Replacing My Whole Electrical Panel

ah yes winner [Music] all right guys today we're back in my house we're gonna swap out this electrical panel it's got a whole bunch of code violations going on i'm gonna take you all the way through it we're gonna have fun a couple things before getting started i'm excited i got a new pair of pliers these are a thousand volt rated good for solar energy work and my friend blew out my old pairs so check those aside i'm ready to rock um here's the deal step by step first thing i'm going to do is i'm actually going to document exactly what i've got here i've got some pencil markings and labeling on the inside cover and i just want to take a picture of everything that's happening if i'm in a customer's home and i'm doing this work i'm actually taking a picture of the floor the tile the wall so that i've got proof of what was there before i started and i don't get blamed for someone else's problems but in this case i've got a drop cloth down i'm protecting my environment and i've got a picture of what is we're going to take the panel cover off and we're going to walk you all the way all the way through this let's rock maybe sometime you and i will do a time trial we'll see who's faster but guys um we're going to drop all the materials and materials list into the comments below we're going to drop the code references for what we're talking about we're going to talk about the silent killers and the number three cause of fire and uh trying to keep everybody safe there it is all right easy taking the panel cover off don't rip the heck out of the paint a lot of times these things are painted on you can see right down that edge ah it's just like what the shark said after he ate the clown fish that's funny we've got code violations going on here we've there's no connector on the incoming conduit with the feeds there is no bushing on this wire entry we've got double tapped connections at the top of the panel all right so what i'm going to do is go i'm going to finish documenting what's happening here with pictures i'm going to test the current situation so that if there is something funny that's existing i'm fully aware of that and i'm combating the issue as we go i don't want to be surprised at the end of the project and i'm doing this all with the power on right now because i want to extend my battery life for my lights my power tools and i want the house to have power as long as possible we're reading 250 volts on the incoming feeds which is good we're always going to test hot to hot hot to neutral hot to ground get a good picture of everything that's taking place i do see this is a sub panel that that means that the main panel is elsewhere and is feeding into this panel at this point grounds and neutrals have to be separated and i'm going to tell you why but they're not see here ground neutral on the same terminal bar uh let's see if the housing is grounded and the answer is yes the cabinet the metal cabinet and enclosure itself is grounded but i don't see anywhere where it's well grounded we've got more double tapping going on here plenty of issues to correct plenty so right now all my circuits are looking good and for reference double tapping is what's going on right here it's where there are two wires under one terminal and just gauging by these terminals and their physical shape these terminals are not rated for more than one conductor to create an unsafe condition where the conductors are not properly seated and there's risk that one of them is going to come loose or um that the terminals would be overstuffed it changes the torque specifications like it just throws everything off it's not according to the design right now we look pretty good i'm going to label all of the hot conductors that are landed on the breakers with the labels that have been provided they may not be accurate they may not be thorough but at least i'll have all the information transferred to the new setup and then i will go through and i will thoroughly label all the breakers quick tip about labeling breakers labels may not be occupancy specific can't say timmy's room you've got to say northwest bedroom so you can't have labels that say lights lights lights plugs plugs plugs every label needs to be unique and distinct from every other label but at least capture what we've got i'll transfer it to the wiring and then in this case i don't have any white wires that are being used as hot conductors all of these are black and all of my whites are landed on the neutral bars down here and so i don't have any risk of confusion but sometimes on a two-pole breaker that second wire is white and in that condition it's real important to label that so you don't actually send the wrong voltage to an expensive appliance all right so we've identified all of the circuits that have any kind of labeling connected to them we've taken our measurements we've evaluated what is we've captured the information through photos and now we're ready to turn off the power shut it off titus all right so i'm going to actually not use my non-contact voltage detector i'm going to use my digital multimeter i'm going to use my most i'm dealing with a lot of power here i'm going to use my most reliable tester to verify that everything has been shut off and we're looking good again measuring hot to hot hot to neutral and ground but i'm going to do one more thing this is the first of the silent killers this house was built in 1938 and there's a really good chance that at some point in some remodel somebody has accidentally back fed a circuit such that these wires should be fed from these breakers and they are but there's a chance that there's back fed current that's coming from some downstream connection back across the wire to the breaker