A small white grain, source of life,
or rather survival. It is the staple food of many countries. On the island of Mindanao, in the Philippines, in the village of Kalabugao, life is punctuated by these harvests. Rice is the only means for its
inhabitants to earn some money. Rice is part of our life. And besides, it's the best in the world! Not so long ago, bags of rice were leaving
in town, by cart. An endless journey. So the peasants united and now every two weeks, a truck takes their produce to the market. Dodong, with the cap, is the village truck driver. I lend a hand to make it go faster, Otherwise, the seeds may germinate. We are in full monsoon period and
beyond the rain, the air is full of humidity, Almost 70%. In 24 hours, the rice will start to germinate and become unsaleable. A disaster for the village. Lisel is part of the journey. It is she who is
responsible for negotiating the rice at the best price. I know the rice business well. Discounts
that can be negotiated, the types of rice. In this job, you have to know the difference
between good and bad seeds. And the most important thing is to know
the loading capacity of a truck. And this time, Lisel took a risk. Because of the ambient humidity, she had to board
two and a half tons of additional rice. What destabilize the old truck, and its driver. When you drive a truck like that, you have to
pray, because we are always in danger. They built this bridge recently
for vehicles to cross. The bridge is just two years old and already seems ready to collapse. It is a bit like the Philippines. A country torn between growing modernity and forgotten regions. Located between Taiwan and Indonesia,
the archipelago has nearly 7000 islands. Outside the tourist trails, in some areas,
most residents are on their own. Trading is sometimes almost impossible. The job is very tiring. I sacrifice myself to make a living. So, even if it means suffering, you might as well take
risks that can bring in a lot of money. But then again, it takes a hell of a lot of courage
to the Filipinos to fetch gold, 15 meters below, at the bottom of these mud pits. - How do you feel down there?
- Everything is fine ! Smile without ever complaining,
a weapon against the harshness of life. Suffer to make yourself stronger, thanks to magic. Filipinos have morale and yet in these
public transport dating from the 1950s, They would have something to lose him quickly. I can't put my feet down. I have leg cramps. Some will never reach the end of their journey. But again, nothing to get upset about, just as much to laugh about. Like a juggernaut following the rhythm of the caravan, Dodong and Lisel's truck does not exceed 10km/h. We head to Aglayan with all the bags of rice. We have to drive slowly because the road is difficult. A journey of 70 kilometers awaits them. In the
best conditions, they will take 6 hours. But there, in the middle of the rainy season, it is good
they may never arrive at their destination. In addition, we are very busy. Loaded with six tons of rice, which
just waiting to rot in the rain. The ravine is never far away. And with this mud, the slightest bit of sudden braking will send Dodong and Lisel 40 meters lower. Even being used to it, I'm still afraid. And to slow down, they will slow down. This vehicle is not broken. However,
he is stopped by someone smaller than him. A miniature truck blocks traffic in both directions. We drove over a very big rock. - The van is too loaded...
- Oh yes, absolutely. Little by little, a gigantic traffic jam is forming, To the great misfortune of the passenger of this van. In these lost lands, these are the
inhabitants who act as ambulances. I am injured here and then there too. I was going to buy cigarettes and
a guy attacked me with a knife. He was stuffed. I couldn't escape. He has been waiting for 4 hours and his ordeal is far from over. The lead truck's winch has failed. Lisel worries about her rice and her family. She and Dodong should be halfway there already. There is no network. My family will be worried because
that I can't tell them we're stuck here. Everyone wonders how the driver did
to roll on this huge rock without seeing it. Watch your feet! Even if it's absurd, no one is judging. Nobody says anything. Dodong knows well that the roads of
his country are full of surprises. Moreover, a few kilometers further,
here he is himself trapped. The truck is stuck because it is too heavy. It's dirty rice. The husk of the rice, so that the soil does not slip. Go try it. Dodong and Lisel pay dearly for having
overloaded their truck with two and a half tons. I try to step back. They are now 7 hours late. But
Dodong knows how to remain a philosopher in the face of problems. I'm stuck on this road on almost every trip. Getting upset wouldn't do much good. - Back off Dodong...
