Singer Classic Heavy Duty Extended Beginners Tutorial

okay I'm going to do a quick beginners tutorial on the singer classic machine and this tutorial will cover all the fundamentals of threading the machine making sure the bobbin is started properly and inserted properly and this will work for any of the heavy-duty machines all these machines are basically the same except for the number of stitches they offer and so the classic machine this is the basic one this one must picked up at Walmart and the price I think is one hundred and thirty seven hundred thirty nine dollars somewhere in that price range so for the money it's got a one amp motor which these days is considered somewhat heavy-duty so you can sew jeans with it and it's a good basic machine and it will do just about anything anyone needs to put a garment together these days and that even has an over casting stitch that will demonstrate a bit later and I'll use a foot that I'll encourage you to pick up as an option you can do the overcast stitch off the foot but the foot that they use for that that's a specialty foot really helps if you want to get a good professional stitch on the edge it's kind of it replaces a serger stitch basically as what it does so anyway I'm going to get the camera set up and show you how to thread it how to thread the bobbin first then we'll go through threading the needle and go through the fundamentals when you get your machine you're going to have a blank bobbin in the holder so just press the little button right here over to the right it'll pop up and you pull it out and then we're going to thread using this bobbin so let me move the camera around and we'll get started okay we're at the sewing machine and we're going to thread the bobbin first we're going to use this blue thread in the bobbin and then I've got a industrial spool of pink thread that will you for the top and I'll show you how I set that up once I start threading the needle and that way we can see the difference between the top and the bottom thread is we do our demonstrations on tension so this is a thread just an all-purpose thread that you can get at any fabric store any fabric supply Walmart any of those kind of places Michaels so on and so forth carry this so it's good for clothing it's polyester you generally don't want to use cotton thread and clothing cotton can rot over time so polyester is a good for most clothing if you're selling silks and things like that you want to use a silk thread so let me show you some fundamentals about getting started with this first thing when we put it on the spool this area here that you need to take out to open up the hole for the spool its adhesive and if you're not careful if you push it down in there and it gets caught up on the spool it will mess your tension up so always take scissors or something you can ream it out okay we're going to go through how to one the bobbin so your machine will come with the bobbin down in the bobbin case so just open it up and take it out and you've got two different options on how to put the thread on in your accessory guide you'll have this little post here that will fit here so you can put your thread on there or there default way is to put it on here now what you want to do is you want it to come up the top and the reason for that is there's a little slot here that they use to put the thread in when they ship it to you and if you get it anywhere near that it may catch on that you kind of see how it hooks onto it so you want it coming from the top when you put it on so the label that you read the main ones on the left side so you put that on there like that and so this thread will come off the spool properly you want to put the cover on like that and that allows it to get up high enough for doesn't catch on the slip when it comes off so we're going to come over to this first little little to God here it's number one and just hold the fabric like this and take and put it down in there and you'll have it in there then if you look at your guide here it shows you to bring your thread this way and see I can do this I get my arm in the way too much get some tension on it and bring it all the way around roll up the thread here anyway so you're going to come from here and around and back over here to the spool like this so once you get over there you're going to notice the bobbin has a couple holes in it it's also get a couple mark that are not holes that's I guess where they form the plastic on these so take your thread in between here and feed it up through one of those holes and these are said than done sometimes you try my other hand here there it goes so you can see that I've got it thread through the middle and then through the top and so you'll take it and you'll push it down on the post so you have enough of this thread hanging out where you can hold on to it and what you're going to do is move it over and that engages it winding the bobbin and then when you're finished you'll push it back this way that I'll allow the needle to take over and the bobbin won't spin so we're going to pull it back we're going to press on the foot pedal once you get a few rounds we're going to pull this up you're going to cut it off as close to the bobbin as you can go until you have enough thread and cut it off and then you'll pull back this way that engages the needle again and pull your bobbin off and I'm going