STOP Using Inline Leads Like This (Here’s WHY)

so I never use an inline lead straight out  of the packet and in this video I'm going to   explain exactly why and how a very tiny change can  transform the efficiency of an inline lead and put   more carp on the bank okay so what I've done is  I've set up an inline lead and I've done it in   the way that the manufacturers originally intended  this product to be used so I've done this example   with rig tubing we've got a tail rubber pushed  onto the the plastic insert like that and then   the size eight ring swivel pushed into the plastic  insert at the other end now what's wrong with that   you might think so we got a supple braided rig on  here it doesn't really matter what the rig is but   I've just gone for a supple braided rig because  they work best with inline leads anyway and carp's   going to come along he's going to feel the weight  of the lead now the good thing is that he's going   to pick up the the lead from the heaviest end  that's why inline leads work well and is it's   going to pick up it's going to pivot on the tail  rubber like that which is great that's just going   to give us some transference of weight there but  at that point he's going to realize he's got it   wrong and he's going to shake his head it's just  it's just an instinct you know they just feel a   resistance and they think oh I don't like that so  if I try if I simulate the shaking of the head I   give it a good bang around there and you can see  that the lead is not moving the swivel's come out   a little way and and if I continue shaking it is  going to pop out but I was shaking that quite hard   to do that and and multiple times the problem is  is that if you give the carp that amount of time   and that many goes in order to shake the lead he's  probably going to be able to use the weight of   the lead to throw the rig if we do this a bit  differently and kind of throw the lead around   like that you can see that you've got quite a  lot of swing and the lead isn't moving away and   the hook is being tilted that way and that way and  these are all forces which are levering this hook   out so you know if he sits that over there and  doesn't move he's going to try and shake it and   do that you know if he swings his head violently  it's going to swing that way it's going to swing   that way and these are all working against you  he's going to do that rig if if he's got any   experience of encountering rigs on a regular basis  so there's nothing inherently dangerous about this   rig it's a safe way to fish and you know if this  leg gets stuck the carp's pulling that swivel is   going to pop out of there dunk and then we're into  free running system and in the event of a mainline   failure the line will just kind of pull through  and the lead will be safely left on the lake bed   away from the hook which is what we want if you're  fishing a runs water where you're used to catching   5 or 10 carp in a day then a simple rig like this  is going to work great you're going to catch a   load of fish it's going to be safe you're going  to retain the lead so you're not dumping a load of   lead in the water so it's going to save your money  better for the environment so for runs waters it's   a perfectly effective way to fish inline leads  are perfect for creating short and aggressive   rigs they're great over a rock hard bottom and  they work beautifully with solid PVA bag fishing   so I'm sure loads of you are going out there using  an inline lead in this fashion and catching loads   of carp the problem is when you start going up the  scale in terms of level of difficulty bigger carp   fewer carp or carp that are more heavily fished  for you'll find that rigs like this are going to   start letting you down but you're not necessarily  going to know that that is where the problem lies   what's going to happen is you're going to get  a few bleeps and then probably nothing it's   that short kind of flurry of bleeps that that  bothers me that's the kind of indication for   me that carp has gotten away with it so if you  want to use inline leads on a more challenging   water we got to think a bit differently so we've  already seen how a carp can use the weight of   the lead against us to throw the hook there's  another big problem with using a traditional   semi fixed rig like this in open water it's not  so bad as generally speaking the carp are going   to be trying to swim away from you against the  angle of resistance so if I set this rig up as   though from your point of view you're at the rod  and the margin is my chest and this is the lead   if the carp picks this up you can only move  three ways you can move to my right to my left   or back towards you if he moves left the bite  indication is going to be absolutely rubbish   when I used to fish rigs like this I've had  it as bad as you know I've had a single beep   and I've seen the fish that I'm connected to bosh  in the margin 30 m away and all I've heard is one   single beep that's absolutely useless we have  no idea what's going on with a semi-fixed rig   like this the only way to get any bite indication  whatsoever is to basically have an absolutely bow   string tight line so that when the lead is  moved by the carp it automatically kind of   springs back with the elasticity in the line  and we'll get a massive drop back indication   that's something wrong that's okay but you got a  margin like that and you want to present a lead   some somewhere along this margin maybe you don't  want to present it at the bottom of the slope for   whatever reason you present that lead on that  point there on the slope if you have a tight   line running back to your rod like that the carp  are going to be going up and down this margin and   all you're going to get is bibs and bangs as  they bash into the line the carp will do that   a few times basically suss that there's something  wrong and vacate the area and you'll never you'll   never have another beep fishing in that kind of  configuration again so it's really difficult to   catch a carp in that situation so what