Sometimes The Repair is Better Than the Original........Drop the Mic...

[Music] hey guys Joel pie here at Advanced Innovations welcome back to the shop as last we've met I've discovered that this particular lug on the mini milling machine base is too short or this is not far down enough or whatever call it what you will the course of action that I am going to take I'm going to Mill this off and I'm going to put a small pocket right there about the same size as this lug then we're going to fit this little beauty in that pocket and we're going to drill through that pocket and bring a screw in from inside the door that gives me orientation that gives me push gives me all the material that I need to drill through from the bottom and tap it right directly online where it needs to be pop that out this morning in my CNC giving myself Corner rounds so that I don't have to square off the pocket or put champers on this or whatever so let's knock this thing off make this fit drill that hole saw this off to length and move on to the next obstacle let's do it [Applause] we're going to get the cutter to zero on the top plane raise the table and then start pecking away at the pocket I'm going to try to remove as much of this material as I can by pecking away at it like that to avoid cutter flicks it's still going to twist a little bit in the direction of rotation but for the most part this is the fastest way to remove material with a smaller diameter cutter without fear of it breaking you would never want to go full depth with a diameter cutter this small this is a 125 cutter which is about 3 mm a little bit bigger than 3 mm going to stay a couple of thousand of away a couple of a thousands away going to stay a couple th away and clean up the scallop marks that are present for an operation like that because it's going to leave an ugly wall few thou away on the Dr we're going to come back and make a width cut one side is a climb the other side is a conventional I'll cover that some other time and to check the width of the plug that's good now I'm going to come back for the bottom and scoop off that back wall and that should do it that wasn't half as bad as I thought it would be okay pocket's done the remnant of what was left over has been parished away the insert fits really well nice deep engagement so it's going to be plenty strong pretty much a seamless transition to the original surface now I just got to sit here for a while and figure out how to turn that screw to cinch this thing down I'll probably do that with tweezers and I'm definitely not going to bore you with that on film The through hole the tapped hole that's going to be in there is for the elevator mechanism on the table and that will be drilled and tapped from behind inverted let me secure it we'll get back to that so far so good the little block is now secure and it's time to establish the height of the block before the radius is added I do not have the correct size radius tool so I'm going to use something that's relatively close and blend it with a file after the fact it is a lot easier to see where the radius is running out if you use a Sharpie marker and watch the diameter of the tool creep towards the edge of the part or edge of the feature same thing with the vertical sides what you want to do is watch the bottom of the cutter and not allow that bottom of the cutter to dig in because that is just one of those moments where you just got to go I don't do it so mark up the vertical surfaces as well and watch for the cut line to creep down towards the bottom of the cutter little bit of oil for the Finish pass for a better finish and you can move on next thing I'm going to do is take the whole assembly out of the machine I'm going to take the block off of the base here debur it completely blast it grain the front and rear faces and reinstall it so it looks like the original casting with just the faces machine be right back if you have the room in your shop and a compressor to drive it a small blast unit is a good thing to have small parts small cabinet okay going the extra mile on this particular part I decided to relieve 100,000 off the top side of it so that I can push a headed brass bushing into this and drill and tap that to accept the 540 left hand screw that's going to pass through here top surface here will act as a bumper engaging the knee itself and allow me room for the head of the bushing to be pressed on there and look relatively presentable I would think all right so let's make the bushing press it on there tap it and see if that's true also have to make the 540 left-and lead screw that goes in there let's do it [Music] e e [Music] quick look at the bushing bushing goes into the receiver everything will be drilled and tapped at assembly let's take it over the Vise and squeeze it in going to put a little bit of oil in there first to make sure that this doesn't shave too much of that off on the way through I do expect to see a little bit of curl on the back but it's almost unavoidable this is very soft for well since the surfaces that I need to bank from to correctly put a hole in this little bus here are going to be extremely hard to physically pick up what I'm going to do is I'm going to do the same thing I've done on several other models if you've watched my channel I'm going to create a surface that I can pick up and then I'm just going to install the piece and trust my setup and make the feature that being said this particular slot right here is as wide as the outer edges of the dovetail and the outer edges of the dovetail were indicated with the knee in