SPIN INDEXER IMPROVEMENTS: Flip It!

welcome to his Creek workshop my name is Yu Cheol ever since I got my surface grinder I've been wanting to figure out a way to do some sort of a cylindrical grinding and you know there are numerous options but most of them have pretty hefty price tag and given that I'm a hobbyist I thought I'd figure out a way to make something on my own this is your everyday normal spin vector you uses 5c collet and it can be bought for 60 bucks paid $55 for this one with free shipping from amazon and we're gonna use this as the base as you can see I already disassembled the unit I give everything a good clean and checked everything out to make sure there's nothing wrong with it now normally the spindle would go this way with the call at registering on this side right here but this registering fixture right there sticks out quite a bit and I don't want that getting in the way of you know being able to see what I'm grinding so I'm gonna flip this around we'll come at it this way and while we're at it we're also going to install a thrust bearing on this side to make it nice and smooth now it's worth mentioning that it's not my idea I didn't come up with it I saw a gentleman do a fantastic job of this conversion I'll put a link to that article form actually in the description he also installed a worm gear with dividing plate and all that we won't go that far for my use but be sure to check it out now we're gonna go to the mill and first thing we're gonna do is machines and surfaces because there are only two machine surfaces on this the bottom and the front and makes it very difficult to register and true it up when you're trying to use it so we'll clean up the edges in the back the back they just use the Bell Center so we'll give it some love let's talk about the set up for a minute of all the surfaces this front and what I'm calling front is what they intended to be front not my new front this front is the most intricate and well machined surface so we're gonna put that surface against a fixed jaw and you can't see it but I have copper wire that is squeezing in on this end of this base now we're gonna machine this bottom flat but just so I don't take off too much I use a spindle to line up as much as I can but it's by no means flat so we're gonna work in the machine that flat and we'll go around and machine the edges now this is not the most rigid setup so we're gonna take light cuts okay we got the bottom nice and flat and while we have it let's clean up the edges this side is the true edge so we don't need to do that but the sides and back over here we're gonna square it up and doing that now will ensure that everything is perpendicular [Music] all right we're going to clean up the new front end this is the front end we're gonna clean up and because we're gonna be this is gonna be the new bearing surface for the thrust bearing so we want it nice and flat and we're gonna start with an end mill but we'll take facing boring head and true it up after worse just want to remove the bulk of it all right so I centered up the spindle of the mill on this bore using my blade coaxial indicator to get it in there within couple thousandths and then use my interrupted indicator to really dial it in now we're gonna use this boring head this is the facing boring head I've used on previous videos basically I'm gonna hold this ring and it'll gradually feed out automatically and it'll surface face that's the the surface so we'll give it a go well I say that turned out but he good so I want a machine around the outer diameter here this is the thrust washer that I'm going to be using and I want to I think I want to match that or try to match that maybe go down eighth of an inch I'm gonna make a cover for it to cover the thrust bearing and it'd be nice to have outer diameter that is somewhat aligned i ground up a reverse cutting bit for the boring head it'll go in like this and go around it'll still go clockwise all right it's gonna take a while because it's really off-center so it's gonna start contacting the back here this is the thinnest part so I mentioned I'm gonna be putting making a dust cover for the nose of this and to keep the dust out I want to put this all ring on there and have the cover go over that so we do want a machine a little groove for the o-ring I ground up around high speed steel the tip for the boring bar this boring bar has been proven to be pretty versatile because you can grind whatever shape you want so check out video where I made the boring bar I'll put a link somewhere here so let's talk about how this is gonna work I have the bit set a proper elevation where I want the groove to be and we're going to use the facing function of the boring head to feed into it that means we're gonna have to run the spindle backwards that's why I had to grind that tool bit reverse so it's gonna go this way and it'll feed in as it stands the centerline of the base is not aligned with the center of the boar and more I think about it I think I would like it to be centered so when I attach this to additional fixtures I can be sure that I can use the edge to indicate off of rather than trying to indicate off of the main spindle let's round all the time it just takes more time so I know the boar because I zeroed it out on the Dro when I was boring or facing this so I'm going to offset equal known distance to the left and right and I'm gonna machine the edges so that way later I can flip it over and use those new machine surfaces as reference and I'll finish machining the whole thing that'll make it easier now we know it's completely centered between those two hands okay so I put the spindle on here click I wanted to show you what that looks like that's where the o-ring goes here is a thrust bearing washer and here's the thrust bearing and another thrust bearing washer and it'll rest against the side here on the spindle that has been proceeding around from the factory nice and smooth and later we're gonna machine a dust cover that goes over and covers the bearing now we need to figure out how the spindle is gonna be affixed at the back there just isn't enough space right now now I was planning on putting that washer in there on the back as well but as you can see there just wouldn't be enough meat around it so I'm gonna have to machine a ring that fits in that but that just I think I want it a little bit wider so we will we're gonna bore this out a little wider and not this but just to demonstrate a ring that will fit in there and be recessed into that okay we've got the diameter where we