Our Nissan GTRav4 Toyota SUV Turbo Mega Softroad Build [Part 2]

to celebrate the build of our mad Rav 4 we've got free merch for every single one of you and we have 14 tool proo 108 piece tool kits that have a lifetime warranty and we're going to give one away every single day for the next 2 weeks so here's how it works jump onto the mighty car mod shop make an order anything you like you will get something free and once a day we're going to pick someone they will get one of them we'll send it to you wherever you are in the world good luck I hope you get your something mad now let's dive right into the RAB 4 build as it continues in this episode of Mighty Car Mods the heart of our turbocharged Camry lives on inside our Toyota Nissan Skyline RAV R34 bide blue [Music] yes welcome to another episode of Mighty K mods featuring The Nissen RAV 34 GTR it's B it is it's bide blue it's so much we've been through this check out the first episode if you haven't seen it on this episode it's excellent value Martin it's amazing can we just say that can we just tell everyone how good of value it is if you don't have one you're and no MCM tax on these cars people they're still cheap they always were they always will be no one wants them probably cuz they're what it's coming what do you mean it's coming you reckon it's going up oh dude absolutely stons all wheeel Drive oh yeah manual turbo twoo tick niss and badge bside blue no niss and badge on this episode we're going to get the Turbo System working fuel system clutch because you have to or it's going to spin it and blow it up so come with us check it out let's go this is the fuel system we're going to use on the Rav 4 that is our gfb fxs fuel pressure regulator got a little fuel filter in there as well I've also got bigger injectors from memory I think these are like 750cc also got adapters to go to the Toyota harness from whatever that form is but these aftermarket injectors from race works I think they're like a Bosch injector 750 C good for ethanol I've also got the original rail I have a feeling this will be exactly the same as one that's on the rav but it does have our adapter on there which gets rid of the factory fuel pressure regulator and of course I've got the pump uh I was very happy with how this turned out that's got a feed there that's the original feed which we now use as a return so if that hopefully will drop straight into the rav if it doesn't I'm going to recycle all these parts into the factory RAV hanger but we will need to add a fuel filter hopefully can use the old one this is all going into the rav to make some chwo noises when you're adding air with a turbo you need to also add more fuel so you can get a nice wholesome bang Factory fuel systems are built for the manufacturer's power goals not ours and ours are much bigger so a bigger pump is step one step two is making the system boost referenced which means when the boost pressure goes up so does the fuel pressure at a 1:1 ratio we also need bigger injectors to squirt more juice into the combustion Chambers our programmable ECU will handle this with ease and some injector plug adapters make this part of the upgrade very simple the fuel pump lives under the back seats and like many cars of this era it's easy to get to all right so that is the Rav 4 sender this is the Camry sender one that we previously modified you can see that's the uh the send that we put in with the bulkhead fitting and that's the return which was the original send so same here uh they do look somewhat interchangeable but there's a difference here there's some kind of jet pump Arrangement that comes off the side of the pump because the Rav 4 has a big drive shaft going through the center of the car so you need to get fuel from one side of the tank to the other side cuz it's like Saddles over the top of them uh that might change things of how we do it so let's see around this time many cars went to a plastic fuel hanger which can be trickier to modify than the older metal ones it looks like the Camry one we kept and Rav 4 ones are nearly identical which is going to save us a bunch of time that is the Camry fuel hanger um I swapped the sender from the RAV four onto it cuz it's only a two wire on the Camry it is a three wire don't know why something to do with the empty light maybe either way it swaps on it or bolts in which is great the one issue I am going to have is that on the camera it doesn't have this jet pump thing so that's actually the fuel pressure regulator for when you've got a dead head system where you don't have a return going back to the tank all the regulation is done at the back of the car and just sends it up at the right fuel pressure you can do it but then we can't have a rising rate fuel pressure regulator which you want for a turbo application in my opinion it just makes tuning it a bit nicer you don't have to have it the ecus like the htech we're using is smart enough to be able to compensate but I find you run out of fuel system quicker so the return is generally a nicer experience so this jet pump though is required