Rockwell Delta RC-33 DC-33 22650, 4 post planer upgrade to BYRD SHELIX + Lubrication + Adjustments

this is a rockwell rc 33 planer that i bought in 1984 so it's over 35 years old first and most important thing unplug the machine i like to leave the plug visible so that i know it's not been accidentally plugged back in and i also like to do a test to make sure i've unplugged the right machine i'll show you here how clean my floor is it's never been this clean ever and the reason i did that is so that if a screw or washer falls i've got a better chance of finding it first thing we've got to do is remove the drive belts and to get to that is take off this cover i got a little magnetic tray here so helps keep the screws from getting lost take this cover off by undoing the four screws remove this little thing i could roll these belts off the pulleys but there's three of them and so i think i'll be easier if i just undo the belt tension plus the tension needs to be reset anyway two bolts i'll just tighten them up again now the belts should come off a lot easier than if i stick a quarter inch thick piece of wood in here turn the pulley and the blade catches on that piece and there i'm free and before i pull the pulley off i'm going to turn it so the key is at the top that's just so it doesn't fall on the floor got a pry bar that'll just fit nicely in there and see what we can do doesn't take much force i'll work the key out now we're at the other end of the machine i want to take the this cover off and then it's pins and then that unhooks from the pin there so you don't have to take anything anything apart one screw remove this rubber ring by pulling it straight out remove this ring with a two and a half millimeter hex wrench to remove this piece wrap a cloth around and then pry it out the reason for the cloth is there's a ball bearing inside which you don't want to lose and a spring so without the cloth that might shoot out with that out of the way we got a clear view of the circlip i've got a very cheap circlip tool here undo this with a 10 millimeter wrench and you might need to jam your board in here just to get something to turn against now we can pry this gear loose loosen this off with a six millimeter hex just to give the chain some slack this gear should slide off but it's getting caught and it might be getting caught on the bur on here so i'm just going to very lightly clean that up with emery cloth clean off with kerosene see if she'll come yes i've cleaned up this gear with the sintered bronze bearing inside as much as possible soaked it for a couple of days in solvent and now i'm going to drop it into some light oil so that the oil will reimpregnate the sintered bronze and i'll just leave it there until the new cutter head comes in give it as much time as i can underneath that gear i found a three millimeter hex screw the next step is to loosen the bolts that hold the gearbox so that i can pull the gearbox out and the cutter head with it these two holes are lubrication holes for the infeed and outfeed rollers i put these dowels in a long time ago to stop the holes from filling up with sawdust and these four bolts are six millimeter hex bolts which when they're loosened the gearbox should drop down but i don't want the gearbox to just drop down out of control so i'm gonna put blocks of wood underneath to support the cutter head so there's the blocks of wood and i'll lower until it just touches and i've got the cutter head positioned so that it's not a blade touching the blocks i'll drain the oil out of this gearbox by undoing the drain plug and there actually is some in there there's a fill plug on the other side i'll take that out as well taking out the fill plug got it flowing a lot faster now with six millimeter wrench we can start loosening these bolts the cutter heads supported by the wood blocks if i raise the carriage that should let this piece drop and you can see it opening up there i'm going to put the plugs back in because there's just an occasional drip of oil and i don't want it the last you know drips getting on stuff i'll just put them in hand tight for now now knowing that the gearbox is free of the casting and resting on the wood blocks i can completely remove these bolts the next step will be pulling this out and it's heavy awkward sharp so get some good gloves and know where it's going to go and it likely isn't going to just pull out because the other end of the cutter head is in a bearing so i'm going to tap that bearing from the other side here's the shaft of the cutter head and the bearing i got a soft piece of wood and i can see the gearbox moving out slightly on the other side and there we're clear and this is sliding on the wood blocks the next step is to separate the two halves of this casting and you'll see in the video how i did it but if i had a chance to do it again i would mount the gearbox and the cutter head in a vise as shown i'd use two pry bars so that i could lift things up evenly and have some wooden shims ready so that when i got a gap open i could put them in to keep it open and not have it closed those are just some tips i'm passing on so that you can do a better job than i did the gearbox cover has five bolts and that's five millimeter hex i got a piece of plastic on the floor because i'm expecting some oil to drip out of this i'm working my way around this seal trying to open it up evenly all around i could only get so far with the knife but there's a little lip here so i'm going to take advantage of that to tap it open working up to larger screwdrivers trying to bring it out evenly all around what's making this difficult is there's a drift pin on each side but at least knowing that i know where i need to need to apply the pressure after about 20 minutes of working that i finally got it loose and i think