Planetary Imaging Start to Finish: My 2021 Workflow

hey it's steve in this video i'm going to go through my entire planetary imaging process from start to finish looking at the types of cameras i use how i actually set up my telescope to do the imaging process how i take the data and how i process the data let's take a look [Music] so in this video we'll look at the differences between planetary imaging and deep sky imaging look at the cameras and gear you need to image the planets uh take a look at what my setup is do an actual image capturing session and then go through how i process the data in pip auto stacker registex and topaz de noise and then just some closing thoughts at the end and i'll have time links below in the description to each of these segments okay so with planetary imaging there are some major differences compared to deep sky imaging the number one thing is that you're trying to capture extremely short exposures instead of long ones so instead of doing a 10 minute exposure of a deep sky object you're trying to do a 10 millisecond or less exposure of a planet also instead of trying to do a short focal ratio to gather the most light you can you're trying to do a long focal ratio to maximize the apparent size of the planet you're trying to capture also instead of stacking maybe 5 or 10 or 20 long exposures you're trying to stack thousands and thousands of very short exposures all taken within a short 60 to 90 second time period in many cases it does help to try to do the smallest field of view you can and still capture the object of interest to minimize the amount of data you capture typically you'll get your best results using a dedicated planetary imaging camera but you can use a dslr too and still get good results the main limitation with the dslr typically is that one you're not going to get as high a frame rate as you can get with a dedicated astronomy camera and two you typically can't get uh raw data out of your camera so you're pulling out some type of file that has had a lot of compression done to it and so you are losing some data if you do pull it directly from a dslr in most cases again you want the highest frame rate possible ideally a hundred frames or more per second if you can and one thing you don't need to take darks or flats because it's a whole different type of imaging process additionally you don't actually need a tracking mount at all i've taken some very good images of most of the planets using manual mounts that i tracked by hand because your exposures are so short what you can do is just let the planet drift across the field of view nudge a telescope let it drift across the field of view again and get good quality data without having to worry about actually tracking the planet on a good mount obviously having a mount that tracks makes everything easier but it's not actually strictly needed for the imaging process so what do you need for planetary photography besides a telescope well you're going to need obviously a camera of some type so here i have three asi cameras those are dedicated astrophotography cameras as well as a dslr now let's start out looking at the option of using a dslr camera so if you have a dslr you're going to need an adapter to connect this to your telescope so what i have here is a canon eos t ring adapter so this attaches this has the bayonet attachment that goes to your camera and then it has t threads on the other end and here is a one and a quarter inch nose piece that has t threads on this end so you can thread that onto your adapter for your camera put that on your camera and you're good to go now you're probably going to want to still boost the focal length of your telescope generally speaking you're trying to get up to like you know f20 f25 whatever and so you are going to need some type of barlow lens or power mate i have a teleview power mate here it's a 2.5 x power mate so it will boost the focal length by 2.5 times and so if you have an f10 it'll be f25 now i have this thread adapter on here that allows me to thread it directly onto the asi camera here but this will also allow you to thread it directly onto the front of your camera you don't need this adapter um you can actually just insert this one and a quarter inch nose piece directly into the power mate itself but this is sort of just a little more secure if you're worried about your camera falling off it kind of takes away one separate step so you can just thread this power mate directly onto your adapter as well like i have with the camera in and it does make it a little bit more of a secure attachment this is what you would need to do to get your camera set up to do your planetary photography and then inside your settings you're going to basically want to go to a very fast shutter speed and try to get your fastest frame rate that you can with your camera and that's going to just vary depending on what the camera can do so um some cameras can obviously shoot you know 120 frames a second if you can do that certainly go ahead and try to do that um if you can only shoot 30 then you're just going to shoot 30 frames a second but regardless of how many frames per second you're doing do try to keep that shutter speed really fast so that will reduce how much blur you have in the planet uh with each individual video frame so go for a very fast shutter speed regardless of how many frames per second your camera can do okay so say you want a dedicated astronomy camera a great one to start out with is this asi 224 i've had great luck with that i currently use the asi 385 the field of view is a little bit bigger with it but it's basically the same sort of camera in terms of the pixel size and how many frames per second you're getting and that kind of thing so not really a whole lot of difference there this other camera here though is only a monochrome camera so it only shoots black and white and so this one if you want to do color images you have to use color filters so you can basically get a red filter blue filter green