Old Winco Dyna Generator (Part 2 ) - Engine Rebuild on a Briggs L-Head Engine

hey guys welcome back so this is part two on this wind code ina generator this was something I picked up dirt cheap on Facebook actually got it from a 15 year old kid who worked at a power equipment shop and this was one of their rejects so I thought it would be a fun project to see if I could get it going and that's what the first video mostly focused on and luckily we got it going it started first or second pole after cleaning the carb and it made power so I thought we were in pretty good shape but I quickly realized there was a problem now this generator head is rated at 4,000 watts in the engine at 8 horsepower and the most load it could support is about a 1500 watt load which only requires about two or three horsepower so there was about five horsepower missing from this engine and you know I didn't have a leak down tester but I did pressurized cylinder and found that the intake had a pretty significant leak so I lapped that valve put it back together did another test and it was about the same I didn't notice too much of a difference so at that point I kind of ended the video because I really couldn't figure out what was going on with the top end but today I think I figured it out so let me get you set up in a stand and show you what I found ok so another way to do a leak down test without a leak down tester is to rotate the engine to the compression stroke which which is where I'm at right now so from here where that magnet is to about here is the compression stroke and when you rotate the engine during the compression stroke you should be able to let go of the flywheel and the pressure and the cylinder should actually spring the wheel backwards a little bit and while doing that I realized this absolutely no spring back which tells me that there must be a pretty big leak and I was doing this a few times and noticed a hissing sound right there and that got me wondering is that the compression release or is that something else so did I put my ear up to the intake the exhaust heard nothing and finally realized it's coming from the breather hose so long story short I put it to top dead center on the compression stroke pressurised the cylinder again and let me show you what I found so in order to do this I'm just using my compression tester the hose and I'm filling the cylinder with compression basically I have two flywheel locked with a pair of channel locks in place while I do this so that is a pretty significant week I did order a proper leak down tester so before tearing this thing apart I'm going to do a proper test and see where we're at kind of get a baseline and then we'll tear this thing apart fix the problem and we'll test it again alright the week down testers here I'm just going to adjust this to zero out this gauge and that's pretty good so a healthy engine should be about 10% or less which is right here anything more and you should be pretty suspicious of the health of the engine so I've got the flywheel rotated on the compression stroke to top dead center and this hose in the spark plug hole I'm just going to pressurize it and see what the leak down is that's pretty bad that's like 50% and it's coming out the exhaust and the crankcase and the intakes actually pretty good that's the only valve I left I crossed you laughs - both anyway this thing has to be torn apart so I'm going to cut the video here just get the carburetor muffler fuel tank off and I'll turn you back on for the good stuff all right so I got all the peripheral stuff off on this side as well as the fuel tank on that side and I think I'm at the point now where I'm ready to pull the power head and this setups a little different than what I'm used to usually there's an end housing bell housing and four bolts running on the outside here kind of sandwich everything together and although this doesn't have that exact style it does have four bolts and they run the length and do sandwich everything together this end plate does come off once you remove those bolts and there is a plate down here - which is connected to the engine so by removing these four bolts theoretically this can slide out I just need to remove kind of the mounting points on either side down here to free up the stator housing now normally before you do that you have to remove the brushes and believe it or not I did find a parts diagram for this generator head and from what I can tell there are no brushes I believe this is a brushless setup which is good so I don't need to worry about that theoretically I could just slide the stator out outlets and all but there is a ball bearing here in this end plate and that's what holds the road are kind of in place and depending upon how tightly that's pressed in I may not be able to slide this out in that case I'll have to probably disconnect the wiring get this plate completely out of the way and use a puller hopefully I don't have to but I guess we'll find out in a minute all right so we're in a secret was just whacking it with a screwdriver to get this end played off and that's what was holding on to the bearing anyway we're in and you can see there are no slip rings so this is brushless and this is the giant capacitor I was talking about so I would like to think it's discharged but