Shooting with Huntsman, with Pierre Lagrange and Nick Foulkes

here we are thank you for in the pub at huntsman in the huntsman pub actually we're going to rechrist in that enhancement i love the huntsman where we go after the shoot yeah and so the idea today was to basically go okay what should someone wear for what kind of shoot well i don't know you're the expert on shooting pierre i mean you shoot like a demon so um you tell me what to wear well you're the sartorial expert i mean i actually have moved um i used to wear lederhosen for quite a long time and then i kind of decided i wanted to have some trousers so actually just in front of you there is and here is exhibit a exhibit a yeah this was the famous tweed that basically daisy and i kind of rigged wasn't it to win the competition well i think i mean it wasn't rigged we just made sure that votes were cast in its favor so maybe we yeah and i think there is whenever i wear that everybody loves it because it's it's surprisingly fitting in the countryside and with the purple and the green it was done by a gentleman from nebraska who had never been in america never left america leave america either to get it done because you know the new york italia to the new york city exactly and tell me what do you think of please are you pro please i'm very pro please but i like drape i mean you see i probably i mean with this for example what have i got in here apart from the poacher's pocket the poacher's pocket is amazing i have also got um deepish pleats um where are we yeah there and there and i always i always like pleats i mean not for any particular reason they're just also if you're fat when you're happy too much it sort of is a bit more forgiving and what about turn-ups i love turn-ups i'd have them deeper myself i don't know i've got no turn-ups today of course yeah i'm not practicing what i preach but i love her and was the story of turnips and dukes well i as far as i remember there was a passage in the duke of windsor's memoirs um a king's story where he talked about his father's attitude to modern dress which included turn-ups and apparently every time he saw his son wearing turn-ups even inside he would look up and ask whether it was raining or not because of course the thing was that you would have turned the trousers up to um to navigate puddles and so forth all right but i'm not i mean i don't i don't know no it's one of these stories it's one of those apocalypses like going rat in harris yeah the guy who would to tweed ascot i don't know that story uh i think it was epic the seventh who go in rhett in harris he asked him if he was going to go ratting because he was dressed in a manner that suggested he was sort of more properly dressed for killing vermin in the countryside rather than attending ascot but um talking about dressing uh would you mind just taking that ball there no the bolt on the right here actually talk about dressing julian fellows who's actually really um as he told us from an earlier age realized that he really wanted to be dressed up properly let's let's move a little bit in the light here i want to be dressed up i didn't care about properly he actually his favorite uh shooting um uh attire is uh caught have you seen that i thought the big student of downton abbey so have we seen that have we seen corduroy being worn in the field in downtown i don't remember the shooting moments in downtown but uh i think they're more like in three piece tweets i would imagine so this is him being very daring i think corduroy is wonderful though i've got many suits in corduroy i've got pink several blue ones brown they're great yeah but i don't wear them i wouldn't have worn them i wouldn't thought to wear them shooting no i didn't actually but julian does and actually exactly on the being posh julian let's look at a couple of the things here as some you know i had the extraordinary privilege to be able to um to buy uh from a wonderful gentleman who was going to vintage shops um shooting suits from eric clapton these are these really eric club yeah so you you can see that in the would you would you take one of the jackets there yeah and shows the the lapel inside and um it's on the other pocket i believe and normally i think it is on this pocket the name has been blocked out yeah we actually but you verified it through your records we verified through the number record and actually when uh eric came for lunch here you remember we were together yes yes yes downstairs he actually saw this but i mean it's beautiful it's it's beautiful and he's got three pieces uh and even four pieces suit so if you were a commissioner shooting suit from scratch would you go for two piece three piece four pieces six six okay i'd go for a pair of i mean this is the experience a little bit this is extreme i would go for maybe let's put it in there so you can see that the lovely hue i would go for regular trousers with turn ups without turnips then the shooting britches but sort of plus eight so to sort of almost comedy bertie worcester shooting g-lay normal waistcoat or west kit as we're supposed to say coat then a hat so i don't know how many pieces that is but that would be the hat the coat the wesket the trousers the other trousers the shooting delay and the breaks so that's and the gun slip and the gun slip that's eight that's eight so i mean i think four pieces is very