Roofing basics - shingling

so now that your section is all ready to go your roof's all dried in ready or at least one section is ready to rock you got your aprons on you got your ice and water got your valley roll in your papery gable end on you are ready to roof so typically starter you're going to need to start your starter it's always a good idea to hang your starter down a little bit we typically hang it down about a half inch three quarter inch how do you get that number if your starters say eight inches you're gonna mark a line from this edge up seven and a half that gives you a half inch hang down whatever your dimension is half inch smaller if you want to hang a half inch then at that point your shingle if your shingles say 13 inches you're going to mark up half inch smaller than the shingle of 13 inches so 12 and a half that'd give you a half inch hang down you want your shingle and your starter to be flushed together but you want them to hang down a little bit and why that's so important is when you have water coming down your rain's coming down you want it to have a lip to run off of and not wick back up under if you run up flush with this you have no room for air if your fascia board goes in and out like that but you also have an area where water is going to sit and it's going to wick up and capillary action whatever you want to call it's going to go up under there it's not good always getting the practice of hanging it down about a half inch three quarter inch starter gable end check with your manufacturer some manufacturers say hang it over a half inch whatever shingle brand you're using look up your manufacturer also high wind area if you're in a high wind region look up your area i don't know where you're watching from you're going to want to hang it over your starter on your gable seal strip up and out you also want to make sure your starter is offset from your first shingle never get within five inches or less this manufacturer here actually says three and a half way too close in my opinion and the slower the slope you want to make sure your staggers are off a little bit further than that so we're going to go ahead and get into building the pattern the lead also where your shingles were so you got your shingle line cracked for your starter and your first shingle typically we do about three lines and then we go up every 22 and a half inches that gives you every fourth row on average an area for your line to hit your shingle to hit so imagine this is your line and it's marked for the tops of your shingles the reason you mark it for the top if you were to mark it to your bottom when you throw this shingle down your head lap is covered your line so you can't mark for the bottoms so that's why you want to mark for the tops of your shingles so every fourth shingle roughly you'll hit that line it gives you a straight section or straight area to roof you know it's going to be good what we typically do and again this is a mock-up board it's way too small to show you we'll mark from the top end down top and down increments 22 and a half then we'll do a little bit of math and find out where we can get our lines for our bottom three rows need at least three rows to be able to stand on and then you can turn around and start roofing up hitting your target lines making sure you're straight um okay so let's get into the pattern some quick basic terminology of the shingle it's a dimensional architectural build up i've heard it called many different things this is the head lap this is the exposure the reveal dragon's tooth sawtooth laminate whatever the back shin or the wedge whatever you want to call it the most important most manufacturers are going to have a line here you need to hit within that line some lower end entry most brands have one line that's where you need to hit why that's important is you have this part and that part there's a common bond it's pretty small right here that's all there is this common bond right here that's where you want your nails to hit if you look here where that is there's a double line this is a certainteed i'm sorry yeah i'm sorry certainty landmark pro they have three lines they really want you to shoot these this lower middle line right here but as long as you get within it they're going to honor it why that's important is on a hot summer day steeper the roof is this seal strips in here get hot and soft and this actually with gravity pulling will slide right out if you're not hitting the common bond it's very important hit your common bond also where your nails are here your next shingle seal strip is going to be bonding right where those nails are if this shingle is pinned down really firm and this one is sealed to it in that area it's not going to go anywhere in the wind if your nails are up high this is sealed down you risk over time it kind of moving and pulling strong winds over the course of time popping your nails right through the mat imagine this is where your nail needs to be that's where it's sealed at there you know right here and then over time if your nails are up high it's actually tugging and pulling on that and you got that leverage could break your nails also over the years i've heard people say oh these guys never peeled off the cellophane this does not need to get peeled off what that's for when the shingles come in a package from the manufacturer they would stick so how they manufacture these so they don't stick the seal strip here is lined up on the cellophane same on this top part it's so they can sit be in transit warehouse floors hot