Phanteks NV7 Build - Step by Step Guide

hello and welcome to another full Snapper snap PC build guide and today I'm really excited to be putting a build together in the brand new fantax nv7 ever since I first seen this case I've been absolutely dying to get my hands on us so the waiter is over and I'm really excited to be doing this today I've got some really cool parts to put in this PC and I think they're going to go so well so let's take a look at the parts I'm going to be building with today for the motherboard I'm going to be using the Asus Rog strix z790e gaming Wi-Fi for the CPU I'm going to be using Intel's 13th gen i7 the 13700k keeping our CPU cool I've got a 360 millimeter AIO from deepkill it's the lt720 in Black for Ram I've got 32 gigabytes of Kingston Fury based RGB ddr5 at 5600 Mega transfers per second for storage I'm going with a single Gen 4 nvme M.T SSD for this build it's from Team group Anastasia cardia a440 Pro in one terabyte capacity powering the whole build I've got a 1200 watt fully modulated titanium power supply from bequan it's the dark part Pro 12. and because I'm going to be using a 40 series GPU in this build I've also picked up their 12 volt Type R pcie adapter cable for the graphics card I'm going to be using the aorus master RTX 4070 for case fans and user contacts is brand new d3120 fans and I've got a mixture of regular and reverse fans for the build okay that's all the parts let's take a closer look at the case so to remember tempered glass side panel we need to open the mesh door in the back of the case we've then got two captive thumb screws which we need to listen and then we're going to be able to slide the panel backwards tilt it out and left away removing the front tempered glass panel is optional but it will give us more access for the build so I'm going to do it there's two screws we need to remove with the two screws removed we're going to be able to pull this panel forwards and lift away at the rear the case we've got our instruction manual and case accessory box we'll show you what this contains later on to remove the cases top panel we've got two captive thumb screws we need to listen then with some switch debacle listen we're going to be able to slide our top panel backwards and lift up and away and we take a look at the panel we've just removed you'll notice there's no separate dust filter underneath it it's just mesh a little pattern in it is fairly fine just when we're at the top of the case I'll point out the buttons that we have the first four buttons are to control the cases that built in argb controller and it is a dual Channel controller there's two different channels on it that you can plug into and this button is for switching between Channel a and channel B we've then got a button to control the speed of the argb effect the color of the argb effect and also the mode and then as well we've got our power button if you're thinking of going with a custom Loop you'll be pleased to see we've got a cutout for a film port at the top of the case so you might be wondering why we've got this mesh panel on the back of the case and I think the idea behind it is to improve the Aesthetics at the back of the case but hopefully because we've got mesh in it without altering the airflow and Aesthetics is a big thing at the back of this case and you notice we've got all these little cutouts here and the idea behind these is you're going be able to pass your cables coming from your power supply and your motherboard bring them out through these colors and keep them organized down at the bottom of the case so as I've mentioned you can open this back door there's you can get your finger into here and swing it open the back door is also removable and to do that all you need to do is lift it upwards and away again taking a look at the back of the door there's just mesh on it there's no separate dust filter so with the door removed you can see that our power supply is going to go at the top and you can see what I mean about the cable management so you can pop the cables coming from your power supply into these little organizers at the side and that's going to keep everything nice and tidy we've got an additional velcro strap here which is going to hold the cable and then we've got two options for the cable we can simply push it into these slots at the bottom where when the door is going to go on until everything is going to look nice and tidy alternatively we've got this large rubber grommet down at the bottom of the case so if you don't want to bring the cables through these clips at the front you can bring all your cables directly through this rubber grommet including your power supply cable and then close the door back over again you're going to see the back of the case is going to look really clean and the cables are really nicely organized down at the bottom and again if you're planning on going with a custom Loop you'll be pleased to see we've got a cutout for the drainage port at the rear of the case to remove our other side panel there's a single screw at the top of the case that we need to remove and with the screw the top removed we're simply going to lift this panel off and you can't actually get your hand in at the bottom to lift it off but we do have two little cutouts at the top here you can slip your finger into lift the panel up and away again let me take a look at the back of this panel you'll notice we've got a cutout for our power supplies intake fan but again we've just got mesh no separate dust filter the mesh part of the side panel isn't removable and its presence indicates that you're going to be able to sign mine fans and radiators in the case so in terms of final radiator mounting options at the side of the case it's up to four 120 millimeter fans or up to 360 millimeter radiator again at the top of the case it's up to a 360 millimeter radiator but this time it's only up to three 120 millimeter fans and it is important to say at both the top and at the side you cannot fit 140 millimeter fans or 280 millimeter radiators it's only in multiples of 120. at the bottom of the case you can fit up to three 120 and this time also three 140 millimeter fans and again radiator support is up to 360 but you can also fit a 280 millimeter radiator at the bottom while at the rear of the case is up to 120 millimeter fans or up to 240 millimeter radiator and if you're