SIDE Part with SHORTER Layers Tutorial #shorterlayers #movement

hey everyone welcome to my channel i am summer today we are going to be doing another haircut tutorial and i'm going to be showing you guys how i create my shorter layered haircuts i did this similar video back last year in december and i've had so many people in the comments asked me how would you do it on a side part what do you do different with a side part because i had done the video down the middle so i'm going to go ahead and show you guys how to do it with a side part you do have to change a little bit of your angles differently in the front while cutting so i thought it would be a great way to explain all that to you and i'll touch on a couple other things that people have often asked me in all the comments on that video so let's get started okay so i have her sectioned off just separating the front from the back i'm not going to be cutting her perimeter just because that's not as important in this video i'm going to mostly just i'll be focusing on the layers how i get the shorter pieces in the back and then i'm going to be doing some nice face framing in the front so we're just going to go ahead and get started so i like to start right in the middle and i'll just come in and separate push this forward if you want to clip it you can but i usually just push it over their shoulders and then we're gonna start cutting our layers so i always say to flip your comb back and forth i like the fine side of my comb to kind of go on the top and then i'll flip it to come on the bottom too so we're getting nice even tension and we're gonna bring that out let our bottom piece fall and we're going to see our guide here and we're going to cut then we're going to come up fine side of that comb pull up meet your guide we're going to work all our way up to the top so i cut it kind of almost like a regular layer at first and when i get to the very top is when i angle my hands in to twist and cut it shorter on the top okay so we have our top part cut here and then to really overextend and shorten that up i'm going to pull this straight up and i'm going to twist my fingers so that bottom part of her section falls out and then we're just going to come in at an angle with your scissors and cut into that and then we're going to let that fall and that piece is falling just nice and short i like with my shorter layers to still see a little bit of bend in the hair so that way when you're blow drying them you're going to get that lift and movement so i like to use that kind of in my mind as my guide you can start off cutting this top piece first if you want but i've never preferred to do it that way plenty of people do um this is the way that i've always done it it has worked for me thus far so we're going to come in and take our next section and then we're just going to push that hair out of the way and we're going to do the same steps so we're going to do our next section here and remember the fine side of that comb on the bottom part to pull nice and tight we're going to bring it out let that fall i can see my guide here and cut and then bring it up cut you can see all that hair that i need to cut there my guide cut into it and then again we're all the way here at that top so we're going to come up and twist your hands that hair is falling out and we can see a little bit of this guide that's left out to cut all right and then we're just going to keep moving on throughout the sides of her head rounding out and then taking another piece from that section prior so i also get a lot of comments on that original shorter layer video of people saying is this great is this good for fine hair types and it all kind of is personal preference finer hair types there's a big difference between fine hair type and thin a lot of times those two things do go hand in hand but for the shorter layered look you do have to adjust how you do the layers you might not cut into it quite as much as you do with let's say somebody with medium texture such as this mannequin or very coarse thick hair i do have a video i will link in my description below where i show the difference and how you would adjust your shorter layers for somebody with finer thin hair i do half of the head where i show the way that i do it and then half of the head where i show what happens when you don't adjust and how you can create those holes and again remember when you're getting to that very top piece is when you want to really twist those hands because that is how you're creating that shorter layer throughout the top and then we're coming out to this side of her head so we're going to pull it straight out from the side of her head you don't want to be going back with it when you're moving along the head you want to be pulling straight out from each section that you're working on again flip that comb to the finer side pull nice and tight let that bottom fall out and cut [Music] and as you go around the head you can start seeing kind of the shape a little bit more and you might find that you'll start twisting ever so slightly sooner you just want to make sure you're taking small enough sections that way you can easily see your guide you're not over cutting that's how you're going to end up taking too much at a time as if your sections are too big and then if you lose your guide that's how you can result in unevenness a lot of times so now we're coming into this other side and we're going to take our section again push that hair forward over your client's shoulder if need be or you can simply cut it out of the way fine side of the comb pull out and you're just going to keep doing the same steps through this other side of the head working your way around again getting to that top and you're twisting so i think actually this mannequin i'm working on right now has a little bit longer length than um the mannequin's hair was in my first video so that'll be interesting to see it afterwards the shorter pieces how short you want to take it all depends on how comfortable your client is with it like i said i at least try to make sure there's enough bend with that shorter