Part 1 of 2 - Chevy Cruze - Bad Head Gasket - How to remove and replace.

hey everybody chris here from three day weekend i got a good one for you today 2015 chevy cruze we're gonna do the head gasket in it today um i was working on the turbo headband turbo we put it all back together and i had awful smoke coming out the back turns out it wasn't just a turbo see the exhaust port on number one see how it's wet two is dry three is dry before it's dry that's a bad sign so we have a bad head gasket actually i pressure tested the system through the coolant and you can actually hear coolant coming out through the head gasket into that cylinder ignore this turbo that was from the last video i was just doing some testing with it um check out the other one you can see how to get that off so if you're anything like me you want it done right the first time so you have to do it a second time that's why i'm going to be following the service manual today i'll show you every step of the way i'll time lapse what i can filling in on other things that i might not be able to record so let's do it [Music] so i'm already in a little bit because of the turbo job like i said watch the other video for that couple quick easy things first battery disconnect it 10 millimeter that's the negative just get that out of the way pop this cover off get that out of the way this is your coil pack a couple of t30s pull that oh and unplug it pull that out of the way which i can't do with one hand there we go and pull your spark plugs out those are 5 8. you have to take the air box out which once you disconnect that pull off this wire float this pipe and then just pull straight up and it'll come right out need to remove this pipe which goes to the turbocharger over around and into the intake [Music] need to disconnect the intake from the throttle body just going to turn that after i pull off this connector here [Music] hey sorry to interrupt real quick there's two different ways to do it from this point there's a way i'm going to show you in the video which is the way the service manual recommends and that is completely removing the intake manifold from the vehicle you can also get away with just loosening the six bolts uh and then pushing the whole thing back i'll show you here real quick you see i'm loosening the six bolts these are the ones i'm talking about i'll show you a little more detail in those later and then i'm just pushing it back and it leaves enough space that you can actually get the intake manifold uh off the head so you can get the the head out so two different ways um i will indicate which one is optional if you're going to remove or if you're not going to remove the intake manifold from the car i'll just put a little optional or something up here in the corner um otherwise if you're gonna do it the way the service manual recommends and remove the intake manifold from the vehicle just follow right along and that's what we're gonna do all right back to the video next is the evap plug connector that's our map sensor plug next is fuel injector plug i'm going to try to show you an injector four of these have to come off we're gonna use a screwdriver to reach down in and pull that metal clip back both sides just a little bit once you have that clip off this will pull up make sure you grab that clip that one fell off [Music] just putting these clips all the way back on so that they don't fall off while i'm working on something else two more things you need to disconnect this plug right here that's the turbocharger wastegate solenoid and back here is this pipe which is clipped to the back of the intake just disconnect that disconnect this line and then remove it from this bracket now we're going over the fuel lines fuel rail take off that cap i'm gonna put a rag down and relieve the pressure the cap back on so i don't lose it next is the actual fuel connector you're going to need the special tools for that that's just the safety clip get that out of the way not to go find the right collar to push up on that disconnect the fuel line i use these fuel line disconnect tools available at harbor freight this particular line 3 8. disconnect this tube just pinch and pull next we are taking off six of the intake bolts one there there are two right there two um right there and one more on the end [Music] [Music] [Music] it is out now you do not have to completely remove this intake you just disconnect it and set it back so it's out of the way but i wanted even more space by doing so there were a couple of clips in the bottom that were really hard to get to but i had to disconnect there too but there it is on to the next next up is just some wiring get it out of the way uh pretty much everything in here i'm gonna disconnect these plugs move this tray get this all out so i can get this cover off [Music] back to the other side going to disconnect these coolant lines and this plug for the o2 sensor [Music] [Music] got all the connectors including the one way down here the only thing holding this on is this ground wire so i will be disconnecting that and then that whole harness should move out of the way that's everything on this side coolant line coolant line plugs the bleed bleed hose this ground i just put the bolt back in all these wires next is the drive belt which in order to take the drive belt off you have to pull the engine mount which is ridiculous but i'm gonna get the belt off first uh and then pull that engine mount so to do that i've got an eleven millimeter six point and i'm going on the tensioner there and i am turning it clockwise and you'll see the spring down there when i do it relaxes and allows me to get the belt off we need to remove the engine mount which are six bolts one two three four five six and of course do that we have to support the engine so i just grabbed my jack piece of wood under the oil pan put pressure on it i wasn't trying to lift it just putting pressure now i