Prusa MMU3 Part 1 - Assembly - Chris's Basement - 2024

today will be the start of a video series where we're going to talk about everything prusia multimaterial unit 3 hello everyone Chris here I've been doing a lot of content recently on multimaterial setups for your 3D printer and there's a lot of great options out there that you can choose from but the one that I have the most experience with is the multimaterial unit from peria now I've done a lot of videos in the past on the mmu 2 and we recently did one on the mmu 3 and its advantages over the mmu2 but PR has sent over an mm3 unit so we could do a complete walkthr I'll show you what you're going to get when you buy it we'll put one together as well as get it installed on the printer and any tips and tricks that I can give you as far as filament management or even down to slicing files now the mmu 3 is currently only available for the 2.5 and Mark III printers it will be available later for the markv but this video series is going to be focused on the latest version of the Mark III the Mark II s+ so let's Jump Right In see what you're going to get in the box when you buy an mmu 3 and then we'll move to putting everything together we'll go over everything step by step along the way it's going to be a lot of content so it will take multiple videos but hopefully at the end of this it's going to help everyone that might be interested in mmu 3 or upgrading from the older unit to be even more consistent and just have the newest version and all of its features so let's get into it if you're thinking about an mmu 3 as we start to open up the box here I will tell you it is a parts kit it's just bags of parts that you're going to have to assemble yourself and there's quite a bit to it but it also includes your filament management including spool holders as well as a buffer you'll see more of that in later videos so first off we have our 3D printing handbook if you've never flipped through one of these I suggest you do it there's a lot of great tips in here including some tuning and things like that for the filament that's really handy for the mmu we have some filament now it's important to mention there are two different versions there's one with the printed parts and then ones you print yourself this kit is the ones you print yourself we're going to talk about the printed Parts but this is a 400 G spool of black petg and there should be another one in here for a total of 800 G we get some Haro gold Bears those are always handy while building you're going to get a bag with your wires some PTFE tubes there's a few things in here that we're going to use during the build our couplers then you'll get a bag of some printed parts now these are the extruder parts for the Mark III this is separated out because the kits might be different as we go on to the markv but these are the Mark II Parts they are printed for you then we have a box with the Motors there are three motors for the mmu kits there's one for the pulley the selector and The Idler you'll see all that as we assemble it then we have a box with our spool holders and the electronics in it we'll take a look at that here in a moment after we get everything unboxed as well as the box full of Fasteners and then here in the bottom we have the buffer plates these are the plates that help separate the filament so they don't get tangled it keeps them organized while we print in our spool holder box the newest version they're injection molded it used to be a vacuum formed tray that had some rollers on it these are much better in my opinion I think they work better and they connect together it's much more organized so you'll get five of those kits we have our Electronics so the board that runs the mmu our PTFE tubes zip ties and a USB cable for flashing any firmware and then in the Fasteners safety sticker that's always important we have some printed Parts in here we're going to talk more about that but you do get the selector front end here it tells you which lane you're using which filment you're using and it has printed lettering on it so it's a nice add-on for your enemy3 they do include that as well as the Bowden connector that goes on the front of the selector anything that has a brass insert he to insert this been pressed in they include that in the kit again we'll go over it we have all the parts for our buffer pin collets bearings things like that you should have a bag with your pulley body parts as well as the electronic breakout board this is the power board that plugs in to the control board and then your idler selector Parts bag we've got the probe for detecting the filament some bearings we'll see all these parts as we assemble a whole bunch of screws that we're going to need and then that other spool of 400 G petg so there's a look at everything you're going to get in the kit that doesn't include the printed parts so there's a quick overview of everything in the kit when you don't get the parts included you can get the printed Parts it's an additional $30 but I'd rather print them myself and for this video I want to show you any tricks that I know while printing those parts so we're going to be focused on that now now the easiest way to do this is to print them on your Mark III so make sure you print them before you do any disassembly to your printer if you're ordering that kit but you can print them on other machines and I'll show you how to slice them so all your parts are over here on printables that you're going to need we'll go over it but it does give you some suggestions a point4 nozzle which is the stock nozzle on most machines how much filament it's going to take what material to use and the layer height now the easiest way to print all of your parts would be to use the G-Code that they provide for the mark I if you have a Mark III you can just set your