summer days not stick in the bundle and ruin your shingles you pull them apart there's believe it or not but a lot of guys say oh they didn't peel them now tamco years ago they would actually peel off of this side and stick to your cellophane it would made a mess so you want to make sure when you're installing a shingle there's no cellophane on that seal strip let's talk about nails real quick we use inch and a quarter coil nail i don't have any on me typically four nails for a standard application gonna be on each end too evenly spaced in the middle if you're in a high wind region you're gonna want six nails and according to this manufacturer they specified two on the ends and two groups of two in the middle evenly spaced so two here two here on the ends we never do that i don't know they all require that typically you want to make sure they're evenly spaced throughout not within a drip groove you don't ever want a drip groove or a keyway a butt joint coming together over another one or where a nail is never install your shingles stacked like this you'll always want to offset them typically you'll build a pattern up to the left we'll get into that here in a minute i'm not a fan of racking it over like this it looks like it goes straight up the roof you're going to see that pattern it's not good a lot of guys do it it's just not good i don't know that even manufacturers really will honor a warranty just don't get in the habit of it it's also really easy i see a lot of guys on youtube do that where they actually throw this one over and i'm out here but when they throw this next course in under it they forget to lift this up and shoot the shingle under it's just not good okay so let's get into building the pattern how we do the way these shingles measure most manufacturers if you were to split this into six inch cuts you would about break with five cuts so this is going to measure 39 inches so basically if you were to do six and a half inch cuts you're gonna have one two three four five five cut marks but six shingle pieces so you'd have a six straight course i always always pre-cut my leads on any sizeable section i'll pre-cut them and stack them and i'll show you some tips and tricks into what i do there if you're not good at just kind of eyeballing it typically the back side of this headlap is going to measure it's a little about five and five eight or six and five eight so about five and a half roughly you can use this as a guide i don't do this but it's good to point out for you guys take a full shingle butt it in square right here and you're going to use this right here as a straight cutting guide where that head lap is you're going to cut that with a sharp straight blade just come straight down it like this just score it a few times and then snap it set it aside we're going to use that if you're doing it on your roof don't cut through your ice and water your paper or any other shingles a lot of guys do that and they'll slice right through it even with a hook blade you need to be careful on a hot summer day it's going to slice like butter so be careful of that set that one up there get your second one just eyeball where that cut was and shift it over so here's your second cut straight as you can get it score it snap it and stack them i don't typically do this just because i've done it long enough i eyeball it so what i do is an assist with that is i'll square up this edge and then i eyeball roughly six inches right here and cut that and then obviously that's too big and it's not enough pieces so on my last second to last cut i'm just going to use my finger kind of eyeball so i know i'm going to get a consistent even amount okay so we have one two three four five cuts so five cuts gets us two rakes two two courses to be able to go up so even though there's only five cuts you're actually going to use one full shield with each of these so if you were to square up all those they don't have to be exactly six but they're going to be all about the same dimension so these are all about six and a half to seven inches but all pretty consistent so there's one set there's the other on a hot summer day what i typically do to get it all ready to rock and roll is i'll drive a 16 or an eight in just a little bit every three and a half feet or so and i will take these up on the roof resting on the nails so they're where they need to be ready to go i'll also point out on a hot summer day you're going to want to set these about like that where these seal strips are not going to stick to the next shingle if you were to stack them on a roof like this on a hot summer day they're going to start sticking together and when you pull them what's going to happen is it's going to pull the granules off the face of this shingle sticking to that it's not good to this shingle and it's not good for the seal strip because it's not going to seal down so just get in the habit of not stacking them like that on a hot summer day so once you've got all your shingles cut if you're going to pre-cut because i'm not a fan i see a lot of guys they'll put a shingle down then they'll cut it they've got to pull their knife out every time they're trying to cut it they're not cautious of where their nails are underneath they might slice the headlap in the next one i've seen all kinds of stuff it's not a good practice to get in my opinion anyway all right now that i've really granulified this section here let's get ready to start this so any homes that have a dormer typically you're going to roof your lower sides first your dormers that means you got