Outdoor Light - Easy Installation without touching the house electrics.

i installed this gate and fence in the summer which has turned out really well other than the fact that the light is on one side of it which means now it's winter means it's really dark on this side so today i'm going to show you how to install an outside light on the timer so don't forget to turn it on without even touching the house electrics here on proper diy [Music] [Music] [Music] i've decided to place it centrally here on the wall and height wise the same as the others around the house until i measure them and realize they're all at slightly different heights so i pick an average and go for that as it's not near any other light so an inch or so either way won't be noticed by anyone it doesn't really matter where the hole comes out on the inside of this room because it's only my boiler room so i'm quite happy with it anywhere so with a couple of inches of angle i reckon is going to come out about there this cavity wall is around 350 millimeters or 14 inches thick so i use my sds drill at an upward angle to drill a 22 millimeter hole ending up around an inch away from where i predicted which wasn't too far out to bridge the cavity i use a length of 15 millimeter pex pipe which i insert flush with the outside wall so i can go around to the other side and mark how long i need to cut it i want it just protruding into the back box that i'll be using this pex pipe is actually for water but i find using the 15 millimeter pipe like this in a 22 millimeter hole gives plenty of room to get silicon all the way around and to get a good seal it's important first to get rid of any residual dust in the hole so the silicon can bond properly to the block work as i'm fitting this flush to the wall to help be able to hold it i have this good idea of ramming in a sharpie into the end to be able to have something to hold on to while i'm pushing in the silicon it's good to fall silicon in starting as deep as possible to get a really good seal around the two the sharpie trick worked really well until i had to get it out and then i realized i'd maybe pushed it in a bit too much calm out come at you i did the same on the inside forcing the silicon as deep as i can all the way around the pipe but this time use pliers to grip the pipe while i'm doing it to stop it moving in or out i cut and install a length of one millimeter twin on earth into the pipe and also seal this with silicon both inside and out this means i've got a water tight seal between the pipe and the wall and between the pipe and the cable while i'm waiting for the silicon to firm up a little bit i thought i'd show you what materials i'm using today so the main lamp is one of these lap brush stainless steel up and down wall lighters which matches the other ones around my house it uses gu10 bulbs or lamps which look a little bit like that and it comes in two parts there's a part that gets connected to the wall and screwed to the wall and there's a part that's got the bulbs and the the electrics in now both of these parts need to be orientated the right way up the one that gets screwed onto the wall has actually got a drain hole at the bottom but that obviously needs to be at the bottom so any water that does get in there can drain out and most people don't know that even this part needs to be orientated the right way and the reason for that is that these threads that contain the lamps underneath are actually different you've got a mouth thread and you've got a female thread and the reason for that is that if you orientate it the right way up and the water comes down it will tend to flow over that thread come down here and tend to flow over this one if it's upside down it has more of a tendency to get into the thread and obviously into the fitting so make sure if you're going to fit one of these that both items are actually fitted the right way up obviously being stainless steel it's also got an earth connected to the body so it's really important that we make sure that we've got that earth continuity all the way through to this frame just for safety's sake the one thing that i would highly recommend if you've got any fittings like this which is essentially metal to metal is before you fit them make sure you grease this thread you can hear even brand new out the box how coarse that thread is and after a year of being in the sun and the rain and the wind there's only need to lose a little bit of corrosion or rust or gunk in there and you won't be able to take that off so a little bit of grease now may save you a lot of bother in a year's time when you try to change the bulb now on the inside the penetration that i've already cut into the wall is going to come through into a surface mounted box like this now i'm not going to recess this into the plaster because it's going into a utility stroke boiler room so i'm quite happy for it to be on show now in that i'm going to be using an analog timer these are very very basic timers they've been out for many many years and very easy to use and essentially you set the time on them and then it's very easy to decide what time these lights come on and off and there's a manual override you can turn on if you ever want the light on just manually now there's four connections on the back and it's very straightforward how to connect this the instructions tell you everything you need to know but interestingly there's not a connection for earth and as i just said we do need the earth to go all the way to this to make sure that this is protected so within this box what i'll be doing is the earth comes in i'll be connecting it to the outgoing cable using one of these waygo type connectors which are very very easy to use you essentially just put the cable or the the wire inside and clip it down and it's got a connection so it's really important that we get that continuity of earth all the way from the plug which is where i'm getting the power from through the back box all the way through onto this metal enclosure this is really important that this is properly earthed now on the inside this surface mounted back box that will contain the timer from here down to the plug i've decided to use this 20 mil upvc conduit now they sell a number of items for this including these sort of connectors that will connect into the back box which makes it really easy to connect the conduit to it and obviously in this range they also sell connectors and clips and bends and everything else that you're possibly going to need as well so let's get back to work i think i'm going to go back to the outside and finish fitting the light fitting before going on to the inside and showing you how i put all this sort of stuff together the back of the light fitting has a rubber membrane to seal around the cable which is pierced with a screwdriver before sliding it over i line up the bracket and mark through the fixing holes with a squirt or two of marksman marking paint and drill two six millimeter holes [Music] this bracket does have some adjustment so i'm not overly concerned on getting the holes exactly level as i know that i can twist it a certain amount left or right when i tighten it up [Music] now the silicone has got some strength i can prepare the wires without them moving in the conduit in the wall or pulling the cable out these are connected onto the light here by a standard screw type connector block it's important when you're fixing these that you're tightening down on copper rather than insulation and that the screws are done up tight to ensure good connection [Music] with the fitting in place i can put in the two lamps and grease the threads [Music] i liberally blob the grease on the thread knowing that the act of screwing them in place will spread it out evenly [Music] [Music] so with the outside complete i move on to the work on the inside [Music] my [Music] [Music] i offer up the conduit with a bend to decide where i want it to end up i think it'll look right a couple of inches above the skirting so i mark and cut [Music] after fixing the first section i work my way around the wall measuring cutting and fixing one one five five [Music] i push and pull through the cable as i go this is one millimeter flex cable i'm using here so i can fit a plug to the end of it which isn't recommended for twin and earth [Music] so [Music] wow [Music] interestingly enough when i came to wire in the timer although it has four connectors on the back only three are used a common neutral in and out live in and live out so why there's four connectors i have no idea [Music] the power for this light is coming from a socket already installed in the room i've done this as i have no clue where the nearest light circuit is and even if i did i don't want the additional work of opening up holes in walls and making good afterwards doing it this way i don't have to touch the house electrics in any way making the final connection as easy as fitting a plug [Music] so there you go fully installed and complete that's really going to help over these dark winter days because it matches all the other ones on the house i don't think anyone else is even going to know that this is a brand new fitting so i hope you've enjoyed this video if you have please check out the other ones on my channel and please subscribe and if you have subscribed please make sure you hit that notification button so you don't miss any future videos so until next time i'll see you then [Music]

Channel: Proper DIY

Views: 648,834

Keywords: outdoor lighting, outdoor lighting installation, outdoor lights for house, outdoor light fixture installation, outdoor light timer, outdoor lights for patio, outdoor light switch, outdoor lighting idaes, outdoor lighting ideas diy

Id: C-zRfA7gpbY

Length: 14min 12sec (852 seconds)

Published: Fri Dec 03 2021