want we're gonna take a couple facing cuts make sure this face here is laughs okay well we have here we're gonna drill and tap the base make it easy to mount on to other fixtures that's the center we're gonna go one and a half inches to the front and backs well there would be four holes one two three four one and a half inches this way offset that way side to side we're gonna go one point six two five it'll be all quarter twenty thread okay so since this being can delivered I put couple of mini jacks one two three blocks there's a video where I make those mini jacks I'll put a link in the description as well [Music] now we're going to drill two holes one there and there at the centerline offset one point six two five they're going to be clearance holes for 5/16 inch thread which is eleven thirty second [Music] i ground both faces off-camera on the surface crying here again just to make it parallel that's all that matters all right let's see what we have to do next first let's fit that spacer we just made it sits well maybe ten thousand proud of that and washer hardened thrust bearing washer and this is the indexing ring will go right there now what it did is it closed this gap normally this gap is about this much the next thing to make is some sort of a hub that goes on here where this indexing ring can mount onto but that hub also has to be attached to the spindle firmly [Music] okay so this is how it looks it's a very nice fit we're gonna drill on tap three holes for a set screws 120 degrees apart these are six millimeter set screw holes a six millimeter tap tap that I have is not conducive to power capping so we'll do it the old way [Music] [Music] [Music] we have to drill six holes on this 3r through holes for 1024 screws so that the indexing ring can mount to this I'll have to drill and tap the holes on the indexing ring and there'll be 120 degrees apart the other three holes will be tap holes so that future pulley can mount on to it if I'm gonna do that or not but might as well so we're gonna start with the through holes first all right I don't know what happened but the whole first hole isn't where it's supposed to be it's off by two hundred thousand what I first drilled versus where it needs to be I noticed when I went to the second hole something looked weird well the second hole was right the first hole was off so either the Dro scale skipped which I don't think or I bumped handle or something I don't know regardless we're gonna have to move on and I think I'm gonna swap it on eighty degree around drill a new hole here and go there and there and that just will be a mark of shame let's look at this full circle function again I'm centered physically and my dro says zero zero let's say for the sake of conversation I moved this an inch off center yeah let's go to bolt-hole center position I clearly picked zero zero diameter that's just happened to be what I was using two point six one eight starting angle 90 ending angle three thirty number of holes three okay there it is it's telling me to go to that coordinate there's my number one hole clearly off let's go to number two number two off off by an inch because I moved it even though the dr the bolt hole function selective zero zero so that clearly does not work at least i don't think it's an operator here well that was an unexpected little detour but let's see if we can put this together now i'm not going to tighten these until i have this on the spindle that way those two pieces will be perfectly aligned now we can tighten those screws okay now i have sitting on the nose there we're going to push down on it you know have to add a little oil clean everything and add oil so let's talk about the dust cover for the nose I had originally intended on making it so that he would thread onto this already existing thread but more I thought about it I decided against that idea because in order to use that thread you know you need more than one thread two maybe three and then your the cover is starting to stick out further and further probably around here and I really want to keep this nose portion of it as free of any obstruction and you know the reason for using the thread it's just because you know it was already there so since then I decided that I'm gonna come short of this and simply using a single set screw to clamp on this portion of the spindle will suffice so that means the dust cover has to be just ahead of this edge right here so we'll gain another quarter of an inch free of having an obstruction and I think that's really important because you know that dust cover on your the wheel guard on your surface grinder that's stupid the humidifier I did order another thrust bearing to put one in the back here to smooth it out and it occurred to me that I forgot to machine a recess countersink for these screws and that's important so that when and if I decide to mount a pulley on here which I drilled and tapped those holes for it wouldn't hit those set screws [Music] well I finished churning took it to the mill and quickly drilled in tap for the set screw using the 3m deburring wheel on a bench grinder gave a quick polishing there I do want to put some oil on that ol ring but not right now because I'm gonna disassemble everything and give everything a good cleaning and that's what the nose looks like so just think we went from having this high to this high actually this high because this indexing ring used to be right here so this will easily clear the wheel guard on the surface grinder okay so I receive my other thrust bearing so let's start assembling the the spin deck sir I'm gonna use a ball of sight oil number 10 mobile [Music] so much smoother with another bearing in the back I like it [Music] well it turned out to be an interesting project it sure involved a lot more machining operations than I had anticipated now it's not going to compete with Herrig or suburban fixtures that cost you know two three thousand dollars but for somebody like me a home shop machinist it's gonna be just fun I really appreciate you sticking around watching this please like and comment [Music]

Channel: Woods Creek Workshop

Views: 54,742

Rating: 4.9350252 out of 5

Keywords: spindexer, spin indexer, grinding, surface grinder, machining, milling machine, lathe, spindex, spindexer restoration, machine shop, spindexer modification, home shop, hobby machining, bridgeport, dividing head, indexing, cylindrical grinding, od grinding, harig grind all, grinding fixture, grinding jig, 5c collet

Id: 5HRb1euJ3ng

Length: 27min 1sec (1621 seconds)

Published: Fri May 22 2020