Realmonte's Underground Salt Cathedral | Full Episode | TRACKS

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Italy a magnificent country it's all here it's quite breathtaking a place where I feel deeply connected this is where my grandmother pollutes is journey began in this series I'm returning but I'm leaving the mainland to explore Italy's extraordinary islands revisiting memories haven't been here since I was a child and I thought I'd make a pilgrimage and building new ones Wow warning warning warning warning I mean this is one of the maddest things I've ever done [Applause] feels like a once-in-a-lifetime experience on a journey of discovery from the ancient rugged beauty of Sardinia the remains here at spine-tingling to the splendor and surprises of Sicily and some of the Mediterraneans hidden treasures that does just feel a million miles away from anywhere else at this it's one of Sicily's most striking secrets I can't believe it it's been too long this is my Italian island adventure [Music] my Island Odyssey has reached its final leg the South of Sicily to me the most untouched region of Sicily its coasts are wild and beaches deserted the mountainous landscape is peppered with olive and almond groves I'll be admiring the beauty of its famous baroque towns before heading to the rail Monte coast to explore a fascinating industry and I'll be going offshore to the exotic island of Pantelleria before ending my trip but southern Sicily is most northeastern point for a seafaring fiesta for the traveler looking to explore Sicilies diverse history this region delivers I am particularly fond of this part of Sicily because of the impact that you see that culture after culture has left from the Norman churches to baroque palazzi it's all here it's quite breathtaking I can still remember my surprise when visiting in my 20s at how accessible some of its stunning remains were I'm at the value of the temples in Agra gentle there are three temples in the line across this valley and it's one of the most important sites in Sicily and the remains here at spine-tingling it's rather strange I'm sure to some people that you can find better ruins here than you can in Greece it's changed somewhat because 15 years ago I could still clamber all over it you could pick up bits of column wherever you went but look it's amazingly complete I'm so excited to be back here in son Sicily I can't believe it it's been too long [Music] the South is a region that begs to be explored I had some great times traveling with a friend but I think there's anywhere in Europe with such a rich fabric as there is here we hired a car and just drove and drove on a 20 pound budget we lived and ate like kings and I remember being particularly struck by the beautiful honey huge architecture all around me a wonderful starting point is our teacher a perfect jewel of an island within the ancient city of Syracuse there is no better time to take in its beauty than when day breaks this is what one comes to Italy for I defy anybody anybody not to have their breath taken away by this in this light with the swallows above my head it's just perfect there is something jewel dropping about the particularly flamboyant nature of the southern Sicilian verloc what it has is this patrimony it's just unlike anywhere else and that is why I keep coming back less than an hour south of the International Airport of Catania you'll find the heart of Sicilian Baroque a cluster of stunning towns that were all rebuilt in a simultaneous wave after a devastating earthquake the elegant streets of nought or earth sight to behold but the historic town of Ragusa offers even more here you can discover an almost forgotten highlight of this region at a shop in the historic Center I'm meeting some of the women who still cherish a craft that's been passed down through the generations since the 14th century it's a unique form of embroidery one where you have no idea of the skill required Irene rules are with Maria to see one special technique which is called filitosa Giuliano that is really only done here of pulled linen threads it's a tradition that's all but died out and that Maria has been trying to reestablish over the last 18 years and will a question is aim cured of elasticity Lea and Kristen are tile anything I wanna bet on she when I bought that falaka Siciliano was once an essential skill that was taught to girls from a young age good boy female of Oshawa Nolan I got sake I don't know nice to do Talia phenomenon Imperato to Toledo nabu-san okay for sure Chester don't miss him in October rebels up I love this really really reminds me of my monopoly T who was incredibly proud of her bits and bobs owning a piece of this intricate thread work is like owning a piece of art oh yeah baby this is for a baby's bed a sheet and a pillowcase for a royal baby bear law it's a craft for their more patient among us quantity quantity for volume another laboratory Tommy no no the temperature wallet my number case Illawarra to t journey mississippi practice on this general jordan super far away boy this joseph are very appreciated their very own across I've been laughed saying to Maria this is second nature but to me this delicate embroidery is just baffling so that bit of paper is a design which is then drawn onto this and one capisco common quick whistle