yeah I'll try to stay away from it this is probably the best rotor I have ever seen in a generator all the ones I've worked on the rotor is not protected with a coating and there slip rings and most of the rotors fail because the wire falls off the slip ring or a wire breaks due to the forces involved at this thing spinning at 3600 rpm but with the way this is built I don't see it failing not for those reasons which is usually the point of failure so this is very well built the next issue I think I'm going to have is just getting this bolt out and of course getting the rotor off now typically I fill the cylinder with rope so that I can torque down on this without the engine turning over in this case the spark plugs actually over the valves not the piston so I can't fill it with rope ideally I'd have a strap wrench for the flywheel which I don't have but I'm gonna have to come up with something in order to get that bolt down and in case you're wondering the jack wasn't supporting the weight of the engine it's data very well so I did have to improvise and just give it a little more holding power citizen flop over on to the floor so the best thing I can come up with is a strap you know wrapped around the flywheel a few times and then tie it off here to kind of lock things up but before I can do that I do need to get the Magneto out of the way I think those are threads so I thought I had threads in there but I've tried everything nothing fits so I'm gonna tap it over whatever's there and hopefully it'll give me enough leverage to pop that thing now you so unfortunately the rod I have is too wide diameter I can't get it down the shaft and the next closest size I have would be the same size as this bolt and if I were to push you know kind of rod to size push it in and then torque down on it I will damage the threads on the crankshaft so I'm gonna have to take this engine off stand it up and try the hydraulic method to get this off so in order to do this you need to put teflon on the bolts that you're gonna put in there and you got a need I would say at least eight turns of it maybe more so I actually added some more Teflon I mean there's got to be at least 20 turns on here I would say the more the better as long as it still fits in the threads now I'm gonna use water to get this out you can use oil or really any fluid I prefer water just cuz the cleanup is easy and in this case I'm just going to use a turkey baster to fill it up and then torque down on that screw and I do still have the sketchy strap kind of hooked up to the flywheel and hooked on to the the engine mount area so hopefully that'll be good enough I want to make sure you get all the air out or this may not work okay so in this case I haven't had much luck with the water I don't see it leaking up here but I'm guessing it might be squirting through down at the bottom of the tapered shaft so I'm going to trial which theoretically will squirt out a little slower down there and maybe give me a fighting chance there we go so that may not have been the most graceful rotor removal I've ever done kind of dropping the engine on down on the floor but this engine already has issues and I didn't cause any more damage thankfully ultimately I think it was leaking down here and water and oil really wasn't did it make a difference what I used I was just turning the wrench too slow so I ended up going with the impact nice and fast and that popped it right off so now for the easy part we get to fix the engine okay sorry you missed it I get the flywheel loose I did try to use a puller which didn't work because none of those bolts to the right size I ended up using a giant polar and just applied a little bit of pressure and then gave it a whack right on the end and it popped off it looks like it broke the key in the process not a big deal [Music] ooh okay well now we know where the aluminum was coming from okay so I was expecting the Rings actually and these rings are in pretty good shape the piston though is another story this is quite a bit of scoring and definitely the source of the glitter that was in the oil now the other side doesn't look too bad and the cylinder itself it's kind of hard to show you it is dark but you can see there on the valve side now that I can feel just a little bit especially right there but it doesn't feel too different from the rest of it which is pretty good shape so we're gonna need to hone the cylinder for sure new piston rings the miscellaneous gaskets and the exhaust valve so we got a ways to go yet okay I got a very important side note here I was double checking the timing you know I reviewed the video from when I initially opened this engine and my concern was with this ball bearing here I couldn't see the timing mark on this gear and from what I can tell the timing was off someone's been in here before and they did it wrong there's a mark here on the Kim right there in between two teeth and from what I can tell them the way they put it together was that they lined up these marks which intuitively makes sense right and then they put it together now that's not right the mark here on the counter weight is actually offset by a tooth you know I saw some pictures of it online where they had this ball bearing removed and it's very obvious it's a tooth different so by doing it