Sim Lab P1-X Sim Racing Chassis Review

[Music] welcome to another edition of the simracing garage I am very Roland in this episode we'll be reviewing the sim labs latest flagship aluminum profile cockpit kit the p1 X thankfully sim lab did not change the previous p1 s basic configuration and only added features that improve on what is my current go to cockpit for everyday driving and review duties time to put the p1 X through the SR G's review process and see how it does so let's get to it so I thought I would talk a little bit about the hardware that we're gonna be used to assemble it are using rather to assemble this kit with and for the uninitiated it can be a little bit intimidating but it's really rather simple once you've done it a few times and get the general grasp of how it works it's pretty simple stuff we have the aluminum extrusion and this is one of this this is the smallest piece or diameter that we get in this kit this is called a 40 40 because it has the 40 millimeter square piece on each side and yeah there's channels as you can see in each side also and in these channels we will be putting what we would call it tea nuts right so that we can put and they have threads in these tea nuts so that we can actually fix things to the actual profile and these particular tea now there's there's different variations of tea nuts and corner brackets that we can get but we're going to just be focusing on what we're using for this kit and these are actually very nice units these are stainless steel what they call spring ball they have a little spring ball in them there that maintains tension while we're in the channel of our aluminum extrusion or profile and we also have a threaded bit on one side and this particular one is an m8 thread which is in a 1.25 pitch and that's typically what you'll see in most aluminum extrusions or 80/20 profile rigs for the assembly pieces we also have included in this kit a 6 mil or m6 thread for attaching peripherals or shifters or things like that and of course we're going to have corresponding bolt that fit all this now you can see that once we have this the t-nut in and typically what I'll do is load my peanuts into the location where I'm going to be putting a bracket or whatever I'm mounting and speaking of brackets these are the corner brackets that come with the kit now they call these gusseted corner brackets which means these metal pieces here that join this L bracket basically it's an L bracket with the metal reinforcements there which it makes this a very very stiff corner bracket and these typically actually have the little tips on them or guides or tabs if you will and these tabs are the same size or very close to the same size as a channel in this 40 series profile so what that means is these are kind of like a location tabs that keep them from rotating any rotation taps or do you want to call them and they just fit right there in the channel you can see I'll show you shun over there so they fit there in the channel and it keeps it from you can see I can move it a little bit here it's got a little bit of lash in it or play but yet it doesn't move very far and this just enhances the structural integrity of the entire assembly of your cockpit once you have it done very nice I like these tabs now sometimes we can't use these tabs in a typical way that I'll use the tab use this bracket is you'll have a piece going like this and then another piece coming in and we're forming a 90 degree angle okay so we'll put the bracket in one place like this and we'll have our t nut in there our bolt obviously holding it and then we'll put the other piece and because these see how these grooves are gonna line up the tabs on here will also fit in this piece so I'll just put it up here so then we go ahead and cinch it down in there we have a nice 90 degree angle and what's cool about the profile when you build it is because of these all these brackets are square that we're using when you pull them tight if you pull them together like you should then you have a nice square assembly when you're done right so that's another bonus of using this kind of construction material and yeah if I have a piece coming in like this though alright and I'm trying to attach it let's dig it light on there okay see the groove there and then we have a group going the other or perpendicular to that then we have to take one side of these tabs on your bracket and pop them off and I might have to do that and when I get to that point I'll show you doing that but it's very simple you just put a screwdriver or something stiff in there and you can actually pry against this tab all right and it would just snap right off and usually they snap off perfectly level so they don't drag anywhere or they don't press up against anything and scratch anything and I would just pop both of those off then I could come in and do the assembly like I want to with this one of this I'm you know it doesn't matter which one well it'd have to be this one actually in this particular example so that if the grease would fit in that piece but in here obviously they're going this way so they're not going to fit in the groove on this piece so that's why I knock them off but this still would allow my bracket to mount flush with this piece of profile so that's an instant before you have to take them off right so that's two of the basic things that you know that you'll have to do for assembly you chances are most of time when we do these we'll have channels on both sides and they'll line up nice when we'll have to break them off right so let's talk about the bolts that come with this we've got an m8 bolts there socket head cap units this is a six millimeter hex size on it but it's an m8 1.25 pitch on these all stainless steel units and we will get a couple of different sizes these are all the same here I was looking for a different size when I'm sure they're in there somewhere but couldn't find it but I was able to find them in the black bolts now we get the black bolts in two different configurations we've got the inmates and they're both m8 threads by the way we have an m8 socket head cap like this just like this the stainless steel one over there and we have what is known as a flat head so these flat heads and now all these black hardware bits are going to be used when we've used these custom brackets too during our assembly and of course we want this tapered or flat head unit you can see how they have counter bores in these brackets so when they go in they fit in there like that and they're out of the way nice and flush and actually they're lower than flush so they're actually recessed a little bit in there and most we get to at the this is actually for the shifter assembly and once we get to that we'll go into more detail obviously as I'm assembling it so this is the black pieces are gonna be used for the black brackets and because there's still going to be exposed so that's kind of its kind of a aesthetic if you will so if you have you know silver ones sitting in there yeah it wouldn't be quite as as good and even though this is not a flathead but you could see the contrast it would be there so again it's more of aesthetic than anything else but in some some instances when we're using this this will be a hidden screw head and once we get it assembled so that's another reason why it's a flat head and we'll sit down in that counter bore so anything else we want to talk about here this is a basic now here's one thing let me show you how this t-nut 2 actually works now these are great again because you don't have to put these in the end and slide them down to where you wanted to be to attach something which can be a real headache if you've already got something attached onto a piece of profile right it means a shorter piece here so yeah it can be a real headache trying to take everything off just so you can put something else on and this word and this is where these tea nuts with the spring balls are invaluable they're just really super so how I typically put these in depending on where gravity is pulling this nut I don't usually if it's gravity is pulling down like this way I won't insert it like this I'll insert the bottom edge first all right oops using you see you there so I'll just kind of let it roll in like that and you're gonna have to put a little pressure on it and push this spring ball past the lip here and it just kind of pops in so there we go now we're popped in so I can get it in the general area I want to but don't I don't have to be specifically perfect because now I'm just going to set it and it's still movable once I set it in so you can't just leave it like this obviously it's off angle there's no way we're going to get our bolt in there so I usually take two fingers and just take the fingernails and remember the groove actually let me show you this again these actually have grooves in them on the top see that groove there and that groove is the same size as the channel here so it kind of helps locate this once you have it in there and that's what I'm gonna do I'm actually gonna Center it and locate it and it'll stay there because of those grooves right so what I'll do is take my finger and grab the bottom of that groove and I'm what I'm gonna do is kind of a roll in motion I'm just gonna kind of push it on down and in at the same time and that pushes puts pressure on that spring ball and allows the this lip right here to go past the black lip of the profile so the nut lip goes by and then it'll set so I'm gonna do that I'm just going to press down and in at the same time and it kind of just you can see I can push it in like way say I'm at and now I'm just gonna kind of walk it up with my fingernails so you hear that pop hear that so now we're centered in the channel and still I can move this around without any issues so we have it in and that's really half the battle so now of course we can come in with our corner bracket and set it in here and you can see the hole in there right now one thing I wanted to mention here and this is just an aesthetic thing it's just something that I'm a little anal about is the orientation of this t-nut itself you can see we have a longer piece away from the bolt what I'll typically do here is make sure that that long piece is going towards the back end of my corner bracket all right so once it's in there like this you can see that if I have to put the bolt all the way out in the groove you still don't see the nut sticking out right the nut will be covered by the bracket itself now if I did it the other way we'll flip it around and I had the nut all the way to the to the outside then you can see there yeah and the reason the nut would be or rather not the nut the bolt head would go in towards the outsides because you want room in between both of these slots here to be able to get your wrench in there if you stack them too close ones gonna be in the way or the other of tightening down your wrench so yet you can avoid that by doing this by sliding that out and giving yourself more room on both of the actual socket head cap bolts or whatever bolt you're using but you can see how that's sticking out and again that's an aesthetics thing it doesn't really affect the integrity of the holding power or anything like that it's just I think it looks a little better when you do it this way and yeah that way it's all covered up and it's kind of a cleaner look when you're when your job is finished you're probably gonna look at it and say yeah I'm glad I did it that way instead of having a bunch of them sitting out you know like all right so now let's talk about getting the T knot out and easy enough you put your fingers in again and I'm just going to press roll in do the same motion in my finger nails are gonna catch the top of that little groove in that T nut and I'm just gonna press down on it and then kind of