S&G 6730 Combination Lock Installation

hi I'm Brian costley from Sargent and Greenleaf in this project we're going to install a mechanical lock standard group to type lock on this safe where there is no lock currently first we'll open the door it's a good idea to immediately block the frame so that we don't accidentally close the door while we're doing our installation the next step is to hold the relock device in check that's a spring-loaded plunger which if we don't hold it back will securely lock the safe when we close the door and turn the handle and we don't want that to happen during our lock installation so now it's held in check with the vise grips here's our lock body this is a model 6730 a standard group to type lock I've removed the cover screws we can take the cover off and this will be necessary in order to mount the lock on the safes mounting plate this will be a vertical down mount because the bolt of the combination lock will interact with the bolt work down on the bottom side so with a bolt pointing down that's called a vertical down mount in some safes it could be a right-hand mount like this or it could even be a left-hand mount or it could be a vertical up mount same lock mounted for different ways vertical up left-hand vertical down or a right hand and of course we're going to be mounting vertical down in this particular application these are the mounting screws that come with a lock there quarter-twenty machine screws you notice that one of the screws I've already used here so we've got three mounting screws left that are quarter 20 and 3/8 of an inch in length we also have shorter quarter 20 screws if the mounting plate for the safe is thick enough to accommodate the longer screws we use those if the mounting plate for the lock that's in the safe does not accommodate the longer screws then we're going to have to go to the short screws and you notice they have a red substance in the threads that's called vibra tight it's a dry thread sealing compound and if we're using shorter screws we must use screws that have some type of thread sealing compound otherwise those screws are likely to work loose over time and that will lead to either degraded performance of the lock or it will lead to total lock failure we'll go ahead and put in these remaining 3/4 20 by 3/8 screws we've got three of the mounting screws in this is the fourth one by the way the use of a magnetic screwdriver will make your life a lot easier once we have all screws in loosely we can go ahead and tighten the last one we put in work up diagonally to the other corner tighten we can drop down to the bottom of the lock tighten work diagonally again and tighten the top screw up here now we've tightened them all evenly and the screws are all really tight not just snug but very tight holding that lock to the safes mounting plate once we have a lock firmly mounted on the mounting plate let's pull the drive cam out set that aside for the moment we're going to use something called a dial ring alignment tool which is a couple of bearings on a straight shaft and there's a threaded barrel on the end that we use to pull everything together on one end of our dial ring alignment tool is a bushing with a W on it that goes in the wheel post and everything else that we're going to do is from the other side of the safe so we'll go to the front now here's our dial ring it's a black painted ring it has a an opening index and it has a changing index we've got two mounting screw hole locations and we have a large opening in the center where we will insert a Delrin or a plastic type dial ring bearing we do that from the back we turn the dial ring over insert the dial ring bearing and it just presses into place and if we have it inserted correctly the back of our dial ring and bearing is flush right across we also have our to dial ring mounting screws these are 832 machine screws before we fasten the dial ring to the front of the safe door we will install one of the bushings this one has a D on it because it goes in the dial ring and this is part of the dial ring alignment tool once we have this installed in the dial ring bearing we can push the whole assembly against the front of the safe now we take the threaded barrel assembly from the dial ring alignment tool thread it over the end of the dial ring alignment tool shaft and we just want to Snug it up it's not real tight but it's fairly snug and what that does is it pulls the center of our dial ring into perfect alignment with the center of the wheel post inside the lock that brings everything into absolutely perfect alignment we can still rotate the dial ring so that it looks like it's straight up and down and in line with the other components on the safe door but the center is exactly aligned with the center of the wheel post oval lock inside the safe door once we have it in this position we can install our 8:32 dial ring attaching screws notice we leave the dial ring alignment tool in place while we do this and I've not yet really tightened up these screws because I want to make sure I have a good visual alignment of that dial ring on the safe door before I do that now I'll go ahead tighten those down now I can remove the threaded barrel from my dial ring alignment tool take the bushing off the shaft pull the other side of the tool out from inside the lock and I'm done with my dial ring alignment tool this is the dial assembly for our lock you notice of course it has the numbers on the front it has the grip it also has a threaded brass spindle this brass spindle is what transfers your dialling motion from the front of the safe to the lock components inside the dial seats in the dial ring and the dial ring bearing and will have to go to the inside of the safe to thread the Drive cam on to it here's the Drive cam which we removed from the lock when we were going to use the dialing alignment tool it has internal threads that match the threads on the dial spindle so I'll hold it on to the end of the