wrong by a tooth you're affecting when the valves open and close and also when the spark happens so although this top-end has issues this was definitely robbing power as well you know if the spark and the valves were slightly off now the proper way to do this is to line it up so that this dot on the cam which is in between two teeth lines up with the dot here on the counterweight so that the dot and the counterweight goes through those two teeth where the dot is on the key M so it is probably a pretty common mistake but you know in this case I did double-check it I put it back in the way that it was and then I put it back in the way that it should be and I double-checked the valves when it was the engine was switching between the exhaust in the intake and at that point one valve is closing and one is opening and that should happen at top dead center when that switch occurs and when I timed it incorrectly that was slightly off so a pretty important thing to note if you're taking one of these apart make sure you understand how the dot works on the counterweight [Music] she's gonna pull the exhaust valve out and start lapping it [Applause] so the seat doesn't look all that great you know this side has a nice shine to it and over here it's pretty Carboni so I think that's where the exhaust has been leaking through the valve itself doesn't look that bad so spend a little bit of time lap that in and reinstall it I think it cleaned up pretty well is a nice well-defined lime going around the valve and somewhere around the seat you see that nice clean shiny metal going all the way around so hopefully that'll hold pressure out without leaking but only one way to know that's to get it all back together so let me get this valve back in and then we'll shift focus over to the piston and cylinder a second thought I'm gonna leave the spring out I'm sure I closed up the clearance when I lapped it and most likely that stem has got to have to be ground to get the right clearance so I'm just going to move on and get this cylinder hold and again despite the way it looks it actually doesn't feel any different from the other areas adjacent to it so I think a honing should straighten this out so this went on for some time it's gonna spare you guys but just to give you an idea I would do this for about a minute you know clean up the still in there take a look at how things were going and then just reapply some lubricant and go for another minute basically just kept doing that I'd say at least 10 times probably more you know it's how things started looking nice you cleaning okay I don't want to overdo it you can see kind of here from the pattern on the side things cleaned up pretty well we got a good pattern going on and all the vertical lines that were on this side are gone so I think we're in good shape to move on got everything all cleaned up just washed out the cover and the block was soaked water and of course let it dry so that's all set pretty much ready to go now initially I was being chief about it you know I bought a used piston and it's obviously used he can see some scoring on it nothing significant but not new and the what I pulled out obviously is a lot worse so I was trying to justify it you know but that I got to thinking just honed that cylinder and when you do that you're supposed to put a new ring was on you know this is kind of a budget build so I again was being cheap about it but it was bugging me so I went looking at a new new rings new set was like $25 which I was gonna do until I found this this is new old stock piston rings only $45 so I couldn't couldn't turn that one down so this thing is pristine and it costed the Rings to go with it so I'm gonna get the rings on that piston move the connecting rod over and then just start putting this thing back together one thing you don't want to overlook is the ring gap so this is the compression ring and I tested the gap it's at ten thousandths and I tested it at the top middle bottom consistent ten thousandths all the way and did the same for all the Rings just to make sure and we're good now I don't know what the specs should be but tighter the better as far as compression goes but if you get too tight you're gonna cause severe damage to your engine so yeah just keep that in mind I did check to the gap on the original ring and it's at 3000 switch I think's a bit on the low side might be passable but yeah I'm not sure I'd want to take that risk skipped ahead a bit I already get the oil rings on those are pretty straightforward the metals fairly flexible so I don't think there's much danger in it breaking now next we got this middle ring and this one you do have to put it on a certain way says the groove down which this is the wrong ring okay yeah and you can see it there at the groove maybe you can see it okay lastly the top ring this one kind of threw me for a loop says it should be denoted with a dot and it has a like a taper right there and there is no dot and there is no taper so I don't think the direction matters with that said the old ring did have a dot as well as the taper so little confused why they sent this instruction with this ring but it seems to be that it doesn't matter because there is no mark on here okay that wasn't too bad okay I did buy a new gasket here for the cover but I'm