going with the radiator Mount you can actually remove this mesh panel at the back and then Mount your radiator in the rear compartment where it's going to be hidden behind the mesh door at the back of the case so to remove the mesh panel there's just a single screw at the top then with our screw removed we can simply tilt the panel down and lift away so what fan texts recommend if you're going with fans at the back of the case you can put the mesh panel back on after installing your fans if you're going with the radar obviously you leave it off and you're able to install your radiator in the rear compartment where it's going to look really clean and if I just set two fans into place at the back you're going to see how this is going to work your fans are going to be in the inside of the case your radiator is going to go in the back and then you're going to have space at the top of your tubes so this is going to look really really clean with the radiator hidden in this compartment behind the mesh door at the bottom of the case we've got a removable fan stroke radiator bracket so we just need to loosen it up with a thumb screw at the back and then with the thumb screw removed we can simply pull the bracket towards the front of the case and then we're going to lift it up and away so I'll just put the bracket back into place because I want to show you there's two different options for mounting fans on the bracket where the bracket in its default position if we're to set fans into place they're going to be sitting straight on the bracket Below in our straight up towards the top of the case if we're again to take the bracket out rotate it round and then slide it back into place you'll notice now there's a tilt on the bracket it's tilted downwards towards the front of the case so we're going to send our fans onto the bracket they're going to be sitting at an angle so you're going to get a much better look at the fans looking in from the front of the case so again the fan stroke radiator bracket on the side is removable we've got a thumb screw at the top which we need to remove and once the thumb screw has been removed the bracket can be tilted out and lifted away in terms of motherboard support in the case of this large as you'd expect it's up to eat ATX and if you want to go with the CPR killer the maximum height supported is 185 millimeters at the rear of the case we've got eight horizontal PCI expansion slots and in terms of graphics card support you shouldn't have any problem fitting your graphics card in this case with up to a maximum length of 450 millimeters being supported so another really nice feature we've got is an argb lighting strip above the motherboard and running down the right hand side now these panels as well as having some argb on them they are functional and the fact that they LC help hide the cables plugging in to the motherboard they are removable so the top one we did is simply just push over towards the right hand side and then it can be lifted down and away while to remove the one over at the right hand side of the motherboard there's a thumb screw at the back we need to remove and then with the thumb screw at the back removed we're going to be able to pull this panel down and left out so you can see with the cables removed it is covering these rubber grommets running through to the back of the case so with the bracket in its default position it's designed for up to an ATX motherboard if you're going with an eitx motherboard because it's going to extend further out to the side what you're going to want to do rather than installing the bracket in this position if we turn it around this way here and slide it into place here and then push it up to the top you'll see it covers less of the rubber grommets so it's going to be in a better position for an e ATX motherboard so taking a look at the front side of our case you might notice that it sits quite low towards the table and you might be concerned about airflow and we take a look at the other side you'll realize there was no need to worry at all because we've got absolutely loads of space at this site and the reason for this is because the bottom of the case is actually on an incline so we're taking a look in from the front you can see the incline and I think this is actually going to make the case look really clean because it brings the bottom down at the front but you've still got loads of space at the back for airflow and then again you'd also have the options to have your fans tilted on the bottom of the case to get a really good look at them in terms of a frontal with a two USB type A ports a single type c port and a combined headphone and microphone Jack it is possible to move this i o module to the rear of the case and I'll show you how to do that so to free upper IO module we're going to need to remove the two screws at the bottom so with the screws removed we can push the aisle module down and Pull It Forward to free it up and then we free up the i o cables at the back we should then simply be able to pull the i o module forward to remove it then at the rear of the case we've got this little cover to remove so it's just a matter of squeezing the two ends together from underneath and then we're going to be able to lift the cover off we can then pass our i o cables up from the underside of the cutout and then pass them through this compartment here to the rear of the case they have another cables in place is just a matter of lining the i o module up with the little Clips here and then pushing it into place and then we can secure it into place at the back with the same two screws we removed at the front so that's what the Iowa module looks like on the rear of the case and I personally prefer it at the front so I'm going to put it back to the stock configuration so our case is one of the red dust filter is at the bottom and it can simply be pulled out from the side for cleaning so take a look in the rear compartment our power supply is going to go here at the top we've got plenty of velcro cable strips and cable raceways here to help organize your cables and there looks to be obviously loads of space for cables here so we shouldn't have any trouble with cable management so you can see at the top of the case we've got our dual Channel argb controller so at the top we've got a port which goes to the control buttons on the top of the case I line the