let pressure off and pull it towards me with my finger nails and that just popped it loose alright easy way to get it pop loose now the only problem with these things are now that it's loose it's not the easiest thing to get out of the channel right it'll you got to roll it towards you and yet it's kind of finicky and yeah so alleviate all your problems with one of these this is just a pick tool there's different all kinds of different orientations of these things it just has a very sharp end on it for getting into things or you know moving things around in little teeny areas and I use this to get my t-nuts out it's a very simple thing you go into where the bolt hole is or the threads are and I just grab the lip of it there and kind of rotate it right so what will happen is then get your shot of that here it'll kind of rotate out you know don't put it all the way in obviously because then the tip would be stuck on the lip there as I try to rotate it out so I'm just putting the tip of it in just barely and you can see it just kind of rotates out and now my tip is cleared the channel I can push it further up and then it's just a matter of pulling it out there you go very very easy to do it with a little tool like this so if you look work a lot with aluminum profile and you're obviously going to be working a lot with these T nuts if you're doing that this will save you a lot of anger and cuss words I'm trying to keep one of these out so that's how it works so that was just a again this is just a simple introduction to how this hardware works and it's not obvious you know it's when you first look at this how you're gonna be using them and I know people still actually will put push them in from the ends but yeah push it you know sliding them in them out my goodness that's just such a valuable read will feature in the construction process right so in of course in this kit we're gonna have lots of bolts and you know certain this this is a front mount pack it's very well done as far as each assembly has its own here so my front mount which is the this is the big bag of a ton of this stuff the front mount is this and to attach the side brackets to the front mount they've actually went ahead and put it all in a nice neat bag right here so all my hardware is there very cool I like it when they do that we also have a got the fanuc podium wheel base mount and all the hardware for that one is there so it's like I said this kit is very well done and I know some people say well why get a kit I should you know our could just go ahead and buy all this stuff and build it myself and that's very true but yeah having a kit means you don't buy a lot more hardware than you need what you typically will do if you're building your own and all this stuff will just be here for you and you won't have to run out to the hardware store and get another bolt if obviously the kit provides you with everything that you do need right so what we're gonna do now is start assembling the rig and yeah we just get to that segment next now we're going to start building the chassis and of course we're going to be wanting to use the base pieces to assemble first and once we have those assemble that we can add on as we go now the p1 p1 X are massive feeling cockpits when you're sitting in and they feel like you're sitting on a boulder just no movement at all and the one of the reasons is first off its profile and it's bolted together properly but these are pretty massive pieces that we're using here for the bottom frame this is what we call a 40 by 160 profile and you can see it's like having four 40 millimeter profiles stacked together alright and all the grooves are the same if they would be if there was a 40 40 profile here now this is a heavy piece it it comes in at 40 no is it 16 yeah it's sixteen point four pounds for this thing so it's a very substantial piece of metal here and of course 16 4 pounds translates to seven making much a scraping noises here at my fingers translates to 7.4 kilos so again a massive piece of profile here and we're going to be connecting these pieces in between I call these the spreader pieces because they're going to determine the width of our cop pit now this is 500 millimeters wide and again it's a 40 by 160 now this piece is a lot lighter it comes in at five point seven pounds or 2.6 kilos right so this is 500 millimeters long this is 40 millimeters wide it's going to be sitting like this once we get it assembled all right so these spreaders are determining the width of our chassis plus the width of this piece bound here which is 40 millimeters we have two of them on each side our one on each side rather makes two and that gives us five hundred and eighty millimeters for the total width of a p1x chassis all right simple enough right so what we're gonna do is we're going to use some corner brackets for this to assemble this and we already saw the hardware in the hardware section that I started this review with so what we're gonna use is these gusseted corner brackets and we're going to be putting one of these on the top channel and one on the bottom channel and we'll see this more closely once we actually get it on there and flip them around so you can see better what's going on and remember the tabs in here are locking in the channels so you can't wiggle around again a very nice feature of these brackets and we're gonna set this right here not right here in this position but it's going to sit right there and you can see that these channels are gonna line up and the tabs are gonna fit in those channels and we're gonna draw that together it's gonna be nice and tight right pretty simple so what we'll do next is we'll go over to the floor where we're gonna build this thing and yeah start putting it together I have the bottom pieces of profile these 160 by 40 sections configured and set up pretty much where I want them to be now there is a requirement for getting the proper spacing between this rear short piece or spreader piece and the front one as far as this way and the easy way to the easiest way to get this right it should be 500 millimeters in the actual space in between them because we have two of these 580 millimeter profiles that are actually going to be our seat rails you only have to do is set those on top once you have it mocked up sitting here like this and I'll bring this one over here and set it over here and this is where we're going to put our seat bracket so that our seat will actually be able to attach it to our chassis so I can feel on both ends and I'm pretty flush here and I'm looking straight down on top to make sure it looks straight or as straight as it can be because it's really gonna straighten up once we get our corner brackets in and I can see that now this is located in the proper position right so once that's done if we just get these out of the way and now we're ready to start installing our corner brackets I'm just gonna do this side because we're gonna do the same thing on the other side and really no need to see it done twice so what we're gonna do first is put in these spring ball T nuts right and I'm gonna start down here on the bottom channel of this one because you're not gonna be able to seat as well there and again I'm considering what my orientation in my corner bracket is remember I want if you saw the hardware part what I want is is a little bit of this Tina expose you're showing rather in my channel once I have everything bolted up now if I turn this long piece towards the back of this corner bracket on both sides then I don't have it sticking out with my bolts in there like that we don't want to stick it out so I'm gonna make sure and sometimes I forget and I get it wrong and then I have to go back take it back apart but I'm trying to pay attention this time right so again easy enough I always start with that the bottom part goes in to the bottom part of the channel and then I'll just go ahead and press it in like you saw before in the hardware bits and then I'm going to take my fingernails two fingernails and kind of press that in and get it to get in the channel where it's supposed to be so that's located and always push them out a little bit because I'll end up tapping them in a little once I get the corner bracket where I want it and then we'll go ahead and slide it in and put the boat in I found that's probably the easiest way for me to do it I'm gonna go ahead and put one on this side also because I'm already here so we'll put the bottom in first well you guys can see this but same procedure for all of it and once you've done this a few times it really becomes pretty easy it's not that hard and I'll go ahead and put one on the top remember going to put a bracket on the bottom and we're gonna put one on the top here and then of course we'll tighten it all down later let's go ahead and put this one in and again sometimes you can use your thumb to do it but two fingers really works the best because you can kind of shove it around with each finger rotating back and forth to get it in locked in the channel where we want it to be and yeah this goes pretty quick just kind of keep paying attention to what my orientation is as far as where that piece is gonna be pointing there we go you can see this actually goes pretty easy and these tea nuts are just awesome to be able to just slide them in like this or just pop them in rather is really a treat than having to take everything apart all the time every time we want to put something new on our rig put this one in and they go pretty quick like say I've been doing this as you guys probably know if you've been watching in my videos for a long time and it usually goes pretty easy for me but you know you never can tell with these things some of these tea nuts might be a little bit different far the tolerances in the manufacturing and they might create a little issue when you're trying to put them in but these look like they seem to be going in pretty well without too much drama if you will you know more up here and we're gonna be done so you can see how fast this can actually go as far as assembly in fact I could get this done pretty quick if I wasn't shooting video all right so there we have it and I have them like I said before I have it pushed out a little dirt on in here and now it's a simple matter of coming in with a corner bracket alright and I'm just going to set the corner bracket right here and then I usually take my wrench this is a six millimeter ball hit driver wrench and I use this all the time for snugging things up and all I'm gonna do is I usually take this and push it that t-nut in to where i can see it needs to be and that's where it is i don't know whether it's showing up but now i should be able to put my bolt in no drama and there it is now I can do the same thing to the other side push it in door I think it needs to be to catch the bolt and put it in with my finger once it's in with my finger finger tight I'm gonna get all of these the same way right just get them finger tight and then I'll come back and tighten them in a rotating pattern to pull everything in and these being 90 degree brackets we should have a perfect square once we're done and we'll check on that once we're finished so I'm gonna go ahead and speed the rest of this up all right so we have them assembled now as far as the very loosely obviously so I want to when I start tightening this up and I'm gonna push the first thing I'm going to do is take these if you can see these bolt heads they're just a little bit in as far as towards the end of the profile and this is again you'll see why again while we do this the t-nuts that way and put them in the right direction because now I can push this or pull it that bolt get it down a little bit see I can pull it to the front of this bracket see I went to the front see how this one's kind of you can move them back and