Slapping Pistons In with SGTMIKI! Chevy 305 V8 SBC Rebuild Part 2 1963 Chevy C10 Restoration Day 26

you want to put atf on it because [Music] hey guys welcome back to the channel my name's chris this is restoration rescue we have a special guest with us today as we're gonna throw the pistons in this block all right guys we're back here with sergeant mickey he was on a previous video when he helped grind off some of the hard edges of our motor but the motor's back and he's gonna be helping us today putting in these pistons so what's the first thing that we need to do so the first thing we're going to do is we're going to get the engine ready so we're going to clean up some of the spots with some surface rust to it and then we're going to start working on piston rings and then from there we'll assemble and then we'll start putting everything together all right so when it has the the rust what's the what's the main thing that we're trying to get rid of uh can we have a little bit of rust or do we need all the rust going whatsoever so a little bit of rust isn't an issue because even when your car sits outside or you don't let it run same thing like your brake rotors you get a little bit of surface rust because there's moisture in the air and we can never get rid of all of it so we're going to use a little bit of atf uh something i've always used when i'm putting the engines together because it kind of helps one it's a detergent two it's a lubricant and it'll help set the piston rings and kind of soaks it and cause them to swell so it makes that first fire a little bit easier it's gonna smoke a little bit first time you fire it but it's gonna fire a little bit easier okay and then with the atf what is uh what what would make it cause the um rings to swell it's just that so it's a hydraulic fluid and the rings have a like a carbon basic coating on the outside of it and when that atf soaks into it it just kind of causes it to swell and expand it's just a little chemical reaction it has to it and it's also like a set of detergent so it's going to help coat and seal these walls and kind of help protect it from the rust and keep everything from binding and sticking through the whole assembly process until we actually get the starter on it and start turning it over to fire the first time all right well let's start knocking some of this stuff out and uh hopefully get some pistons in today all right guys so that's gonna take care of cleaning we're gonna have sergeant mickey here explain why we did it so that we can get ready to put this motor together so basically all we did is we wiped down the inside of each cylinder because we want to make sure that any large debris or even any small debris doesn't stick to the inside of cylinder walls because it'll cause more scratches and mess up that beautiful cross hatch that the machine has put in there so as you saw in the video um you don't want to pour do the little flip trick with getting fluid on because you get contaminants off your rag in your bottle so kind of hold it and pour and then next thing we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and start getting these rings gapped to get them measured for each cylinder all right so what are we really going to do with these rings do they have to go in a specific spot or is which way do we have to do it to make sure that we do this right so i always recommend reading the instructions i know it's not the best thing in the world but they have qr codes you can watch a video on it but each cylinder has a number on it and it tells you on each pack inside of there will tell you where the ring goes and it's kind of important to make sure that you get the ring in there and squared up and measured so cylinder one we're gonna measure the specs for each cylinder cylinder one and as we do it we're gonna take it straight from here when we take it out of the cylinder after we have to do any adjustments we're going to set it on that piston put it back in the box and we're going to move on to do number three five seven then we'll move over to the other side of the bank and we'll do two four six eight all the same way and get all the pistons set and then once we get them all set we can put this stuff away clear up our workspace and we can go on moving on the next step okay so just to make sure each piston we have to do it for each one just to make sure okay all right guys so like you said we're gonna start setting this up and we're gonna knock this out [Music] [Music] [Music] all right guys so that is it with the rings we have gotten them all in each board we've taken each of the set of three as you can see there's two of the oil scraper rings and the regular ring we put it in we used the piston and made sure that when they went in that they were flat and then use this which is a feeler gauge or this calls itself a thickness gauge and we made sure when we put it in that we had the right amount of clearance so after that what we're going to do is we we pulled them all out and put them and they each go with a specific one so right now um sergeant mickey is going to give us a little bit bitter of an explanation of what we did and then we're going to go and put the rings on the pistons all right so we measured each ring we measured the first ring which the first ring and second ring are compression rings and when we set them in we're going to clock them 180 degrees out so one ring gap is going to face this side of the wrist pin the second ring gap is going to face this side of the wrist pin the gap is crucial on these two because as i said this is where your compression comes from now your oil scraper ring consists of three parts you have the ring then you have a little flat scraper here and then you have a top scraper to it creates a little sandwich okay this has a lot of tolerance inside of it and it moves around a lot inside of the cylinder as it runs these are going to spin they're going to rotate they're going to do all sorts of things inside the motor but all this is going to do is it's going to scrape the oil back down into the bottom of the oil pan so tolerance on these have a lot more play than tolerance on your top rings so you can pull up the spec for these there is a spec form but it's not again as i said it's not as crucial for the spec and tolerance on these rings as it is for the top two for your compression now what we're gonna do is my personal preference is i like to assemble the piston bottom the top so we set the oil scraper ring in first the corrugated looking ring then we're going to set the lower scraper ring on the upper scraper ring then we're going to put on the first compression ring and the second compression ring so when we do this is there obviously we're going to put all the rings on but is there a specific way it has to be done to go with each piston or is it does it matter at that point like when we put the put it on the piston so when we do