our MOST EXPENSIVE epoxy table build (with Blacktail Studio)

this week I'm going to show you guys exactly how you can achieve by building a epoxy table by using DIY skills and obviously with my knowledge and in this video I'm going to share a ton of tips and tricks and I'm going to show you our methods that we use on a daily basis building high-end exclusive epoxy tables and you guys do want to stick around until the end of this video to see how this masterpiece came out and run about just before the end of this video we are going to use Cameron from blackdale Studios N3 Nano coating as a additional protective layer on our epoxy table I'm going to give you our honest opinion and I'm going to show you guys how we applied this product and for all of you that's just scrolling through the video you do want to stick around until so the middle part of this video where we're going to cast the epoxy because we got a really important announcement we want to share with you guys that will be beneficial for you if you want to start building epoxy tables so this week's project my friend Michael asked me he wanted something unique he wanted something special he wanted a centerpiece in his kitchen he wanted if someone friends and family walks into his house needs to be absolutely Blown Away by a Furniture piece and I consulted with him we went up and down and we decided that we're going to build him a epoxy table but a waterfall epoxy rivet table and I honestly do have to say that this project had a ton of challenges and this is also something I want to share with you guys don't be afraid of failure you will always fail somewhere in your life you will always make mistakes but that's the one true place that you can learn you can only learn by making mistakes even us that's building epoxy tables on a daily base we still makes mistakes but this is making us stronger so don't be afraid of working with epoxy because you can only get stronger you're only gonna build more knowledge you're gonna build more wisdom and within a few years time you are literally going to be an expert at what you do not only in woodworking in your daily life as well so starting off the first step in our project is by making sure that our wooden slab is completely dry and the only way to know this is with a moisture meter now for us that's building tables believe it or not we don't own a moisture meter but the company that's drawing our slabs for us they got the really expensive moisture meter that we always use once we go and collect our wood to make sure that the moisture in our slabs are under 11 please this is the most crucial step in your entire build is to make sure that the wooden slab you're going to use are gonna be under 11 moisture now there's a few ways you can dry your food the first option is obviously the option that you don't want to hear is by drying your wood naturally now this can take two to three years and I know that's a very very long time and the second option is the option that we are currently using and that is a kiln oven now this process can take six to eight months and the third option is a vacuum Kiln oven but for us in South Africa we don't have a vacuum Kiln oven and the process for a vacuum clean oven is super fast as you can see the thickness of the slab in a vacuum clean oven it can take around about two to three weeks but I can guarantee you they are super expensive once your slab is dry and you've got it in your shop the absolute Next Step you want to do is make sure that your slab is flat on top and at the bottom this is going to help you not to waste too much epoxy the next step is to remove all the bulk and soft wood from your slab critical critical step don't skip the step and we get so much questions and queries on people asking us why can't they leave the bulk on the wood and answer to that is really simple why do you want epoxy to stick to the bulk if the bark can be removed from your slab easily just remove the bulk and there's a few ways you can do this we will typically start with M and a chisel to remove the bulkier pieces of the book then we will come with a wire steel brush and our baby grinder and remove all the soft wood until the bulk has been removed until we are only left with our slab the core of the slab critical the next step in our build is the designing process and this is where the true artist and the true Picasso in yourself needs to come out this is something that's going to make you stand out out of all the other people all the other supplies that's building epoxy tables is choose your slabs correctly don't choose straight slabs because there's so many slabs out there in the world that's got straight edges and they are boring make sure you choose the correct slab and we typically before we start our project while we are in the process of buying slabs we can see the end result before we even purchase the slab and this obviously comes with skill and experience but if I can give you guys advice choose the slab that's got the most curves the most pens the most cracks the most Halls choose those slabs that no one wants to buy and they are the ones that makes the most beautiful tables in the world the next step in our project is the designing process and we will typically use our mold the white melamine sheet and