to go ahead and show you how to thread the top of the machine and then we'll go down and show you the path down as I move the camera so you can see it but while we're up here let me show you how to do the first few steps of threading the machine okay so now we unwrap it from around there we've got numbers one which will already end from doing our bobbin number two is here and then I'll show you the difference as I go down but I'm going to use the pink thread that I've got for my top thread so I'm going to go ahead and take this off match you see how you put it on that spool set that aside and get my thread over here so we use these external stands you want to put thread path pretty much in the same way that it would come if it were coming off this spool so I've got it right here where it lines up so we go through one is there too is this tension dial here so one through number two and we're going to pull the thread where it goes there's a little bitty Pease they're of metal there it's going to go in between it in this main so let me move the camera down so you can see what's going on down below and we'll take it on down and we'll show you how to insert the bobbin after that okay I wanted to get a close-up of the way it comes through this little hook here so you come around it and then you're going to see it slide in between that little disc there in the hook and then we're going to come on down so you can see number three's here and I'll show you let me move the camera again so I can show you the rest of us okay so we come from 2 3 down here we loop it around 4 which is the little loop there back up you turn our will until this guide is in its highest position oh by the way while you're threading make sure your your presser foot is up what that does is it releases the tension disc that's hidden in here and allows your thread to sink down in there then when you lower your foot the tension disks will clamp down on it so if you're having any kind of a problem ever what you want to do is raise your foot put tension on the thread pull it tight where it will lock down into the tension disk and then put your foot back down and that should correct the issue so we come up and we come around and that's number 5 come around that hook and we have down towards the needle so let me reposition the camera down there so you can see what we do at the needle okay now that we've come down around this hoop and down here you'll see number 6 what you're going to want to do this is the end of the thread in my right hand I'm going to take and hold onto it on this side and there's a little guide right there that you take the thread put it under horizontally like that and then pull it down and you'll see it's hooked on to that now the next one a lot of people miss its number 7 and write it below the needle shank here is a little area that we need to go into with or so again take it horizontal pull it all the way to the back and around and you see it will hook into there that's an important part you miss that often times you'll get a thread nest when you start stitching so that one's important too so be sure and catch it okay let's see how the needle threader works what you want to do is turn the wheel and get your needle up there in its highest position and then bring the threader down you take your thread and you go over the hook no my hands in the way anyway you go over that hook and hook it around and pull this lever and there's a little bitty wire that goes through the eye of the needle there what you want to do is go under it so I can grab a hold of thread and then release it here and it will pull it through to the back and you'll have that little loop you can grab a hold the loop and your needle is threaded so it's as simple as that if you have the wrong size needle and the thread is too big you'll have trouble getting it through that needle I and it will damage the little bitty wire that goes through there on your threader so be sure and learn how to match the thread size to the needle and you won't have any problems so this machine comes with I think it's sus fourteen needle up and see here yeah it's a size fourteen needle which is that medium white and any of the normal polyester threads that you get like this will work in that without any problem at all when you start getting some more specialty heavy-duty threads for denim and things you need bigger needle so okay that takes care of that now let me reposition the camera where we can see down in this casing good and I'm going to show you how to insert the bobbin and get everything going correctly so that you can stitch successfully she had to thread the bobbin now make sure the thread is coming off the top side of the bobbin this way and then you're going to take it and insert it just drop it into the case and what you want to do is bring this thread to the front kind of this way and that there's a little hook right there that it's going to go into its going to slide under it you're going to bring it around to the back like this and set it down hold the thread and then put your case back on like that right over it and I noticed it kind of slipped over to the side I really want to keep it to the back and that keeps it hooked around that little tension bar let me take this off and make sure that you can see that clearly it's right there and the threat goes under it and goes to the back of the