each piston we're gonna put it together and then like so we're we put them back in the box so we would keep them all oriented in the right way but the hard part comes when we go to put them inside we actually got to set the piston is making sure as it's marked you have front of piston in the back of the piston make sure the front of the piston is facing the timing cover because everything's set up front of the motor is the timing cover and then we have some more stuff we'll go over with protecting the crank as we set the pistons and when we get to that point all right so what we're going to do now is we're going to start putting these rings on these pistons and let's knock this out [Music] [Music] all right guys so as you can see in the montage that we just showed you is that we've got everything in all the rings are set as you can see we have the oil scraper ring the oil ring another oil scraper ring and two compression rings on this one i know sergeant mickey pointed it out in that montage there's a dot which tells you the top he told me on this one and thank god he did because i probably would have put it upside down there's like a little rolled edge that's going to be the top part so what we're going to do now is we're going to start shooting these pistons in this block so sergeant maybe what do we need to do to get prepared to do this all right so you can go online they make these specialty tools that it's a silicone sleeve that goes over the studs but honestly it's a bit pricey just to buy one of those so what we did is we took some old fuel line and after we take the cap off you're going to take this old fuel line you're going to slide it over that stud and the reason you want to do that is because this is a hard metal for the studs on the pistons this will mar that crank and destroy that bearing mating surface if it hits it the wrong way so to protect it and save all that money you spent getting a crop polish crank and if you're building a performance motor that crank costs a lot of money so we're going to use those these little sleeves here we're going to put them over top of the studs as we drop the piston in once the piston is in then we're going to put the bearings in you don't want to put the bearings on the piston before you drive it in because as you tap that piston you're gonna shake the bearing out and then you've got a bearing that hit the ground it's all scratched up and take the chance of damaging your bearing before you even put it in the motor so what we're gonna do like i said we're gonna cover these we're gonna drop them in one at a time and then we'll uh work our way through once rinse and repeat all the way down the motor so just to make sure before we do this we're gonna put the assembly lube on these too right just like we did on the crank okay we're gonna put assembly lube on top of the bearings between the bearing mating surface and the crank where it's going to rotate but like you have on the uh the crank journals you have that same little little lip to retain the bearings in here so it's not going to spin in here the bearing spinning surface is going to be between the crank and the uh crank journal in the custom housing and before you set them you want to explain the 180 for them okay yeah so each piston ring is 180 degrees out for the gap on the two compression rings so there's the lower ring is set to the side of the wrist pin and then the upper ring is set to the side here each piston is marked with a front and then you have a back so the front of the motor as we said before the front of the motor has a timing cover and on chevrolet motors all your odd number pistons are going to be on the driver's side bank all the even pistons are going to be on the passenger side bank and the bank is the row of cylinders for the b so let's go ahead and we're gonna knock this out we're gonna get all of them set in and hopefully start wrenching down on them on the bottom and get this thing wrapped up [Music] you want to put atf on it because it cleans it [Music] so [Music] all right guys so what you saw that what we just did is we uh we knocked in our pistons like uh sergeant mickey had said he put the little pieces of rubber on the bottom of that so to get it down nice and straight we used um a ring compressor you put it around and obviously you saw it well without having to ratchet wide open sorry about that and you just take the end of a mallet and you knock it down and then that's where we turn it over to sergeant mickey and he's going to tell us how what he did down at the bottom and so once we got it the piston in the hole and got all the rings past the threshold of the cylinder wall we went underneath and we cleaned off the crank journal and we cleaned off the mating surface for the back of the piston or the back of the connecting rods after we clean that off then we put a little bit of assembly lube on the inside of the bearings set the top of the piston and push it down closer to the crank set the top bearing in then set the piston home putting it completely around that top journal then we clean the connecting rod cap did the same thing on the other side put the bearing in it sandwiched up to the bottom he held the top of the piston i gave the bottom of the cap a little bit of a tap to set it put the nuts on just finger tight and we're only doing it finger tight so we can easily turn this crank over as we go all the way down the end once we get all eight in like i said we're gonna flip it over torque it all down to spec like you said it's all just like what he said before rinse and repeat we're gonna do it for all eight then what we have to do is you spin it over and you torque it down from there we aren't going to show you the rest of this part but torquing we showed you in the last video is pretty easy just same thing for us it's 40 to 45 degrees because the size of the nut if you have a smaller nut obviously smaller make sure you check your specs but that's going to wrap it up for today's video thanks for stopping by guys we appreciate it make sure you follow sergeant mickey on instagram he is starting a brand new youtube channel and it's coming out the next couple weeks so make sure you're subscribed to him there so make sure you subscribe to us make sure you comment like and subscribe and we'll see you next saturday

Channel: Restoration Rescue

Views: 1,147

Keywords: restoration, chevy c10, c10 restoration, 1963 c10, chevy c10 restoration, chevy c10 stepside, 1963 chevy truck restoration, aluminum grille guard, 1963 chevy truck, restoration rescue, truck build, classic cars, 1963 c10 chevy truck, 1963 c10 build, classic cars under 5k, 1963 c10 stepside, classic chevy trucks, c10 restoration guide, c10 restoration project, restoration car, advance auto parts, harbor freight, teng tools, cars, trucks, chevy, 1963 truck, sandblasting, sbc

Id: OB5nU0apv1s

Length: 14min 50sec (890 seconds)

Published: Sat Feb 12 2022