Piped & Zipped Scatter Cushions - Decorative Pillow

[Music] hello and welcome to the video um today i'm going to show you how i make piped cushions as always there are lots of different ways you can do them there are different styles to the corners there are different methods of joining the piping different methods of when you overlock it so i'm going to show you a couple of methods that i use quite frequently and i'll explain why and so i'm going to do two cushions today to show you a good selection of those methods the first one is a pretty standard cushion and probably the one that most people are familiar with or would do by choice in a professional work room for sure and that's with bias cut piping and putting the join for the piping at the bottom center of the cushion what i'm going to do though is i'm going to overlap the back panel first but i'm not i'm going to leave the front panel until i put the piping on so i'm going to put the piping on in place make the join here because that always ends up quite tatty once you've done it then i'm going to overlock round it which finishes off this bottom edge really nicely so when you're opening and closing the zip you've got a neat edge and the only other difference with this cushion is it's got rounded corners so i'm going to snip and curve the piping round which you can do much more easily with a bias cut piping than a straight cut piping oh and and also sorry is i'm going to put a standard zip in not an invisible zip personally i think once you've piped a cushion it tends to hide the zip anyway so you can put an invisible zipping by all means that's a proper job but for a standard piped cushion i see no problem using um a standard zip so i've got my continuous zip here and zip ends and i've also got my piping cord here okay so that's one and then the other cushion i'm going to do is a square cornered one with straight cut piping now the only really the reason why you would cut piping on straight rather than bias bias being the first choice even if you're doing a square cut cushion just tends to look a bit better but the reason you might choose to do is if the pattern is a particular direction or something you want to if it's a stripe and you want to keep the striping in in line rather than having a sort of barley twist effect or or if you've not got much fabric left because it takes up much less you've just got a little thin strip of fabric left sometimes all you can get is a straight piece rather than cutting lots of little tiny sections of bias cut and loving a million joins which never looks nice and you can though still join it as if you were joining bias piping which is what i'm going to do and the reason for that is the the joints tend to be less bulky you haven't got if you join it normally you've got seam on top of seam on top of seam whereas if you cut it on the bias you're the s none of the seams are quite landing on top of each other because they're all at an angle and then once i've made up the pipe and i'm going to overlock it and then i'm going to overlock both panels so it's a bit more of a standard cushion this but the difference with it is i'm going to put the join in the bottom near the bottom corner rather than on the on the bottom edge in the middle i'm going to put it near the bottom corner on one side but i'm going to still angle join it and i find the join at the bottom corner it should be i mean the join should be as good as the other joins anyway in your piping but i find a join in the bottom corner barely shows because it's always at that point where either the cushion's slumped and it's got those little creases in it anyway or it's in the corner of a sofa or it's behind another cushion or it's it's very rare that you see you really get a good sight of this cut this bottom corner anyway so it's a good option and then it leaves the bottom edge with a neat overlocked piece of piping and a neat overlocked edge of the cushion so if you're open and closing the zip you've got a nice finish so that's the second one i'll do that after and again same zip piping so we'll get started on this one so the first job is to overlock around the back piece of this bias cut pipe cushion and i've chosen this for the back as opposed to this because this just seemed bright and with this sort of flower burst here and there are more colours on that panel so it seemed a better choice for the back it's just simply a case of overlocking round okay so there's my overlock panel i'll just put that to one side for now and i've got my front piece my piping so i'll make it piping up first and i'll just pay a bit of attention to the joins really and which bits of pattern are joined together only because like that's got a very heavily solid bit of purple there if i was to join that to this bit here which is really pale for instance you're going to see a really obvious line of the difference between the two even though you're only seeing a small bit of the pipe and you you will still see that so i'll choose a different part of the pattern for that but i see a spy two bits that are nice and subtle together so i'll join those first so just angling the two pieces together and if you overlap rather than doing if you do that and then join it you'll end up with an off-centered piece so you have to imagine your stitch line and take that up to the top there so you'll have these two little ears sticking out one at the top one at the bottom and then you sew down between the two okay so that's one join and then the next one i might choose this bit actually because what i'll end up with if i just mock that up if i join that