machine that's really important because that's the way it forms a proper stitch so let me set things up I'll show you how to draw the bottom thread up from the needle and you're ready to sew next okay now we're ready to pick up the bobbin thread and bring it up to the top for us too so I've got pink thread in the needle I've got blue thread in the bobbin so we can see what's going on so what you're going to do is just simply rotate your hand will and you're going to rotate it towards you this way so this way towards you that's the proper direction put your needle down and hold on to your thread and as it pulls up you're going to see it go around the bobbin there and grab the thread and we're going to pull it up to select that so now we have our bobbin thread pulled up and to get ready to so what we're going to do is pull some of this out make sure we have some thread pulled out you can pull it as long as your presser foot is up it releases the tension and then we're going to take it and put it through the slot and make sure it goes straight through that slot and pull it to the back of the machine and then when you lower your foot you know that her things in there and it's ready to sew at that point one of the things I'll tell you is you can verify your tension on your needle to make sure it's through the disk and threaded properly by let me raise the foot up I'm going to grab my thread for my needle and pull it back to the front and so we go ahead and lower the foot and again that engages the tension we turn the tension all the way down the tension knob all the way down to zero and we pull when the thread comes out very easily as we rotate it to the right all the way to the maximum number of nine you see it bending the needle that tells me that the tension disks are clamping down on that giving us the tension and then I'm going to take it back depending on the fabric I'm sewing in what thread you'll adjust it anywhere in between two three four five all the way up to nine depending on what it is but in that in general you're going to stay in between three and five on general fabric so I'll start it four and just set it on four let me put that to the back and I'll show you what I'm doing on the tension dial and explain the dowels for you at the top of the machine next okay let's take a look at the dolls on top of the machine there are three of them here and actually for free count the presser foot pressure Dow this is our attention for our needle and you toe heard me telling you about from zero and we turn it all the way up to nine I'm being the most tension clamps down on the thread zero being the least where the discs open up so that's what I was saying start on zero pull the thread it's easy and then as you rotate it over to number nine it should get tight and start bending the needle where you can even pull the thread out so we're going to start on a setting a four for our tension this is our needle position and so the middle it's got a little indicator on here showing you the middle that is the left moves then it'll over to the left back to the center and that moves the needle over to the right and I'll show you some things to do to get your needle to move at any position you want by using the width indicator over here when we have it set on a straight stitch we'll go through that in just a minute this is the width of our zigzag or like I just said if you're doing a straight stitch this will control the needle position so what you do to have full control of the needle position is it works from the right to the left so if you have it in the middle you can move it from the middle to the left if you have it to the left this won't move it at all if you have it all the way over to the right as you move this it'll move it all the way from the right all the way to the left so if you want full control move your needle over to the right and then as you move this it up to six it's all the way over to the left if you move it back over to zero there's a needle all the way over to the right so if you want to adjust it anywhere in between just use your width indicator and for example on three it's pretty much back in the middle so set it on the right needle position put it on a straight stitch and you can use this control the needle position anywhere you want and I will show you a wider view and you'll see the needle moving so you can get a good view of what's going on there next but let me go through this this little button here if you turn it to the right it tightens it it's got a plus sign showing it to the right that puts more pressure on the presser foot so if you have n material light material you want to put more pressure on it so that it will feed better if you get some of the heavier material depending on how heavy it is you can back off of it a bit or you may need to tighten it so it just depends on the style of fabric you're using and a lot of different variables this is one thing so even some of the more expensive machines don't have that's one of the reasons I like this machine is you can adjust the pressure on the presser foot and you'll learn when you're sewing for example if I'm sewing denim jeans with a very thick side seam on the hem line normally you would tighten this up but what I do is I loosen it because it feeds fine but when it hits the hump of that side seam it allows the foot to ride up over it easier so it makes