printer up download these and it's going to give you a tray of Parts just print all of these out the only thing that would be different are these two here this one is for the injection molded spool holders like I showed you this one's for the vacuum tray so you don't need both in this case we're just printing these out here also you might actually print out some parts if you print these g-codes that you might not use but you'll have spares and those would be the ones that have inserts things like that now we're going to print out our own parts and here's all the files that you're going to need we'll go over these as I load them into the slicer but if you have a bigger machine it does go a lot faster if you want to print these on a bigger plate you can print more parts so I'm going to print all of mine on my Excel I'm going to swap over to a point4 nozle I'm going to use petg but for my settings I'm just going to use the0 2 structur Ru setting that's the quality setting if you're using a Mark III pement petg and then again I will flop this over to a point four nozzle so that I can print these out I'm going to do 20% infill and I'm going to use grid infill grid now I'm just going to start pulling in Parts you'll get a zip file that has the model Parts as well as the G-Code files we want to go through the model parts and we'll just go through through each folder for the buffer I'm just going to grab all these and we'll pull them in and we'll talk about them so really the only thing you need to know is how many of each of these you need all of that's over on the printables page but we can go over it really quick so most of these you just need one these are different parts of the buffer the plate holder you will need five so we can just increase that to five the cassette wheel you're going to need five of those as well and then the cassette segment this is the inside and outside building the cassette you actually need 10 of those it takes three complete plates to print all the parts on the Excel so there's a look at everything on the buffer I'll show you all the end results here in a moment we'll just can these next one down if you look at everything that's on the extruder they've already printed all these parts for you and included them in the kit but if you were happen to need to print these here's what they look like and remember some of these parts have that brass insert like the top part here but these are the extruder parts for the mark iiii the only Parts that'll be changing on the printer the next one down is the mm3 unit itself you can see here these are all the parts that take the longest I actually like to print out two of these PTFE Clips so we'll just increase that to two just in case I want to get crazy with the management but we'll go over what all these parts are really the only one you don't need is this one right here because it has a brass insert they've included it and I also forgot about this one this is the one with the numbers on it that they've already printed out for you it's been Deskjet printed so you have color numbers so we don't have to worry about that one or that one just get rid of them with the delete key and we're going to need two brackets here these are the brackets that hold it on the top of the printer so we should be good there and then our last section is for the spool holder remember we have the injection molded one so inj and these are just some guide parts to help guide the filament they hold the PTFE tube so you'll need five of those one for each spool of filament and that's all the parts and here's a look at all the finished plates that I arranged to be able to do all the parts in three plates on the Excel just to give you an idea of what'll the parts look like laid out so here's my first plate that has most of the body parts on it the second plate I did all five wheels and then five of the outsides for the cassettes and then one last plate here for the other five of the cassettes and that's all the parts now we print and we have a whole lot of parts to print so of course I had to do a time lapse of that we're going to check that out now and it would be a good time to go ahead and enjoy some of our gold bears [Music] so I know there's a lot of info here a lot of it might seem redundant but I'm trying to give you a well-rounded look of what you're going to get yourself into if you'd like to build one of these what it might take to print all the parts out just everything that's involved here so now we're just going to jump into the build guide we're going to assemble it and as we go along I'll try to give you any tips that I might have to make your mm3 build more successful so we're going to start here by assembling The Idler Barrel this is what selects the filament it's got bearings on it we're going to put all that together remember prusia has a great guide on how to assemble one of these follow the guide first and then come back here if you have any questions or you get stuck maybe it'll help after you've watched me assemble it if you if you're confused on any of the parts but guide first for sure there's a lot of great tips in there also they are assuming that you have the tools from your Mark III those are the same tools that you will need to build your mm3 I'm going to use my own tools but hopefully you save the tools from that kit or you have your own so we're going to go to The Idler selector mmu bag first we've got a bag with bearings and pins in it and you have to do these in a certain order because you won't be able to get to certain pins after you put certain bearings in so we want to start with the center one here and then we'll have one of our pins these are 9x5 by 15 pins or shafts if you'd like to call them that but from this side we'll slide it in and then you can use your 2.5 mm allen wrench hex key to push it in with