Plane Iron Sharpening - Bevel Up

well hello my name is Bharti and welcome to the my saw workshop today we're gonna have a shop Talk session we're going to talk about sharpening plane blades or plane irons specifically we're going to be sharpening the bevel up plane iron for this Veritas bevel up smoother plane in today's session we're actually going to cut a new primary bevel onto the plane iron we're going to put the secondary bevel on there we're going to shape the curve to make this a smoother plane so we don't get edged tracks and then we're going to actually create what we call is now called the where bevel by Chris Schwarz or the bit the ruler trick we're going to do all this using a 120 a 300 or 1000 Diamond stones we're going to use a 16,000 Shapton water stone and we're going to finish up using a green Rouge on a leather strop so let's get to that so the most important thing you need to think about when you're trying to set up a way for you to sharpen anything planes or chisels is generally what you're doing is to have all your stuff together everything that you need to sharpen needs to be organized in an easy way for you to use it so I have sort of copied everything that I've seen that I thought was good the first thing I thought that was pretty good was Chris Schwarz woodworking in America I did a plane demo and he had a box so he had a tree it looks something like this to keep stuff in so I made myself a tray and originally I was using all Shapton stones to sharpen with so pretty much everything I needed I could get into this tray well lately I've just graduated and decided I think the better way for 1000 what we call 1,000 grit stone and under is to use Diamond stones instead of water stones and so now I've got a little bit more stuff so just working my way over my system I keep a box of towels here or a roll with towels have a plastic shoebox I love plastic shoeboxes they keep you organized so all my diamond pieces I can keep and all those extra new parts I keep over in here so they get put away in there in one box my horse butt strap that I used in green room zone to do final sharpening goes over in this box so that's that's kind of the big layout in detail now what I have is I use the Veritas mark 2 sharpening system it kind of has two parts one is that the thing that holds the blade and the other that it has the roller on it and sets the secondary the angles on it now this comes with two different kinds of roller systems one is this flat roller right here and you use this to sit in the flat grind on the blade and the other roller system this is a tapered roller system that allows you to rock the blade a little bit and get your curves into your blade the other part of that is a piece that sets the angle here that you have little numbers here and color systems for you to set the angle with and so what I've done on this is I'm working on a 35 I've actually it's a 38 degree blade but I'm gonna set it to 35 and then put a secondary angle on it which will get me 36 or 37 and that's plenty close enough to what for what we need to do to have a smoother plane now when I use these Diamond stones I use the trend blue juice as they call it I'm not quite sure what's in here but trim likes it so I figure it's good for any diamond stone that's what I use to spray on here and give me a lubricant to lift off the particles somewhat I have a DMT dye sharp 120 micron which is a very rough stone I use that from Michelet an initial cut of an angle on the blade to get this this flat once I get that cut all the way down and that's somewhat of a process then I'll go to the 300 surface on the trend and the trends of 300 100 1000 excuse me and I'll smooth off the back so once you get that done then I go to the 1000 side of the trend and do my basic shaping when the basic shape is finished I go to a 16,000 grit stone here for a lubricant on that I got a bottle here and says soap water on it and that's a little bit of soapy water that's a rawness called Rob Cosman trick that then I learn from him so that's the pieces and parts of the sharpening system that I use let's now go look and start using these and putting things together we begin by setting the honing jig we're using the angle jig which has been set to 35 degrees on the red scale and using a two and a quarter inch marking for the width of the blade once that is set we can slide in the blade that we're going to sharpen the iron and I rested it against the stop point on the jig and make sure it's snug against the edge to make sure it's 90 degrees and tighten that down you can see what this looks like with the angle jig in place from the other side notice the width is set it's in a quarter everything snug and tight so we can remove the angle jig now and be ready to start sharpening from what our starting point is and this is what the blade looks like at this point we're ready to take this down to our 120 grit diamond plate and we're going to start real easily pulling this back and you can hear how loud that is how heavy the grit is so what we're really doing here is checking to make sure everything is lined up and you'll see them this close-up shot that you can see the evenness of the cut across the blade so we're gonna go back and keep on working on this and sharpening I'm going to really have one direction at this point and then once I get enough done I can go in both directions actually pushing push again you know shortening on the push of tool which is around what's happening right there I'm speeded up that much so we're gonna check the squareness of this we're looking good we're going to check the angle we're looking good we do a whole lot more when we get finished with the 120 grind and this is what the flat surface looks like we remove the back bar from the 120 final work and now we're ready to go to the 300 grit stone and we're going to continue to hone it with 300 grit and then we end up with a something to start that look pretty nice and smooth here with the final three hundred grit flat grind we'll remove the back bird from the three hunters rind and then go to our one thousand stone to continue honing the surface to a 1000 grit which is what I'd like to do we'll put on some of the boot juice here and then we're just gonna work this for a while and take long look at and see if we're gonna lose that back bird so we've now got everything finished with the flat wheel okay so you finished establishing the flat grind on your iron here so you want to change from the flat roller over to the curved roller you got all this set up and it's right so there's no need to move that all you got to do is to take off the roller and replace it with the other roller it's going to give you the ability to rock that back and forth because you've got a round roller underneath