RZR ROLL CAGE BUILD - Extreme UTV Tech EP3

on this episode of extreme UTV tech we're going to be building a roll cage for this 1000cc raiser all right so we're going to show you guys today how to build a roll cage we're going to use this Polaris RZR 1000 and we're going to start off with a design then we're going to go through the tube bending we're going to go into notching and welding all the way through the whole process so stay tuned because this one's going to be a good one so the first thing that we have to do is come up with a design so Matt tell us a little bit about why you're building a roll cage and what design you want out of this roll cage okay as I've gotten into racing probably one of the first things I really wanted to do but I haven't had the ability until now is a roll cage because the factory ones they're a lot better now than they were when they first started building them but they're still not up to snuff when it comes to the high speed racing that we're trying to do so I definitely want something that's lightweight because the lighter it is the faster it's going to be so I want it lightweight but we want to keep it fairly strong as well okay so what we're gonna do is we're going to use an O 95 d om tubing because it's a very strong tubing but it's also lightweight it's going to give you what you want for that perspective the next thing that we're going to do is we're going to put you in the razor put a helmet on you and then we're going to measure from your helmet up to the top so we know we have the right roll cage clearance alright Matt now that you're in the buggy we want to take a look and see basically what the difference is between the top of your head and this roll cage so let's take a quick measurement you've got seven and a half inches and we won't have about two inches of clearance so we're going to chop this cage about five and a half to six inches one thing else that we're going to do if you look at the way this bar comes off the top its directly above his head so what we're going to do is we're going to take that bar and rotate it outwards so that it comes from this point down to this point your a point and B point Pilar's and that's going to keep that roll cage off his head a little bit more you feel pretty comfortable right there okay all right good do the first step that we're going to do is we're going to take all the old bolts out of this cage and move it off to the side now that we have the roll cage off you want to top this open right here there's another screw 13 millimeter go ahead and take it off and pull your doors completely off both sides one of the things that we normally do when we have a razor roll cage is we cut these feet off what I'll do is I'll chop the tubing here chop the tubing there bolt this one to that one put it in the lathe and basically cut that weld out the reason that I do that is because the factory mounts right here have a hole that go through them so that you can run your speaker wires if you want to put a radio on now super a TV sells these right here these are replacements and they already have a hole drilled you can get these from Berkey racing or straight from super ATV all right once you get all your cage feet bolted on you're going to have to take some measurements so what we're going to do is we're going to measure from this point at this point we're going to take that measurement we're going to write it down once we have that measurement and now that we know the length basically what we're going to do is create a box on paper and we're going to figure out what our angles are going to be to come from this point to that point and connect the dots right the next thing that you're going to need whenever you're building roll cage is just an angle finder I got this little one from Harbor Freight works perfectly fine you're going to have to get the angle of the front a pillar as it comes off the razor once you get that angle then you're going to use a protractor take that angle and you're going to transition it either over to your garage floor or some sketch paper once you get the point where you're actually going to take that and run that angle up you know what the point is because you've taken the measurement between the a pillar right here and the B pillar right here once you take your angle and you run it up run it up until you get the height of the cage that you measured in the first video once you get the height of the cage you can figure out exactly what your angles are going to be to create the full box using your protractor a straight edge your garage floor white paper or you can download computer software called Ben tech that works really well for a beginner it's phenomenal if you've been doing it for a time you get to the point where you can probably knock this stuff out pretty quick so the next thing that we're going to do is we're going to get the length of all this tubing and then we're going to go over to show you exactly where to make the bends so if you've just got your bender and you're trying to figure out how to build a roll cage or even if you have a banner and you've been building roll cages one of the best things I found to help me out with building is taking a number pieces of tubing and bending them to different angles so what I've got here is a 45 a 90 I got a 30 I got a 15 I got a 10 and what I do with those is I go up to my roll cage I find the spot where the bend starts and if you look real close there's actually a little bit of an indentation that's where the bends going to start and that's where you put the mark on the bender you can walk up to your roll cage if you have that mark and you know what the angle is and just take your piece of tubing put it up next to the other piece of tubing and Mark out where your bend needs to start so here in a second we're going to pan over here and I'm going to show you