This is the home of the Dogon, an
ethnic group indigenous to eastern Mali. Steep cliffs dominate
the landscape. Villages were carved out of
the rock here in the 15th century. A decade ago, this area was
the top tourist destination in Mali. But ever since 2016... jihadists
have wielded control in the region. This area is now the most
dangerous in the country. Neither the Malian nor French
military has a presence here. Armed men at security check
points like this are a rare sight. This is for our protection
because thereâs no army here. Our driver, Modibo, knows
his way around the area. He used to drive tourists here. Howâs your family? Allâs well... Thanks! Thank God! These civilians patrol the
entrance to the Dogon territory. Weâve passed several
checkpoints along the way. Jihadists are constantly
trying to infiltrate the area, so every vehicle is searched. Only local residents are
allowed to pass through. Weâre now in Songho. Thereâs
a training camp for hunters here. Theyâre training
right now... here. These men are dressed in the
traditional uniform of the Dozo, a secretive brotherhood of
initiated hunters and warriors. Armed with knives
and old hunting rifles, the men are highly
respected in the area. They wear amulets believed
to have magical powers that make them invisible
and even bullet-proof. Stand at attention! Now right. The Dozo have formed a militia. Attention! Now left. Many in the village have joined
the Dozo to fight the jihadists. The Dozo are part of the most
powerful militia in the region â Dan Na Ambassagou, with
about a thousand soldiers. Their leader is Youssouf Toloba.
He doesnât often show his face. Fearing assassination, he
seeks safety in the rocky cliffs. Commander Marteau
takes us to him. Weâre headed to Kassa. Youâll
see where we were attacked. There are many jihadists there. Have a good trip. Thanks. Marteau and his men
regularly patrol the cliffs. This is the last stronghold
against the jihadists and must be
defended at all costs. The jihadists burned down the
villages. More than 12 were destroyed. They stole money and killed many people.
Then they burned down all the houses, the storage facilities...
They took all the animals. Although their homes are
just 20 kilometers away, Marteau and his men only see
their families three times a year. We donât stay in the city. We can last a long time
out here â three, four months. We donât even return
to the village for a day. Marteau is 25 years old. Ten years ago, he dropped out
of school to join the Dozo and fight. Three-minute break! These men are between
25 and 60 years old. They used to lead peaceful
lives, as farmers and herders. Then the jihadists came. We do this because itâs our only
option. Theyâve destroyed our country. Iâm a herder. The jihadists took all
our animals. We have nothing left. I was a student in Quran school. They drove us out and
burned all the Qurans. Thereâs no mosque anymore.
They took all the prayer rugs. They even took our burial mats. But weâre still here so they
havenât destroyed everything. The state doesnât understand
whatâs going on here! Is that normal? Are we not a part of this nation? We,
the land of the Dogon? Of course we are! Weâre at war. No matter what
happens, weâre in this until the end. We were granted special access
to spend a few days with these men. Theyâll do everything they can
to defend the land of the Dogon, this small territory
in the Sahel. The Sahel region stretches across
Africa, from the savanna to the desert. Home to both farmers
and nomadic herders. The region spans eight
countries, all plagued by terrorism. Especially prevalent in Mali. Under the banner of Al-Qaeda
in the Islamic Maghreb, a coalition of jihadist groups
came together in 2017. With its growing influence
in the heart of Mali, the group wants to
impose Sharia law. ...And the Malian army is
ill-equipped to stop them. Known for its corruption
and indiscipline, the military is failing to
halt the jihadists' advance... despite the thousands
of French soldiers who have been providing support
and training in the Sahel for a decade. Repeated coups have
weakened the Malian government and left large parts of
the country neglected. The Dogon have formed
self-defense groups, but without the presence
of state authorities, old tensions between farmers
and herders are resurfacing. When animals are left to roam,
disputes often erupt over grazing areas. Thereâs constant conflict. The jihadists exploit these
tensions to attract new recruits. We spoke with four people
who regretted signing up. Everything you do
requires their approval. You have to do things
you don't want to do. They forcefully
indoctrinate you. The only country in the Sahel to
successfully hold back the jihadists... ...is Mauritania. The nationâs military is
hunting jihadists down both on the ground
and in the air... with the help of
counterinsurgency aircraft. Donât let the fourth one escape! Donât worry, I wonât! Mauritania is using
traditional methods as well: Soldiers on camels,
gathering intel in the desert. Hello. We donât want your
sheep â we need information. A journey through the Sahel, which has
become home to international jihadists. In Mali, 60% of jihadist attacks are carried out in the
center of the country. Jihadists have surrounded
the Dogon territory, but the cliffs form
a natural barrier. They prevent the jihadists from
reaching the plateau and the big cities. In the cliffs, the Dan Na Ambassagou
is the only militia mounting a resistance. Commander Marteau and his men
are fighting in a hostile environment. Temperatures can reach 45
degrees Celsius in the shade. The vegetation is sparse...
