Polynesia, a word that resonates like a sweet and mysterious invitation. Since the first explorers, these small islands located on the immense Pacific Ocean have fascinated us with their beauty and awakened in us the myth of an earthly paradise. But behind the carefully maintained clichés of the advertising leaflets hides a world, a people, stories, a culture, characters and flavors that could make people really appreciate Polynesia, but for real reasons. From Tahiti to the Tuamotu with a stopover in the Marquesas we embark for the end of the world in the middle of the Pacific for a journey and particularly colorful encounters. The name of Tahiti alone has lit up eyes for two centuries. So much so that the largest island in the Society archipelago has become synonymous with Polynesia. However, the visitor expecting a postcard setting risks being disappointed. The charm of Tahiti lies elsewhere, heading deeper into the uninhabited island. Secret valleys surrounded by impressive volcanic peaks which give it the appearance of a grandiose fortress. Papeete, the capital, remains an almost obligatory stopover. Over the last 30 years, the city has experienced spectacular expansion to the point of giving itself the appearance of a modern metropolis with inevitably the inconveniences that go with it. Once past the hustle and bustle and traffic jams, however, you can taste its charm and vitality. Trucks that provide public transportation are a pleasant way to mingle with ordinary life. The market, located in a hall, is in the heart of the city and is an excellent starting point to begin exploring. On the ground floor we find fresh produce and in particular the extraordinary diversity of fish brought in by fishermen at night. The fruit and vegetable stalls offer the full variety of tropical species: pineapples, watermelons, maupiti, papayas, rambutans and bananas. The brightly colored flowers decorate and perfume the atmosphere of the market. Upstairs, you can buy traditional Tahitian products, clothing and crafts. There are pareos, basketwork, flowers and hats. The work of shells and mother-of-pearl produces the famous necklaces which are made on site. Papeete, like the whole of Polynesia, also lives to the rhythm of these religious ceremonies which constitute an important aspect of social life. The Protestant temple stands here on the site where the first church was built which marks the actual birth of the town in 1818. The Sunday service is worth the detour when the mamas, all dressed in white, wear magnificent hats. In the Town Hall lounges, the mamas take part in the competition for the most beautiful Tifaifai. These are large fabrics with stylized floral designs which are mainly used as tablecloths, bedspreads or curtains. This technique was inspired by the wives of English missionaries. But today this craft is directly threatened by industrial products. But some Tahitian women remain attached to this know-how and wish to perpetuate it for a long time to come. These meetings are an opportunity to get out of their workshops and to be able to enthusiastically transmit their passion. So here there is tiféfé. It can be used as a bed cover, but tiféfé is mainly used as a gift: as a gift to personalities, to people who are getting married. It’s truly a know-how of the mamas of Polynesia. Leaving the suburbs of Papeete, walking along the seaside. The fishermen have just returned their boats full of very fresh fish. As soon as they disembark, everyone gets to work making garlands of auré which will be eaten raw. Venus Point is an important center of nautical activity. It is the gathering place of several canoe racing clubs. Today this activity is practiced as a sport, but the canoe is an essential element of Polynesian identity. Legends tell of migrations on large canoes. There are no remains of the boats used to make these fascinating journeys. Dance is also an important element of Polynesian culture and identity. Long confined to tourist entertainment and associated with the voluptuous image of vahiné, Polynesian dance deserves to be rid of the clichés that stick to it. It is to Polynesia what the beguine is to the West Indies: a cultural and popular heritage, a privileged mode of expression, shared by all Polynesians. Each show requires months of rehearsal and years of practice. A choreography has legendary meaning. In this country of oral tradition, dance is not just aesthetic. It also helps preserve the memory of a people. In recent years, we have witnessed a real revival. It is an opportunity for younger generations to reinvest in their culture and reconnect with their roots. To enjoy the calm at the water's edge, head to the north of the island. The landscape takes on a wild connotation with the coast beaten by the swell. We come across a few surfers there who appreciate this very well-known spot. And curiously, the strong swell makes a