sense it's not pushing down so hard and it can ride up over it so sometimes the logic is reversed again it depends on what you're using but the good thing is you have it here to learn and understand and you'll have it as an option so that covers everything on top let me back up and show you how using this woman the needle and we'll go through the controls on the front of the machine okay I'm focused on the needle and I'm going to show you how it moves I'll show you in a minute what a straight stitch setting is on the doll but I've got it set on the street statue it's just the default what it's going to be set on when I show you the doll and what I'm going to do is use that width indicator on the top I've got my needle position to the right and it's on number three right now in the width so as I move it up you're going to see the needle move to the left so it's on six and now I'm going to go all the way back down there's three all the way down to zero and you see the needle is to the right so watch it as it moves so again setting the needle position on the right you have full control with a straight stitch selected by using the width dial to your needle position that'll become more important as you start using some of the specialty feet and you're trying to align a seam up and to do him or something you may want to use this to line it up lower your needle and get it at just the right position and that's what that allows you to do so again straight stitch needle position to the right and then turn your width indicator and it will let you put your position anywhere in the positions from the left to the right alright let's go over the stitch selector and the link selector and the reverse handle next okay on the front here starting from on the left this is a reverse dial so we want to reverse stitch we press it down in that wall out to go in reverse this will set our stitch length so zero means it doesn't feed at all you turn it over to s one that will give you the blue colored stitches down here in your stitch selector and then turning it back to any of the links and black will give you all the black selectors so you're going to use this to switch over to some of the specialty decorative stitches and utility stitches and then otherwise just use the length indicator to show what's going on here so by default default stitch length is two point two point five to three so somewhere in that area there you'll learn that but in general the heavier the thread the thicker the material the longer the stitch length the thinner the thread the lighter the material you go with a short stitch length say all the way down to two two point five to three somewhere in there is a good place to start this is your stitch selector so I told you we're on a straight stitch when we're moving the needle position that's where that works this is your buttonhole stitch here this is your blind hem when you come pants or anything you want to blind him in and these are all the various other stitches utility stitches that are used decorative stitches and such so what I would suggest you do is get you some black thread get you some white fabric you use up an old pillowcase or something like that and go through each one of the stitch them out on it and Mark what it is make a note or something so you know what it is and use that as your reference as you go forward so for example on this one on black we've got that stitch we turn over to s1 it converts to the blue stitch so that's how to work that so that tells you how to do everything on the front of the machine I'm going to go ahead and go back to two point five we'll turn back around to a straight stitch and I'll do some stitching demonstrations to show you how to do that next okay we're ready to sew now so let me show you a pair of scissors that you may have seen your mama grandmom pad these are pinking shears and what they're good for see how this fabric is fraying on the edge here and use a serger generally to trim things and to get them under control that you don't have a serger at this point and I even use these when I'm cutting fabric out and working with big drapery fabric you know stuff that'll unravel just while handling it I cut with these pinking shears so what they do when you go down the edge is they will trim it so going keep these fairly straight come on they do that to the edge of your fabric and that keeps it from fraying when you're handling it so if you get really get rough with it that one didn't get pain very good but anyway if you trim it with these shears you can handle it without it fraying so much you do this edge here anyway that allows you to handle it without it fraying and even when you sew it and you part your seams after you've done your stitch at your half inch or 5/8 inch mark that helps you can lay it down and it won't fray on the inside when you wash it and stuff so get you some pinking shears and you'll have them forever and they do a good job when it comes to trimming the fabric and working with it to keep it from getting little strings all over the place okay to start selling we're going to put our fabric underneath the presser foot we're going to lower the presser foot and one of the rules and sewing is you start out with what they call it back tack so what I do is I go forward the distance that I'm going to go backwards and then I go backwards and I come forward the reason