very restrained double down slip nine let's let's talk about the the west kit and the plus eight these are new things to me so why do we need to say the west kit what's the story i don't know i mean again it's like calling a jacket a coat do you know what i mean i was perfectly happy to call it a jacket until i found out that that was very in for dig um but then you've got to talk about overcoat sports coat and all this i mean but if you ask any of the guys cutting they'll be very they're very sort of correct about these rights for them it's sort of and there's a story about um the man in the city who asked if he could take off his jacket only to have his boss tell him this is obviously a while ago when they dress properly in the city um his boss tells him any potatoes have jackets gentlemen's wear coats yeah it's a fun one yeah yeah so let's look at a jacket actually what do you find yeah that coat sorry so yeah that's a detail so these are pockets and uh patch pocket bellows patch pockets so you can i mean presumably i don't know i think you should be able to fit two boxes of cartridges in each one without breaking so that's enough to start a small and you've got that little extra button you've got the extra button so that when you're loading i mean really i can't i mean i'm so poor at shooting that i can't load and shoot at the same time so i need to have somebody do it for me but i love this kind of detail where you have this out of the way so you can quickly load and then when you're finished you button it back down and then this is here to sort of when presumably when you're accessing the pocket so much you're in danger of fraying the top so this is a protection the thoughts the throat strap is nice but really what i like best is when they have that sort of kidney shape thing under the lapel which you then take out and button across but as you see you've got the foul weather fastening here so let us excuse me when i do this you button the lapel and then across the throat yes for foul weather but as we know everybody wears sort of appalling kind of technical fabric and actually isn't that a technical fabric treatment it was a technical fabric when in when they didn't have technical fabrics i mean the technical thing about it is it's heavy so it's warm when it when you get wet the fibers expand so it becomes kind of quite waterproof i mean you can wear i wear a tweed cap all day in the rain and my head remains dry because the tweed when it's damp it just expands and then doesn't let any more water in is that what's happening the fiber expands and then it blocks the little holes and yeah and so it becomes that's amazing i know so i mean if it were being marketed today they would market it with these miracle properties but it's it's i just love the color and i love the sort of the way that they've done the yarn and they've got these all these colors gray blue moss a bit of yellow bit of rust it's it's it's exquisite i mean it's a it is a little work of art in my opinion i find these so yeah we've got more and more people who love to make their own twitter we do this house tweet like the one you're wearing which is wonderful it could have been done yesterday yeah yeah it's not bad actually no say so myself emma would you mind turning it around there's some details at the back on the flower loop as well it's nice of course the flower i love the idea if you go onto the peg with a sort of carnation in your lapel or some daffodil or something like that a puppy but it would be a poppy wouldn't it because there's not much in bloom in the shooting season no there's a sort of chrysanthemum or whatever you call okay so let's talk about that the what's the detail here you have like pleats you've got a belted back shooting back which is basically you've got this where you get extra movement and then i don't know if this one has got a bit of elastic across the back inside or not to to allow it to return to its place it does return to its way because there's nothing worse than flaps that stay open yes or well i don't know i or maybe it is it's so well tailored this being huntsman that it just sort of snaps back into position automatically and uh the belted uh at the back just to gather the extra cloth and is it tradition oh it's to gather the extra clothes off the because you've got these little pleats here so it enables them to to i mean i've got these in cotton for the summer because they're like fitzgeraldo you know that movie fitzgerald i love it and i love that and i've got lots and lots and lots of little pleats tucks more or less here across here to give it a sort of ballooning feel almost across the back you get you get to use more fabric and i mean i take it that's that's the point and then it's sort of i don't like anything tight i mean i'm the antithesis of what people like today people love to have these television personality type outfits where they look as though they've been sprayed on do you know what i mean i mean the leg is sort of sometimes like this well it's not practical when you outdoor shooting so we would not recommend that we leave some ample room and i like lots of cloth yeah and because it's so beautiful as well and i just think drape is so much more flattering than sort of trying to because as soon as you're trying to look young you look old do you know what i mean it's almost almost axiomatic