Revolutionary Paint: How to Make Surfaces Stay Cool in the Sun

[Music] foreign [Music] cooling we built a device that chilled circulating water to below the ambient temperature simply by radiating the energy away into the environment it used just a couple of watts of electricity to circulate the water but the underlying process is passive it uses no energy and so it's effective eer is infinite now if you're interested in this technology you might want to take a look back at that video because we go through the engineering we build the device we test it and it really worked at the heart of that device is a specialized coating or super paint that enables it to work and today as I promised we're going to go through the how and why it works and because it's relatively simple and inexpensive I'm going to show you how to make it yourself now the underlying principle that makes this possible is the fact that all physical objects blow they emit electromagnetic radiation and at body temperature room temperature the temperature of the world around us that energy Peaks at around 10 microns or 10 000 nanometers in the infrared the efficiency with which any actual physical surface emits that radiation is called the emissivity and typical materials like skin cloth wood concrete plastic commercial paints all emit with an efficiency between about 75 and 90 percent but to make this work we want that number as high as possible at the same time if we're going to use this system both night and day we need this coating to reject or reflect as much of the Sun's light as possible because the sun can dump as much as a kilowatt onto every square meter of surface exposed to it now there are a number of materials that will perform either function pretty well but it tends to be mutually exclusive it's been known for years how to manufacture surfaces that will do both functions at the same time quite well using multi-layer dielectric films like you're building laser Optics but they require multi-million dollar laboratory style chemical vapor deposition equipment and the throughput the processing speed is quite slow it really isn't practical so there's been a lot of recent interest focused on this one material that performs both functions better than any other known substance it's widely available it's non-toxic and it's cheap barium sulfate it is mined all over the world at about 10 million tons per year as a mineral called barryite it looks a lot like quartz and it's often contaminated with other minerals so it can have various Hues from pinks to Blues to Greens it's pretty but in its pure form barium sulfate is absolutely colorless and as clear as the purest water in addition it's non-toxic for decades gastroenterologists and Radiologists have prepared milkshakes containing barium sulfate powder the patient drinks it and it coats the inner lining of the GI tract and because barium has such a high atomic weight it's radio opaque so even with conventional flat plate x-rays the barium sulfate will coat the inner lining of the GI tract outlining the morphology that can show tumors diverticula ulcers it's literally safe to drink bad even comes in strawberry for our purposes however what is important is that the barium sulfate Crystal has an electronic structure that allows it to resonate at the same frequency as the thermal vibrations that occur around room temperature and so each of the crystals operates as a little Nano antenna that emits that radiation into the environment at an over 96 percent efficiency at the same time what makes it so reflective in the visible is the fact that it is so clear as I said it's as clear as the purest water and it's the same principle that makes pure water the second most reflective material known when it is converted into snow when light strikes a snowflake or Crystal of barium sulfate some of the light reflects off the surface of the Crystal and is scattered away some of the light enters the crystals and is refracted and again scattered away the light that is scattered back toward the source we call that the reflection but the light that is scattered deeper into the material simply encounters other crystals where the process repeats over and over and over again and because both substances are so clear they don't absorb the light and this process is virtually lossless it just continues to bleed away light toward the source until eventually all of it is gone pure barium sulfate powder has a reflectivity in the visible of over 99 percent so obviously we got to get our hands on some of that stuff and it's actually easy to make and kind of fun what happens industrially is they will convert the baryite into barium chloride using heat and carbon and barium chloride is a water soluble salt so you can prepare an aqueous solution of barium sulfate by adding it to water and in this case 0.2 molar for those of you unfamiliar with the term it's sort of a measure of the concentration of particles in a volume of water so if you have a molecule that has a molecular weight of say 208 barium chloride and you add 208 grams of it to a liter of water you'll have a one molar solution this is a one-fifth molar or 0.2 molar solution if I take this barium chloride and I pour it into these dishes in order to form the barium sulfate we need a sulfate donor and in this case we're going to use 20 percent sulfuric acid if