and just make sure it's seated enough inside that plastic part so that it doesn't obstruct this hole here because another bearing will have to go in there and then we can go ahead and put in the next one we have another shaft and then the outer one then we can flip it over we'll do the inside one here and then the outside one after that we will have one of these same bearings will go in the end and we'll just make sure that's nice and flush and kind of press it against the table it should go in there relatively easily now we can put the grub screws these are inside your Fastener bag inside the coupler this is what holds the selector Barrel onto the motor end but we can go ahead and put those in Loosely it's a 2mm wrench we've got one on both sides I just put them in enough so they're not quite into the center of the coupler because we do have to put this on the motor shaft we've got this one and then one on the opposite side then we'll take four of our m3x 10 mm screws and we'll attach our coupler onto our idler but it does have to go a certain way so there's a flat section to your idler Barrel here you want the grub screw pointing at this last pin this bearing right here you want one of those grubs pointing at it so it would align just like this and then those M3 x10s will screw into the plastic part I like to install them all just make sure they're all lined up before I snug them down we'll go ahead and complete that just remember this is a plastic part don't get carried away with tightening these up the coupler is on now's a great time to make sure all your screws are tight you know where the grub screws are they're in the right location and all of your bearings are turning freely we're in good shape now we can move to The Idler body parts this is actually where the barrel goes into and we'll need our idler motor this is the one with the standard shaft on it the other do have longer shafts or screws on them and you noticed in that idler selector bag there was some of these little rubber buttons these actually help more than you think but they install right here in this hole on the door you kind of have to spin them a little bit to get them to seat but this is so The Idler will strike that button and it really improves the accuracy of centralus homing for that driver to be able to contact this button rather than hitting a hard surface this is actually a big improvement over the other model it doesn't seem like much but it really does work so don't forget that and then our idler will seat in just like this it can just set in there but we want to make sure on this side there is as little Gap as possible you can see all these compartments here that's where it allows those bearings to roll from one side of the other but the Gap inside here needs to be very small hopefully no Gap at all basically but when that's in there you can use one of your leftover pins it goes in from the side and it'll slide into the idler itself and that's what the idler will rotate on and to keep that pen from backing out you can use one of your M3 by10 in this hole here just to block its path then we'll install some Square nuts one on the motor end right here this holds the electronics cover on be careful they can get away from you but one on this side and then one over here on this side as well then we can install our motor into our coupler it is important where the wire runs because we're going to route that later but we'll let the wire face up and we want the flat spot of the motor facing up as well you can see that there and then we just need to make sure that the flat part of the shaft is aligned with one of the grub screws remember this is self homing it will know where home is every time it starts up but it just has to be aligned with one of them so we'll slide it in on this side since this is the one we can see if your grub screws are positioned correctly it should slide in Fairly easily it'll fit into that printed part again remember we need our idler to be as far this way as it can be we want to make sure that idler can turn freely and it can it has to get all the way over to this position to be able to home so we're good there and then to put the motor on we've got more M3 by10 we've got two up here one there and one over here and then we've got two on the back side they go to an inside here sometimes those can be kind of tricky but use your wrench to kind of guide them in but one will slide down here before you put these last two in make sure that your Square nut is still in there but one there and then one over here and the motor's on and in place once you have all the screws in then you can go back and do the final tighten you just want to make sure they're a little loose when you put them on so that everything lines up correctly and don't forget about the grub screws we should already have it lined up with the shaft you can see that one there is lined up with the shaft that'll just make sure that it's on tight but we want to push it over to this side again we don't want any Gap and then we can tighten up one of the grub screws I like to start with the one that's on the flat part of the motor shaft and then we can spin it and tighten up the other one and now our idler assembly is complete we can move on so The Idler is complete we'll go ahead and move on to the selector this is the part where from the back of the mmu it runs through it's pulled in and then it issues it through this selector so that you have a sensor here to tell if the filament has ran out also it works as a cutter so it can put a new tip on the filament if it's not loading correctly so a pretty crucial piece so for this we'll need our magnet and then one of the ball bearings it comes with now the first thing you want to do is make sure that the ball bearing you're using is magnetic so this one is not all of them