only fashion no but crystal [Music] crystal design you either across this village Vlado I sort of understand how on earth that happens Harbhajan if we started second and a team conducted first role in a show it's really tired [Music] they say gonna eat the same neon on Avram myelopathy in Sandton this was a past home after a house fire was done just think on that so what you do is nothing the three the four threads three threads like honestly it's made me go cross-eyed just looking at a perk evolute acapella coma far across the lagoon take me sm previa Sciuto ill lavoro de los pilotos Siciliano yavari mission on Sempra phot a poem que ver que una tradiciĆ³n de la nostra tara quindi on peccato by the bursa I don't think this is the profession for me we work famous like patients I have I take my hat off to Maria de Vere salon Papa said she says you've got a bit bit touched to do this work da da da mr. van envisioned more intelligence intelligence on your company are a more precarious Eva I thought Maria was astonishing she's so full of energy and she sent dizzy a stick that is an incredibly beautiful craft and it'd be tragic if it died out I'm bidding a hasty retreat but in truth I'm in no hurry to leave this beautiful town because next I have to go deep underground if I'm to discover Sicilies most spectacular secret [Music] I've made it the southern shores of real monta where there is a natural phenomenon that has to be seen to be believed thus called-- a turkey these are Turkish steps I've never seen them before amazing it's so beautiful I've never seen anything like this anywhere in the world just amazing I was so lucky to be here the so-called Turkish steps derived their name from a time when our pirates more their boats here while they invaded the local towns they are formed from a blinding white sedimentary rock that cascades down to the sea even nature in this part of the world conspires to make you feel completely and utterly bewitched it's one of Sicily's most striking secrets today locals and tourists will spend the day luxuriating on these striking white rocks not me I'm interested in what lies beneath for here in real monta the intrepid explorer can go on a journey deep underground I'm about to enter a subterranean salt mine and I'm starting to doubt my sense of adventure I'm not brilliant at underground I'm a bit nervous about whether I'm going to feel claustrophobic I hope it's interesting enough to distract me luckily I have Calogero the boss here as my guide and protector this is well and truly off the beaten track of most visitors [Music] going down to a depth of three ounces [Music] I'm actually feeling quite anxious [Music] quanto cuantos Alistar at the only one no yeah no yeah mana media that my boss I've got it's a quantity put into context when you consider that the salt has existed here for six million years was trained military prosecutor Windell Mediterranean Aviva pupil megamen token aqua fresca the loggia wind even though cross system of but you know event got port aliza come enjoy operatic this salt is what was left behind six million years the roads were driving through now are created by the gradual extraction of the salt they literally have scraped it off the walls creating this huge tunnels it's amazing that this is a kind of product that was deposited so many years ago and it's still going and shankar ankara basanta sullivan quanti / 2000 yamato on days of pakistan you could say can call that she saw know that there are 40 which in question Topher and Emilio need it on deposit Oh gracias one of the few grossly the process is sarin or over there's not suit there are more than a hundred kilometers of ghostly tunnels in this subterranean Wonderland very impressive this mind produces salt for gritting roads across Europe and America Mamiya it's a resource that's constantly in demand and keeps the machines here busy I'm a chemist and a Malucci on amazingly impressive operation this is a bit extracted that's very good you're working with the sea anybody down here but apparently there are some benefits to being among so much salt that call amidst the grit and chaos of this mine in its machinery I discover something really quite magical here in the depths of this mine you can come to worship in a Cathedral of salt it's one of only two subterranean cathedrals in the world that wonderful look at these wonderful carvings the Holy Family but my definite favorite is the crucified Christ made by the salt miners carved by the salt miners for their devotions [Music] it's been created as a haven of safety for the miners in an otherwise perilous place I could imagine that these men working underground find some comfort here because it is a very strange environment in which to be working and one that I certainly wouldn't be able to handle but I am staggered by the scale of it by the facts and figures that have been given to me it's incredibly impressive operation and and when I won't forget in a hurry I can't pretend I'm not glad to be above ground but cakes in salt I'm in need of some rejuvenation just half an hour's drive further along the coast heading west is one of my uncle Rocco's hotels and it would be remiss of me to come all this way and drive straight past the salt mine was an experienced one I'm unlikely to repeat and I'm glad to have had