Remodeling a Master Bathroom | Part 1

hey I'm Bob it I like to make stuff today we're gonna rip out this bathroom [Music] we've done a whole bunch of renovation in our house and it's finally time to move to the master bathroom now this house was built in 1983 by my grandparents and I'm pretty sure that this bathroom has not changed a single bit since then it's mainly just outdated so we're gonna update most everything in here this side of the room is gonna stay pretty much the same we've got a really big mirror that we like the old vanity is still in good shape it might get some paint the cool countertops are kind of a vintage gold Fleck thing that we're gonna keep there's a closet over here that works just fine so all of this is gonna stay pretty much the same this side is where all the works gonna be done for some reason there's a stand-up shower plus a shower/tub combo and then the toilets over here so we're gonna replace this with a nice big glass shower move the toilet from over there to over here and then add a soaking tub and of course we've also got to do tile on the floor we've got to do new lighting in the ceiling but it's gonna start with taking down this awful wallpaper gotta be honest taking down wallpaper is one of my least favorite things in the world but a steamer like this really helps you just fill it up with water and it steams the adhesive on the back of the wallpaper and makes it come off a lot easier now if you've got multiple layers you may have to use some solvents or some other way to get it down but if it's just a single layer that's been put on in the last 20 years this will work pretty well just takes a really long time for it to heat up [Music] we've got all the wallpaper taken down and now it's time to start taking stuff out of the bathroom when you do demolition you don't necessarily have to destroy everything these shower doors can be unscrewed and donated that way somebody can use them as spare parts and we're going to be reusing the vanity and the countertop so we're gonna go ahead and get those out of here first so that they don't get damaged while we tear everything else up before we take up the floor or move anything else out we've got to take out the baseboards a lot of times your baseboards are painted onto the walls and to separate the two you want to score them with a utility knife that way you don't damage the walls when you take them up [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] so down here it looks like they actually plumbed in all of this stuff on top of the back for the cabinet so we're gonna have to cut off the drain here and actually undo this to take off these flange before we can take the cabinet out anytime you cut an old drain line or a vent line it's probably gonna have some nasty smelly stuff in it loose so it's a good idea to temporarily plug it with some paper towel these flanges are actually on top of the backer board as well and to remove those I would actually have to cut off the water to the house and take off all of this so instead we're just going to cut out the backer board [Music] there's a fluorescent light up here in the ceiling and I'd like to take out this soffit completely but first we have to take out the light to see if there's anything else in the soffit that has to stay [Music] [Music] [Music] once you've got the water turned off on the toilet there's still some water in the bowl and in the top of the tank so you want to catch it in something when you go to disconnect everything taking off those two nuts on the bottom so now it's released from the floor and the flange and I'm going to pick it up and put it on to another surface there's all sorts of wax in gross stuff on the bottom of toilets so you might want to have something to set it on [Music] Jenny took care of that wall we've got the toilet out and now it's time to remove the showers these plastic inserts can't really come out without being destroyed we're going to use a reciprocating saw to cut them out but when you cut into these you got to make sure that there's nothing behind them in this case there's a bunch of plumbing right here we don't want to cut through those there's a vent line on this wall but this wall is completely safe so we're going to start there [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] we've got the demolition in the bathroom almost completely finished so now it's time to start working on the new plumbing luckily the bathroom is directly above my shop so I can get to all that plumbing right up in here I've got to swap a drain for a toilet and a shower and I've got to run new supply lines up to the shower to the tub and then a cold supply up to the new toilet if you are not completely and totally comfortable with plumbing just hire a plumber it's totally worth while to have them come in for a day or two to do all this work for you for me I just want to try to do it myself but I am not totally comfortable with copper pipe which is what's down here currently so I'm actually going to chop it off before the bathroom and then convert it over to pics and this is pecs this is a plastic tube that's used as a really common replacement for copper pipes it's cheaper it's easier to work with but just make sure that the codes in your area allow for pecs I got red and blue for hot and cold but there's no difference other than the color there's also a white available typically when you work with pecs you will use a crimper to crimp the end of the pipe around a fitting but I'm going to be using these sharkbite fittings these are actually pressed to fit and they work with both copper and with pecs so they're a great way to join the two materials you just press the pipe in all the way to the end of the fitting and then when you go to pull it back out it locks around the pipe so it's quick and easy to put together but they're also removable there's a simple tool that you can use to release a pipe in case you need to make a change if you're going to work with pecs there's a few tools that you may want to have handy this is called a safe seal tool it lets you know how far the pipe is going to go into the fitting but it also has a small blade in there that will round off the end just to make it easier to put into the fitting you're going to need a way to cut it which you could use a normal pipe cutter just like you would use for copper and if you're crimping the pecs you're gonna need a crimper and something called a go/no-go tool this is a way to check the crimps after you make them but luckily for