itself so i'm going to turn on my non-contact voltage detector and i'm just gonna just check everything real quick even though the main feeds are off there's back fed potential and in this case there's not so we're in the clear i'm gonna start taking things apart back feeding could come from anything that was connected like let's say there are two receptacle circuits and somebody just bridged and accidentally connected two circuits way downstream and such that they're both feeding the same set of wiring even though there should be a separation between the circuits and so now you've put two breakers in parallel with each other such that you have to turn off both breakers to isolate that wiring and that power at this point i know what every conductor in this box does and i'm comfortable just kind of taking mental notes oh that one was tough taking mental notes along the way for anything that i need to know to put this back together properly so one thing that's happening here and the reason that these mains on the top are double tapped is that there's a 60 amp feed into this box and then there's a full pass-through out of this box and i'm assuming at this point that goes to another sub-panel upstairs so uh i've got a correction for that look at that that's been jumpered now here's an age-old question right here is that legal connections in the main electrical panel you guys are going to fight about this all day long but this is what the code says the code says that connections inside electrical equipment are permitted if there is sufficient space which in this case i'd say there is nothing was harmed by the presence of the connection and if the equipment is rated for the purpose now that's the question most manufacturers don't say yeah go ahead and make auxiliary connections inside the main panel and some inspectors will not allow it in our jurisdiction this will pass but not in all jurisdictions so there's a there's a lot of room in the code for interpretation on that point all right so i've identified two things i didn't notice immediately and one is the main neutral feed coming in is really not clearly marked i can't see any distinguishing coloration on it so i'm gonna go ahead and mark it with three wraps of white electrical tape which is a code compliant manner for marking in neutral and i'm gonna just make sure that that does not get mixed up the consequences of mixing up a neutral and a hot conductor could be devastating across the house um explosion like immediate just fry cook boil and then i've got this conductor that's not being utilized my only red conductor in order to get it pulled out and back in i've got to take the wire nut off here but i'm making a firm mental note do not terminate the red conductor and start pulling apart all the connections here and i'm hoping i've got all the right parts and there are no snafus and i'll be able to put it all back together too today i know my wife would love to have power turned back on all right i've got this little wrench this guy is real handy dandy loosen tighten for half inch lock nuts and what he's going to do for me he's going to get me into tight spaces to be able to twist off whoops lefty loosey joel be able to twist off all these lock nuts and uh as soon as they're loose i spin them off by hand but if you don't have a little wrench like this i'll show you what the alternative is a little lock nut wrench will be in the description take a flathead screwdriver find the shoulder of the lock nut i'm using and just get them all started just like that there it is well this old cloth cloth covered wire is fairly susceptible so it looks like i'm being rough on it but i am actually trying to prevent it from abrasion take a look at this one right here look at that one two three places where it's split open this house is due for a whole house rewired in fact that's exactly what i'm gonna do i'm gonna bring you into it in a later video now i'm ready to lay out the new electrical panel here it is but a couple things important to note here uh one you're gonna notice that this breaker is in side to side action motion it this would be a code violation to quote unquote turn it upside down if the breaker was oriented in such a way that down was on and up was off that'd be a violation number one none of these breakers can be oriented in the vertical position because half of them will be wrong if the panel was to be turned on its side and because our main feeds are coming in the bottom we're going to orient the main feeder breaker here at the bottom as well in this case neutrals and grounds are separate here's the second silent killer besides back fed currents is a failure to separate neutrals and grounds see in this case we're after the first means of disconnect which is outside on the carriage house so we have to separate neutrals and grounds because if we don't then the neutral current will actually energize grounding components so you'll have components that are meant for safety and grounding for both personnel and property and they'll become energized with neutral current and actually turn them into a hazardous condition this conduit right here is the best example of that there's a metallic conduit bringing these service conductors in and right now that metallic conduit in the original installation that was energized with neutral current all the way back to the main distribution so if there is a poor connection on that grounding path let's say lock nuts and fittings that weren't snug down those could start to arc and spark with neutral current if you a personnel came in contact with that metallic conduit and they became the pathway of electricity it could be a deadly shock here's one thing that we all learned in school even in physics class that's wrong and