spindle from the other side of the safe I'm turning the dial and you'll notice that the spindle is threading right through the Drive cam as I'm sure you've noticed by now we have a lot of excess spindle material so in order to be able to cut the spindle to the correct length and yes we will have to do some cutting we need to thread the Drive cam all the way down until it is seated inside the wheel post notice we move the lever lock lever out of the way so it doesn't cut get caught between the underside of the Drive cam and the top of the combination wheels and now we have it threaded in until it's just snug in order to know where to cut it we need to mark the spindle we can just take regular marker and we'll mark it where the excess comes through the back of the drive Kim I've taken these dial in the spindle back out of the lock-on thread of the Drive cam and then once I had the dial disconnected from the lock I went ahead and threaded the Drive cam back on you'll notice I have my mark it shows me exactly where I'm going to cut the spindle after I cut the spindle I will dress the end of it so that it has a slight bevel and then I'll thread my drive cam back off any threads on this spindle that have been deformed in the cutting process will be brought back into the proper shape just by the action of unthreading or taking this drive cam back off of the spindle shaft again I've cut the spindle where it was marked I've dressed the end of the cut area with a file and now I can thread the Drive cam off the end and remember any threads that I've deformed will get put back into the proper dimensions just in the act of unthreading this drive cam from the spindle next step is going to be to install the dial before I do that this is not a required lubrication point but I'm going to take just a little dab about high-grade synthetic based lubricant I don't want to use a petroleum-based lubricant because it may react adversely with the material in the Delrin dial ring bearing and so I'm going to take just a little bit of this lube and put it right there on the underside of the dial now I can install the dial in the dial ring from the front you can see it right here in the center of the wheel post place the neck of the Drive cam over that notice I'm holding the lever out of the way with one finger supporting a drive cam the Drive cam with another one and I thread the spindle back into the Drive cam here is a very important point in the installation I'll use a laser pointer to show that we have letter designation stamped into our drive camp there is LH that stands for left-hand vu stands for vertical up our H stands for right-hand V D stands for vertical down you'll notice that next to each one of these double letter designations there is a small slot which we call a splined key way that's milled into the Drive cam there is a single slot or splined key way milled into the dial spindle this lock is mounted vertical down we can tell because as we look at the back of the lock the bolt is pointing down so we need to align the single spline key way in our spindle with the correct letter designation which would be V D for a vertical down mount so we hold the drive cam and unthread very slightly the spindle from the Drive cam until we get a close alignment of the single spline key way in our spindle with the V D spline key way in the Drive cam this little brass piece is called a spline key and as you may have guessed it goes in the aligned spline key ways that you just put into proximity with each other between the spindle and the Drive cam here at the V D spline as you can see in this close-up with our spline key partially inserted the head or the flag of the spline key goes out over the Drive cam it does not cross towards the center of the spindle this is the correct orientation for the spline key with a spline key partially inserted I come to the front of the safe and I just want to check the action of the dial I'm looking to make sure there are no spots in the rotation where I get rubbing or binding between the dial and the dial because my installation was accomplished with the use of a dial ring alignment tool would be very unusual to come across any binding however if I were to install the dial ring without the aid of a dial ring alignment tool I would very likely find some spots in the rotation where the ring does rub against the dial in that case I would look for places around the dial where it rides lower slightly in the ring then at other spots around the circumference then I would correct that basically with a little brute force I would use a soft faced either a plastic hammer or a rawhide faced hammer and I would strike the dial ring sharply at the point where the dial rides lower in the ring I would then go back and check my rotation and see if I had relieved that binding and eventually I will relieve the binding remember always strike the dial ring never strike the dial itself or there's a chance that you'll bend the spindle once your spindle is bent it can never be straightened and you'll have to use a different dial and spindle assembly once I'm satisfied with my dial action I can go ahead and seat the spline key again I use a small lightweight hammer and I strike the spline key on the top smartly and if you look very closely you'll notice that the underside of the head of the spline key is just barely touching the top surface of the Drive cam it's now fully inserted its friction fit in other words it deforms slightly when it's driven into place and we have a good firm connection between our drive cam and our spindle in order to prepare our lock for actual use we'll need to set a combination on it and after an installation you may not have any idea what numbers are set into the wheels and so be difficult to simply dial the lock from the front to set it up for a combination change will align the wheels manually and and we'll have everything said you notice I take a tool this is just a hex wrench and I'm moving the