will take out the engine mount [Music] [Music] next is the water pump pulley probably would have been easier to take that out before i took the belt off to hold it in place but live and learn right i'll pop that off real quick the manual is very specific about three bolts to remove specifically ones this one this one and this outer one underneath [Music] so those are the three bolts one of them is different this one from down below and this one from up top are the same and this one is different now let's put the engine mount back on [Music] [Music] next is the valve cover bunch of eight millimeter screws all the way around [Music] [Music] need to remove the tire and the wheel well so we can get to the crankshaft [Music] so now we need to set it on top dead center there is a mark right here and this has to line up with it and you need to turn it clockwise to do so i've got that lined up so now you have to remove this plug for your special tool this is a t55 to take that cap off be sure when you take this off you account for that washer let me introduce you to the special tools reason i picked this up on amazon it was relatively inexpensive we are going to use this and that port i just opened up to set top dead center and that will keep it from moving around it should go in pretty easy without binding if it binds your means you're not quite there so you might just move it back and forth a little bit i'm gonna make sure that that is in all the way i put pressure on it move the engine back and forth ever so slightly and it went all the way in and you can feel it how much tolerance there is so it's right in the center and the pin is installed i'm going to remove the camshaft actuator solenoids next two bolts there two bolts there once take the bolts out keep it parallel turn this one counterclockwise and it comes out this one you turn it clockwise and it comes out [Music] we have to remove the timing chain tensioner plug which is very difficult to see it's down in the timing cover right there that torque spec that plug is a t45 [Music] just like the other plug this also has a washer this part gets a little complicated of our two pins we have we're going to use this one we're going to put a 21-millimeter wrench on the camshaft pulling pressure on it and while holding that pressure slide this pin in through this hole pretty snug fit and keep working it back and forth until it goes all the way in now it's all the way in and i have slack on my timing chain need to remove the sprocket bolts those are 24 millimeter same time we're going to hold it steady with a 21-mm wrench [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] it's time to take off the head bolts we're gonna follow a pattern and do it a little bit at a time i'll show you the pattern first it goes like this one two three four five 6 7 8 9 10 11 12. we're going to turn each one 90 degrees then we're going to turn each one 180 degrees and then we'll take them off now these bolts on these chevys are inverse torques and up until now with the eight and a ten i've been able to sneak them out but these head bolts are going to be torqued on there tight so i'm gonna actually need to use an inverse torque they are e 12. [Music] four more bolts to take out one there one there one here one here there's one more on this side i didn't see underneath this hose that guy right there with all those bolts out the head is now loose and can be removed a couple of pointers when you are ready to remove this lift it up slightly and slide it toward the transmission because your pin for the timing chain needs to come through this cover before you lift it up here is the gasket do you want your pies and that's what it looks like with a head gasket off you can see my problem was this cylinder that is coolant that would explain why the exhaust port was so wet everything looks okay on the head but it was clearly leaking here's the cylinder head i'm going to clean this up myself y'all this gunk off of it all the oil this old gasket i'm just going to measure see if it's flat but in order to do that i want to make sure it's nice and clean so to clean it i'm just going to use some red scuffing pad and some brake clean and lightly rub it to get all that gasket material off [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] so [Music] [Music] [Music] [Music] you're allowed 0.05 millimeters lengthwise here to here and .03 transversely and this one all measures in spec so i have my feeler gauge at 0.05 i've got a rough straight edge just for demonstration and the idea being if you can stretch it all the way from one side to the other you shouldn't be able to fit a 0.05 in that gap same thing if you go top to bottom 0.03 shouldn't shouldn't be able to fit through there which it doesn't on this one indicating that it is within tolerance hey sorry to interrupt again real quick you see me measuring and checking and everything seems to be okay i ended up putting that head back on the car and it did the exact same thing so i took the head back off ran it down to the machine shop he put it on a pressure tester and he found as i'm going to show you right here a leak internally between the exhaust side and the coolant side so that was the root cause of this problem so i guess what i'm saying is once you have it off just take it to a machine shop have them check it over it really didn't cost that much and it saves a lot of headache down the road so that concludes today's video on how to remove this cylinder head be sure to subscribe to the channel because in our next video i'm going to install the cylinder head back into the engine you're going to want to check that out in the meantime thanks for watching be sure to give us a like and we'll see you next time [Music] [Music] you

Channel: 3Day Weekend

Views: 176,639

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Id: s5cyiHJFS3A

Length: 28min 31sec (1711 seconds)

Published: Fri Mar 05 2021