a valley we're going to get into a couple of basic valleys a close cut valley i'll kind of explain i'm not a fan of them i do a california valley and then also there is a laced valley which typically you're going to do one side the other side one side like this all the way back and forth all the way up lacing it i was just on a roof the other day i'll actually show a picture on the screen of a lace valley i'm not a fan of them i don't think they look that great one might argue that it's the best but the problem is if you got multiple guys on your roof or if you're doing it yourself you literally have to roof both sides at the same time you can't just get guys on different areas rocking or rolling again you could argue that it's the best but i'm not a fan of it the reason i don't like close cut valleys you would roof one side typically your low side all the way up then your bigger section higher section across and then you're going to crack a line and cut your valley you need to be careful you don't cut the shingles under it more importantly when you cut the valley you now have a point where water is going to come down and catch if you don't nip those corners off you have the ability for lateral water movement following this cut point across the top and getting in into your nails so i'm not a fan of those that's how i learned how to roof i've gotten away from it so also again just point out yet there is no ice and water valley roll in because it is a 36 inch dormer and the ice and water on the bottom covers it so without further ado let's get in we're going to actually just lace the very first two shingles on the dormer we're going to roof the dormer up now we're going to show you the actual lead and building the lead on this bigger section here starter across your valley hopefully i'm not going to be blocking the camera here because it's only one shingle i'm just going to hang it down by feel about a half inch next let's get our gable starter shingle on overhanging about a half inch out the side here [Music] make sure you're not going to shoot out through your edge metal i like to do this you still have a solid starter strip coming down on your gable hang down a half inch crossing your valley so when you're getting ready to actually build your lead you're going to want to offset your shingle starter some people will actually take their full starter and hang it back this way i'm not a fan of it because then you're always taking your next starter under your full shingle so i like to actually offset it the other direction so in that case just take a shingle starter which by the way in this shoot i'm actually using material by the way most this was donated from reese wholesale kokomo so shout out to you guys but i'm actually out of starter i don't have any more starter so we're just going to show you pretend this is a starter pretend there's a seal strip on there we're just going to hang this out about a half inch because i don't have any more so we're going to take our first starter strip and offset it here hanging down about a half inch yep i need more starter we're going to take our first full shingle we're going to put it flush on our gable end down here and flush with our starter row at the bottom and shoot it off if you have any nails not drilled down go ahead and drive them down you want to make sure your nails are on your outer edge out here but not hanging through your overhang or through your starter that's overhung or your your edge metal if you ever not sure shoot an extra one cheap insurance you always want to make sure this section has no nails because that's where your next offset is going to come through so here's your first of your five cuts notice your there's no nails in that area flush out here on your gable on your build up shoot your nails obviously your shingles are getting smaller you don't need to squish six nails in six nails is recommended amount for a full shingle so half of that use three all right so i want to get to the valley here to show you but i want to lace this first section so we're gonna put one shingle across the valley on the big dormer side push your valley your shingle all the way down in your valley shoot it off now you're ready to take off on your actual dormer your small valley your lower side flush with your bottom flush on the gable end again make sure you've got this pressed down all the way no nails in your valley this is essentially what a laced valley is going to look like and then you would continue this side that side back and forth but we're actually going to run the dorm up the reason i lace the bottom shingle is because if you have water coming off this valley and you have just a starter under this or say nothing water coming off of this is now on your ice and water so it's a good habit to run at least your starter or one shingle laced across the valley so now we're going to rip this dormer up same concept you're going to offset about six inches making sure there's no nails in your drip groove your keyway butt joint line it up and shoot it off typically on a larger dormer what you're going to do is you're going to line up a full shingle out here with the gauge or with lines or whatever and then piece in the valley side full shingle piece it in if you're building your lead in one shingle like this chances are it's going to get a little crooked it's going to look bad when you get your section run out this is a small little piece so no big deal make sure you're pressed in shoot them off again no nails in your valley you're going to want to run it up