i'll be putting in a new gasket on the end of the cutter head shaft there's a helical gear and there's a five millimeter bolt in there which i had to tap to loosen tapping the back of the box too bird wants to know the thickness of this spline before they'll make the cutter head so i'm measuring it with digital caliper and it comes out at 0.156 inches yours may be different to remove this bearing i'll first knock out the gear with a three quarter inch dowel then remove this screw with a five millimeter hex then knock out the bearing with a one inch dowel there was no need to disturb the rubber seal that can just be left in place i've ordered the bird cutter head i'm kind of out of business until that arrives but now is a good chance to do some maintenance lubrication adjustment and it's easier because better access to stuff and i don't have to worry about cutting my hand on a sharp blade i don't keep my thickness planer in this position by the way between bench and table saw i have it around there where i can get good runs but i've got it positioned here simply for good natural lighting for the filming the motor is easy to remove with just these two bolts 17 millimeter now i've got good access to the other two oil points for thorough cleaning we'll have to remove the bearing and i think i'll do that because if not now then when and if not me then who so first step is to unscrew this cap which allows the spring to be removed and also sets the spring pressure there's the spring i've removed the cap and spring on both sides of this roller six millimeter wrench to undo the plate that holds that bearing in place the roller feels kind of heavy so i'll use the same trick with the block of wood to support it now i can raise the carriage with the bearing cleaned up we can see how it works the spring sits in that recess the oil runs through that hole into the bearing area and keeps the sintered bronze lubricated and that'll work very well now that all the gunk is out of the way i've cleaned up the in-feed roller and the bearings but before i reinstall it there's a few other things to check like these anti-kickback fingers just to make sure they're all moving freely and they're reasonably clean so i'm going to leave them alone if they were gummed up there's a set screw under here you'd loosen push out the post and then take it apart and clean them up another thing to check before the in-feed roller goes in is this chip breaker making sure it's smooth which it is and flat it's flat this way but when i come around this way i don't know if you can see it there's a gap forming a gap forming at this end and that's because there's a dip down here and it's not bent in any way that i can see so what i'm going to do is file that down to get it straight i've got a fine file with tape on the end so that i only remove material where i want to and checking frequently with the straight stick it does not take a lot almost perfect there i cannot see any light that's a great improvement something i've been living with for 35 years and didn't know it for bearing lubrication i'm just going to use three in one it's a very light oil and i'll get started with some in the bearing and then that'll be supplemented with more in the pot when cleaning up the bearing the important surfaces are the two sides of course in here and then these two sides here because this has to slide up and down onto the spring so for that i'm just going to use some lithium grease something that'll last for a long time and it doesn't have to be like a great friction reducer because this thing doesn't move much but we just don't want it to ever bind up protecting against corrosion i've greased the other bearing the same way and now i'm lowering the carriage down to bring the bearings into place and making sure that both ends are going the right way now we can start supporting the bearing with the plate i'm going to leave the springs out for a while that allows me to fill the little oil pocket up and watch it over time drain down and saturate the bronze bearing and i can give the axle a spin to maybe help that along that spins much nicer than it did before so we've done ourselves a favor there this is a threaded rod that goes all the way through to lock these two posts there's another one on the other side and on this end which locks these two and i'm just gonna take them out because they're probably all gummed up and now is as good a time as i need to clean them there is the gooey rod so i'll clean that up i'll clean in here and that'll make a better action when the handles tighten to pull both sides in snug i'm on the other side now i've got the rod all cleaned up and you can see there's a flat spot on there and that will go against the post in here that's how it locks it up so it'll go in this way with the flat spot over there i'm going to put a little lithium grease on there back on the handle side we have a similar arrangement except this piece is not attached to the rod it floats freely with the bevel that goes against the shaft and the other piece that goes inside now if that isn't centered then just grab the chip breaker bar and get it centered so that this piece can go on nicely yeah to adjust the bed rollers use a three millimeter allen key to loosen this screw and then turn this with a flat screwdriver to raise and lower the roller i've set my rollers flat with the table because i always use the jointer first before i pass a board through here and i'm almost always working with hardwoods and they would slide over this very nicely without the rollers in fact some more expensive thickness planers don't even have rollers if you need to remove the rollers because they're rusty or something and you want to clean them up you'll have to find a metric machine screw that fits in there and then pry it out with