geyser emerge from the rocks through the blower hole. Fleeing the tumult of Papeete, the peninsula to the north of the island is a journey into the Tahiti of yesteryear that the inhabitants wish to preserve from uncontrolled urban planning. Make way for sovereign nature, peaceful hamlets and superb landscapes. The heights of the plateau hold a strange surprise. The landscape here takes on the air of the French countryside with green meadows and cows. Possible meeting in the middle of the Pacific, in case of homesickness. The others can continue on their way to Teahupoo. You have arrived at the end of the world, the road stops and no one here imagines that it could one day be extended to preserve this little corner of paradise. Teahupoo is famous for its surfing site, there is an impressive wave here where the world's best specialists in the discipline come to rub shoulders. But Teahupoo lives mainly to the rhythm of the comings and goings of fishermen. Even if the schools of bonito are becoming rarer victims of overly intensive fishing, local fishermen try to continue their activity and bring back the fish which is mainly consumed raw. In Paea there is a marae, a ceremonial site of the ancient Polynesian religion. Abandoned following the wave of conversion to Christianity, they were subsequently restored and Tikis were placed there again: this legendary being, half man, half god at the origin of humanity. End of the day. The canoe crews set off one last time towards the setting sun. You can stay like this and simply look at the scenes before your eyes and end up with the always grandiose spectacle that precedes dusk. A beach comes alive to the rhythm of percussions, The sun disappears behind Moorea the island opposite Tahiti where we will go tomorrow. Moorea is the charming island of Polynesia. Its magnificent jagged profile forms a dazzling backdrop. Barely 20 km separates it from Tahiti, its sister island. Yet everything sets it apart from its predecessor. Its charm comes from a clever alchemy between mountains and volcanic peaks with pronounced relief, a turquoise lagoon, lush and flowery vegetation, a preserved environment and a relaxing atmosphere. The magnificent mountains of Moorea dominate the coastline in a spectacular and abrupt manner. Moorea is famous for these two large bays which form deep indentations in the coastline dominated by Mount Rotui. At the bottom of the bay, a road goes inland to follow the valley bordered by pineapple fields, which stretch over the heights and red earth of the PaoPao valley. With the arrival of the first Europeans and Christianity, ancestral Polynesian culture almost disappeared. It is mainly through archaeological sites that we discover the specificity of this civilization and in particular the Maraes. This is a place of worship. Built outdoors, they are intended for the celebration of religious and social life. Opposite Tahiti, the lagoon offers an exceptional setting where you can enjoy this relaxed beachside atmosphere. In the past, copra and vanilla were the dominant crops on the island. Today the pineapple plantations have taken over. But in Patae, Fahaira wishes again feel the vanilla pods perfume your island. After Patae, there are bays still preserved from construction. They constitute excellent observatories of the abundant marine life. A little further away is Haapiti, the largest village on the west coast. A curiosity of this village is the church of the Holy Family erected on the mountain side. Built in coral and limestone by stonemasons from Easter Island. Suddenly a downpour refreshes the atmosphere and recomposes the landscape with different colors. During a walk, it is quite easy to come across fields of Tiare. These small shrubs give flowers which are the emblem of Tahiti. With these, we make Monoï, a treatment for the skin and hair by letting Tiaré flowers macerate in Copra oil. Temae Beach is a meeting place for traditional sports enthusiasts. They participate in the qualifying rounds for the competitions which will take place during the island's major festivals in July. Among the different events, the javelin throw is undoubtedly the most spectacular and the most difficult. It involves planting a javelin in a coconut located on a pole several meters from the ground. The strength tests are also very popular and attract a lot of people. The stone lifting sees the Polynesian colossi confront each other who must lift an entirely smooth stone that can weigh 100 kilos and stabilize it on their shoulders. An almost ordinary day under the Polynesian sun which illuminates the immense sky in its last rays every evening. Leaving the Society Archipelago, we go to Huahine which is part of the Leeward Islands archipelago. Huahine does not have the haughty air of Moorea or Bora Bora. Less spectacular than its sisters, carefully avoiding the traps of media coverage, the discreet