Staircase

mark the face side and edge on a pair of stairs strings using the calculated rise and going required for the staircase make a pitch board and margin translates further information on these marking out tools can be referred to in the textbook place the margin template on the face edge and position the pitch board up against it starting at one end of the string mark a line around the edge of the pitch board to indicate the first step slide the template and pitch board along the length of the string to draw the next step continue to repeat this process along the string until all the steps have been marked out number each step and sketch a line on their front edge to indicate the position of the nosing this will avoid confusion at later stages Square a line between the corner of each step and the face edge on the string you place the two strings together as a pair and transfer the marks on the face edge onto the opposite string these lines can now be squared across the face of the string before repeating the process of marking out the steps place both strings together to ensure that they've been marked out of a pair use a router with a 12 millimeter diameter cutter and template guide to measure the margin between the edge of the cutter and the outside of the guide mark the distance of the margin around the outside edge of one step on the stair string adjust a staircase jig to the position of the margin line following the manufacturer's instructions adjust the router cutter to a depth of 12 millimeters below the surface of the string using the staircase jig begin routing one string to create housings to secure each step once the string has been completed the router jig will have to be adjusted for use on the opposite stream to create a pair the right-hand string will have newel posts connected of top and bottom the position of the Newell's must be indicated on the string to create the joint this is simply achieved by marking the thickness of each newel post centrally over the first and last rise on the face of the string the joints used to connect the newel posts to the string are barefaced mortise and Tenon's these joints are usually formed with a router and a batten secured to the string as a guide the template guide will have to be removed from the router for this process before the distance between the cutting edge and the outside of the router base can be established this dimension will determine the distance the batten will have to be positioned away from the edge of the marking out on the string the bottom of the string should be removed at the floor level before the haunches can be proportioned onto the tenon care should be taken to ensure that the remaining portions of the tenon do not contain any short-grain as this may weaken the joint the tenon on the top of the string should be divided in a similar way only this time equally by three place the string in the vise and remove the unwanted weight material indicated on the joints to create the haunches now that the tenants have been caught on the string the corresponding mortises can be marked out on the newel post to begin the bottom newel post should be aligned with the bottom of the string before the position of the haunch tenon can be transferred onto the face of the timber due to the bare face tenon only having one shoulder the mortise in the newel post must be offset this will ensure that the string fits together centrally in the newel post you the top newer post is marked out using the same method only this time the bottom of the newel post will hang down below the bottom of the string mark the position of the margin along the length of the stream containing the newel posts the point at which this line meets Newell's is the position the overall handrail height has measured both the top and bottom newel posts will need to have a portion of the steps jointed into them to offer support to the stairs these positions are transferred around the newel posts from the top of the housings in the strings with the front of the risers positioned centrally in the newel posts use a marking gauge to indicate the 12 millimeters depth of the housing along the edge of the newel post because the full width of the step is not housed into the newel post a portion of the step will have to be marked out and removed to allow it to fit into the newel post the same methods used to mark out a machine the bottom mule post can be repeated at the top only this time the marking out will also include the back of the last full step the newel posts are secured to the strings with wooden dowels inserted through the joints the bore holes required for the dowel should be positioned centrally in the Tenon's this is normally achieved by marking the shape of the Tenon's onto the side of the newel posts before marking the positions of the hole the bore holes should be located approximately twenty-five millimeters away from the front edge of the newel remove the newel posts from the string use the 12 millimeter drill bit to board several holes through the positions marked on the top and bottom newel posts assemble one joint and insert the drill bit through the hole board into the newel post use the tip of the drill bit to make a mark on the tenon through each hole slide that joint apart and remark the positions indicated on the tenon a few millimeters towards the shoulder for 12 millimeter holes 3 the positions indicated on the tenon reassemble the joint and insert 12 millimeter wooden dowels into the holes to pull the joint together the same process should be repeated at the top of the string to connect the other newel post before assembling the staircase position a section of the trimmer joist against the back of the riser and top nosing to mark the cutout required on the wall string the area indicated is normally removed from the string prior to fitting to allow the staircase to hook over the trimmer joist on the upper floor the top of the wall string is normally cut to the same height as the skirting on the upper floor and approximately half way over the thickness of the joist the height of the bottom step should be marked onto the string to indicate the finished floor level use an offcut of skirting to mark its height on the string whilst aligning the bottom edge with the finished floor level you once all the treads and risers have been glued together in the wedges cut the staircase can be assembled the newel posts are usually installed at the same time as the handrails to prevent difficulties fitting them at a later stage the string capping is simply cut to the same length between the top and bottom shoulders on the string and secured to the top of the string with adhesives and countersunk wood screws the back of each riser is usually screwed to the adjoining tread and glue blocks inserted under each step prevents squeaking to the assembly once dry the top of the wall string can be seen here demonstrating the method used to notch the completed staircase over the landing a similar method of notching is used on the opposite side of the staircase to connect the mule post to the joist the balusters are cut to length and located in the grooves contained in the string capping and the underside of the handrail they're equally spaced between the top and bottom mule posts with packers and held in position with adhesive the distance between the balusters should not permit a 100 millimeter sphere to pass through

Channel: Carpentry & Joinery Wigan & Leigh College

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Id: BW29YddwogA

Length: 14min 36sec (876 seconds)

Published: Tue Jun 27 2017