button to the top of the case to control this controller we've got two different channels we've got Channel A1 and A2 and B1 and B2 and you can see we've already got something plugged into Channel A1 it's a dual connector on it and as the cables going to the two RGB lighting bar around the motherboard so if we go ahead and unplug the cable from the controller you can see our controller uses jst connectors so if the fans that you're using don't have this connector on it the fan tax fans will work with it you may need an argb to jst cable so we'll put this back into place this and then the final thing to mention is down at the bottom we have an optional port for connecting this controller up to your motherboard so in the case of sensory box you get this cable here we can simply slot it into place in this bottom port and then on the other hand we've got a standard three pin 5 volt argb cable which we plug into an RGB header on your motherboard align your motherboard to control everything that you've plugged in to this controller final thing to mention is don't forget to plug the two SATA cables coming from the controller into your power supply one's labeled Channel a and one's labeled Channel B and these are actually part of the controller so if you don't plug these into your power supply your controller isn't going to work okay so working our way down towards the middle of the case we've got this door here with a captive thumb screw on it so we go ahead and loosen the thumb screw we're going to be able to open up this door so this door here serves two purposes the first is as a cable cover so there's got a space here behind the motherboard for some cables to go into and we've got these little pins here where you're designed to wrap your EPs and a 24 pin cables round helping take the slack away from them at the back of the case for a cleaner look and the other thing that we're going to be able to do is Mount two two and a half inch drives so it's just a simple matter of sliding our driving from the top there we go and then if we close the door we're going to be able to slide another drive into place on the other side and then in terms of securing the drive you can see we've got screw holes here on the side so it's going to be two screws per drive so the door closed I think that mountain solution looks nice and clean and all the cables are going to be organized nicely behind the door we've got another door at the bottom of the case and again we've got a capital thumb screw at the top which we need to listen to get the door defog down so on the left side of this panel we're going to be able to mount up to a total of four two and a half inch drives while on the right side it's a single three and a half inch drive if you prefer you can mount to three and a half inch drives one on each side so we've got a little separate bracket here which we can listen with a thumb screw and then with a subscript listened up we can simply slide this bracket away so all you're going to Simply do is set your drive here so you can have your two three and a half inch drives your three and a half inch drive with two two and a half inch drives and then if we look at the other side of the bracket all the holes are labeled depending on what you're going for so just be a simple matter of then screwing these drives in from the back so once you've got your two two and a half inch drives installed here screwed in from the back you're going to take this little plate and you're going to put your next two and a half inch drives on here again with the holes in the back to screw them into place and then once they're screwed in all you're simply going to do is slot this back down again and then you're going to have your four drives secured here with a space for one and three and a half inch drive here if you don't want to install a three and a half inch drive and you just want to install up to four two and a half inch ssds rather than having the four drives sitting on top of each other you do have another option so you can install your two drives onto here and then you can take this little pit with your two drives installed on it slot it into here and then secured into the back with a thumb screw so it's just going to spread your drives over a little bit more space but obviously if you're going with a bigger three and a half inch drive on this side you're not going to be able to mind this place here so this whole bracket is removable and that will give us better access during the build process to the ports of the motherboard so to do that all we need to do is put it towards the front of the case and lift away so this is everything that comes in the case accessory box so we've got a nice color user manual we've got all of our screws individually sorted in the plastic box we've got plenty of cable ties we've got two cover plates I'll show you how they need to use these in a minute we've got the argb cable for syncing up the cases built in argb controller with your motherboard we've got a GPU support bracket and a cleaning cloth so next thing I want to do is show you how these little cover plates work so the design if you're going with three fans at the side you're going to have a gap at the top and a gap at the bottom two problems with that Gap and one it doesn't look very clean and the second is it's going to potentially affect the airflow with the case because you're going to have large gaps without any fans on them so these little cover plates have magnets on the back and they're designed just to Simply Be slotted at the top and at the bottom so I think you'll agree this looks so much better the next thing I want to do is show you how to install our GPU support bracket so we look at this side cover we've got two screws here which we're going to fix the bracket too so all I've done is secure the bracket together with a little thumb screw at the bottom you'll notice we've got another hole here so we could have this hole secured with this one straight over here and you've got a smaller GPU and then all it is is a simple matter of selling the bracket onto here at the side and putting two thumb screws in here so what you're going to want to do is just put the thumb screws in loose first of all so you're going to be able then to slide this up to where it provides support to your graphics card and then tighten up the thumb screws holding it in place likewise