a pry bar but i'll tell you it's going to be very hard i did try that on this machine and i was only able to get one of these open because they fit into the bearing in the end of the roller and they're just press fit underneath here you can see the chain that moves the carriage up and down this is the tensioning gear and in the corner underneath each post there's a gear that spins the threaded rod in the post these gears have 10 teeth and one full turn of the gear raises and lowers the table by four millimeter so one tooth would change it by 0.4 millimeter since there's 10 teeth which is 16 000 of an inch so if the carriage is uneven you can raise or lower any post by 16 000 of an inch by loosening the chain and turning the skier one sprocket and then tightening the chain back up there was a lot of gunk on this chain before i cleaned it and unfortunately grease attracts sawdust and it soon becomes not a very good lubricant it's just mostly sawdust so what i'm using as a chain lubricant is this dupont chain saver which gets excellent reviews from the motorcycle people on the internet because it does not attract dirt dirt doesn't want to stick to it and what it is is you spray it on the chain let it harden for 24 hours and it leaves a hard wax teflon filled surface on the chain so the chain isn't at all sticky i cleaned the buildup of grease and sawdust on these rods with toothbrush rags and whatnot right down to the bottom there that was just completely full of sawdust caked grease and then i sprayed it with the dupont chain saver and let it run down in the bottom because there's a bearing surface down at the bottom which carries the weight of the carriage the owner's manual gives the dimensions of a block to be made for use in leveling the carriage setting the height of the outfeed roller and setting the height of the chip breaker and the block looks like this when it's done to check that the carriage is level place the block so it just touches the carriage but instead of coming down the way i did there go below and then come up the reason for that is when you're raising the carriage you'll get all four corners rising evenly so there that's just snug you can see pretty pretty parallel and now i'll go around to the other side on the outfeed side i can see that the carriage is four thousandths of an inch higher than the infeed side now i'm going to have to live with that because if i turn the sprockets even one tooth that would change the height by 16 thousandths of an inch so if i've got anything uh less than eight thousandths of an inch i'm only going to make it worse by turning the sprocket one tooth i'm happy that it's parallel this way and the other one's parallel that way this this direction doesn't matter so much i cleaned this surface up as much as i could with solvents but there's still something on there so i've got a piece of 320 grit wet dry silicone carbide sandpaper i'll put some kerosene on it and just see if i can lap this surface to be a little cleaner the sandpaper is on a piece of plate glass which is dead flat and i've cleaned the glass so there's no bumps or anything between the sandpaper and the glass so that's after five minutes of lapping i'd probably a little faster if i use maybe 220 grit so there it is as cleaned up as i'm going to get it you can see some scratches here and that's the result of me not putting tape on the screwdriver and pry bars that i was using earlier in the video so learn from my mistakes the other half of the casting has all these gears in it i don't want to remove them because they're pressed quite tight into the casting so what i'm going to do is use the fine side of a norton sharpening stone with a little kerosene and just see if i can clean off that varnish or whatever it is staying flat on the casting and this is a flat oil stone i've i recently flattened it on a piece of glass so that seems to be working i don't want to overdo it okay i think i'll stop there it's not as shiny as the other half but it's better than it was the bird head arrived and i'm gonna wrap it with this piece of a brown paper bag for two reasons so that i don't cut my fingers and so that i don't chip any of the carbide teeth and i'll leave that paper on until after the head's installed one thing i want to check is whether this spline fits the gear and it does very nicely so my measurements were correct and bird's machining was correct the gasket didn't survive the disassembly process so i got some gasket material from amazon it's 1 64 of an inch and it actually measures two thousandths of an inch thicker than the old gasket so that's close enough and i found that an ordinary paper punch is the same diameter as the holes in here the gasket material comes in a tight roll to get it flat i used a steam iron i'll start by tracing the casting with a fresh blade i've got the gasket taped and i've marked with pencil where each of the holes is approximately and with the ball end of a allen key and it's an allen key that's just slightly larger than the hole so it won't poke through i'll make a depression and it'll find it naturally which i can then punch out so that's just to give me a location it's good to punch these holes before the center of the gasket is cut out i've marked a line 5 8 of an inch in from the edge which is the same size as the old gasket and enough to completely cover the the first gasket i made got kind of beat up so i just made another one i ordered the bird head with bearings included one of the bearings is installed that's on the pulley end and the bearing on the gearbox end is not installed because it has to go in from the inside so i've cleaned out this hole really well don't want anything getting between the bearing and the rubber ring in there or anything binding as it goes in i turned a piece of wood down to 