I take this dropper and pull up some of the acid and drop it in you see this neat reaction it's kind of cool I love chemistry What's Happening Here is that the sulfate from the sulfuric acid is grabbing onto the barium ions forming water insoluble barium sulfate that's the powder that's drifting down to the bottom of the dish What's Left Behind is the hydrogen from the acid and the chloride from the barium chloride forming water-soluble barium chloride solution so we've done a double displacement barium chloride becomes barium sulfate and sulfuric acid becomes hydrochloric acid I love this chemistry is fun something to show your kids that is barium sulfate however that won't work the problem is this uncontrolled reaction generates rather large multi-micron diameter irregular Aggregates rocks and that's not conducive to very dense packing which is necessary to produce the highest performance highest reflectivity material optimally what we want is much smaller particles in the nanometer range we want them smooth and round and regular and we also want them over a variety of sizes in that nanometer range as I'll explain in just a second now it appears to be that the simplest and most reliable way to do that is to modify this reaction with a surfactant that stands for surface active agent it's a family of chemicals that are similar to detergents many commercial detergents have surfactants in them what the surfactant does is it surrounds or isolates the barium ion in solution so when you get that very tiny initial nucleation site where the barium sulfate begins to crystallize the surfactant controls the availability of the barium and so it tends to grow in a much smoother rounder more spherical shape and it inhibits the formation of these large aggregate rocks it really works and that's exactly what Nighthawk and light did several months ago when he was covering this technology if you're interested in the subject take a look at his video it's very well done and it's interesting I think you'll like it basically what he did is he took the barium chloride solution 0.2 molar and he adds to it the surfactant EDTA and you want to use an equal molar amount so if this is 0.2 molar barium chloride you want to add 0.2 molar EDTA it has a molecular weight that's about 50 percent greater than the barium chloride so you want to use about one and a half times the weight of the barium chloride when you're making up the solution then you're going to repeat the double displacement reaction what I have here is sodium sulfate I could use the sulfuric acid however when we're done what happens at the end is we're left with hydrochloric acid in solution when we use sodium sulfate What's Left Behind is very dilute table salt sodium chloride and it's easier to deal with later on when I add this solution you'll see what happens you immediately form this Milky suspension of barium Nano powders barium sulfate nanoparters and we're basically done even though the surfactant slows the reaction we're talking milliseconds to seconds this is already complete and so to concentrate this what we do is we get a magnet to hold on to the stirring bar and we fill up some centrifuge tubes okay and we want to try to get this reasonably even so that we don't explode our centrifuge that's pretty close I hope we'll cap these up we'll throw these in the centrifuge and we'll run this up to 4000 RPM for a few minutes kind of a neat piece of equipment we got this a few years ago on Amazon I think it cost us about three hundred dollars and it's actually marketed in the foodie section on Amazon you know that area where you try to mix technology and chemistry and food preparation kind of a geeky activity and we might cover some of that stuff in a future video but basically it isn't a very high performance unit it only goes to 4000 RPM but it has a very high capacity it'll handle up to 300 milliliters in a run and every few minutes so the throughput is is really good and in keeping with the food theme what's another interesting fact about this suspension is that it ages like fine wine if before I did this step we simply turned out the lights and came back the next day overnight the suspension will allow the barium sulfate to slightly rearrange and the particles become even smoother even rounder and almost polished so it doesn't add any more work but if you're a little more patient you're going to get a little bit better result and that's exactly what he found when he produced the much smaller much rounder nanoparticles due to the controlled reaction with the EDTA and added this to a paint he got a higher performance out of the material now if we want to get to the actual state of the art the highest possible performance that anybody's been able to achieve we have to kick this thing up one more Notch and to do so we have to take advantage of a principle called densification I've covered this in a previous video on our thermal grease and basically it's the same principle that lends such strength to ultra high performance concrete if you take a volume and you fill it with uniform sized particles no matter how neatly you try to pack them down the highest density loading you're going to get is 64 percent and if you just pour them in you're going to be closer to 60 percent it's because of the unavoidable voids between the particles and it doesn't matter what