are so double triple check that especially if you're using parts from another kit they're not all Ferris material so that magnet has to grab onto this ball to hold some tension so that the sensory can work more efficiently so the magnet goes in the slot right here on the side we'll just push that in and then you can just go ahead and drop the ball in so it keeps that magnet in place you should be able to see that ball in the window so filament comes from the back that ball rides on the filament when it's present so it's got it close to the sensor up here on top when the filament isn't present the magnet draws the ball down ensuring that it's far enough away from the sensor so it's not triggered any longer that's just how that works then we'll grab our selector motor we'll pull off the nut cuz we can install it on the selector we'll use one of our longer screws this is an M3 by3 and we'll install a hex nut right underneath that magnet so I just put it on the longer screw and that'll help me press it in here in the body just like that you can back this out then on the cutter side there's a slot here for another Square nut we'll slide that in and then with those two installed we can go ahead and put on our motor nut or trapezoidal nut so make sure that magnet is flush and it'll go on just like this and that'll take M3 by 10 mm screws just two of them is more than enough one there and one there and then from there we'll install our brass bushings these actually go on smooth rods so the selector can go from side to side I like to install them from this side so one here and one on this side but if you have to from this direction you can use the tblop or something to help press them in sometimes it's just a little challenging to get them in that printed part might take a little convincing but you should be able to get both of those flush then we'll spin it and we need to put two square nuts in these slots here so that'll hold the front cover on on one here and one here can use your 2mm wrench I think that one's the easiest one to seat these if you need to make sure they're seated from the front there you can see them and then we can put our coupler piece on this is one of the printed parts that came with the kit because it has that brass insert that heated insert it should be in the same bag as that front display with the numbers on it that one there set that aside but this is the part we're looking for and it does only go on one way you want the flat side on the same side as the nut you can tell because that brass insert fits over this Center hole where the filament path is then you can put that on to M3 by10 then we can move on to installing our fer probe the filament sensor looks a whole lot like a bed probe but in this case we're just using it to detect filament with that ball but it attaches here on top we'll need another Square nut to slide in right here then you can slide in your fenda and you can see it in that window rough adjustment you actually want it level the sensor level with that window right about there but we're going to adjust it after everything gets assembled so just set it in there for now and then you can use your M3 by10 to Snug it up just so it doesn't fall out so we'll put it right there and we'll adjust that later and then we can install our blades this part be very careful those blades are very sharp but they go back here and there's a square nut here on top let's go and put that in your blades are in these little plastic packs so they don't get away from you and then there's a cover that holds the blades on so the blades will set on here in a V formation one there and then one on the other side make sure they're not overlapping and then you can put that cover on it has a part up here on top that kind of gives you an idea of how far it goes down the depth it'll just kind of set on top of that part just like that and then you can put another M3 by10 through the cover to hold the blades down and you want this one pretty tight you don't want those blades moving around when it tries to cut that filament if it should have to but again they are printed Parts don't get too carried away it's going to be raised up just a bit you can see there's Gap because it's trying to smash down on those blades that's not a big deal but again just make sure they're not overlapping and you should be okay the selector is done now we'll start working on the body first up we'll start loading the bearings we have one over here on this side for the door the top is going to hinge on this and then we have one on the other side side for that door you should just press in no problem at all make sure they're flush and then we have one here for the drive gears there's a shaft that holds all the drive gears for the different filaments it spins on this one down inside here have to angle it a bit but it'll fit right in and then there's a section that actually goes on the pulley body front this is where all the filament passes through the selector goes up and down this to select the different filaments we need four square nuts right in here for that one there one there there and there can make sure those are all seated and then there's some ptf2 pieces that go in these holes to help guide it there should be a bag with pulley body pieces in it that's where they are and on those tubes one side side is going to have a champer the other side's going to be flat you want that champer facing out so you put them in just like this and just give it a push and make sure they're seated all the way but make sure that champer is out on all five of these These are actually kind of a clear tube it makes it a lot easier to tell what side that champer is on all of those are seated then your printed part will slide over that they should go right on those tubes and then it's going to have four M3 by10 here