we will place our slabs on top of the sheet we will move it around then you're gonna have a good idea of how your slab is going to look we will cut it in half and we will place the slabs on top of the white melamine sheet to see the end result once you have cut your slab and you've got your complete design and I do want to make a massive recommendation and this is something we are super proud of is we we consistently keep our clients up to date with what we are busy with on a daily basis we make them part of this whole journey of manufacturing a bespoke handcrafted Furniture piece make them involved you know get them involved with the whole building process and they love it so once your slab has been cut into half it time to build your mold and we always use white melamine sheet because the white melamine that's over the chipboard is a layer that the epoxy is not going to penetrate into the wood so once you have your flat surface of your white melamine sheet we need to put the sides up to make sure the epoxy is obviously not going to leak out and you do want to make sure to seal the inside corners of your melt with silicon once you are done with that step and your Silicone is dry we are using a product that's called Ram wax now this wax is also a crucial part in making sure that the epoxy is not going to bond and stick to your white melamine sheet now getting to the epoxy part of this video we are using a epoxy that's called Crystal 100 and it's a deep casting epoxy but we don't do deep castings at all because the majority of the tables we built is transparent colors so we will use either a transparent light blue or we would use a transparent light black that's our most popular tables so by using the transparent colors you will see bubbles occur very easily so the reason why we use deep casting epoxy is because we got more working time with the epoxy when we're using epoxy that we cast into layers we typically wait four to five hours before that epoxy starts to get like jelly and becomes hot with deep casting epoxy we can wait a total of 24 hours before that epoxy is going to start to cure so we will typically on a table like this we will do three to four castings of the epoxy and this helps us to reduce most of our bubbles now if you are going to use a solid color like you won't be able to see the live edges on your table this doesn't matter you can cast your table up to the full height now if you are a DIY or a hobbyist or someone that wants to start building epoxy tables someone that wants to start a small woodworking company or you have a company already we took the liberty in designing and filming a three hour along epoxy master class and the reason for this is even if you watch the full video it's physically impossible for me to go into detail on exactly to the T from start to finish and explaining you in detail how we build out tables this is why we designed this course for all Woodworkers it's a online epoxy Master Class it's showing you all our methods and techniques we use on a daily basis building epoxy tables I'm going to show you all the tools you need I'm going to show you all the steps we take I'm going to show you tips and tricks after watching this course you will be able to build epoxy tables successfully you know what I made a short little clip to show you guys what you can expect in this master class we've been building epoxy tables for many years now and we are finally going to share all our methods and techniques with you [Music] my name is Greg and I am going to show you how to build the perfect epoxy table [Music] I'm going to show you all the tools you need exactly how to use them and show you some tips and tricks down the line [Music] everyone thinks you need to cost your second layer of epoxy once your first layer is safe that's not true you need to cast your second layer of epoxy once your first layer has become tacky [Music] foreign this monster claws has been designed for all Woodworkers from your beginner all the way up to your experts [Music] click on this video or in the description down below for more information [Music] foreign so I am going to leave a link down in the description of this video where you can find all the details for this course and it's just going to help you further in your journey by building epoxy tables successfully now continuing with the build currently in South Africa it's becoming cold it's becoming winter so we will typically have a big drum we will warm it up with water and then we will put our full batch of epoxy into this water so the epoxy can just heat up a little bit and this is going to help us and it's going to help you so that the air bubbles will release much more easier now please under no circumstances you do have to ask your supplier all the specifications when working with epoxy there's literally thousands and thousand different types of epoxies on the market and this method that we use in heating up our epoxy might not work with your box it might speed up the complete process of your epoxy and this is why it's crucial to get the correct specifications from your epoxy supplier casting your epoxy the one tip I want to give you guys is cost slowly and cost on a small little Ridge on the live edge of your table this is going to help you to reduce bubbles