Painting TWO Ballistus Dreadnoughts - Airbrush vs Paintbrush (Leviathan Warhammer 40k 10th Edition)

lots of videos here on YouTube say things like I'm using an airbrush for this but you can use a brush if that's all you've got and that got me thinking can you really in today's video I'll be painting up two of the new ballista's dreadnoughts from the Leviathan box one of them using an airbrush and the other one with a good old-fashioned paintbrush at each step in the process we can take a look and see which one we prefer wish me luck because they're being painted up as lamenters just like the captain in my last video which means there can only be bad things on the horizon I put out a poll on YouTube as I was interested in seeing how many people have access to an airbrush for priming and base coating their models at the time of filming paintbrush has a lead but not as dominant as I might have expected I started out without an airbrush for a long time though I will say that I haven't looked back since getting one for things like base coats on large models in particular the thought of painting up a model as big as this Dreadnought now without my airbrush as a crutch does fill me with Terror however let's start from our comfort zone which is going to be rattle can priming this has to be by far the most common method for priming your Miniatures I create my own spray stick with masking tape and a cardboard insert I have a whole stack of these for priming purposes pull the tape across the cardboard and flip it over to stick to the other side with this done it's out into the garden to spray them I'm using wraith bone spray for this the method is pretty foolproof just make sure you shake the can plenty before using and also keep it about 30 centimeters away from the model and continuously moving to get a nice even layer wraith bone spray was a game changer when it came out as it's so much better than the old White Scar spray which would frequently come out grainy and horrid even in nice weather conditions it was a beautiful sunny day here in London but as any lamenta knows the sunshine is only temporary for the priming on the airbrush Dreadnought I used Vallejo white airbrush primer this stuff again needs a good shake before use and also needs to be applied from a little distance away if the paint is looking too wet on the model there's a couple of things to think about you're either too close blasting too much air out of your compressor or you've lingered on the same area for too long adjust these as required to get a nice even layer for me it's keeping moving across the model that I need to remember to do you can always come back in with a second layer if the first layer hasn't quite got the coverage you want now in this priming step I have to give the advantage to the rattle can for ease of use you can just head into any outside area and start spraying big caveat here if you don't have an outside area or if you live somewhere with changeable weather like here in the lovely United Kingdom it can be difficult sometimes to use a spray can for priming purposes as they don't really work when it's wet or excessively cold you don't have this problem with an airbrush the primer goes a lot further and you're also not having to spend money on wasteful rattle cans all the time so far it's a tight race with those caveats taken into account I think the airbrush is probably probably just edging ahead on the priming step let's now move on to base coats with the airbrush this is a breeze a mixed flat yellow with airbrush thinner and I'm even using a pipette to avoid clogging my airbrush like a chump spray this all over leave to dry and repeat until you've got a nice even layer you won't get full opacity in a single coat here so make sure your patients spray the first layer leave it to dry and then come back in for a second pass because yellow notoriously has Port coverage this took me about three coats over the primer if you're liking the video so far please take a moment to hit the like button it really helps out with the algorithm stuffs and also subscribe to the channel if you haven't already so that you can know when I decide to inflict new Horrors like painting yellow without an airbrush on myself onto the paintbrush and it's time for our first lamentas Horror Story do you remember when contrast paints came out a little while ago so I just realized that contrast paints launched in 2019 which is four years ago so I feel absolutely ancient everyone said these one layer Wonder paints would be the solution to all our problems me being The Optimist that I am I thought this was the perfect project to give them a chance I mixed my e and in yellow with about 50 50 contrast medium as I had heard that it would be quite potent just using the color by itself and then I applied it all over the model I'm a little bit worried about all that Cooling and it's not very even and yeah that looks not great for me I've always had a bit of a struggle with contrast paints as the texture and the feel of it when it's applied to the model doesn't really sit right with me you also lose a lot of control over the paint when applying it in this method and I don't need any help losing control of my paint as I do that with perfectly thinned acrylic so let alone with contrast Brother Do You Love Me Be Strong Clarence for the emperor but I think you may need a bath the sacred oil is a purification otherwise known as a tupperware full of Bio strip were applied to cleanse the failed contrast paint I then reapplied rape bone spray and went out for a little bit of lunch when this happened [Music] this paint job is definitely cursed that was until I was recommended a video by some guys on the blood