Sony SLVN50 VHS VCR Eating Tapes Part 2 Dealing with the mode switch

this is the second part to the Sony SLV n50 what's the nend mean no parts that's what it means these were machines that when they were made you didn't fix them if they broke you took them you sent them off to Sony and they sent you a new one so they weren't designed to be fixed but we're going to fix this one this one we know it's got a mode switch problem cuz we saw that in part one let's tackle [Music] that for what's going to happen that's what's going to happen right there that's why I was told not to throw a tape in it is it's going to eat the [Applause] tape so um yeah I think we better uh see what's wrong with this one definitely need to cut a problem as you can see and that's why I was forewarned don't uh don't go to tape because it's going to chew it up uh what comes off on this thing next I think I got to pull the base off of this unit I have a sneaking suspicion I don't know whether the VCR will pull off without the circuit board coming out first ah man I hate these designs pull the power cord off first just to get it out of the way so that it's not getting in my way I think I got to pull the back off and then I'm looking at the arrow Mark screws I have a sneaking suspicion that the whole chassis is going to lift out what I'm thinking is that there may be screws that screw the chassis down to the board internally or maybe the maybe the chassis lifts out that's what I'm curious is whether the chassis will lift out without uh without removing the board I guess I can always try just unplugging things and see where pulled out two plugs there instead of one you can just try unplugging um the heads and so forth and uh undo the chassis screws that hold the chassis and then just see if the chassis will lift out without taking out the board and if it doesn't then I'll have to pull the board so we'll do that next I'll UND do this plug here break that piece off cuz it's extra parts that should unplug should should unplug it doesn't appear to want to but I think it is a plug so it should pop off there it does unplug it's just not easy it's stuck come on just got a catch I have to squeeze probably has a catch on the stupid plug you got to be kidding ouch might be easier just to unplug it from this side oh there it goes give me all that trouble and then it unplugs is there a catch on there I don't think so it just was stuck all right that's got the audio head unplugged and the drum is unplugged there and they'll be another drum flug down here that I got to undo I'll undo this one ribbon cable try not to break it this one looks like it might be a problem is there a catch on here I guess it just unplugs another one that's stuck to solid okay next we'll take out the screws that are marked with an arrow on the chassis and see if the chassis lifts okay now we'll see if the chassis lifts out without taking the board out think I got all the screws it does excellent okay now there's our mode switch belt seems to be okay yeah the belt seems to be okay on here so we won't worry too much about that these gears get me nervous these these gears were white at one time they're turning yellow from the grease that's on them and the grease that's on them sometimes makes them weak so these gears have a tendency just to shatter for no reason mode switch we get that clean look at the position of the mode switch it's actually not even pointing at it its home Arrow which is right there probably because the mechanism itself is not quite in the fully unloaded position so we'll have to turn the loading motor slightly to bring it back to its in time position think I got to take this gear a bit counterclockwise a bit to line up the alignment which I believe is right there there's a little timing mark there and I'm pretty sure that timing mark has to line up with that Mark and then there should be y yeah it is because I can see if I look down here I can see there are holes below here so if I put something through there so you guys can see that it is lined up find a piece of of wire or something that I can shove down there just to show you that things are lined up that's the home position but uh you'll have to take my word for it can you see the hole below there I'm sure you can right look down through here you'll see that there's another hole directly below here it's lined up there's another hole directly below there it's lined up and this little timing mark here is pointing at this little tab that is the unloaded position also if we look over here you'll see that there's a little timing mark here on this Cog that's sitting there so that is the unloaded position that the machine needs to be in and when it's in that position the mode switch is sitting pointing right like that that is unloaded position that it needs to be in so now we're going to pop this thing apart if it'll pop apart which it does and look at that it's um the mod switch is um well the mode switch has come apart the mode switch is actually broken look at this I wonder this thing's not working the switch part of it is supposed to be part of the top and it is not it is actually come undone where was it anchored on there before you can see where it was fused and it's actually come apart that is why this one don't work the little plastic pins that hold this in place have broken free you can see the plastic that's on here is just shattered so I'm going to have to try to fuse this back on the way that it was fortunately for me I can see that the way that the tabs were oriented that it sits like that well over top of these tabs so that's the priority I have to do that