it's that effect let's look at the trousers that we've got there because i think if i remember correctly talking about the weather they've also got a feature would you would you mind taking them off the yeah i'll take that from you okay so if you hold them up or is it this one actually it is this no it's it's got that too okay what what is what has it got well it's got that fish tail oh that's for braces i don't have it on this one because i got straight top crafts yeah but i mean i love the fishtail back it's very it's very flattering and it's quite practical and comfortable i mean what did oscar wilde say about trousers he said something very clever he said they're worn from the shoulder rather than the waist meaning that you have them i mean basically these the ones i'm wearing are a little big i know and i had these made so that i could do the straps and wear them without braces but i always wind up wearing braces because they look they hang much better so matthew one of our cutters downstairs has got this extraordinary contraption that you can only wear with braces where he's got some suspenders for his socks which are tied to the bottom of the shirt so it keeps the shirt tucked in and the stock up that's very italian i've seen also the ones that i think but gianni and ellie had these ones where you like a nappy buttoned the sort of shirt underneath the crutch but it was very difficult when you wanted to hail a text it was quite uncomfortable right the shirt would sort of just i'm sure he found other people to hail taxis at the end i think i'm never sure that it's not him perpetuating a joke on all the people who mimicked him do you know what i mean like so that john is wearing his underpants on his head we've all got to wear our underpants on our head now that's how things have started like king george and digilay and yeah and this but what i was told is that um that's also very practical for bad weather because then you back your kidneys yeah i mean i mean i yeah i mean also but i i find it gets in the way sometimes if you're wearing a normal west kit yeah um because it's sort of the the little bit of the little bit of uh ribbon that they have on the back to kind of tighten and loosen it sometimes get caught around here um but that but that but from a point of view of warmth yes i mean i also wear them very high waisted i mean they used to joke that i have my trousers so high waisted they should put arm holes in them um like sell the pets or something like that but yeah i mean that's that keeps your kidneys yeah and the bottom emma would you put it upside down thank you what you got here velcro very velcro so we velcro or we button or it doesn't matter i have little buckles i have some with buttons um but that's because they are i mean this is a proper shooting man's thing because you would put them on and it's about the convenience of right do you know what i mean so this is obviously somebody who knows what they're doing so you're not horrified at the sort of velcro creeping in a traditional so much is crept into shooting these days that i don't think it's as i don't think i mean i think that this is a practical measure and if i mean if look if huntsman made it it can't be that bad well we do what people want we try to tell practically it's very fast i don't have velcro because i like the tradition i mean the first pair of platforms i got was again they were more comic you know what i mean they were more like the sort of be worcester ones so you mentioned plus four now and what are those are they plus plus what would these be plus fours plus twos maybe plus twos plus two there's a special thing plus fours are shooting plus twos are for again i could be completely wrong plus twos are for walking and then there's plus sixes and plus eights um but i mean i don't know but the but it's it's about the drop of the so i like it to look so what is the plus exactly it's it's the number of inches here i believe okay so you tighten it here and then it drops interesting so so the more is probably for the more right yeah yeah so what what and then the funniest thing is sometimes when you undo them they almost look like kind of turkish trousers because they sort of because they're so they've been on some of mine the the the drop is so long that by the time i've let it out that they sort of come down to them almost anyway so they're most like they're almost like comedy pantaloons you know what i mean it's like they go straight into acting alibaba or something like that but i suppose the larger number the more ample and therefore for like imagine skiing for instance maybe the plus six was skiing that's something like that yeah i don't ski yeah well you you're looking good skiing yeah i know but i really the only reason i do it so i could wear tweed plus sevens or plus nines or something like that well actually campbell and i are sort of plotting on returning the tweed to skiing that'll be that'll be so we've we found an original lily white of 1920s tweed yeah which we are inspiring ourselves to recreate a huntsman ski suit you know you know what's also brilliant is the guy picard professor picard who is the model for the original professor calculus in the tintin novels great one of the great belgians of all time and he went into he went to the bout to the border of space wearing a norfolk jacket and a tweed hat no full