- This time it's really stuck. After an hour, two good stars, Or rather the headlights of this construction truck
may announce the end of Calvary. Come on, come on, let's hurry. It does not work. I am very worried because we are really
blocked and I'm afraid my rice will go mouldy. In an attempt to save their cargo, the driver
of the yellow truck does not give up. No question of admitting defeat. And yet... This time the broken cable rings
the end of any new attempt. The construction truck takes off. As for
Dodong and Lisel, they've set up camp. We're going to rest. It's too complicated, you can't see anything. Tomorrow we will see better. I should have brought my duvet. A few hours of sleep later, Dodong is already at work. The smiles of the day before have disappeared before
the image of their truck trapped in the mud. Dodong and Lisel took a day
delay. The situation seems inextricable. The driver wonders why luck has abandoned him like this. In fact, Filipinos tend
to say that luck is earned. Many men and women are ready to
cross the country to find it. Legend has it that, on the island of Luzon, a
an old lady from the village of Buscalan, Would have the power to bring you luck and strength. To reach his village, you have to take these strange machines. After World War II, soldiers
Americans abandon hundreds of Jeeps. A genius handyman has the idea to lengthen them
and swapping khaki for bright colors. Filipino public transport was born. Each driver uses his imagination
and sometimes she is a bit kitsch. Mark the destination on the bag! How strong you are. Each space of the machine is exploited. It's frozen deli meats. We're going to sell it. Do you have to put ice cubes? The temperature is around 30 degrees. Not sure these
a few ice cubes really preserve the cold chain. - The battery is low.
- Low battery ? And who says problem says foot pain in anticipation. If there is a breakdown, we have to walk. At the end of the journey, the much sought-after village
by pilgrims in search of luck. Everyone clings to their dream, because Johnny, the
driver, announces an eventful journey. I've been doing this trip for a long time. The 40
kilometers that arrive are always very complicated. From the start of the journey, the old
shock absorbers cry out their suffering. Besides, the passengers too. I can't put my feet down. I have leg cramps. And even today, we are lucky, we are not too tight. Okay, it's uncomfortable, but
the machine has the merit of going everywhere, And that is terribly practical for
the most distant inhabitants. I had to go to town to accompany my daughter
to the doctor, because in my village, there are none. The road is rutted but strangely Johnny does not slow down. If you drive too slowly, the journey does not end. Finally, when it accelerates, it rarely exceeds 30km/h. But given the condition of some roads, Filipinos
are rarely used to speeding. He drives way too fast. And with children, that scares me. Unfortunately for passengers, these paths
are not the priority of the government. If the municipality leaves the road in this condition,
in a few years, we will no longer be able to drive. The bus now enters mystical lands. The village of Buscalan is not very far. This is the territory of the terrible Kalinga warriors. Their specialty was to cut off the heads of their
enemies and display it as a trophy. The last heads would have fallen towards the end of the 70s. Legend has it that the strength of
warriors and their fighting ability, Came from supernatural tattoos. These are the tattoos that are looking for
lucky candidates, like Bahiani. The last mystical tattoo artist from the Philippines, lives
in these mountains and only a path leads to his village. You know, we come from all the islands of
Philippines to get a tattoo here. Today, warriors have become peaceful farmers. Wang Aud is over 100 years old. She tattooed the last head-cutters of her tribe. The queue keeps getting longer in front of the tattoo artist. I traveled 14 hours from Cebu Island to get here. Everyone comes to get the tattoo that will bring them luck. A scorpion for strength and protection. Here, a sun that mingles with the moon,
promise of good health and vitality. Or a compass that directs your
choice in the right direction. Diwata is 28 years old. She came to seek the strength of
scorpio to face the trials of life. It is as if something in me had been accomplished. Bahiani refuses to have his
tattoo, too personal according to him. - I'm already going to tattoo you my signature.
- Where do you want me to do it? - On the shoulder. - I make two big points and a small one. The ink is made from soot and the needle
of grapefruit is changed with each new tattoo. - It's painful ?
- No it's fine, it's not that painful. - Sorry to contradict you, but I know it's painful. - Okay, a little bit. There is no price, everyone gives what they want. Do not move otherwise the tattoo will be missed. With her art, the old lady brings the whole village to life. But at nearly 100 years old, Wong Aud
is close to hanging up the needles. Although she transmitted her knowledge to a few disciples, Everyone wonders if tattoos will keep their power
or if they will become mere drawings. After her death, the tattoo artist will continue to be revered. Like his ancestors, his burial may be
installed on the sides of this cliff. Coffins are hung like this
so that they are closer to the sky. It is a very old practice that
has been going on for generations. Suspended from the highest, also to avoid desecration. At the time, it was not uncommon for head cutters
come to look for trophies in the cemeteries. Every time he comes to meditate, Gérald
honors his ancestors with gin and a few cigarettes. With this offering, I thank them. And I ask them to guide me, my
family and me from where they are. For its part, Dodong is still entangled in
the mud and he could use some help, From one of his ancestors or from a tattoo
of scorpion which brings strength and protection. Although, the driver prefers to rely on the
arms of his assistants. And there is work. It's really deep.