if you're just going to cost quickly there might be air bubbles that's going to be stuck and you don't want this so on a table like this we will typically cast over a period of three to four days it's winter now so we might cost like five days normally in the summer months we will cost over a course of three days because we will cost in the morning and then when we come back the next day the morning the layer we cast it has become tacky and this is a crucial step in you want the second layer of your epoxy to bond to the first layer now the way we've done it before is we would leave our first layer to dry fully we will come and sand it and then we will come and cast our second layer of epoxy now there's nothing wrong with it but we found that costing your next layer once your first layer has become tacky is gonna give you a guaranteed 100 percent perfect effect strong bond and that is what you want once you go through epoxy we will take our gas torch and we will come lightly over the epoxy to remove all the air bubbles that's rising up to the surface and this is a mistake we made as you can see our timing was way off I think this was much probably done over a weekend and we had to go back to our route we left our second layer of epoxy to fully cure and we had to come back the next day to send our second layer of epoxy to make sure the third layer is going to bond 100 with the layer we just casted now like I mentioned we've done this way at the back it still works but just do the tacky method because it's a better way in bonding your epoxy layers together now this was a shot I rushed because I wanted a really cool epoxy shot but I promise you we had a ton of bubbles so we costed a very very thin layer we came back and blown all the bubbles out with our gas torch but I wanted the shot for the YouTube channel as you can see removing all the air bubbles with my gas torch this is a super crucial step and we will typically cast in the mornings and then we will continuously during the course of the day small air bubbles will rise up and you will see especially on the side of your Live Edge as the wood sucks in the epoxy the air bubbles will come up so we will continue this step during the course of the day once we leave the shop in the afternoon all the air bubbles is gone this is why we like using deep casting epoxy because we got more working time with the epoxy super crucial step so the one question we get a lot on our Channel and it's a current battle in the market all the companies that's building epoxy tables is whether to seal your life edges with epoxy wait for it to dry come and scuff it up then put your slab in your mold and then cast your epoxy now this method does work but we feel that you are not giving the epoxy a very strong bond between the epoxy and the wood thus is why we are not sealing our live edges just think about it logically if you're going to cast your epoxy and don't seal the side of your edges the epoxy is going to soak into the wood is going to penetrate into the wood and the bond you have there is going to be the strongest bond you have I think I've also followed Black Forest wood company and they also do this method and I agree with them 100 you want the epoxy to penetrate into the wood once we costed our epoxy we waited a total of 7 to 10 days for the epoxy to care fully to be fully hard you don't want to take it out of the mold too fast even if it feels hot and dry don't take it out leave it for a total of seven to ten days or according to your suppliers specification once we took it out of the mold as you can see it's absolutely beautiful this piece is really something special it's really unique and it took a ton of epoxy and as you can see the color we went with was a see-through black it was like a mid not a dark black but not a light black it was something in between and this is what we like with the black colors is that it will fit into any home if you go with blue pink orange it's going to be difficult to find furniture that fits with your table after we took the table out of the mold we took it to our CNC supplier to flatten our slab for us on top and at the bottom now this piece we forgot to film but we have it back in our shop so the next step in our project is the specific wood species we went with and the drying methods we went with the slab was extremely dry so once we flattened the slab there was a lot of holes cracks we had to fill and to fill this individually is a problem the way we done it way back is we will only come and close the small little crackle holes but that epoxy that was overflowing over the crack made a stain so the method we are using now is we would come with a very thin layer of epoxy over the complete surface of our slab meaning we're basically staining the whole top part of our slab close all the small little imperfections all the small little holes all the small little cracks because you want it to be closed you want to give the client what they paid for these tables are really expensive and to do it off as is not the way to go so we will repeat this process on top of our table and at the bottom of our table and the next step I want to give you guys is once you apply a thin layer of epoxy over the complete surface of your table you do want to do this in the morning