here now when I'm doing this generally I'm going to have this set either the first or second notch depending on I want a one or two secondary degree bevel I'm changing from a two degree secondary bevel to a one degree bevel by twisting the knob here which is on a spring set and then I'm going to establish the one degree secondary bevel very carefully here notice the even pressure I've got across all my fingers and keep this plate exactly straight across and then we're gonna do that a few times so here I've got my first stage of the one degree secondary bevel going exactly straight across now I'm putting two fingers on the right hand side and I'm gonna take four cuts from one two three four and then again one two three four you always do this and even pairs and then I'm gonna do the one finger and really get a curl on the Enduro blade so you can now see the curves on the end of the blade perfectly there so now we're ready to go to the sixteen thousand shaft of stones the shaft and stones have to be flattened this is the flattening device for a shaft in stone nice and white so it's all flat spray some more soap water on it now notice what's going to happen here you see that gray in the middle that's because of the blade is curved at this point so you're not gonna need cutting on the edges of the blade which shows you that you've done the job exactly to what you want to do that's the way it's gonna cut the wood now I've got my fingers on the right side here so you can see it cutting on the right side you'll see the heavy rail on the right side actually holding this now you can see the final 16,000 honing that we've done you can see the curves on the end and then we can remove the back bird that we created while we're doing this honing on the curve line there next we're going to use the leather strop with green rouge polishing compound on it we're going to continue to use the honing jig to hold the angles and be able to roll this this curve over and really get this home to a real fine edge here's the plane iron after final honing on the leather strop with green Rouge as you can see it's got a very highly polished final edge there I think this does help the sharpness of the edge and it's really easy to do after reading the latest Popular Woodworking article by Chris Schwarz on block planes the bevel up block planes and how to sharpen these I decided to apply the ruler trick or is what Chris has identified is the wear bevel on the backside of a bevel a plane in the article Chris states to use the final stone that you used for the back bevel so this is a 16,000 chapt in I've got the ruler sitting here and you can see I'm starting to cut that edge you can see that's a very very small surface bevel on the end of the blade there and we continue getting an edge on this as its of course speeded up and we find that our adage that were satisfied with cleaning this up so we can see it you can see on the back of the stone the marks left for removing the back burrs in the process of the 120 300 and 1000 grit stones this is really not acceptable and I'm really unhappy with this the solutions to the problems with this back bevel the 16000 stone is just a really flattened the back of the iron I'm going to go back and do this starting out with a 1,000 grit stone and actually just flatten the back but in the back is just a pretty simple process as you can see here on this using the 1000 Chapman and I'm gonna work the iron from both sides of this stone back on this you can see the result here on flat in the back on the 1000 and we've cleaned up all those striation marks from the other grits and I believe we're in good shape now so I've decided to actually put the back bevel or wear bevel starting with a 1000 which stone to get a much better surface made you can see here we're basically doing the same thing you can sample cutting this here you can see the nice even where bevel edge after the 1000 stone the expert was only where bevel is Shapton 16000 stone I have found that it's actually better to put the ruler down without the water first so that stinks it seems better again you can see how much we're cutting on the edge we're actually holding on the 16,000 rebels we get a really nice surface here you can see the results here of the 16,000 holding on this where bubble we've got a very even nice polished surface here the final step is to a hone the where bevel on the leather strop with the Green Rouge I'm trying to show you here what I'm doing is I'm pulling this almost flat and then there's slightly raising the blade up as I go backwards it's not perfect but I think we're getting a nice polish and we actually are polishing the final edge of this and in a way that will help and finally I'm just going to go back to the main bevel here and do a little stopping on that edge to pick up any burrs that we might have created as we've worked on this we're done this is what the final home looks like on the where bevel its polished it's cleaned it's ready to you well there you have it we've done all our sharpening let's see how this looks well as you can see I think it's working pretty well I know that I cut myself when I was taking pictures of it and and I barely touched the blade and I had a nice little slice across my finger so yeah its sharp I want to make something really clear here that every everything in this video was shortened down to showing you the essence of what I was doing when you're cutting that curve I did four strokes on one on each one of those you're gonna have to look at the plane and see what it takes you to do that it took me a lot longer to get that primary bevel on that thing then then I'm showing because I cut a lot of metal the 120 did a great job doing that big thing I want to emphasize to you is just to keep looking at the blade as those pictures I showed you that's some pretty good examples of what you should end up with I think it works for me so there we've got it as always I encourage you to go look at the - allcom website there's a lot of things documented there about how I built my shop just check that little eye up there and you'll you'll see the website there also I'd like for you to subscribe to this video channel there'll be a lot more videos come about my shop shop tours various pieces I've done in the shop just want to say thank you thank you for looking thank you for taking interest in what I do thanks

Channel: MySaw

Views: 6,346

Rating: 4.8909092 out of 5

Keywords: woodworking, plane iron, plane iron shapening, mysaw, barteelamar, bartee lamar, bartee, shapton stone, dmt diamond stone, bevel up smoother, bevel up plane, sharpen plane, veritas, horse butt strop, leather strop, Cambered, cambered plane iron, cambered iron

Id: _OVd3t2tyFw

Length: 16min 9sec (969 seconds)

Published: Wed Jul 06 2016