Huahine stands somewhat apart. She cultivates a careful particularism. Tourism has been established there without fanfare, on a modest scale. All you have to do is tour the island to let yourself be won over by this suave nonchalance which recharges the body and mind. The island's rivers are home to a variety of blue-eyed eels. Polynesians consider this animal sacred. Which means they are generously fed by the locals. There are numerous fish parks in the bays of the island. This centuries-old technique is still used today. Arranged in a V shape to trap fish and built with blocks of coral, they are easily spotted thanks to the small huts where the fishermen sit. The archaeological remains recall the historical importance of the island in Polynesia. Fare is the largest village on the island. The businesses allow people on the island to meet to exchange the latest news. As in all of Polynesia, the inhabitants of Huahine are very attached to both their way of life and their territory. They maintain a sacred bond with their land. Coming from a royal lineage, Queen Mama Peni shares with us this very special bond where the island is considered a living being. We see here the head, the breasts, the stomach. In fact, she was lying down. In pre-European times, Maeva was the seat of royal power on the island. The great chiefs lived on the edge of the lagoon, on this coastal strip, and worshiped on their ceremonial sites. These maraes are still visible along the shore and on the slopes of Matairea hill. Huahine offers wild coastlines with kilometers of deserted beaches. Sheltered by vegetation, the Manunu marae is a massive construction once dedicated to Tané, the god of war. Nearby, fish parks are still in use. In appearance the island forms only one whole, but is in fact made up of two entities. These two twins, set in the same lagoon, are only separated by an isthmus of only a few dozen meters spanned by a bridge and which one could almost cross on foot at low tide. If Huahine only offers modest relief compared to other islands in the archipelago, its contours, pleasantly scalloped, give it an undeniable grace. The Polynesian archipelagos offer a splendid spectacle of great diversity. The image too often conveyed of the golden beach coconut paradise does not reflect one of the greatest riches of its islands. It lies quite simply in its inhabitants who have, over the centuries, managed to preserve a way of life largely inspired by an extraordinary environment. Many Polynesians have become aware of the richness and originality of their culture. During such a distant journey, meeting them is a rich experience, a window open to a world, a people, its customs and its legends in a good mood. Last walk to Huahine Iti where the beaches are the most beautiful and the lagoon the widest. Bora Bora is certainly the most famous Polynesian island. Few people have visited it, and yet its name is familiar to millions of Westerners for whom it is an annex of paradise. For many years, it has boasted the coveted status of the pearl of the Pacific among tour operators around the world. But here again clichés die hard and Bora-Bora cannot be reduced to a tourist brochure. Some villages like Anau escape tourist pressure. We see ordinary scenes of Polynesian life. Schools remain an important element in the transmission of identity. Apart from classical disciplines, children are introduced to traditional activities such as music and dance which allow them to explore the myths and legends of the origin of their people. But if there is an authentic Bora Bora, the image of the island is closely associated with its enchanting setting. The postcard, preferably an aerial view, embodies the tropical dream. And undoubtedly Bora-Bora looks great, its volcanic peaks, its lush vegetation, its immense turquoise lagoon and its string of motu lined with white sand, capping the coral reef, undoubtedly justify this worldwide notoriety. The lagoon of Bora Bora is the largest of the Leeward Islands, the manta rays are still its queens. But the island is struggling to resist hotel pressure which could endanger the fragile balance of this exceptional environment. Dominating this unique landscape, Alain Despert has a house entirely open to the lagoon. Alain is a painter and he decided to set up his easel here to compose an original expression of Polynesia carried by this grandiose setting at the origin of his inspiration. The lagoon is an exceptional observatory of marine life; whales are regularly encountered offshore. For thrill-seekers, a wake-board outing allows you to experience the force of the elements a little more closely. Going a little off the tourist trails, the night comes alive with the rhythm of percussion, singing and dancing. The Anau troupe is actively preparing for the July festivals. The boat remains the preferred means of traveling on the lagoon. At every moment of