now we'll try to align this thing I'm not going to be able to glue it or anything cuz there's no glue that's going to stick to this I'm going to have to put the the pins in place like that and heat my soldering iron up and mushroom over a bit of plastic that's the way that this is going to have to be fixed no other way to do it in this case the mode switch didn't get dirty the mode switch actually broke but again mode switches are something you're not going to find today that mode switch has got a lot of grease in it whether somebody's cleaned it in the past or just that that's what they put in at the factory but uh definitely we'll give it a we'll give it a wipe Bo and clean it up a bit but our fault on here is these these U the switch here is broken so I got to get on my bigger magnifier so that I can see what I'm doing here a little better and we're going to try to fuse this thing back together as best we can and hopefully I can get it in exact well I know I can get it in the same place because I can see where it broke from it broke right from there so I have to try to hold this in place try to use my mat here to line it up rubber mat just to give me something to uh set it on that it can sit on here uh maybe like that okay you guys see what I'm doing let's see here let's move this thing over a bit going to set it here in the mat this is just to give it something to to rest on and I'm going to hold it in place with a screwdriver and then I'll use my soering iron to heat the other side of it up and try to push it into place okay so I got the switch held in place as you can see there let's get the soldering iron on there and melt melt it a bit okay that'll hold that side and then we can do the other side over here we'll try to melt this down again try to heat this up a bit just to get some more of the uh the plastic to come through the holes so it has something to hold it with okay we'll let that cool and just see whether that's going to be sufficient to hold this switch in place that hopefully will hold this for a while it doesn't have much torque on it it just it's just constant tension but the plastic over years just gets brittle and that's what happens with this stuff and a lot of it's got to do with the lubricant that was put on at the factory too right when they lubricated this and put it together a lot of that has to do with that it just over time the grease attacks this plastic just going to clean this gear up a bit you can see there's a lot of green on here from before so I don't know that it's really that dirty it was just the switch broke but we'll we'll polish it up anyway was it dirty what do you think that qualify for uh dirt we give it a coating of of neutral that'll just keep the air away from it and hopefully the switch will go back together and it's lining up properly because if it isn't then I'm kind of screwed okay now we'll turn this cam gear back to its alignment position home position which it is right there and uh Mount the chassis back in I have to laugh at how cheap this thing looks compared to that beta cam machine the SP deck holy crap just no comparison in terms of of you know even remotely resembling the same type of build like front face [Music] plate this one b back here this is the AV input at least they use color uh color coordinated plugs some of the companies if you remember back everything was the same it'd have two white plugs both have uh five pins on them where does this one go is that cn1 or cn2 I won't name the companies that did that but there were a few of them and you basically had to Mark the plugs before you took them out otherwise you could be uh creating a big headache for yourself when it came time to put it back [Music] together that didn't sound good but we'll see what happens when I try putting it a tape does it turn on [Applause] doesn't sound good does not sound good at all let's try putting it through the motions without a tape in here there should be a way to release this and get this mechanism to go in there's a couple of catches I got to release Here to Make It Go in that one's one and there's one over here I think and then I got to do it again over here that should drop the mechanism down well I did I just wasn't fast enough come on you piece of crap okay I'll try the tape again and see well it's it's turning it's not eating I not get a picture I got snow um is there anything on the tape first of all there should be something on the tape but I have snow if I put it in pause what happens I have snow looks like maybe a clogged head let's just see let's get a shot of the picture I can see something there let's try the old fingernail on the head Rel Le the paws get in here with the old fingernail am I going to get a picture or not I can see something trying to be [Music] there definitely something on the tape oh you know what maybe the head isn't plugged in all the way that might do it let's just push it all the way down ah I got a picture look at that I fixed it oh cool why I ate the tape the first time I don't know it might have been just the mechanism hadn't timed itself when I put that put that um that brake back in it may not have seated properly and then running the mechanism through it's process fixed that but um yeah it seems to be working it's got a picture Let's uh put the mechanism through its paces and see what else it does here let's see fast forward y that works reverse and that works and play Works how about how about full speed rewind that looks like that works too all right didn't like this I might actually make 50 bucks on this machine I doubt it probably make 20 bucks on it so it's uh working