once you're at your shop or if you are going to be present at this table for the full day because you're going to see once you start closing all the small little cracks with the epoxy that crack will penetrate the epoxy so you will continuously have to come back to full small little cracks because some cracks takes more epoxy than others and you don't want to come back the next day to full cracks again because time is a factor in building these tables because we have to wait for this epoxy a full two days to dry and this top coat epoxy that we are using is not the same epoxy that we use to cast the table this epoxy sets much faster it typically sets six to eight hours but we will typically wait two days for the epoxy to set now what's also beneficial for this top coat of epoxy we applying over the wooden section is that it penetrates into the wood it basically seals the wood but we are going to sand it off but they still there's still going to be epoxy that's going to be penetrated into the wood and this is going to help the wood to be sealed and help the wood not to bend or twist long term so just a little bit of admin before we're going to continue with the build if you guys think I deserve your subscription if you learned something already support us by helping the channel grow hit the notification button hit the Subscribe button hit the like button let me know in the comments down below what do you think of this build and let me know in the comments down below if you have learned something new today that you're going to apply to your skills and developing yourself in building epoxy tables I just want to thank everyone for the support this for we are trying to reach 100 000 subscribers by the end of this year meaning we got around about six months left and we still got a very far way to go we also have a ton of DIY epoxy Builds on our Channel if you guys do want to go and check it out you will definitely definitely learn something from us and we are always here to help anyone that wants to build epoxy tables or attempt any DIY project so continuing with the build massive tip I want to share with you guys when you design your table and you are building your mold always make sure to build your table slightly bigger lengthwise and width wise so you can come back once your table is ready to be cut down to its final size that you're not going to cut your table down smaller as what you planned for at the start this is quite crucial now we are using the phase tool HK 85 meaning we can cut 85 mil deep the HK 85 track saw we are using is a really really strong machine and we can cut our table down to its final size in one go now the previous track saw we had was a Makita and we had to do two to three Cuts just to cut out table down to its final size the next massive tip I want to share with you guys is you need to use the correct blade for the this cut use a fine blade use a blade that's got a lot of teeth that's going to give you the perfect cut now we have numerous of blades we got blades that's cutting our table down to its final size and then we've got another blade that's cutting our slabs in half when we are busy with the designing process and what I love about the track saw is that it comes with a track that helps you to cut perfectly straight and we also have this 90 degree Corner device from face tool that will help cut our ends of our table Square the next step in our project is to sand our table down now we don't really like using the belt sander because it removes too much materials if you're not going to Sand by observing what you're actually doing now we will typically use our Festool Rotex for this method because the belt sander just removes too much epoxy at once so you when you're going to use this you're going to have to do it super fast so once our table has been sanded down to around about 80 grit it was time for us to cut our waterfall now this is where things really get tricky and this was a massive learning curve for us this is only the second waterfall River table we built so we are still figuring out the whole process but with a little bit of logic and a little bit of experience this wasn't too difficult for us and we did manage to get this step almost perfect I'm going to show you one of the mistakes we made in the next few minutes to come and I'm going to show you how we resolved the problem now I'm just busy mocking for my 45 degree where I need to cut to form my waterfall now this is the part of the project where you're going to need a little bit more than DIY skills but the rest of the build hopefully with my knowledge tips and tricks and methods we're using you can achieve to build a epoxy table successfully now you can see I'm making two marks which I am leaving allowance for the blade this is super crucial and this was a really fun part because you know we had to challenge ourselves right the challenge myself I had to challenge my skills and I can with all confidence say that we absolutely nailed this part of the project like I mentioned it adds some challenges but what is life without challenges nothing will always run smooth and it's not about challenges it's about finding Solutions and this is the most crucial step in your everyday life and your woodworking skills is to find solutions for all the