I do that I don't want to go forward backwards and then forward puts too much stress on the the end of the fabric where you're trying to tack it down so press your reverse we've got our stitch length set at 2.5 we're doing a straight stitch we've got our needle position go ahead and put it in the center and when you put it in the center you've got to take your width back to zero because anything beyond zero it's going to move it over to the left of the center position so when you put it in center put your whip back to zero I've got the tension set at four and I'm going to sew on this is called Muslim that's cheap cotton fabric is all it is we use it a lot for testing so I would go backwards about three stitches and we release the handle and then we start selling and we go forward when you start sewing hold on to the thread tails behind the foot that keeps you from getting a little mess underneath your fabric a little ball of wadded-up thread so always do that hang on to it and I even hang on to it for the first few stitches when I go forward it just helps pull the fabric nice and straight put some pressure foot and just guide your fabric and you don't want to pull it or anything we'll let the Machine beat it by the fault and you can guide it with one of the guides try to keep your single story none of this is straight that I'm sewing right now so I'm coming to the end so I may turn the wheel to get right to the end and then I'm going to hold reverse will and I either use the foot to go backwards or I can turn it by hand just to make sure I keep it under control to go to your three stitches I'll go three back and I'll go one four and raise the foot to its highest position raise the presser foot and that releases the tension and you can pull your thread out and there's a thread cutter right here that you can use so I'll go ahead and use it and that will cut your thread take your tails move them back to the back of the machine and look at your stitch so what you're looking for is this fabrics a little bit tougher because it's so thin but you're looking to see if there any loose loops on the backside of the material this is so thin you can actually see the pink which is the top as it comes around and loops with the blue bottom thread and on this side we don't see any of the bullet so I would take this tension actually that looks pretty good you may take it up to four and a half after you do that it could be maybe just a tad bit tighter but if you see this you let your fabric down it should lie flat I'm going to show you what it does when your tension is too tight you cut my threads here okay I'm going to tighten the tension up to nine so we turned it all the way up so now the top thread is going to be really hard to pull and what it's going to do is when the needle comes up it's really going to pull hard on this loop here on the bottom and you'll see it the result of it being too tight okay that's all nine I did a few stitches there I'm going to go down to seven a few stitches of seven go down to six into a few stitches go to five stitches I'm going to go all the way down to three edges I'm going to go down to two did you stitch yes and then we got into one of these stitches and then finally zero and a few stitches and we'll see the difference between those I'm going to go back up to four to end here so we can tie it off now right needle at the highest position and we can pour it out I'm going to use scissors to cut this a little bit closer this time and let's look at the back we're going to thread down here so we can see where we started okay you'll see the puckering on that how the thread is kind of you see little lines there that is your tension is too tight on the top as we come down you'll see it starts laying flatter and flatter and so somewhere around the six mark that it looks good the fabric sling fairly flat now it's a little get a little bit of a roll in it so when we got back down to around four or five I think I went from six to four is where it looks about like that look you can see here when it got too loose see the the pink thread how we have the loops that means our tension is too loose so when you see that your tension is too loose when you see this down here it puckered up it's too tight it's pulling too hard you can see the strain on the fabric there and somewhere around in here is just right as around four on this in here and this is where it got loose down here doesn't show so much on this side it's going to show on that side and what happens is your bobbin tension generally doesn't have to be changed on the machines only extreme circumstances do you have to change that but the bottom has tension pulling this way the top interlocks this way and pulls up the idea is for it to be balanced enough to where the thread does this join in the middle of the fabric it's a little bit harder to do on this fabric because it's so thin but you can see it's good and tight here and that's what you would want so and this is too loose so that shows you from extremely tight to the middle range the middle range is fairly forgiving though if you get too loose you get this if you get too tight you get that so that kind of shows you something on the tension let's talk about needles and the importance of needles necks so let me I get reset up for that and we'll go through that okay I'm going to go through needles and the different