it but my goodness I'm much happier to be here now with the sea and all this green around me this island has traditionally not been rich in anything except for the amazing producer there is here the weather provides perfect growing conditions for almost everything and so people might have been poor but they always eat well it was the main appeal for my uncle who chose this part of the island to build a luxury hotel here at villa Duda which commonly means vegetable you can't fail to feel the connection with Sicilies roots and particularly the land it's like its own little province here it's bigger than Monaco and even the agricultural area is pretty impressive it's over 2600 square there's over 3000 orange trees over 2,000 olive trees 50 lemon trees there's masses of producer you can eat literally as soon as it's picked the coastline is the other big draw here southern Sicily has miles of lonely slightly windswept sandy beaches it feels very rule in a way and it's quite hard to think that actually were in a very populated part of Western Europe it feels like we're further away than that you can smell there's a very strong smell of seaweed and that is because this is one of the few spots where there's this miraculous stuff Corpus Adonia which helps clean the oceans it releases oxygen this is one of the cleanest parts of the sea in Sicily [Music] the resort also celebrates one of Sicily's oldest and most colorful exports ceramics because this island mines clay of the finest quality sculpting is an ancient tradition with roots that date back to 1200 today artists and sculptors continue to produce an array of work from tiles to traditional trinkets but what I love is how the pieces tell the agricultural story of this region so this is a very traditional looking design and its traditional and because of what it depicts which are the lemon and the pomegranate and the pomegranate in particular is a sign of prosperity which is why it's so popular to put up in a house I love Sicilian ceramics Marx is always turned me off because every time I come to this part of the world I always always buy something and he has to cut it back handheld on the plane I have bowls of every shape and size I must have 40 in my house Alberto has been sculpting intricate figurines like these for over 50 years he's making a drunkard and you can see he's got a flacon in one hand and a jug in the other he looks like I felt last question about a multi-party colonization of our cube sea level lofty generally to Toluca since approach attention yamato-kun elementary synagogue deserves our own for to tourists amber ogia no abdomen can contain a disappearance the the quest phase that wait a factor as for Lanisha say color in determined voices the poetic Ozzy fact opposing party vediamo Karina Noi Rico Chris is emotional Walter Karina but publicity he's really skilled and it is admirable I love it sadly I won't be able to add to my collection because next I'm going off saw to a remote and mysterious island closer to Africa than Europe Pantelleria [Music] as I age ever closer to the foreign shores of Tunisia Sicilies largest offshore island lies waiting to be discovered the Black Pearl of the Mediterranean Pantelleria it's a short flight or a ferry journey away from Sicily but here the magical grottoes and lava stone terrain feels like another world strikingly this is the windiest island of the mediterranean once a volcano that blew over 600,000 years ago Nature has kept the upper hand here ever since as I'm about to discover I've come to one of the islands vineyards donnafugata to meet owner Jose on an intensely blustery day [Music] hi and welcome to fun trivia thank you so much a tour of this vineyard is not only a great way to soak up some culture but will also open your eyes to the particular quirks of living here panting idiot where Europe meets Africa unbelievably agriculture thrives on this dry windswept Island very very windy day is it often like this well of course Pont Olivia is the island of the wind it's very strong wind and very constant during the year it's one of the most striking element of the microclimate at the island over the centuries the farmers have managed to adapt to the extremities by creating a unique form of training the vines and bushes the farmer on Pantelleria Island the need to protect the vine the olive trees from the wind so as for the vine he decided to to dig a hole in the soil so to cultivate the plant as a bush very low with the branches resting on the floor in a horizontal way it's very very creative and typical of the island so you never let them get very high you prune them so they stay low so they escape the worst effects of the wind exactly this method of training vines has been recognized by UNESCO must be rather unique this is great this is great because it is the first time in the in the in the history that UNESCO recognized World Heritage rural and agricultural practice the way you train a vine the distinctive lava stone plays a vital role here two mile upon mile of terracing not only protects the produce from the buffeting breeze its crevasses trap moisture from nighttime June giving the plants of valuable water source during the day this clever system makes it possible to grow everything from capers to citrus fruits it's just incredible because from the outside