in this bracket you're going to leave on fairly loose at the start once you've got your graphics card in then slide it into place up against the graphics card and tighten this thumb screw to hold it in place we are now ready to start working our motherboard and we're going to be installing our CPU the back click for our CPU killer our m.tssd and a ram before we put the motherboard into the case to open the socket for our CPU cutter we need to push the lever down and right and then bring it all the way to the top and then we can open up the socket cover we can then set our CPU join into the socket and line it up with The Notches at the top and at the bottom and making sure the text is the correct way up once it's in the circle it's just a little wiggle from side to side to check it's properly seated and then we can go ahead and close the socket cover down again now with the Intel motherboards I much prefer to get the black bit of plastic to pop off at this stage by pushing down here and then what we're going to do is set this in our motherboard box for a safe keeping and then to secure the CPU all we need to do is close the lever down again so our motherboard has five m.2 SSD slots Behind These heatsinks the top one is a Gen 5 slot whereas the bottom for our Gen4 slots we've got a Gen 4 drive to install so we could install in the top slot the only slight problem with this is it reassures PC aliens with other top pcie slots for the graphics card so we install a drive in the top slot it reduces the PCI aliens from 16 to each for our graphics card that might be a sacrifice you prefer to take if you've got a Gen 5 drive and you're going to benefit from the improved speeds but because we've only got a Gen 4 Drive we're not going to get any advantage using the Gen 5 slot so it's better for us to use one of the Gen 4 slots below now the four Gen 4 slots below aren't created equally three of the slot School via the chipset whereas with this bottom one here goes directly to the CPU so this is the one we should install our driving next we can insert our drive into the slot Wetland dine in the place we can then flatten our drive down and we've got this little clip here which we close over is going to hold our Drive in place if you're using the motherboard from new you'll have some plastic protection on the back of the heatsink that you're going to need to remove I've already used this motherboard for a previous build so you can see the plastic protection has been removed so that we can then return our heatsink next we've got our Ram to install as we've only got two sticks we're going to installed in the second and four slot along from the CPU so we can open the clips on the slots then it's just a matter of lining our Ram up with these slots once we're happy everything's lined up it's just some firm pressure to the round and it's going to clip into place and then same thing with our second stick line it up with a slot and again once we're happy it's all lined up so the firm pressure that's going to clip into place next we've got the back plate for our CPU killer to install so we're going to want to make sure all these pins are pulled to the either setting and then it should just be a matter of lining it up with the holes in the back of the motherboard and then we've got one of these little spacers label 1700 to go onto Each corner we can then set the motherboard into the case line that up with the standoffs at the back and you'll notice that once we get the middle stand up into place it's going to help hold the motherboard we can then secure the motherboard to the case with nine screws from the case accessory box the next thing to do is get our case cables plugged in and our HD audio cable is going to go into this header down the bottom left hand side of the motherboard so we can bring the header through the cutout at the bottom and we're going to plug it in with the HD audio text facing down the way and then we'll pull the access cable through to the bottom our front panel connectors are going to go to this header on the bottom right hand side of the motherboard and it's the pins over to the left hand side that we're going to want to use and phanteks have combined the cables into one single cable for us to plug in and it is important that we plugged it in with the par switch text facing up the way just a matter of lining things up and pushing into place and then we can pull the access cable through to the back our USB 3.0 cable is going to go to this header here so we can bring the cable through the cutout line it up with the header and push into place and pull the access cable through to the back just above that we've got a front panel type c header so we'll bring our cable through the cutout line it up with the header and push into place and again pull the access cable through to the back we're not ready to install our power supply and I've gone ahead and plugged in the cables that we're going to need so if I've done a 24 pen cable two yet pin EPS cables to write additional power to your CPU and I plugged in this adapter cable that I've got it goes into two of the pcie adapters on the power supply and has a 12 volt Type R cable on the other side if you don't have an ATX 3.2 power supply or your power supply it doesn't have one of these special adapters what you can do is use the adapter that comes with the graphics card it's got a 12 volt Type R connector on one side and on the other side it's 28 pin pcie cables so we just plug in the standard pcie cables to the back of your power supply and then you would plug two separate cables into the end of this adapter it's important you don't just use one cable from the power supply and plug in the 2DS etn connectors into here you need two separate pcie cables coming from different ports in your power supply into each end of these adapters this obviously isn't going to look as good which is the reason why I picked up this extra cable and this is is a really expensive power supply and when the new connector came out it was great that be quiet had offered this special cable that's going to let you continue to use the power supply with nice cables the other cable that I plugged in is a SATA cable although we're not installing any SATA drives our argb controller is going to need SATA power so that's the reason I've installed it so you can then set our power supply into place at the top