. All right, now let's talk Siser EasySubli. So what comes in the package
is the EasySubli sheets as well as the mask. So you have the EasySubli
HTV and the mask sheets that you can use to transfer your design. So this is designed to work with the Siser inks
and a SawGrass printer. So Siser makes EasySubli inks. I am trying to use this in
my Epson EcoTank printer with Hiipoo sublimation ink. So there are two ways to use this. The easiest way did not work for me. So let me explain why. So the easiest way to use
this is to print directly on the EasySubli HTV with
your sublimation printer and then use your Cricut machine to cut around the design and
weed away all the excess. This did not work for me because my ink will not dry on
the EasySubli sheet. So this has been sitting for over 24 hours and I've also put it under my heat press for several minutes, not pressing down, just letting the surface heat up. And I can still pick
ink up off of the paper. So this is not going to work. However, there is an
alternate way to apply it. And that is, I have
taken the EasySubli HTV. I cut it into a heart and
weeded away all the excess. And then just with my
A-Sub sublimation paper I have printed my design. I'm going to press my
EasySubli HTV onto my shirt. Then sublimate on top of that. The way we've done similarly in the past with like the glitter, the
flocked, that type of thing. So what we're going to do, so I've seen people do it this way but the instructions
that come with the paper are for the easier method. So what we're going to do
is we're going to press this HTV presses at 311
degrees for 15 seconds. So I'm going to press it at 311 for about eight or nine seconds
just to get it stuck down. So this is, the adhesive's on the back, so just like the other
ones I could use the mask if I had an intricate design. The mask is included in this package. I don't, so I'm just
going to peel this off. I'm going to preheat my fabric, lay my heart down and press it. Then go back and press this over the top. And for this one I'm going to do the 311 for like 15 over the top because that is what it
says to do for sublimation. And we'll just see what happens. We may have to press longer
or at a higher temperature. So we'll see what happens on my shirt after I press my design. So I did end up pressing us
at 400 for about 40 seconds because the other did not
work for the sublimation. Now, however, it looks amazing. So this is the EasySubli with the alternate method of application. And I did press it on
the back of the shirt so I didn't mess up any
of my other experiments. And then this is the sublimation
shirt, so very, very close. So let's talk about, so we've seen the color comparison,
let's talk about feel. Each of these products
sits on top of the shirt where sublimation embeds
into your shirt fibers, these are all going to sit on top. Now the EasySubli I must
say is maybe my favorite. Actually, it's really thin. You can barely feel it on the shirt. It just feels really, really nice but they are going to be
similar to an HTV in feeling. All right, so the glitter
just feels like a glitter HTV, the B-Flex glitter, I wasn't
wild about how it came out. The Subli-Flex, while I love
the way it looks, the glossy I don't like the way it feels. Like it kind of feels sticky in a way. I do like the feeling of
the matte a little better, but I don't like the look as well. So I'm not completely
wild about the Subli-Flex, but we'll see how it fares in the laundry. The Flexi-Print, I feel
like it is very close to the Siser Easy-Subli in feeling. So it's probably right
up there with, you know like my top two so far. The SubliMate, you can
definitely feel it on the shirt It's like a piece of stiff
fabric on your shirt. Then the Print Flock and the Subli-Flock, I mean, if you've ever had
a flocked HTV on your shirt that's what it's going to feel like. The Subli-Flock is
probably a little thinner. We'll just see how they fare as far as in the washing machine. But that you do have
that like fuzzy feeling of a flocked HTV on both of them. So, I mean, it's just flocked HTV with sublimation on the top. So now that we've ran through
all of our experiments you see how to sublimate
on dark colors and cotton. I am going to start running this shirt through the laundry in 48 hours. So I'm going to wait 48 hours before washing this for the first time because some of these
products say to wait that long and I don't want to give
each of them a fair chance. So 48 hours from now, I will
start washing this black shirt. The sublimation shirt I'm
going to leave just like it is. I'm not going to wash it. I have another video on
sublimation on polyester and how that fades, if
you're interested in that. It basically doesn't. But I do want to keep this just as it is for comparison with our