forth actually I can take this and move this one back and forth you guys can see that usually helps if you're got it snugged up a little bit and I can move it into the slot forward like that and this keeps the separation of your bolt heads where you need them to be so you have good access to each one of them as your snugging things up and I'm just gonna again lightly Snug this up keep it loose and we don't want to tighten things up yet and again spreading it out as I'm doing that because these things will pull in different directions as we're tightening them up all right you can block this thing here for you guys leave a little loose do this one over here so if I rotate between the bolt heads here I can I'm actually sliding this bracket this way and then I'm sliding it the other way so I'm pulling in together evenly if I do that properly it's going to give me a perfect square in here because these are 90-degree brackets and they're kind of self aligning but you do have to rotate between these bolt heads to make that happen because one will pull in too far and you'll be you'll be off the other profile if you don't pull them in in a rotating pattern so I'll slowly pull it in a rotating pattern like that and that's gonna get me where I need to be in fact I can see it moving over there to bring it into a 90 degree right so we've got this one sorted and we're not going to tighten this side up obviously because we want to wait until we get our four brackets on the other side and then I'll slowly tighten everything up making sure that all my profiles are flush where they need to be and again if we tighten them properly we should have a perfectly square box here when we're done so let me come back I'll have the other side done I'll have everything tightened up and we'll take a look at what it sees what actually we'll take a look at it and see what it looks like at that point now we have all the brackets attached and I've cinch them down tightly and on this part of the frame I usually do torque a little bit more than I normally do for just like attaching a shifter or something because this is the base and this is going to take the stresses of daily use and especially because I'm going to be using some actuators on this frame D box or otherwise and so I like to cinch them down extra tight now as you can see all of them are attached now and we should have a nice square box if I did what I was supposed to do as far as rotating as I cinch this down while maintaining my spacing at the same time now easy way to see if you have a square box when you're building something is to measure the diagonals this way in this way and if they match you know you have a square at least from the edges of these corner brackets now we might be a millimeter or two off as far as the brackets being true but maybe the profile might be a little bit short on one side or the other if you measure that also but typically you'll be pretty close and a millimeter yeah it's not going to make a whole lot of difference anyway so I'll measure I'll bump this up against that brackets corner brackets face there and then I'll look straight down on the tape measure over here and I can see I have a hundred let's say 650 looks like six almost seven 657 make sure I keep this straight and put good tension on yeah we'll call it 600 and well actually 52 not 57 I'm not pass to five yet okay so 652 now we'll go over here and do the same thing and I'm looking down on that and that's dead-on 651 all right so 652 this way 651 there way I'm a millimeter out of square which for this purpose is acceptable to me anyway it's gonna be really difficult to get that one millimeter you know bought in and again it could be the tolerances of the actual brackets themselves in their manufacturing process so I'm not going to worry about it too much I'll also measure the distance on each side here just to see how we're doing there and it looks like we have 501 millimeters there try to keep it straight as I can yeah five fun one and then I'll look over here and here I have 503 so I'm two millimeters out as far as coming this way from over there again two millimeters is not going to make or break anything here this is going to be okay but it's again this is the cool thing about profile you can get things pretty square just by tightening these up and you know bumping the profile as you're doing that trying to keep things straight so I'm probably just gonna leave that there because it's not going to affect anything as far as sitting the rails on top of this and we'll get to that in another segment so I also want to introduce you to these caps here that are included in your kit and they go on to these corner brackets like this they have some tabs on them and the corner brackets have a groove on the bottom and on the top internally that's accepts these tabs they're on here easy enough it's not a big deal and you just press that in and sometimes they won't go all the way in just by pressing them and I'll take my soft nylon mallet here as a dual head thing and just kind of tap it and there it goes now to be honest typically I don't use these covers in the internal situation like this because no one's really gonna see it once the bars are on here for the seat and you have your seat on all you're gonna see is the top of the metal pieces here which this doesn't cover anyway of course you can do it any way you want to that's the beauty of building your own rig so I like again like I said before rather typically don't use these so that's all accomplished now we have a nice solid frame of course it's going to be more solid once we attach our seat rails and get our pedal tray actually bolted into because all as we add this it improves the structural integrity of the whole unit of course as you might imagine so yeah we'll get to the next segment now we're ready to put the seat rails on and of course we'll putting a seat bracket on top of this rail to hold our seat depending on which seat that you're going to be using now I've already set our tea nuts in our m8t nuts and these corner brackets here I've already removed one side remember this is now we're actually crossing it's back in there we're actually crossing these two profiles so I have a channel going this way and I have a channel running perpendicular the other way so if you watch the hardware part of the review the tabs on these corners brackets here you can see I still have my tabs there right but I've taken the tabs off the other side so it sits flush with the profile and here's a quick little shot here of me showing you the screwdriver I use to remove those tabs so once we remove the tabs obviously we can mount it flat and flush the way we need it to and we still have these tabs here to fit in the channel like that so all we have to do is line this up and remember I'm going to leave this loose I'm not going to cinch it down tight yet because I have no idea how wide I'm going to need both of these to be to accommodate these seat brackets that I'll be using so we just go ahead and run these inmates in like this this is really one of the easiest things to do because it's sitting on top and then you don't have to hold anything and you don't have to get it a weird angle trying to find out where the hole is for your for your bolt rather and I did the same thing to this piece of profile here so we'll just mount that on the other side like this again very simple stuff and if you've been assembling your unit so far and if you've gotten this far with it then you're probably already getting used to doing these things as far as moving this stuff around now I had two Muhsin this one a little bit so I could get the hole lined up and again that's why we leave it kind of loose because once I'm done with this what I'm going to do is line up the profiles and make sure they're flush and then just give a short little tighten on this I'm not going to tighten it down like I said we're just it's kind of like just holding it in place and again I like to slide my screws all the way out to the in the bracket before I tighten it down right and I was going to Snug it up enough to keep it from moving around now remember this also these two pieces here add structural integrity to the whole chassis in as I said before as we add other pieces to this that cross connect then again it adds more rigidity if you will to the whole assembly and that's the cool thing about this stuff oh there's so many cool things in there but again easy enough to slide this back and forth well just loose so I can slide it actually it's too tight however either too loose because it's now it's jiggling around you have to have it down a little bit to get it to do this smoothly like this so we can slide this around again I usually put upward pressure when I'm sliding the stuff around trying to keep from scratching up my beautiful black anodized profiles here right simple enough that was a quick one right and yeah we're gonna move on to the next segment now we're gonna put the feet these are the OEM or stock feet that comes with a p1x cockpit there are some accessory feet that are available I'm going to show you shot of that here actually did a review of those in the p1 upgrade video that I did so you might want to check that out and get a better understanding how those work now well we get with the again stock set up is these guys and they're a rubber foot that has a metal insert in it to capture the bolt when we fasten it down and you can see on the other side it's also rubber so it sticks to the bottom of this rail pretty well right and we have another stainless steel spring ball d-nut alright and this one actually is threaded for a six millimeter screw so we can put a six millimeter bolt in here which I'm gonna show you that right here to fix it with I've already got some of these made up and this is what it looks like when we're done had the boat in there and this is a five millimeter head on this alright so that's what we're gonna use to tighten it down with so it's just a matter of sliding just like is you nothing really different here it's just like normal we'll slide this in and I'll show you me doing that on the top one here on the back and I won't know where I'm gonna actually end up with this foot but yeah it really doesn't matter and then it's just we just tighten it down with our five millimeter wrench which I have up here so we'll go ahead and just snug that up and you don't have to tighten these down a lot you just need to Snug it up a bit yeah it's not going anywhere so we'll go ahead and put the other three feet on this is probably going to be the shortest segment of this entire bill so when we will take a look at that one we get back right so we've got the feet on now and it's a very sticky foot especially on the cardboard here it might be a little less sticky on my concrete and I'm gonna leave this on the cardboard in case I drop something I don't want to scratch it up and I could just go ahead and take the cardboard off now but just for a safety measure I'll leave it on there but yeah these feet do a great job I mean if there's gonna be a static rig these feet I think are all you need even though like I mentioned in the other part of this segment that you there are some accessory feet that you can get that widen the footprint out but yeah I think if you're just gonna have this cop it's sitting the static without any you know future motion going on or anything these feet will probably do with the job unless of course you need the rig for some reason to be higher up than the other accessory feet would be nice to have right so I've called this done and so the feet are installed and I'll think we'll probably get to the pedal tray next so let's take a look at what we're going to be using to assemble our pedal tray first thing you'll notice is these massive side plates to support the pedal tray these