Shaper Origin & logo inlay

in this video i am going to be using the shaper origin to create some inlay work these are the colors and veneers that i'm going to be using they're about 0.8 millimeters or about a 32 of an inch so this is the client's logo and he wants this about three and three quarters diameter which is only about 95 millimeters and so i printed this out on a piece of eight and a half by eleven just so i could get a good look at all the little components the little blue lines are only about a thirty second of an inch so yeah pretty tiny pieces [Music] rather than using the typical double stick tape i decided to go with this easy tack it's similar to the 3m 77 adhesive but shoots a much finer spray and much better control all right after gluing the three veneers to my piece of melamine i'm using the workstation this thing is fantastic addition to the shaper origin i can secure that through the workstation platform with a couple of screws right and then using the supplied bar that comes with it you lock that in place then you bring your work piece up and you've automatically created the exact height fantastic all right now that the workstation base and the workpiece are on the same level plane we're gonna start a new scan and for those of you that aren't familiar with the shaper essentially the camera is reading all those domino shaped pieces and inputting them into its computer and so it will know once it scans this area exactly where it's at in 3d space and i mean exact once the computer reads all those and they all turn blue it's registered them and we are ready to move on so i had to edit this video that's why some of those work pieces are already cut but i wanted to show you the grid setup so essentially what i'm doing is removing the motor and i'm gonna take the router bit out flip it upside down and we'll use that quarter inch shaft to establish a grid so the grid is similar to like grid paper it establishes an x and y axis off of one corner so this allows a user to have an exact reference in regards to placement and specific increments from each edge so now i can go to grid and then new grid right i can either touch the green button on the screen or the button on the knob will drop the router bit down i can make it contact lightly contact against the front edge of the work piece it asks to confirm the bit size so i go in here point two five quarter inch okay i've pushed that button it says move to the next position so position one and two are the x-axis establishes the x-axis it tells you move to the next point so i go around the corner the machine magically knows and around the corner it establishes the y-axis beautiful technology very intuitive and then here i can go in and modify the grid spacing so i decided to go 0.0625 so 1 16th grid spacing for a really accurate placement of parts man i got to tell you i love this thing from there the machine will take you to design mode and then we will import the file you can see them there the little lines we're going to start with those and cut those out here you can see i have the option to rotate the file and i'm going to rotate them so that the grain will all run horizontally across the logo now i have plenty of blue material and these components are pretty small so i can just visually place these by looking directly underneath the router collet and then just manually place these now in the video i've jumped ahead slightly and i've already cut some of the components but i just thought i'd cut some extra ones just because i'm cutting them and it's easy to do so the blue path is where you know a previous cut has been made now i am definitely still learning this machine i learn more every time i use it and also it's obvious it should be obvious that many of the video clips have been sped up all right power the machine off let's move that aside and see how we did beautiful tiny little pieces you can just barely see the white of the melamine showing through right in there fantastic right again i only need a little bit of this white so i can get the inner part of that circle right so i'm just going to ballpark somewhere in the middle of this piece after grabbing the file that contains the ring i can cut on the outside of that well i'm actually cutting on the inside of the ring but on the outside of the white part and i just make a roughing pass i'm checking the depth there and then i can go in move in a few thousandths and make another cut that's the beauty of this machine it is that precise i love these painters spatulas they're super thin and you can get the pieces out without breaking them now i could use the same file that was on the screen i could have just made a copy of it and moved it over or like i did here i just went and grabbed a new one you can see the old one to the left of the screen there the new one is in the middle of the screen i'm going to place that the grid that we established earlier allows you to do this there we go and place there you can see a highlight so this black ring here is what i'm after i'm going to be cutting the inside where it meets the white all right now we drop into cut mode and i can choose inside the line or outside the line i can choose an offset just a few thousands ten thousands fifty thousands whatever i want as i mentioned before i want to make a rough pass and then a smooth cut that way the edge isn't as ragged as if you just made one pass and you can sneak up on a perfect fit this way this is a beautiful machine and basically all i have to do is keep that circle within the path of the cut and the router adjusts for human error as it's going all the way around it's really amazing technology and the old school in me wants to use calipers this machine is way more precise than me measuring with a pair of calipers it's actually not even necessary so here what i'm doing is punching in a few thousands bigger i have the the inlay in hand and so now i can just remove this and i thought this would be a little bit troublesome with double stick tape and this method is actually working there's another way to do that