that is that electricity takes the path of least resistance that's flat out wrong electricity takes all paths and primarily the path of least resistance so all of this these conduits these fittings were energized in the current installation by neutral current because neutrals and grounds were not properly separated out so in the new panel we have a separate grounding bar that's come like this from the manufacturer and all of our grounds will be terminated here if we've got some that are too short we could add another auxiliary grounding bar and that's what these holes are for they can be drilled and or tapped to the cabinet so the cabinet will be grounded the ground bar will be grounded the incoming conduits will be grounded and everything's going to be safe so this point i've got to lay out the new panel i've got a steel rigid steel conduit coming in the bottom what i'd like to do is start my new panel here and install it i've got to be mindful that the upper limit of the top breaker is six foot seven inches above the floor so i don't want to make it too high but as long as i'm underneath that i'm code compliant and i am going to probe the wall a little bit to make sure i've got a clear pathway up there i'm just going to take a scrap wire a fish tape doesn't have to be anything glamorous to make sure i've got the space before i go cutting the wall open so let me lightly pencil on the wall what i'm dreaming of and imagining and this old panel is a little bit more narrow than our new panel of course well let's start with that probing uh beside the panel i realized that my extra capacity is on the right side the new panels are going to be sold at 14 and 3 8 inch width that should be a nice fit inside a standard stud cavity so i'm gonna hug the the right side line up the bottom i've got a level on the side of it here that is about where i want to be i know you carpenters like your carpenter's pencils but i've got an eraser on mine all right so i'm probing up inside the wall and i want to know before i go cutting it open that i've got space to do that feels pretty good feels pretty good i'm going to open another hole on this side yeah i'm feeling for any kind of obstruction that's up there it feels like the the wall is free and clear of course i'm fighting the wiring that's up there i'm feeling that all i think i'm willing at this point to take the risk clear out some of the stuff i don't want to get missed and still good [Music] so i'm taking it nice and easy here because i'm opening things up so that i don't over commit i'm hitting something right there it's gonna get dicey before it's over i don't want to plow through things that need to be given a little bit more consideration all right i've got a stud there whoo it's going to be dicey make it work nice and easy all right i saw a solid stud right there let's uh open this up it looks kind of a aggressive and abrasive but it's actually safer for the wiring if you're kind of breaking things out of there as opposed to cutting through it and risking the wiring so getting some good this this is the kind of stuff viewers want right a little bit of mayhem oh there's a little space over there too okay i'm ready to exploit it let's see what my overall width is now that i've opened up both sides of this equation oh shoot it's only 14 surgery we need another 3 8 of an inch and that's not gonna come without a fight so at this point this stud has already been carved a little bit we've lost probably half inch up this side i need another 3 8 of an inch i'm very reluctant to pull it off this stud here so i'm going to come over to this stud and transfer my markings over a little bit and i'm literally going to trim this stud 3 8 of an inch all the way down now if you're an engineer an inspector a builder a contractor a carpenter let me know what you think about that because generally speaking i'm gonna say i'm willing especially on a beefy corner like this to take a half an inch off one stud but i know some of you are in freakout mode right now let's go [Applause] you'd be bleeding out the knuckles at this point if you're not wearing gloves so can someone help a brother out no wood chisel on the premises i've got the last little bit on the back side of this two by four that needs to be cut out and my panel is four inches deep so this is a three and a half inch wall plus a half inch of plaster i need the full depth to be clear so i can fit that panel in there and i'm already afraid it's going to be a pretty tight fit as it is all right so now i'm gonna lay things back out in kind of a logical fashion um all right so i'm gonna uh strip all these back with an mc stripper or a bx cutter this is called bx right here and it existed from early 1900s all the way through the 1940s i believe it's the second generation of wiring in homes in america the first was knob and tube the second is bx it does have this kind of cloth looking outer insulation which tends to be in better shape than knob and tube wiring does so i'm going to remove the connectors strip back a length of outer jacket reseat the connector and the reason for that is i want to make sure that everything is going to reach nicely lay nicely inside the panel so it is a relatively time consuming extra step it will take me another 20 minutes to strip this back but it's going to ensure that i've got enough wire length to do exactly what i want to do in this case if i were to just bring it up and land the connector in the top of the panel that's getting pretty short right there the other thing is these are half inch connectors this one's a three three quarter connector but what you'll recognize in the top of the electrical panel the half inch connectors are actually measure 7 8. the reason for that is is because the internal