are 15 millimeters thick and they're rather hefty so it gives you the sense that this is going to be a very stiff pedal tray melt and it will never move as long as you have it cinched down properly now on one side we've got some beveled pieces here we've got the slot here we've got holes here here and up here that are counter sunk or these are beveled I call these counter socks so of course that's so we can use these guys these flat head screws our bolts and these are inmates and they'll fit in these holes like this and lay flat so that when we have this inside of the profile and we're moving it around we don't have obviously bolt heads sticking out and causing problems and this will also be using this in the slot if you choose to use the slot and they'll also fit in there as you can see and we'll tighten down wherever profile we put in there and now it allows us to move the profile and that's how I'm going to be doing it there's there's several ways to this the only main piece that has to be done one way is this piece here well you can actually do this two ways also this 4160 piece of course is the major piece and two of these holes on the sides here you can see they've actually been tapped and threaded and of course that's on the other side too so there's two ways to mount this these spaced holes here will fit these holes in the front so I can actually get this thing up here mount it statically right here because these holes will line up to the front part or I could turn it around and do something like this because the holes will still make it into that beveled section so I can this is very Universal almost a universal is a very adjustable unit you can put these plates this way you run it this way like it's laid the drivers over here and that's how I'm going to have it or you can flip it around and run it this way where you can put the big plate still in the front and use the bevel slots there and use the other plate well let's say we could put it here and then we can use the other plate as a step-down plate or a heel plate if you will let's say we have the top profile up here sitting here right the big fat one then we can actually put this one on these holes lower and have kind of like a heel plate there if you wanted to or you know however you want to do it and these holes here in this 4080 profile are actually have 40 millimeter centers on them and the plates themselves have two sets of the same thing I actually have my caliper set to the 40 millimeter centers because I already measured it and yeah you can see we're at 40 million 40 millimeter centers here and on this lower set down here right so again there's a few different ways you can do this there's no set way to do it I'm just gonna do it the way I'm gonna do it and yet you guys can do whatever you want now it's also neat that this kit comes with its own little baggie of parts and we have the usual suspects here of roll in peanuts and a lot of plaque hardware because these are black plates yeah that's why we're going to have all this black hardware just got a little tag they're showing us for the pedal tray and we've got some bolts that are let's see how long these puppies are I believe these are 35 s they look pretty long see we got I'm 25 yeah so these are 25 mil and we've also got these flat heads and remember I didn't I just had one out here but that wasn't from this kit so I put that out of the way over there stuff to mix it up because it's probably gonna be too short for this flat head it looks like to be yeah that's a 20 millimeter right there so we got our flat heads we've got our socket cap socket heads and of course all these are m8 and we have all our tea nuts now they also include some washers and also some m6 X that's m5 we've got an m6 and m5 okay so we've got m6 and m5 bolts and T nuts also so if you want to fix your pedals directly to the tray once we have it assembled then they give you the way to do that which is nice if they include that in the kit a lot of times you'll just get the assembly to make this tray or something and you won't get the little bits to actually attach something and that's really nice that they included that because again this is all stainless steel hardware and these spring ball roll in tea nuts are not cheap but they work so well so we also have some 5 millimeter black ones socket head cap screws and I'm not sure to see if we got a family I certainly do we actually have a 5 millimeter spring ball tea nuts in there again for attaching things now if you use the 6 and don't use the 5 that gives you an extra set of 5 to attach a shifter or something or whatever you want to do but the neat thing is we've got plenty of these spring ball T nuts to do what we need to do great kit you don't have to go out stop what you're doing and go out and shop around for something else right so what we're gonna do that this is the way I did this I did this pedal tray review already in the p1 X upgrade video than I did so what I'm gonna do is go over and set this up on the rig I'm gonna I'm gonna go ahead and tape it again just go ahead and be included in this video and show me attaching because it's to the clean chassis this time instead of when it's already had stuff on it and the best way I found to do this and I'm gonna be putting it in this way with this end supporting the 40 by 160 and then I'll have the 40 80 in this piece so I can slide it around and just it and of course again that's not set in stone you can do it any way you want to the important part here again we're going to have to attach to mhm in each one of these slots so that makes 4 times 2 is 8 and that's how we're going to be adjusting it back and forth and up and down and I'm gonna attach these plates first and get them in a position that are close to each other and then I'm gonna bring in and leave them loose of course and then I'm gonna bring in these profiles and attach them on the sides at least that's what that's what I'm doing so we'll go ahead and take everything over there I'm gonna go ahead and attach these side plates and then we'll go from there I have the side plates mounted now and I just wanted to give you guys like a little bit of a closer look here not a big deal obviously we're just mounting 4 bolts on each side and I actually put these in the top two channels so I get the maximum height adjustment of that these plates can give me so yeah just did that on both sides and we'll go over here to this side and take a look and also another pointer when you're setting this up if you see down here I've actually got the edges of these brackets flush with this piece of profile on both sides so this makes it sure or we'll make sure that my bolt holes up here when I go to put my profiles in that we'll see on the next bit of this segment will all be lined up as far as across each other here right so all this would be lined up and I shouldn't have any problems getting the bolts in other than me not being able to do it myself so yeah let's move on to putting the cross or spreader profiles on so we're going to start out with the 41 16 piece of profile and the easiest way to do this I found and this is a tight fit in between these plates and you want a tight fit you don't want it loose and then having to pull against these bolts to tighten this together but it be very snug and when I use as a technique of where I'll kind of put it in there and I'll take the sides of my hands the edges here and press against the brackets as I'm trying to get it in and this will put tension on the brackets and spread them as far as I can get them to hopefully slide this down in here so don't further adieu let's see how this works again I'm gonna get down here with the sides of my hands there we go slidin in there it's very tight which is in my eyes very good I don't want to loose fit that's for sure and now I'll have to do is get down here and hopefully my head does he get the way too much locate the hole I'll see if I can get a bolt started looks like that's going in there we go so see if we can get the back one in again this is very tight all of this so yeah and this is by the way a five millimeter hex head and that's what I'm using a five mil driver here alright so I'm just gonna kind of snug this time not even goes to knock it down I'll leave it loose cuz I don't want to bind anything up I'm trying to get the other side in now you're gonna see this hopefully it goes quick enough that it doesn't really matter so I'm gonna have to put some pressure on this one because of the way well let's see let me see if I can my bracket slide a little bit and it is sliding again this can be pretty finicky everything wiggling around on you yeah just try to get that hole lined up don't know if I'm far enough out yet this everything you're gonna get in there yeah he helps to jiggle it a little bit just take your hand and wiggle things so that one started so that means this one if all the machining was done properly should go ahead and start without too much as you here it goes so we'll go ahead and run these in again I don't want to tighten it all the way up until I get the back piece in because obviously it's gonna be very hard to get the back piece in if I've tightened up both of these brackets here so now we got to do is get the back piece in and this again is the 40 80 and again tapped and threaded on each end make sure you have that it's not going to work very well all right let's see how this one goes in actually because we got the other piece in there spreading it out already this should go in pretty good I think I thought you know what's thinking and yet it is going a lot easier so then we just do the same thing we're gonna bend over try to find that hole and get it Center to where and get the bolt in it okay there's one I'm gonna go ahead and lift this other side up and get it started to again shaking these things around a little bit can help get these bolts started and if one hole doesn't start well for you you can always try another one and usually if you can get it in the other one it'll help you pull it together where you need it so this one's being a little finicky on the side so we'll get her though I can get land up here here we go go ahead and put this one end like I said once you get one in it's easier to get the others in Plus these slots that I'm putting this in are kind of tight try out this hand so you don't have much wiggle room here to get these things started but we'll get it done as promised again it's easier to do this and you're not shooting video alright this was really giving me a time here there we go Lisa started even go ahead and get the other one started got one more to go get it done alright so there they are now it's just a matter of tightening everything up and we'll have this done now remember I can still move this back and forward or back and forth rather because of the slots here we can still raise the whole thing up Steve ain't gonna do that I'm sure doesn't tighten up any of these bolts under here too much here we go so yeah I can get a lot of you can see I can get a lot of vertical movement here which is great the more the merrier as far as I'm concerned because you get a correct seating position a lot of times you need a lot of room in the vertical instead of building some profiles on top of this and then mounting your pedals to get that level you need this will probably get you there I think right so there it is the pedal tray is assembled and now we can move on to yeah I guess we'll do the wheel base supports and mount next these are the profiles that we'll be using for our wheel base mount and of course these are the upright sections now these are 780 millimeters in length and they're 340 s so we call this a 40 by 120 or 40 120 and yeah it's just pieces of profile nothing special here no holes drilled in the ends because we don't need that and what we're