size particles you use as long as they're uniform smaller particles will have smaller voids but there'll be more of them the ratio doesn't change however if you take medium-sized particles like these you can fill in the gaps between the larger particles and increase the density loading by filling in those voids increasing the density inside of the same volume and if we go even further and add even tinier particles we can fill in the voids between the medium-sized particles etc etc etc asymptotically approaching a one hundred percent solids loading that's what we need for the ultimate coating and it turns out we can do that with a little modification of this reaction because it's so temperature sensitive if we run the same thing that I just showed you with all the reagents down at about 0 degrees Celsius will produce nice regular spherical barium sulfate nanoparticles in about the 10 nanometer diameter range if we run the reaction up at around 95 degrees Celsius we'll produce nice smooth nanoparticles in the several hundred nanometer range and so the trick is you just do it in batches you do a zero degree batch 30 degree batch 60 degree batch and a 95 degree batch and when you're done you mix everything together to produce this Diversified size of very nice nanoparticles that give you the ultra high dense coating that we're looking for all right we open this guys up and you can see in the bottom of the container the white pellet of the barium sulfate Nano powder and on top the supernatant hold it I just want to make sure I get it got it now what you do simply take off the caps and pour out the supernatant and what's left behind is those pellets of Nano powder now you don't even have to clean this out initially what you can simply do is take more of the solution and pour it right on top and do it again you can do this several times building up the pellet at the base eventually you get to a law of diminishing returns but the point is it saves a step when you're all done or you've got as much use as you think you can get in there then simply take a stirring rod put it inside pull out your barium sulfate paste put it down onto a plate put it in an oven and run it at 100 to 150 degrees Celsius for a couple of hours to dry it out and you have your batch of barium sulfate Nano powder then you simply repeat the operation for each of the different size ranges you want and when you're done you mix everything together and you have your white powder and no comment no jokes in the comments section this this really is barium sulfate we're not making a pastry we're making a paint and so we need a binder or something to hold this together and typically for high-end paints you'll use an epoxy resin or a polyurethane resin system they're a poor choice for this application because they have virtually no volatiles so what happens is when you mix in this ultra dense powder it will very quickly thicken up and form a paste and then a putty long before you get to a very high solids loading and you might think oh well go ahead and just add some more some more resin thin it out you can't do that because none of the resin systems works as well as the barium sulfate you want as little resin as possible so the better choice is to use an acrylic polyethyl methacrylate what you do is you take this polymethomethacrylate and you dissolve it in an appropriate solvent and you then blend in your powder and because you can use an arbitrary amount of solvent you can bring it to just the right viscosity for spreading or for the very densest best coats spraying and then when you're done the solvent evaporates away leaving behind just enough of the resin to stick your balls together so to speak now there's been a lot of research on this topic and I've studied a number of papers looking for a good solvent because it turns out what is the best solvent dimethyl formamide I don't like it so much the problem is it stinks Alternatives like acetone methyl ethyl Ketone toluene all have strong odors but I know you're familiar with them they're kind of fruity they're kind of perfumey they're not bad dimethylformamide smells like bad fish anybody who has dissected a frog has smelled something similar it's not really Pleasant the second issue is it evaporates rather slowly so that when you lay down a coat you have to wait a fair period of time before you can lay down a subsequent coat and the reason that's a problem is because you've got to use a lot of coats like 20 to 30 coats now I know your painters out there are like he's crazy there's no way you ever need to do that yeah actually you do here because with typical stains or paints they include a pacifiers or absorbers to manage the light this system is completely dependent on scattering and so you need a thick enough build so that all the light gets scattered back toward the source rather than get through and be absorbed by the substrate so you need a build thickness about a half a millimeter thick which is 5 to 10 times as thick as a typical spray of paint or stain the problem is if you go to the other solvents they evaporate too quickly so when you put this super dense powder into them and you start to spread them they quickly gum up or if you use the preferred technique of spraying them it's even worse what ends up coming out of the end of the gun looks like cotton candy or the output from a chop