problems now I'm using the same blade to cut a straight line down where my waterfall is going to form then I'm going to cut my 45 degree angles afterwards this is a fun part of the project and this was literally where this The Woodworking saying goes measure twice cut once uh we measured like 14 times before we made sure to do this cut it was super risky but it paid off at the end now just removing the waterfall part of our table and as you can see on the side it's a super smooth cut we once cut our sides of our table down by not using the correct blade and you will see that when you're going to use the wrong blade you're going to have some massive tear out in the epoxy and to fix that is a real problem so use the correct plate now I'm just busy cutting my 45 and like I mentioned this was a tricky part and we did end up cutting it I would say 99 accurate we were about I would say one degree out and you're gonna see what I'm talking about in the next few minutes busy cutting the other side and as you can see it's you can't really see on the markings but I was about one degree out from a 45 degree angle so this part of the build was something that we tried and tested and what we tried here was we applied duct tape to both sides of our table on the underside because my knowledge was like I need to glue small little blocks to this duct tape once we're going to clamp our 90 degree waterfall onto the surface of our table but you'll see that didn't end up working now I am just busy mocking where we need to cut for the dominoes we are using I think it was 12 by a hundred mil Dominos it was really big dominoes because we wanted to make sure once we're going to do this 45 degree glue up that it's going to last forever and it's going to be super super strong thank you so we got the face tool Domino machine and I do have to say that this is one of my favorite Tools in my shop if we do normal standard glue ups for solid wood tables this is our go-to because the dominoes we use I can guarantee you the lamination of the wood is not going anywhere you can have a solid Bond and a solid alignment of your wooden planks now just busy drilling the holes for our dominoes and it's super crucial that your machine sits absolutely on that corner without any gaps because this is the part of the project we can't make any mistakes otherwise the glue up is not going to be successful and we don't want that now we are just busy with the other side with my table top and we need this is why we've done all the markings is we have to do a perfect alignment of the dominoes just giving the two sides we cut 45 a quick sanding with 180 grit this is just to remove the last dust and to make it a little bit more rugged for the glue and the epoxy we're going to apply that we're going to have a strong bond this was the failed attempt I was talking about applying duct tape and gluing wooden blocks to the duct tape because we obviously don't want the blocks to be sticking to our table and this was a massive failure the old thought process behind this was once we're going to do the glue up that we're going to use our Pony clamps by clamping the two blocks together is going to help us clamping the two waterfalls together the waterfall and the table top and just mixing a little bit of epoxy to apply to the epoxy section of our waterfall just applying a little bit of wood glue into my Domino holes this is just to make sure that the Domino's is not going anywhere and the main reason for dominoes is actually to align your pieces of wood perfectly so once we added our dominoes to our tabletop we have to apply wood glue to the wooden section of your table and don't go too close to the epoxy part because once you're going to clamp your pieces together we don't want the good glue to be squeezed onto the epoxy section otherwise you're gonna see it once you're going to oil your table this is quite crucial don't glue too close to the epoxy section like I mentioned this was only our second attempt in building a waterfall both attempts were successful but we had challenges in this build which I'm going to show you guys soon and I'm going to show you guys how we resolved the problem now on the epoxy section of our waterfall we're going to apply a very thin layer of epoxy that's going to be applied on the epoxy section and I'm going to overlap slightly onto the wooden section thank you and now for the Moment of Truth to see that my dominoes has lined up and sorry if the camera angle wasn't perfect this was quite a stressful move in getting it perfectly because we don't want the epoxy or the wood glue to start drying and we had a perfect match and now I'm just using my large Pony clamps to clamp everything together and this was the part where we had to find a solution once our epoxy and Woodley was set in a period of two days and we removed the tape that was over this section and we removed the tape and we saw that the joint wasn't 100 percent so the solution to this is to apply wood glue into that small little Gap the Gap wasn't big it was less than a mole apply wood glue in that small little Gap make sure you push the wood glue into the gap and you'll see now I'm going to take my Festool sander but I'm going to remove the dust extraction pipe because we don't want the dust extractor to suck