style of needles there are and what their use is it's very important when you sew to know the appropriate needle and the appropriate thread for the fabric that you're selling here's the most common needle it's a universal regular point needle I'd suggest when you start get the sizes multiple sizes that you can get these packets these numbers the big number is the metric the little number is the u.s. measurement so they're the same thing ad metric means 11 us and this is the style the singer assigns to their needles this is a style 20 20 for example and in this package I've got an 80 11 a 90 14 and a 116 so on USS says 11 14 16 metric it's 80 9100 so that's the way you measure the needles singer colors the shank to tell you what color or what size they are the orange the blue and the purple will tell you the size so it's kind of a color-coded way to figure out what you've got if you you know can't quite read the writing on it so anyway this is a generic needle general cotton and things it'll so so that's about the best way to say it most fabrics when you get into really sewing things you need something beyond this so let me show you what those are for knits t-shirts I've got some knit here somewhere find it there it is this is a cotton like an old t-shirt you'd want to use a ballpoint needle for it and the ballpoint needles are just that they're a ball and they separate the fabric where you see the the knit the weave and they don't cut it the way other needles do so use that on any of the nets and you'll have success there's also a stretch needle I don't have one of those here it's in my stash somewhere but there's a stretch needle that can be used for like real stretchy knits a lot of people find using the stretch needle that works well for some of the finer knits so either a ballpoint or a stretch either one should work and I get both of them in my stash that way if you try one and it doesn't look quite right you can try you the stretch of the ballpoint and it may look better so use again buy enough fabric where you can test your stitches okay that's the ballpoint let's go to the denim this and this two of them here these are denim needles this is Smets Alexa Metz needles this is the singer being the same thing these are identical in size they're both 116 the only difference is the main actors different so I'd get size 16 and size 18 and singer you can buy them where you got 16 and 18 and one pack may be a good option for you but have the size 18 in stock because you ever helm all para Levi's that are 100% cotton they're 14.5 ounce denim that side seam is extremely dense and I've tested machines you can see some of my test videos showing the difference 20 years in a size 16 and size 18 NATO on denim so that's what I'd get let me show you what I use mostly for denim this is a top stitching needle and it's a size 116 and so this is what I use when I am sewing denim the reason I use a stretch needle I mean a top stitch needle the eye of the needle is larger and I use heavy thread so that allows that heavy thread to pass through without damaging it anyway that way your top stitching looks really nice so in denim top stitching needles are a good option they've got the same style point that a denim needle has bigger eye for thicker top stitching fabric gives you a little bit better result so that's what I primarily use when I sew my jeans last is the leather needle I'm going to differentiate between the leather and faux leather fake man-made leather use this for leather you can use it for faux leather most people use a denim needle says 16 denim needle and it works great for faux man-made leather but when you sew real leather Cal hide cheap skin pigskin any stuff to get the leather needle the reason you want it the tip is of the needle is like a knife and it cuts through the skin to form the stitch which is what you need when it comes to leather so for leather use a leather needle for faux leather you can get away with a denim needle again try to have both in your for pinning I'm going to show you several options I don't pin a whole lot I've learned to sew use an industrial technique or I don't use pins on anything that's especially leg seams things like that I just know it Olaf Abra but I'm gonna give you some pointers on pins first off these style pins are the best ones to use rather than the ones with the ball heads on them these will distort when you put the pin and your seam the ball raises the seam up a little bit it distorts it if you use these pins it won't do that they're harder to use and all that but you'll get a better stitch with these old-style flat head pins then you will with these pins I got these out because this is important again when you're using knits don't use these sharp needles use a ball pen needle and again it's just like your sewing needle it won't cut the fabric it'll actually go around the weave without cutting it so these are ball pins if I have to pin a double knit fabric or any kind of a knit this is what I use instead of the standard needles and standard needles my favorite needles are these quilters needles because they're longer it's much easier to use and see how flat the head is so it's got a nice flat head it keeps it from the head is actually flatter than the needle so these don't distort when you stick them in the fabric like so I wouldn't use it on this fabric because it's got a short pin