like that the only bit i need to be concerned with is this middle bit here because that's the only bit that's going to show on the outside of the cushion the rest is going to be all inside in the seams but you can fold it if you like just to to double check so you can see that you know it's it's going to be much less obvious that there's a join there between those two bits of pattern so i'll do that i think so i tend not to come away and snip the thread i'll just carry on on to the next piece i do do a bar tack top and bottom just a little one just to hold it really in place but even that's not that necessary so there's my i just happened to have three pieces so those are my three pieces done now i'll snip off snip between when you're doing lots of piping and you use this method and you just keep going and joining and joining it's much quicker to snip all the threads off and just snip snip snip all the bits apart so there we go and then i won't bother taking it to the iron i'll just press those open or even press them open as i'm making the piping up so now i need to change my foot to a half foot or a piping foot whatever you're using on your machine i tend to use a half up for pretty much everything for the zip for the piping even once i've i'm doing a lot of cushions i'll just start off using this i'll put it on straight away and do these joins initial joins as well with a half foot it's just as easy to sew with it than not so now i need my piping cord so i'll lay my piping cord in fold it over and just let it sit near the end it doesn't have to be perfectly at the end or sticking out at the end because you're going to end up snipping a bit of it off anyway to be honest and then making sure the piping's pushed up into the fabric well not really tight but well enough nice snug but not tight and then lay in the middle pinch the pipe in just fold it over make sure it's in there and then just machine up against it and what you want to try and do is rather than let the machine control how this fabric behaves if you do what can sometimes happen it'll push this forward and you'll end up with sort of twisting piping not the end of the world because you can strain it out as you put it in sew it onto the cushion anyway but just it's just harder to handle so it's worth keeping control of it at this point so i tend to lay it down i hold it firm with this hand here and then i don't let it creep forward i don't let any any any uh sort of extra fabric build up so it tends to stay pretty flat like that and i'm going to get to the join you can if you've got a chunky fabric trim these joins right down to just probably you know four or five mil each side of a seam allowance but i'll leave this because it's pretty flat as it is and then as you go over the seam just pay a bit more attention to how close you are just make sure you're snug up against it because it's a little bit thicker there and then if you want to you can snip that off um but i tend to leave it on because it saves a little bit of piping not much but it does save a bit okay so now this fabric does have a direction and it's a it is a very abstract floral so i'm pretty sure that's its direction upwards this will be the bottom so you can if you want just mark your center so by folding it or marking it or putting a pin in it like that so you know where you are and then just undo the end in fact i'm gonna that's okay again just be mindful of which bit of the pattern you're starting with because that's going to have to join up eventually to the other end so you want to pick a sort of not too dramatic part of the pattern i think this is fine actually because it's whilst it's very heavily purple there it's pretty generalized quite bland there so i think that probably worked quite well and i and you want to give yourself about from the cut back side of the bias about that much to work with so i would start with that in the middle there so the middle of the piping in the middle come back a bit to give yourself a seam allowance and then start about there and then you're machining this obviously right through you've got this stitch line already as a guide and you want to sew either right on top of that or even just inside of it and then you'll know that that stitch line won't show when you've sewn it like that you know it'll be covered i've actually got quite a wide seam allowance here but i've left it that way then i know i can put it through the overlocker and it'll cut it you have something to cut when it's going through the overlocker and then as you go around the corner as you go around the corner you want to snip it so i tend to put about five or six snips in well i tend to do scissors although be very careful i know how sharp these scissors aren't actually and i sort of leave that but i don't like really really sharp scissors because they can get you into problems so i know that i can cut that it won't cut through this fabric unless it was something like a really fine silk or something so i can use that as a buffer and i'll know as as that stops me from cutting it leaves me a good few mil away from the stitch line so i'll never cut through the stitch line using that method but by all means don't do that you just you know be more cautious and do a proper snip so you're a bit more controlled if you're a bit uh you're not too confident doing that and then lay your piping round the curve using the edge of the flange of the piping and the edge of the curve you've cut to give yourself that curve once you've got it laid in place take a bit of time to get it just nice hold it really well with your fingers and then just