filter uh and shoot with each of those and then combine that to produce a color image at the end these cameras all come with nose pieces you can attach them directly to your telescope otherwise again like what i did before i have this power mate spread it onto my 385 which is what i'm using right now most of the time and then i can have that inserted into my telescope now if you are using a planetary camera like this you do need to pick up a uv ir cut filter like this one i have here this is a vader uv ir cut filter you need that because the color cameras do capture beyond the visible wavelength and so as a result you're going to have blurring of your photos if you do try to capture everything from uv to ir especially in the ir it tends to be very sensitive and so by eliminating the ir spectrum you can sharpen up your image a little bit conversely you can use an ir pass filter and just capture ir with one of these cameras as well now normally you would thread this on to the front of your power made or barlow lens that you're using but i damage the threads and so i can't do that and so this is the diagonal that i normally use and so i just have the filter threaded onto the front of the diagonal now you don't have to have a flip mirror diagonal like i have here you could just use any diagonal and then just swap out the camera in the eyepiece you could align the telescope get the planet ready to go in terms of being in the middle and so forth with your eyepiece and then use your camera but with this flip mirror i can swap between having light be reflected up into the eyepiece or letting the light go straight through to the camera and so that makes it pretty convenient the one downside here is that depending on your eyepiece you may not be able to get the eyepiece and the camera in focus at the same time that you can kind of play with you know pulling the camera out a little bit and you know the eyepiece out a little bit and everything to get everything to where it'll be focused in both that's not a huge deal the main point of the eyepiece is to get the planet in the center of the field of view and then swap over to the camera and then i can refocus and and that's fine a nice thing to add to your collection of parts if you do a lot of swapping back and forth between imaging and visual use especially so my particular setup i'm using right now is a celestron 8-inch edge hd telescope on a celestron evolution mount which is an alt-az-mount i'm using an asi 385 mc color camera right now as my primary camera for imaging the planets as i mentioned earlier i love the bader flip mirror which makes alignment a lot easier you do need that uv ir cut filter i am capturing all of this currently with a 12 inch 2016 macbook so very underpowered in terms of the computer but you don't need a lot what you primarily need is a computer that has a usb 3.0 connection or better and you have to have typically a pretty good ssd drive to capture that high volume of data coming in for example if i do a 90 second video with the asi camera even at a pretty crop down resolution i'm still looking at typically on the order of you know 12 to 13 gigabytes or more for just a 90 second video capture and so you have to be able to write that much data to your drive you know within that time period to avoid losing a lot of frames and so it doesn't have to be a powerful computer at all it just has to have a fast ssd drive and that usb 3.0 connection i'm using the asi studio to capture the video data i like using it a lot of people use fire capture or other software to capture the radio data but i find the asia studio software pretty convenient and it works pretty well it's gotten better over time as well but it's just a personal preference so now we'll go through an actual video capturing and processing workflow session here so step one of course is to actually take the data so i'll go through how i do that typically then i use uh planetary imaging preprocessor otherwise known as pip to crop down the video data if i need to sometimes i don't but if your video capture is you know somewhat larger in terms of the frame size and you're just processing the planet itself and not the planet and the moons for example with jupiter then it's worthwhile to crop down your video clip to the smallest possible size that you can and still capture the planet because it will make your processing and auto stacker and registex and everything else a lot faster next is to stack the video frames in auto stacker then next up i typically do sharpening and registex using the wavelet functions and then remove noise using topaz denoise ai software which is great at that and then i'll do some final edits and image annotation in pixelmator but obviously you can use whatever photo editing software you want but that's pretty much my workflow so now let's go through an actual image capturing session okay so it's about 4 30 a.m and i'm outside here with my 8 inch edge hd telescope on the evolution mount i have my asi 385 camera on the back of my telescope there with the baiter foot mirror and the teleview 2.5x powermate and that is all hooked up here to a 12-inch macbook that i'll be using to do the image capturing you can see here i'll be capturing jupiter over the edge of my roof here so the first thing i need to do is get the telescope turned on and aligned okay now my alignment is complete i can select jupiter okay so i have jupiter aligned in the telescope now i need to go ahead and get the asi software loaded up as well as a screen recording okay so for doing the video capturing itself the first thing i do is open up the asi studio software and select the asi capture application within the software um you can see up here it does have my camera showing up there as active and you can see the resolution is currently at 1936 by 1096 which is pretty large i will change the resolution once i start capturing but for now i will leave it at the large resolution so i can actually get jupiter in the frame i'll go ahead