of the case and slide it all the way to the back now importantly this is our power supplied intake fan so we're going to want to have it facing out the way so for most power supplies you're going to use for the larger screws from the case accessory box to secure the power supply to the case the problem with this b-cloud power supply is it's a really high-end power supply and they use a lot of custom bits to it so the screw thread doesn't quite match whenever I try to screw it in it's not going in and we've got these special thumb screws that come with the power supply so I'm going to use it so next thing to do is get our parts supply cables plugged in so our two yet pin EPS cables are going to go into these headers at the top left of the motherboard so we can bring the cables through the cutout line them up with a header and push into place and then we can pull the access cable through to the back our 24 pin cable is going to go into this header here so we'll bring it through the cutout line it up with the header and push into place and again we'll just pull the access cable through to the back then at the back of the case we've got the two standard cables coming from our RGB controller that need to plug into the saddle cable coming from our power supply so one slider shimmed up with this stitches I don't think we'll have enough length on our 12 volt high power cable because our power supply is all the way at the top and this is such a tall case this is the cable pulled as tight as I can get it at the back and with quite a big graphics card so the 12 volt high power connector is going to be about here and they actually get this turned around because it is quite stiff and is going to be almost impossible so I don't think this cable is going to work and what I'm probably going to need to do is use some cable extensions so the only cable extensions I have for the 12v type hard cable are actually in white so if I'm going to be using them it makes sense to change out the 24 pin cables and also the EPS cables so I'll go ahead and do that now okay so that's the way cable extensions are added in and we're not going to have any problem now with our 12v Type R cable getting up to our graphics card and in fact it's going to look even cleaner because rather than bringing it into the colors out the side and coming across the graphics card or the Lockwood angle we're going to be able to actually bring it through the bottom cut out so this is going to bring this back to the back of the case for now so next thing for us to install our case fans and they come in two different versions so this is the standard fan where the fan blades around the right way and with most standard fans if you want to have your fan set to intake in the case you have to reverse it and the big problem with that is the back of this fan being on display looks awful compared to the front of the fan blades my fan texts have thought about this and they offer these fans in two different versions the regular ones of the fan base the normal way round and you've also got these reversed fan blades so the reverse ones this would be set at the intake on the side of the case we'll be bringing her in but you would also have the good side of the fan facing into the case so we're going to start off by installing the fans on the side and we're going to have four of these set the intake okay so the first thing for us to do is to connect our fan up together you'll notice on the side of the fan we've got some argb effects here and on this side this is where the fans are actually going to connect together you can pick out that orientation because you've got these little lines which are going to all together from one fan to the next fan so you're going to want to make sure you line them up this way round the other important thing to note there's a little sticker here which tells us this is the input side of the fan so we're going to have to have an input lined up with an output on the next fan so if we look here we've got little indentations here now we take another fan you've got little bits that protrude so what we're going to want to do is line the two fans up together and what we'll do is we'll have an input here output input I put and you're able to connect up to four fans together so I'm just going to line four fans up so what I'm going to do now is just remove the little bits of paper towel on the switch side is the input then we're going to use the subtle connector to join the fans together so it's just a matter of lighting the fans up at the side and then pushing the connector into place and then just working our way along making sure we've got the fans lined up correctly and then just a little bit of pressure to clip it into place on the other side of the fans you'll notice there's no actual connectors between the fans so we've got these plain plastic clips that we can push into place foreign so the big advantage of us joining all our fans together is that we're actually going to need to plug one cable into one of the fans and that's going to allow us to control up to four fans with this one cable now it is really important that you plug the cable into the section of the fan labeled input and not the output on the end of the fan if you've already pulled off the stickers and you can't remember which was which the input side is the side with a little indentations in it so all what I want to do is take this end of the connector and push it all the way in at the side here and then all we need to do is rotate it round and it's going to lock into place so the cable that we have plugged in has two different connectors coming from it the first is the four pin pwm connector which we need to plug into our motherboard and that'll let our motherboard control the speed of the fans the other cable is for the argb lighting effects on the fans and on the end of it we've got a jst connector so fan takes to use these and if you've got a phantix Fan Hub like we do in our case we're going to be able to plug it directly in to The Fan Hub the other nice thing this we've got an additional connection here so we are going to be able to daisy chain more devices into it if you don't have somewhere to plug in a jst connector that's not a problem because with the triple pack of the fans you get this little adapter that plugs into here and then we've got a standard 3 pin 5 volt argb connector and