how to do that all right so what we did was we put our angle finder on this bar right here and what we do is we go from here all the way over to here from you're a pillar D or B pillar and I draw a straight line once you know that line and you know exactly how tall the roll cage needs to be because we took a measurement earlier from our occupants head now what we're going to do is we're going to take our thin we know what degree we need to choose because we've already plotted it out over there on the board and we're going to take that mark and we're going to transfer it over onto our tubing once we once we transfer that mark I know that if I start that Bend right there and roll that piece of tubing down it's going to end up at the right elevation above the occupants head and the exact spot where we plan on but what you can tell is that I've got these marks and this is going to be consistent with every bender that you use that's a draw bender style if you look inside the die you'll notice after you bend a couple pieces of tubing that they'll be a mark that mark is where that piece of tubing rolls on the die and that's going to be the start point so if you know that that start point is right here on that blue mark that's basically where those two blue marks are going to run so the next thing that you're going to have to do take your piece tubing slides inside the bender line up your two marks and start your first Bend now that I've got the tubing in the bender and I've got a little bit of clamping force on it so it won't rotate you're going to have to use a rotation gage put it on the tubing and clamp it down because all of our measurements and all of our angles and all of our bends are going to come off of that particular first Bend so you need to know what the rotation of the of the tubing is so that you can make rotation bends on plane or off plane in this case in this case all of our bends are going to be on the same plane so I'm going to set this up for zero degrees on this particular bender we're bending going up some benders go to the side on this particular vendor you have to take into account the slope of the tubing coming off the back of the bender so in this particular case I have four degrees of slope going down which is going to subtract from my total angle up here on the front so up here on the front my target is 45 degrees I have 45 Plus this is going down at 4 degrees add 4 degrees at 49 degrees is what our total bends going to be now every tubing has a certain amount of snap back it's basically the paperclip theory when you bend a paper clip and let it go it kind of snaps back a little bit tubing does the same thing each style tubing each size tubing is going to have a different snap back in this case a do M tubing of this size the o95 of the 120 wall usually runs about 2 to 3 degrees so we're going to try to take our measurement if it's off then we'll go to 3 don't always what you don't want to bend too much 51 degrees all right now that I got my helper over here helping me out we're going to take the measurement that we got earlier and we're going to make sure that that tubing is sitting right where it needs to be to give them the proper head clearance so we're sitting exactly where we need to go but what you notice is that we have a 5 degree slope coming down so if you take that 5 degrees coming down and then you take a measurement off of your b-pillar we're at 72 so I know that I'm going to have to be more than 9 degrees to be able to make this bend up instead of doing it in one big swoop and coming way back I'm going to do it in two it's going to make a nice little smooth transition from the b-pillar back to the a-pillar now that we have our tubing mark for our second Bend I went ahead and lined up my die mark with my tube mark then set my rotation gage to zero so I know that both these bends are going to be on the same plane next thing I'm going to do is make my second Bend which happens to these 69 degrees which is the 5 degrees minus the second sweep that I'm going to do so we're going to bend this to 69 degrees and going to get our third Bend alright so now that we have our first bar bent all the way around we've got our first Bend right here second Bend right here third Bend right here what we did was we set it up on the razor and basically took a side view of it got down and looked at it as best we could and we found out what our elevation was over the driver's head and we made a mark exactly where we're going to cut this thing to drop it into the race so if you look at the end of this tubing you can see we're actually ground it down at an angle put a little chamfer on there and the reason I did that was so that I could get solid weld penetration between the piece of tubing and the a-pillar all right so we got the first bar bent it looks really good we've actually got a good gap right here we could well up the gap right here we're going to weld up so everything looks nice and smooth we've got the elevation that we want for the driver now what we have to do is we have to repeat everything that we just did so we're going to use this as a template and we're going to set it on the ground and transfer all of our measurements over to another piece of tubing all right take your two pieces of tubing set them side-by-side now that you have the market which you started your first Bend all you have to do is transfer that mark over to your new piece of tubing then you're going to bend the same angle once you get that done you're going to set this one on top of this one take that mark put it on this piece of tubing and keep on doing the process until you're all the way down okay so now you can see that the two bars are bent identically you've got the top bar which is our second bar matching the first bar and what we're going to do is we're going to cut it off so it's the same length any time