you see a fortress yeah and you say it's gonna be inside just a tree this is the only way you can grow citrus fruit on this windy Island the only way so that's very clever so healthy so healthy very green you see very deep green so it's in perfect condition but the real star of this 168 acre vineyard is a special type of grape variety which flourishes here called ZB book some of the vines here are over a century old the wine produced for them is world renowned the zero is the type of musket and zippy bow in this special condition give great result in term of the aromas I'm dying to try some wine I've been invited to join the rest of the team who work here for lunch along with a spot of wine tasting I'm about to try donnafugata as most celebrated wine benriya the production that goes into this wine means that it doesn't come cheap a bottle of this prestigious nipple will cost around 30 pounds is a wine made from dried grapes so not only fresh grapes you you smell the barrier and you feel wow I am on Pantelleria Island I am in Sicily I am in the Bavarian sea and now let's have a sip and now you have maybe something more intense hmm I just can't I mean honestly I can't go with the color it's seductive I found all your wine seductive and they're wonderful so nice thank you [Music] the precious cb4 grape was an arab import one of many southern influences that have endured here ever since their invasion in the 8th century Pantelleria houses are another known as the muzie many of these single-story lava stone dwellings have become quirky holiday homes and this persistent wind blown up from the Sahara its original Arabic name vintag Lian means daughter of the wind today it's so windy that they've shut the airport luckily I can seek shelter with a dear friend of mine Flavio Alba nazar is a world-famous architect who along with other stars like Armani and Madonna is drawn to this enigmatic Island despite its extreme weather [Music] I'm so pleased to be here nice to see you here thank you very much Melvin Turpin tellurian after all these years I've never been to your house as I fully expected Flavio's home is extraordinary the heart of which dates back to the 18th century it's evolved from the traditional one room layout into a sprawling 28 bedroom retreat but the real feature of this house is the purpose-built living room I love this room I because I didn't find an existing room large enough to have like 10 people on the wintertime so I would like to have a fireplace and a place where we stay all together so I have to built it it's the place where we usually stay one is like today oh it's not just windy it's that I mean it's I feel battered by the wind today is it always like this I know it's a windy island wow there's a beanie alibi xenu's work for them June that's okay what made you fall in love with this island so much what is it that it taxis wow this is unbelievable yeah he's not you know that the postcard see yeah it's very deep and blue yeah no sand so you can stay in 29 30 meters deeper and you see completely clear till the top and the island is beautiful inside it's not a beach Highlands yeah people it's not it's local people's very nice very charming is a small island during the middle of nowhere so it's pay attention to the guests and I love the people of the island yeah so you know everybody knows me here this ferocious wind has left me stranded here tonight so I'm getting an unscheduled taste of Flavio's legendary hospitality on the menu is a signature dish of Pantelleria home made by islander Emilia yes I would love you to certainly I'm starving thanks darling is this a traditional dish it's a traditional dish we call Brad the OLAP intensive ask are you sure yes the smell of the mint it's very strong Permenter it's lovely some of you think about the island you know what it's got a very harsh Beauty it takes a moment to get your eye oriented it's not a picture postcard kind of place you have to feel it don't you yeah Wow just thanks my darling lovely seeing you thanks for the invitation Pantelleria does leave a lasting impression and I can't believe it's taken me so long to come and experience it but tomorrow it's back to Sicily where it's Fiesta time I'm back in Sicily where the final moments of my journey take me to a place near the city of Trapani that's remained a secret to most tourists i'm at san vito lo capo which is the northwestern tip of Sicily traditional fishing village and it still stayed that absolutely lovely what a lovely place to end they call this the Caribbean of Italy because of its soft white sand in clear blue seas but in truth it feels more African than anything else [Music] there's any one road that comes in and out of this place maybe that's why it sounds spoiled son Vito isn't just aesthetically African the local dish enjoyed here may come as a surprise couscous is the traditional food hem and that is because the fisherman from here used to go and fish in Africa it's come here but it's ever spread much beyond son V Tania it's yet another thing that makes this place feel more like Africa initially but this is couscous like I've never had it before it's made with almonds parsley garlic onion cinnamon and flakes of the local fish it comes with its own broth which tastes absolutely delicious which I meant to pour over the couscous I'm longing