1.83 inches you could probably just use a square piece of wood or hexagonal or whatever you can cut with a band saw or whatever tools you have it's important to be applying the pressure on the outer side of the ball bearing not the inner side because that could damage the bearing now we can put in that screw and washer that holds the bearing in place with a five millimeter hex key the next step is to tap the gearbox bearing onto the shaft so i've got the shaft supported by a block on the floor and the vise here is hardly clamping that there i've gone as far as i can by hand and i cleaned these surfaces beforehand use the smaller one-inch dowel because i only want to top the inner part of the bearing because that's where the force is going to go through to the head takes a few blows it's moving a little each time and i'm supporting the other end of the casting here so i don't put stress on the shaft when the spline is protruding above the bearing by about 40 or 50 thousandths of an inch then it's fully seated and i had to cut a slot in my one inch dowel so that i could continue hammering that down apply the helical gear that sits in there nicely and tighten up with a five millimeter wrench it's time to put the two halves of the casting together with the gasket and in preparation for that i tapped down on all these bearings to make sure they were fully seated into this side of the casting these two bearings were very smooth this one was rough so i replaced it i'll be applying the gasket to this half of the casting because it has to be maneuvered in to get over those gears and i wouldn't want to have to do that when it's already stuck to the other half of the casting and it can't bend the manufacturer of the gasket and sealant permatex and make sure you got it getting a sealant not a gasket former a gasket former would be if you aren't using any gasket so the manufacturer recommends cleaning the surfaces with brake cleaner fluid so i'll do that make sure you go around each hole i've got these drift pins partially inserted so that'll help with alignment of the gasket and the castings when they go together i'm spreading this as thin as i kind of can this is permatex aviation liquid sealant number three h and i'll also do the side of the gasket that will mate against that piece of the casting methyl hydrates a good cleaner for getting it off where you don't want it the instructions suggest to leave that for a few minutes until it gets a little tacky okay that's a good five minutes there's the pins to help with the alignment method hydrate to stay clean brake cleaner i've adjusted the support system under the bench so that this piece of the housing rests directly on the bench and that'll make it much easier when the other half of the housing is pressed down onto it make sure every hole is completely surrounded okay that's had five minutes to get tacky moment of truth so that's not going to drop straight down because the bearings have to be pressed into the bottom casting but i think i've got them all oriented i was sort of wiggling here and this is parallel with the bottom casting trying to keep things parallel as we go i think the first thing to do is drive these drift pins in because they'll make the final alignment and i had them protruding slightly before as i mentioned earlier so they were already kind of pre-aligned the five bolts with the five millimeter heads i'm not tightening any bolt completely i'm going around and progressively tightening methyl hydrate to clean up do this clean up before it dries because it's much harder to remove once it dries and the manufacturer recommends 24 hours drying time because the methyl hydrate completely removes any oils from the metal i'm just going to wipe this down with some light oil so that it doesn't start going rusty i'll leave the gearbox in this position for a few hours because just as the sealant squeezed out on the outside it probably squeezed out on the inside as well and if anything's going to drip down i'd rather it drip down into the bottom half of the casting where there's no gears rather than if i tip it on its side it might drip onto a gear before the gasket sealant sets hard check to make sure the cutter head rotates smoothly if it doesn't maybe the gears or something didn't mesh properly and it'd be easier to get this apart again before the stuff sets also as this rotates the main shaft here should rotate slowly got the cutter head still wrapped in paper resting on the wooden block make sure the other end clears the carriage i think i should be up here i'm tapping this gently so as to not damage the bearings i only want to go in far enough to catch these screws okay that feels about right these screws aren't binding it's a six millimeter hex i'll tighten them in sequence a little at a time raise the carriage to remove the block and the cutter head moves freely without catching on anything so i can safely remove the paper check that the cutter head is parallel with the table it's always better to raise the carriage than lower it when you're doing precision measurements or precision cuts because when the carriage is raised it registers on all four posts evenly and i've adjusted the carriage so that i'm just skimming the top of that block with the cutter head as i as i turn the shaft [Applause] and i'm getting the same skimming feeling at both ends that's good it's parallel if you do need to adjust the cutter head it should only be a few thousandths of an inch uh if it's more than that then you'd work out the chain on the bottom as i showed earlier in the video to move this end of the cutter head down loosen the bolts at the top and slip some shim stock in here to raise the cutter head up you'd have to polish off some of the surfaces there the other end of the cutter head is set in the bearing so