place and the pin in the knee say that three times as fast anyway I trammed the pin in the knee set my zero on my digital remove the knee and then I use the exact same Center Line to tram the outside of the dovetail to make sure that the dovetail was a reliable feature to bank from to create this right here all right that being said here we go this is now a zero plane when this is located vertically and this little slot was put in there at the same time this was cut so now that is my vertical indication tramming point I can use an edge finder against this face and just offset in and then indicate this for the center line problem solved once the setup is made this part will slide into here let's get a camera angle that does it justice there you go and I'll lock it down with a single clamp and I will drill blind from the bottom and I will be 100% assured that the feature when the drill passes through the bottom and hits that lug that it's going to go right through where I want it to go through that's the plan let's pop this in the machine do some rapid indicating pop a hole in there that is a very good technique guys if you haven't ever tried that try it I used it on the uh steam engine that I did I did it on the shaper I did it I'm doing it on the milling machine and I'm not sure which model this was for I usually Mark the bar as you can see shape or base the engine and there you go anyway let's set it up do [Music] it for for [Music] for for for [Music] [Laughter] [Music] hey guys little sidebar here before we get into the single pointing of the 540 thread now a 540 thread is an eighth of an inch in diameter that's just about 3 mm I think it's a little more than 3 mm but this is what happens when you're turning something or threading something or parting something let's see this is the material and we're looking straight down the spindle when that tool comes in contact with that material several things is going to take place several things are possibly going to take place the material is going to push off center and if you have a piece of material extended far out from the holding uh points chuck collet whatever that's exactly what's going to happen it's going to push away Flex away deflect it's also going to want to climb over the top of the tool and the tool itself is also going to make contact and dive like a parting tool that's why parting tools snap off when they snap they probably snap up here come apart and just blow up and scare you forever right on kill thank you Mr compressor all right now that being said the one thing or the two things that I want to keep from happening while I'm single pointing This Thread is I want to keep the part from pushing away deflecting and I'm want to keep the part from climbing over the tool there's two ways to do that actually there's two surfaces that need to be constrained you need to constrain the back surface so that it can't push away and you need to constrain the top surface so that it can't lift and roll that is why I made this little guy for my lathe this is a linen phenolic half in Le folic this is some like cartter this the same stuff you use for a knife handle tough stuff really tough stuff bolts onto the front of the carriage and this little cutout right here is for a right-and thread conventional right-hand thread because that stops the material from diving under the tool and pushing away and this is for the leftand thread this keeps it from well keeps it from lifting and pushing away I'm going to attach this to the front of the lake even set it up it's on a slide here not a boom like the camera come on now and since it is my Carta whatever material that is being cut will probably displace some of the material and the material will not displace some of the part which is the less desirable scenario here you go my C to follow rest quick simple stupid and the first way to establish the hole in the block to support the part was I put an endmill in my collet and I just traversed this into the endmill and starish the tooling hole and then I just cut away accordingly so it was really easy let's set up show you what it's all about follow rest is fixed to the front of the carriage and that is my lock line on my tripod here popping like that so forgive me there's here's the slide that's on the top and that is for differ size materials I have a 540 this is my 540 block 540 left hand on one side 540 right hand on the other side and let's say to set this thing up I'm going to get this block and this camera as close as I can so right there lock that in there we go going to move the entire setup really close to the face of the coll and I'm watching my plate in the back here so that it doesn't Collide that'll be my zero stop point and I will put a stop on the on the bed so I don't crash into this back here by the collet back here by the Chuck is going to be your most likely possibility of having concentricity so I'm going to move this in until it touches just run it until it touches gentle pressure on the back cinch up the two screws okay right now that material is constrained from pushing away or coming up let's turn the machine on make a pass watch out the end here it'll probably whip a little but as this gets closer it'll stand still take a look got to tell you guys it's one of the most useful attachments I've ever made and if you have any of this material laying around grab some of it make one of these outstanding thing to have at least at the very least make the contact point out of something that's going to yield to whatever material that you're threading let me set up my threading tool