wheel by putting the hex wrench in this cutout in the edge of the wheel this is called a wheel gate and I move the top wheel gate until I find the cutout in the wheel below so that I can move those two wheels together and then I move those two together until I find the cutout or the gate in the bottom most wheel once I have all three wheel gates aligned together and I can move all wheels with my hex wrench in the wheel gates I move those wheels counterclockwise until my hex wrench is caught in the hook of the lever nose and I leave the wheels in that position one other thing I want to mention before we put the cover on the lock is the torque adjuster you notice these gear teeth on the edge of a disc here and they mesh with the gear teeth on a little pinion gear you may receive with your lock a small 3/32 inch allen wrench which is designed to seat in the pinion gear of the torque adjuster it allows you to rotate this what the torque adjuster does is it determines how much friction is present between the components of the wheel pack it does have an effect on how hard it is to turn the dial but that is not the purpose of the torque adjuster the main point of showing you this is to be sure that you don't make any adjustments on the torque adjuster if you do you may Sabir ly lessen the security of the lock mechanism so the torque adjuster while you have a tool sometimes provided to make an adjustment it's a very tempting target but the best thing to do is simply not make any adjustments it's factory set before the lock is ship and it should be left in that setting our wheels are in position so we can install the cover this is very likely going to be a temporary installation because we have a plate that will go on over the back of the lock cover once we have our two cover screws in place time to insert the change key you'll notice we'll make sure it's fully inside the lock case there is a small raised section or what we call a flag on the change key that wants to be completely inside the lock case once the change key is fully inserted we turn it 90 degrees counterclockwise which is the only direction it will turn in and as we do so we feel in here a release of tension inside the lock the lock is now prepared to accept a combination before we set the combination we need to be aware of a few things this is the opening index at the 12 o'clock position it sometimes referred to as the crows foot it's used when we're dialing our combination to open the safe to the left is a straight short index and this is the changing index when we're preparing a lock for a combination change or actually setting in the new combination numbers we dial to this mark we also need to be aware of a few rules for selecting good combination numbers we do not want to set the last or third number the combination in this span between 90 and 20 on the dial that only applies to the last or third number of the combination otherwise we may experience a mechanical interference inside the lock and the lock function well it may freeze up and we'll need a technician in order to reset that for us so we simply avoid the third number of the combination being set between the span of numbers between 90 and 20 on the dial we also want to keep adjacent numbers of the combination at least five numbers apart we want to avoid strictly a sending or descending combination sequences for instance we wouldn't want to use a combination of 7080 90 a better combination would be 70 90 80 so we avoid strictly a sending or descending sequences we also want to stay away from easily guessed numbers don't divide up the digits of your phone number or your birthdate or any other easily guessed number for security reasons it becomes obvious why you want to avoid doing that in order to set the combination we need to be viewing our changing index straight on when we're dialing our combination to open the safe we will view our opening index straight on don't look at it from either side if you look at the index mark from an extreme angle you'll introduce an error automatically in dialing we begin anywhere on the dial we don't have to start at zero a commonly held misconception we start anywhere remember our change key is inserted and turned so we're setting a combination and we're going to pick a good combination of 1287 22 we turn our dial counterclockwise at least four times and we stop on our first number of 12 if I go past my number even slightly what I meant to stop on it I go around again and I stop precisely when 12 comes to my changing index now I'm ready to set in my next number which is 87 I want to pass it twice going to the right or clockwise and stop the third time it comes to the changing index there's once almost immediately remember we're going to pass it twice that's the second time we're going to stop the third time that 87 comes to the changing index there we are precisely if we go past it when we meant to stop on it even by a fraction of a number we start all over again at least four times left to the first number of the combination we've set it correctly so we can move on to the third number of our combination which is 22 we'll pass it once and stop the second time it comes to the changing index there's once almost immediately we pass it once we stop the second it comes to the changing index there we are precisely on 22 if we go past it when we mean to stop on it even by a fraction of a number we begin the combination changing sequence all over again beginning four times left to the first number of our combination once we've set in the last number successfully we turn the dial back to the right about ten numbers you don't have to be precise we're just taking two parts that we're in touch with each other inside of the lock out of contact with each other so that as we go to the other side of the safe door and turn the change key back if we move something slightly bump it as far as the dial is concerned we won't alter the combination that we've set in from the inside of