to get fuel from one side of the tank to the other it doesn't actually fit our camera Arrangement because it relies on that fuel pressure regulator to do jet pump things um so potentially we're going to have half the capacity of fuel system until we work that out but I'm going to get it in there so I can get the thing started and running because this is something I can pull out later and experiment with and in the meantime do some research on how to make that work so the jet pump definitely complicates things and if I don't work it out I'll basically Harve our fuel capacity As It Won't Suck across from the side that the pump isn't on either way I'll need to install another bulkhead fitting in the plastic hanger which is now getting pretty crowded it is a bit of a hack job but I reckon it's going to work and it's still neater and quieter and less wiring than running an external surge tank which is the only other option that is the hanger out of the Camry which had our existing feed as you can see it comes up get sucked through the pump here that's the Rav 4 level sender we've got the aftermarket pump here which is E85 friendly we have a clamp on there and some hose it goes up and sends it to the front of the car what I've added now is a return line that goes into the regulator in the engine bay it comes back through here the reason I've done that is that we have a thing called a siphon system which siphons fuel from one side of the tank to the other side the pump only exists on one side and you need to use the return to make a suction to suck the fuel up and get it to he it's all bit tricky but luckily uh radium make a Venturi jet pump kit now these are normally designed to go in hangers where people put really big pumps in and then the venturer system doesn't work properly in our case luckily we're able to use this to connect to the existing RAV Force system uh but I can't make it work with the original return which is that as you can see I've just ground ground that off I don't have a way to get that back in so we're going to stop using that system and instead I've put another bulkhead fitting here so essentially it's going to go up into there you can see through that hole we'll run a bit of Hose into this siphon system which I think goes that way and then we'll be able to pick up fuel correctly the other thing is that's not the ideal kind of hose to use inside your um fuel tank it's better to use that sort of stuff which is made for being in petrol all the time so we're going to swap to this hard PTF whatever this is and use these fittings instead [Music] all right so we plug that into the hose inside the tank and then this one will just squirt whatever is left from the rig from the return out that hose fingers crossed that works don't know never done it before we're going to find out the siphon hose can be reconnected the whole housing can go back into the tank and now the next job is to run the new fuel supply line up under the car and into the engine bay I'll follow the same path as the factory lines and just make sure it's all covered up then it can be plugged into the fuel pressure regulator up front and just like that the Rav 4 engine will now have plenty of juice to mix with its boosted air I've also put an inline filter into the fuel supply as I've now disabled the integrated one that was in the plastic hanger lastly a htech flex sensor can go into the fuel system return line which will allow us to tune the car for both straight petrol d85 and any mixture of both that we end up with next step on the Rav 4 is intercooling now this is one I got from plasma man here in Sydney uh this was a leftover and I asked if I could have it help keep the price down uh there isn't actually much room in the front of a Rav 4 the radiator and the air con are right there like right here so this is the only space you've got to play with unlike Camry's another car where there's tons of room so we're thinking about top mounting it part of the reason is you do have a scoop there it's actually not functional on this one but if you cut that open then it actually will let air through so we're thinking about cutting that scoop open making use of it then we have really nice short intercooling pipes we've also got a lot of room in the engine bay here as you can see between the top of the motor and where the Bonnet would sit so we're thinking maybe doing something like that or something like that and seeing how it goes front mounting is almost always better but sometimes there just isn't any room our rev 34 GTR came with a weird fake scoop that does nothing or it did nothing until now now we're going to make the best use of it by using it for its actual design purpose to send air to where we need it the most and once this car actually works I'm going to play a mad intercoler solo on it to celebrate here's where We've Ended up with the intercoler system that's the top mount welded some brackets on there to hold it in place give it a little bit of a gap get it as high up and close to the Bonnet as I can so we can get air flow into it from the scoop