as is the food supply. It's not yet ripe. In wintertime,
we don't have anything else to eat. The Dozo rely on support from
villagers who climb the steep cliffs to deliver supplies.
Bashir is one of them. Glory... Respect. Glory to you. They touch their hands to the ground
in greeting, a sign of utmost respect. Bashir brings the hunters food. He returned to his home region
a year ago to support the fighters. We need water. Give them water. Hereâs the water, chief. We havenât eaten
anything since yesterday. We havenât found anything since
dinner yesterday. Weâre hungry. Weâre going to change that. Yes. Weâll feed you. Iâm counting on you. But before they sit down to eat... A guard there. ...Commander Marteau
stations guards around the camp. Come over here... Yes.
There are many jihadists there. Some 30 jihadist units
operate on the plains below. The closest one is
only a kilometer away. From this vantage point, weâre
able to see when they climb up â even without binoculars. That's
why we're here. Weâll clean the rifles. Are these army rifles? No, we found them with the
jihadists. We shot at them. They died and we
took their weapons. The Dozo receive no aid from the Malian
government or from international troops. Yes, operational commander!
Whatâs your location? Whenever he reaches a crest in
the mountain, Marteau calls Toloba, the leader of the militia,
for further instruction. Yes, the first camp, yes...
OK! Thank you very much. OK, letâs eat now. Here, mealtime is holy. The men eat their food in silence...
without putting down their weapons. Thank you very much. Letâs go. About 50 units like this one patrol
the cliffs. One of them is Tolobaâs. This war leader stays
constantly on the move because heâs the jihadistsâ main
target. He avoids media attention, but with the urging of an intermediary,
he finally agreed to talk to us. Tell him that youâre the only
reason I came this morning. I had no intention of coming. I donât even meet up with people
from my village â you can ask them. They see me when I
pass by, but that's it. Toloba left the Malian
army twenty-five years ago to fight the Tuareg
Rebellion in northern Mali. When the jihadists
started gaining ground, he returned to the
Dogon territory in 2016 and founded the Dan
Na Ambassagou militia. All the hunters you see here are
Malians. There arenât any foreigners. The government doesnât give
us weapons. Weâre in our caves. And when jihadists come by, we
kill them and take their weapons. The army doesnât help us, France
doesnât help us, no one helps us. But the locals are on our side. To this day, Toloba and his hunters
have managed to maintain control of the cliffs. But the jihadists have carried
out several devastating raids over the years. Since 2016, twelve villages have
been pillaged in the commune, Kassa. They burned down everything. The moment they got here, they
gathered all they could and burned it. See? What did they burn? Kitchen utensils... and motorcycles
over there. They took the animals. The jihadists gave the
villagers a cruel ultimatum. Either comply and pay the Islamic
tax or watch their homes be pillaged. That was all destroyed and
then rebuilt. There was millet... Everything was decimated. Moussa Tolo is the deputy mayor of
Kassa. Heâs helping residents rebuild. There was millet and onion planted
here... everything was destroyed. They stole everything they
could and burned the rest. The jihadists want to destroy
everything thatâs at odds with their fundamentalist
interpretation of Islam. In 2012, they destroyed
mausoleums and tombstones of Muslim saints in Timbuktu
â World Heritage sites. They also smashed tribal
art, including these statuettes. There are countless
such treasures in Mali. Many here believe that
natural objects have souls. The cliff is the last line of
defense against the jihadists. There are only a few routes
that lead to the plateau. Marteau and his men
risk their lives defending it. You see this? Packaging of the ammunition.