you can plug that into an RGB header on your motherboard for this particular build I'm going to be plugging directly into our cases controller so I'm not going to install this so fan types have gone online and making these fans look really clean so they have provided little covers to cover over the screw holes so if you're installing this on a radiator and you're going to be screened down into the radiator obviously install the fans onto the radiator first of all before moving the covers on because otherwise you're not going to be able to screw it in we're going to be screwing in from the back so we can go ahead and put these screw hole covers into place so we've got the double ones for where the fans are joined together it's just a matter of pushing them down into place and then we've got these single ones to go on at the ends contacts are also really Keen to make sure all the corners look nice and clean as well so we've got these blank plastic Corner plates for the ends as you're not going to be putting a fan cable onto so it's just a matter of again lining it up out the side and then moving it around to the side and clipping into place and then we can repeat that for the other two corners so that's our fans looking really clean from every angle and we've just got this dual cable coming from them we can then set our fans onto the fan bracket so as you'd expect the fans do come with the standard fan screws but as well in the Box fan ticks also include radiator screws so this is going to be really useful depending on how you're planning on using the fans so we can go ahead and secure the fans to the bracket using the standard fan screws so just before I set our side fan bracket into place I'm going to pass the cables coming from it through to the back of the case I'm then going to set our side bracket up into place and then as I push it backwards I'm just going to make sure I keep the cables tight and pull them all the way through to the back and then we can replace the thumb screw at the top so that are three reverse fans to our bottom fan bracket and setting them up is exactly the same as the four fans at the back so we're just going to slide the bracket into place at the bottom and then push towards the back of the case to secure it into place and you'll see I have gone with the decision to install the bracket on an angle because ankle is going to look better and then we can secure the bracket into place with a thumb screw and then going to Route the cables coming from the bottom fans through to the back I've got two standard phones set as exhaust at the back so the first thing to do is pass our fan cables through to the back and then we can set the fans up into place we can then secure the fans into place at the back then we can set the rear fan Grille back into place and we'll secure it into place with the screw we removed at the start this cable then I'm just going to root through to the back and with a little cable tie down Point here at the back I'm just going to use one of the included cable ties to secure it we've got three system fan headers down at the bottom of the motherboard so I'm just going to bring our pwm cables through and get them plugged into the headers at the bottom of the motherboard and then we can pull the excess cable through to the back and I'm going to plug the RGB cable coming from our rear fans into Channel B1 on our hub and then plug our side fans into Channel B2 so that's going to leave our bottom fans into Channel A2 we're now ready to start working on our IO and it comes with these plain black fans but fantas has sent me loads of these d3120 fans so I'm planning to use these on the radiator instead now because we actually have absolutely loads of space at the top of the case these fans here aren't going to be wasted I'm actually going to install them in a push-pull configuration which is actually going to fill the space at the top of the case so that will better but the first step for us is to put three of these regular fans onto the radiator so these fans are really quite thick they're much thicker than the ones that came with the io so you're going to need the radiator screws that comes with the fantax fans to reach through the fans and get to the radiator if you try to use the ones that come with the io they won't actually reach the radiator foreign the standard black fans we're going to attach on the other side of the radiator but we're going to save this to when we're putting the io into the case next we're going to do some work on our pump and it's got this argb cover on it which is magnetically attached and we can simply pull it away so next we're going to dig out the Intel bracket to the pump if you get this color from new you're going to have some thermal paste and some plastic protection over the cold plate and to install the bracket you're going to need to remove the plastic protection so if you're doing this from new what I would recommend doing is a do this step once you've installed the radiator to the top of the case so that you're not going to contaminate the thermal paste on the cool plate it's much easier for me to show you here you're going to get a better view of it with me doing it on the table and because I don't do any thermal paste pre-applied and it's not going to be a problem for me so the first thing to do is set one of our Intel brackets into place we're then going to take one off the screws which we set it into place it will attach magnetically we can pop one on the other side and then it's just a matter of screwing these into place then same thing on the other side we're just going to set our bracket into place so now what I'm going to do is set our deep cool fans onto the radiator just setting them into place where they would line up with the holes in the radiator and again I'm making sure the cables are all coming out towards where the radiator is going to be at the back of the case there we go and then included with our AIO we get this triple splitter cable so what I'm going to do is insert that one of the cables coming from each of the fans into the triple splitter cable so that's going to leave us one four pin pwm connector coming from all three of the deep cool fans which we're going to plug into your CPU fan header we're going to have another pwm cable coming from the phantax fans the other side of the radiator and our motherboard has a CPU