are the  options that we can do to this in order to make   this situation better well one option would be to  pull the swivel out we leave the plastic insert   in place and then we could squash that swivel  down with a pair of pliers so that it's goes   in there with a very low force that's one option  the other option is we could put a buffer bead or   a ball bead over the end of that swivel that will  prevent the swivel actually being pulled into the   plastic insert in the first place these are two  perfectly valid options so I've just given the   small ring of this swivel a bit of a nip and  I'm going to retie onto the main line and if   we offer that up there you can see that pops in  there with very little resistance it's in out   so there's no force there whatsoever so let's  have a look at what happens when Mr carp comes   along picks up the rig and encounters this lead  so with very little force and very quickly that   swivels pops straight out of the bottom of that  lead and whether he moves left right away back   you're always going to get some form of indication  it might only be slight but you're going to get a   lift on the bobin hopefully a few beeps and then  you'll get an indication there's something going   on so this is how to set up an inline lead  is basically just a pure running lead it's   like the old fashioned kind of drilled bullet  the lead isn't doing much in terms of pricking   the fish it's just kind of a mechanism to get us  out onto the spot and to hold the rig in position   but these these rigs do work I find them more  effective than a traditional semi fixed rig that   the carp can use against you to throw the hook so  it's a small modification but I find this tweak   away from the traditional out of the packet  approach is more effective the other option   is to use something like this which is a little  ball bead and then on top of that I'm going to   add a shock bead then I can take my swivel this  is an undamaged swivel so this is a good option   if you don't want to damage or modify the swivel  in any way so you might think it's over the top   to have to use two products here but this is the  way that this system was designed and this shock   bead has a shallow dish here and if I wasn't to  use the ball bead on top of that you can see the   knot is exposed there and that's going to run  into the inside of the lead and could catch on   the plastic and damage it so by sliding on a 6 mil  ball bead there it just keeps it nice and safe I   probably wouldn't use this inside a solid PVA bag  because that's going to be a bit awkward to do but   the slightest movement from the hook end is going  to give you indication so it's very sensitive so   both of those options are valid and will work but  I think we can do a bit better because neither of   those options is using the weight of the lead to  actually hook the fish we're just relying on the   elasticity of the line and the gradual buildup  in tension we get fantastic bite indication   but are we hooking the fish as well as we possibly  could be so let's have a look at how to take an   inline lead to the next level so what I want  to do is I want to remove this plastic insert   and the easiest way I found to do that is just to  press it against a firm surface like a table and   then pop it out like that so with the plastic  insert removed from the inline lead I'm just   going to take some bare mainline this option will  not work with tubing so it's only suitable if you   want a fish naked line I'm then going to take  an anti-tangle sleeve this is an XL version in   tungsten thread the main line through there then  we'll reconnect our swivel with the rig then we   take the anti-tangle sleeve and with a little bit  of force I pull in the main line and pushing on   the sleeve we force the sleeve over the end of  the swivel like that what I'm then going to do   is I'm going to wet the anti tangle sleeve and you  you're going to find that every single sleeve and   every single lead is a bit different it's going to  be vary from manufacturers to manufacturers going   to vary from component component to be honest so  that's just a kind of a light press fit in there   that goes in there like that now this is quite a  decent setup if you want to fish a a solid PBA bag   because this gives you something to mold the top  of the bag around so what we can see is again the   lead is being picked up from the heavy end we this  long sleeve gives this extra kind of pivot effect   as well and then with some shakes of the head one  shake in this instance that lead is off so that's   perfect so set up like this we're using all the  benefits of the lead the weight is tightening the   hook link and the weight of the lead is imparting  a force on the hook point in order to hook the   fish better but as soon as it shakes its head dunk  it's off couple of shakes that time so if you want   to use an inline lead fish naked like this and a  solid PVA bag with a nice long sleeve then that's   a nice option if you can get the fit right another  way of using a tungsten anti-tangle sleeve like   this is with a lead free leader to use it this  way I'm just going to take some mono it can be   any mono you want just a bit of mainline take some  lead free leader this is the cling on in 40lb I   wouldn't try and use kind of 65lb material that's  going to be too heavy for this size of anti-tangle   sleeve once you threaded through the top loop go  back through the anti-tangle sleeve and hopefully   that pops through through like that that's nice  and then all we've made is basically a threading   tool that's all the mono has been used for we  gently pull the cling on into the sleeve you   might want to actually wet this because that will  just help it slide down and again pull the sleeve   on to the swivel like that I'm just going to pull  this piece of mono out there that we used as the   threading tool take the loop in the cling on  pop the lead on and then we simply draw the anti   tangle sleeve that's got a bit dry let's wet that  draw the anti tangle sleeve into the inline lead   like