out all the dust particles I'm going to close the dust portal at the back and I'm going to start sanding over that joint on a flat surface and this is going to create dust particles and the dust particles and the wood glue is going to start to mix and as you can see my joint is busy going away this is how we resolved this issue now we did repeat this step two or three times until we had a perfect perfect joint you couldn't even tell there was a small cap now I would know for most of you that's watching just think that we built this high-end stuff we are also human beings we also make mistakes and we only learn from our mistakes and we ended up finding a perfect solution for the mistake we made moving to the next spot we like to give all our tables that goes out of our shop a very small 45 degree chamfer right around because we still want to keep the thickness of the slab thus we give it a really really small 45 degree chamfer and I'm using my face tool and router for this step we also have the bigger Festool OA 1400 router but we recently invested in the small Palm router and it absolutely changed our life this is also one of my favorite Tools in my shop and it's one of the best investments we've we made is the little Edge sander from face tool this is going to make sure that your edges are always Square now for thick tables like this you can use a normal sander but once you get to thinner tables it's really difficult in sanding the edges without having the sander moving up and down and this 90 degree Edge sander is the perfect tool and the one of the best investments we as a small woodworking company made this is just by far one of the coolest tools face tool came out with and the reason I'm sanding my edges is because we want the router bit we want the bearing to run on a very smooth surface this is the underside of our table and we did apply two steel beams on the underside just to make sure that the table is not going going to bend in the long run and we did send the steel beams in for Powder Coating and applying the steel beams to the other side of my table we're going to use threaded insets now don't use normal self tapping screws because it's just a super cheap way in doing it we are using threaded insets and by doing threaded insets we're going to drill into our underside of our slab we're going to give it a small countersink to make sure once we're going to apply the threaded inset that is going to set flush then we're going to add our threaded inset into the hole we just drilled so we are almost done with the build and one of the final steps before we're going to start applying the oil is we're going to sand our table down to 400 grit sandpaper and this is something we love is signing all our furniture that's going out of our shop this is something we are truly proud of we do we obviously do have the YouTube channel DIY with Greg but we also do have a company that manufactures high in Furniture it's called craft house if you want to go and check our guys out and just before we're going to start oiling our table we're going to use this Scorch pad from Festool it's around about the same grit as 400 grit sandpaper but it's got a sponge texture to it and what I love about it it's removing all the swirl marks from your table we literally do this with all our tables now for this specific friend of mine they requested that we do a smoky finish on our table and you obviously get a smoky finish and you get a high gloss finish on your epoxy tables but we went with a smoky finish and using this Scorch pad is going to change your life and it's one of the big tips if you want a really smooth surface without swirl marks on your table now obviously if you want a high gloss polish finish we will typically send our table up all the way to a thousand five hundred grit then we will start with a face tool polish system to get that super high gloss on our epoxy tables starting with the oiling process we like using OD soil and the reason why we like this is we can sand our tables down to any grid our hot desires so for this build we obviously sand it to 400 grit and that means that we can sand our wood and our epoxy to 400 grit which makes this very easy because if you only have to sand to a certain grid depends on what oil you're going to use it's really difficult to sand exactly on the line between the epoxy and the wood and we are using a very old sander for this step it's because the vibration of the machine basically massages the oil into the wood we love using this and we will typically start with the Odis oil super duper it's a thinner substance as the original Otis oil so we will apply the super duper and we did apply the I think it was the espresso powder to make it slightly Browner and we will apply the super duper we will wait around about hour to an hour and a half then we will come and buff the oil off once this step is complete we will come back the next day round about 24 hours later and then we will apply the original Audis oil and follow the exact same steps we will apply the original Odis oil we will wait one hour for the oil to penetrate into the wood then we will come and buff it off so technically the oiling process for all our tables takes around about four to five days I know it's super long so once we waited a total