there's no way that can be adjusted i'm refilling these pockets with oil while they're visible because later the gear will be on top then it's harder to see when the spring goes in make sure it fully seats in the pocket and that may require a little nudging you can also see from the top a spring that's seated and a spring that is not seated these set the spring tension for the infeed and outfeed roller pressure and to start with i'm just going to make them flush with the top of the casting that's about where they were before i took it apart if the spring tension is too high then there'll be marks on the wood as after it passes through if the spring tension is too low then the wood will not be drawn through the machine i've now got the carriage adjusted so the in feed roller is just skimming the block on this side but when i move over here i found with the feeler gauge that there's a gap of about three and a half thou so i want to lower infeed roller at this end by three to four thousandths of an inch the out feed roller has a height adjustment with this screw the in-feed roller has no height adjustment so what i'll do is loosen these bolts and put a shim in here which will effectively drop the in-feed roller down when i got that apart i found there's not a lot of area to put a shim on but what i did find was that on both these surfaces there was a lot of paint so i polished them on emery cloth on a flat surface and we'll see if removing that gray paint is enough to drop this down by the 3000 so now the infeed roller is parallel to the table and i can confirm that by moving this block along and i'm getting the same feeling of friction to adjust the out feed roller height first set the carriage so that it is 40 thou of an inch above the wooden block and i'm doing that with a feeler gauge that is 40 thou thick it's actually a one millimeter feeler gauge that's the same thickness then move the block to the out feed roller and we'll adjust the outfeed roller height so that it just touches the block and that'll put the out feed roller one millimeter or 40 thou below the cutter head the block is a little loose so i'll use an eight millimeter wrench to lighten off on that nut and then a two and a half millimeter hex to adjust the height so that it's just starting to touch there and tighten up the check again and then repeat on the other side set the chip breaker in the same way by loosening these nuts turning the set screws to get the chip breaker at the same height as the out feed roller which is forty thousandths of an inch or one millimeter below the cutter head the keys go in with the round end towards the machine and if there's a burr or something on it you may want to take that off with a file these two gears have to go on together lining up the keyways then we can tighten up this three millimeter the shorter bolt the 15 millimeter bolt goes in this gear and the longer bolt the 20 millimeter bolt goes down here tighten them up with a 10 millimeter hex circlip insert the spring and the ball that locks that in i've had the oil plugs out up till now to let some air flow through to clear out the fumes from the gasket sealant but now i'll put them in and you notice i've got teflon tape just on the outer half of the threads i don't want any teflon tape inside that might get washed up in the oil and i'll tighten that just gently with the 3 8 inch wrench over on this side is the hole for filling and i'll be using extreme pressure gear oil as recommended in the owner's manual i'll fill it right up till it leaks out and then put the other plug in the same way as the drain plug little plastic tube makes it easier to fill and i've got a cloth there ready to catch the drips once i hit the full level if you decide to fill the gearbox before installing it on the machine which might seem like an easier way and it is an easier way then be careful you don't over fill it and you can check that by removing the fill plug after it's installed and letting the excess drip out the recommended torque setting for these screws is 45 inch pounds which is 5.1 newton meters so i got this handy torque wrench from amazon and i'm checking every screw to make sure it's tight in case one came loose in shipping or something it's a t25 bit and i found out that not all of t25 bits are made the same so get a good quality bit that fits tightly now them were loose but i'm still glad i checked the foam gasketing looks pretty ratty so i'm going to replace that this piece is essential this part around here is something i added years ago just to reduce the clatter of the machine when it's running i put a thick gasket on here and just 1 8 inch weatherstripping around here if this board is damaged or missing you can easily make a new one out of 1 8 inch hardboard and it should come very close to the blade because it's going to deflect the chips away there's my new deflector the trickiest part was cutting this 45 degree bevel and i found that doing that on the router table and keeping it pressed down was the best way before putting the belts back on check that these two pulleys are parallel if they're not you'd have to adjust this pulley by loosening the motor and there's a set screw in there somewhere to set the belt tension loosen these two bolts using the piece of wood as a lever lift the motor until you get a belt tension where you can only deflect a quarter of an inch with a finger pressure and then tighten the nuts i've got a weather stripping gasket on this belt cover just to keep the machine running quieter i've got the planer back in its normal position and before i put the cover on i'll just do a check to make sure the chains are all running nicely we can see a space where sawdust is going to get onto the chain and you can also see there's a couple little bosses in the casting and i know that