that so if you wanted to set this up to do  interchangeable loop to loop solid PVA bag fishing   what I do is I tie a large non-slip mono loop  knot and then I pass the tag end back through   the way that it exited and I want to make sure  that I've got a nice big loop so I can put a bag   through it that looks good to me 2 or 3 cm of tag  end left and then we just whip round four or five   times and then when you go back through you need  to go the same way parallel to the two tag ends   of this loop here it's the only way that this  will work and then draw it up wet it and then   just pull that down I'm not messing around with  rig pullers and pulling this tight because this   is just for demonstration purposes but obviously  you tighten that down properly trim the tag end   and then we take our main line we pass the  main line through the loop at the top of the   leader and then we pass the whole rig through that  obviously you'd already have a solid PVA bag made   up here and then we've got our loop on loop off  solid PVA bag set up so the leads imparting the   full weight onto the point of the hook which  is a good thing and then one shake one and a   bit shakes and he's off so that's a great little  system works really well for solid PVA bag work   another option if you want to use a lead free  leader would be to use something like this   which is an inline lead insert and we just use the  needle to pop that on there like that thread the   insert down insert pushes over the swivel take the  inline lead thread through the leader what I found   is that these kind of fitment splines here they're  kind of parallel so they give a nice controlled   fit uh this is a Korda lead works well with a Nash  lead uh it's not going to work with something like   a Fox lead that's for sure because the Fox leads  use a slightly larger diameter but uh if you're on   those two types of leads then this little insert  works just fine um the advantage of something like   this is that you can't overdrive that you can  push that in as hard as you like and it still   pulls out ever so easily so let's have a look at  how this one works again we can see that the lead   is staying in contact with the insert and we're  getting the full impact of the lead that's great   and then even with just a tiny shake dunk it's  off because these fins uh are parallel and it's   impossible to overdrive it it's just a nice little  delicate fit all I'm looking for is the subtlest   bump in order to hook the fish so while the  long anti-tangle sleeve just about worked you'll   notice that once or twice I had to shake one and  a half times sometimes two times in order to get   that lead to drop away with this one very little  shake the subtlest bump and it's off so if you're   looking for a really kind of delicate trick setup  that is going to fo the Wiest to car then this   one is a really good option if you need to use an  inline lead with rig tubing here's what you can do   so I've got some mainline already threaded through  some tubing insert has been removed obviously from   the inline lead pass the main line through the  lead and then what we need is a little tail rubber   there are loads of tail rubbers out on the market  and all the manufacturers are a bit different to   be honest I'm going to use the Korda lead with  a Korda tail rubber because that combination   I came up with a combination years and years ago  it's reliable and it works other combinations will   work you're going to have to kind of test this  out for yourself to see which bits that you've got   are going to make this happen for you so tubing on  lead on tail rubber on then we can add a swivel so   we take the swivel and push the tail rubber onto  it like that it's really important to make sure   that that swivel is pushed fully into the tail  rubber like that you don't need to kind of bury   it so it all locks up so make sure it still spins  but do push that swivel all the way in then take   your rig tubing and push the rig tubing all the  way as far as it will go into the tail rubber like   that you can then offer up the lead to the tail  rubber and you can see it just offers a little   bit of resistance here on this lead might be a  bit of extra coating on there so you're going to   you you're getting a bit of a transition fit there  and it pops on there like that the classic mistake   which I've seen loads of guests make over the  years is pushing that tail rubber far too far into   the lead if you overdrive the tail rubber into  the lead it's just going to behave like a standard   inline lead and that is what we're trying to get  away from so in order to demo this rig again I'm   just going to wet that tow rubber a light press a  really really light press press into the lead and   the way we want it to work is this carp picks up  the lead and if the lead stays in place that is   exactly what we want and then one little shake of  the head dunk is off done like that it's a very   delicate and effective setup so it's really easy  to get this wrong if you don't push the swivel   into the tail rubber far enough and you push the  tail rubber into the lead too far this is what's   going to happen so we're moving the lead that's  all good but then the swivel parts from the tail   rubber and this is not what you want because then  the whole of this assembly is sliding up the main   line and it's actually safer if the lead slides  over the tubing like that and is ejected because   this will happen very quick and efficiently  so with these systems you get the best of both   worlds the lead is doing its job it's pricking  that fish but as soon as the carp knows that the   game is up and it shakes its head the lead drops  away to converts into a running lead system which   means you get the best of bite indication and no  matter whether he moves back towards you left or   right you really should know that something is a  miss and yeah it's time to wind down and hit it

Channel: Matthew Collins

Views: 61,228

Keywords: carp fishing

Id: E6q5mwI-I8c

Length: 21min 26sec (1286 seconds)

Published: Sun May 26 2024