But it must be done. We can get there. Dodong and Lisel are now 24 hours behind. Each additional hour spent on
the road endangers their cargo of rice. The problem is that our merchandise can get damaged. And Lisel could lose the sale. As proof, these grains of rice fallen from a bag
in the back of the truck, two days before they left. The germ is already five centimeters. If moisture rushes into the six tons of
grains, the cargo will be good for the trash. But the Philippines are not
nicknamed the land of smiles for nothing. Dodong and his men keep their good mood. - How long have you been here?
- We slept well! Only a bulldozer can get them out.
So some are trying to push through. Go look under the truck, if there is
pebbles that block. Hurry up ! Not really a good idea. It's normal to be stuck on a road like that. Today, I have already towed eight trucks. Now the track is completely clogged. We really need a bulldozer. Like these chickens, a cacophony of
suffering engines invades the ambient air. Go down, it's safer. It's very deep. Steel giants of matchless power,
arrive mid-morning. All year round, these bulldozers
maintain the road as they can And serve as a tow truck. Given the condition of the runway, the government
does not charge for rescues. Normally it's free, but we give them
a little something to thank them. Dodong and Lisel are still 40 kilometers away
travel before reaching the market. - We're on the road. What time do we arrive?
- 13 hours. - 1 p.m., and where are you? A few more kilometers of mud and they
will be on a beautiful paved national road. Their journey ends when others wait
yet we come to deliver them. We've been waiting for the tow truck for three days. Here, have some rice. - There is also coffee and milk.
- Thanks. It's important to help each other because it can happen to us too. The sun has appeared, Dodong has
drops the tarp to remove the moisture from the bags. I'm not happy with the wasted time. But I'm glad to finally be back. I will finally be able to sell my rice at the market. They will have taken more than 24 hours
to travel only 70 kilometers. But their efforts were not in vain.
All rice cargo will be sold. For most Filipinos who live in the countryside, The average salary tops out at 9,000 pesos, or €150 per month. Earning a living is a struggle
and sometimes the courage of man, Who wakes up every morning with a dream. Getting rich in defiance of danger. To find gold, Sella is content
to sieve the sand on the surface. Besides, there is not much at the bottom of the shovel.
Which is to say nothing. A little further ... Others take all the risks. These gold diggers are unique in the world. Congratulations, you are a champion... Ujong just spent 2 hours filling out
bags of mud fifteen meters deep. - How do you feel down there?
- Everything is fine. The well measures one meter by one meter.
Better not be claustrophobic. - Are you going to come back down?
- Yes, I haven't finished. It is still early. Ujong spends an average of 6 hours at the bottom of the hole.
The mask serves to protect his eyes from the sand. Under water, he is plunged into total darkness. Let's go. Besides, a torch would not serve him
nothing in this muddy water. The air he breathes is sent by this compressor. When you're underwater, you kill this tube. It is thanks to this that we breathe. This pipe is keeping us alive. If you don't have that, you swallow the sand and drown. In 2 hours, the diver fills fifteen bags of mud. The Earth is immediately sieved,
in search of the precious sequins. It takes between a week and a month to empty a well. The danger is that the sand
collapses and bury the diver. Impossible to know how many minors
end up buried at the bottom of wells. The work is clandestine, so there is no
figures but the police are chasing them. What do you risk if you are caught? We are handcuffed! And we pay the fine. The fine is around 300€. A fortune. It must be said that the precious metal is often desired. Here, the gold is very fine. There are no nuggets. On average, these extreme miners
rise between one and two grams of gold per day. That is 40€ to be divided into six. In the Philippines, a devastating gold rush is underway. The country has the third highest potential
gold of the planet. The ground is full of gold. Mines are springing up like mushrooms. And mainly in a southern province
whose name sounds like a Stations of the Cross. The Compostela Valley. This valley is not famous for its pilgrimages
but for the sweat that emanates from its mountains. This morning, a dictator is on the move and nothing can stop him. This truck is old, but it drives. Here, they call him a Saddam. It seems that this truck was used during the war in Iraq. Saddam for Saddam Hussein, the truck
was used by the Iraqi army. They are the only trucks that can drive here. The Saddam ferries the gold diggers to
one of the most dangerous mines on the island. The road ends there. Saddam cannot rise higher. The
miners investigate 2 hours of walking in the mountains. When they arrive, new chisels await them.