piece on the top but i would say if their hair is super super long you want to make sure that the layers are flowing with the length of the hair so if you go too short with the layers and their hair is super long you're going to get that whole mullet look which is fine if that's what your client is wanting but if they don't want that you need to either bring the length up or adjust the layers and again we're moving with the head so i'm coming more at a straight out here rather than pulling back if you're pulling back towards you like if you're not going to move with your client if you're pulling back towards you you are not going to get as short of a layer so you want to make sure that you're moving with the head as you go around pulling out in the areas the correct way and into these side corners is where you kind of start noticing that twist a little bit more rather than in the middle [Music] and then we've got our last piece here on the back and then i'll show you guys how i go about my kind of cross checking while it's still wet before moving into the front sides okay so now that i have her back cut what i like to do before cross-checking is i will re-spray the hair down anywhere that it needs it i like to keep the hair pretty damp you don't want to get it too dry i just feel like it leads to a little bit of unevenness so make sure if you need to spray down your clients hair while you're cutting do that it's very i don't know once it starts getting dry i feel like it lays different as far as the evenness of the hair so to go in and cross check it we're basically going to do sort of the same steps but i'll kind of angle my hands a little bit different in spots so again we're just going to split that hair in the middle pushing the pieces over the shoulder to get them out of the way or like i said before you can clip but we're just going to come out again i like to flip my comb we're going to bring it and i'm just going to slightly lightly twist and you can wait to do this until after you've got the hair dried i just like to kind of go in if you have watched any of my cutting tutorials i'm so big on dry cutting i dry cut all the time you can never do enough dry cutting in my opinion some people might disagree with that but i just think it's important the hair lays completely different once it's dry versus wet and you really get to kind of see how it's falling everywhere especially if you know your client do they like to wear it really straight do they like to wear it more messy so i'm just basically going through here you don't have to be as precise with your sections here and like i said i'll just slightly twist my hands a little bit more while moving through one of the reasons why i choose to do this after the fact is for one if the clients let's say has all one length here and they have no layers i feel like almost going in and cutting it the way i did the first time kind of takes out some of that bulk and that length and it makes it easier to go in and see if there's any extra little bit to cut and then there's a little less of it to clean up if that makes sense and then again still flip that comb around if you want for this um like i said it's not quite as tedious back here because you've already cut the bulk we're sort of just kind of going through and kind of shaping up maybe any pieces that got left out and so to show you guys more i'll come in and sort of start twisting at the bottom instead that still falls out and then just your little hairs that are kind of poking out that's what i'm cutting with this cross checking [Music] [Music] so all that hair fell out and we have just this little bit here okay so and then before moving on to her sides what i'll do is i'll come in right on the top part of her head and i'm just going to bring all this hair straight up and then i can see i'm a little bit longer right in here this corner that's on my right side and i'm just gonna snip it so we're gonna move into our sides now and we're just gonna bring everything straight down and for the sides i almost at first still cut kind of like i'm doing long layers so to speak i'll angle my hand still but i don't like to maybe cut so much in on the bottom part because sometimes you get a little hole in the hair and then depending on if the client wants um base framing in the front which i will do here you're gonna cut into it then anyways so i will still with my sides kind of bring everything back like i said as if i'm cutting more of a long layer okay so we're just gonna comb down and we're gonna take our first piece here and like i said i don't like to just come out and cut right away i let the bottom really fall out well and then even after that i'm going to come in and sort of twist my hands as i pull up so i can see my guide is right in here so i've got an angle here with my hands and cut again we're gonna go back twist got my guide there cut twist cut out those little hairs and again the reason why i like to be a little easier at first with my sides is because even if somebody has like that medium texture thick hair most times the sides on people are a little thinner naturally so i don't like to really go in and cut the sides until i've seen it a little bit more on the dry side and how it's falling because you don't want to create any sort of hole that is about like the worst thing you can do with a haircut and once you've cut it it's kind of there and it's over so that's why i like to be a little bit um more conservative with my side layers at first so again we're gonna come out pulling it back away from the face while twisting we can see our guide is poking through right there i'm gonna twist and let out that whole bottom section so we're keeping our perimeter thick especially if they're on the thinner side and then cut my top layer here and then we're going to keep coming pulling back and twisting let that bottom piece fall cut and then i'm going to come down just grab a little bit of hair bring it back twisting a little that's lining up nicely we've got this little guy here sticking out and then because we're doing face framing i'm actually gonna leave