Shoot Lightning From Your Fingertips - Shoe Enclosed Static Electricity Generator

warning this project uses voltages which can be dangerous if proper precautions are not taken this video is intended for education and entertainment purposes only if you don't know what you're doing don't mess around with high voltage hello everyone in this video I'm going to be showing you how I built a shoe enclosed static electricity generator which allows me to charge my body to several thousand volts by simply shifting my weight so this project was actually inspired by the channel Nighthawk and light and just as with their design all the same effects can be seen including the levitation of kline particles with the electric field the main improvement however is that this design allows me to toggle the voltage completely hands-free and doesn't require any grounding wires running down my leg so what we have right here is an overview of the entire build and throughout the video I'll be showing you what each of these components is along with how to obtain it but to start off I'll be talking about this guy right here which is part of the circuitry from the inside of an electric flyswatter and what this will do for us is convert the steady nine volts DC from the battery into a high-frequency DC on the output which we can use later on down the line okay and so to get started the first thing we're gonna need is one of these guys this is just an electric flyswatter you can pick them up at Walmart or any store like that kind of like an outdoor store somewhere like that they're more common in the summer obviously but I try to pick mine up right at the end of the summer when they go on sale and then just buy kind of you know 15 of them at a time get some nice looks from the store clerks anyway so the first thing you want to do is just open up one of these bad boys you don't even have to but the first see on this one we have some screws here here and here and on the inside so I'm gonna do is go ahead and remove those alright so once we've done that we can go ahead and look inside and the first thing we're gonna want to do is discharge the capacitors now this should already have and done we just go ahead and take any piece of metal and short it across these two leads here there'll be the two wires going to the mesh up here you wanna put a screwdriver across and short of just in case your model doesn't have a bleeding resistor and it's still sort of charged so you can get a pretty nasty shock from one of these one of the worst shocks I've ever got actually has been from one of the capacitors I don't want these flyswatters so be a little careful with that but then the next thing we're gonna do is take that screw out and then we have the board kind of free from its enclosure so we can go ahead and take some wire cutters and you could desolder these but and we can reuse these wires later so I might as well just go ahead and give these a quick desolder there we go and then these we we really don't need anything on this side of the board it's in no time no use wasting some time and so now we'll have the board and what this board is is it consists of your input circuitry a little transistor based oscillator a transformer and then a voltage multiplier however this is a puny little voltage multiplier we want something significantly better and so we're gonna rip this off and replace it with someone like you this guy right here and we're gonna be showing how to make that in a minute but we can remove all of this circuitry and there's a highly scientific way of doing that it's called turning it over and cutting the board in half so let's go ahead and do that so you can just take it and you can see here we have the three pins of the transformer everything on this side we can just imagine just cutting right through we don't need any of that so you just want to line up your snips nicely and just kind of snip it and hope the crack doesn't screw up the important part alright so there we go you see it cracked across there and that was a pretty good crack and then you can smooth it up even it out if you're a little compulsive like that so there you go now all we have is the transistor driver and the transformer and what this will do is it'll take our nine volts because we're going to plug a nine volt battery in even though this was meant to be run on three volts to 1.5 volt batteries we can actually run it perfectly fine on nine volts so that's what we're going to be doing so now that we have the transformer and drive circuitry from the flyswatter we can step up our nine volts to a few hundred but this still isn't nearly enough and it's also not a flat DC voltage anymore so in order to fix both of these issues we can use what's known as a Villard cascade or voltage multiplier which consists of several diodes and capacitors wired as such so in our case we're going to want to use capacitors with a value of 100 picka farad's rated for three kilovolts we're gonna want to use diodes high voltage diodes rated for twenty kilovolts however if you can't find diodes with these ratings you can always wire two diodes with a lower rating in series which is what I'll be showing you how to do because I ran out of 20 kilovolt diodes myself so here's just a quick time-lapse of me making a voltage multiplier so first I just grabbed the right number of diodes and capacitors and then I cut the top lead off half the diodes and the bottom off the rest then what I like to do is suspend my iron from something and tin the ends of the components and solder them together in the air because it essentially gives me an extra hand then when I have all