gun if you're doing a fiberglass boat bill it's a mess it doesn't work so it's dimethylformamide we've got our powder we've got our resin system and we have our solvent let's go ahead and cook up a batch okay before we start the synthesis one little reminder something I neglected to mention is that when you're adding the sodium sulfate to the barium chloride you want to use the same number of moles so in the case that we used half the volume we actually used a 0.4 molar sodium sulfate solution to the 0.2 molar barium chloride but we had twice as half the amount of volume For the synthesis that I'm going to demonstrate we're going to do a small volume because I want to show you the techniques as well as the ratios of the different materials but if you're going to be doing a large volume you want to cover a large piece of equipment multi-leaders you're going to cover a building maybe an astronomical Observatory you want to use this high-tech piece of scientific equipment this thing is great and it's what we used and what's a shame is KitchenAid used to make a heated bowl for this mixer so you could heat and mix at the same time problem is ours broke and it looks like KitchenAid discontinued them maybe because they all broke but there's a relatively simple hack that you can perform and that's what we did for our synthesis if you go on Amazon you can pick up these self-adhesive flexible poly imide heater strips they come in a variety of sizes and shapes this particular one is 12 Watts 12 volts you simply peel off the backing stick it onto the side of your bowl and then you can wire this up in series or in parallel however you want to do it for the current and voltage that you want to use you can use AC DC in this case the 100 Watts eight strips that we've got mounted on the bottom is sufficient to bring the temperature of the reaction up to about 70 degrees Celsius for a few minutes near the end which is what we want to do in this case we're going to use a hot plate now in this container I have 130 grams of the dimethyl form amide oh smells smells and to this I'm going to add 80 grams of the barium sulfate powder and whenever you're dealing with a nano powder especially when you're inside and you're in close proximity it's always a good idea to wear a mask now when I add this barium sulfate what I'm doing is I'm not dissolving it in the dimethoformamide because it's completely inert in the solvent it won't dissolve what we're doing is we're using the mixing bar to sort of beat up and break up any kind of lumps or clumps that might have formed during storage or Transportation or drying and we want as even and smooth a distribution throughout the liquid is possible and that's what the the stirring bar will do now another interesting thing is you don't actually have to make this stuff like we just showed you you can actually buy it found a company in India called Airtech pvt Limited and they will sell this Nano powder and it's not expensive it's less than four thousand dollars per ton but a couple of emails and some schmoozing and they were kind enough to send us a sample we tested it and it works almost as well as the stuff that we made ourselves and it will certainly save you some steps if you want to buy it directly there is a company down in Texas called us Nano and we've used them for years to provide Nano powders for a lot of our projects super high quality great delivery and very high prices you'll end up paying about three hundred dollars per kilogram so it is what it is now as we put this in and this moves around like this we could mix this as long as we want it's not going to hurt anything but typically I usually just play it safe and I give it about 20 to 30 minutes at around 300 RPM with the 50 millimeter stirring bar and that has always worked if you're doing the large quantity I do the same number of minutes at low speed and again that gives you a very nice even distribution but you can see as it goes in there are little lumps this will not break up the Aggregates that can form during synthesis they're just too robust but these tiny little bits of powder they'll break up nicely all right so let's just let that spin for half an hour or so and we'll get back to you okay now I'm going to add the polymethyl methacrylate and we're going to use 14 grams of that and because it's not a nano powder I don't need to use the mask these are small 200 Micron beads now poly my my poly methyl methacrylate is a polymer and so it comes in a variety of different molecular weights depending on how long the monomer chains are it can go anywhere from about 10 000 to several million and the very high molecular weight versions have better thermal and structural properties like for lucite and Plexiglas but they're also harder to dissolve this is a relatively low 80 000 molecular weight methyl methacrylate resin called lvakite 2028 it's manufactured by lucite International and it's distributed in the U.S by Mitsubishi chemical and it's also not expensive but you have to buy 55 pound bags so we contacted them via email a couple of phone calls and again they were kind enough to send us a sample like the man said politics is the ultimate science if you want to buy this directly you can buy a very similar material from a company called polysciences it's called pmma 100 probably for 100 000 molecular weight and I'm adding