and change my exposure time to eight milliseconds and then i'll pump again up here a bit just to actually make sure i can find jupiter now you can see in the screen there is this very faint donut jupiter is way out of focus and so it's actually hard to find and of course getting that in focus helps quite a bit and so once i have jupiter here in the frame i'll go ahead and change the resolution to 1280 by 720 and i could go to a smaller resolution but i have had a couple little spots of dust on the camera that i haven't gotten cleaned off yet and so by having the larger hip frame i can keep jupiter off into one corner and avoid having it be sitting you know in front of one of those uh little specks of dust because those specks of dust will end up obviously in the final image so i want to keep all the values in the histogram below 100 so i don't blow out any of the bright areas on jupiter so i adjust the gain here to be just under 100 and again your settings here for your gain are going to vary actually day to day depending on how transparent the atmosphere is if there is some haze or smoke in the air you're going to have to have a higher gain potentially and if the air is very clear you'll typically have a lower gain because you're going to get more light transmission and of course the bigger your telescope is the more light you're gathering and so you'll be using a lower gain value versus a smaller telescope so i went ahead and set the limit here to 90 seconds so we'll automatically stop recording at 90 seconds since jupiter does rotate very quickly going past 90 seconds does start to introduce some issues with your video processing you can go you can go two minutes or even a little bit longer and and still be okay but you do tend to get more blurring of features the longer you capture since jupiter is rotating quickly and so i captured 90 seconds of data here and you can see that was successfully saved and processed by asi and then i'll go ahead and do one more capture as well then if you look at the file listing here you can see i have a couple files i actually did a short one initially um as well and then i had to cancel that because i didn't have everything set up quite right but i have these two files here and you can see they're each between 12 and 13 gigabytes for the full 90 second capture so certainly some very very large file sizes again just for 90 seconds of video capture so anyway now let's go ahead and process all of this video data okay so i took a bunch of video of jupiter on the morning of thursday july 8th i have one of those files left to process and so i'll go through the entire process of how i do that right now the first thing i'm going to do is open up pip here and i'll go ahead and find the file i need to add here which is this one at 10 50 utc and when i took all these videos i took them at 10 24 by 768 though i could i don't want to process this bigger file because it is just going to take a lot longer in auto stacker and everything if i actually try to stack a a larger image size like this you can do a lot of things with pip you can crop it down it will center your object of interest in every single frame you can also combine frames and make animations and and do all kinds of cool things so but what i'm going to do here is i just have the one file i'm going to select planetary to optimize for that on the input options i don't think i will change any of the defaults here processing i have this enable cropping and this you can obviously set to whatever works best for the object that you're that you're looking at in terms of what size to use for your x and y and you can also do some offsets so the object isn't actually going to be in the center and so say you have jupiter in one of the moons and you want to you maybe have a frame that's going to capture both of those but if you have jupiter centered you won't get the moon so you can kind of do that to where you have it offset to one side by so many pixels and then you know maybe on the left side you'll have a moon or whatever so you can do the offsets when you are trying to capture an object like you know i o or something like that going around jupiter and you want to still crop it in but also capture the moon so you don't want that object centered i'm going to flip this vertically i wanted to have the great red spot on the bottom of the image and so i'm going to flip it vertically in this case you can also have pip sort the frames by quality i'm not going to do that here i'm going to keep them in their original order i won't do anything with animation the output i am not going to create a subdirectory i don't want to have an extra directory with the file so i will unclick that i will leave everything in adi format since that's what the original file format is you can convert it to something else as well if you wish but if you're doing stacking you're probably just going to want an adi or an scr file to to do stacking and before we process we'll hit test options make sure jupiter looks good it does it's right in the center there's a little bit of space around there and that should work out just fine and so we will start processing so if we scroll here we see this jupiter underscore pip avi and so okay so we went from 11 gigabytes to 2.8 gigabytes roughly you know so certainly it's a much smaller file size and if you don't need the bigger file you can just go ahead and delete the bigger one i won't do that now just in case something is goofy with the file that i created and i want to be able to go back and recreate it again but after you process everything you can go ahead and just keep those smaller files and get rid of your bigger files and save some drive space so at this point we'll go into auto stacker this is actually auto stacker 2 not that there's a currently an auto stacker 3 which is a little more advanced i think i don't have that one because i couldn't get it to run under one bottler on this computer i have actually auto stacker 3 i believe on my imac but