fold this piping down out the way just so you can see the stitch line and it's not and it's not your needle is not going to catch the edge of it and then just if you can keep it in one swift go just work your way around like that and then carrying along this side so same thing again starting about there ending about there really the curved part is really where you want to put the snips and yeah five tenths seems to be enough for me there like that so again lining this up with the corner the curved edge and like i said at the beginning of the video you can still do squared edges with the you know with bias cut i'd do this but i don't need to snip those off because i'm running through the overlock i have to just have it i see something that it wants snipping off i'll snip it off okay so now when we get to meeting up with the other end you've obviously got to make sure that you're you've got enough to work with to overlap and you've got to cut it at an angle as well so what i tend to do is i fold this back just as a guide a look for this the shortest point which is here and then running up there i know if i come this way by the seam allowance amount so say about half an inch and cut that off you can cut it straight at this point i know i'm gonna have plenty and then just undo the stitch line back and a little bit further and then and then what you want to do is join the two pieces like that so the two pieces basically form a right angle but then you sew in an angle down there this one you've already got this cut end so you've got that as a guide so if you can see that there's your straight piece it's very hard to show this i tend to just do it there we go and lay it on like that and then you want to stitch down there so i'll just test whether see that looks a bit loose i actually i was a bit generous with what i've cut off so i'm just gonna give myself a better guide more like that so again you can change to the full foot again if you need to but i just do it with a half foot right it saves a job changing it again okay so once you've sewn it just pull it tight and just make sure that you've got enough tension in it and lay the piping down into it just to see it there we go so i know that that's going to sew in quite nicely and flat and then trim off the same seam allowance first trim this one back a bit more it's easier to wear with and then there's also a million methods of well not a million but a few methods of how you join the piping the cord itself what i tend to do is i lay the two pieces side by side like that i don't pull them tight i just let them lie comfortably like that and then i pick up both pieces together and i snip i try not to get the join directly on the seam either i'll get it just to one side it's just what you know all those things happening at once in one place just tends to show and then the ends sort of squish together rather than go perfectly together because if you if they're perfectly together at the start and then you put a bit of tension on this as it's sewn it'll come apart so this just gives it a bit of ease and then fold over start back where you finished off and then just open up again and just check that this piping is pushed into the cream well into the crease and this the joined edges aren't all sticking out that they're nicely sort of tucked in okay and then also just and obviously make sure your seams opened out inside it's not laying to one side and then make sure you've got a nice straight line coming down here sometimes it's easy to forget that bit and you get a bit of a kink in it and then finish off that sewing so there we go so that's the join on the bottom what i'll do now is i'll overlock this and tidy up all this edge so we'll do that now and see i didn't use all that piping i've got that bit left so there's no point wasting all that cord i'll just pull that off throw that away and that's ready for the next cushion okay so i need to overlock this okay so this is the bottom edge where we did our join and what i'll do is i'll start the overlocking on any side but that bottom edge because you can never get a perfectly neat overlock finish where the two overlocked ends meet so i'll start on this side i'm lifting the foot up first make sure it's under and then keeping the foot up against the piping cord here i just follow the shape round and i'll just follow this this edge and here and it's chopping up the excess as it goes and then as you get to these little bits just make sure they're pressed down because they tend to sometimes they can push back and under the overlocking foot push the bottom the same with these snips that you don't get them folded over and then overlap the overlock joined where i started here i've overlocked and then just tape it off there okay so that's much neater now i'll just get rid of these thread ends that one end of overlocking so now we're ready for the zip to go in the bottom and i put my zip in first and then sew the back on so first of all we need an end on here like everything else there's loads of ways of doing this as well but having done a million of them in my life i can just do them without any tools and then to get the length right i just make it the length between the piping it seems to be the simplest way of doing it um i'll chop some off anyway so i'll get the length to about there snip that off there we go got our zip ready so still with a half foot on i turn it over so i've got the back of the zip and then i lay it sort of on top of the so that the coil of the zip is on top of the piping sorry about my nail varnish bag i can never it never lasts more than a day in the