going to use to attach these to the frame are these plates here and you'll notice that these plates have four counterbored holes in the middle and if we flip it around we can see that we have some more counterbored holes over here in the perimeter of this plate it's a little scratched up because I've been messing around with stuff and yeah so what I usually want to do here is these four inside holes are going to fit into two outside channels of this profile so I'm going to turn this around a little sitting it better look at that so you can see they line right up right so that's what I'm gonna do I'm gonna go ahead and put some tea nuts in here I'm just slide them in like this because well it's easy to do when it's laying flat and again I'm kind of paying attention to which way I'm orienting these little tea nuts here right so I don't want sticking out the edge where you can see them even though this is really gonna be a blindside and you know you're not ever gonna see it because it's going to be cinched up tight onto the sides of the base profile of the base frame that we've already built so I kind of get that in the general area and then I'll get my flat head screws or bolts these are inmates of course just like everything else now this is a five mil on the top here so I'm going to need my five mil driver to get this attached and it's pretty simply just kind of look straight down here and find out where your hole is and I usually use this to help me out a little so leave it loose obviously we want to tighten it up yet and then I can slide this back and forth it will to line up the other holes and then that was the easy one to find there and then I'll get the other two yeah that's pretty easy when it's laying on the bench you can prefab this or pre assemble it and then when we walk over and attach them to the sides of our profile itself now I'm gonna take this let me move this down a bit and move this bracket all the way to the end so it's sitting flush alright so this is going to give me when I mount it to the side of the base profiles with these holes here these four holes on the perimeter this is going to give me the maximum height for this wheel mount or the wheel base mount and that's what I want to start with if there's a reason I need to lower this then it's simple enough I have well actually it's not that simple because then I'm gonna have to pull the whole thing off and loosen these up and then slide it back and forth again and then tighten them back now and then put the whole thing back on not that big of a deal really but yeah I'd like to I usually start with the highest or the most material I can use as far as attaching anything when I start so I'll go ahead and torque these down and yeah it doesn't take much because these are flatly digging pretty good these flat head screws so now once I have that done go ahead and do my little circle pattern here maybe a little cross now we're tightly secured to this profile and now I'm gonna take this profile over to the base where we have the 41 60s with four of these grooves and mount it that way it's flat up against it so it's gonna look like this and this is our base profile going this way it's sitting flush against that profile so I'll do is assemble the other one just like I did this one and we come back we'll be over on the base of the profile or the cockpit rather using that we'll be attaching this to the base of the profile and see how all that goes alright now it's time to attach our upright for our wheel base support now I've already put some tea nuts in here and they're kind of oriented where I want them to be probably but it's easy enough to move this back and forth when I'm actually attaching it now again we have the bracket all the way at the end of this profile because I want the maximum reach I can get as far as height with this chassis so that even the tallest people should be able to use my wheel base we hope so without further ado let's go ahead and get this lined up and they can kind of sit it on the floor here to get it started and then I'm just gonna lean over and see where my hole is and I'm gonna put the top one in first our top ones in first place that's the idea and this is where the wrench comes in handy once you get a started you can just kind of put it in there pretty easily and if I'm not lined up I can actually push it this way or that way get things lined up very easy to do this of course if you're building your own cockpit p1 p1 X cockpit rather then if you come this far then ya you're used to it by now so you know how to wiggle things around to make them line up pull this one a little bit to get this one in there we go and one more that was that I gotta push it towards the back a little bit to get this one and again I'm pulling up and taking pressure off of these bolts as I'm putting them in you want to pull it up and take pressure off every chance you get alright so now we can actually pull this back here you guys can get a better look on the close-up here you know I'm just gonna kind of keep crusher pulling up on this as I'm hugging it up a bit and that's it pretty easy huh and of course I'm not sure where I'm gonna want this at this time but I'm gonna slide it back and forth when I get there and to think about when you slide this back and forth you want to loosen these up pretty loose so you can pick up on this part and kind of push I push outwards as I'm moving it as I'm sliding along because I don't want it to dig into the sides here right alright so all we got to do is get the other one attached and when we come back we'll have the other one attached and yeah see how it's looking just want to give you guys a little fly over here now that we have both of these wheelbase uprights mounted and you can see they're kind of it's hard to tell from this video obviously but they are lined up with each other of course I might change this later on but the next step is to mount the actual wheel base mount itself in between these two profiles and once we have that done then obviously we'll have a much better idea of where we want both of these to be yeah as far as in relation to where I'll be sitting and I might even have to tweak that once I get the seat done and my pedals in and all that stuff so yeah that's something that's going to be a work in progress but as you can see yeah we've come a long way we've got the assembly almost done once we get this wheel base mount installed then we'll just have the shifter mount and yeah this build will be over so we'll get to the wheel base mount next now it's time to get our wheel base bracket mounted and there's a couple of wheel brackets available from sim labs this is the what they call the front mount and this is good for like any of the SEM you cube Midge motors that you use with semi cube or a lens or whatever you're using the Bodnar Kollmorgen series this will fit all of those motors and they are front mount motors now they also make one for the fanatic direct drive wheel which is the podium series and DD one or DD two will fit though I'll show you a shot of that here I actually did a review on this not too long ago so you can go back in my videos and find that and that is a great mount also very solid mount when it comes to direct drive motors they put out a lot of torque at least most of them do and it's essential I think to have a very very stiff solid mount to mount those motors to not only because you don't want it moving around when you're using it but because if it does move around if there's any flex in your mount then it acts as a damper and that damper will moot our mute or Heather that moved mute the force feedback details that are coming from that motor so it doesn't let you feel everything that that motor is capable of delivering and when you have a nice stiff mount you definitely can tell the difference a good case for that is the fanatic review if you look at that I actually really liked what happened with that when I when I mounted that to that solid mount I headed on the sim labs flat mount before which is good now that's a good mount to not to take anything away from it for its purpose and that's for like the Logitech the thrust masters the fan of tech C SL elite wheel bases and the club sports they work that works pretty well for those no problems there but when you put a direct drive wheel on that flat plate and start in having higher torques and you start turning the wheel it actually flexes the plate will flex back and forth or up and down rather any flex acts as a damper and that's what that's definitely not what we want because we don't have g-force when we're simracing and we need all the details at least in my opinion that we can get to be able to tell what the car is doing and react in good time so back to these mounts here this is a very solid mount I've been running in a long time with my Kollmorgen and also whenever up is using a midge or the newer semi cube two motors and it works a treat very stiff you feel everything those motors can put out and again like I said before once I did that podium mount review it really increased what I felt from the notice in a noticeable amount from the Phanatic direct drive motor the outrunner now I'm gonna put put this together for you and show you how this is assembled I'm not sure which motor I'm actually gonna be running on this once I finally get it up and running but this is more of a build video than a setup video and yeah I've already done a setup video in the p1 so I think I'm not gonna do a build video I'll rather a setup video on this this one but anyway we also get these side brackets and these are 10 mil thick all right this over here is 15 mil thick so it's very heavy-duty and these side brackets have countersunk or counterbored holes so that we can put these flathead bolts in them like that and when we're moving this because this is gonna be attached to the side of this bracket here when this is all attached together we're it's going to be mounted against the insides of our wheelbase upright supports and this is going to keep it out of the way so we can adjust it like we need to right okay so this bracket is gonna fit right in here behind this one I'll just lay this one down give you example how this is gonna go together it goes together like this and we're gonna have a corner bracket which by the way is in this nice pack I'll show you the little front mount parts pack they gave us and this will fit in here like this and obviously we're gonna be rolling running our bolts from this side into the corner bracket now of course there's no we're not going to be using a tee nut in this assembly turn this around a little all right so we're not going to be using a tee nut but they do give us just kind of standing there I'm sure it's going to fall as soon as I breathe on it but they give us these m8 nylon safety or lock nuts if you will to have the nylon inserts in them so that grabs the threads and keeps it from vibrating loose so very nicely done and of course we'll just put one of those on there and I'm gonna actually show you me doing that in the next segment here but I just want to show you some of the parts they're gonna be involved here pretty much that's it they actually give us these really long m8 bolts and these can be used to mount your actual motor let's go ahead and take this off for it falls off so these are actually going to be used to go in here like this so you can mount your servo motor depending on which one it is in these groups here alright so all the parts you need to mount your motor are in here very cool that he actually went in and put these in here too because I really didn't have to a lot of times manufacturers leave you up to your own devices to find the right bolts for your motor right anything else we want to talk about here that's pretty it pretty much is the very simple assembly and when I