angels chat from my local Club they recommended a video from brush stroke painting guides on painting yellow armor this gave me the get up and go to give the armor another try so this time I started on just a shoulder pad to be sure I applied a mix of dark sand and off-white to replicate games workshops us shabti bone I then applied agrax Earth shade around all the rivets and recesses around the armor next was an edge highlight with off-white and I'm pretty happy with how that's looking what's the next step contrast paints paint but it's not like before this time it's being thinned down and used as a glaze I thinned it down a lot with contrast medium about three to one contrast medium to paint and then glazed it over the surface this takes a couple of passes but in the end it's much cleaner than the standard contrast method I will say that the tutorial I was watching was on a Space Marine backpack which is much smaller and I will say that by applying it to the Dreadnought there are some areas we can see the edge of the contrast paints and I couldn't get those to go away even with multiple applied layers tried different thicknesses of the paint all that kind of stuff so that's worth bearing in mind if you are thinking of trying this method on your bigger models I will say that it's better than I've ever managed before using contrast paints so that's a big plus now that I'm happy with the shoulder pad let's apply this lengthier method to the rest of the dread and while that happens off screen let's check in with airbrushing Ollie to see how he's getting on applying Shadows no problem take a darker color and apply it into the recesses go light on the pressure and avoid using black to make darker colors as they will remove the poppiness of your colors I used orange brown for my first shadows and then a flat Brown for some deeper shading applying initial shading with the airbrush is a breeze and is perfect for larger models like this however after this this is the point where the brush takes over and there's no real substitute for a small brush and a lot of patience when it comes time for recessed shading I used agrax Earth shade for this pin washing around all of the rivets and the areas where there's recesses in the armor next up Edge highlights and again it's a small brush for these I used a mix of off-white and yellow to try to get better coverage in a single layer and now everyone's favorite chapter symbol is getting a bit more freehand today the method here was the same for both though on the paintbrush model I applied thin layers of sky gray with a brush and applied paint through the airbrush to the airbrush model another change from my previous tutorial is that I also sketched out the design in pencil which should make it easier to get a more even design I then filled in alternate squares black and neatened up with Sky gray where required the heart was Carmine red again cleaned up with Sky gray when needed don't worry if you don't get it right first time just cut in with the sky gray in order to bring it back I can't draw a heart first time it took me about four or five goes still room for improvement but I'm feeling more confident already having done three of these shoulder pads maybe I'll be a hundred percent by the time we get to the end of this box blocking in the metallics was done with an airbrush on the areas where possible quick tip using a piece of card to avoid overspray can really speed up your painting process there were however even on the airbrush model some areas that I still had to get at with a brush and including a little fine detail brush for in between the leg joints to get at that area there I applied null oil over all of the metallics and then onto the details now if you want more information about how I painted up the details on these guys you can check out the tutorial that I released last week in the top right hand corner here and where I'll go into more detail on things like Purity seals writing on the script all that kind of thing I was running a bit low on time so I wanted to get these guys to the finish here are the final results foreign [Music] I really like the yellow color of the contrast paints on the brush version but the clean transitions of the airbrush are hard to beat for me thank you so much for watching this video if you have been enjoying the content and you'd like to support the channel the best way you can do that is to continue watching my videos as many of them as possible put them on repeat stick them on a playlist and that way it shows YouTube that you are enjoying the stuff that I'm putting out so they'll show it to more people like you I'm also thinking about ways you can directly support the channel I already have my affiliate link to element games in the description down below and I'm also thinking of starting a patreon would that be the kind of thing that you'd be interested in from the channel if so what kinds of things would you like to see on there I'm already thinking about trialing live streaming one day a week so that I have some time where we can hang out and hobby together so that we can get ahead of the gray plastic wave let me know if you have any other ideas for me in the comments down below thank you so much for watching this video my name has been Ollie this has been my hobby and I'll see you next time

Channel: Hobby with Oli

Views: 11,623

Keywords: warhammer 40k, leviathan, lamenters, painting tutorial, warhammer 40000, space marines, tyranids, tutorial, how to paint, blood angels, lamenters 40k, ballistus dreadnought, leviathan box set painting, leviathan box set unboxing, airbrush, paintbrush

Id: XDyTHMcgK4M

Length: 10min 17sec (617 seconds)

Published: Sun Jul 09 2023