trade size nominal diameter of things like electrical metallic tubing conduit that's actually a nominal 5 8 half inch and so by the time you get the outer diameter of the fitting itself you're up to about seven eighths so this is a one and an eighth for the three quarter that's a seven eighths i'm going to punch them all out in the top of the panel one per no extras i want all the holes to be closed and sealed when i'm done so that if there's a heat incident situation that's contained in the panel as well as possible and let's go check this little guy out right here see if i oh there he is anti-short bushing i'm going to hang on to every one of those because i'm going to slip it back in because what it does is it protects the wire from those sharp metal edges those things have all kinds of funny names pilgrim hats red toppers i don't even know you comment below there's probably a half dozen other names for those too oh all right i'm doing this once just for you guys in case you don't have an mc cutter you don't want to spend the money what i did was i bent it pretty hard and i broke it see i broke the jacket now you don't want to do that unless you're fixing to cut it so i've got my tin snips i'm going to slice right across that line i might need to work it open a little bit there there it is get a little more purchase in there come on it is steel so it's it's a pretty heavy jacket and this has got a pretty small mouth on it come on come on i'm getting through it but i'm kind of not in my way man this is tedious it's just for you guys oh it's terrible ah there it is okay if i had a larger mouth on that it wouldn't have been so bad but these things are they're kind of tiny so i made it i'm going to ease it off i don't want to strip the insulation off my wire i'm holding this the wire straight on this end ah there it goes i'm going to preserve my red label here that i made my circuit identifier at the start of this project easy easy there it is come on let's go got it one down two three four another one two so at this point i'm going to measure the center of the conduit here and i'm going to transfer the mark to the bottom of my electrical panel so i can drill out for this inch and a quarter conduit so i'm at two and a half inches off the wall four inches off the side and i need to make sure that i'm i'm marking in the right location because it's re easy to invert those measurements so start with the panel in its proper orientation i'm going to be in this bottom right corner flip it over being extra careful measure twice cut once four inches off the side it's gonna be here i'm two and a half off the back nothing's been easy so far nothing's been easy but we're overcoming all of it always drilling out the hole trying to stay on the shoulder between the knockouts and it blew out at this point my bit's just going to bounce around in there and it's not going to stay stable in place so i've got a couple clamps here a block of wood i'm going to show you how to overcome yet again yet again so i'm going to clamp this wood on here i'm already through the metal if i wasn't i'd want to take the hole saw off but i've already got my pilot hole come on and i'm going to hold the panel with my knees i like the fact that the wood is there so i'm not putting a bunch of metal shavings into my electrical panel and parts it's going to work guys it's gonna work i'm actually gonna reduce the speed for metal cutting feels good to go fast but it's better on the cut to go slow [Music] [Music] [Music] ah i was trying to go so easy i popped those knockouts out look at that it's just a mess around here it's a mess around here i've got another trick for that guys as i stated earlier you don't want to have open knockouts and what i'm going to have here is partially open knockouts but it ain't over until it's over it ain't over until it's over look at all those metal shavings out of there all right let's land this thing hopefully it fits no guarantees absolutely no guarantees start lacing these in here one at a time as gently and easily as i can slow smooth and smooth as fast y'all this one should also be a four conductor cable it's not i've got i've got things to fix it's not over and won't be over today foreign all right nice all right this is the hardest part right here oh i've got one one connector short look at that ah yes winner uh oh look at that see we want the panel to be flush with the wall so we are going to uh drive it as such all right now we get to land all of the connectors bit by bit into the electrical panel here and sliding the lock nuts look at those old-timey lock nuts look like a tie fighter or something slide those lock nuts up one at a time keeping tension on the wire to hold it into place and it's just a tedious task i'm gonna hand tighten everything in and then i'm gonna come back and snug it because with the bx that metal clad um jacket we've been working with and fighting the whole time that is the ground path you'll notice there's a hot a neutral no ground conductor the jacket itself is the ground so it's got to be firmly connected tightly connected to the electrical panel in order to continue the ground path now some of y'all are going to ask isn't this panel enameled are we actually going to have a good ground path and should we put a half inch bond bushing on every one of these my answer to you is that's not a bad idea all right this is actually a really important little component called a bonding bushing and what i'm going to do to spin it on there is i'm gonna remove the lug okay i thought i lost a part i didn't i'm gonna slide it on there and one thing that i was mindful of when i was lining up my hole to drill for this is i wanted it far enough back from the lip of the panel that i could spin