come back I'm actually just gonna assemble one side so that we can see how that goes together and yeah move on from there I wanted to show you a just a quick look at how this these brackets mount the sign bracket smells pretty simple stuff here we have these flat head screws like we saw before our bolts in mates in this an m5 on the top of that alright in a simple matter of hanging the brackets on there now remember the brackets all come with these tabs in them there's a locating tabs that we've been discussing throughout this video so far and we're gonna have to break those off because we want them sitting flush and I've already got a couple of them done that way and you can see that they're broken off there and they're flat so they can sit flat against both plates this one and of course the side plate that we're going to mount in a minute now these flat head bolts there's two of two different sizes in the kit one is a 20 millimeter and the other is a 25 millimeter we got a little different sizes there and the reason is we have a 15 millimeter plate here and we have a 10 millimeter plate over here so we don't need is along a bolt to go through here to do the same thing as far as getting the nuts positioned correctly on the bolts with these nuts have to go down far enough to engage these nylon bits that are inserted in there or you might as well just have a regular nut on there right it doesn't do any good so I'm gonna do is put one of the long ones on the front plate just hang this bracket here like that alright let's turn it this way a little bit me see a little better and then I'm gonna take one of the nuts and just put it on there very simple actually right a whole lot to see here I'm just gonna let it hang there for now and then I'm going to come in and put another long one in on the bottom hole and I'm going to kind of slide my bracket on there like that it's kind of it'll just sit there on the on your bench as you're doing this or wherever you're doing it at then we'll go ahead and put our nut on there until we reach the nylon piece and then you obviously you can't turn it any more now I'm gonna leave it loose like this and then I'm gonna come over and put my side plate against it let's make sure you get the right one we want this on the bottom so our countersunk holes have to be over on this side to do this now one thing is actually I'm going to turn this over this way after ii thought this plate sits on top of the 15 mil plate so it's flush these edges should be flush when you're done right in here this should be nice and flush like that so keeping that in mind i'm just gonna set it there loose let it stand there for a second right there and i pushed it back and forth so I can get my holes lined up on the other side and now I can use my 20 millimeter flathead bolt to go in the other side I'm gonna kind of slide this out a little bit there's gonna be it's a little bit tricky here and the reason is we've got two bolts sticking in here alright if I tilt this up it'll let those bolts fall back out a little bit so I have a little more clearance and I'm also gonna slab this thing out show you a little better here I'm sliding it out to the limits of the slots and these brackets so it gives me more room to get a nut on that see that bolt sticking through again I need some more room to get this nut on there so I'm just kind of kind of and that's why you have it real loose at first so I'll go ahead and get that started easy enough really once you see it done it is a little fiddly obviously but nothing we can't handle here at the srg well at least most of the time and yeah you can pick it up so you can locate this bolt thread a boat away from this as far as you can on the assembly process now once we have this these started and then we're gonna have to make sure that this piece here and we're putting on is flush with this seam or the the edge that we have on this big bracket this 15 millimeter bracket so the idea is to get it like this I don't know how straight that's gonna be want to show you but yeah you guys get the idea here because this is going to give it the 500 millimeter width that we need actually five it's bigger than 500 millimeters 580 plus 10 it's like 600 millimeters because of the spacers and the way the uprights are sitting on that p1x frame over there so now we got everything kind of loosely assembled it's just a matter of tightening things up and yeah you're gonna have to mess around with this a little bit yeah you can pull things as loose you can you can tighten one side and even one side out of the way as you're tightening one and then go in for the other which is probably how I'm gonna but we got to end up with it sitting on the bottom here so what I'm gonna do is kind of hang this off the edge you guys can see this is when I here let it sit there for a second now I have a 13 mil wrench obviously I'm gonna need that for my nuts now also have a socket because I wasn't sure what I was gonna need or what I was gonna end up doing here and I have my five millimeter where a wrench okay and I'm just gonna start this by again finding my my flush spot here with it hanging off a gas can see what I'm doing here and then I'll see where this bolt is and where it needs to be and I can see now I'm not gonna be able to use a socket on this boat in here because it's just too far this way too far that way for me to be able to do it so it's gonna have to be a wrench and the wrench works fine it slides right in there there's enough room in this bracket to do that I just got to find my 5 mil oh here on the bolt just like that here we go and now I'll just obviously start tightening things up I'm trying to get it far enough so I can just spin it around it's the kind of fiddly edge as you can imagine I just need to Snug it up a little bit I'm not gonna get it real tight just want to bring it down flat to where it's sitting and not wiggling around too much but still giving me enough room to adjust make minor adjustments as I'm moving along here so there we go that's the that's too tight I'm gonna loosen up a little bit so I can still move it around a little there we go all right so I can still move this around and that's what I wanted I'm gonna do the same thing to the other one underneath again give him a mouth itself enough room here actually I probably should be using my power trench over there it's the doing it with this handpiece but most people aren't going to be using a power wrench in this again it's just to get things tightened up a little bit so it doesn't move around on me while I'm trying to make my final tune this thing as I tighten it down again can be a little fiddly especially when you drop your wrench that's not constructive or helpful at all there I hope you guys are enjoying watching this but you know when you're assembling things you know this is the way it goes things can be a little fiddly and not go the way you want them do it first all right so now I have the brackets on here and that's enough for me to still move this thing around there so I can now start tightening up the guys over here and I am going to tire fiddling with that I'm gonna go ahead and use my the power machine because it just makes things a little easier when you're trying to take up a lot of slack in a bolt now still have enough room to get down inside of here on this nut and then obviously I'm just going to make some noise here so bear with me okay yeah we'll go ahead and get the other one I don't wanna get it too tight so I just want to stopped I just want to Snug things up here now we're getting to the fine-tuned part and that's where we want to make sure that again that I'm flush with the edge of this 15 millimeter bracket here so I'm just going to kind of watch that as I you know I don't know why you guys gonna be able to see this while I'm doing it but I'm watching that as I'm gonna start tightening down this is what I'm gonna use the manual because the power1 just does it too fast and it probably jump around on me and yeah it won't end up well it's much easier to have control when you have one of these on there so I'll just watch this edge here I'm kind of pushing it around watching it and making sure that I get that thing flush again can be a little fiddly but what isn't these days when we're building something all right now also another thing you can do here a little trick that I do is get it kind of tight not real tight but just kind of tight okay it's really even if you guys can even figure out what that means and if it's not too tight I can take my nylon mallet if it's not perfectly land up here with this edge all right if it's not perfect I can feel a little bit proud here on this bracket compared to the edge of this so I'll take my nylon mallet here and remember I haven't finished tighten it down all the way yet and just give it a little tap until it feels the same all the way down a little bit more yeah see that feels right to me and this is something that just gonna have to do you know trial and error now I can go in and really cinch it down on this and the other two bolts over here on the side are not going to matter at this point because this one won't be so tight they'll just follow it along I can get it back in there and there it is so now go ahead and tighten this again watching it I shouldn't move now there we go that's looking pretty good there I like what I'm seeing although again kind of bland underneath here when you're reaching for that bolt here we go right so now this is pretty tight even though I haven't got these guys on the outside racket tight yet it's things are still wiggling around a little bit so but the important thing here is I've now got it flush well you can see that so it's nice and flush with this edge so now that wheel upright bracket can come up here and snug up against it when we when we put our bolts in here to tighten it to the actual uprights and there won't be any interference here nice can clean you know they with the counter sunk holes yeah very nice the fact I'm gonna go ahead and tighten these other two up before I forget because I've been known to do that because I'm moving on to something else and I forget oh yeah by the way we don't have these all the way tight yet and then you find out when you're using your direct drive wheel there yeah that's feeling pretty good there a bit more here there we go now we're done well not really done I got to do the other side but still this is what you should end up with and actually I'm a little bit look at that see that if you can see that I'm actually a little bit more of a gap here than I am there so this thing kind of moved on me when I tighten it up so this is kind of stuff you want to look for when you're putting this together now the thing is I can loosen this up just a little and then I'll go back with my mallet and make the adjustment I'm just gonna loosen this one because that's where my gap is so we're gonna loosen that just a little there and then I'm going to take the nylon mallet and just watch the edge here there goes sweet alright and again this is just part of the process it's not that complicated I mean if I can do it anybody can do it so yeah let's go ahead and tighten that back up now and I'm watching to make sure it doesn't pull back up I don't think it will there we go now we're good yes so now see that we've got a nice straight edge across there and we're nice and flush with the side this is what you want when you build these brackets all right so yeah you can see it really didn't take that much effort it was a little fiddly but it's even a little more fiddly because I'm shooting video and yeah how that goes so there we have it now I'm gonna go ahead obviously a mount the other one on and when we come back we'll be putting it on the actual rigged uprights so there's a couple of ways to do this obviously don't have to