me since I'm using these push-to-connect fittings I don't need any of the crimping stuff [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] recently I did a mudroom renovation video and I had a similar problem with the cardboard staying on the floor somebody mentioned in the comments that you could use the wall paper steamer to get that cardboard off so we're gonna give it a shot [Music] we've got the floor mostly pulled up now and the steamer worked pretty well but it's just a slow process now before we can start putting in the new Ruffin plumbing and electrical we're gonna deal with this insulation this is an exterior wall here it's got insulation that was behind the shower and it's in decent shape but it is starting to droop because it's been there for over thirty years so we're gonna go ahead and pull it down and get rid of it then replace it with new insulation that has a paper backer which is a vapor barrier now it's time to start doing some of the electrical now electrical is one of those things again like plumbing if you're not totally comfortable with it just hire an electrician they'll get it done very very quickly luckily I don't have to do anything complicated I really just need to move a couple of lines and add a couple of switches so in this case I've got a couple of lines that come in here and they're routed on the front of the two-by-fours this was all hidden by the soffit that was here originally but now that that soffit is gone I need to put drywall back onto these surfaces and these wires are in the way but luckily all I have to do is cut the power disconnect them from this box and then pull them up and reroute them above these two by fours the last thing I really need to add over here is one box right here so that I can mount a new light above the mirror [Music] [Music] ideally you would only want to drill through the middle of a stud like this but sometimes an old construction you can't do that now luckily you can notch out the side of a 2x4 as long as it's less than 25% if it's a load-bearing stud so to fit these wires around this upper edge up here we're just going to notch out a small area [Music] [Music] I'm about to start doing the plumbing but one thing I need to do first is to lift up the floor where the shower used to be there's gonna be a toilet there now and so I need to lift that piece of flooring up to match the rest of the room so when I tile it all it will be level we're going to replace that with a simple piece of 3/4 inch plywood [Music] I've got a new bathroom fan that I'm going to put in that's right up there and the old one is controlled by this timer I want to move this up into the wall and at a light switch to control all of those so I'm going to take this double gang box and put it right about here these are generally about 48 inches from the ground so I'm just going to measure up and notch out a place to put this in then fix the drywall right on the studs I'm going to try to leave as much of this in place as possible [Music] before I do anything else in the walls I'm going to go ahead and put up some insulation on that exterior wall and for that I'm going to use some r-13 and this has a paper backing on it that backing is for moisture resistance because I'm not going to be using a plastic sheeting when I've not used plastic sheeting in the past I've had a lot of people complain about it but whether you use that or not actually has a lot to do with your local codes the reason you might need a vapor barrier is based on the difference in temperature between the outside and the inside of your house in the coldest part of the year if you live in a really really cold climate you probably need one but otherwise you may not so be sure to check your local code you can buy this stuff made to go into my four wall and it's made for the right length so you can stick it right in and not have to cut it it does have a little piece here that you can staple to the studs if you need to but it actually will hold itself in place until you get the drywall long you want to press it in there but you don't want to crunch it up a lot because that will not make it very effective if you do have any excess land over here just cut it off with the utility knife I tried to put it off as long as I can but I'm at a point now where I have to replace the drain lines for the shower and the tub to start figuring out where those need to go I have to look at the shower system I'm going to use and this is the Kirti system by Schluter this is a system of everything that you need to fully waterproof and lay out a shower to get it ready for tile the thing that I'm trying to figure out right now is where the drain goes and that is all based on the shower pan now the pan in this system is made of two pieces and these are pre sloped with the drain built in and you can just drop them into place now when I put this in place I immediately found that there's going to be a problem there's actually a joist right below where this needs to go and I can either carve out the joist or I can look for another option and in this case I decided to actually flip the shower around and put it over here it'll work out just fine and there's nothing in the way of the drain [Applause] [Music] so I can lay this in place over here and then trace the area that needs to be cut out for the drain hole and it actually works out pretty well to flip the shower around this way because now there's going to be a shower drain right there and a tub drain over here that goes into the existing pipe where the toilet used to be that pipe is much larger and so that should be big enough to carry the flow of two drains at the same time in case that ever happened another advantage is that now both of these drains can share the same vent line which is already right here in the wall [Music] [Applause] [Music] so that's the hole for the drain this is the vent pipe that I'm going to be tying into and typically I would go ahead and put two more holes here for the new supply lines to come up for the shower but there's already a hole in this plate for some reason so we're just going to use that next we're gonna put in the new toilet flange in this area now to code the center of the toilet flange needs to be at least twelve and a half inches from an unfinished back wall and fifteen and a half inches from the outside walls I've got more than enough room this direction so I'm just gonna measure 12 and a half off the back wall to find the center point and another thing that's kind of specific to me there's