so we'll we'll we'll load a tape and do a test recording on here and uh pretty much be done make sure it records got a lot of plasma interference I bring my hand near the head I love these old plasma TVs these old ones like this just kick out so much uh so much noise I get my hand anywhere near there and all I get is noise of course when we put the shielded top back on that's why these machines had a metal top was um you put the top on it and once the top is in place and the ground screws are in place to ground it that noise goes away you see it wasn't just the plasma sets that caused it Panasonic and I'm not bsing you here Panasonic had a television that was uh it was the I think it was the G 27 in G and 32 in G and uh we ended up with with color stripes down the side people would be bringing their VCRs in cuz oh the vcr's got a problem it's got color stripes down the side of it to check the tape that's how it's supposed to work these machines always struggled with the front loader like even when they were new they did that they're just junk this is my own tape that I can play on here anyway uh talking about the Panasonic G TVs the solution that Panasonic came up with they found that the TVs himself were throwing out a lot of noise from the switching power supply and the flyback Transformer because it was determined that were these sets when they made them where the flyback Transformer was when they were on the purchased Panasonic stand that was designed for the TV that had a shelf below it to put the VCR and wouldn't you know it wouldn't you know it physically they video head was literally directly below where the power supply and flyback was and it was picking up a pulse created by the flyback that was going straight down through the bottom of the cabinet through the sand and into the VCR so Panasonic came up with a solution we would take the stand and we would stick this refle this aluminum tape shielding tape it's sticky back this is is actually heat shield tape for heat shielding um cables when you're putting a a heat shrink wrap on them from the torch it's also used by the heating industry to seal up your Ducks around your around seams on the Ducks and that's what this was from when I had to work on my furnace we had to cut a a hole into the into the ducting to clean out one of the uh condensers or the the guy from the heating company did he cut a hole in to inspect because my condenser or my air conditioner was freezing up get turning into a block of ice when it was really humid in the summer so he thought maybe it was a condenser was dirty and he cut an inspection hole and then he used this stuff to fill the inspection hole it's still covered to the day that was like years ago and it just put two or three strips of this over it this is actually an aluminum tape with a backing and we would get this from Panasonic in rolls like this and we' take the stand and we would just strip it all the on the bottom of the the B bottom of the the the shelf and that was enough to stop the the uh interference the newer Panasonic stands that came out they actually had it applied at the factory to the bottom of the stand but for a while there we were putting that stuff on I think it was probably the same might have been a little bit wider than that that generally wasn't my job that went to uh that went to the delivery guy we' send him out with a roll to the house and he would stick it on in the house and fix that problem every time these ones eject they always make lots of noise uh we're going to try recording on here now just record some color bars I guess if I can select my input 91 there we go color bars from my color bar generator we'll throw some music or something on there and uh just make a recording I do do have a remote for this going throw some batteries in it let's see if I got a couple batteries that are any good here we'll get the old Radio Shack everr gold see if this battery is any good oh it looks to be good that one's fine about this one that one's measuring good as well and how about this dur leak and the dur leak also measures good so I can grab a couple batteries and we'll just throw a couple batteries into this uh remote control and see whether it works and um load up a tape that I can record on we'll try recording at both speeds so start it up what speed am I in here let's see if I press the speed button I should have something on screen here that tells me what I'm doing speed SP EP there we go so we'll try SP first I hit record and it is uh going to record backs up first and there it goes it's now recording I'm going to let this record here for a bit and then we'll switch it down to the EP speed and we'll see how this records and I'm just say I'm recording color bars color bars is kind of the acid test that will determine if everything is working correctly I'm choosing my old dxc 1800 camera that is really only useful as a color bar generator but it was a broadcast camera so it has a broadcast color bar generator on it full field so I'm just using that and I'm just playing some music from the MP3 player so we can check out the recording and recording quality I'll switch it see I don't it'll switch while I'm recording I probably have to stop it yeah I'm going to have to stop this I'll pause it first and then I should be able to switch it to uh EP pause and I'll hit the speed button and switch it down to EP I should switch maybe not I may have to actually I guess I have to stop it so I hit the stop button first and then I can switch it to EP some of these machines you can switch by pausing it but this one you actually have to stop so it's going to do a