you're bending tubing and you have two different pieces of tubing whether it's left side right side front or back as long as you make it to where it's mirrored you know that everything is going to line up perfectly and everything is going to be square in the end alright now that we have our two main bars into place we're going to do a couple structural bars to hold everything together we took a measurement between the two bars we're at 35 and a half inches we're going to take a piece of tubing cut it off do two notches set it up inside here then we're going to hold everything together and move it back and forth until everything is square before we tack it up so the next thing that we did was you took a measurement on the backside of the roll cage came up to thirty nine and a quarter inches so I've got a mark here and Mark here that's thirty nine and a quarter inches I found the center of this piece of tubing and then what I did was I came over and took those two marks and line them up so that this mark is sitting where it needs to be on the inside of the cage of that mark sitting on the inside of the cage where it needs to be that's what these little pieces of tubing come in handy because I know exactly where my bend is going to start and stop and on exactly how far back I want this to sit so basically what I can do is I can project where that tube is going to intersect over here on this top bar and then I can project exactly how far out I need to make this mark so take a tape measure will come out here measure out about nine and three quarters and do the same thing and that's what we're going to start our Bend so that we know that it's going to kick out and go straight back on the other yeah okay so what we did was we went ahead and put all the bars inside the cage for the top to make the box and what we're doing is we're using ratchet straps to hold these two bars in now we can actually rack it back and forth to get it all square before we do our welding this ratchet strap right here is actually pulling the cage left and right these two right here are squeezing it together and we can position everything to where everything is right before we do our fun now we've got the entire main structure tacked together everything is where it's supposed to be we got some heavy tax on it so it's not going to move the next thing that we want to do is go back to these back pieces the reason is is the more points you can get on the chassis tack welded together the less probability of all this stuff moving on so what we do is we take apart that we've already bent and we're going to set it inside here and kind of eyeball exactly where we want it now in this particular case I wanted that Bend to be right about there so that it's going to line up perfectly with a roll cage and then I took a straightedge and came down here to this bottom piece once I got done I transferred the numbers basically directly over this other piece of tubing we've went ahead and made our bends and we're going to go ahead and get it tacked in now we've got the main structure of the cage all tacked together we've squared it up we've taken all our measurements we're happy with everything we're going to go ahead and well the main structure together so that everything is solid once that's done then we're going to start putting all our cross bracing pieces and all our smaller stuff that way whenever we tack weld anything small or all the cross braces it doesn't pull the main structure out of square oh yeah oh yeah the heating and cooling of metal generates a substantial amount of heat you don't want to do weld on the same side of the roll cage one after another what you want to do is start a weld over here and then jump to the other side and do a weld so that any type of contracting from the weld cooling process is it going to rack the roll cage man I feel like a professional when you're welding tubing the goal is to start and go all the way around the tubing in one shot that way the heat distribution goes all the way through the tubing you don't have any cold spots but if you can't do it don't worry about it because I can't early there okay so we just got done welding out the top part of the cage everything stayed square whenever we welded it and the reason we did that was just to hold everything square while we do the next couple pieces if you look we've got this bar running down the bend just a hair so it's lower than the elevation of these other bars we're going to do a flat roof on here so in order to make this piece of tubing go from the back B pillar over here to the front pillar you can see that there's a gap so we're going to have to put a small bend in this piece of tubing so that it raises up and hits perfectly flush and still can cope into this piece right here okay so the last thing that we did was bend these two bars and you can see that as they come down they roll at the same point is these outer bars and what that's going to do is going to give us a nice flat roof all the way across so that when we put our sheet metal on top it's not going to have a bow in it it's not going to rattle as bad now we've added this bar back here for a harness bar and we're going to take two bars small bars from right here and we're going to drop them down in an angle so that any impact coming from the top of the roof is distributed into a number of places you'll hit here it will distribute down through here it'll strip it down through here it'll also bring that load all the way down through here and help triangulate the top of the cage great gage okay okay so as you can see in the back what we did was put our two pieces of straight tubing in so that in a rollover situation those two bars would be under compression that's the strongest way that you can have a bar if you had a hit it would try to be human quit the force down through that bar and distribute the