high enough to get your build up within six inches or less of the top center of your ridge because your hip and ridge your cap your coping is going to cover that once you've come up and you're past this you can just trim this back and you're going to piece these in right here we'll go ahead and do that [Applause] now real quick with some scrap pieces i have over here [Applause] i'm just going to have a piece scrap from somewhere as long as it's not been compromised big enough to go in a couple little well i guess a tip on this so if you're a girl right here you're actually going to be cutting through a double laminate build up in the summertime it's not a problem in the cold winter time it's thick it's hard so just by simply shifting this over we're able to cut through a non-double build up or laminate mark your shingle and then cut it get it on your build up butt over the way the shingle costs are nowadays definitely a good idea to use any scraps you've got here's another good example some butt up here it's going to be cutting right through the thick of that double layer and it's cold in my garage so if we just simply butt it over the other direction off your gable end or cutting through a single layer it'll be a lot easier get it marked straight as you can cut it score it snap it boom again if you got any nails sticking up as installers make sure you just watch for that always carry a hammer a hatchet get those nailed down the other thing you can do is you can actually shoot it you can roof it have them hang over then all you got to do is either very carefully straight with a hook from the top or a sharp straight blade from the bottom just use your knife blade and run it down that cutting it again summertime is a lot easier winter not so easy you want a clean nice edge down the edge so from the ground looking up it's going to look good from the face looking at it's going to look good it's not going to be all crooked just going to make your your finished project look really good okay so we're back ready to finish this lead up i just wanted to actually get this bottom lace so we're ready to take back over where we left off just use your next piece in this case is the second cut so it's the third shingle because you have a full first cut second cut your third cut through fourth sometimes you might have a little rough edges there you can always take a sharp knife and trim those up a little bit and then here's your fifth final cut so you're going to go ahead and throw it up here don't forget to finish your starter up your gable ends all the way out in this case we're nailing it here i can always just tuck it under the headlap so we're good to go now in this case i'm actually just going to simulate what happens if say your hose got caught oh i got to watch my language so we got a shiner here okay the next shingle laying up here you've got a shiner exposed and showing don't leave it if you know you did it all you got to do is just simply pull that piece off it's really easy to do get your nails out get another shingle piece another new one and get it laid up there really simple to do really easy to fix and you're not going to have shiners on your roof you may have one happen that you don't catch not the end of the world you can always flat bar it apart later spot it whatever you want to do but if you know you did it just remove it it's really easy it's not the end of the world so we're going to just go through and show a couple things real quick so again the reason you want to lace your bottom if you had nothing over here you just simply started your gate your dormer side any water coming off this valley is going to trickle up under this next site a little bit it would be right on your ice and water edgement or whatever so at the very least take one starter across and one shingle across and then run your low section so you have now this high spot with any water channeling down your valley isn't going to come out on a shingle and off of your roof and not under everything let's do some follow-up on the shingle pattern so here's a drip groove a key way a butt joint your starter strips are going to be offset from that so you're going to have a solid starter under those areas no closer than five to six inches where the next shingle is going to butt in here you don't want any nails in that area if you had a nail somewhere in this area you're going to have a little bit of water trail coming through here over time it's going to eventually rust out your nail and then you have a hole there not good so every one of these if you get in the habit of keeping your pattern consistently built and consistently up when you're ready to rock and roll and run this out as long as your nail placement is consistent you're not going to have nails in these areas having the right nail pattern is very important to a good quality roof install so years down the road you're not going to have nails in the wrong area rust out and little bits of water come dripping in you

Channel: Grand Roofing Inc.

Views: 18,968

Keywords: roofing, shingles, roof, shingle, shingling a roof, shingling, roof shingles, roofing shingles installation, shingle roof installation, asphalt shingles, asphalt roof, how to roof a house, roofing basics, roofing 101, grand roofing, how to shingle a roof, roofing how to install shingles, roofing how to do valleys, roofing how to start, roofing diy, roofing a gable roof, roofing company, roofing contractor, roofing insights, how to roof a shed

Id: mN_WBOBqRoE

Length: 25min 57sec (1557 seconds)

Published: Thu Jan 07 2021