and i'll talk about that a little bit later in the video here i'm just removing some of that glue right so i like my pieces to fit really tight and you can slightly back bevel the insert piece with a piece of sandpaper this is 220 grit glued back to back i've already done this i'm just kind of going through the motion anyway um i know a lot of people like to allow a few thousands i i want it to fit tight especially with wood and the thinner the more you can handle that if it's a big thick piece of wood there's not much room for for tolerance so with something thinner you're going to get a little bit of flex and so of course this direction is going to flex a lot easier but this direction you can put something underneath like this little ruler and that is just wanting to go in that's in them on that side so i know that would go yes it's a little bit tight but that'll make a really good seam of course you have to be careful because once that comes up it could chip a corner there's no corners on round circles okay i've got a little bit of this is lacquer thinner i just want to kind of dissolve some of that adhesive so i can get a fresh start because there's a lot going on let me grab this there's a lot going on in this um logo you know you get all these little pieces and so i want everything down nice and tight so that's why i'm gonna clean this glue off and then i'll somehow mask mask that off shoot it with a spray again i'm going to glue the edges that way the edges of the veneer are connected from this white to the black and then i can have a nice fresh start okay these have both been sprayed they've tacked up for a little bit and i'm going to use white glue because i don't know if yellow glue or anything else would stain this white it doesn't look that white but it's it's a it's dyed poplar and it's white i don't i just thought i'll just use white glue might as well i want a full bead all the way around so by using a thin ruler i can bend that veneer across the grain or perpendicular to the grain of course it wants to naturally bend with the grain and so by bending it across the grain first and tucking in those edges i can remove that and then the top and bottom slip right in so what i want to do is feel all the way around the perimeter and make sure it's in before i actually commit to pressing it down because the the adhesive the spray adhesive won't let it slide around and it feels like it's in there pretty good so get all this excess glue out of there [Music] and it'd probably be a good idea to check the height of the workstation to make sure it hasn't drifted down after this and of course a low raking lights always a fantastic way to check for flush all right that looks good so i'm gonna go ahead and cut my numbers out of white and it's kind of weird to me because typically when you're doing inlay you're creating your cavity first and then you cut your pieces to fit with cnc you basically cut your your insert pieces and then you cut your cavity that way you have your in your insert pieces in hand and the cavity you can keep cutting slightly larger until the inset pieces drop in but it's backwards from what i'm used to so i have to think that anyway so i'm going to cut the white numbers the one and the nine and and then i'll cut the cavity for this black the entire black next the black will go in i'll have the numbers already and then i can start cutting the numbers in right everything in order so let's take this thing and i'm going to go ahead and remove this you can see how it's on the screen that's it's showing this so i can get rid of that get it out of my way i won't need that anymore so in design i can put remove i want to remove this remove you race you race your race so that's gone so now i can go back to import and grab uh the numbers these dudes here and i can place it so those numbers will fit right in there the area between there and there halfway is about what so that's about two and three eighths inch and three sixteenths that's center so my center off this edge is about five and three sixteenths and then we'll be over over here somewhere two and three quarter whatever so five and three sixteenths up right in there five point one two five point five point eighteen seventy five that's three five and three sixteenths and then over two and three quarter on the x-axis place there's those uh numbers yeah so again what i can do is set up to make an offset of about i don't know ten thousands so i'm not cutting quite where i want make one pass and then come back in and make a clean uh finish pass and and move the bid over that 10 000 so it's really superb way to get beautiful clean accurate cuts another thing worth mentioning is that i've changed to a smaller diameter bit so i can get into those corners and leave less of a radius and anytime you change a router bit you need to do the z-touch which lets the machine know where it's at in height space so i'm following the path as close as i can and as i get to those corners i can hold the green button down that puts it in auto mode and you can see how obediently the router follows those places fantastic and i've recently learned from my buddy david bedrosian that you can double click the green button and it just puts it in auto mode so you don't have to hold the button down at all sometimes you like to hold it down as you're making the cut but if you don't need to that's a fantastic option so the numbers are cut so now i'm going to take this white off and add another piece of black here i didn't think about it when i set this all up but i need this piece of black that outlines the numbers and i don't have enough to get it out of here so you may have noticed instead of moving removing the white i just decided to add this little piece of black on this on this right side over here a lot of ways to do things and this will work so i um i laid out to try to get two of them on here but it's too risky i'm really close to this edge so i'm just gonna go back to this design here and remove that remove bye bye and grab it again import and i'll put it at eight three