shirt as we wash it. So 48 hours from now,
I'll start washing this and I'll come back with periodic updates. All right, let's talk about some results after one time through the laundry. So when pressed the
B-Flex, it was super mute. And I kept thinking it had
like a film over the top. It may have been some of
the sublimation paper, I'm not sure maybe I got too hot. But after one wash, this
a actually got brighter than it was before. It's still not as bright as the Siser or as bright as the sublimation,
but it did get brighter. So I think there was some
kind of film over the top. And it might've been
user error, I don't know. There is actually a reason I do a heart. Because this little tip here tells me if it's stuck down well. And then this dip here,
usually will crack first. Like an HTV will crack
wherever there's a large dip. So the Subli-Flex, both the gloss version and the matte version
are starting to crack. And I'll show you what I mean by that. Just right there in the
center there's a crack. So I'll keep you up-to-date on those, see if that expands at all. But both Subli-Flex, both the gloss and the matte are starting to crack. And the SubliMate, that was the one that did say to wash on delicate setting, but I just washed this inside out, regular setting, did not dry it at all. And after one time it's
already fraying on the edges. You can see a few fabric fray marks. So I don't think this one's
going to last very long. And then for our flocked test. the Subli Flock is doing well. The Print Flock has the smallest tear in that dip in the heart. So I will keep an eye on that. Finally, just to compare,
the EasySubli looks fine. So I'm going to go ahead
and throw this black shirt in a few more times,
just to see what happens. This is after three washes. I just wanted to take a
look at the Subli-Flex, both the gloss and the matte, because it is cracking all over. I hope you can see all those
cracks within the transfer. So that's the gloss version. And then the matte version is here. And again, tons and tons of
cracks within the product. So the Subli-Flex is
definitely out for me. The only other real update is
probably the SubliMate here because it is fraying a little
bit more around the edges but we expected that I would think because it was fraying
after the first wash. The rest of them are the same as they were with my last update, so I'll just keep washing the black shirt. So this is after 10 laundry cycles. And you can see the Subli-Flex
is just tearing apart. Like I would not recommend it at all. Otherwise there's not a ton to update on. The glitters are still holding strong, there's both of those. On the flocks, we will
take a quick look at those. So the Print Flock, I noted
that the cracking had started you know, several cycles ago,
but it is getting deeper. And the Subli Flock, just
like this past cycle, just started a little bit of
a crack right in the center. The SubliMate still
basically looks the same. Like the fraying is getting
a little bit more maybe, but like if you wanted something that would give you a rustic
frayed look with sublimation, this might be the product for you. And then the Flexi-Print
still looking good. And finally the EasySubli
again, it still looks good. So I'll continue to
run some laundry cycles and we'll come back and do some updates. Let's take a look after 20 laundry cycles. So these are the glitters. And both of them seem to be doing okay. The Siser just started
cracking right at the, in the dip and the heart, like
maybe the 19th or 20th cycle. But as you can see the colors
are still holding pretty good. We're not even going to look
at the Subli-Flex anymore. The flocked, the Print
Flock and the Subli Flock are both holding their color pretty well. The Subli Flock has started cracking and oddly, it's kind
of getting black lines around the outside where the white is and in the middle a little bit. So it's kind of looking weird and I'm not completely wild
about how it's looking. So we'll see how that turns out. And then here's that SubliMate and it is kind of fading but it is
holding on really well. And I think this would
be amazing for those like rustic hat patches
to sublimate on those onto a hat and get that
frayed kind of looking edge. But it's adhering really well and looks actually pretty good. So I wanted to compare the Flexi-Print to the EasySubli versus
my sublimation shirt. So the Flexi-Print, the
past couple of cycles is really to fade. I hope you can tell that
the color is changing. In comparison with the EasySubli,
which still looks great. They both, I don't
think, yeah, neither one of them is cracking and
it's holding on really well. but I'm definitely