but also enough room behind it so the air can escape I may have to put a fan on the back of it or a water spray or something else to keep temps down cuz yes topb intercoolers do trap a bit more heat and they do get heat soak this is the old pipes off the Camry that's one that I managed to steal and just put an uh swage and Edge onto it on there so that the the Silicon would fit plus I had to use this ugly blue one I'm going to change it to a black one this is also what used to be on the camera on the intake that's the air temp sensor one extra bend on there and it all fits very excited to see how that sounds it fits up beautifully the next step is to clamp down our fuel system with these clamps we can test it and run the 98 out so it can put some ethanol in a lot of modern cars don't have drain plugs on their fuel tanks but thanks to the extra control we get with our htech it's just a click of a button to turn the pump on which gets all the old fuel out of the car and into a Jerry can I'm going to change the spark plugs Rock a cover gasket and while it's off give it a coat of red paint because why not while I'm up here I'll work out a catch can set up to let the engine breathe better under boost and speaking of boost we now have to make sure that we can control it properly I think the reason I love doing this process so much is that I still clearly remember when I got my first turbocharged car the feeling of the red going up boost building and then that Rush of acceleration was completely addictive and something I've never gotten over the scope to Turbo so many of these older cheap nuggets and I think you'd be hardpressed to not have a great time doing it just add boost add fuel control it properly with a computer or at least a ref Flash and have fun it just never gets old next step is boost control so we've got this Mac valve which controls the wastegate which is this big thing here we're going to do top and bottom hose it is possible just to use one of them but if you got the Boost controller and you're happy to Plum it this is the way to do it so we're going to go top and bottom of the wastegate here and we've got to go to the uh intercooler pipe there's already a fitting for it under there and then find a spot for our valve and then wire that back the Boost controller bleeds off pressure acting on the waist gate diaphragm and this in turn increases the boost pressure our ECU will constantly monitor boost pressure and compare it against the map that we program in on the dyno the idea is to bring the boost on quickly for responsiveness and then hold it to the red line for maximum power I have St from Ek aut one of my favorite people in the whole world who is a legit mechanic legit mechanics do this all day every day on heaps of different cars which is why I asked him to come and help because although I have done clutches before never on a RAV so what's the process with a RAV mate same same we'll strip the top work our way out pull CVS out lift it up take the subframe off pull the box out put a clutch in and done did you see that see how easy makes a clutch chain sound I I lose sleep thinking about doing clutches he's like n we'll be done by lunch time anyway so we have a clutch it's uh as upgraded as we can get for a Rav 4 people aren't generally putting big monster twin plates in these things but this does have like a heavier pressure plate and a nicer stuff we'll show you that later in the meantime going to rip this apart see you in a minute when the box is out [Music] [Music] success the gearbox is out we took the transfer case out the same time when we put it back in we might re like unbolt it and then put it back on again there you go r four gearbox and a clutch and the clutch is old looks very thrash so very worthwhile otherwise it would have absolutely spun on the dyno with some boost flywheel is going to need a machining so we're going to send it away and get it back as sap so it can slap the new CL in so last time Dave was here we got it started and running but that was with the factory fuel system so the returnless uh fuel sender and the stock injectors now we got big injectors in there a return system a fuel pressure regulator that's Rising rate so when the Boost goes up so there a fuel pressure which should work a lot nicer and uh now it's a matter of just wiring in a few extras like air temp and flex and uh probably oil pressure and temperature as well just so we can keep an eye on that probably also do the dry by wire dry by here as well so we can get so we're slowly taking over all the functions that the original ECU had with our Elite we've got a older 2500 that used to be in superr said we're testing with but we're actually got a brand new Elite 1500 which we're going to throw in uh along with an O2 sensor and the usual Suite of stuff that just makes this work beautifully buy the cheapest nastiest oldest bits you can find for your turbo Hardware if you're doing this on the cheap but spend the money on the engine management engines care about air fuel ratio and they have mechanical limits you're going