it works fairly similar there's a couple little differences here and there but for the most part it is a similar overall process so i will go ahead and select the file here that i created with pip and then hit the analyze button i was getting some frames here and there where they get garbled and auto stacker will usually put those at the start so you can kind of get rid of them easily anyway this is very important to do if you are stacking an auto stacker is to go through and eliminate these bad frames and so the way you do that here is i'm on frame one you can see the one here and you can change this to a certain frame where you can just move this slider and you can use your arrow keys to kind of go through frame by frame using the up and down arrow keys and so if you want to eliminate a frame from stacking which you definitely want to do if it's like this you just hit the space bar it turns this box here red and then that frame will not be stacked with everything else so you can go to your next frame do the same thing and i think that is the extent of the bad frames and the screen at the end is bad oh just in case something goofy happens i'll get rid of these but usually i don't bother with the ones at the end because i don't stack all the frames anyway but just to make sure nothing weird happens when they get included i'll eliminate those from stacking as well so now we want to go to where we have a good frame and we need to select our alignment points now this is going to depend on the size of your object in terms of how you do this for example right here by default it's set to a size of 56 that's roughly kind of the size and pixels of of the box that it's going to use for each alignment point and so you can make it a smaller number it's going to give you more points and a bigger number number will give you fewer jupiter is a big object and so i usually have a lot i probably do too many if you do too few you're going to not have as good of an alignment and if you do too many you can sometimes get goofiness happen too so and it's just going to take a lot longer as well and so we'll do 56 here i guess that's 81. you can also manually click and add more points i can add a few more here around the great red spot or you know maybe one of these bands something like that but anyway i have 86 there that's quite a few probably more than i need but the next thing to do is to decide how many frames you want to stack or the percentage of frames you want to stack so i have 4617 frames so what you can do here is have it stack different numbers of frames in one go and that's going to be faster to do that than to go through and run this whole process multiple times because once it kind of references and aligns all the images then it's just a matter of how many of those frames it stacks at the end so if you don't know how many frames you want to stack you can go through and just put in you know three or four types of options here and and then see which one looks better at the end because the video because this thing was really good this day i can get away with stacking a lot higher percentage if this thing is bad you might do like 25 to get your best image every single day differs it's always a different process because the video data is always different every single time we do this so there's a lot of trial and error to see what works best for that particular data but we'll do two different stacks here and see what they look like now i'll do this normalize stack you can do a sharpened one i don't usually do that because i'm going to be sharpening in roger stacks anyway and the sharpening in auto soccer isn't as good i don't bother with that the rgb align can help a little bit in terms of if you're not using an adc in your image train which which is basically an optical element that can allow you to correct for the atmospheric dispersion um it's an atmospheric dispersion corrector you are going to have your red and your blue out of alignment a little bit relative to your green and because this thing is good i'm going to do a 3x drizzle and you can either do a 1.5 or a 3x a 3x is going to basically make the image 300 bigger than the original image when it does its final stacking so it's going to be a much larger image but if this thing is good typically i'll do a 3x drizzle do a more aggressive sharpening and then reduce that final image by half i mean to me at least you know it looks a little bit better than if i don't do that but again there are days where you can't do that and doing the 3x drizzle and then sharpening it and and then reducing the size later makes the final image look worse it's it varies day to day you know with how you're seeing is and what the final image looks like but a bigger image does allow you to be more aggressive in registax and doing some other post-processing than the smaller images so there is more flexibility if your physical size of your image is a little bit bigger so anyway we're gonna do two stacks here 140 180 of the frames we'll compare those afterwards and we'll go ahead and do the stack and this is going to take a long time on this 12-inch macbook again i'll go ahead and speed through this and then we'll jump through and look at the final images so it finished the first stacking of the forty percent uh set of frames and now it's going through and it looks like it's done but it's not this image stacking checkbox is grayed out but it's doing the second round and you can see here it says processing so it finished the 40 stack and now it's going back and doing the 80 stack we can go through though and look at the first image here is the stack of 40 of the frames and so you can see overall just stacking 40 and just doing auto stacker no sharpening at all you get a image that looks pretty nice i mean there's a lot of detail visible everything's kind of a little bit muted and you kind of blurred out a little bit but but there is a lot of detail that's visible there and so if your image looks good out of auto stacker