Rebuilding My Grandad's 16 Gauge Stock - Part 2 The Buttstock

okay so welcome back into the shop a quick reminder for those of you who have been with the channel for a while I do have two unlisted videos part 1 and part 2 with no voice over I know some you guys really like that and I want to make sure that I got you covered on that so those will be linked in the description if you don't want listen in the voice over they're there for you first off this is the second part to this two-part series on building these stocks for my Grandad's 16-gauge the first step is to drill out the holes for the bolt that goes in that holds the stock to the receiver so I'm gonna do all that on my lathe that makes it very easy I used my drill press in the the last stock I built for my 12-gauge and it was a nightmare so this new lathe is making things a breeze it's actually I've got to drill three different size holes so that first one holds the bolts and the washer and I have to extend it here I don't have enough length in that Forstner bit so I have to use a just do it by hand and sight it and try to keep it as straight as possible and go to the depth I need and then I'll come back in the other direction with two different size holes one of which is just enough clearance to keep the bolt allow the bolt to go through it and then the other one there's actually a recess nut that comes down from the receiver are actually the trigger of the 16 gauge and that needs to fit into a hole as well so I'll drill the bigger hole first obviously and then come back and finish it off with the smaller sized hole this osage is really hard and drilling in grains a little bit tricky and you have to get the speeds right i heated up a few drill bits you can see magically some blue tape appeared on that little bit to mark my depth I forgot to put that on there so I added that that will allow me I will show me where to stop so I back it off the lathe and then switch out bits this is a much longer I think is a 3/8 in the matter of 5/16 it's much longer bit and really at this point I'm crossing my fingers because this is where I finish off the holes and it should meet up to the hole I drilled from the other side if all goes well and I remember on the last dock I made it actually didn't work out I got off at an angle and actually it's shaping through the hole but this one luckily it all worked it all came together in these holes are actually at two different angles slightly different and you can kind of see through here and catch the light coming through but they were tricky little holes to drill and without the drill press it it really would have been a nightmare to do so I'm glad I had it the next step obviously we want to cut out the rough shape of the stock I just traced the old one it's the easiest way to do it and that I have a half inch blade here I'm a little 14 inch bandsaw which is actually too wide of a blade for these curves but I'm just making it work a lot of times I'll use the big oliver for this cuz I have a smaller blade for that but changing out blades on the Oliver bandsaw is quite the procedure so I didn't want to get into that I love some sad foot on the top of this stock hoping to have to have a nice little accent to I liked it I like the idea of having that ended up shaping it off so it didn't it really made no sense at all but it was a good idea I think so with the shape cut I need to I need to cut the section of the stock that fits into the receiver there's a recess in that and a lot going on in there I start by using a little palm router and just hogging out waste and then chiseling it i've pre laid everything out based off the previous stock that's why it's so nice to have the old stock because you can just use it for for all of your layout chisel in here just working out those corners obviously a round router bit can't cut a square corner so I want to square those off and then there's a little mortise that drops in from the bottom you'll see here in a second and that is for part of the trigger and we're going to do that on the drill press and you see the comparison and how I still need to do that bottom slot slash mortise and like I said we'll do it on the drill press right here with a Forstner bit it's a three-eighths the the size that I needed was bigger than 3/8 I didn't it didn't dial in to a perfect size of a drill bit it wasn't all so I just shoot the three it's a chiseled it out I don't worry about blowing out here and go all the way through its split this is gonna be inside you'll never see it so I just go for it and then it'll crack and then come back with a chisel and size it exactly so now that I can actually fit the receiver on to the stock and make sure everything lines up and is in there right and it is and now with that I can trace the profile of that receiver around the stock with a pencil and that gives me the reference to shake too there's also the recoil pad here that goes on the back of the stock I can use that as a reference points point and trace it and then at the bottom of the pistol grip I'm not sure exactly what you call this little trim piece I just want to use it as a point of reference so I trace the shape of it at the bottom of the pistol grip now that I have those three reference points it makes it really easy to shape for the most part because I just work to those lines and I and I can use those references to get a general idea of what the shape needs to be always start roughing it out and your draw knife is a great tool to do rough work if you're good with it you can do really fine work as well if you had the control I'm finding it difficult here because this house you know the Osage is a hardwood and it's cutting fine but it wants to split in some areas so I don't do a whole lot of roughing out what the jaw now if I end up swapping it out for