the safe turn the change key clockwise 90 degrees you'll feel a little resistance once it's turned 90 degrees then pull it out don't pull at the same time you're turning turn it and then pull it straight out your combination is set into the lock your change key is removed a combination change is not complete until you check your combination and you need to check it low and high you remember when we had the cover off of our lock the color of our lever was a yellowish metal it's brass when we see a brass lever and a lock that tells us that our dialing tolerance or in other words how much we can dial lower than or higher then the set combination number is one half of a number and the lock should still open if we had seen a gray or a silver colored metal lever then our dialing tolerance would be plus and minus one full number so we're going to check our combination of 1280 720 to 1/2 number low and 1/2 number high we turn the dial left at least four complete revolutions and then we will stop when eleven and a half come to our opening index we reverse directions remember 87 was our second number we pass it once we pass it twice on the third time we want to stop 1/2 number lower than 87 so we're going to stop at 86 and 1/2 at the opening index and now we'll dial to the last number we died left two times 2:22 there's once we stop the second time we're going to stop 1/2 number lower so we stop at 21 and 1/2 we then dial back to the right we feel resistance at about 6 or 7 on the dial we keep turning to the right and our dial comes to a positive stop at about 96 97 possibly 98 we can verify that our combination lock is unlocked by operating the safes handle we've successfully dialed our combination numbers 1/2 number low the next step is you might expect will be to dial our combination numbers 1/2 number high we turn the dial left at least four complete revolutions and stop when our first number plus 1/2 comes to our opening index first number is 12 we had 1/2 12 and 1/2 with in reverse directions remember our second number is 87 so we dialed 87 and a half the third time that it comes to the opening index this is twice here is the third time for 87 and 1/2 with in reverse directions again we dial to the left remember our last number is 22 so we're going to dial to 22 and 1/2 the second time it comes to the opening index this is our second time 22 and 1/2 then as we dialed back to the right we feel a little resistance at about 7 or 8 we keep turning to the right the dial comes to a positive stop in about 10 more numbers and now we can verify that our lock is unlocked by again checking the handle as we did before as we saw early on in this installation our safe has a real active ice which is a spring-loaded plunger and we've got it held in check with a pair of vise grips but under normal operating conditions we need a plate that is attached to the cover screw locations of the lock case and that will hold the real active ice in check well it wouldn't make sense to leave our vice grips there and I would it in case a burglar performs a punching attack on the safe when the lock cover breaks due to the punching the relock device holding plate will come away with a lock cover and it will allow the spring-loaded plunger to engage the bolt work and the safe and the safe will be re secured there are a couple of things we need to watch out for first of all the original cover screws in the lock case have tapered heads well it won't do to try and use a tapered head screw against the flat surface of our real active ice plate what we'll do is we'll replace the taper head screw with a slightly longer screw that has a flat head where it contacts the real active ice plate remember we're going to use the longer screw because first of all we have to traverse an area of the lock case which is tapered to accept the original cover screw also we have a slight thickness in the real active ice plate itself once we have our real active ice plate installed and tighten down at the cover screw locations of the lock using the slightly longer 832 machine screws we can release our vice grips that held our real active ice in check it's now being held in check by the real active ice plate which is attached to the lock cover so now if our lock was open we'd be able to move the bolt work back and forth free of any restraint from the real active ice it's a good idea once we've installed the real active ice plate to dial our combination from the front of the safe retract the lock bolt check the motion of our bolt work a few times and if everything is working satisfactorily it's time to put the back plate on the door this safe has a very easy to replace back plate there slots in the door frame corresponding hooks in the back plate so once you get those lined up you can slide the back plate into place and then you have one screw location at the top so we install that single screw once you do that the back plate cannot slide up come off the door and there's even a decorative cap that goes over the top of that screw so now we have everything in place we can unblock the door and the last thing we need to do is check our combination again with the door open before we close the safe and we enter our combination one last time 22 is our last number we come back to the right we feel a little resistance keep turning to the right our dial stops at about 96 or 97 we check the handle make sure that our lock operates correctly and this is really the final check we need to do before closing the safe operating it one more time and then our installation is complete you

Channel: sargentandgreenleaf1

Views: 267,214

Rating: 4.7046309 out of 5

Keywords: Sargent & Greenleaf, S&G, 6730, safe, safe lock, combination, combination lock, safe dial, mechanical safe lock, torque adjuster, dial ring alignment, combination setting, combination changing

Id: mjmLG8tNfWQ

Length: 30min 36sec (1836 seconds)

Published: Thu May 03 2012

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