workroom um so that lays on top of the piping it can it tends to roll a bit off to the side that's fine see once i've laid it on and then once i push in with my fingers like that it tends to roll over which is fine what you need to avoid though is is catching as the needle comes down he's catching this edge here with it with the needle and then just letting the tape of the zip run straight off the edge don't bring it round curved like that just let it run straight much easier to put on and you don't need that bit anyway you'll see when i come to put the back piece on and then just start you can back tap there if you want but there's no need and then once we've done a couple of inches so you can close the zip past just lift your foot just carefully run the zip past make sure it doesn't fly off the end and then it gets a bit easier to sew once you've got the zip closed so again laying but the unfortunate thing is you're doing a bit more blind this time you can't really see where you are so you have to feel your way so lay in the zip center of the zip now on top of the piping and then push in with your nails you can feel where the piping piping is and then just so hard up against that piped edge and same thing at the other end just run it off straight threads so you'll see that it's in there in fact i can left a bit showing stitch showing there so i'm just going to tighten that up a bit actually i'm going to leave the zip here i'm just going to carry on as you might as well just run it down stitch stitching look a bit better rather than just doing that one little bit of stitching right there you go and then the back part goes on so that's where i overlook the overlocker and again that and that could be the bottom i'll take this as the bottom so lay those lay the bottom on the top just make sure the corners are matching the edges are matching and then flip it over and do the same thing going the other way this time you don't have to worry about sewing up against the piping cord but again just so just taper in from straight the only thing you need to be cautious of this time is that you're keeping all your edges in line if you want to put like a pin in down here just to make sure you don't nothing sort of creeps um creeps ahead of you by all means do so then i line the the edge of my zip with just with the edge of the fabric hold it just hold this back so i don't catch it with a needle and then i sew you'll see on the zip there's a there's a sort of a bit of a line the coils are here you obviously can't sew there but you can sew just the other side of this stitch here that's what i tend to aim for but it actually doesn't on this side of the zip it doesn't matter because you're going to create a flap to go over this anyway just to get it held and when you get to about here just make sure the needle's down and open the zip past just makes it easy to sew okay so now we've got what looks like a very obvious zip well that will be covered eventually with a flap i'll show you how to form that now this is to me this is the this is the best method of finishing the cushion and then we want to finish off the ends of the zip now and close the cushion up the best way i find is to if you fold that up this side of the zip against the piping just fold it back hold it with your finger and then lay it next to the other edge basically what's happening is it might be easy to show at the other end actually is this zip wants to naturally fold and it wants to flip like that because the piping's in the way it won't it won't go the other way because it's up against the piping so it actually wants to sort of flip like that well let it do that because that's what's going to form um the flap to cover it so at the other end where the zips are open you've sort of got to just recreate that so fold that one up lay it next to that like that hold it firm and then put it in the machine at right angles to the seam and you're sewing on the pipe side of the fabric because you've got this stitch line already to follow and it also tends to keep the tension much better than if you try and stitch it on the other side what tends to happen is this will pull and creep and it's less stable you tend to fight a bit more to keep the edges lined up so we can sew now right up to up to the piping and you've got these stitch lines to guide you but also if you feel away with the with your nails and make sure that you the piping is pointed inwards it's not sort of flipping back otherwise you'll you'll catch it and then back tack and do a couple of stitches like that and that'll give you a really strong end to the zip it'll finish off it'll close it and stop the end from the zip ends from being able to come off the end but also it gives you a really um strong uh end to the opening so if somebody's being a bit rough with the cushion trying to ram in a cushion that's too big for instance and they're really stretching the opening it won't tend to rip so now turn and then just make sure you've got all your edges laid together and nicely in line and then just pushing the piping away from you just making sure it's pushed out the way so you're not going to catch it with a needle just follow that stitch line from earlier around keeping that nice curve i'm keeping these edges lined up and when you get to there if you've got any sort of slight difference like that what you can do is you just keep pulling two corners together so they do line up push your piping out of the way hold this really firm and sew down and then you can ease out that that tightness it's the same thing so you've got a slight difference and that all that is