do it the way I do it and right now I'm going to show you with a low motor mounted typically I will mount my servo motor to this bracket before I slip it in and it's it's a bit finicky or fiddly rather as you might imagine you're over here you got the heavy motor in here and yeah it's not the easiest thing to do but I've got a system that I've kind of developed because I do it a lot as you know other reviews I do so you can also not mount it in which I'm going to show you here and that means are going to have to mount the servo after you have it mounted to your uprights here and that presents its own problems if it because most servos just have a hole in the flange and you have to insert the bolt then get the nut on it while you're trying to hold the motor and you almost need three hands to do that you almost three three hands will do this but it's a little bit I just found it for me personally it's a little bit easier to mount the motor first unless you have one of the new SIM you cube two motors because they're actually the flanges on those are actually threaded which is nice because then you can just hold it up there and run the bolts in but still you know you're holding up a heavy motor while you're trying to do that so let me give you a close-up here what I have as far as the arrangement here I have three bolts in here obviously with three tea nuts that are going down the channels and I will because this is a three channel they say forty by one 60 or 120 rather then I'm going to have this guy in the middle channel I'll have one down here in the forward Channel and one in the back like this alright so that's my plan of attack to get these in there and also you don't want to put these bolts because these bolts are kind of short you know it's it's a I've actually have some custom bolts not custom bolts but other bolts that are longer that I use in my everyday rig because it's just a little easier for me but I had put some washers in to get the spacing correct so it wouldn't bottom out the bolt doesn't bottom out in the channel which is very important before you tighten up that T nut and then it's worthless using it that way but you can still use these but I found that if I you can see they're not very far in sale not very far into the t-nut maybe one two turns and that usually gives you enough room to get in the channel but it's still a little fiddly and only one in two turns if you're messing around with it sometimes they can flip around a couple times on you on the other side or something one falls off and of course that's ruining your day you're trying to get this mounted can be a little fiddly but most people almost 99.9 percent of you guys who are mounting these aren't gonna be taking them off very often unlike me so let's go over here and another thing to make sure obviously something that should be obvious but make sure that both of these uprights are the exact same distance from the ends of your copy over here because obviously they need to be even with each other to make this work I also leave them loose when I'm putting this on I don't tighten them down alright so I got some some play room if you will and probably want another very important thing is the rinse you're going to use make sure it's handy and you can get to it which actually that my jeans are catching on the rubbery part so I'm gonna do it like this and you really have in my front pocket there we go so I can get to it while I'm get my hands full and I'm leaning on stuff so get to it easily just start tightening things up right so now further ado let's get this done now the first again I'm using the two bottoms here I'm gonna put it in the front in the rear and then we're gonna let the center one right here follow into the center channel and you have to kind of rotate back and forth and kind of get them pretty located and I kind of tilt it back to do that so they don't slide around too much on me so I typically get one sat in start one there start one over here and I'll go over here and of course you can it's easy to pull them back out of this side while you're over here fiddling with this set so again it's just a kind of a bit of a dance here to get this done you didn't want to drop in okay so now I'm gonna try to get these guys in but you see that went down so far it's hard to get it so I'm going to kind of pull this in and I'm using my hand over here to just slide it down in there again I don't have good video shot of this for you guys but you get the idea what I'm doing okay so now the two bottom ones are in ah we're good so now I'm going to reposition the center ones so they're kind of where they need to be as I'm going down gently lower it down now I got my Center one in the right place there and now get the center one in the right place here and of course having a motor mounted this kind of makes it more interesting if it's too tight you can always reach in with your finger and you know just kind of loosen one of them up and get it a slide down and I'm gonna leave it right about there towards the top I'm gonna have my tilt I've barely gonna have any tilt on this now I can get in get my wrench and make sure I'm even and running them in and kind of I'm not gonna get them real tight yet I'm just gonna snug them up so it won't move on me so yeah you can't see this part but that's what I'm doing okay so actually that one went easier than I thought it would alright so and of course the the the act of tightening these bolts up brings these back in right so where the in fact you can they're a lot tighter than they were because now we're we've got them snugged up a little bit here now of course you can't forget to come back down on the sides here and tighten up those recessed or countersunk flathead bolts once you're done up here and then you go around again and tighten everything up again but there we have it now you can bring in your motor and mount it or if my motor was already on there then I'm done except for tightening everything back up so there it is yeah and again this once this is tightened down all the way this one or the the one for the podium series from fanatic it is just a rock-solid mount now I'll tell you it's it's something to behold if you've never been driving on one of the direct drive wheels when it's mounted like that right so yeah the only thing left to do now is get to the shifter mount now let's take a look at the shifter mount system that P that sim labs uses on their p1 X so basically what we have is a 40 eighty piece of profile here which is the right that runs along the side of the length of the carpet and this is 580 millimeters long this over here is the upright support that will be this will be sitting on like this alright and this is 320 ml long now they also throw in a couple of pieces which is nice of them of 200 millimeter 40 profiles and typically that'll be used for mounting our shifter we'll take a look at that in a minute alright so this is very easy to do I'm gonna do this upside down so you guys can see it better but this piece here is just gonna sit perpendicular to the lengthwise crossing profile here and we're just gonna put a couple of corner brackets in here and because we have matching channels we don't have to snap the tabs off and they'll fit in there just like that then we can take a couple more and this is going to be going to the front and this is going to mount directly to the front edge of the 4120 profile that is serving the wheel base support as far as the upright and this is gonna fit there like this and this one will fit underneath like this oops you're right way Barry ah sometimes you wonder why you can't get it right it's upside-down this way so we have two of these here and of course it's very simple thing of putting in the tutee nuts in the upright profile and a couple more tea nuts on this one and this one and then just bolt it all together and there you go same with this very simple thing we put in our tea nuts and we both that down they do have now because remember that wheel upright if you remember when we did that there is a spacer the plate they use to mount that to the side of the 4160 profiles is a ten millimeter thick attachment bracket alright so because of that if we don't this is going to be mounted this long piece is going to be offset ten millimeters from the actual bottom profile because of where it's going to bolt to the front over that wheel upright okay we're wheel base support upright so if we just put this on here like that this would be kind of flapping in the wind we'd have a ten millimeter gap on this one so they include this bracket here as part of the mounting process and yeah this is a counter border countersunk hole on the middle and we got two more on the other side this is ten millimeters thick so of course what we do here is we go ahead and throw this in here up right here and we'll take our flat head screw because remember we want this to go into this counter sunk portion and now go ahead and put that on real quick just so we can take a look at what how this thing comes together here and this you want to make sure why you're doing this ending on where you want it of course you neither just this backer for it back and forth as far as where the height is of this so this is let's this allows us for this bar to go up and down so we can adjust the height of our shifter or handbrake whatever put no in here but as we go up and down we also need to go up and down with this bracket now we have four channels on a 4160 side profile so we don't have to move it too much probably to get it once you get to high thright then you'll go in and fix this to where you want it so it will match the channel one of the channels of the four on that 160 I'm gonna put it down here just for using según you want to make sure when you put it in there that is perpendicular right so we want this to be nice and square perpendicular to the upright here right so now once we find the right height and this is a simulated 4160 but it's only 40 80 but again we have two channels here that we can actually pick to put this put some tea nuts in to a fix these holes right so these holes are actually going to be holding this onto the side of our base profiles which are the 41 60s simple right so the only thing is you have to make sure you adjust this part right so it fits and if you're going to change the the level of your shifter or handbrake at any time then you're gonna have to pull this off to get to this what I call the blind bolt that you can't see all right but it's they're holding everything nice and tight so that's the only thing again most people 99% of the people out there have a p1 aren't gonna you know no big deal they don't change the height of their shifter or their handbrake stuff very much someone like me though I'm always changing it right because I'm doing videos and reviewing all kinds of stuff so yeah this works fine and you got to have this space though you gotta have the spacer but I have other solutions and again profile is like the unlimited solution provider for no matter what the problem you have or what you're trying to achieve with it you can get it done but this certainly looks nice and matches the the black and the coarse the texture and everything the thickness of the brackets on the wheel upright supports are the wheelbase uprights of course so easy enough that'll go in there like that and yeah see what else we got now when you're going to mount your shift dress get this out of the way you can you know manufacture your own plate and mount it on this or mount it from the side or whatever you want to do but they did give us these nice 200 millimeter pieces of profile here and I'm going to this is typically the way I would set this up now I can move these sideways right if it's something over here like my seats too close to this I can actually move this out as long as I