the diode pairs I start on the multiplier by laying out to the capacitors and soldering diodes between them from there I just repeat the pattern until I have all 14 stages but it's quite repetitive so I won't do all of that here and I'll just do a few stages so you get the idea and then after I add a stage I can trim the leads off the ends of the diode so that they don't poke out so believe it or not that's pretty much all there is as far as the individual components are concerned and now all we need to do is wire them together but first we need to identify which two pins on the flyswatter board serve as the outputs of the transformer so that we can connect it to the voltage multiplier to do this we can just look at the bottom of the board and identify the two pins which are no longer connected to anything after we made the cut so you can see that all of these pins are connected to the drive circuitry which is what creates the oscillating voltage which drives the transformer however you can see these two pins here are not connected to anything and so these will be the outputs of our transformer additionally what you're going to want to do is you're also going to want to if your transformer board has a switch on it you're gonna want to just bridge the connections on the switch because we're going to be wiring our own switch in series with the battery but once again these two in this case would be the output of the transformer because they're not connected to anything else on the circuit but one question which might arise is which side of the voltage multiplier do you attach to which output of the transformer and you may think it doesn't matter because it's frequency you know AC it does not because of the operation it'll work both ways but there's one thing which is important and I'm going to demonstrate that really quickly just by hooking this guy up to the 9-volt battery here and so if you hook this up to the 9-ball battery what you can see is that this side won't do anything when I touch it to the case of the battery but this side this side actually arcs a little bit so this is actually pretty important to consider because one of these outputs will actually be connected to your leg this contact here is that eventually will be connected to your leg so that you can be charged with the high voltage because the high voltage on the multiplier is between these two outputs here so the voltage multiplier will work regardless if you were to connect this guy there and that guy there or cross them over each other however you wanted it'll work all the same but once again one of them is going to be connected to your leg so if you were to connect this one which is the hot one quote-unquote hot one which arced to the battery if you were to connect that to your leg then if the battery touches your leg you'll get a shock and based off of the design the battery will be nestled up against your leg and so to avoid that to avoid this guy just shocking the battery and wasting power as well and shocking you you just want to make sure that you see which one shocks to the battery and connect the other one to the bottom end of the voltage multiplier because that's the one you're gonna be connecting to your leg okay and so now we're finally ready to put all the circuitry inside the shoe so when you have your shoe you're gonna want to take a knife and make a cut down the side of your shoe and you're gonna want a shoe with a slightly flexible tread so that it's kind of foamy and not rubber because if it's rubber you're gonna have a pretty hard time cutting through it so I'd recommend the Nike flex run edition I believe this is the 2015 version or the 2013 version but once you've got shoes with a fairly soft tread you're just gonna want to take a knife once again and cut down the side of it so like I'm doing here I'm just demonstrating now this is already put together but you're gonna want to take your blade and just run it down the side until you separate the two parts of the tread so you won't separate all of the fabric above it from the tread below so then when you're inside you're gonna want to take your knife and simply make another incision so that you have room to put the transformer board into the sole of the shoe so then you can see I took some heat shrink tubing and made a little flap down here at the bottom and this is to serve as extra insulation I also coated the bottom of the sole in some heat sorry in some electrical tape and both of these are to serve as extra insulation so to make the flap I grabbed a piece of heat shrink tubing like this one and I just basically made a cut along the side of it and taped two of them together to serve as extra insulation and this helps to stop any extra arcs from going through the sole of the shoe into the bottom of your foot then the last thing you want to do is on the battery connector you want to take your positive lead solder it directly to the board and then the negative leads gonna take a big detour around the top of the shoe to a little indent which sits right under your big foot on right under your big toe so really accurate scientific model here this totally isn't a real foot this guy right here we turn the fake foot around oh look it moves it's really anyway right here so you have your big toe here you want the switch right there and the reason for that is you can curl your toe and that's how you push the switch so you can do it seamlessly and here no pressure is gonna be on the switch and so because there's no pressure on the switch when you're normally walking it really won't pull the trigger that much which is pretty good so first of all you