load the next thing that we want to do is want to build a front cage it's going to be good for eyesight so instead of just taking a bar and going straight across what we did was we used a bend they already have you can see our yellow marks there that's where the Bend starts and stops and we use that to gauge exactly where we needed to do our Bend basically where we wanted to start it and stop it so what we did was we made our couple marks out here we're going to make our bends cut the tubing to size and then we're going to do the same thing up front but in the front we're also going to do what we did like in the rear and do some straight bars coming down so that any type of rollover is going to distribute the load and triangulate the front you so how to spend a moment this thing came out awesome we got all of our bars put into exactly where they need to go everything's tacked up you got a welding blankets down we're going to do our final welding once we get our final welding done then we're going to go back and start working on the front and rear bumpers but this thing came out killers okay so if you notice we've got everything welded up and now we're going on with the tabs to hold the seatbelt harnesses on what I did was I just took a flat piece and I went all the way across and I clamped it into place that way it makes it easier to locate these tabs on the same plane one of the other things that we did was took the factory polaris design and the seatbelt harnesses will come over this bar then attach here to these tabs that way any type of force from your body going forward into a crash or anything is trying to compress the tab versus break a weld and rip them off alright guys check this thing out we uh we came up with this little design right here and we think it's going to look really sick we got the driver side all welded up and it's tacked on the frame and tacked on the chassis we had to put some disconnects right here up towards the front so that you can unbolt and pull this front part out but this thing looks absolutely sick so we're gonna do a little take welding on this front piece right here where this disconnect is notch that piece slide it all in place and get it all welded up okay something we wanted to show you guys is these caps that we did over here what we did was we cut this at an angle so that it was flush with the outside of the razor and then we took the outside and we cut a piece of steel out and then put it inside and then TIG weld it all the way around ground it and polished it out to where it's really smooth these things came out killer all right we got the razor cage completely done we added a couple kickers up here in the front and rolled these bars around looks really good if there was any type of branch or anything to hit it would deflect it away from the light it's really solid it's well and really good we put a couple clamps right here so that we can unbolt and slide this thing down and pull it out so we can work on anything up here in the front separately from having to pull the rest of the cage you can get these clamps at Berkey Racing calm or stay from super ATV as well we think the cage came out really good we just had Matt sit in there a second ago and did a couple measurements above his head he's got four inches of clearance even with a helmet on so this thing is just radical and we're really happy with it alright so now we're going to take the razor cage we're going to take the tops of the welds and just grind them smooth so this flat plate will sit on without those welds sticking up and holding it from sitting flush we're going to take the razor cage off flip it right over here in the floor do that then we're going to flip it upside down put it on this plate we're going to weld tabs on the bottom of it to hold this plate on top the next thing that we did was we laid out all our tabs of well done men and we used a transfer punch to go over the top of each hole where the hole was prick straight down it's going to put a little mark on the back side once you get that done and you pull the plate off you'll have a whole bunch of little dots that you can drill and when you drill it'll all be perfectly centered alright guys so we got all of our tabs welded in on this cage and we went ahead and spaced everything out evenly upside-down what it was on the ground but now we're going to take the cage and we're going to bolt the plate on top once we get the plate bolted on top we're going to use this to roll this last edge basically we're going to do is bolt everything together put a couple clamps right here clamp this down and then we're going to put that last row briefs done looks good time to pay alright guys we just got the bumper done and the rear and everything painted and put back on this thing came out killer we really like it everything flows nice and smooth we've got tons of triangulation in the top so it's nice and safe the cage doesn't weigh much more than what the original cage did so we think we did a pretty much a home run on this thing it looks really good so make sure y'all check us out you know we do a whole bunch of stuff like this check out Jake Berkey riot buggy make sure you check out busted knuckle films this is extreme UTV and check out a rock rod series too

Channel: Busted Knuckle Films

Views: 136,370

Keywords: rzr cage chop, rzr cage build, rzr cage, rzr roll cage build, custom rzr cage, rzr 1000 roll cage, rzr roll cage, rzr 1000 cage, rzr 1000 cage chop, how to build a roll cage, how to make a roll cage, how to make a roll bar, roll cage build, roll bar build, how to build a rzr roll cage, how to make a rzr roll cage, how to build polaris rzr roll cage, how to build a custom cage for rzr, rzr roll cage design, busted knuckle films, jake burkey, extreme utv, extreme utv tech

Id: VhbMd31Dvqg

Length: 26min 18sec (1578 seconds)

Published: Thu May 26 2016