sixteenths so 8.125 that's close enough and this way was inch and three quarter right in there place all right that's better so now what i'm going to do is i'm going to cut the outside of this right yes so that will be this black is what i'm going to cut now changing bits is super quick and easy and i don't mind changing out to a larger bit to make the initial cut rather than you know putting that demand on a smaller bit i wanted to show you this this is a 132nd bit see that shows up look how tiny that is there's my lead point seven lead which is really close to equivalent point seven millimeter lead tiny little bit but i'm going to use uh 1 16 to start and then i'll follow with that same 1 32nd bit to get those tiny little inside corners is there any yeah probably a couple this one in here or no this one here and these inside corners oops sorry that was out of frame yeah outside zero offset bit size has changed so we'll go point zero six two five one sixteenth z touch awesome all right ready to roll all right i've changed bit from the 132nd cutter to or i'm sorry from the 1 16 cutter to the 132nd cutter so now that i've done that i need to i can go back into cut and it shows here that my bit size is .062 1 16. i can change that to .031 oops .031 inches or 132nd it says here don't forget to z touch after changing bits so i love this about the machine it really tells you all your areas that you could forget something and one of them is z-touch boom establishes x-axis nope he means z-axis and we're ready to cut and that way these little corners will get sharper with that smaller bit all right okay now we can cut the pocket for the the numbers all that in black i'm going to go to import find that file oops it's right here inlay extra piece and grab this dude after everything was cleaned i masked everything off added some shields sprayed both pieces then glued the perimeter of the piece and set it in place all right i'm going to cut the numbers out now and i have a 132nd bit in there and i set the depth only at 25 thousandths so this material is reading about 40 thousandths 39 thousandths so i'm not going to go full depth it's a tiny little bit it could probably handle it but i don't want to break a bit we'll see how this goes and then i can do another pass you know the full depth and maybe cut the perimeter slightly bigger by by a few thousands to clean everything up i'm guessing so let's see how this goes it looks pretty good i mean these are tiny details i'm not real experienced with this sort of thing unless it was marquetry that is my my wheelhouse and small intricate details i can do but just trying to learn something different that looks pretty dang good so let's go ahead and do the nine yeah so here i'm just using a scalpel to get everything to release from that easy tack then i can clean that up all right good progress i've got the nine and the one cut out and fitting i'm just using some of this double-sided 220 to get inside those corners lightly back bevel the numbers and get rid of some of that fuzz so those will go in the same way i'm going to use some spray adhesive to you know spray both sides and then wood glue around the perimeter and get those in and then i can cut out this negative space of the nine i believe they call that the counter inlay a piece of black and then all that's left is one two three six pieces of blue and those are tiny that's a 132nd line which is how we decided to use a 132nd bit so progress now i believe with cnc when you're doing an inlay typically what you would do is create a reverse or flipped image of the insert piece you would get rid of all the surrounding area you wouldn't cut all the way through and then you would take that entire thing flip it over and glue it into place but these pieces were tiny and i didn't know if that would work all right so i'm going to cut out this little black part the counter for the nine and so what i can do is i can just come over here to this let that highlight see how that highlights and i can hit copy and i can drag that over here and i've got plenty of space so i'll place it right there there it is and then we go to cut i'm on the outside of that piece yeah right so i did that in one pass as far as the depth it seemed to do okay i just wanted to test it if i broke the bit and i figured well i've used it quite a bit already um so just trying to learn you know what i mean how how things work so now that i have that i'll go ahead and cut the the negative space in the white so i switch to inside okay now as i mentioned earlier i would like to say i'm just learning so if there's a faster way i'm all about advice so let me know all right so i cut that piece and i cut that out right and i can adjust this and make that a little bit bigger because truthfully i want this space as big as possible so that once i get the black in i'll have a little bit of i need some room for the blue because these are tiny little spaces so and it didn't cut quite through deep enough so i'm gonna go ahead and change this a little bit deeper point zero four two i don't wanna cut into the melamine because it's a one thirty second bit and probably would snap if i try to cut into the melamine so i'm a little bit deeper and then my offset i'm gonna change it to uh it's five thousands i'm gonna go two thousandths i don't know all right let's try that that looks pretty good all right i got everything cleaned up on the inside and this piece and of course any time you have something that's nearly symmetrical of course you want to mark the top or the front and also yeah one edge one you know the top so you don't accidentally turn that around i've done that before so i'm gonna go ahead and glue this in and you'll notice that this is getting a little bit you know some of that black is migrating into this white hopefully that'll clean up this is relatively thin so i don't have a lot of sanding scraping thickness and one thing i have noticed that since these are dyed veneers that seems to be more pronounced i've worked with ebony and holly which is you know holly's lightest wood that we