this very very slowly even though if I were just to dump this right in the container it would eventually dissolve we'd end up with a gumball sort of flopping around inside of here and the reduced surface area would actually slow down the dissolution so by going slower we're actually going to be done faster all right so let's start heating this up and doesn't really matter what you turn the plate to because the ultimate goal is to get this to about 70 degrees Celsius now the first thing you'll notice when you look at this is that it doesn't look quite as super duper bright white as you might hope it looks actually a little translucent or a little grayish that's simply because the polymethyl methacrylate is still in beads these little translucent beads moving around in here as this heats up and they dissolve forming a thin syrup resin to bond the barium sulfate this will get whiter and it will also get more viscous it'll get thicker eventually it will get viscous enough that it will overcome the stirring bar and we're going to have to take over with the stirring rod that's not a problem with this guy this guy will just keep on cranking so it's it's really great to use but nevertheless you'll see those changes occur over time as this gets thicker something else to keep in mind whenever you're doing any kind of a synthesis that involves a solvent before you get started weigh all of your individual components the beaker the stirring bar the stirring Rod a spoon anything that you might use weigh them write them down and put them in your back pocket because when you do the synthesis depending on the temperature of the room the chemicals that you're using how long you stir it you're going to lose a little bit of that solvent and you don't know exactly what it's going to be but at the end when you add up all those weights and you find that you're down say five grams it's easy enough to just put a little bit more solvent in there bring yourself up to the same viscosity each time so it makes it very repeatable now as this stuff heats up it will begin to get thicker and the viscosity will go up it's going to take us a little bit of time but when I start to take over with the mixing bar we'll see what kind of temperatures we have all right so the stirring Rod gave up the ghost a couple of minutes ago and I went over and took over with the temperature probe and you can see we're probably pretty close to about 70. 71 72 it's not super important because we're just dissolving and ultimately as you can see we've gotten this thicker we're looking for a viscosity around 100 to 150 centipoise which fancy word represents about 100 to 150 times the viscosity of pure water and from appearances it looks a lot like something between light and heavy cream and the first couple of times you do this you're actually going to want to measure this just to get a feeling for where you're at and there's a couple ways to do that one is you can use what's called a Wagner cup or my favorite you can use a zon cup you can get these on line you can get these from painting supply houses and what they consist of is a calibrated volume 44 milliliters in this cup and then at the bottom there's a hole and the diameter of the hole changes depending on whether or not it's on one zone two's on three this is a zon three cup what you do is you take this cup and you submerge it into the liquid like this fill it up and then get ready with your timer just make sure it's full and as soon as you pull it out start your timer and then you watch the Stream and as soon as it breaks up not the last drops but breaks up into individual drops you stop your timer that's your zon time and what you're looking for is a seven to eight second zon time and a zon three cup and that gets you to that Mama Bear viscosity that's best for spraying with a high volume low pressure spray gun like we have and you're basically done you can take this material put it in a jar cap it up and keep it indefinitely if you're going to keep it for a long time you might want to throw this into a stirrer and swirl it around a little bit just to break up any kind of stratification or any settling that can occur before you put it in your gun so now we're ready let's lay down some coats so after we finish the synthesis we decided that the best place to do the actual painting would be down at the large Warehouse so we gathered up all the supplies and the equipment we brought them down there the next day and we set everything up [Music] now painting aluminum presents certain challenges and you need to do a proper Surface Prep to get the very best adhesion for paints as well as adhesives like boxy the first thing that you want to do is when you get the raw material from the supplier you want to clean it off and you want to use a solvent like acetone or brake cleaner that will dissolve grease and if you take a piece of paper towel which is the best choice because you're going to throw this away and put a little bit of the solvent on here wipe the aluminum down thoroughly and you'll see that you get some black throw this away do another round until the paper towel comes off clean then you know you've gotten rid of all the grease and that's going to set you up for the next stage now the next stage is you want to sand the surface palm sander with about 150 grit is a good middle of the road roughness