is problem is because this is stitch with the piping and the the underside isn't so you just want to ease it back in so go to the corner first don't just carry on sewing here before you and then hold it firm again you can put a pin in if you want but i find if i hold that corner firm i got a better finish because i've got the whole of this side now to lose any tightness [Music] in so same thing allow that zip to fold that way like that so this is your back that's just piped front so this zips flopping this way flipping up like that and then last bit just find that little root through with your nail push it push the piping out of the way come around this corner until you pretty much until you come start getting going straight stop with the needle down turn just make sure your zips well out the way and then sew up and down that seam a couple of times and snip so there we go so now we're going to do now is turn the cushion now if you want to snip at this point you can do i tend to and because what i tend to do is i want to snip off i put the first snip here and it gets rid of the end of this zip which is hard and plasticky and tends to spoil the curve so i tend to put a snip in here first like that and then one around the corner so we've got one on each side then just be careful you don't go too far in leave it a good few mil away from that stitch line so you need a good control it's actually why i don't i prefer not to have scissors that are too sharp because if you if you just lost you just over cut a bit you'd be straight into that seam so into the stitch line and then this is the hardest bit because you're sniffing through that plastic as well of the zip there we go so now the best bit open that zip and then turn it through and then as you turn it you can make sure these are folded down like nicely rather than just sort of squishing them because they tend to get a bit lumpy then it's worth taking a bit of care over them okay so if i close the zip still doesn't look so good because you can still see all the zip but what you'll notice if you turn it over to the back you've got a fold forming here if you just push that zip down and then let this naturally fold over where it wants you'll see a flap form if you want to press it you can do just be kept be careful you don't melt your zip but um i tend to find just you don't really need to and actually it's better not to if you can avoid it because if you do you press it afterwards once you've stitched it but before you stitch it you can give yourself a bit of ease now you do want to put a few pins in here just to hold it i'm just going to put the pin through and make sure i catch just that side flange of the zip rather than going right through so it really is just picking you can if you just sort of pick away as you put there's a pin in you can feel you pick up that flange of the zip now it opens it back up just check you've not got yeah and just check you've caught the bit of zip you want it's held in place and then if you've got an adjustable foot you might you can at this point shift it across to the other side because you want to be able to sew up against the zip edge on this side so normally you would put it under like that but this half foot too far away from the zip um but i tend to not bother i tend to just put it in the the other way and it works just as well to be honest you just got to be careful you don't catch the other side of the cushion but you've got to do that anyway even if you have the you know the half foot going the other way so i tend to put it under like that come down now i can feel the zip edge here so i tend to do my flap but less than half an inch perhaps a centimeter nine mil now what you can't do is sew right up to here because there's just too much bulk to even attempt to get a nice neat start so don't bother just start where it wants to start and it's usually a couple of centimeters away it really doesn't matter that you've not that you're not sewing right up to that point it can't do anything it can't go anywhere so you'll see in a minute so just make sure your threads are behaving themselves do a couple of back stitches and then very carefully just keep in control of this nicely and what i tend to do is i hold this edge down as i sew and then just very carefully keeping a nice parallel stitch line come up to the other end and as i do i'll start to sort of fold that back now i'm gonna get to the other end you've got the zip there as well so it gets even harder so just sew as far as you can basically make sure your zips not being pulled in you've still got a nice parallel line to the stitch line and the flap and then until your foot hits this bit here and then just back from there either side and then slippery threads and then close is it and your flaps done so there we go it's nice and concealed like i said it tends not to matter but it's not an invisible zip because the piping just sort of covers that bit anyway and once the cushion's in as well it it it closes even more like that just with the force of the cushion inside it closes that little flap up and then i would i would just manipulate these corners a bit make sure they're nice and neat and we're done there we go so that's number one so that's bias cut piping join at the bottom uh the piping put onto the front panel first before it's overlocked what else uncurved corners so we'll move on to number two now okay so on to cushion number two now this is the one with the straight cut piping so that's my pieces here and i'm gonna make the piping up first i'm gonna overlock it i'm gonna overlap both pieces of the cushion and also