impressed with the EasySubli and how it's looking so far. So I am going to wash this black shirt a few more times and see what happens. So finally, after 22
laundry cycles, I gave up. I have my sort of clear
winners in this, at this point. So I know which products I like and which I would not purchase. So I thought we would just run through the results of this experiment. So let's start with the
worst and go up to the best. So the Subli-Flex, I did not like at all, I'll just say that. I would not purchase
it, I would not use it to sublimate on dark and
light colored clothing. The SubliMate, which is the fabric. I would only use that if you
wanted more of a rustic look with that frayed edge around the edge. The glitters, I liked
both of them I guess. If you're looking for a
glitter look for your shirt and you want a sublimate over the top I would recommend the Siser Glitter over the B-Flex Glitter. I do think it performed
better and looked better as far as the colors
really popping off of that. So I would say the Siser Glitter if you wanted that glitter look. And then the same thing for the flocked. I really only think if you
want that flocked feel and look that's the only case
where I would use that. So I kind of had problems with
both the brands that I used. The Print Flock held its color well. It did start to crack first. The Subli Flock really held the color, started to crack later, but it has started to get like a weird look to it where there's sort of like black cracks maybe or something like showing
through the flocking. So it started getting kind of weird, and I'm not exactly sure
what's going on with that. So both of those, I would say
they're kind of equivalent. They basically look the same
right now as far as coloring. So I would say whichever
one maybe is on sale. And I will link to all of
these below again, reminder. All right, so my top two
products for sublimating on dark and cotton clothing
are Flexi-Print and EasySubli. So for me, the definite
winner is the Easy Subli. It definitely held its color the best, and there is still zero cracking and it's still adhered
really well to the shirt. The Flexi-Print, no cracking it's adhered really well to the shirt. But I have noticed some fading as of the past few laundry cycles. So I would say that it
fails before the EasySubli. So it's just going to depend on like how long probably
you want your shirt to last, like are you selling these shirts? Are you making a shirt that you're only going to
wear a four or five times? Like what, what's the purpose of the shirt and how much do you want
to spend on that product? But that's sort of my rundown on my least favorite to
my most favorite products. And now you can decide for yourself. Take a look at the products. Which are on sale? Which seemed to be within your budget? And which held up the best on my shirt? Like I said, the only one I really would not recommend is the Subli-Flex. Otherwise I think any of these
would work for your shirt. I wasn't wild about the B-Flex Glitter, the feeling or the look. Otherwise though, I think you could use any of these and be happy
with the shirts you create. And it's just going to
depend on, like I said, the look you're going for and how long you want that shirt to last and what kind of durability
you're looking for. Now, I do wish that, so my top two were the
Flexi-Print and the EasySubli. I wish that the EasySubli,
I would have been able to run through my printer
and it be able to dry. Because that additional step
of needing to put it on top and line it up is just
an opportunity for error. So that's where I think the Flexi-Print would actually shine would
be without that step. So being able to print on it. I feel like that is where the difference is going to lie for me. So it's probably gonna depend for me on the project I'm working on. So how long I need this
shirt to last, yes. And then is it a super complicated design that I'm going to have trouble lining up? Then maybe I just go with the Flexi-Print over the EasySubli and
run the risk of, you know, like it only lasting about
15 laundry cycles or so, something like that. So I hope this video
helps answer the question. I don't think I can give
you just one straight answer but hopefully this whole
experiment helped you figure out which material is best for you when sublimating on dark
and on cotton clothing. So now, if you have any
questions, we covered a lot, drop down the comment section, ask away. If this video helped you, if you loved it, I know you did, give us a thumbs up. If you haven't already, head
on over to our YouTube channel, hit that subscribe button. We have experimental videos
like this all the time and trust me, you don't
want to miss any of those. So thank you all so much for joining me and I'll see you next week, bye-bye.