and by cleaning it off first you don't create a mud as you're trying to sand this thing off the reason for sanding it is you want to turn a smooth surface into a rough surface because it has a lot more surface area to bind to the adhesive and it also gives some tooth that allows the adhesive or the paint to lock into it gives you a much better better bonding aluminum is particularly difficult as a metal because it's so reactive what happens is the oxygen in the atmosphere reacts with the aluminum and forms a thin layer of aluminum oxide on the surface and that doesn't Bond well to adhesives or paints it's almost like the flower on a pizza board little ball bearings and it prevents bonding you do remove that when you sand it but because it reacts so quickly with the atmosphere in milliseconds it replaces itself so you're not going to keep it off so the final step is to use an etching primer these things usually contain an acid like phosphoric acid and will actually eat into the aluminum lifting the aluminum oxide away and then depositing or leaving a less reactive metal as a coating like zinc or iron once that's dry you've got a very good very tight Bond you're probably not going to get any kind of failure with your coatings there's another little trick that I've shown in previous videos that you can use especially if you want to save the time and not use the primer and actually get the ultimate bond strength is if you take a little bit of epoxy and you put a dollop down on the clean aluminum then take an abrasive pad like a Scotch Brite pad or a piece of sandpaper actually sand the epoxy into the surface that gets rid of the oxide layer and because the epoxy provides a barrier for the oxygen it doesn't oxidize this will produce the strongest surface the strongest bond saves you the time with the primer but it's messy so it's better for small parts or one-offs if you're going to do that so that's basically what we did in order to prepare this panel for the coating for the spraying now I'm going to turn on the gun and what we're using is a high volume low pressure sprayer there's lots of videos out there about how to set these things up and get them working properly I'm not going to go through that with you but the trick with using this thing is putting on very thin coats you're not going to be able to hear me for a little bit so let's just get this going that's one coat and we're going to need to do a lot of coats now you want to put this on super thin because you'll actually save time over the Long Haul of the whole project because a very thin layer has more more surface area to be able to evaporate also if you just put on a super super thick layer you could get runs and in addition you're going to wait so long between layers you're not going to ultimately save time so we'll let this thing dry and then we'll come back and I'm going to show you how we're going to do the second coat and the way that we're going to know when the the paint is ready for the next coat is we're going to use our senses and we're going to do a little bit of a test one is that the solvent in the paint is makes it look glossy makes it look shiny wet when that goes away and you're left with a very flat matte surface that's that's a good sign the next thing is if you find an area that you don't care very much about you can wipe your finger on this when you think you're pretty close your fingers should come away completely clean and then finally give a little sniff you still oh man that stuff stinks you should still should smell a little bit of the solvent and now you're ready for the second coat one of the problems with doing this too quickly is that if you're leaving solvent behind subsequent layers the vapor pressure of the solvent can create little bubbles or blisters and if you do this and you wait too long this gets bone dry then the solvent in the paint may not have enough availability to be able to stick into the underlying acrylic to actually melt it slightly and create good interlaminar strength if you don't do that if you do it with the surface bone dry you may get peeling and cracking so we're just going to have to wait a little bit of time all right it's been about 20 minutes and it looks pretty good very matte surface interesting thing about that is that gloss paint and matte paint can have exactly the same reflectivity the gloss paint produces a specular reflection you can almost see your face in it but the matte paint will scatter the light nevertheless they both reflect the same percentage it's kind of a surprising fact and this is a very matte surface so now let's put on the glove do a little white test and completely clean so that's good and then the sniff test yeah still a little bit of that foul odor so we're perfect ready to paint it's going to be loud again okay so that's coat number two this is going to take a very long time and so I've decided to cheat a little bit I'm not advising you to do this because it's going to be a little bit risky [Applause] I'm going to add a fan the fan will speed up the drying time and keep us here a little bit less time the reason it's a little bit risky is because this isn't a proper spray booth and although we've swept the floor and it's pretty clean in here the Fan's turbulent can churn up dust that can eventually be blown by the fan onto the tacky surface and get the