And they were eating cookies... Jihadists tried to enter
this way five months ago. They ate here. And
they attacked us. You were up there? Yes, we were up there,
and they were below. How many? About one hundred.
We had about 24 men. At dusk, the Dozo climb to
the summit to watch for jihadists who might try to enter
through this access point. This is where Marteauâs
unit was stationed. The attack stretched
on for six hours. Our team was here, yes. They
ran and came with a rocket launcher and many other weapons and ammunition.
They have more resources than we do. Anyone from your side injured? There were casualties. There were? Yes, injuries and deaths. Really? Yes. Marteau lost seven
men during the attack. But we will never surrender. Even
if we have to sacrifice our lives, weâll do it together. Because this is our home, our
territory, the land of the Dogon. If we had to leave our land, where
would we go? The military isnât coming. What else can we do?
Thereâs no other choice. Weâre exhausted, but
weâre not backing down. Iâve never backed down
since the day I was born. That's why they call me
Marteau. That means hammer. The little hammer
hits the big stone. The Dozo set up camp. They have to be especially
careful at night to avoid being seen. The villager, Bashir,
is back with dinner. The stove needs to go here so you
can't see the fire, from any distance. Light is forbidden at night. If we want
to smoke, we have to hide, like this. Iâve got to hurry. You see that?
Thatâs how they sleep. Right on top of the boulders... Always. ...weapon in hand. We arrive in Kassa. The main town here continues
to be a target for jihadist raids. As is customary, the Dozo
must remove their hunting clothes and magical amulets
before entering. For more than a year, children in
Kassa havenât been able to attend school. Teachers fled
after the last attack. The classrooms are used as
temporary housing for the hunters. Marteau is meeting with
Moussa Tolo, the deputy mayor. Hi! Hello! How are you? Howâs everyone?
All good, no issues? Everyoneâs fine. God bless you. You
are our sole protectors. You are the guardians
of the fatherland. The jihadists have tried
to attack Kassa six times. Thanks to Marteau and the Dozo,
theyâve havenât been successful. Does the government not listen to
you? Donât they know whatâs happening? The government
knows whatâs happening. But theyâre afraid to come here
because the area is overrun with jihadists. Theyâre scared. Even the
mayorâs not here. He stays in Koro. Moussa Tolo is the only
government official here who has not deserted his
post. When his superiors fled, he turned to the traditional
spiritual leader, Hogon... ...to discuss the communityâs
economic and security problems. They took all the
grazing livestock. What do they do with
the animals they steal? I have no clue what they do. They probably eat them after
theyâve stolen them... or sell them. As farmers, our fortune lies
in our oxen, goats, and sheep. We have nothing more. An ox costs six times the monthly
wage of the average Malian. With 68 million cattle, Mali supplies
most of the beef in the region, exporting to Senegal, Ivory
Coast, and Burkina Faso. But the conflict has destabilized
this important economic pillar. And itâs made it harder
to source nutritious food. The 25,000 people who live in
Dogonâs largest town, Bandiagara, have been especially
devastated by the scarcity of meat. Butchers at the market
donât have much to do. The meat shortage has driven
up prices... 25% in three years. That's three
thousand CFA francs. Three thousand francs. A kilo of red meat costs
three thousand CFA now. That's the equivalent of four
euros sixty cents per kilogram. Two daysâ pay here. With all the hardships facing locals,
butchers are barely making a profit. We used to make a lot of money.
Now we don't earn anything. We don't want to stop working.