jacket then which brings us into the norfolk jacket yeah before we go to the fault i wanted to ask you a question so this is from the earl of code or the 10 of coder this is this was this was what they wore in macbeth wasn't it well but it's 1925 it's a bit after macbeth then and it's a bit after my best but what we intrigued is that okay it's got a lot of fraying protection yes or was it for water protection now that's fraying yeah that's that's just because it's knackered i don't know if they've redone the buttonholes as well no but the buttonholes look pretty original and if you zoom in on this you'll see the decay and where not not not terrible i've got i've got a tweed coat with some stag horn buttons and i tell you the staircon is like running sandpaper over the over the stitches you have to have it yeah they're so abrasive so these are very these are not looking bad for a hundred years why do you think we've got this maybe they were very keen on um kestrels and hawks and they would have them a light on the forearm possibly um i mean it seems to be a very for a riding coat it seems to be pretty multi-purpose you've got the gun patches here yeah not a full yoke but just the gun patches you've got the the the sort of equestrian sort of narrowness here and the cut to the flare um and then you've got these which are hawking patches or may or i don't know i mean normally normally they would be here or for gum not too slow no no but maybe it is for a gun not to slip but then why on to anyway well maybe they're ambidextrous or maybe they were doing a hawk and a gun at the same time if anybody's got an explanation we'll you know reach out to them write in on a postcard exactly okay so let's the core door quiz it's a beautiful cloth i mean you've got you've got a bit of pink and a bit of heather in here as well it's fantastic it is why that gentleman from nebraska was not that far no the gentleman from nebraska as we know is a genius why don't we take that note you mentioned norfolk well but i'm keen about norfolk jackets is that professor picard wore one when he went near space he was um in search of some magic race and he went up in a bathy scaffold and then came down in austria i think and he went and lectured the local villagers on what he'd found and he was wearing a norfolk jacket and a tweed hat and what's really special because there's a lot of tailoring there there's a lot of details much of which i don't know what's what it's all about but these were the this was the ultimate performance garment in late victorian england if you were i mean because basically activity was not something gentlemen really took until relatively recently so this would have been your if you were walking somewhere if you were gonna because the alps were a summer destination so you would go walking in the alps wearing this you would go cycling on your penny farthing wearing this you would go shooting any form of activity beyond tennis uh or croquet or polo or whatever you would this is for your cold weather sporting outfit it's brilliant i mean i love it you're meant to put i think it's supposed to put when this aren't you supposed to have pockets in here sometimes hand warmer pockets you know these things i'm not sure about this one this is yours i take it you've got the antlers on the inside yes that was actually a an interpretation of the stag in the back and the back again it's got that belt yep i mean it's a great garment i i don't know enough i mean i'm i'm so ignorant on almost everything but i'm particularly ignorant when it comes to norfolk's but i've got one here we go yeah i've got one in grey it's fantastic i'll wear it to the watch first let's look at uh that other coat what is it what would that be listen i don't know i've got absolutely no idea what that is whatsoever but i like it it looks nearly like something horse riders would wear no look at i don't know it looks like a paletot or something like that i mean it's very interesting you've got you've got the extra pocket where'd you get this stuff it's from the archives well yeah but i mean when 14th century now this is very recent this is o2 this is brilliant what is it it's made for count a warrants off desu it sounds like something out of tolstoy and he had it in 19 in i presume 1902 not 2002 but actually 2002 obviously um and he liked it so much he didn't come and pick it up well he will now that he knows it's here no he knows it's ready it's ready what's the back okay so i think this might be the count's own design very possibly especially have two story related activities tolstoy okay let's let's move on what else if you look at the way that the um you love your corduroy and the way the corduroy has been cut for the collar is nice how is it well if you if it's just nicely done because it has to go in some some bias yeah i know but it's beautifully finished i really do like the way it's been done it's great good and then um what do you wear in the evening where you invited um um somewhere shooting what's the what's the the well you know this marvellous dress code which there's so cause you know when you're packing and you're taking a lot of stuff for just one night it's always easy when they say that you're it's less formal so you don't take one thing so there's this marvelous dress code called velvet smoking jacket but no bow tie so they save you the trouble and