your final image is going to look good obviously and so if it looks bad out of auto stacker it's not going to look great farther down the road so you do want to try to get the best image you can at this point but you can see here the comparison between a raw video frame on the left and the stack frame on the right and so it basically removes all the noise by stacking all those frames the same if you're doing a deep sky image you stack a bunch of frames remove background noise the same thing with the planetary images you stack a bunch of frames and that does remove all of that noise that you have in each individual frame and you get a dramatically better looking image just by stacking and not doing anything else we'll go ahead and pull up the stacked image here with the 80 stack and compare it to the 40 stack there's not a huge difference there it's possible the 40 stock is actually a little bit sharper anyway we'll go ahead and we will open up registex so select and we'll go to this 80 one first and see how that does but yeah some stretch intensity a little show full image so it kind of shrinks it down for us there uh first thing i'm going to do is the rgb align and there's this little green box and you can stretch it so it covers all of jupiter and then hit estimate and that's going to align the different red and blue channels to get the image a little bit sharper again we did do the rgb line in auto stackard as well and so that helped and mostly images have been like about like a one pixel adjustment and this is a very big image keep in mind um it was we were like 450 by 450 but then we did a 3x drizzle so it's really close to like 1400 by 1400 so it's it's a pretty large image and the red and blue alignment is only going to be off by about a pixel or two so you can see all it did was shift the y by one pixel and but you know it's it's a pixel of improvement i guess next i do the rgb balance and this is kind of a preference thing but i just do the auto balance and it just balances the colors the main reason i do that is because it keeps the images uniform if you're trying to do something like an animation where everything is going to have the same color balance which is important so you don't have variation from frame to frame when you're trying to loop jupiter okay so all the magic here is with the wavelets and you can i typically leave everything here with automatic and gaussian and i don't use linked wavelets that does you can actually get really good results with that but it really sort of amplifies the settings and things can get out of hand really fast so you have to be really careful with how you do that but it works well it's easier on a faster computer because if they're linked it's just the calculation is a little bit longer and on this little computer here it logs down pretty easily so i'm not going to do that now i have a bunch of sk of save schemes here i have jupiter 1 2 3 4 and high and super high and because this thing is good i've been doing this super high settings and we'll just see what that is here basically you have six waves here and it's kind of like from the large scale to the small scale features you can kind of think of this as a big polynomial equation where you have your first order second third and and sixth order you know your x your x term your x squared your x cube and so there's these sliders here you can do to adjust the intensity so you can set how much you want to remove noise and how much you want to sharpen you always typically want to have your denoise setting higher than your sharpening setting otherwise your image is going to get really grainy and here you can see it's already got quite a bit of grain in it with the settings but we can remove this with some other software as well but you can see certainly a lot of detail now pops with the sharpening and this is really over sharpened but this is what i've been doing for all the images uh for this video loop that i'm creating here and so i am going to pretty much leave it like this i'll tweak it here just a bit but again trying to keep everything the same more or less with some of the frames a little bit better others look a little bit worse but that's kind of how i'm keeping things now so if i was doing this for one off just by itself i would back off here on the end of sharpening but again i'm just trying to maintain everything frame to frame and and so we'll go ahead and leave this i'm going to rename this with a registex at the end so i can go back to my stacked set i'm not going to overwrite the image that i just imported so i can go back later and do some individual work with some of these and try to get maybe the best image or whatever we'll open up those three that we just sharpened here and you can kind of see the difference this is the 40 stack at the higher sharpening level this is the same with the 80 stack so it's actually a little bit less sharp there's a little bit more blurriness there interestingly so you can see a few the fewer frames actually came out a little bit better and then here is with the less sharpening done so we'll do the 80 one first i'm going to now use topaz denoise which does a great job at removing noise and your images so there's two models here at least in this version that i have there's a denoise ai and then there is ai clear and that's one that typically works the best for me it does depend on the image though the the noise ai this has you know again sliders you can really have better fine tuning and the ai clears just a couple settings and so that's probably why i get a better result because i don't i have there's fewer degrees of freedom and so it's kind of more consistent in that regard i'm going to do high and remove noise i'm going to leave the car recover details at zero and enhance sharpness at zero and we'll hit the update preview and you can see how that really helps to clear out the noise okay so that's uh the original and then with the noise removed and you can see it i don't know how else was up on