Thatâs the way it is right now. Half of the butcher shops in
the market have shut down. But Amadou TraorĂŠ keeps going. His father, Kamia, is the
president of the butchers' guild. Itâs a family business, passed
down from father to son since 1942. But theyâve never
experienced a crisis like this. Before the war, Amadou
bought about twenty cattle a week. Heâs been looking to buy
cattle for five days now... And heâs finally
found one for sale. How much for that one there? 390,000. Could you go down a bit? 385,000 is the minimum. A bit lower... Iâll do it for three
hundred ten thousand... 315,000... 325, OK? 380,000! The trader isnât budging. He already took on a considerable
risk by buying the cattle. He canât afford to sell
the animals for a low price. It was also very expensive
out where we bought them. If you don't buy them,
someone else will. The journey is
difficult and risky. Risky? Itâs extremely risky. There are
many dangers along the way. But we go out searching
for cattle anyway. There arenât many animals
left, theyâre impossible to find. We only find single cattle now. The other day I drove over 26
kilometers and only found these here. The conflict has to end. Thatâs the only way? Itâs the only way! We just want peace. Everyone must
come to the table and negotiate peacefully. Then things could go
back to the way they were. If Amadou TraorĂŠ can no
longer afford to purchase cattle, he might have to close up shop. Heâs part of the Fulani ethnic
group, traditionally nomadic herders, theyâre facing increasing harassment
by farmers, jihadists, and the military. Most Fulani are semi-nomadic. In the dry season, they migrate
with their herds to southern pastures. But ever since
the war broke out, the state stopped managing
the traditional migration routes. As a result, the cattle
are wiping out crops... igniting conflict between
farmers and herders. When animals are left to roam, disputes
often erupt over the grazing areas. Thereâs constant conflict.
For some time now, the administration has been putting
the Fulani under a great deal of pressure. They take you away and lock you
up. Herders hate being confined. A herder would pay
a million to avoid it. Malian judges are often corrupt and
order herders to pay astronomical fines. As resentments started to build, a Fulani man saw an opportunity
to recruit his people as jihadists. His name: Amadou Kouffa. He called his group Katibat
Macina. Referring to the golden age in the 19th century when the Fulani
and the Massina empire ruled central Mali. Iâd like to thank God for
allowing me to live to see the day when thousands of
Fulani join the jihadists to fight on this divine
path to martyrdom. Amadou Kouffa started out
as a preacher in the 1990s. At the time, audio tapes of his
sermons were popular among the Fulani. A fresh stream of recruits
allowed Amadou Kouffa's group to expand its
influence in central Mali. The town of Mopti lies at the
junction of the Niger and Bani rivers. Itâs a strategic place of trade
between northern and southern Mali. Since 2019, the river separates
Mopti from jihadist-controlled areas. Trade between the
two sides continues, although Sharia law is in
full force on the other side. Now, when women cross the
river, they must wear a black hijab. They face beatings. The punishment
for stealing is losing a hand or a foot. Four former jihadists who used to live
across the river agreed to meet with us. All four are Fulani and
say they joined the jihadists because they were persecuted. This former herder says
his village was invaded by the Malian army and
attacked by Dozo hunters. They say that all Fulani are
jihadists, but thatâs not true. They attack our villages, killing
women, small children, 2 or 3-year-olds who can't defend themselves, and
even old women who can't use a gun. Were any of your
relatives killed? Yes. Those who sign up to fight must
acquire their own weapon and motorcycle. Some spend up to
1,800 euros on gear. They force you to hold your
hands like this while praying. Were you asked to
convert to salafism? Yes... I myself am Maliki. They wanted me to convert,
but I refused. So I left the group. Malikism has been
practiced here for centuries. Unlike Salafism, it advocates
a tolerant reading of the Quran. Salafism was brought
to Mali in the 1980s by preachers from
the Gulf nations. These four men were
disappointed the jihadist life wasnât what theyâd envisioned, so they returned home to live
alongside their former neighbors, of various ethnicities. When I returned home, the
Dogon were initially scared of me. But after some time, my
neighbors were no longer afraid. They now look at me as if I did nothing
wrong. Theyâve gotten used to me. The Fulani and the Dogon
will always need each other. To cultivate the fields, to
build houses, to dig wells: That's what the Dogon do best. Livestock farming is
the Fulaniâs expertise. Hundreds of thousands of Fulani
have left central Mali due to persecution, especially by Malian soldiers. Some have found refuge
in neighboring countries... ...including in Mauritania, the
most stable state in the Sahel. Some 67,000 people live
in the Mbera refugee camp. Most of them are Tuareg who fled
jihadists in northern Mali in 2012. The newest arrivals, however,
are all Fulani... like chief, Birgui Sow. A year ago, he fled his village after
being threatened by a Malian soldier. The soldier said to me: I swear
to you and I will not say it twice. I heard the Fulani are killing
us, jihadists are killing us. So weâre going to
kill all the Fulani. I called someone
at the judicial district. He told us to stay home
and no one would hurt us. But no officials to his
calls for help seriously. The military returned to
the village the next Friday. First, they surrounded us.