opt header which will run the fans along the fitting fan curve as the CPU fan header so we're just going to plug it into the CPU opt header and we're not going to have any RGB Lighting on the Deep cool fans the airgb lighting on our fantax fans is the same cable we've already plugged into our argb Hub and we're just going to plug this into our Kia sub so then we consider IO when to place at the top of the case and then what we're going to need to do is pass one of the long radiator screws down through our typical fans and then get it screwed into the radiator beneath so I've actually used the fantech screws rather than using the screws that came with the i o because there is quite a big size difference between the two of them and the ones with the eye were actually Too Short I'll show you this if I take one of these screws out and then if I take one of the deep filler screws and pass it through you'll see that it actually it goes all the way in and it doesn't lock at all into the radiator they're just too short to use two other things to point out I'm using a manual screwdriver and the reason for this is I need to be able to feel that if I've got the screw into the hole or not and the other thing is I put screws in it all Loosely first of all so I've still got a bit of adjustment on this and I can position the radar exactly where I want it to be in the case and then I can tighten up all the screws there's a little cutout through to the back just behind here so I'm just going to rid all the fan cables up and through to the back so in terms of passing the cables through to the back we've got a nice little cutout here which helps we can pass the cable up from the main compartment through to here pull it tight and then pass it through here and be able to rid it out to the back so you might have noticed a problem during the cable management and that is despite me putting these screws all the way in the radiator is still mobile at the top of the case and the fantech screws that I have used are just very slightly too long so these screws are 36 millimeters in length the Deep little ones that I used are 30 millimeters and they are far too short I've also tried 32 millimeter screws which I have which are also just a little bit too short as well so some were probably in about that 34 35 millimeter length is what you're going to want to use so what I'm planning on doing is I find four washers and I'm going to be using these on the 4M screws to hopefully hold things in place so there we go with the washers in place now the radiator is completely fixed at the top so if you were planning on doing this particular combination you could either get yourself a set of washers and use these screws that are included with the phantax fans or what you could do is probably pick up probably either 34 or 35 millimeter radiator screws next I'm going to add some thermal paste to the center of the CPU if you're getting the i o from new it will have some pre-applied to the cold plate so there's no need to add more so a couple things to point out before we install our pump on the motherboard it's important we installed the tubes at the bottom so the argb plate goes on the right way around and one of the things I like to do is take the little cables and wrap them around these brackets making sure they're away from the cold plate and bringing them up towards the top of the case and I just means this cable is organized a little bit later I'm also going to set the argb cable up that comes from our argb cover and then we can line our pump up with the bracket we installed on the motherboard earlier on what we're then going to want to do is get a thumb screw onto Each corner and then just before we tighten everything up fully I just want to make sure that none of our cables cut onto the Coldplay which they're definitely not and then we can go ahead and tighten each of the thumb screws in turn and then go to set our energy cover into place and just pulling the cable through as we set it into place yeah there we go and again if you're getting the color from new you'll have some plastic retraction here that you need to remove then I'm going to root the cables up towards the top of the motherboard the argb cable I'm going to pass through to the back well the three pin fan can I turn to plug into the AO header at the top of the motherboard and then I'm just going to tuck the excess Cable in behind next Arrow pump header we've got our CPU fan header so I'm going to bring the triple splitter cable that we had our deep cool fans on and plug it into this header and then pull the excess cables through to the back and our CPU opt header is just beside our EPS cables so I'm going to bring the cable coming from our phantax fans on the radiator through line things up with the header and push into place and then we'll pull the access cable through to the back and then going to take the RGB cable coming from the fans in the radiator and plug it onto the daisy chainable connector coming from our bottom fans so then we've got the RGB cable coming from our pump to plug in we've got two options we can plug it directly into an argb header on our motherboard if we want to plug it into our controller we're going to need to get an adapter now unfortunately I do have one of the adapters and I'll put a link to this one in the description so we've got the plug on it that's going to go into our controller and on the other end we've got two standard three pin 5 volt argb headers so all we need to do is line the cable coming up with this adapter cable and push into place and then the other end I'm going to plug into one of the digital connectors from the fans we've already plugged into the controller next we can return the argb cable covers around the motherboard and we can then secure it in place with a thumb screw at the back when I already installed a graphics card we're going to need to remove the second and third expansion slot cover from the top I've also brought a 12 volt Type R cable through the cutout at the bottom of the case because once our graphics card is installed we're going to have less access to bring it through and I'm also going to set our GPU support bracket into place because our graphics card is so big we think we're only going to have to use the bottom hole so then we can press this little button on the motherboard to make sure the top pcie slot is open and