both a lock nut and a bond bushing which i almost forgot my lock nut on to this lock nut is going to be for mechanical securement look at that right on there and i'm gonna snug that down as good as i can and hopefully those threads aren't all messed up sometimes that's why they don't use lock nuts right because the threads get rusted deformed oh it's going on that's beautiful i'm gonna have to fight it the whole way though but i'm gonna fight and now our bond bushing and because this is a metallic conduit coming in the bottom the bond bushing is real important and it's going to fight me too it's real important to get on there because i've got number four conductors or larger because i want to secure the grounding connection of the panel to the conduit itself that's where this bonding bushing comes in and there's a clamp sorry terminal mechanical terminal that is added to the bond bushing to then secure the electrical connection to the conduit my mechanical terminal is in place i've snugged it down and i'm going to remove the outer jacket of this wire which is pretty heavy and kind of tedious but the reason for that is it's not green and ground grounding and bonding conductors are required to be either green or bare so i'm going to make it bare i could use green tape and label it at each end or along its entire length but i'm just going to strip it back so this point i am connecting my bonding jumper from the terminal on the ground bar to [Music] my bonding bushing oh come on come on there it is oh it's tedious oh that's tedious there it is i'm going to do the wiggle and seat method where i'm going to take that stranded conductor i'm going to wiggle and seat wiggle and seat and i've got very little working rooms i'm going back and forth come on come on you can do it all right that's good got quite a bit of leverage on that i'm going to bring it in here do my bonding bushing cut off the extra secure it down do the same thing on this end wiggling seat wiggling seat all right snug this up there's a little movement in there there it is and i always leave a little extra whenever i can that's just for serviceability make it easy on the next guy next guy might be you all right now it's time to secure a panel in place and terminate all of our wires my lovely number two square drive drywall screws i'm going to pull the panel to flush and one thing you want to be mindful of if your opening is a little bit large meaning that gap on the side is too big what you'll do with the screws you'll actually pull the panel out and you'll misalign your panel cover screws so you might need to slip a shim in there to keep the shape and the integrity of the panel cabinet itself so that that cover just slips on with ease i'll be mindful of that on this side there it is all right at this point watch your eyes around all these flying wires man i've had some of these things pop up and nail me just above or below the eye it's kind of scary but my order my sequence of operations is to land my neutral conductors first now take a look at this right here that's pretty frayed i'm not all the way through the bare conductor there yet but like i said my next step with these wires is a whole house rewired to get rid of this stuff the fact that it's deteriorated but contained in the main electrical panel and it's not actually you know i'm feeling the copper i'm feeling the bend there's not a weak spot right there if the copper was compromised because it had been bent and over manipulated i would be concerned about that but i've got the full integrity of the wire and i still have some insulation and it's contained within the panel that has bare and exposed connections anyways so i'm okay with that for knowing it's not going to be forever i'm going to get to it i'm going to replace it i'm going to take my neutrals i'm going to take them one at a time kind of tuck them to the back wrap them through i'm going to leave a couple terminals on the bottom side open in case i take circuits out of the bottom in the future i don't want to have them crisscrossing so i'm going to bring it down to about the fourth from bottom i'm going to mark it with my thumb get my strippers into action start cutting and stripping so uh so see what we've got here um it looks almost like aluminum wire on the the outside but if you look at the cross section real carefully that's actually a shiny little copper so this is what's called tinned copper and it's not aluminum wiring and it is safe to terminate under in the normal practice of copper wiring it just looks different but man it really throws inspectors home inspectors will almost always call that out as aluminum wiring the aluminum wiring in question is really a 1968 69 to 1973 phenomenon and um there's also a cousin to that that's much less common and that is a copper coated aluminum both of those are somewhat concerning and need to be accommodated differently than what we're doing with some of this the bending considerations on that wire the sizing considerations on that wire because it's a lesser conductive material are different they're separate all right without boring you to death i want to bring your attention to a couple more things one afci protection this is a 50 breaker as opposed to a standard non-afci counterpart which is about five dollars um when i was at the store buying these a lot of them were already cut open i think someone had tested them returned them boy keep an eye out for damaged goods here but this afci breaker i'm going to demonstrate how it terminates and i'm going to demonstrate how a standard breaker terminates and this is a going to be a two pull 60 that's going to extend the incoming feed on upstairs to another sub panel that's located almost directly above us one of the questions you might