we've got the square corners so i'll show you how i fit how i work my way around a square corner as well so i shall make the piping up first i'm still going to join this as if it was were biased i find it just as easy to do but by all means join it straight if you want just a straight seam like that on you know thinnish fabrics and actually this one's probably still fine it'll look okay i just find it's a neater join if you overlap it it's just more it's just doesn't show as much overlap it like that and then stitch that corner i've got my half on some missing right over to the opposite corner to there pull that over and then the next one so that's a pretty good match that piece and then snip off the seam allowance so there we go we've got good joins so like we did on the other one just open that the same laying the pipe in i'm so up against it well again quite snug but not really tight and then when you get to this seam just make sure it's open and that the piping's well flat against the edge fold that over so that it's quite tight in there and then stitch over that seam so you'll be stitching first over this bit and then you'll feel it the seam under here because you made it an angle so you'll feel like you're stitching over it twice okay so that's the piping ready and then we're just going to overlock that with the two pieces of fabric so again i've left it on the roll of piping just my my personal preference so i tend to end up catching these bits so i'll just snip them off now just roughly i cut the corners off anyway so they're going to go at some point but i find it to get caught if i'm not careful okay so as before just decide which i'm going to have as the front or the back actually whilst that's got a bit more dramatic pattern on it that's got all the colors on it so i'll choose this one it's a bit different than the other one and oftentimes you'll pattern match each cushion panel so you'll you'll have the same part of the pattern in each cushion just tends to look more coordinated um but these were just samples so we'll just i just cut them any old willy-nilly way okay so we're going to do the joints and that this i'm going to choose this is my bottom edge that tends to be the direction of the pattern so i'm going to put the join here um and i've got this is pipe now so we've just piped it but i'm just going to cut it back again so i just need to trim the piping stitch in like about three inches okay so i've cut that back the stitching back and left it open and then i'm going to lay the piping on about there because the join is going to end up probably across here so i want to start well away from that so i'll probably start about here so just do a couple of bar tacks and just the needle down because we're doing a nice sharp square corner this time i'm going to cut a snip just straight across towards the stitch line um and i want to come up here the same distance as this seam allowance here this hem allowance seam allowance here so it's about there so make a snip and sew down to that snip just if you just open open it up you can find it again make sure the needle's down turn the cushion turn the pipe in and then just push the piping back like that and fold it down and it'll just give you a bit more room to maneuver up against the pipe and otherwise you can end up catching the edge of the piping or not getting a really neat square corner and then stitch down and you've got the stitch line as well to guide you so then we'll come across the bottom now and then so the same thing make that snip straight across stopping short by a couple of mil two to three mil from the stitch line you don't need to do it right up to it will ease and then with the needle down turn push the piping up that way and fold it down there so you can reveal that stitch line get a nice straight run down and down the other side i've got a join right on this corner but it should matter not and actually if that was a straight join it would be harder to get this it wouldn't look quite as neat [Music] okay so now i'm back down to where they meet i want to overlap this double the amount of the whole width of the pipe in so taking a square there there i'm going to cut that there straight through everything get rid of that don't need it i'm just gonna wind the packing up out of the way and then do the same to this end of the piping as you did to the other so strip back the stitching to about three inches stitch line as well and then just come down a little bit further come off out the way and then same as before make a right angle with those two ends and sew down corner to corner sewing at an angle make sure your piping ends are out of the way i can feel the one underneath out of the way it's just this top monkey's insisting on pinging back there we go and just double check just test it first by pulling it straight and i know that's gonna leg nice and flat once i've trimmed everything back got the piping in the right position trim the excess off open that seam out lay the two ends together not don't pull them tight just let them sort of sit comfortably and relax together lift them hold them both up and snip through both of them and then you'll get a decent match then and just let them sort of two ends mingle together the threads there's ways of doing this differently you can strip back half of this chord and half of this chord so that you get an overlap like that and twist it together which is a nice way of doing it but personally i don't feel the need but a lot of people do it and if you get used to it you can get quick at it it's just one of those things you just end up doing but