the day, the sky, water, vegetation and light constantly compose a striking spectacle with changing atmospheres and each time unique. A stone's throw from Bora Bora, the island of Raiatea has remained very natural. Apart from tourism, pearls represent the territory's second source of income. Grafted oysters are placed in strings in the lagoon. Layer after layer the mother-of-pearl thickens around a perfectly spherical 6mm ball, at an annual rate of 1mm. Eighteen months later, a first harvest is carried out. Installed on stilts in the middle of the lagoon, the pearl farms include different facilities and breeding and maintenance platforms. Pearl farming requires a highly specialized workforce. The harvest is always a surprise. For Moana Constant, as in other farms, more than half of the grafted oysters yield nothing and only 5% will produce a perfect pearl. The color spectrum is wide, ranging from pearly white to black, including eggplant and champagne. Iridescent reflections and luster also come into play when defining the quality of a pearl. So here I am starting to sort beads. And then I sort them by color, no matter the size. And then I will pierce them in order to create something baroque, which is very fashionable at the moment. The second largest island in the Society archipelago, Raiatea cultivates its difference. Less touristy than its neighbors, it is an almost essential stopover for anyone interested in traditional civilization. The island is nicknamed Raiatea the Sacred and plays a crucial symbolic role in mythology. It was in fact the religious center of all Polynesia. The main chain topped by Mount Tepatuarahi stands precisely in the center of the island. Raiatea does not have any easily accessible beaches, except in some very isolated places in the south of the island. For relaxation and swimming, it is better to be driven on a motu. Raiatea has remained somewhat away from the major tourist flows and there are no large luxury hotels there. The center of the island has remained very agricultural. The tropical and humid climate allows many species of fruits to grow, including peppers. The advantages of this island are multiple. Its lagoon easily compares with the other islands and is best appreciated during a canoe tour of the island. Raiatea shares the same lagoon with Tahaa, its sister island accessible only by boat. Tahaa is aptly nicknamed the vanilla island. At the beginning of the century, vanilla cultivation was flourishing on the archipelago and production amounted to 200 tonnes. Today it does not exceed 25 tonnes. Under the shade, we patiently cultivate one of the most sought-after vanillas. Cultivation is delicate because it is particularly technical, its fertilization is carried out by hand. Once harvested, the pods are taken to preparers like Mamie Chan who has always lived here among the plantations. That's fresh, it's from this morning. After four days, they automatically turn brown: it is the vanilla that reaches maturity. We expose them to the sun, and after a few days we sort them. There are those that are wrinkled, those that are very round, thick, those we have to put back in the sun. The lagoon is dotted with islets on the edge of the coral reef, bordered on the horizon by pearl farms. Raiatea is the cultural, religious and historical center of the Society Islands. Legends describe it as the starting point of the great navigators who swarmed the Pacific. The first king of Raiatea would have been Hiro, god of thieves and sailors who with his companions would have built the large canoes which made the crossing to Rarotonga and New Zealand. The island later became the seat of the cult of the god Oro. The great Marae Taputaputea, the most important in Polynesia, is dedicated to him. Oro was the god of war who dominated Polynesian beliefs during the 18th century. The Marae extends over a vast area and dates from the 17th century. Despite its relatively short history, it played a crucial role. Another important activity is copra. The importance of the palm grove allows here, as throughout Polynesia, to harvest coconuts, the edible part of which is used to make oil, widely used in the cosmetic industry. Raiatea and Tahaa are two pretty jewels sometimes forgotten by those who succumb a little easily to the Bora-Bora myth. These islands have managed to preserve their village atmosphere, made of charm, harmony and simplicity. They retain a sweet scent of serenity, a timeless nonchalance like the smiles of the people who greet you kindly. Te Henua Enana, land of men, is how the Marquesans designate their archipelago. The term “Marquises” is only the name given by the first European explorers. This archipelago is the northernmost of French Polynesia; of the islands that make it up, only 6 are inhabited. Blocks of lava emerging in the middle of the Pacific, these high islands seem to permanently challenge the vastness