Restoring an MCM 'Stingray' Coffee Table | Step by Step | Furniture Restoration

welcome back to tone and teak here's a look at what's to come in this episode as I refinish this mid-century modern Stingray coffee table [Music] [Music] [Music] I picked this table up off Marketplace for $50 it was in pretty bad shape I probably overpaid but I liked the look of it and was Keen for a new project the first job is to remove the Crusty old finish after my last video I learned that I really hate paint stripper it's messy and expensive so I went and bought a set of carbide scrapers as you can see the Finish is no match for the scraper it's also really satisfying to use I'd totally recommend it after just a few minutes of scraping it was time to give the tabletop a sand I was definitely not expecting such an exotic wood grain underneath now for the part that I was dreading the most the legs I started out by removing the legs from the tabletop by unscrewing these brackets and to procrastinate a little bit I decided to scrap the underside of the tabletop too the legs in the tabletop were held together with these brackets they're a little bit Rusty so I put them in some vinegar to loosen up the rust while I do the rest of the repairs now it's time to tackle the legs all scraping I noticed a bit of a wobble so I decided to knock the joints apart this made removing the a lot easier but it was still tricky in some of the areas around the [Laughter] slats I found the best way to get right up to the edge of the corners was to use my small scraper blade by hand when I bought the scrapers I also bought some of this sanding mesh to try this one's 180 grit this sanding mesh is a game changer I used this one sheet for the entirety of the legs and it was almost brand new at the end I don't I think I'll be going back to sandpaper when I can here we are everything's been stripped and sanded I'm now going to tackle some small areas needing repairs I'm filling these damaged areas with some teak wood filler to start with because I'm impatient I'm using a heat gun to speed up the drawing [Music] time and then I'm gently sending the are FL [Music] next I'm going to reglue the frame the old Dows was still good so I just added some new glue and clamped it all back together overnight good is me now it's time to refinish and blend the repairs first I will use Scandinavian oil to bring out the color I'll then do my grain painting in seiling with shellac and I'll finish it off with a top coat of polyurethane the scard Aven oil is great you can use it as a standalone finish as it has poly in it but I prefer to use it as a base I'm applying it with four R steel wool and then immediately buffing off the excess I find it's best to buff off the oil as soon as you can the tin states to wait for half an hour before you do it but in my experience if you wait that long it's really hard to get off after a day the oil is cured and it's time to set down a seal coat of shellac I'm mixing up some new shellac in a ratio of roughly 50 g of shellac flakes to 200 mm of methylated spirits the shellac will seal in the Scandinavian oil as well as provide a means to blend in my reps later on with the seal coat applied I'm now mixing up some tone shellac using natural Earth pigments I won't show all of the areas that I grain paint in detail but I will show you this main area on the top so that you get an idea of what I'm doing I tend to start with lighter tones before adding in darker tones for detail but you could probably do it the other way around as well because shellac dissolves into itself this technique Blends really well to further in the Blends even more you can use straight methylated spirits on a brush or even some steel wool to softly blend in the colors for with all of the areas Blended I then seal them all in with another coat of shellac with this shellac stage finished it's now time to give the whole piece a light sand down with 4 under grit before applying the poly I'm thinning the poly with 20% mineral turpentine which just makes it a little bit easier to wipe on and also speeds up the drying time a bit [Applause] the poy is really easy to apply I just use a soft cloth and wipe it all over I don't wipe too much of the excess off like I do with the oil as I don't want to take too much of the Finish away after the final coat is cured it's time to knock back the finish with four o steel wo I'm going for a semi gloss finish today so only a very light rubbing to finish it off I'm applying some soft Pace wax if you want to see how I made this pace wax check out my first video I showed the process after letting the wax dry for about half an hour it was now time to buff for the second video in a row I'm going to put it on record that I really need to get a polisher half an hour and a sore elbow later and it's all done the last step is to fix the tabletop back to the [Music] legs so I took out the hardware from the vinegar and cleaned it off and fastened it all back together [Music] now it's time for a little bit of before and [Music] after if you enjoyed the video feel free to like the video and subscribe or even leave a comment thanks for watching and I'll see you next time

Channel: Tone and Teak

Views: 9,230

Keywords: mid century modern, furniture restoration, mcm, restoration, mid century, australian furniture, furniture flip, furniture flipper, coffee table, teak

Id: FtB-O6JEU8Y

Length: 18min 1sec (1081 seconds)

Published: Tue Apr 30 2024