change the camera angle put a 540 leftand thread on that for about an inch and a quarter part it off and check it with the new lug on the base hang in okay before I start this the preferred method of threading in this shop is away from the Chuck or the collet so normally on a right-and thread I will have the tool inverted I will use a left-and tool because this is a right- hand tool I'll use a left- hand insert on this side flip it over it's really close and I will thread away from the truck or the collet this particular leftand thread I'm still ring away from the collet but the tool is positioned conventionally and the Machine is set so that when I engage my half nut the tool traverses out that will result in a leftand thread okay so for anybody confused as to exactly what the heck is he doing that's what I'll be doing okay let's do it 570 RPMs 40 threads per inch threading left the right spindle turning conventionally machine set to engage reverse 5 170 [Music] RPM one easy way to tell if you have deflection or climb on the part first of all a climb and deflection combination is going to give you chatter in your thread if you have simply a deflection watch at the crest of the thread closest to the Collard or the Chuck versus out in the unsupported end you can expect the crest of the thread the top the OD of the thread to have a wider space between not a wider space between the depth is going to look shorter and the crest on top is going to look wider that's because the part is pushing away this will eliminate that let's get back to it the depth of cut on these passes is very superficial it's only about 3,7 in deep and in between passes I am checking visually with an ey Loop to make sure that the setup is correct and that the land on top of the thread Crest is equal all the way down I've prepared a small brass slug drilled and tapped with the same drill and tap that the part on the base was done with to use as a functional gauge I'm looking for a very specific feel here you can also do this with wires or a hard gauge however you see fit to do it functional gauge is always handy to have around okay okay the mini lead screw has been assembled onto the knee and it lines up very well with the new bushing in the bottom I'm very pleased with that see crank this thing down that is very smooth what I'm not quite sure of is why it protrudes out the bottom a quarter of an inch everything is absolutely to print but watch it come out the bottom hole here it not only comes out the bottom hole but it stops way short of where it should I'm thinking that this shaft here called out as 2 in long could have probably been considerably shorter if I were to move it up now I would say this much take get off of this end this would shift down this would be flush you may compromise the the lift let's see that got a little bit of gear noise on the lift if you can hear that or not I'll figure out why that's happening and make that go away let's see when we go flush down here what happens right so figure and you start to assemble this guy and let's just put this on just for yucks you can see that the spindle is well below the table height when it's done I think I may just adjust the length of this screw on my own at a later date I'm not going to do it right now because the model is not complete and I don't know what's going to happen down the road but there you go the Bus Repair worked out very well I'm pleased with the way that ultimately ended up the brass pushing on there looks great it looks like uh any knee I've ever operated you can always see the bronze nut on top of the lug that holds the screw and this is just a gauge pin with the tap handle stuck to it actually it's not engagement just a piece of drill Rod there you go thanks for watching guys that's a wrap that turned out really well I am very pleased with that leave your comments in the comment line Thumbs Up Hit the Subscribe button I do appreciate everything wherever you are in the world I hope you're well and happy and safe this is Joe P Advance Innovations in Austin Texas I'm out [Music] okay guys I took a short deviation from the base just for a second to address the little shelf that is going to go on the side where the door is on the base so this is what you start with flash lines some undercuts some gates and if you put some time into it this is what you'll end up with flash lines are gone I machined the back flat so it rests Square against the casting itself I also took a light past on the inside you can see the witness mark mark from the cutter right there just barely on this side so that the head of the screw has got a parallel surface to bank on and it's not going to be influence then bend the screw or the Shelf either way so no big deal just be careful the size of the screw that you use that you have enough clearance for the head to turn this was just about tangent so I expect this to be a little challenge to put on going to put it on show it to you and we're going to call this base done for this time there's two more holes to go in on the other side but you've seen one you've seen them all

Channel: Joe Pie

Views: 18,926

Keywords: Joe Pie, JoePieczynski, Advanced Innovations, advanced innovations llc, how to, machine shop, shop tricks, shop hacks, shop techniques, shop tutorials, Scale models, mini lathe, steam engines, beginner machinist, hobby machinist, advanced machiniist, professional machinist, turning, milling CNC, manual machining, machining, mini mill, pm research

Id: 5jhieeg4QSI

Length: 27min 29sec (1649 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 27 2024