the weight of packing your bow tie which i think is very very thoughtful because we know bow tie next to cufflinks are some of the heaviest thing you can travel with so they leave you just wearing the jacket the dress shirt the trousers the highly polished black show us the smoking jack of the i love this in brown yeah is that a real one or is that one you had made up earlier that's uh no no that's a real one um is it a real one yeah i think it might be a stock model i think it's a stock model yeah and so very nice too would you fit me you can try uh it it fits me so it's probably a bit bigger okay i'm afraid but what's you what's your take on that what what's the ideal smoking jacket personally wouldn't have vents but no vents but that's only me that's only me i mean you know i'm i'm certainly no paragon on these matters um i've got one in silk velvet but it does tend to as you can see the the it marks well as soon as you as soon as you unless you have absolutely impeccable manners never rest your elbows on the table and i'm one of the least well-mannered people i know um you immediately f you immediately find that the the velvet bruises and in silk velvet it's even worse which is terrible but still though it has this wonderful handle to it it was cotton velvet's more robust and shawl or peak or sole yeah absolutely sure yeah i've got one i've got a smoking jacket in corduroy blue cordless blue needle cord with ribbed silk lapels it's uh short collar it's fantastic it's copied off one that the duke of windsor used to have and one or two of these braiding how do you call that frogging for reasons that are beyond me but yeah frogging emma do you know why we call it froggy no i think it used to be probably that they killed frogs and then twisted them up into little bits and no i got no idea why it's called froggy okay but the frog mouth lapel you can understand because it looks a bit like a frog mouth in profile but this looks nothing like a frog at all um i'm in two minds about frogging the i mean i love detail and i love overkill and i love decorations so if i look like a baroque german church when i'm going out i i feel it's about right but even i can think this may be a time when too much frogging is not a good thing that's probably about right i probably it looks a bit like a old-fashioned dressing gown to have it around the lapel though i find right you know you know there's old-fashioned dressing going yes like we've got one from long time ago here let's have a look at the ladies one there i'd wear that you see i don't mind that i don't mind the frogging there because you're giving an error of formality to basically you know what could be a kind of non-dress cloth i think george v had a tartan suit that he i think it would be able to fit that he would wear for tea after shooting so he had a suit into which he changed to have tea it was something from the 1880s or 1890s and then he would um that changed out of that into whatever he wore next but um it was a bit it reminds me a bit of this i love it i mean i'd wear this yeah it's beautiful um i think that's actually that campbell design that's marvelous um and tell me so um let's look at the truth there are you a big fan of truth love any check i have a i have a dinner jacket in something like that where that yellow bit is purple um looks a bit bill haley in the comments but none the worse for that i quite like i mean i'd wear these i mean very happily i i'm but i mean probably to the great offense of proper scots people because i presume that the falc's tartan is non-existent but um i just love it i mean i love i love i mean i also love wearing i have very lightweight tartan trousers for the summer and so you wear the tartan trouser with a smoking jacket uh yeah but then um you wear it with the smoking jacket and i mean or i would or i would wear normal evening trousers with a with a tartan jacket so that's the right combination yes but it's not the right combination it's one combination it's one combination and i forgot but i've been told what the colors on tartan mean i remember that if there's red that means it's a family that's been winning battles that could be the case but the yellow i forgot what the yellow is i defer to your greater knowledge on these matters as in everything well i i peed you must expend you must explain hedge funds to me as well while we are here i've never understood those so let's let's look at what else have we got that have we got ladies um yeah so what do you what do you see your lady friends shooting with same as us man or different gardens what was andrea wearing she was wearing a sort of leopard skin coat and she had a gucci rubber boots yes uh but she was wearing a tweed skirt was she yeah okay so skirt or skirt tweezers i think no i don't think there is no skirt no trousers yeah um yeah i mean i it's up to them really i like i mean i'd wear that tweed for sure i mean i have it cut differently and the chile the shooting healer i love um i have mine done with a pocket in here to put in the the recoil pad right which i think is practical yeah because they used to quilt them and that's lovely but over time the quilting breaks down i mean not that i i mean i shoot very seldom and also i have many more tweed garments than i need right and happily i still have the aesthetic capacity more for more but the but the practical use of