of seven days it was time to apply Cameron from Blacktail Studios N3 Nano coating and before we applied it I wanted to remove all the dust particles from my table and off camera we did use our air hose and we used a clean cloth with our Festool ETA sander on a low RPM to remove most of the Dust particles so in Cameron's instructions before you start applying the N3 Nano coating hard coat you have to mix alcohol and water and wipe the top of your table off this I think is just to remove the oil or any substances or whatever you may have on your table so you can apply the N3 Nano coating on a clean surface now for us this is the first time we are using this product and to be honest I was skeptical and I think anyone should be skeptical using a new product but overall the result was absolutely brilliant we love this product and we will definitely invest in this product and as you can see in the Box you get your N3 nanocote in hard coat and you get your top coat so starting off wiping the table off with alcohol and water and there was two things I was really concerned about before we started using this product the first thing was Cameron mentioned that it's going to give a low Sheen to your table once you're going to apply it now we promised the client that we're going to give him a smoky table and we did consult with a client afterwards that applying the N3 Nano Coatings that give the table a low Sheen to it which I love I absolutely love the finish and the client was super happy with it overall because they would rather choose a additional protective layer over the frost Smoky finish we promised him applying the hot coat you get a sponge from Cameron and you basically work in blocks and you have to spread the hot coat well evenly and the next thing we were super skeptical about is you apply the hot coat basically in blocks on your table is that I was really afraid of having overlapping marks where we're going to apply the hot coat and this wasn't the case at all if you follow the instructions you get with the entry Nano coating the Finish you're going to get is absolutely perfect and this tip I'm basically doing here is just removing most of the N3 hot coat to have an even surface so applying the hot coat we added three coats of the N3 Nano coating and you have to wait 9 60 to 90 minutes between each coat depending on the weather now in South Africa it's our winter season so we waited a total of 90 minutes between each coat and the next day we applied the top coat also three coats of the top coat that is the protection layer you need if you're going with the N3 Nano coating now it's the first time we're using this product I am truly impressed it's our first batch we ever ordered and we are definitely going to add this to our tables obviously as an additional obviously for the client's cost so this will be a additional we're going to add on to the total cost that also gave me a thought we are actually busy recording a separate additional video we're going to add within the next two weeks where are we going to do some testing on the N3 nanocoding and see how far we can stretch this product we're also going to do some testing on the Odis oil and see the results between the two products now it's obviously not going to be a N3 Nano coating versus ODS because it's two different applications but you guys do want to hit the notification button not to miss that video super impressed this product it's really cool behind the scenes we've done some scratch resistant on the epoxy side and I'm really happy with the product overall and this is definitely going to become one of our preferred products we're going to use on our table now remember we are not sponsored by this it's truly a great product and I would think that Cameron did do some testings and I do have to say that this is truly one of the best products when it comes to protecting overall Furniture pieces that you're putting out there for your clients now before I'm going to head out make sure you subscribe to the channel support us by liking this video subscribing to the channel leave me a comment down below what do you guys think of this product what do you think of this build that you guys learned something new today and have a chat with me I would love to interact with everyone and don't forget to hit the notification button before you guys head out thank you guys for watching this week's episode I hope you guys learned something new today and I'll see you guys next week with a really super cool build we are busy with the video is almost done so see you guys next week enjoy the final product cheers [Music] [Applause] [Music] thank you foreign [Music] [Music] [Music]

Channel: DIY With Greg

Views: 162,099

Keywords: diy, how to, do it yourself, woodworking, craft, art, handmade, homemade, homedecor, furniture, interior design, home, wood, creative, diy craft, diy projects, epoxy resin jewelry, resin craft, resin, epoxy, epoxy resin, resin and wood, epoxy projects, epoxy wood, resin pour, epoxy pour, resin work, epoxy art, resin art, diy epoxy, epoxy table, resin taable, river table, wood work, diy project, festool, tools, epoxy floor, decor, blacktail, blacktail studio, n3, n3 nano, n3 nano coating

Id: e1GPpg1yaFM

Length: 50min 40sec (3040 seconds)

Published: Thu Jul 06 2023