They were forged on site that morning. You see, that's what we pick up. The vein is good, the gold can be seen with the naked eye,
but this nugget is not free, There is a price to pay with his life. During the monsoon, the mine weakens. The rock is waterlogged. We are really in danger here. Look at this. The rock is crumbling. It's too dangerous. Because on the surface, waterspouts ravine the
Mountain and seep all over the mine. Come on, let's hurry! Beyond the collapse, the miners fear drowning. Here is our home. There are twelve of us sleeping in there. The men live almost in autarky. The giant bamboos that grow around serve as ovens. Inside, chicken marinated in lemongrass. Something to warm the hearts and souls of men. Especially since the break is short-lived. Watch out for Jim bags. Now you have to wear the
bags of dirt to a jeep, Who will carry them to Saddam. We earn between 5 and 7€ per day. It's really exhausting. I ache all over. But I have no choice. I did not find
other work, so I continue. Each bag weighs around 50 kilos and the jeep
is one kilometer higher. For each bag he rides, the miners get a bonus. Today I had to carry ten bags. But on days when it doesn't rain. I wear 20. At 60 euro cents per bag, The bonus is very meager in view of the effort expended. Pedro, the young driver doesn't like mud.
His look clashes next to that of the miners. The road is very narrow here. The jeep is suitable for mounting the bags.
Only she can pass. A bit show-off, the young man prefers to play
the pilots. And he's right. He earns a little more than a miner. Even if the steering wheel is normally forbidden to him. I don't have my license yet, so I
only drive on these small roads. Only here, when one shows off, it is worth
better know how to master his art, If we don't want to become the laughing stock of the mountain. Even relieved of any load, Pedro's Jeep does not pass. To prevent the wheels from spinning, miners
agree to sacrifice one of their bags of gold. I can't move forward. It's too much
sliding. So he tries to plug the holes. The Jeep may well run on gold. She is not out of the woods. Here! Pull the cable over there. We do this when there is no other solution. Nothing works. It doesn't work. It's normal, it can happen. His boss arrives quite annoyed. - I'm stuck, I can't move forward...
- Wait a bit. It wasn't complicated, but he doesn't drive very well. Oh it's heavy! All that remains is to charge the Saddam. But the problems keep coming. The tire is punctured. It will have to be replaced and cleaned. You have to wash that. I remove the mud because it's really dirty. Here is the hole made by the rock. Are you going to be able to fix it? No, we'll throw it away. You will have to drive very slowly.
If the tire hits a rock again, It is in danger of bursting. Above all
the cargo is very heavy. A lot of efforts. A lot of problems. A lot of stress. Gold fever makes men lose their minds. Abé tries to keep a cool head. You have to be very vigilant, be careful
to the weight and calculate the obstacles well. Even with power steering, you
can't shoot improvising. You have to anticipate. The road is completely flooded,
you really have to get used to it. The convicts of gold are far from having finished the job. All cargo must be transferred to this other
truck, more suitable for driving on a paved road. - We are tired.
- And I'm hungry. The seven tons of soil will be washed in a secure place. A burst of energy and sweat which, for once, pays off. Once washed, the mine boss will recover almost a kilo of gold. Miners know very well that they
will never be rich, but it doesn't matter, Their fortune is first and foremost their survival. Last year, the mines
buried alive nearly ten men. She don't look like it but that old Jeep
is the last hope of many drivers. At the wheel, we find Dodong, the rice transporter. When he has no delivery to make, he
becomes a mechanic, or rather a repairman. Hi, where are they? They are not far, where the coffee is. Dodong is the only mechanic
of the region to move. At his side, Roumi, his boss. In general, when people call me, it means it's serious. At thirteen, I took him on as an intern
and I taught him to drive. I am his teacher. Both go to help out a truck loaded with vegetables. And as with rice, the cargo threatens to rot. When it moves, Dodong and Roumi board
with them, free of charge, a few travelers. In this area there is no public transport. Fortunately, people help us, Otherwise we would walk for hours. Finally, sometimes walking might be less strenuous. - Where are you getting off?
- Nearby. Thanks a lot. The repairmen arrive on site after a 5-hour drive. Help me it's heavy. Dodong is far-sighted, he took a welding machine. Look at this my friend. It's really broken. It must have hit a rock. Bad news. Soldering would be useless. At this level of breakage, Dodong can only patch things up, In order for the truck to reach the
garage to change the room. He's been fighting for 6 hours now. As for Roumi, his boss, he encourages him
pushing the song. Attach the chain here. Shoot again. Wait, it's too short,
you can't shoot down. We can't do it... It's only late at night,
lulled by the sweet voice of Roumi, That Dodong will overcome the breakdown.