be asking right now is didn't he just terminate a ground wire on the neutral bar because this is my neutral bar exclusive to nothing but neutrals i've removed the green bond screw so this is a floating neutral bar on this side i've got a bonded ground bar well to answer your question this is actually an uncoated or unjacketed neutral it's in this three wire with a 60 amp feed upstairs so hot hot neutral no ground so that needs to be replaced but that is indeed a neutral conductor so here we go i'm going to snap these breakers in give you a good close-up i'm going to leave a few free spots at the top of the panel for future circuits a few free at the bottom i'm going to land all my existing circuits in the center part of the panel there's really that's not a code that's not there's no magic to that i just want to bring in new circuits on the ends so here we go and btw i've already made sure that all my conductors are going to reach everywhere sometimes you'll have one or two short conductors and you want to place those first so i've snapped that into the bus i'm about to terminate it i'm snapping in my afci and real it's real easy it just seats in on the outside rocks in in the center my panel's obviously still off and so question natural question which i hope you're asking is what is this auxiliary pigtail an afci arc fault circuit interrupter breaker and a gfci ground fault circuit interrupter breaker we'll both have this pigtail and the pig tail is what's going to provide the pass-through of both hot and neutral through this circuit breaker and it's going to be looking for that instantaneous arc that is not enough to clear a standard breaker but will cause an afci breaker to trip instantaneously here goes tuck that out of the way and i'm actually going to grab my first circuit here the terminals are labeled there's an n for neutrals i'm going to take my hot conductor and size it up cut it and strip it to the terminal right in there i'm going to give it the tug test and now i'm going to grab the corresponding neutral which i've prematurely landed on the neutral bar i'm going to bring it over to the afci breaker cut it also to length the code states that wiring for bedrooms parlors kitchens dens living rooms and such similar living spaces shall be afci protected so now if you follow with me the neutral path coming in it's not all terminated yet but let's see if you can visualize this my main neutral down here feeds my neutral bus through the neutral bus the neutral um transfers through the pigtail to the afci breaker and then out to the loads at the other end of the circuit so now this afci breaker is going to be properly protecting that circuit all right now i'm landing the main hot conductors in this case on a single phase residential service it's interchangeable which one i land where i'm not going to be reversing motors or anything crazy like that that you'd have to be conscious of in a commercial setting and i'm going to go with the same wiggle and seat method my neutral on the neutral bar hot conductor number one i might say phase a wiggling seat wiggling seat notice i left that just that little extra in there i'm gonna do the same thing over here phase b wiggle and see we're going to see and i'm going to torque this all down to spec the specs can be found on the devices themselves for instance this breaker 55 inch pounds right there torque for those terminals 55 inch pounds the torque for this uh terminal is going to be found on the inside cover and then all the other breakers are going to contain their own torque rating these single pole breakers will be 25 inch pounds that's real common across the board almost universal and uh boy i don't see it there pop this one back out and search for that torque rating hmm oh there it is 45 inch pounds 45 25 55 and probably also 55. all right i'm about to terminate all this into place last question i'd like to answer for you is what do you do with a neutral conductor that's too short well like we said that's the age old question can electrical connections auxiliary electrical connections be made in the electrical panel all right let me recap as we're terminating these wires we've got um 14 gauge wire landing on 15 amp breaker 12 gauge landing on 20 10 on 30 8 on 40 possibly 50 depending on your circumstances 6 on 50 or 60 and that's probably all the sizes that you'll run into in the electrical panel um the last thing i'm going to do is answer the question about how to seal that back up i've got this product called duct seal and the duct seal is like a plato but it's specific to the electrical industry and it's for electrical wiring ducts and not actually air ducts so i'm gonna it's real it's real thick you're gonna it's get it's oil based it's gonna last about forever it's real heavy duty play-doh and what i'm gonna do is i can mold it and shape it to anything i want here but i'm going to wrap it around and i'm going to fill that in and i'm going to create a real seal to close up those openings and i'm going to prevent the infiltration of rodents man how many times have i opened an electrical panel and found a rat's nest in here i'm going to take this extra dust and blow it out of here with a shot vac or a bulb syringe get it out of there i'm going to blow off a little bit of this extra dust finalize my terminations thanks for joining me i welcome you to join us on the next video about surge protection i've got this beautiful panel now how do i protect the rest of the house gfci protection afci protection and surge suppression which is required by the national electrical code

Channel: Electric Pro Academy

Views: 132,295

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Id: v2KMRpTE_Vw

Length: 52min 8sec (3128 seconds)

Published: Tue Dec 14 2021