That was between 1 and 2 pm. Then they invaded the village.
They attacked everyone there. They went into the rooms and
dragged sick people out of their homes. They killed seven people. The Fulani were terrified. Birgui helped send one
thousand families to Mauritania. People live in peace
here. I thank God for that. Right now, I wouldn't even go
back if they chartered a plane. Weâll never forget what they
did to us. They murdered people. Birgui and his fellow
villagers will not go back to Mali without a guarantee of safety. In Mauritania, refugees receive
food from the United Nations. They can lead some
semblance of a normal life: Theyâre allowed to farm
land, raise their animals. ...and even go to school. Caring for the population
in order to win them over is part of the Mauritanian
government's strategy. After a dozen jihadist attacks, Mauritania massively
restructured its military. Itâs now considered the most
professional in the region. One of Mauritania's
main air bases is in Atar, at the edge of
the Sahara Desert. The planes parked on the tarmac
seem to be from another age, like this antique from the 1950s... or
these Brazilian-produced fighter planes. They may look rudimentary, but
theyâre perfectly suited for the war here. Colonel Taleb
leads this squadron. This is the Super Tucano. This aircraft
doubles our range and is powerful. Weâre also able to attach
different types of weapons to it. We have two built-in
twelve point sevens, as well as electric machine
guns and rocket launchers... We can use
seventy-millimeter rockets. Thatâs for vehicles? Yes, thatâs for vehicles. What weapon
we choose often depends on the target. One advantage to these
fighter planes is theyâre agile and able to land on uneven
runways in the middle of the desert. But first, the Air Force has to
pinpoint the enemyâs location. Thatâs where this
reconnaissance aircraft comes in. This Cessna Caravan
is constantly monitoring the two thousand-kilometer
border Mauritania shares with Mali. ...A total of 450,000
kilometers of desert. Lieutenant Youssouf
operates the sensors. He controls the high-resolution cameras
with a range of up to 20 kilometers. The Malian border is lined
with terrorists â Al-Qaeda. There are smugglers
of every kind... for drugs, weapons,
gold. All kinds of things. In their eyes, jihadists and
black-market traders are closely linked. The country, among the poorest in
the world, has spared no expense here. Each surveillance system
costs one million US dollars and makes it possible to search
the ground in all conditions. Itâs foggy on the ground. We
use infrared in situations like this. Thatâs based on
temperature, not visibility. With the help of
the heat sensors, Lieutenant Youssouf can see the
imprint of the vehicles in the sand â even several hours after
theyâve traveled a given route. Check that out â those
are tracks from cars. Thatâs impossible to
see with the naked eye. That shows thereâs
activity â look. The desert is not as empty as it
seems. Nomads pitch their tents here. And gold panners mine gold,
which is abundant in the region. This is one of the trucks thatâs
used for transporting supplies. When he spots weapons, Lieutenant
Youssouf alerts the command. High-ranking officers
order the raids. Over the past three years, Colonel
Taleb and the pilots at the Atar base have intercepted 25 pick-up
trucks from smugglers or jihadists. We obtained exclusive footage
from a mission in January 2019. Found them. OK. Aim for the last one,
before they can see you. Zero in on the
last one and strike. On this day, the Mauritanian
army destroy four jihadist trucks. Hold on, Iâll shoot
the fourth one. Donât let it escape! Donât worry, I wonât! Mauritania's ground troops
have also been restructured. In 2009, the state formed a
Special Intervention Group â units specializing
in counterterrorism. Eight units of 200 men each,
guard the border with Mali. Attention! Are you ready to
fight? To your posts! This platoon of 80 soldiers