them is perhaps not what it might be but if you're shooting a lot and you only have a couple of those things the the the wadding will after you know it'll compress and be negative so one should really insist and i think it's quite a good idea i mean nobody i mean nobody should or shouldn't do anything but i think in terms of practicality it's quite good to be able to because if you're shooting for i know two days and it's you're getting double gun and you know you you don't it sort of rather spoils your second day if you've got a bruised shoulder already so and it's a small gel pack it's a gel pad it's a gel pad so it's very it's not big it's not big and it's there i don't know i mean there's all sorts of technical wonderment that they managed to put into them but you know i don't know all right and what else have we got i think we've we've already talked about uh yeah these are shooting with trousers shooting with trousers informed me that only dukes used to flute with trousers and now um everybody finds it more convenient yeah and also when you're driving home and you stop at a petal station you look you stand out i think you stand out full stop but you stand out maybe slightly less than the guy in the plus fours yeah probably less but i mean not to take on the train yeah but i mean you know it's it's it's it's it's sort of degrees i think they're great are they yours um i think those might be yeah they're good i know i've got the same and uh but yeah that's the inspired by gregor yeah i shoot with trousers oh moleskin i'm still i still love moleskin and also your later housing are good yeah i i like those later yeah which is good let's have a look at uh the final garment from the clapton um archive that we got there i love the way you refer to it as if it were sort of like from the met it is good i mean he is he is one of the great treasures of this nation okay would you mind opening that okay so this is a light gabardine when would someone wear that i love it um i mean i'd wear it almost anywhere to be honest but this is it's it's presumably for warm weather shooting in scotland yeah from scotland or uh spain spain maybe or texas on quail what have we got here yeah so he's got plus fours there too i've been i've been shooting quail in one of the cotton states just in georgia yeah georgia yeah and that's extraordinary and actually because the way because the way they do it you're going through a lot of very very very resistant undergrowth so everything gets very scratched so you really want something that's thought proof that's where your laser housing would come in or something like this but i i fear that even something like this would be so if you you're gonna do trousers but like um with with gators or yeah i mean they wear gators they or chaps or something like that but um or shapes as i believe was incredible and then the last garment there is a cape are you bringing these back we've got a couple of clients who are uh who love that that's a woman's cape isn't it i think that's one is a woman's cape yeah well i like it what about great coats are they coming back not so much for sure we yes for uh for um city wear i suspect but uh i love this i think this is great what's the back like it's a raglan shoulders do raglan shouldered you i mean i suppose i always knew about the right there's a raglan shoulder can you apply that to this garment or not or would you always make this karma because there wouldn't be a sleeve head anyway so i mean the raglan the raglan sleeve was obviously lord raglan who lost his arm at waterloo and it was more convenient for him to get into and out of the garments with a rag with the raglan sleeve rather than the conventional sleeve i didn't know that it's extraordinary and he was that um he fought at uh his last thing was the crimea where he confused things a bit by referring to the enemies who were the russians as the french and the french were the allies because he was still fighting he was in his mind still back in back in the napoleonic days but now he but he he lost his arm at waterloo um or lost that from the elbow down i think and had to um have this thing done to enable him to wear garments and then you had the earl of cardigan was also at uh crimea and inventing the cardigan i don't know if he invented the cardigan at the crimean war but he apparently wore them on his yacht he went there with his yacht well it's interesting you you mentioned that because most of these designs are coming from functionality yeah a lot of them being military yeah because they look good but you need to be practical and at ease and also there was less convention i mean men's clothes i mean if you read that little thing from oswald burley over there there was much more individuality in terms of dress there were the the sense of correct form was i think it was less oppressive do you know i mean so you could i mean so you could it was so much virtually everything at the time was bespoke well everything else other than i mean everything so you just had it made to suit you yeah well thank you so much for doing that as always sharing your pleasure pleasure pleasure pleasure thank you thank you very much thank you very much

Channel: Huntsman, Savile Row

Views: 37,700

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Id: AH60Nm6AiAE

Length: 33min 56sec (2036 seconds)

Published: Fri Aug 21 2020