the video but it definitely really smooths things out removes a lot of that noise in there and so i'm going to i don't if you hit apply it will just apply it to your image and it'll basically overwrite what you have so i want to basically do a save as so i can have that denoise um there in the file name so i can always go i can go back to the previous version and make adjustments again later if i want to and what i've been doing for this set of images is actually running it through the topaz denoise software twice and so i'll take the image i just exported and open that back in here go back to ai clear and we'll do it one more time i don't think it did kind of blow out this little area here which is interesting i didn't do that in a lot of the earlier images so it must just be that because of the way jupiter has rotated that this little white area here has gotten a lot brighter but what i'm going to do at this point is take this image here and get it ready to put into my loop of images and we can see how that will will go so i'm doing this as a 1920 by 1080 loop and so there's a few things i need to do one i actually have to rotate all the images because this was in alt as mount the image of jupiter rotates during the course of the hour and so basically taking all them and manually shifting them to be to be flat and so what i'm doing to do that and to get it you know pretty close is just drawing a box okay then we'll go back to this layer here i'm using pixelmator but it's similar for using different software to transform i'm going to rotate jupiter here i think i'll go with that as being level okay so i can take this shape out of here and then i am resizing the canvas first to be 840 by 2160 which is a 4k image um twice the 1080p and i'm leaving the original image centered i'm not resizing the image i'm just making the canvas bigger and then we'll view zoom to fit and so you can see how that how that ends up looking and now what i'm going to do is resize the image itself to be 19 well i'll just do 50 percent because that's going to make it 1920 by 1080. do zoom to fit again and now i'm going to add labels i'm going to open up the previous one and i'm going to go through and copy this black shape that i added along with all the titles from that image go into this one paste it in there then i have to move my background layer which is jupiter um ahead of the black square which i placed on there so now i have a black background across the entire image and then i can go through and adjust the time to be 1050 utc everything else for this one is the same and so i can go ahead and export this i'm doing a png and that will be good so these are all the images i created just from that data from that one day so now what we're going to do is we're going to go back to pip to make this final animation so now i'm going to do is go through and pip and select all the images okay so i have join mode selected because i want to make them all into one video there's the preview which looks fine so input won't be any different processing nothing we're going to change there output options let's see i'm going to do animated gif here for the first one no subdirectory it changes the frame rate to three that's way too slow i think around a 10 frame rate 10 frames per second looks reasonably good i think there's okay good quality we want maximum quality for sure otherwise you're going to lose way too much on your your output here so yeah i want to pause the final frame and i'll do it half a second which would be five frames because each frame is going to be one tenth of a second because i'm doing 10 frames a second and then i want to reverse and then again pause at the start for half a second and so we'll do this again this way i'll rotate stop rotate back stop rotate forward stop and just keep doing that endlessly so now we'll go back to our file list here and so this is the one the animation that it made anyway here is our final loop so that looks pretty nice i didn't get every frame perfectly aligned again every single frame i had to manually rotate to be level and so it wasn't perfect on all of them and so there's a little bit of jumpiness anyway that's typical process i use when editing my videos i take of the planets and again every single time we do this it's going to be a little bit different but you can kind of see here how everything works and hopefully this is at least of some help of how to go through this software editing process and try to produce your own image of one of our planets that looks pretty good i am going to have all of this data available for download i'll have links to that in the description below so anyway try grabbing some of those video files try it with the software see if you can produce some good final images of jupiter based on the data that i provided and again if you produce some really nice images post a link to them if you can in the description along with what you did to produce that image in terms of like your settings and registers how many frames you stacked in auto stacker or you know that kind of thing what settings you use and maybe everybody else can kind of learn from that and get a better idea of the best way to do the processing or at least learn another successful way to do all the processing so anyway that's all for now hope the video helped a little bit and thanks for watching [Music] you

Channel: Earth to Space Science

Views: 5,665

Keywords: astronomy, planets, astrophotography, imaging, planetary imaging, taking a picture of planets, how to, image, the planets, jupiter, saturn, cameras, ASI, 385, ASI385, ASI224, Canon, DSLR, processing, PIPP, Autostakkert, Registax, Topaz Denoise, animation, pixelmator, earth to space science, planetary photography, how to photograph a planet, planetary, photographing planets, how to take pictures of planets, image stacking, lucky imaging, photography, imaging planets, solar system, celestron, C8

Id: h6NVLWeOOyU

Length: 38min 10sec (2290 seconds)

Published: Tue Aug 10 2021