a joist that runs right here really close to where this needs to be so I've got a flange that actually has an angled piece in it and it can turn so you can drop it in place and then angle this where it needs to go [Music] [Music] I've got that hole cut out and unfortunately even with this angle it's just a little bit too close to be able to drop in there I'm really only going to need probably another half of an inch so I'm just gonna make this hole a little bit wider so I can slide the whole thing over so I've got this ready to go in but before I attach it I'm actually gonna put this thing in first this is called the tile buddy and basically it's just a little spacer made to go underneath the flange and the point of it is to lift up the flange above the thickness of the underlayment and the tile that way when you lay the tile you're tiling up to a flat edge rather than to the circle of the flange it's not totally necessary but it will save you some time later on we've got the toilet flange in place we've got a hole cut for the shower drain and now we need a hole for where the tubs gonna drink now it turns out where the toilet used to be that hole is in the exact right spot but it's a little bit too big and there's obviously been some water damage around it so instead of just using that hole I'm gonna cut up and replace this piece of plywood and then drill a new hole to the right size exactly where it needs to be [Music] [Music] I've just finished putting together some of the drain lines and this does look really crazy but it actually does everything that it needs to do originally there was a tub a shower and a toilet all going to a three inch drain line and that comes back to this point right here so we're carrying off of that then spilling up to a one and a half inch drain for the tub and a two inch drain for the shower and then it also splits off right here and goes up to the main vent stack on this two-inch pipe I cut and fit all these pieces together without using any glue for now just to make sure that I can get everything turned and everything connected and now that I've got it all in place I'm going to go back and mark each one of these joints so I know how to line them up and how far to push them together and then we'll start gluing everything up for each one of these you want to make sure to put a line across the joint so you know how to twist them and you also want to put a mark like this so you know how far to push them together that way you can reassemble them just the same way that they are right now once you get glue on [Music] now I've got all those glued up except for this one because this goes under the shower and I don't have that drain in place yet I haven't glued up anything above here and that gives me the freedom to be able to swing this p-trap around and get it lined up with the shower drain before I glue it all together so I'm going to leave that as it is right now and move on to the toilet drain the drains are all in place and good to go I put in a shutoff valve on the old copper lines and from those shutoff valves I'm going to connect the new PEX tubing the PEX is super easy to work with in fact you cut it with normal plastic cutters it cuts that easily and then these fit right into the sharkbite fittings that I got so now it's time to cut all the pieces to length to get all the attachments made and then connect them to the joist with these little clips these snap right around the pecs and they get nailed right into the wood to hold them into place this part should be the easy part of plumbing [Music] I got all the supply lines run downstairs that was super quick and easy pecs is one of my new favorite things but I pushed a hot in the cold line up into where the shower is going to be and now it's time to install the mixing valve we picked out a showerhead and a mixing valve and it comes with a roughened valve with it and so this is what gets attached to the wall and the supply lines to attach this to the pecs we're going to use these fittings they screw on here and then pecs pushes right in so it couldn't be easier this also comes with something called a plaster guard and this is a temporary cover to make sure that nothing gets damaged on the inside while you're putting up the walls of the shower it comes with instructions about where to mount this relative to the studs and so we've got some spacers that we're gonna put in to mount this to but first we're going to take off this cover so we can put on the connections for the pecs [Music] [Applause] I've got these spacers built up so that the plaster guard sits right on top of the studs the wall that I'm going to put on here is the same thickness as this ring so that shows me that the wall will come right out to here exactly where it needs to be so now that I've got the spacers in there and I know it's in the right position just got to take this off and screw it in place the valve is securely in place and I will have to cover that back up with the plaster guard eventually just to keep it safe but now we're ready to hook up the pecs [Music] [Applause] with that little piece of plumbing in place that means the basic plumbing for the shower is finished which also means that part 1 of this video is finished we'll be back in part two really soon to finish up the entire room and we have a huge amount of work to do big thanks to Lowe's for sponsoring this entire renovation I've got a bunch of links down in the description to the Lowe's website where you can find all the tools and materials that I've used so far part two will be coming up very soon but in the meantime if you want to find some other projects we've got a whole bunch of different types for you to check out right there and if you're not subscribed go ahead and do that so you can be notified as soon as Part two comes out that's it for this and Gus thanks for watching see you next time hey I'm Bob hey

Channel: I Like To Make Stuff

Views: 1,108,983

Rating: 4.943172 out of 5

Keywords: bathroom remodel, bathroom ideas, bathroom remodel ideas, demolition, bathroom, lowes, lowe's, lowe's partner, sponsored, home renovation, bathroom renovation, rough in, plumbing, knocking out a wall, replace shower, remove shower, toilet, electrical, schluter, shower pan, install drywall, drywall, iltms, how to, how-to, diy, do it yourself, i like to make stuff, bob clagett, josh price, jonathon forby, anthony rose, diy bathroom remodel, small bathroom remodel

Id: -xGo6mNWV4o

Length: 22min 29sec (1349 seconds)

Published: Thu Jan 31 2019