Onan Microquiet 4000 Surge Fix

this is Jeff again another project have an Onan 4000 micro quiet and it is a K series which means it's a small compliant you can tell the this model combined by the altitude adjustment on the carburetor right here and they're a unique beast when you get inside of them and I'm going to take a quick video of it starting just so you can see this disclaimer is before we start um this is not the recommended method for fixing the carburetor they don't make a repair kit for them anymore they don't even sell parts for them so if you destroy any parts during this video be ready to buy a carburetor between 300 and 450 dollars depending on where you look before you start remember you're going to be messing with gasoline and you're going to be messing with electricity so make sure you unhook the 12-volt side of it because you're going to be working directly above the start and prime switch with it which is removing all your line open this drain valve notice the fuel is dripping out of the out of the hose and the fuel is going to drain into the bottom of the general remove this clash tray below let's go ahead and remove the fuel line from the carburetor I've seen these word a couple different ways but usually the ground wire is landed on a one of the screws that has to be on the metal side remember when you put that back on and then the hot bait plugs into it impossible impossible to hold on to wire behind it trick number one what I'm going to do is hold the back wire with the needlenose while I'm pulling on the front wire so that I'm pulling on the solderless connectors alone do not pull on the wires or you will pull them apart okay I hope the hot wire connector the needlenose and I disconnected the hot wire I was a disconnect with the ground wire from the block for the solenoid okay now that we have our fuel hose off and a carburetor drained I took the screws out of the splash tray and I'm going to pull as a picture of the butt splash tray with the two screws there's a picture or the flash tray the splash tray used to be in the bottom of the carburetor what we're going to do is remove the bowl by taking off that so next step is to take a three-quarter inch box wrench and remove the solenoid it doesn't look like it will fit but if you unhook the wires put them through the box end wrench the box end wrench will go over the solenoid on the bottom this is where we hope that the whole piece comes out of the bottom of the carburetor rather than just this hell annoyed okay we got lucky in the solenoid broke loose and it took the retainer nut with it so I'm going to slide the box end wrench off because if you screw the selenite out more than about a quarter of a turn you won't be able to get the wrench off the bottom of it and it will be in the way in the next step now what we're going to do you can see I passed the wires behind the electrical switch by pulling it out on the end where I removed the ground screw we're doing that because we need to screw this solenoid out and there's not enough wire to wind up and if you break this on right off on the bottom that's an expensive limited was screwed the solenoid and the the main jet out of the bottom of the carburetor and you'll notice the float and float mechanism stays attached to the motor you could work on the float needle and seat while it's in there if you need to what we're going to be working on is the altitude adjustment see the altitude adjustment now the knob is laying on the right hand side in this picture and the way the fuel is metered is the tapered end of that needle acts as the jet that meters fuel into the main which is coming up through the center of the carburetor that feeds the motor so the jet feeds the solenoid chain the solenoid chamber feeds the main jet which is in the center but no metering occurs in the main jet the metering occurs on the side where the taper goes into the seat that's what makes this carburetor so difficult to clean and I'll have the parts out a couple of things to know before you start cleaning there's a selling right on the bottom then an aluminum washer then the retainer main jet whatever you want to call it that goes on the bottom of the carburetor there's a copper gasket on the top of that on the side that seals to the bottom of the bowl that gaskets need to be I mean those copper gasket and the aluminum casket need to be in exactly that order and you'll notice inside of the bowl there's an aluminum gasket that also needs to be in that place and you can't dip this because the assembly is staked together at the end of that so it has plastic parts on it he in order to clean the main jet you're going to need to remove the solenoid from the main jet do that by taking a three-quarter holding the solenoid and taking a eleven sixteenths wrench and loosening the main jet from the sonne this is what it looks like when the solenoid is separated from the main jet this should move freely in and out the springs should return it to its normal position that slides up inside the body and closes the people off a bread tie is plenty small to get through these you know most of the bag type twist dies this is a little more difficult and what we're looking at here is the tapered piece that goes into the body so there's no way to clean this other than just take a decent grade carburetor cleaner and back the nut out to highest health I mean lowest altitude which is the farthest out and just start spraying clean spray clean spray clean because there's really no to remove this or get at it not that I've found if you find one please cover it in the opposite direction that metering difficult that metering needle goes to this hole that feeds the main jet so if you take your carb cleaner spray in that hole it will come out the top now be aware put your glasses on this is the perfect place perfect way to spray a carburetor cleaner in your eye don't ask me how I know that a couple more tricks I've learned over the years of working on these beautiful end generators is if you snug these two parts together before you put them back in you can depend on them to come back out just like I show just like I showed if you don't get it out what you can do is take the solenoid out just like I demonstrated and then you can go in with a socket below the fuel petcock fuel drain petcock and you can remove this piece from the carburetor if you Snug these two together remember there's an aluminum washer in between them so if you snug those two together next time when you grab it with the 3/4 wrench the main jet will come out with the with the solenoid we're ready to go back together we'll give it a shot and if it's not clean enough we get today to say have the bowl on there loose with the solenoid just started and around the wires back down behind here by slipping them in behind that little tab that's so the wires can rotate and we don't break them off of that expensive solenoid run it in by hand first make sure you don't cross thread it once you have the cell annoyed snugged up by hand slip the 3/4 wrench over the wires and use the box end to Snug bottom of it do not over tighten and notice how the altitude adjustment is pointed straight out make sure the washer didn't fall out from the body above it it should be a paper gasket and it should still be stuck in the groove don't dig in there try to clean it or you will tear the gasket in they're not available ok one got a flashlight so you can see that I've the electrical wire once again that's an impossibly short wire in the back usually so I take a needle nose and hold that while I plug the red wire back into the red wire that's the power wire and then reconnect the ground to the screw make sure that it's on the casting side not on the outside the painted side it needs to go against there so it's grounded well I'm about sea level so I set the altitude at zero a little rich won't hurt it the plugs come out white okay you can see that I've reinstalled the splash tray that's a t30 torx I took my 3/4 box end tighten the solenoid into the bottom to retain the bowl on the carburetor and reconnected the fuel line I'm going to connect the power and we'll do a test run remember during the prime you'll want to check for fuel leaks make sure the football was not running over make sure there's no fuel dripping out everything anywhere before you you

Channel: Jeff Berry

Views: 155,993

Keywords: Onan, Microquiet, Surging, 4000 surging

Id: Ph_C6XF2TCU

Length: 10min 4sec (604 seconds)

Published: Sat Sep 05 2015