a low-angle spokeshave or a wooden spokeshave which is set for a heavy cut and it's what I'm doing right now so yeah there's a lot there's a lot more control a lot let's tear out and then obviously I've got my good spoke shapes here that are more for fine cut and have zero - no tear out if they're tuned box so I continued fitting it and when I get close I use a knife to mark it because that's way more accurate than pencil it gives me a little bit more accurate of a line to work - you know I just keep working it you can see that layout at the bottom of the pistol grip kind of working to that all in all this process probably took three hours sitting here in shaping my rasp really come in handy to do tight curves we can't you just hook shaving and cut at two different there ask the courts and a fine and they work really well to shape with even on the Osage you can see the comparison as I worked I worked at pistol grip area of the stock so now I'm working a little bit on the back end of the the buttstock I start with a scrub flame again that's gonna take a heavy cut and take a lot of waste off and then I work down to a block plane here taking finer cuts more control less tear out and you can tune it up with a sharper blade and it was great so you have more support on your wood fibers still gonna get some tear out much more much better work of it than struggling with that shape I want to work on kind of the fine details of the pistol grip this is the really fun part I get to get the gouges out and and really show off what hand what something done by hand can do as opposed to a machine I can keep crisp lines in certain areas so I start with a really small gouge in here I've got a bigger gouge it kind of fits that scoop a little bit better and just continuing on one side and then once you have one side word the way you want it to look you can flip it and kind of match it inside it you can see how that's coming together here there's actually a little bit of a scoop out in that pistol grip and this is Matt again matching the other stock and what I'm doing is just getting a feel for my hands how do I want this to feel mark it with pencils so I know kind of work I can see where I'm taking material off basically so it helps me gauge where I'm moving the material off the wood and I'll just again shape it with the rasp and you know get a feel for how it feels in my hand I wanted to be comfortable so process but for me I love this organic style of shaping things I think it's so much fun that's why I like to do these stocks you know I just enjoy a shaping process and you know you always want to cite it and make sure that both sides are the same cuz if you're looking down on this stock and one is different than the other that drives me crazy I want it to be even I want to look the same so if you pay attention here you're about to see a mistake where I actually run my chisel into the metal part of my advice yeah I got to swap out chisels actually I'm going on a wider chisel I like working with wider chisels these are all my wider ones are always at a lower angle bevel and I just I don't know I think they're they're a little bit more control there so this is the V chisel I was telling you about just kind of working that drop-off down into the pistol grip and this will make more sense as we get further into the carving because we're going to take a lot of that material to the left off but I'm gonna do that after I shape this curve here's where I'm gonna start taking that material off it starts with a block plane the trick here is you can't get the block plane all the way into that pistol grip it's gonna hit the wood and then it's gonna stop so you can't make the cut all the way so I work from the back kind of tapering it up to that pistol grip and then come with a chisel and chisel away the rest of that waste and I was fortunate that the grain was working in my advantage a lot of times when you do this technique if you don't have good grain you're just it's just not gonna work you got unsupported fibers you're just cutting them away and if the grain is running the wrong way it'll just split the fibers is a post-it cutting you're basically just using a chisel as if it's a hand plane I was trying to take long even cuts the best I can with a spokeshave to clean up and straighten those cuts out trying to level them out like I said you can only go so far and you gotta come in with the chisel and finish it off and I want a nice crisp transition from that point on chiseling to the pistol grip I don't want that to be sloppy or all I guess washed out I want it to be a crisp stop going both ways almost like there's a line there and those little details are what you can do with hand tools if you were just sanding this or grinding it's so hard to control you can't add those little details in where you have these crisp edges and nice transitions so as I was talking about early the transition this is this is kind of me fine-tuning it with a chisel just kind of trying to honestly I was trying to put a little bit of a curve to the transition up to the up towards the top of the stock on both sides trying to make them similar in the same you're obviously not gonna get it perfect and that's what's great about hand tool work as well and she's never gonna be perfect you can always tell to them by hand but you want to do the best that you you can do with it a little sandpaper I do sand at the end of this obviously you gotta get full marks out you want to be careful with the sandpaper not to ruin those transitions there's my dog mayor always in the way he doesn't move he sleeps a lot so this little pup upstander is a great tool there's actually air and that sanding bladder there and it has a little give to it and it'll follow the profile and I have to have a one twenty two to twenty one here and I