Shaper Origin Mortise & Tenon

hello so in this video we're going to be cutting some twin mortise and tenons with a shaper origin now there are lots of ways to cut this joint but i love exploring options and learning the characteristics of a new machine personally i like gaining that experience all right let's get to it here i have some cherry boards cut roughly to size at the table saw then over at the joiner i created 90 degree corner by milling one face and one adjacent edge and then i marked those two surfaces then here at my table saw i cut the components to size but i wasn't sure of the height of the frame or the thickness so i left it big for now then it's over to the planer and here truthfully i'm just showing off i like showing my bed height lowering mechanism fun to use and you should always remove backlash you'll notice how i'm going up and then i come into the measurement that i need that removes any backlash out of the gears so real quick for those of you that don't know backlash is that slack between parts typically found in a gear and so when you're moving one direction it's tight and then when you reverse it there's a little bit of slack that's referred to as backlash so if you go past your measurement you want to back it off and then come back into your measurement to get rid of that slack or backlash beautiful all the pieces are now milled square and they're all the same in height and width and this is the way i wanted to configure the components the interior will be sized for a 20 by 16 so i cut two long ones and two short pieces yeah man setting up the shaper origin and i'm using the workstation i love this device that you put on top that enables quick and easy reference to the top and here you can see i've marked all these components right on the corner because they're all going to be cut exactly the same basically what i'm doing here is i'm taking a quarter inch router bit turning it around so just the shank protrudes and we can set up an x y axis and create a grid this helps to create a perfect xy reference so that the machine knows precisely where your workpiece is located then of course here i'm just creating what's called a scan so that the computer is reading all those markers yeah this is incredible technology this allows that machine to know exactly where it's at in 3d space to the thousandths of an inch and this is so cool this is where we're creating the grid right and so i can drop the bit down where it just slight slightly protrudes past the bottom of the router and then we're going to use that quarter inch bit as a reference so we'll make contact with the first part of the edge you can see how it asks to make sure that the bit is correct size which it is we establish one part of that grid and then the second part and then we go around the corner creating this beautiful x y axis and you can actually see that component with my little tick mark in the corner there so you would think of the grid as graph paper and here i'm going to modify that grid spacing and i'll input 1 16 of an inch and yes of course this will also work with metric all right from there we're going to go to create and we don't need any files we're just going to use onboard capability so we're going to input a rectangle basically that is point two five by point seven five quarter inch by three quarters of an inch and that will be both the mortise and the tenon how cool is that we're gonna go down about an eighth of an inch that's our plunge depth to start and here if you remember that those grid parameters we can move this and put it into place you can also type in the dimension that you want for that placement since this is a twin mortise and tenon i'll copy that shape and move it over exactly where i want again i could input that measurement or i can just drop it in place using the grid a lot of options with the shaper origin you may have noticed that i allowed more than a quarter inch between the two tenons that way i have a little bit of slack for that quarter inch bit all right from there we go into cut mode and this is a little bit odd for me but with cnc technology you're cutting your tenon first and then you cut the mortise which is completely opposite of how you learn conventionally where you create your cavity or your pocket or your mortise and you size your tenon to fit that and the reason being is because we can make the tenon slightly oversized knowing that we're going to be using a quarter inch bit we'll have a tenon in hand and we can fit it to the pocket and make adjustments to get a perfect fit all right so that motion that you heard was the z-axis establishing down to the surface so now it knows exactly precisely where it's at in 3d space in the x y and z axis fabulous right now this component that we used earlier to establish a zero reference on our height it also is a support arm which is really important for small pieces like this these guys have thought of everything right and i'm plenty far enough away from it and since i'm following a tool path there's no way i'm going to run into it and boom look at that yeah man that is awesome and from here it's just lather rinse repeat yeah and i believe i was going only an eighth inch at a time which could typically go a lot deeper may you know they say the diameter of the bit so i could have gone about a quarter inch at a time but my router bit was really dull and i've since ordered some more and for a situation like this you would want an upcut bit because that will vacuum the pieces better and if you saw some of my recent videos where i'm cutting veneer that is always a down cut bit because you get less fraying on top and that router bit helps hold the veneer in place and i thought it'd be a lot easier just to get rid of all that excess at the table saw and here i'm checking the depth of that shoulder cut with a scrap just to ensure that all my cuts will be well exact all right that is what we're after looks beautiful a twin or double tenon so at this stage i have all of the components cut with tenons on all four pieces right and now we can adjust the workstation