i tend to just make sure that the ends are nicer together pushed well in start back where we left off just spend a bit of time getting this neat and nice and straight there and sew down to meet up with your other stitch line okay so whilst you join this join section hasn't got any overlock on it you can take it back to the overlocker and just run over this bit but they then you're sewing you're overlocking both layers it's really hard to just overlock one layer um and it's hard to start and stop neatly like i said so personally i find it's better to just leave it like that just trim it get rid of all the tatty bits make it nice and neat and because we put it on the corner on the side corner anyway you're very you're never going to see it certainly not from the outside so it's only if you're opening the inside and the bottom edge is a nice straight run clean neat no joins nicely overlocked and that's the bit that's going to get the most opening in most views or opening and closing most use okay so now we want to put the zip in so same as before zip on first lay it between the piping okay and then turn it this is our bottom edge that's where our join is so we want to sew and zip down here i stand tend to start at the open end first and i want to sew down to about there um with the zip open then close it up and carry on with the zip close much easier to sew that way so starting with the edge of the zip roughly lined up with the inside edge of the pipe in i just let it sit on top of the the coil part of the zip sitting on top of the piping and then just sort of push in with the fingernail so i can feel the edge of the piping where the stitch lines are that we've just made and what tends to happen is the zip ends up vertical so what you've got to be really careful of is that as the needle comes down you don't catch this edge because the zip will then catch that you want to you only want to make sure you're stitching down here so just being cautious just do only for this first few inches just hold the zip back with i'd use my fingernails it's very close to the needle though so just be careful so down to about there should do put the needle down and then just go past with it with the zip just be really careful you don't fly off the end with it it's easy just just go like that so now we can do the rest of the zip with it closed which is much easier to sew so again sitting there's the zip center on top of the piping and then pushing against the piping edge with your nails to feel your way and then sew it just try and keep a tight and tightness up against the piping you're not too far away otherwise you'll reveal all those stitch lines and when you get to the other end this bit the piping tends to sort of push back like that so like you did when you put it on so do the opposite pull that down push that back so that you can see that stitch line you can get a nice straight run to the end okay so there we go there's a zip in place on one side so now we need to put the back on just decide which way up it goes that looks like the bottom supposed to go on like that and then working on sewing from the zip side i find is easier first thing to do is to line up these corners so you know you're starting in the right place and then just simply sew down here it doesn't have to be this doesn't have to be a perfect stitch straight stitch line it's just to hold it in place while while we're sewing it now but you know you may as well make a good job of it i tend to sew quite close to the zip coil so just again checking these corners will match up when we get to the other end i tend to do is i hold those together now and then just making sure the zip the edge of the zip is lined up with the edge of the fabric just come down the rest of me and the same thing just with a needle down take the zip past not to wiggle it a bit as you to get it past so that it's open and then finish off that last bit okay now staying on this same side on the piped side you know i want to finish off each end and close up the cushion so you're starting at the open end of the zip what you want to do is let the zip fold up like that on this side and let it meet sit against the coil of the other side and it'll feel quite flat and that's the idea if i show you on the other side it'll make more sense because it's closed here it'll you see it's naturally wanting to flop that way like that you see that there that's what you want to achieve but where it's open you've just got to sort of allow it to you've got to sit in the right position and then just make holding that firm just so press in there again with your fingernail to feel that stitch line that valley where you the edge of the piping is and then stitching from the edge down towards the piping you've got stitch lines to guide you so just to the stitch line and then back tack and i tend to do that just a few times and then turn it and then you want to come around this but this piping is sort of buckling inside here now sort of in it in its own way so you've got to manipulate it a bit and push it and pull it as you want it to get it out of the way so that you can sew right up against it on that stitch line and get a really neat corner keep the needle down and what i tend to do is i push my finger in here and roll the piping back out of the way and then get my fingernails in again and make sure that the piping isn't underneath where i'm going to stitch where the cuts or the cord itself isn't underneath and then sewing on the pipe side again just makes it easier for ease you don't get any gain i find so the same at the other end what i'm doing is i'm inside here