her sides for now and come in and cut that at the end after i get this other side done so we're gonna let this other side fall out again remember spray it if you need to and we're just going to do the same thing we're going to start with our first section push this hair towards the face get it out of the way and again we're pulling everything back away from the face so if you're standing where i'm at you're going to pull it back towards you again use that fine side of that comb for a little bit more tension pull it back twist that whole bottom is falling out actually i'm going to twist her a little bit more just because we're kind of in this space here right behind the ear is typically where if a hole is going to happen that's where it's going to happen so i'm going to over direct this up even more to let that fall and then cut we're gonna grab our next section here push this out of the way we're gonna pull back away from the face while twisting this is falling out keep an angle in your fingers and cut okay and then i'm just going through ever so slightly pulling it up seeing if any pieces are poking out and cutting where need be okay so now that we are done with the sides for now and i'm about to put in my face framing what i like to do first is sort of cross check this top side layer so this is where the difference starts with doing it on a side part versus the middle if it's the middle you're just bringing everything completely straight up but because we're parting the hair over on the head you're going to bring your part that you're checking over and put it center of the part line and then you're going to cut anything that's left out so this is matching up pretty nice if you guys can see that where if i bring it just completely straight up it looks like she is longer on this left side but when you adjust your angle to be centered with that part it matches up much better with just literally one little hair that needs to be cut so that's where you'd really adjust you can cut down the middle and everything typically blends but if you have a side parter who always parts on the side or you always wear your hair on the side cut it down the side and then like i said you're just gonna center to where that part is rather than centering it on the middle of the head so we're just going to come in now and do the face framing and face framing that's all with shorter layers i feel like people typically like to see a decent amount of face framing they want almost sort of like a side swept bang especially if they have the side part so we're just going to bring this hair down [Music] and i'm going to part her right along her ear so we're parting right behind the ear essentially the mannequin's ear is in an odd spot and then i'm going to actually clip this from the back just because i want to keep things nice and even i'm going to do the same on this other side again so we're going right at this ear and we're going to clip this back section out of the way and then i'm going to respray she's a little dry here and we're going to start with our face framing okay we're going to come in and do our face framing now i'm basically wanting to keep her shortest piece kind of in her this section between her mouth and her nose and then i'm just going to grab the first piece here and i'm going to pull it down if you pull with a lot of tension go a little bit longer than where you want to see it lay just because you're pulling it it's going to shrink up a little bit when you let up on that tension so i'm coming in i'm going to angle my fingers down i'm going to come in with an angle with my scissors and i'm going to glide down so now that i've sort of made my guide i'm just gonna come in and take the hair and i'm just gonna glide my scissors down away from her face [Applause] and then we're just going to keep bringing this hair forward to meet where you're working with so i'm going to come in kind of curve my scissors i can see the hair starting here bring my scissors over my fingers here and cut and then you can also bring the hair forward and kind of come up from the bottom to meet your guide once you get to a certain point i feel like it's a little bit easier than trying to keep angling and extend your hands going twist my hands down come up from that bottom and i kind of twist my scissors almost and then cut up into it the reason why i twist is i feel like it keeps that angle in line and then again come from this back bring it down and cut up we've got a very nice framing going so now that we have this one side done we're going to blend in this other side now and to match that i'm going to take this first piece and i'm going to comb down and see where they match here so i can see my guide right in there and i'm just basically gonna visually see it and angle my hands up with my scissors and cut and that blends that in really nice actually i'm gonna push this out of the way and then we're going to do the same things pull a little bit at a time i don't like to take this whole section and try to just do it in one swoop because if you cut too much again it's done it's over with so just take a little bit at a time if you're comfortable with taking it all and you feel like you're gonna kill it and do a good job do that but it's better if you're starting out or doing on yourself take a little at a time okay so we're gonna come in pull down we see our guide here and we're just gonna sliver our scissors down take your next section keep those hands angled see your guide and cut we're just going to keep taking our hair i'm going to take this last piece and again you can come up from the bottom if you want if it's a little bit easier to see and let that fall okay so now that we've got both sides of the face framing done what i like to do to check the layers on the side so to check these front face framing pieces what i like to do is i bring everything from this side section i'm going to bring it completely forward and twist and cut out any little bit that is left out so right here we've got a little piece that's left out this is the way that i like to start my cross checking for the face