to try it [Music] delicious mmm I've never had couscous never had cause to us initially like this before I've never really had couscous like this anywhere it's fantastic but the real charm of San Vito is its enduring reputation as a fishing village this troubled industry has weathered widespread problems over the years and San Vito hasn't escaped these but small fishing businesses have and do still thrive here partly because of a long-held passion but also because of the efforts of a local cooperative run by Antonia Napoli my family Empress ona kg so no ancora Pescatore quick and osakan and Conant auntie antipasti la pesca pure manila sister pure commercial mente completo possible estado possible a perky samito a fundamental mint my CD my Pescatore Vindicator ADT Onaga della Regina and Tec mancora GC Tremonti Padre FeO a porous endo / que por el acento Chile difficult Elora chair Cano the diamond a vendor sipper que una tradiciĆ³n a number you know for espera que llegar maybe sherrilyn con el maraa is very nice what is amazing is that in 18 19 20 year-olds are still trying to undergo their apprenticeships let's say they still have a real pulse versi they're determined not to give up even with all the difficulties that exist it's clear to me that for the men and women of this village there is no alternative to fishing it's a tradition that's ingrained in the locals Franco is one of the fishermen who felt the pull of the sea here we all fishermen here born in San Vito Franco's family moved to America when he was a child but he returned for a family occasion and her stayed ever since how many fishermen a vessel here oh I think maybe 100 that's a lot my relative is the old fisherman and I have the fisherman in my blood because when I was in America a little time thing about fishing and I went to fishing too in Monterey California no Canada then when I see some Vito the first thing over there I said to my father father papa my life is here and some of it I'm gonna stay here I love this place I really love this place this is really beautiful I I go around the world but for me it's one of the best place to live it's a really nice lovely today though the sea is alive with activity of a very different kind sea is stunning and I'm gonna finish with the Festa I'm lucky enough to be here during the town's annual celebration of its fishermen and its namesake San Vito I'm told it's quite an occasion [Music] an opportunity for the locals to relax and indulge in a few peculiar traditions [Music] [Applause] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] [Music] [Applause] I thought no one was going to get it I can't believe that guy got it in the end because it really didn't look to me like he was going to as the Sun begins to disappear behind the mountains the real heart of the festival begins as dozens of boats including Franco's take to the scene in a rather chaotic procession in honor of sand veto it could only be Italy I love how friendly everyone is I love the community spirit you saw it the sort of name when they would take the greasy coal and now look at this every boat is on the water quite a flotilla here as far as I'm concerned Italians know how to have fun better than any other nation on earth I might be wrong we'll have to prove it to me [Music] I've been told to expect the unexpected [Music] there's a young boy who represents son Vito who's holding the palm leaf and is with a bearded guy I don't know really what's going on but I know we're heading a saw we're heading a sword so cacophony of horns number of flares being met off to the adoring crowd this is always how I should arrive everywhere [Music] waiting for some feet artist ever saw [Music] but love it's me I love Italy every time I an event like this I think there's no up or Dedalus until they're relaxed face in the world traditions and they stick to earth and they nasty and to finish like this we could want anything it's been more of an adventure than I could ever have imagined it's absolutely stunning [Music] most weird thing I've ever seen and it's reinforced my belief that you can never visit one Italian island and think you've seen them all [Music] beautiful this is what one comes to its before everywhere I've been has felt unique it feels like the outer edge for known world here there be dragons I've been to the most beautiful breathtaking places this is why I call a bowling I want to party meeting so many fascinating and friendly people [Music] but the one enduring trait that I felt is their passion and strong independent spirit please what a charmer is the example to love us there's real community here and they're all incredibly proud of their Island it's a trip of a lifetime Italy has done me proud we still love this place and I still think it's got something that nowhere else I've ever been in the world can touch [Applause] you
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Channel: TRACKS
Views: 23,448
Rating: undefined out of 5
Keywords: TRACKS, tracks travel channel, tracks travel, salt mine, salt cathedral, catedral de sal, full documentary, alex polizzi, alex polizzi secret italy, italy, sicily, italy tourism, tourism, sights to see
Id: 0S5qgkJLWa8
Channel Id: undefined
Length: 43min 12sec (2592 seconds)
Published: Sat Apr 11 2020
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