some other machines with similar architecture have a metal plate that goes on there and screws into those bosses to keep the dust out to make it easier to drill the pilot holes for the tapping i'll use a 17 millimeter hex wrench to remove the handle for drilling in the cast iron i've got a cobalt drill bit some sulfur-based cutting oil that'll prolong the life of the drill bit i'll set the depth of cut to be a quarter inch longer than the bolt and that'll make it easy to tap and i've got the casting against the post so that if the drill bit binds the casting won't spin around now i'll drill with a 9 64 inch cobalt drill bit to create the right size hole for an 8 32nd top i cleaned out the hole by sticking the wd-40 nozzle in and spraying it to get all the shavings out so there's my baffles i made them first out of cardboard easy to cut and modify then transfer that to some sheet aluminum that i had laying around you could use any material here you could even use cardboard the baffles have to be installed after the cast cover is put in place and then removed before removing the cast cover so that's a bit of a nuisance but it's uh i think worth it because it's going to keep the the sawdust from getting into that compartment and contaminating the chain if you click on the link in the description there'll be a pdf file that describes everything i've done in the video with pictures and words and at the end of that file i'll provide a outline drawing of these i've got the table reasonably clean and i'll try some of this dry lube with teflon stuff that's made for table saws and the like okay i've got three pieces of wood i'll send them through in the left middle and right and see if they come out all the same thickness and i've raised the carriage to the height i want so again so that it registers evenly on all four posts those are the dimensions i get as measured with a digital caliper they're all the same within 1 000 of an inch this is a piece of hard maple planed on the machine with the old straight blades it didn't matter which direction i fed it in i would get a lot of tear out because the grain direction keeps flipping around and this is probably the worst example i have of using the straight blades in most cases it comes out much better so let's see what happens with the new bird shellux head [Music] and i'll try going in the other direction but already a big improvement so i think it's about the same you know a little in here that's a really tough area the way the grain's going but before i had tear it all along here and now you can see that's exceptionally smooth and the whole panel feels very smooth a handy trick to eliminate the snipe that you might get at either end of the piece of wood and you can't see it there but i can certainly feel it with my fingers a few thousandths of an inch is to run the wood through on a flat board and that'll eliminate the catch that's particularly true when you're planing a very thin piece of wood like a quarter inch thick there's one little problem i want to show you the bed here is 13 and 1 8 inches wide even though it's a 13 inch planer and the original straight blades that came with the machine were 13 and 1 8 inch wide but the blades on the shellox head are 13 inches wide so if i run a piece of wood through right at the edge here we'll see what happens okay so you can see there it missed the last eighth of an inch i can certainly live with that i don't normally run any wood right through at the edge i've had a very wide piece that might drift over uh what you could do if you really wanted to is before you order your shell x head ask them if they will make it 1 8 inch wider on either side as you can see here there's loads of room between the knife and the casting so those knives could be extended an eighth of an inch on either side without any problem with still lots of clearance and one more thing each row of cutters is staggered from the next row as you can see which is good but it does mean that this cutter here for example its farthest corner is about seven eighths of an inch from the edge which means if you want all the cutters to be passing over a particular part of the wood that would needs to be in somewhere between three quarters and seven eighths of an inch from the edge of the planer now normally that's probably what i would do i don't normally send pieces of wood through up near the edge but it's just something to be aware of if you're looking for the best possible cut as you might be on a piece of wood with difficult grain so my periodic maintenance plan going forward which will probably be once a year for me is to blow the dust off these chains and spray them with the dupont chain guard blow the dust out of these riser rods and spray that with the dupont chain guard get a couple of drops of oil on that bronze bearing in there that we saw earlier remove my little sawdust plugs and get some oil down into that bearing with a long neck oiler and blow the dust off this chain underneath spray it and get some lubricant on this bearing then check the chip breaker and the out feed roller with the block as shown earlier in the video making sure they're one millimeter below the cutter head and parallel to the table and then there's the as required keeping the table clean keeping the rollers clean of resin spraying with the dry lube and the gearbox oil i'll probably change once every five years which is a lot more than it got done in the first 35 years

Channel: Steven Woodward

Views: 11,447

Rating: 4.9761906 out of 5

Keywords: RC-33, Byrd, Shelix, Helical, spiral, segmented, carbide, 22650, 22651, 22655, thickness, planer, Rockwell, Delta, upgrade, DC-33, bryd, shellix, shelex, shellex, bird, RC33, DC33, Wood Tek 15, DC-380

Id: zFdcSKi47ZU

Length: 47min 27sec (2847 seconds)

Published: Tue Jun 02 2020