framing i always find that it just blends everything in very well and keeps it even so again we're going to twist and again it's cutting into those layers a little bit more on the side so we've got just a little bit of hair poking out here and we're gonna come all the way to her very front piece again going out away from her face in front of her face twist and cut those pieces out of the top and then the last step i like to do for my face framing i'm going to take my section i'm going to come up go all the way over and lightly skim any hair that's poking out the face framing can get to be really challenging for some people i've been kind of checking my face framing like this i don't even know how many years and thus far it's worked out great for me so don't get so beat up if you're a little off in some spots do your cross checking like this and i promise you it's going to make a difference as far as making sure it's matching up on both sides all right and i'm just going to do the same thing on this other side so i'm going to take my first section all the way from the back we're going to come in come towards you towards her face twist and i've got all that hair that needs to come out and then we're going to go move our comb up on that section forward while twisting and cut come forward twist and yep look at all that that needs to come out this is why i do this because you can sort of see it in a different way too rather than with the hair down like i said the face framing part can be quite challenging especially if you're new and i've just always found this cross-checking to work for me [Music] [Music] i want to make note too again because this is a side part if it were a middle you'd just be coming out straight to the center of the face but we want to bring everything to the center of the part so instead of stopping let's say right here where it would be if it's based on the middle part center of her head or face you're going to keep over directing and bring it to that center part and then do your cutting so again like i said those are the main differences with how i did it on a middle part versus a side part the back it's all the same it's the sides that you have to adjust your hands a little bit more and again we're just going to cross check over here the same as i did on the other side we're going to come all the way up and over and cut out any little hairs that might be poking out [Applause] and then what i like to do to match up my sides and the back if there's any um separation between your face framing to the length in the back we're going to respray okay so to check with your um back to matching the face framing in the front i just like to right behind her ear grab from the back push that forward and then you're essentially just gonna come in bring it forward cut out maybe any little hairs that might be poking through so really right here is all that she needs kind of snipped into and then like i said once you dry in style you'll be able to see a little bit more if you need to bring in more from that back so i'm going to go ahead and get her dried and styled i'm going to blow dry her the same way that i did my other short layer and then we're gonna do the fun part which is dry cutting which is my favorite part okay so we have her blown out and styled now as you can see we've got a ton of layers going on in the hair i'll also link in the description below my blow dry tutorial for how i get this blow dry um because i had people ask me about the last short layer so her hair came out really nice it's got a ton of layers um and actually with the lengths i don't hate as much as i thought i might at top because they're a little short to me for her length but it came out very nice so what we're going to do now is just go through and kind of cross check anywhere texturize anything that needs to be cut into sometimes on her top pieces i'll hit them with the thinning shears a little bit and then around the front of her face i'm going to go through she definitely needs some texturizing on these bangs and maybe cut in a little bit more around her face framing we'll see so i'm just going to show you guys how i go about texturizing and dry cutting the hair okay so we're just combing through and like i said i like texturizing it all depends on your client um she's a little bubbly to me in some spots but basically to crosstrek we're just going to come in kind of take like you're we're cutting in the beginning and just pull it out and cut into anything that you see is sticking out she's actually blending in really well sometimes down here lower on the bottom is where you need to cut into it a little bit more um but sometimes there can be a little disconnect there but she's blending in actually really well so i'm just going to go through and do this all throughout the hair in the back so i'll start off at the top kind of angle my hand still and cut into she's got a couple pieces there and i'm just going to work my way down while twisting my hands and another nice thing about this even if you don't have pieces that are poking out you could go in and do some point cutting if you feel like it needs a little bit of texturizing but you necessarily don't feel like it needs weight taken out the point cutting will kind of help soften it up without getting it too shattered or thinned out especially if your client wants to keep a lot of that like look of a thickness usually if my clients want to see like a lot of texture and movement i'll thin out those ends a little bit more so again that's just all personal preference and again twist as you work your way down through the hair so right here she's got a little bit that needs to come out and when i'm doing this cutting i'm trying to do a little bit more of a point cutting rather than going straight across because i don't want to create any hard lines [Music] so like i said i will link the blow dry i did on how i get this fullness in the bend in the ends i do use two different brush sizes so that way i use a fatter larger one on her base perimeter and then as i move up the head i go to a smaller brush to create the bend a little