to fasten it and we'll snug all those up there we go then we can flip around to the back we have a holder here that holds the incoming filament tubes it looks like this and there's some collets that go on here here to clip that filament on with so it has an arrow on one side the collet will go on the other side so the arrow is facing this way CET goes on this side they should just press into that part very easily but we'll put all five of those on just like that and then it installs on the body so on the body side again we're going to take one of our m3x 30s the longer screw screw in a couple of hex nuts just put it on the screw a thread or two and then you can flip it over and we'll install them inside the body just give it a little press it should seat relatively easily and then we'll do one on the other side and that's what we'll hold our PTFE holder on that Arrow should face towards the front of the body so it goes on just like that and two M3 by10 so we're good from The Backs side now we can start working on the pulley motor the pulley motor should have the longer shaft it's got a flat section to install all those gears that actually pull the filament but we're going to load them on like this with the gear teeth that side facing the motor so we'll just load them on one at a time you might have to back that set screw out a bit if it's not fitting correctly but we'll just slide all five on and then we can line them up when we get it in the body I like to Snug that set screw up just a little bit so it keeps it on the flat side of the shaft see if you screw it down just a little bit it'll keep it from spinning because you always want that set screw on the flat portion all five of those are on and then we'll jump back to the body we have to install a square nut before we put the motor on it's just easier to step through these installs one square note at a time because if you put them all in you'll probably lose them as you're turning the parts around we'll just make sure that's seated because the motor is going to cover that up you want the wire on the motor to go out the back CU that's how it's going to route to the board we'll just slide it in and the end of that is going to go into that bearing that we installed so we'll slide it in like this we'll seat the shaft into that bearing right here and then you can push the motor onto the part and then start to spread these gears out a bit and a pro tip while you're doing this put the flat spot on the shaft facing up because that will put all the grub screws facing up since they're sticking out a little bit still it's not going to have enough clearance if you get these in sideways so try to put it in just like this and that will give you a little bit more clearance for moving those gears around that'll enable you to slide them down to the spots that they need to go in you can just kind of get them ballpark for now we'll line them up so that's where they should be roughly and then we can go ahead and fasten the motor so on this side there's an M3 by10 that goes here there's a couple more so I just get these started and then do the rest so it'll line the motor up there's one and then there's a couple more on the back side one in each of these slots then one over down that side check to make sure that square nut that you put in there is still in there before you put all these in now that you have them all lined up you can go ahead and snug those up so the motor's on now we can line up all these gears the best way to do it is with a piece of filament grab something that's nice and straight preferably easy to see depending on what color your filament is that you printed your mm3 out of we'll just grab this red here but we'll just slide it in through the channel and that's going to tell us where that gear needs to be lined up it needs to be exactly in the center of that channel and then we'll use our 1.5 mm wrench here to make sure it's in the center of that filament and we'll snug that up and then move on to the next one if the filaments bent or really vent it can skew your results make sure it's as straight as it can be having these centered as much as possible on that filament it's one of the best tips that I can give you to make sure your mmu unit is consistent so double triple check this or if you're having issues come back to this and check it again and there we go all five are nice and straight and snug now we can start working on the selector motor this the one with the four start scre screw but again we've got some Square nuts to put on before we Mount that motor so on this side where the motor will Mount we'll put a square nut here and here and then we'll make sure our selector is somewhat in place down here on the other side because our motor is going to go in but it's going to thread inside that screw on the side of the selector or nut on the side of the selector and we'll install our smooth rods the selector actually moves on these as the motor moves it so one there in top they'll be flush with the side of the printed part here with the body and then one here on the bottom again make sure it's flush make sure that selector can move freely before we put that motor on which it can and then your motor wires will be facing up for routing purposes you can just set it in there and start threading in that screw and kind of force it all the way to the side watch your wires but force it all the way to the side there and you can thread it on and that'll bring it into the body just like that make sure your motor is flush seated and then you can put M3 by10 and these three holes to fasten the motor again make sure all three of those are seated before you snug them up with your kit you should get the ball ended style wrenches they're pretty much a necessity for this build because some of them you have to kind of get at an angle