but when you get it in the fabric it stays nice and flat so it's not distorting it compared to where you put the bolt pin and the head is fat and you get it to the end so the idea when you pin is to try to use just about all of the needle and that ties everything down nicely so you do you know some it's a little bit too much but do something like that you can see when you stretch the fabric out the pen is actually higher than what the the end of it is here so that's a good option they're longer it makes it them easier to get in and out and use so that's why I like using those another great option especially so faux leather for these wonder Clips these works great they're quick and easy to get on your seam and then when you're sewing you just press down like that and pull it to the side that comes right off these come in boxes of 50 if you buy them get two boxes because when you get going with these along seam of some sort you can you can go through 50 of them easy to learn that the hard way last see well not last get you seam ripper don't buy one of these bottom two and three at a time they get dull very quickly and you can rip your fabric if you're trying to get a seam out you use a dull seam ripper so make sure you have two or three of these on hand all times two or three spare because you'll need to rip a long seam out yo suddenly rose is dull and you'll have to grab another one throw the doll in a way don't keep it around and you these you go through them they're like paper towels you go through them quickly and use it very much you'd be so very much you're going to rip seams out scissors these are the ones you can find at any fabric store Walmart they're okay and you get the money these are KY scissors they're made in Japan and there's absolutely no comparison and the quality of these to these but the difference is these are seven bucks eight bucks whatever these I bought this with another one was like $60 so they're more expensive but you really get what you pay for in scissors they'll sharpen these for free if you send them back they have a lifetime warranty them I've got several different sizes of these absolutely love these scissors they're so nice and what's nice about them is when you need to cut at the very tip and this one is curved so if I've sewed my seam and I need to cut a piece of fabric like that it's curved and I can get it right in there so I get it right now let me turn around where I can hold it and get it right in there and just snip that that thread off like that these the tip is not nearly as precise and so when you're trying to cut something off sometimes you'll have to hit it twice sometimes it'll it'll do it perfectly but highly recommend the Kai Sears shears let's see back to needles for a minute this is my stash it's good for you to have a stash of needles and this is a ballpoint leather denim heavy just generic heavy duty needles that means it's just thicker heavier it's not for denim it's not for anything it's just a general-purpose heavy needle yeah and you say I've got a lot of ball points because I do so a lot of knits but anyway get you a stash these don't have a shelf life the last every time I go to a fabric store or whatever I'll pick up a pack or two of whatever I need and I should put them in my stash so I have them okay I've got a little bit different material here to show you proper tension this will allow us to see it join in the middle of a fabric better so let's use it to show you proper tension so I'm going to set the tension up to about 4.5 I think it's probably about what we want for this so let's go ahead and sew this have a look at our fabric okay I'm going to get the distance that I want to back stitch first and one of the things to do is pull the thread tails out long enough where you can grab a hold of them easily my bobbin thread is a little sharp and cutting it so I pulled it out a little bit longer makes it just easy to reach there and grab a hold it I can get it scared before you start one of the last things when you get into these kind of plaids is you can follow a thread line so I'm going to get on try to get on the black thread line backhand so here we go so I'm going to back stitch to start out okay so the first half is probably proper tension I'm going to do the second half at like a 1 if you will go down to 0 and then I'm going to go all the way up to nine for the rest and back town 24.5 50 back stitches that come forward to stitch or two and again get the needle at the highest position and then pull your thread back okay this will allow us to see much better what's going on okay you're going to look closely here in the black there's our pink thread we don't see any blue we see only pink we turn it over we should only see blue and no pink and that's what we do that's proper tension we don't see any of the pink you barely barely see it because that's black thread and so it could be just a little bit tighter I was at four point five as I told you before I thought five had to be perfect so seeing that it would work I'd actually go up to five until I couldn't see that pink thread anymore and it joined in the middle I'll do a few stitches here in just second at the higher tension matter if I when we go to nine here you see you just barely see that pink nine is too tight because you can see how its kind of gathered up the thread there it's not laying this flat because