now pushing this out of the way both ways you have to manipulate a bit mold it down turn it so when you're coming up this other side now you want to make sure when you get to the top that your zips in the right position so just create that fold again so this this bit here wanting to you're folding up the zip like that hold it firm just run your fingers down make sure the piping's pushed in towards the inside of the cushion [Music] and again when you get to this top corner just manipulate that cord again then sew along same as you did on the other side so it's probably just over an inch from the the actual piping itself turn be careful not to sew into the piping right there we go so we can turn it through now so but first i'm going to snip these corners off looks very brutal but i'm simply just going to cut right across the corner i'll i'm staying away from this stitch line here by about probably two to three mil and that can vary with depending on the fabric if you've got a particularly soft fabric or you know fabric that frays really easily you can stay further away but when it's just quite stiff linen like this you want to be quite brutal with the amount that you cut off okay so we're ready to turn let's open up the zip so it appears this camera ran out and i think it showed me so in this first corner but will have not shown me so in the finishing off but so basically when you get round to the second corner you do the same as this so you make sure that the zip close that back up is flopped sort of folded like that lay it flat come round it's the same as the zip we did in the bias cut piped cushion so you could always refer to that earlier in this video and then all i've done on from that is to snip these corners off straight across so now we can so all right carry on all right so i'm just going to close this zip just these corners and i tend to pull the corners out a bit more just manipulate that seam inside so you know it's nice and square and flat so there we go so the last bit all we need to do is to create the flap for the zip because at the moment you'll see that you can the zip sort of gaping you can see quite a lot of it at the moment so as we did in the first one turn it over just fold it let it fold down and then let this fold over the top naturally where it wants to fold naturally you can even keep to the uh the thread of the weave to give you a nicer crease if you've cut your cushions to the thread obviously which isn't always possible especially on printed fabrics it's fallen nicely like this time and then a few pins so i'll put one near the end just through the face the back fabric actually and then just catch in the flange of the zip that's all and don't go right through because you're going to open up this zip and then just open up the zip and check make sure that you've caught it and you've not gone straight through so there we go we've caught that and then what i do is i put it under you just using the same half foot i don't bother changing it to the foot that goes on the other side i just find it's one less job to do i'll leave it in i've got used to doing it like this now it seems a bit odd at first because you're working on the wrong side but it's fine and then just start the top stitching as close as you can get to there you don't have to be hard up against it it's usually about an inch away where you start and it really doesn't matter because this bit of the flap can't go anywhere the seam inside is holding it uh anyway so and you've got this you know really tight closed end as well so just do a few back tacks start and then just making sure this is out the way you're not going to catch it make sure it's nice and flat and just hold this edge so otherwise it tends to sort of pull back and start to twist just do a nice straight parallel stitch line down and you've got the zip end at this end so even more in the way but the same thing just make sure you've got this still nice and straight you can feel the zip edge inside that you know the plastic the coil of the zip there and that you're not going to stitch over it and then just sew as far as you can until you your foot hits this it won't go any further because it'll just start to be in the way and then again your back text that is it ends off and you'll see that even though this flap is only stitched from there to there it doesn't matter this bit is not doing any harm it's not it's not gaping it's not opening up or anything you just need this middle bit to be sewn so if i close that now you'll see that the flap falls just nicely up against the piping edge and when the cushion's in it'll hide it even more so there we go that is cushion number two done so whichever you choose is up to you and there are even more methods but those are probably the two most common ones that i use and like i say for various reasons so i hope it was useful but if you've got any questions or queries or requests for any other videos just make a comment below that's it thank you goodbye [Music] you

Channel: Windmill Curtain Room

Views: 108,557

Keywords: cushion, scatter cushion, decorative pillow, how to make a cushion, piped cushion, how to put a zip in a cushion, the windmill workroom, how to make a decorative pillow, how to insert a zipper in a pillow cover, how to insert a zip in a cushion cover, how to pipe a cushion with zip, how to pipe edge a cushionewing, Make a scatter pillow with piping, sewing projects, interior design, easy cushion, diy cushion covers, sewing tutorial, best cushion, Piped & Zipped Scatter Cushion

Id: Um47CSLug_0

Length: 80min 47sec (4847 seconds)

Published: Wed Nov 25 2020