want something which is a little easier or a little harder to push this is way too easy and so it falls triggers every now and again when I'm just walking and you don't want that but to help battle that as well what you do is instead of just putting the switch side up you actually cut a hole a little button sized hole in the shredded the shoe we did for the transformer here and you inset the switch into the shoe a little bit and what that means is you actually have to push down on all of the fabric around the button in order to push the button and push the button down into the layer below it and that makes it significantly harder to false trigger so that's a little trick to make that work so finally one more time just to recap everything on the model the first thing you're gonna want to do is you're going to want to take your 9-volt battery here and you're gonna want to connect its positive and negative leads to the flyswatter board but you don't just want to connect to the negative lead directly you want to run the negative lead all the way around up here to a switch located right underneath where your big toe kind of between your big toe your big toe is here and the rest of your foot there you want the switch right between there so no pressure is applied when you don't want pressure applied then you're going to want to run this back down and right back into the board and so that's what's going to turn the device on and off when we want to buy either curling your big toe or shifting your weight then you're going to want to take the outputs of the flyswatter board and run them into your voltage multiplier remembering that the lead that shorts to the battery is not the lead that you connect to the bottom because that will inevitably connect to your leg then you know we make the voltage multiplier as we detailed before and we want a 14 stage voltage multiplier so 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 and so then the lead which is on the output the output will be over here and the same side that the outputs on is also the side that you're going to want to connect to your leg and I'll be showing you how I make the connection to my leg in the next clip but you want to make the output go to the leg and then but this is also really important and I didn't mention this anywhere else either but you want to make sure that the lead that you connect to your leg also directly can to the battery because the battery can actually accumulate its own charge and then it will want to get to this part of the circuit and to your leg but instead of it going through you if you directly connect the same wire that's connected to your leg to the battery then any charge imbalances will ease themselves out nicely instead of doing it through an arc and so you won't feel a thing it's really important otherwise once again you can get shocked by the battery which not fun so two ways that can happen you want to avoid them like this then finally you take the other output of the voltage multiplier and run this to ground and the way you do that is by taking your shoe and just punching a little hole right through the bottom and running a wire down there and then you want to take a piece of aluminum foil tape and run it along the bottom of the shoe and that will make a good connection to ground this is also very important because it allows you to make that good connection and without it they will not work all right and now that we finally have everything put together the last thing is putting it on so in order to do that we just need some sort of strap here and so what I like to do is take a piece of foil tape and leave the back on and then put two pieces of velcro on either side and then in order to put it on you're gonna want some pretty high socks so you're gonna roll your sock down go ahead put this on wire side down and then just put the velcro on like so now you can make your own strap however you want I prefer using foil tape because it's pretty soft and really comfortable and you don't even notice it's on compared to harder metal the downside is it will break eventually it's not the most durable thing in the world so once you've got that on the next step is going to be taking your shoe and just putting it on so go ahead and do that and leaving the battery harness and this connector exposed then what you want to do is take the alligator clip and feed it down into your sock like so and then roll your sock up now you'll be able to find the clip in your sock and clip it through the sock onto your connector now this is really nice because it means you don't need to cut a hole in your sock and this slight gap between this because the voltage is so high won't matter at all it makes a good enough connection and now finally what you want to do is take your 9-volt battery and tape your other part of that wire to the case ground and this once again prevents you from being shocked by the battery just a little bit of extra protection there alright and then you can go ahead and plug the battery in and tuck it inside your shoe and then go ahead and lace up tuck the wires in better and now you're ready to go [Music] so hopefully you enjoyed this video and to leave it off I'm just going to show a few more of my favorite things to do with this project so thanks for watching once again hope you enjoyed and I'll see you next time

Channel: Partial Science

Views: 76,819

Keywords: Static Electricity, NightHawkInLight, Static Electricity Generator, Negative Ion Generator, Shoe Enclosed, DIY, Superpowers, High Voltage, Partial Science

Id: cOA2qJBw2gg

Length: 19min 18sec (1158 seconds)

Published: Sat Jul 06 2019