backspace and start up in the EP speed and I'll just let it record here for a minute and we'll check it once I've finished we'll check it for playback quality and then uh this one here is uh saved and I can put it up for sale this is my machine the person that gave me this machine gave me their tapes that they had to digitize and said here you can take the broken machine so I'll be uh probably trying to sell this one get my 20 bucks for it that's about I I about all these things are worth just remember that tape speed difference compared to that beta cam deck and how fast it went compared to this all right we're going to stop it and I'm going to uh search back I'll just use the remote here we'll search right back to the beginning should switch to the SP speed here in a bit you'll see the lines change there we go that's the SP speed and we'll just see how everything works okay not to worry that wasn't my it was my recording but it wasn't the uh it wasn't the one that I used for testing it was just a recording I made on this tape of the same thing so as you can see the uh the color bars we look at the color bars here of playback are nowhere near as good as live so that's what the color bars look like on the plasma coming right off the camera and and uh well VHS doesn't uh do it any justice that's for sure here's here's tape playback you see how fuzzy that looks that's just that's just VHS tape time base errors and all right it's not just time base errors this is what's called color sync error so because the the chroma is converted down from 3.59 75456 3 for ntsc it's converted down to 629 khz to be recorded which the chroma on ntsc wasn't great to begin with that's the switch down to the EP speed there um chroma on ntsc or was that the switch down that might have been the switch down there yeah that was the switch down uh chroma on chroma on ntsc it's only about 120 lines for red and 120 lines for blue compared to 330 which is the ntsc standard yes super VHS claims 400 uh for broadcast it's 3 about 330 I think or 360 anyway it's less because there's the chroma or there's the sub carrier for the sound but when we're dealing with baseband your super VHS could do 400 lines of resolution in the [Music] luminance the chroma was limited to about 120 lines each of resolution that's on the video signal that's that okay when it's recorded on tape the chroma is converted down to 629 khz on VHS 688 on beta Max and 3/4 in 733 on 8 mm high8 which has a little bit higher resolution VHS the resolution for Chroma is it's something like 30 lines or 35 lines beta is around 38 lines and and U 8 mm height is somewhere around 40 lines of resolution for the chroma the the luminance is where your detail is that'll do on super VHS and high8 will do 400 VHS will do 240 same with betamax 240 to 260 for betamax the beta cam machine the one that uses those metal tapes it does 360 lines of resolution for the the uh luminance but it does 120 for the red and the blue because it it used a separate head to record the chroma separately from the luminance on a separate track so it recorded the full bandwidth of color that's why you get people saying oh the the beta cam format wasn't that great it only recorded 360 lines of resolution well that's because that's all it had to record for broadcast that's all that you could broadcast was 360 or 300 was it 360 or 340 anyway we'll call it 360 but that's all you could broadcast because the the luminance band with had to be chopped off so that it didn't reach into the 4.5 MHz audio subcarrier on the ntsc system it's one of the reasons why the pal system looked better it wasn't had nothing to do with 625 scanning lines versus 525 what it had to deal with was the or to do with was the horizontal frequency response the horizontal bandwidth because on pal the the sound was not at 4.5 MHz it was typically 5.6 or 6.2 on the European standards there's so many different broadcast standards the sound was all in different places I think some of them was was as high as 7 MHz so the the further away the audio was from the video meant more bandwidth for the video detail ntsc was compromised because when the system was first set out when television was first developed in the black and white era 4.5 MHz was chosen as the carrier frequency for the audio because the FCC set a 6 MHz bandwidth limitation per channel so they had to cram the audio within that 6 MHz spectrum because the audio is a FM carrier they centered it at 4.5 MHz but uh they couldn't overlap the next Channel which was 6 MHz away so the band the audio band pass actually goes down it actually goes almost into the chroma and that's why the chroma when they had to develop the the chroma subcarrier frequency they used 3579 545 so that it was out of the audio uh the side bands for the audio but it was also interleaving with the video so that you didn't get beat between the two of them you still did I mean you had stripes or checks and they would bleed and and strobe because of interaction between the chroma and the higher frequency luminance and that's one of the reasons why you know the ntsc suffered the way it did was because of compromises that had to be made in order to make it compatible with the black and white TVs of the day and that was what it was all about was maintaining compatibility with the black and white TVs of the day anyway this machine is done even has ack button on the remote this one's done thanks for watching we'll catch you in the next one bye

Channel: 12voltvids

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Id: BGA0WkKzoDQ

Length: 32min 46sec (1966 seconds)

Published: Wed Jan 31 2024