it is here it's kind of puffed up that tells you the tension is too tight and then again as we start loosening the thread you see the loops on the back side and then I tightened it back up to the higher setting here which was nine so the nine pulled it up where you couldn't see anything at all and then I went back to normal here so anyway that shows you a little bit thicker fabric what's going on let me show a few here with like a 5.5 setting see if we can get that I'm going to go up to six and see what it looks like so always buy extra fabric when you're going to sew and it will allow you to do these tests it will save you so much time effort you won't waste fabric and you won't waste time and you do that so get enough or you can cut off a few strips and run through and do your test stitches and it'll be so much easier you know so with so much more confidence once you can see this okay that's it six I'm gonna go down to 5.5 this machine will so fast so if you floor it the problem with this table it's a plastic table so it's going to jump all over the place try to keep it slow and steady you go to the highest position what you'll see when it's Addis highest position you'll see the top thread pull around the bobbin when it disappears you know it's pretty much at the top position and it will release the thread okay yeah that looks good so you can see down on that stitch I don't see you need the pink on the reverse side of it so somewhere around five point five to six will be a good stitch for this so that's what you do you just get a strip so a few lines of stitches figure out which one's the best one and what I would do normally on this is I would do one tension down each one of these or half that way down with one tension the other half of the other that way it's easier to keep up with what you did and when you look at it it makes more sense just leave the tails on the end you start it so you know which end you started on and so I know on this one you know what the tension was of a six on the first half and 5.5 on the second half so I can kind of look at it and decide what I want to do so anyway that shows you tension okay I'm going to use a special foot this is called the over edge foot that you can get online and it has a guide right here on the right side that you can follow your fabric by and then you can see where the needle is it's got a little bar there so what that allows the thread to do is have a little bit more thread to cover the edge so it loosens the red wouldn't press a little back release here up off our presser foot and put on our over edge foot you can use your regular presser foot to do this you just have to learn to got it now so it's nice about this one is it's got that God right there for the fabric to follow so you get a good even stitch all the way down your fabric when you use this a foot so that's why I'm showing it to you and highly recommend it so all right I've got the s1 activated and it's on stitch D and stitch a is a straight stitch and as you turn the lever to the right one click will be B 2 C 3 D so on and so forth when you look at your manual so we're on sketch D with the s1 active so that's the blue stitch so I'll show you this one you see how it's going back and forth it's a reinforced stitch just got it against that little black guide keep it nice and straight you look at my attention I've got my tension set at 3 that looks pretty good you want it in between 2 and 3 depending on how thick your fabric is what I'm doing on my left hand I just want to make sure that I keep the tension up next to that guide as it does this cuz it can tend to walk away from get to the yam just keep pushing a little little edge right up next to the edge okay so the bucket what we have here there's our surged over the edge seam and so you can see how nicely it does with that guy down there everything's nice and even so that's why I recommend getting the guide with practice you can do it with a straight stitch foot what you want to do is keep your fabric kind of lined up about right there when you're using the regular presser foot you can get the same results you kind of turn the needle and see you want it to go off the edge over here that's what creates the serged edge it wraps around it and again your tension should be in between two and three one was on three on this fabric and you press it in a light flat it'll be nice so that's the over edge foot and how to do the serged edge on the machine so again looking at your manual on page 24 we're using the D stitch which is that stitch right there and again that's a and as you turn the knob to the right it will go to B C and D on the blue setting the s-1 setting that's that stitch so anyway I hope this helps you get started on your machine it's a good fundamental machine again you can sew leather and denim on it which makes it really nice and hopefully you'll get along with it and everything will work out good for you this should give you a good fundamental foundation to get started with and if I can help you with anything post it in the comment section and I'll see if I can answer your question so that's it for now if you have any questions let me know take care you

Channel: Kevin Sews

Views: 1,117,111

Rating: 4.8046007 out of 5

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Id: U6B5ESdyWeI

Length: 55min 12sec (3312 seconds)

Published: Sun Jan 19 2014