but hopefully you still have those from your printer build or kit and our selector motor is on so just to make sure that your selector moves freely and as it should I suggest you push it all the way down here and then just back out these trap pidal nut screws on the side of the selector just loosen them up just a bit you don't want to back them out cuz they could be really hard to get back in but with those loose just pull the selector down all the way so it turns that Rod just take it all the way to one side and then back to the other so if there's any movement that needs to be done if that nut needs to move around a bit it can but this is going to ensure that there's no problems going forward and then you can just go ahead and snug up both those screws again again ball ended wrenches it's going to about be about the only way you can get in there so just an added step to help keep things consistent and then when you have that nut tightened up again make sure you can still move it successfully so we're good there and we're starting to get everything together here you can go ahead and place your door section that we built so it just goes down over the top and then there's some of these extra shafts like we used before on the barrel one goes in this side here kind of hard to see it goes right in there and it pushes into that bearing that we installed in the body can use your wrench again to seat it and then one on the other side for the other hinge over here and those are kept in place to keep that PIN from sliding out with some M3 by10 just in the hole above it just threads into the plastic you put those in you'll have one of those on each side make sure you can successfully lift the door there's no hanging and then with that door open we've got some more Square nuts we have one right here and that's to put the tensioner screw for the door in and the other one should have already been seated before we installed the motor but it's on that side then you can you can go ahead and close it don't tilt it or you're going to lose that square nut just go ahead and close it for now and then we have some m3x 30s two of those and there should be two extruder style screws to put tension on that door so two of these and they just go on those M3 x30 one in this side and you can just put those on flush with the top of the door for now we'll go through adjusting those later as well but that'll keep the door in place so we're good there now we can move to our control board cover that's this part right here it has spots here on the back for M3 hex nuts we'll just kind of press them in it's very shallow you should be able to do that with your fingernails you could pull them through with a screw if you really wanted to but they should just slide right in like so and then our our control board goes in here you can flip it over there's actually buttons on the control board that slide in there and it'll slide on just like this and then there should be some m3x sixes a little shorter screw to attach that and there'll be three of them same spots we put those nuts in on the other side and we'll fasten those and while we're here we can go ahead and fasten our PD keyboard that should be in a little bubble wrapper but it's another PCB this is what solves some of the power issues that this module can have it also converts it over to the new style cable for the new printers but this is what it looks like and it just slides down in these two ports right here this is power and connection for the printer but again it fixes any issues we might have had in the past fast and then in your kit you'll have a cable that's Consolidated to one plug for all your data and your power together much easier to use and it'll just clip right in here and you can put your sleeving on just to keep everything nice and neat once your sleeve is on it is actually much easier to plug in all of the motors and everything before you put the board on because they're kind of down underneath so we'll plug all those in there should only four Connections three motors One sensor the fenda will go right here next to that is the pulley motor this one here next to that is the selector motor here up front and then finally that idler motor on the other side once it's all plugged in it makes it much easier just to flip it up here on top and then you can use two M3 by1 18s a little longer screw to hold it on one on each side here and the control board's all set so the next thing we need to be worried about is Cable Management it is pretty important you want to make sure none of the wires are in the way of the filament path the selector can wear this wire out so you want to make sure it's situated a certain way but I think that's a great stopping point for this video so we got a lot done in this video but there's definitely more to do we're almost complete with the mm 3 assembly but we do have to move on to installing the buffer and putting all the parts on the printer that make it compatible with the mm3 but my intention for this series is to give you an idea of what you're going to get yourself into if you buy one of these kits as well as all the parts that you will have to print to put this whole thing together and it will give you some tips on making your mmu 3 as consistent as possible so you don't have any of those pesky interventions when you're trying to create awesome 3D prints so that will be it for today more videos to come and I'll see you really soon on the next one

Channel: Chris Riley

Views: 13,531

Keywords: 3D, printer, Printing, 3D Printing, 3D Printer, ChrisBasement, ChrissBasement, Chris'sBasement, Chris Basement, Chriss Basement, Chris's Basement, ChrisRiley, Chris Riley, benchy, 3dbenchy, 3d, Prusa upgrade, MK3S+ to MMU3, MMU3, Multi Material

Id: 6NtnOFbVnCI

Length: 40min 9sec (2409 seconds)

Published: Wed Feb 28 2024