bit more to match [Music] i'm going to come in just on this very very top layer and just deep point cut into that and then we're gonna come into the sides right here she's got a spot i don't like how that's actually fine okay like i said her front bang is definitely to me it's way too heavy so i'm gonna texturize that with my thinning shears i'm just going to grab a little bit and then i kind of still come in at an angle with my shears and i just move my thumb as i work my way down i feel like these uh mannequin hairs are like the opposite of a bunch of people like i could never have bangs and texturize them i'm envious of the amount of hair this mannequin has and then actually her whole top piece here i'm going to cut into as well i don't like how thick that looks falling there typically with a side part you'll probably texturize around the face a little bit more where the hair is parted to just because you have more hair resting there as opposed to the other side i don't really feel like i need to do it i'm just going to barely do it there but typically because the hair is unevenly distributed that's why you might texturize more on one side than the other and then to add in just a little bit more face framing i feel like it just needs a little bit more kind of in this middle section here so i'm literally just going to grab that piece and i'm going to angle it forward and just right here is what's bothering me not a lot just a little bit she just has so much hair on the freaking sides of her head i'm gonna kind of cut into this bottom part is so thick on her again this is why dry cutting is so important because you get to really see how the hair is laying and then sometimes i'll flat iron the hair too to see the smoother it is how it falls but typically it all blends up well as long as you're dry cutting whether it's like super full in your blow dryer or not and i'm just gonna come over here on this other side and do the same thing just very lightly in this middle area again i'm gonna bring it forward and down and yeah there she's driving me nuts i'm going to do just a little bit more texturizing on this front piece here where she has the side parted because again there's a little bit more weight through here and often clients like one side of the head can be thicker than the other so even if they don't have a ton of layers you might need to adjust just for that sole reason like i have more hair on the left side of my head than i do the right so if i'm wearing it in my shorter bob i typically have it cut into a little bit more on this side because for when i'm bald over here but it is thicker naturally on my left side than the right and then to do your checking in front of the face with a side part you're going to again center it to this part where they have it so whether it's on the right side or the left side where as opposed to when it's in the middle you're gonna bring everything kind of right directly at the center of that chin with a side part you're gonna take it and bring it even to where the hair is being parted so you can go ahead and stand behind them or in front of them bring it over to match it up cut where you need to and then i'm going to take a look one more time and see if i need to cut in anywhere but i'm thinking she's good she's got a ton of body all right so i'm going to show you she's off just ever so slightly with this front piece here so i'm going to cut that to blend i'm just kind of coming i can see it better now here i'm going to just kind of come up and point cut in so it's this that's hanging out right here again i'm just doing a little bit at a time so we're not over cutting there we have it lining up much better all righty well yeah she's got some really beautiful layers and like i said i actually am surprised how much i like the shorter pieces all the way up here compared to the length so we've got a good chunk there but everything flows in so as long as you're making everything float and blend you can go pretty short with the layers and then from the side we've just got that nice face framing blending in but we didn't cut in too much so we're still keeping that fullness throughout the bottom okay guys so here we have our finished result we've got some nice beautiful shorter layers all throughout the hair we're getting a ton of movement everywhere beautiful face framing in the front i am really happy with how it came out honestly the main difference between a shorter layer haircut or a haircut in general with a side part versus the one i did back in december on the channel is that when you're going to check the layers on top rather than bringing everything straight up center to the head you're going to center that to the part line so if they part on the right side you're going to over direct and bring it straight up from that part line and same with if it's on the left side that way that's how the hair is falling so when it's down everything's going to match up a little bit more on the sides remember you're going to angle your hands as you're moving up the head really over direct the angle of your fingers for those top pieces and then remember on the sides if you're nervous about cutting too much or cutting a hole pull back away from the face while angling still to get in those shorter pieces and then the face framing and the sides again you're going to bring that to double check your face framing pieces to where the center of your part is not the center of the face and then small sections when you're creating that face framing just so you have the most control and always remember to be able to see your guide before cutting so i will link um the haircut i did back in december with the shorter layers in the description below as well as how i got this blow-dry there down below too so i hope you guys enjoyed this video leave a comment below please like share and subscribe and i will see you guys next week

Channel: Styles By Summer

Views: 1,505,858

Keywords: shorterlayers, therachel, layeredhaircut, movemnt, texture

Id: 15F9-uUSmvo

Length: 39min 22sec (2362 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 30 2022