of the ocean. Partially submerged craters form vast amphitheaters where the rare localities. Taiohae is the only real town in the Marquesas, wrapped around a superb bay. It is the economic and administrative capital of the archipelago. At the beginning of the 19th century in Nuku Hiva, Taiohae Bay welcomed sandal boats and whalers who came to relax. Herman Melville, the author of Moby Dyck, hired aboard a whaling ship, took advantage of this stopover to make himself beautiful. Lands of legend, the Marquesas are full of archaeological remains, most of which have not been inventoried by specialists. True open-air museums, the valleys where the spirits of the dead roam are treasures of memory. Rainfall is abundant in the Marquise and many spectacular waterfalls cascade down the plateaus through the basalt. The sudden changes in light only reinforce the impression of power and mystery emanating from the mountains and valleys. In the Marquesas we are struck by these spaces devoid of human presence. The population of the archipelago is 8000 people. But before colonization, this number is estimated at 18,000, dropping to 2,000 in 1926. The crews of the whaling ships, mostly adventurers of all stripes, brought alcohol, firearms, syphilis and other epidemics in their luggage. The colonial administration and the missionaries paid little attention to the ancestral values of the Marquesan people. Little by little the archipelago was repopulated and the inhabitants reinvested their values, but the very small population compared to the available space leaves plenty of room for this fascinating and exuberant nature. The island is just starting to open up to tourism. But the curious who venture here are quickly captivated by the atmosphere of mystery which permeates each place, the welcome of the population, the feeling of being at the end of the world, the osmosis with nature. It's raining this morning in Taiohae. The fishing boats return with sunrise after a night spent at sea. Fish still remain relatively abundant in the Marquesas despite the large trawls which carry out industrial fishing in Polynesian waters and which threaten the natural reserves. Sometimes fishing is more abundant than expected, largely covering the population's raw fish needs. The fish will then be salted and smoked and shipped to Tahiti. Taking the road that crosses the island to the north, the climb to the Tetaitapuhiva pass is impressive with the Mahuiki waterfalls in the background and Hatiheu bay on the other side . Continuing further north, we come across the recently restored archaeological site of Kamueihei. The place is spectacular for the strange atmosphere that emerges from this pile of large basalt blocks and the presence of enormous banyan trees. The importance and number of these structures testify to the high population density that once occupied this valley: it is estimated that it was ten times greater than it is today. We finally arrive on the north coast. Following it towards the West, the green valleys follow one another, the island extends its ends towards the open sea opening here and there with magnificent bays, you feel alone in the world. The road takes us towards a rocky promontory topped with basalt peaks which takes on the appearance of impregnable citadels dominating the valleys and bays. Nearby, Hatiheu Bay seems much more peaceful. On the seafront, a few Tiki, the only witnesses of the human presence, seem imperturbably to enjoy the setting and the shade of the coconut trees. They seem to demarcate a sacred space where man is only a passing guest. The island's inhabitants and elected officials have translated this respect for wild nature into action by prohibiting any construction on the seafront and favoring tourism that respects nature. You have to take a boat to get to Anaho, one of the most beautiful bays on the island. A few families live in this peaceful hamlet where time has no influence. A coral reef, the only one in the Marquesas, was able to develop there and evokes a lagoon. The bay surrounded by a mountainous cirque is perfectly sheltered from the winds and swell and constitutes a privileged anchorage place for boaters. Craft lovers will be delighted at the Marquise. Sculpture is particularly honored and a school was created in Taiohae. The young students learn the imposed forms of this art under the watchful eye of their master Daniel Hatura. This artist devoted his entire life to sculpture, we owe him the monumental achievements which adorn the Taiohoae Cathedral. We can see carved in a tree, the statue of Mgr Dordillon, bishop of the Marquesas from 1848 to 1888. Notre-Dame-des-îles-Marquises cathedral was built on Tohua Mauia, a sacred and venerated place for the ancient Marquesans. The stones used in the construction come from the six inhabited islands. Marquesan craftsmanship enjoys a very good reputation throughout