to approach those limits when you add boost but if your tune is good you won't exceed them which means years of who noises and way more interest from potential mates you heard me a good ECU means more turbo action so we're calibrating the e- throttle this is a very very early e throttle car where the throttle bodies controlled by a motor instead of a cable lots of benefits like a nice smooth idle um you have control over you know how much air enters the engine with your computer now if your computer's smart like our htech is you do a lot of cool stuff with that you can do like valet mode and limiting and but overall it's just really really nice to drive so Dave's calibrated it so the ECU is talking to the throttle body to making sure the feedbacks correct and then calibrating the pedal to make sure that's where it needs to be then inside the ECU it joins up together bang you got e throttle excellent awesome me you have to mess around with idle Motors so good a few mechanics we've spoken to have all said that changing a clutch on a Rav 4 is not an easy job quoting 10 hours labor or more so we've got our mate Sam to come down who's a proper mechanic and he's going to give us a hand because of the amount of work involved it's absolutely worthwhile changing any SEALS or bearings that live inside this setup like the throwout bearing and the rear main seal we've had our flywheel machine so it's completely flat and our extreme clutch is a bit of a hybrid it has the clamping force and friction of a puck clutch but the sprung Center makes it a bit nicer to drive on the road okay so gearbox is going back in we have pulled the transfer case off to make our lives easier this is more now just like your average front wheeel drive gearbox going in without all the extra garbage clutches in looks excellent all orange and Outback apparently from extreme clutch which is pretty cool it does have a stronger pressure plate so there is more pressure to hold everything together in there and a brand new bit of friction material so be a good thing let's see if we can get this in we're on our way [Music] [Music] [Music] would you wait for me look at that drive shafts back in ball joints going in we're pretty much done for the day clutch installs done everything's back together tomorrow I'm going to put some fluids in it and troubleshoot my fuel system which is not getting pressure yet they're the two things that I need to do but otherwise a good day thank you Sam you're a legend man I can't believe how you just pump that out it's pretty good real mechanics I like to write up a list about Midway through a job to make sure that when it's late you're tired and a tiny weeny bit over it that you don't forget anything really important like brake fluid we're going to drop the diff oil and then refill everything with Castrol fluids any hoses that look a little bit old and thrashed are also going to get replaced and then I can focus my attention on the intake which will poke up and Out near the back of the headlight to try and grab a little bit of cold air it's been another massive session on the Rev 34 and at this point in the build we're starting to get excited about the all-wheel drive skids that are coming soon and with a custom 4-in intake pipe cut up and ready to go it's installed directly on the turbo with a pod filter ready for those epic turbo noises so some excellent progress is being made on our mad Toyota Rav 4 uh thank you very much for every watch I called it the wrong thing you did call it's a niss RAV 34 GTR got it all drive manual turbo Bayside blue correct got it we should painted GTR purple that'd be so good anyway Martin where what are you talking about thank you everyone who's been following along in this build there was an overwhelmingly positive response when we got a rra four which I did not expect guys are loving it aren't you loving it it's just a cool car and and it's it's actually been really fun to work on really easy so much stuff fits parts are available just a good time so thank you very much for all your enthusiasm and your comments and of course if you do want to support the show we do pack and send everything from right here in Sydney Australia we don't get third party companies to do it like a lot of our YouTube channels do it's all done here with a small crew of our mates uh we literally get the orders in we pack it we put it in a thing we send it directly to you from Sydney Australia so if you do want to grab something it does directly support us it helps fund the show if you buy yourself a t-shirt next time you're looking at a video you can know that it is you helping keep the lights on so thank you very much art mtin that's it for today that's it got another episode coming up for you soon a big one strap yourselves in see you in a bit

Channel: Mighty Car Mods

Views: 320,591

Keywords: mighty, car, mods, mcm, MCM, moog, marty, turbo, how, to, diy, rave4, tiyota, toyota, tabo, supercharged, do it yourself, DIY, skyline, gtr, rav4, Rav 4, SUV

Id: HCcnIgbdf7g

Length: 18min 49sec (1129 seconds)

Published: Mon Jun 17 2024