sets out on a three-day patrol. Their trucks are fitted
with heavy machine guns. They cover 18,000
square kilometers. The off-road vehicles cover
as much ground as possible, stopping every 500 meters. Every bush could be a potential
hiding place for the enemy. Move, move, move... give your
comrade the signal to follow you. Tell him to weave between
the trees and move fast! To fight the jihadists, the army
also relies on human intelligence. Hey, come here. The herders are constantly
crossing the savanna... A valuable source
of information. Seen anyone new? No one. All well with you? Yes, thank God. Thank God. OK,
youâre free to go. Jihadists would not go
unnoticed by the nomads. To gain their trust, the military
brings them medicine every month. When the military comes to a
village, this is how theyâre greeted. Theyâre given a warm welcome
of brotherhood, friendship and love. Over the past 12 years, the
special intervention groupsâ presence has radically changed life for many
residents, including this cattle owner. Ever since the army arrived,
the animal thefts have stopped. Nothing more has been
stolen, not even a rooster! And we can sleep at night now.
Look, our cows can roam as they please. No more theft. The Mauritanian government
doesnât just focus on security. They also want to avoid
whatâs happened in Mali, where many residents
feel left behind... Thatâs why the government in
Mauritania started a citizen police force in the most remote
parts of the country... ...where men travel by camel. 25 soldiers are preparing for an
expedition spanning several days. Theyâre under the
command of Colonel el-Khalil. Last sip before you go? Yes, some water before
leaving. We have to recharge. This will keep me going
the whole day, until midday. Three sips? Of course. A real camel driver
can last the whole day on that. With just three sips? I can guarantee that
with two liters of water â at the most â I can make it 24
hours. Not to mention the camels! With two canteens full of water, they can manage up to 10
days in the middle of the desert. Although camels can cover 65 kilometers
in a day and carry 400 kilograms, theyâre stubborn animals and
can be difficult to maneuver. To be part of the camel cavalry, itâs required to be a nomad and have
a thorough knowledge of the region, its people, and dialects. Youâve been doing this long? Yes. How many years? I used to do it... yes. The menâs most important
job is to form relationships with the locals and
listen to their problems. How are you, where
are you coming from? Iâm getting water. From where? The drilling well? The biggest concern
here is the water supply. Isn't Hsey el-Ghabra closer? Iâve come from there. Thereâs no water? No. Darn, the waterâs out. A water shortage can quickly
lead to conflict among farmers. The colonel passes
on the information. Letâs keep moving...
forward... letâs go. This is all part of their mission,
just like their intelligence operations. Hello. We donât want your
sheep, we need information. The men ask the same
questions at every encounter. Is the well working, and has
there been any suspicious activity? He says everything is normal,
nothing out of the ordinary. All right, you can
go. Thereâs no water. No water? Thereâs a well up ahead. Further ahead? Thereâs a well in front there.
Thatâs where weâll set up camp. The camel riding unit is
responsible for maintaining the wells. In recent years, the Mauritanian
government and the European Union have financed the drilling
of hundreds of new wells. A policy thatâs
proven effective. Have you ever reported
the presence of jihadists? Yes, of course. There have been several
cases we informed the authorities about. Some turned out to
be ordinary citizens, but in other cases they were really
terrorists. Anything can happen. When you see suspicious
activity, you report it straight away. Another benefits of these wells:
Locals can stay in these desert areas, which might otherwise become
a haven for jihadists from Mali.
Feel free to crosspost to /r/Sahel