Polynesia. The craftsmen work with Miro or Tou wood, volcanic stone and bone. Every year in Papeete there is a Marquesan arts festival with the best artisans of the archipelago who come to exhibit and sell their works. Tattooing is also very fashionable, and goes beyond just Polynesia. Today, Marquesan patterns have become trendy. We are witnessing a real revival after years where it was viewed negatively under the influence of missionaries. Woodworking is also very appreciated. The artisans make Tiki, pestles, dishes, spears, paddles. In most villages, small centers collect part of the production for direct sale. But nothing beats visiting the sculptors to see them work and exchange a few words with them. Leaving the Marquesas for the Tuamotu archipelago the contrast is striking. We are moving from profusion to austerity. Imagine a string of 77 atolls scattered over a rectangle measuring 500 km by 1500. Imagine coral rings at the water's edge, posthumous witnesses of intense volcanic eruptions. Contrary to their appearance, the omnipresent corals in Polynesia are neither rocks nor plants, but animals. They are made up of a multitude of small organisms, fragile and often threatened by humans. It is in the lagoons that you can observe the most astonishing varieties of fish with magnificent colors. These atolls constitute a fragile and vulnerable environment. The absence of relief does not allow any protection against cyclones. The very poor soils and the absence of fresh surface water hardly facilitate the development of crops. The inhabitants of the archipelago, called Paumotu, had to display great ingenuity to adapt to this hostile context. Today the context is changing a little although in the eyes of the Tahitians the Tuamotus still appear to be a backward world. Copra cultivation has been encouraged and is an important activity. In the 19th century, the only Westerners settled in the archipelago were Christian missionaries . Catholics and Protestants engaged in a race for evangelization. Competition explains the diversity of religions in the archipelago: Catholics, Protestants, Mormons, Adventists and Sanitos. Some villages like here Tuherhera on the Tikehau atoll are particularly charming with their rows of Uru trees, coconut trees, bougainvillea and Ibiscus. Dance is also a strong mark of Tuamotu cultural identity here. An untrained eye could confuse it with Tahitian dances, yet the costumes here are different and the legendary stories are specific to the Tuamotus. Near the village, the beaches are invitations to immerse yourself in the clear blue. These Pacific atolls do not offer a wide variety of itineraries, yet they also have their secret paths. You certainly have to be born here to access Hina Bell Beach, perfectly protected from prying eyes which makes it the meeting place for lovers. The atolls are undoubtedly extraordinary places to spend a few days of vacation. They offer a timeless experience. We reach the end of the world, the last stretches of land before the blue immensity of the ocean and the sky which meet. For a long time, sailors have been frightened by the prospect of the ends of the earth and seas. Believing they were being thrown into an infernal fall, they did not imagine that the end of the world was at the extreme limit of Polynesia. Palm groves were planted to exploit copra, with pearl oysters these are the only activities possible on these atolls. Blue tourism finds its most beautiful expression here. It undoubtedly represents a vector of development, but the fragility of the natural environment, and in particular the scarcity of drinking water resources, prohibits any large-scale exploitation, which is good news. You don't go to the Tuamotu to satisfy your passion for museums, party or visit monuments. The possible activities are invariably oriented around the joys of water. The most promising is certainly scuba diving, which opened the Tuamotus to tourism in the 1980s. Here again, the only effective way to get around the lagoon remains by boat, with shuttles that connect the different points of life. Say Rangiroa and all the divers' eyes light up. Located 350 km north of Tahiti, Rangiroa has established itself as a tourist destination in its own right. Every year thousands of divers come to experience the great thrill in the passes whose constantly renewed water attracts an exceptional concentration of fauna, notably sharks. The sharks, powerful, streamlined, measuring approximately 2 meters, are very numerous. Very well nourished naturally, they present no danger to the man who comes to observe them closely. This last stopover at Tuamotu marks the end of an exciting journey. The possibility of achieving a subtle alchemy between leisure and pleasure, nature and culture. Polynesia, a labyrinth of sensations in which it is good to get lost simply by following the sail of a boat or the wings of a seagull.