I can stand off all the toolmarks clear out any tear-out works really well and also put the recoil pad on there and just sand it flush because it's a it's a little bit bigger so a coat of shellac goes on it that is not the traditional finish for gunstocks I'm using the shellac because I want to get right into checkering and it's a quick quick finish to dry and it's D wax so I can put oil over this after a checker so I'll throw a couple coats of D wax shellac on and then I'm gonna knock through this checkering pretty quick because it's very repetitive you saw it in the four end so I'm sure you guys don't want to sit there and watch every single detail the checkering the first thing to do is lay out I'm copying the pattern of the old stock I don't have a lot of knowledge of checkering patterns like like I should mention in the first video this is my first stock to ever check her I don't know a lot about checkering - very new to me I'm trying to learn it right now so I would not call myself that great at it although on this run I do feel like I gained a better understanding of the tools the sounds they're making how they work I also many people commented and suggested to get a visor magnifying visor which was a great idea actually kind of thought about that but didn't I don't know it's part of you that thinks you're not your eyes are good enough you don't need that but yeah it helped a ton I got one and it really helps keep you on track so I didn't explain this but I cut the border first and now I'm just going back and cutting these series of lines it's 24 lines per inch and it's yeah it's just really repetitive so the main thing about this is just staying focused really trying to stay on top of it and not lose your focus and get your lines off because once you get your lines off it's really hard to get back on I'm coming back now in the opposite direction so here I'm starting to form that diamonds that you're gonna make when you check her so you basically make the lines going one way and the lines going the other way and then you have to deepen them out and point them so you can see I got a visor on super-helpful there's also a cradle you can buy for these stocks that would probably help out I've just didn't being creative and chucking it up on my lathe but it's not the best way to hold the workpiece Here I am finishing up the the the check ring pattern with that with a border there's a little beading tool that will beat around it and that again to is it's tricky I haven't been able to make that bead exactly how I want it doesn't go quite deep enough and I think part of that might be that this osage is just so hard that you it's hard for these tools to work it down like it needs to be done but for the most part I was pretty happy with it I always have this piece to look back on you know this is gonna be mine so hopefully in three or four years I'm a lot better at it and I can compare it and say oh that's what it looked like when I started all right so here it is the completed ethica model 37 16 gauge we've done the buttstock obviously with all the checker and you can see already starting to oxidize to this pretty rust color it's got a little ways to go still but we'll get there and then this one's obviously a little bit behind a little more yellow in it's just really really cool looking I think it's by far my favorite pretty happy with how that checkering came out and just the you know as I was telling you about those crisp trans transitions you get it has a real nice feel in the hand and just an all-around really pretty looking stock really pretty looking piece of wood I had a blast making this there is so much time in building this it really is a labor of love and the fact that it was my granddad's makes it even cooler because this is mine now and I'm gonna hold on to it and this osage will likely outlast the gun if you didn't get a chance to see it this is was also my granddad's this is the first one I ever made there was no checking in this one check ring in this one but it's a beautiful piece of Texas walnut on there and this is a 12-gauge so these are both mine they were both my granddad's and I restocked both of them so if you're interested and you enjoyed that one go check out this one I like I mentioned I did this on the drill press and we had a little bit of an error in there had to fill it with black epoxy but that's what happens you live and learn and that's what I'm learning on the check ring I'm learning how to do it and I'm not great at it but I'm getting better at it so as always appreciate you guys tuning in y'all are awesome y'all been very supportive I hope you've enjoyed the the voiceover content and remember I'm not gonna leave you hanging if you don't like it I'm gonna put the videos unlisted in the description so you still check it out have some exciting content in the works and a possible really big project I haven't decided I'm going to pull the trigger on it yet but I'll give you a little hint of what it is it involves something silver that you would sleep in so it's a restoration and it's something I'm not gonna write in my head I think I'm gonna do it I'm pretty excited about it like I said thanks for tuning in and we'll see you next time

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Keywords: andy rawls, andy rawls bandsaw, andy rawls bed, andy rawls blog, andy rawls boots, andy rawls cutting board, andy rawls demolition ranch, andy rawls instagram, andy rawls merchandise, andy rawls spoon, andy rawls table, andy rawls workbench, andy rawls youtube, asmr, diy, go and make it, goandmakeit, hand made, how to andy rawls, how to sharpen chisels, relaxing wood, texas, woodworking, woodworking asmr, checkering, checkering a forend, drilling on lathe

Id: R21rkBMdhL4

Length: 19min 2sec (1142 seconds)

Published: Mon Nov 04 2019