dust to adhere to the surface so it is a little bit of a risk the other thing is if the fan is pretty close you can get differential flow across the surface and differential drying so that you don't have a uniform level of dryness for the next coat so to mitigate those risks I'm going to put the fan up off the floor I'm going to turn it to low speed and I'm going to move it far back so that we don't get that kind of focused flow now another thing to keep in mind is that the paint here it only takes a minute or two to apply and 20 minutes intervals between and so even though we're going to start very early in the morning and we're going to finish late in the evening 95 percent of the time we're not actually doing anything so you might want to arrange to have projects that you can do at the same time that you can periodically interrupt to allow you to put the coats of paint on that way you're not wasting a whole day another thing you can do is have a buddy or somebody that you can work with like a cameraman that can allow you to spell each other or to do it in shifts you know I'll do the first two hours and then my cameraman will do the last eight hours you know just to be fair you also want to make sure you have plenty of supplies I want to have some food make sure that you're not going to run out of anything in the meantime and you have to allow for the fact that you might need to make sure that you're prepared do you do this on our budget what else did you get thanks oh also you might need this oh tool man yeah refreshments so it's going to be a long day but it's going to be a good day uh okay let's see how we're doing here yeah it's dry okay we're ready all right last coat [Applause] okay um that's like 20 or it's 20 or wait a minute I wrote it down I wrote it down I wrote it down uh yeah like I use like 22 or uh 20 27. yeah it's like uh 27 that's enough yeah that'll do it after we recovered we managed to make it home got a good night's sleep had a few cups of coffee then returned to the warehouse where we did this all right it's time to test the panels I've prepared three panels with different Coatings one has the Super paint that we applied yesterday one is just a bare aluminum panel and one has the commercial Rust-Oleum paint the super bright Rust-Oleum paint placed on it on the back of each of these panels I've attached a thermal probe and we're going to be measuring the relative temperatures of these panels in the sunlight so I'm going to hook these things up to a thermometer and now we'll plug this thing in number one which is the farthest panel that's the ultra paint number two which is the aluminum panel and number three which is the Rust-Oleum panel come on honey all right and number four which is just a bear probe hanging in the shade behind the board so we'll measure air temperature with that probe let's turn this guy on and we're going to give this a couple of minutes for everything to equilibrate and then we'll see just basically what kind of relative performance we get [Music] wow pretty impressive all right so as you can see the panel that we coated with the ultra paint is about three degrees cooler than the Ambient Air Temperature the aluminum plate is substantially hotter about 20 degrees Celsius hotter and the panel that is painted with a Rust-Oleum super white commercial paint is still about 10 degrees warmer eight degrees warmer than the surrounding air temperature and this is a very conservative test because here in New England in November in the afternoon the solar intensity is relatively low as a result the differential between the panels is much more compressed they would be even more significantly different if we were in the summer here or if we weren't in New England we're in southern or lower latitudes in addition we also have not protected these panels from any of the surrounding radiation the infrared given off by the trees the buildings the cameraman me and we also have to allow for the fact that the air temperature here being cooler than these two panels over here is attempting to to cool off those panels as the wind blows across here it's trying to bring those panels down to air temperature at the same time it's trying to warm the panel that's below air temperature which is pretty impressive meaning if you were to put this on an actual structure or a building or the roof of your house in Tunisia you would have those surfaces cooler than the surrounding air given real-world conditions pretty impressive and as I've shown you this paint is relatively easy to make and can be pretty expensive this is going to be a big deal if you like the kind of stuff that we're doing on this channel please consider taking just a few seconds and subscribing it really helps out the channel I know a lot of content creators beg you to subscribe but the reason they do that is because it's so important to us it takes a lot of time effort and money for us to do these projects we've got a lot of projects on the board and the bigger we grow the more we can afford to bring you in any case I want to thank you very much for watching you have a wonderful afternoon and we'll see you soon wow [Music]

Channel: Tech Ingredients

Views: 592,102

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Id: dNs_kNilSjk

Length: 49min 39sec (2979 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 03 2023