to accommodate for creating some mortises so i decided to use a reference stop block that way i could create mortises in two of the long pieces in one position and then switch out to the shorter pieces and do the same thing and yeah i suppose i could use double stick tape but uh clamps will work as well right lots of ways to do things okay here we go same as before so i just put in a square this is all on board and then for the mortise i'm putting in the long part of that mortise first so i input that number first the three quarter and again by quarter inch 0.25 and then i copy it add another one put it into position it's that easy i love this machine then we go to cut mode and set up all those parameters now if you remember when we cut the tenons we made them a little bit oversized and then here initially i was trying to make the cavity smaller than a quarter inch which i was being silly i reached out to my buddy sean and of course yeah you can't make the pocket smaller than the diameter of the bit so with a negative offset everything worked and that's how we do it we just keep on plunging deeper and deeper a little at a time and here we're 13 16 deep yeah man let's uh let's see how this fits so all this chip out here that'll get cut off but uh anyway look at this that's awesome yeah all right so now we can add a chamfer around all the tenons and the chamfer on the tenon will not only help inserting the tent into the mortise a little bit easier it'll also prevent squeegeeing the glue off the sidewalls right and this came out pretty good it's not exactly how i'd want it you can see some gaps there but i can fine tune that and i can make that work all right let's do a dry assembly here and this is the configuration that i wanted to put the frame just overlapping components kind of a different design yeah i like that all right so the picture size is 20 inches wide by 16 tall so i allowed 3 8 came up with 19 and 5 8 by 15 and 5 8. dimensions check out so now we can create a small rebate or rabbet on the back side of this frame here at my router table i wanted to show you something so i have a porter cable router and you can see how i doubled up the end of this wrench by just cutting one wrench and welding it to that because i had bought one of the offset wrenches from porter cable and the first time i used it the wrench jaw spread open is a piece of crap anyway this works extremely well so i decided to cut an angle on the ends of all these pieces maybe a 10 to 15 degree i don't remember exactly what but i want to sand those saw marks so an easy way to do that is to gang them all together using a something straight clamp them and we can sand them all at once and yes you could use a hand plane for this it'd be quite easy to hit all four of those at once but i'm gonna use a belt sander here just because i like them so i think i'm starting with a 120 grit cherry burns really easy it's notorious for burning especially on end grain so start with a belt that's clean smooth new and rough enough to prevent that once you get all those saw marks out then we can sand the scratches left by the prior grit right so i'm going to go from 120 to 180 and typically end grain gets sanded to a higher grit here i'm using 220. now sometimes i can't leave things alone so i decided to cut a little bit of straight on these angled ends and then give those a final sanding and here i'm simply marking where the stopped rabbit will end on one component the rabbit can run all the way through but one of them needs to stop so at this point i've cut the stock down in size i've finished the ends and now i can create this rabbet to compensate or to allow for the picture so you may have noticed that i my first pass wasn't held tight to the fence i'm just kind of making a initial cut to remove most of the bulk rabbits are notorious for chipping out especially at the router table so doing it in two passes eliminates or at least mitigates that problem yeah that should work so now that i'm done banging things around and you know sliding the material through the router table i can clean up all these edges so i went straight from the joiner and table saw planer and then a hand plane my lovely lady loves chinese food i go there for the glue sticks i mean chopsticks perfect for spreading glue all right let's glue this i'll uh add a couple of magnetic protective pads and i can clamp this and check it with a square and you can see how acute that angle is or maybe it was obtuse couldn't really tell anyway i can move that clamp left or right until it clamps square it's really important yeah and i simply clamped glued and clamped two halves i also thought it'd be easier to do two halves that way the tenons would be going the same direction and it would just be easier to clamp and so here i'm doing the proverbial diagonal check which is not foolproof keep in mind that if this was a trapezoidal shape those measurements would still be the same but this did turn out square well there it is out of the clamps strong beautiful flat so now i just need to sand it a little bit flush everything up there really close and break the edges staining the lacquer so i decided to think ahead a little bit and come up with a solution for hanging the frame what are you doing so we've got a straight edge here so the router the left side of the router can ride against that have some material here same thickness as the picture frame and i can plunge down with a little keyhole bit and then i've put a stop there so i don't go too far and should be pretty simple process yeah let's give it a good i'm gonna fire the camera guy well i decided to use a black matte paint instead of stain but there it is hope this helps somebody out there i absolutely appreciate the views and the comments and remember to click like subscribe learn thanks a ton for watching [Music]

Channel: Ramon Valdez Fine Furniture

Views: 33,687

Keywords: mortise, tenon, mortise and tenon, ShaperOrigin, woodworking, woodwork, picture frame, marquetry, inlay

Id: ss2rFRBYLxM

Length: 14min 11sec (851 seconds)

Published: Sun Feb 27 2022