gonna put a thin layer of our TV going around I hope I didn't forget any parts because it'll be a pain open this again before lapping the exhaust valve I was at somewhere between nine and ten thousandths now I am between six and seven so I'm on the low side I'm just gonna take a little bit off that valve stem and trying to get it around to heat all right so that's the a I feel just a teeny bit of drag I think I overshot it a bit Nine's kind of the high side of the speck which I'd rather have and that doesn't move at all so yeah somewhere between eight and nine so that that's good decided to lay the engine down on the side I think this will make it a lot easier if that's my hope and yes I did double-check the timing you can see the valves are right at the transition point here and the Pistons at the top that's where it should be even if you have no timing marks you don't know what it should be set it so that you get this and then you know you're good anyway I went back and reviewed the footage from the first time I had this head off and from what I could tell this same point in the valves the piston was right about there so a tooth off not a big deal right the engine still ran but obviously it's gonna cause issues with performance and that's what we were seeing so I know the top end was a mess timing was a little bit off and I am cautiously optimistic so we'll finish this thing up and give it a try [Laughter] so the rotor I did torque down to I'd say roughly 17 foot pounds and these bolts here they're only at about 50 inch pounds when I took it apart I'm going to tighten it back up to 60 inch pounds I'm just rotating the engine now to see if I hear any straightening down here and I don't the only noise I hear are these balls and maybe a bit of a valve noise so we're in pretty good shape to finish this thing up really it's just the recoil Magneto of course the carburetor muffler spark plug gas tank then we're ready all right I think I got all the important pieces the only thing left is the airbox which I'm gonna admit at this time so it's all back together and kind of looking forward to starting it but then again not because if this thing doesn't work I just spent a whole lot of time on nothing here it goes nothing I got the heaters on standby the fire extinguisher as well shows my confidence level assuming it does start it will hopefully run slow I did dial the governor spring back so I'll adjust that back up to 60 Hertz and fiddle with the Jets a bit and then try the 3000 watt load [Applause] [Applause] well it runs much sure what's going on with the the carburetor maybe the governor spring is too loose let me try tightening that a bit [Applause] well the good news is I just put 3000 watts on it and it held so that's very promising now I'm not quite sure what's going on with the governor it's overly sensitive I think not quite sure so maybe a carb issue maybe something with the governor spring so I'm just gonna take a closer look see if I can't figure that out that's the cloned car back on let's give that a try [Applause] [Music] [Applause] okay great it runs well for the most part it handles the 3000 watt load staying at about 59 Hertz which is perfect so this is now a healthy engine really the only gremlin I have to chase is that hunting which only seems to happen at no load and this clone carb actually is handling it a lot better than the old om carb so I'll probably stick with this carb you know I'm thinking two possibilities right now either the governor needs to be reset because I had the engine open so that is a good possibility or there was a spring on the governor rod and I took that off because it was not meant for this engine in fact it doesn't show it that it needs a spring at all and the carburetors not even set up to hold it properly but given what I'm seeing I think I'm gonna try that spring before messing with the the governor this is the spring here that I pulled off guess I should have left it okay Springs installed [Applause] so that's all it was that little spring and now it's perfect anyway I was a little nervous about it because I did do another compression test to leak down tests before starting it and although I didn't record it the numbers were not promising they were pretty much the same as before the rebuild it was 60 psi on the compression test and it was about a 50% leak down so yeah my my hopes are a little bit dashed after that but as you can see it is a good running machine now all the horsepower is there and you know if I had to attribute it to something I'd say it was the timing it was one tooth off and you know I guess if it's one tooth off it'll run sound pretty good but it just won't have the power that it's supposed to anyway I think that's a wrap hope this video helps someone thanks for watching

Channel: James Condon

Views: 151,710

Keywords: 195432, 195432-4070, 8HP, Briggs & Stratton, Briggs and Stratton, Dayton, Dyna, Dynamight, Flat Head, LHead, Flo Jet, FloJet, Generator, Head Gasket, Hone, Honing, L-Head, LC4500I, LC4500I/L, Lapping, Leakdown Test, Piston and Rings, Piston, Rebuild, Repair, Replace Head Gasket, Small Engine, Timing, Troubleshooting, Valve, Valves, Winco Dyna Generator, Winco Dyna, Winco Generator, Winco

Id: SR8tQJ9NFvo

Length: 59min 32sec (3572 seconds)

Published: Thu Jun 18 2020