have as our palette in natural natural colors and i made some piano keys one time and piano keys as an inlay after i got done sanding and scraping it was beautiful the contrast was perfect and just you know ebony and ivory basically and it just totally separated with none of this migration so hopefully that'll clean up all right let's cut some blue or some cavities for the blue i should say these two areas are next that one and right in there all right got all the little blue pieces in i didn't do it on camera because i didn't need the added pressure one two three four five and the little tiny blue one under there something like that crazy cool so all i like is doing the ring so i'm just gonna cut out outside the line and that's it it'll be done kind of cool yeah all right so last pass i'm gonna do the circle on the outside you can see it highlighted there i need i changed the bit so i need to change this so eighth inch bit .125 oops point one two five done don't forget the z touch love this part z touch see the router going down check we're ready one thing to know when you're using air you need to be really careful and not get air under the piece it'll just blow it blow it right out of there again moving in a few thousands to sneak up on a perfect cut i gotta say i am super pleased and very impressed what the shaper origin was able to do tiny little beautiful details so i just want to lightly get all those little burrs off there and put a a very light angle or back bevel this will help the insert go in easier right and you're getting those little burrs off at the same time 220 grit there we go all right so i've got this logo done and it measures about four and three-quarter maybe just nope three and three-quarter a tad over 375 that way depends on where you measure it 3743 anyway the guy that i made this for he needs to inlay this into his furniture component whatever he's making so i'm going to make a template using the shaper and it'll be made out of quarter inch something like this right and i'm going to allow for the bit that he has i contacted him and found out what bit sizes he has and the collar that he's going to be using for his router so super straight forward he does have a half inch bit so i've installed a half inch bit in this router and a one inch collar so that's a difference of half inch right pretty simple math and so if the logo is three and three quarter i need to make a hole four and one quarter to allow for the the bit size that he's using and the collar so i'm going to cut a template and i'm going to go just a couple of foul under because it's better if it is if the logo is a little bit tight you can slightly sand the perimeter and sneak up on a perfect fit now if the template hole was too big a simple solution would be to add a couple of layers of tape all the way around the inside edge always there's always a fix i've changed i've changed the bit make sure it's tight quarter inch bit drop this dude back in beautiful thing about this machine is we can use on board tools to cut this circle so go to create circle diameter will go 4.25 done there it is i can just place this wherever i wanted this big enough so the customer can have easy area to clamp or even you know double stick tape whatever so place get rid of this thing for now to remove there we go so i need to be on the inside that's um cut there we go so depth i'm going to go well it's quarter inch but i'm not gonna go all the way through with the first pass so i'm just gonna go an eighth inch point one two five done i'm on the inside that's where i need to be uh offset i'm gonna go ten thou for now bit size is a quarter inch 0.25 don't forget z touch boom so probably wasn't necessary to make three passes to get through this but the melamine the quarter inch was actually thicker than i thought but they worked i've got a scrap piece of melamine with some veneer adhere to it i don't know what he's inlaying it into it's a piece of wood i believe but this will still be a good test so let me anchor this down and template i'm just going to screw this down he could probably clamp this i made this big enough we could clamp it or maybe double stick tape there's nothing there let me put a a bit of a spacer and actually i'm just going to clamp this side so i don't put a hole in that veneer something like that now the depth depth is pretty simple we're just gonna take uh the router put it in place drop the bit down until it just makes contact with the surface right there lock that right now we'll take whatever thickness we're going to go in which in this case this logo is the thickness and bring the depth stop rod down on top of that boom that is how thick this bit will now plunge all right let's give this a go incidentally let me touch on this real quick so this router bit is spinning this direction so right here on this particular piece or even his wood that he's going to be inlaying this into that grain could be susceptible to tearing out because you can see the direction of the bit so this area here and this area here is a little bit vulnerable so what we want to do is make a reverse cut and then we can follow up with a conventional cut okay let me uh pull this thing loose let me use this thing all right now i've sized this just a few thousandths actually just about about two thousandths um tight but wood is amazing it will it's basically an interference fit i don't allow space i force it in there so it'll be tight it'll it'll bend it'll bow up in the middle then once you clamp it it's going to get super tight so you can see how good that fits it's actually in all the way except right there boom how's that not bad right beautiful and so there you have it i hope you learned something from this video i learned a bunch creating this working with small bits looking forward to doing more and as always thanks a ton for watching

Channel: Ramon Valdez Fine Furniture

Views: 20,846

Keywords: Shaper, Shaper Origin, inlay, router, wood, woodworking, veneer, dyed veneer, CNC

Id: TBHHuBr6TqI

Length: 40min 0sec (2400 seconds)

Published: Sun May 30 2021