then it's just a matter of aligning our graphics card up with the top slot so our top PCI expansion slot bracket has just prevented me getting the graphics card in so I'm going to take the graphics card out and remove the bracket so there we go that's just lined up with the slot noise so it's just some firm pressure to the graphics card and it's going to clip into place and then we can secure the graphics card into place with the two thumb screws we removed earlier on and then at this stage I'm just going to reinsert the top expansion slot cover so then I'm just going to slide our GPU support bracket up to where it's providing support for the graphics card and then tighten the thumb screw at the bottom and then going to slide the other thumb screw up to the graphics card and then tighten the thumb screw at the bottom as well and then we can plug our 12 volt high power cable into the graphics card making sure we get a nice satisfying click and then we've got some cable Combs on the cable to help organize it okay last thing to do is some cable managements we're going to be able to get our panels back on again foreign [Music] foreign [Music] foreign [Music] [Music] with higher turn light and the combination of this case with the brand new phantix fans looks absolutely amazing combined with the airgb effects that are built in to the case I'm also really delighted with the new graphics card it's absolutely massive and this is a perfect case for it and it looks so well in the middle of it and in fact all the hardware that I've picked for this build goes so well together and I wouldn't change any of it I think probably the only thing I would change is the white cable extensions I think black ones will look better but we were really stuck with the length on the 12 volt high power cable and that's the reason I've gone with those but it's good for me to pack up these issues during the build so that you can avoid them so you'll see I've gone ahead and set the PC up the reason I've done that is this video is already long enough and I made a previous step-by-step build guide setting up this motherboard so what I'll do is I'll put a link to that video in the description if you don't know how to install Windows the drivers get the RGB software up and running enter the pan update the bias and adjust the buyer sellings I've made a previous video on us and I'll put a link to that video in the description so I've gone ahead and dim the lights to give you a look at the RGB effects coming from our cases built-in controller so as I've mentioned there's a button that lets you switch between the two channels I've got both the channels set up exactly the same way the button then beside the channel is for Speed so if I go ahead and press it you'll notice that two lots of the fans so the fans on the side and the fans at the rear of the case have changed their speed but they're on the same colors the I've got the fans at the bottom and the fans at the top plugged into the same channel as well you'll also notice the speed of the lighting effects on the io is also sped up because I plugged it into the same channel as the fans on the side and the fans on the rear so if I keep pressing the speed button again it's going to start to slow down again we've got the slowest movement here and if I press it again it goes to static the next button along is for the color and at the moment I'm in the two-tone mode so if I press the color button it's going to cycle through the various two-tone colors that we have [Music] and that's us back to the start again and then the final button is for mode foreign [Music] to the bottom and the fans at the top I'm going to have to press the channel button and then any of the other buttons I press will change those channels so let's go ahead and change the mode and you'll notice the fans at the bottom and the fans at the top have then changed you'll also notice the RGB lighting bars around the motherboard have also changed color because I have them plugged into the same channel as the fans at the bottom and the fans at the top obviously you can configure these any way that you want so we'll press the buttons again and give you a look at that [Music] so now we're on the static colors I'll give you just a look at those as well [Music] if you want to turn off the lighting you need to hold the mode button in for two seconds I'll do that and you see that's turned the lighting off on the particular channel that we're on and then if I press the mode button again it's going to turn the lighting back on the only function that seems to be missing for me is the ability to control both channels at once because what I'm having to do is adjust the settings on one channel and then go and replicate that on the other channel I've tried all combinations of holding the mode button then pressing it multiple times but all it seems to really do is switch from one channel to the other and there doesn't seem to be a way to control both channels at once there may well be a way to do it but I don't seem to be able to find the way to do it so if you know how to do it leave me a comment and let me know how it works so what I'm going to do now is I'm going to do some thermal testing and then I'm going to be back with the case review and I'm going to tell you what I thought of the phantax mv7 if you made it to this stage in the video I think I can probably give you a little spoiler alert I absolutely love this case but don't tell everybody else they're going to have to sit to the end of the case review to find that out so hopefully you have enjoyed this video if you have please remember to give it a thumbs up and if you're not currently subscribed to the Channel please hit the Subscribe Button as well thanks for watching [Music] foreign [Music]

Channel: Christopher Flannigan

Views: 66,104

Keywords: how to build a pc, how to build a gaming pc, gaming pc, gaming computer, budget gaming pc, gaming pc build, pc build, how to build a computer, build a computer, Phanteks, building a pc, pc build guide, beginners guide, step by step beginners guide, personal computer, build personal computer, budget gaming pc build, how to build a gaming computer, build a gaming computer, pc gaming, streaming, editing pc build, RTX 4070, 13700K, Phanteks NV7, Phanteks D30-120, Build Phanteks

Id: sOkU9JJaMOY

Length: 48min 44sec (2924 seconds)

Published: Sat Apr 29 2023