still have enough area here to match the flange on my shipper okay this is this is not gonna work right flying everywhere all right so I would typically mount these with some angle brackets I've put one here I put one over here all right but we're gonna have to take the tabs off of these because remember we got some crossing channels here and this that's just the way it works it doesn't matter if I met it down here I would still have a crossing channel problem so I put it here and it you can see it's not high enough to interfere with whatever you put on the top here even if you just put another plate on top and then I put a couple more here and here with this one here yeah so then we'll have a set up it looks like that alright now again I can actually move these if I have interference or even cut them down if you want to of me if you have a custom set up with a shifter or something and you're not gonna need that much length and take them out to your chop saw and cut them off then we'll move this over if I need to of course I can only move it so far depending on the width of the flange of the shifter I'm putting on here so you need to demonstrate that I'll put my very carefully I'll put my prosím shifter up here this is a coif prosím right sequential very cool shifter and I'll put that here it's a little bit short so I'll just move this in a little there we go and get it centered so it doesn't fall off alright so actually I could cut this off both of these sides of this ordinate mob easily just one side so it fit the flange width here so I don't have all this excess sticking out you know just dress it up a little bit or if you're gonna be changing stuff a lot you might want to leave them there but if you got an interference over here I can actually bring them over as long as I have enough room left for the flange on this side right because if I took it too far I wouldn't have that so then bolt everything down bolt this to down here remember we've got some nice six mill nuts in here the whole bag of them the six mill in five mill tea nuts and bolts so you can go down and this actually takes a six mill this flange here and once you have all this bolted down I'm not worried about so much it twisting because it won't twist anyway once you have it bolted down solidly and really and we're not putting a twisting motion on a sequential shifter maybe a little bit of lateral motion on an H pattern shifter but not that much to matter really I don't think because I use it this way on my H pattern - I never had a problem the important part I think is that you need to make sure can you do it without dumping it all off all right so when we're shifting a sequential especially if sequential we're hammering it back and forth so that's where the pressure is on this bar right in the front of the bar up here is hooked up to the wheel base support upright so no problem there in the back of it we have the bottom piece here this firmly attached underneath it so everything's good there now we're everything where the forces are in that direction back and forth is well support its best especially obviously with two corner brackets on each one of these parts you probably get away with one if you're not you know really caressed it but I like to put two on there because I like to slam things pretty hard sometimes I I don't know why I just do and yeah so again do it the way you want to but this is this is just showing you one way to do it now what we're gonna do is go ahead and mount it onto the rig and when we get back we'll walk over to the rig and do a flyby there and see how I end up mounted up I'm mounting it up rather now we can take a look at the shifter mount none of this mounted and you can see down here we have the spacer unit installed and like I said you see how that sticking out 10 millimeters because over here we also have ten millimeter sticking out and we have the two angle brackets our corner brackets rather holding the front piece on and we've got the two holding the back piece on so if I ever have to adjust this up or down then it's a matter of here's two ways you can do it the easiest way would be to hopefully your adjustment would be the distance between these two channels here and then you wouldn't have to worry about this as the whole thing moves up you just put your peanuts in there and then bolt it in you're good to go or lower one one groove that's one good thing about this well there's many good things about this 41 safety profile the heavy duty unit here but yeah it's got plenty of channels for you to do that but then again if you're a perfect height for your shifter is just in between those channels then you're gonna have to pull this off again and readjust this part to the right height so it matches one of these channels not too hard to do like I said it's just like anything else with a t20 once you do it a few times you get used to it so yes looking good there in a very solid unit and course because we have this mounted in the longitudinal direction here on this platform or the chassis is going to be very very sturdy I can attest to that I've been using mine for years my p1 and yeah it's it's really a a very solid mount for all kinds of shifters or hand brakes combinations right so now that's done we can just do we'll get to a final look at this well I guess I'll just do a fun final fly bow and everything talk about it and then we'll get to our final thoughts so now for a look at the finished cockpit and yeah everything went together as you guys saw if you were following along everything went together just perfectly and you can see I've got the caps installed now again that's just a put the caps on sometimes you have to tap them in with a mallet or something you know our seat rails are pretty much where I need them to be for mounting a seat to and yeah so we're just gonna walk around here and see what the final product looks like very sturdy unit as we know the p1 to be and you know what I like about this is that sim labs only made improvement where they really felt that there could be an improvement made and that was in this pedal tray right here in this pedal tray as you can see I have the 4160 towards the front but you can mount this any way you want to you can turn this whole thing around 180 degrees in fact I think on their site they have a picture of it that way it just doesn't matter depends on what your own personal needs and wants are gonna be now I have a short leg so that's why I have it oriented this way so with longer legs might want to flip it around go the other way but again that's what's great about this profile there's no one way no no one way is the right way you can just do it any way you want to this wheelbase support is just legendary of how stiff this is I mean you can this thing is just nothing gets this stiff as the p1 wheelbase support now from what I've seen on the losing Veldman is probably incomparable stiffness I would imagine but yeah these are that would be the only one that would be about as stiff as this is because this is just rock-solid and it gives you such a great feeling when you're using a direct drive force feedback servo motor when it's bolted that or again like I said before if you have a podium you could use their mount and yeah it's just a lot stiffer than the actual flat or wheelbase mount that we would use for light logitech's thrust masters and you know what the cool thing was I was on the site looking around and the price did not change depending on which wheel mount I chose so front facing was the same price as the podium Series one as was the regular what they call wheel tech plate so yeah looking good in black and I got the covers on where I wanted to put them again how you should don't put them in some places where you're not going to be able to see em once everything's mounted up but again that's personal preference and you can do it any way you want so yeah I hope you guys were able to pick up some tips and yeah you can see how just easy this is to build once you just know how the t nuts and the bolts work on this system you have pretty simple stuff really and it's just so versatile and just like I said sitting on a granite you're in these chassis right so we just get on to the final thoughts final thoughts on the sim laughs p1 cockpit KITT I've been using the p1 cockpit for almost two years now and has yet to fail me in any way so when I heard that sim lab was going to bring out an updated p1 now called the p1 X I was the first concerned that some of the changes that would bring to the table would not be to my liking but when I saw the p1 X was essentially going to be a p1 with a new pedal tray configuration I breathed the sigh of relief as too many manufacturers change things that already work great and the result is actually less than what we had before my p1 X kit was delivered in what I consider to be as good a packaging solution that one can use to minimize the potential for damage of course when shipping such heavy materials there's always the possibility that damage can occur if not handled properly the p1 X kit I received had all the required hardware to complete the assembly process so no last-minute trips to the hardware store to source some missing bolts or screws I think once you become familiar with the way that the fastening system works with aluminium profile you won't want to construct a cockpit in any other way I can't think of a more easier or versatile material to use here as most of you know I am constantly changing things on my cockpit to accommodate various review material and my former p1 and now the new p1 X certainly shine in this respect the new pedal tray that the p1 exports is a very heavy duty unit and it finally gives us the ability to raise the pedal tray to different heights ensuring you can get a proper ergonomic seating position if only other cockpit manufacturers would take notice of this much needed but mostly missing pedal tray feature the wheel base mount solutions offered by simlab cover any of the existing wheel bases currently on the market and the direct drive wheel mounts offered by stem lab are rock solid solutions that in my opinion are essential to realizing all the fine details your direct drive wheel base is capable of delivering now buying a profile cockpit rather in kit form it's not the only way to go when looking to an aluminum extrusion cockpit but I have to say it is a great way to go when you want to minimize the drama of sourcing all the hardware and fastener bits you're going to need and the sim lab p1x kit will make your life much easier in that regard as everything you need is in a kit that is delivered to your door now the simile of p1 and now the p1 XR the compass to have if you in a rock-solid solution as far as the platform you're using for racing and you wanted to customize it to your own personal requirements and I'm not the only one who thinks this apparently because there's currently a three week waiting list before your cockpit can be shipped I'm Barry Rowland thanks again for watching the simracing garage channel don't forget to hit the subscribe button and if you would like to help support what I do here at the srg visit my website at sim racing garage comm

Channel: Sim Racing Garage

Views: 146,636

Rating: 4.951714 out of 5

Keywords: sim racing, racing, assetto corsa, inside sim racing, iracing, sim racing girl, sim racing cockpit, gaming, fanatec, simulator, online racing, racing simulator, simracing, forza, rfactor, thrustmaster, racing wheel, simulation, logitech, vr, f1, gran turismo, shifter, simxperience, HPP, Heusinkveld, Sim Lab, Logitech, racing pedals, motion simulator, PS4, XBOX, Xero Play, computer racing, IMSA, WEC, gamer, nascar, scca, triple monitor, oculus, racing seat, sparco, momo, D-BOX, bodnar

Id: NePNyCguqSk

Length: 98min 15sec (5895 seconds)

Published: Fri Nov 15 2019