Old drill press + hoverboard motor = power tapping thingy

hello i bought a new drill press a while ago this is the old one the new one that i got is way better it's like twice the size and much nicer to use the difference is like night and day so this one's been collecting dust since then obviously no reason to use it but i have sort of had a project in mind for this and it's going to be hopefully if this works out a tapping machine like a power tapping thing because i find myself in need of tapping lots of holes along here like that on a very large sheet and it's well i could do it by hand of course but it'd be nicer if you can have something to keep it straight at least to keep it straight but also if it could be powered for you as well that would be nice too another thing that i'm probably going to end up having to do with this sheet is drill holes as well and again could do that by hand but i want to make the holes a certain depth so this is 12 millimeter aluminium plate and i only want the hole to go down to 10 millimeters i don't really want to break through or 11 10 or 11. just just don't want to break through right so doing that by hand is probably going to be very difficult so i would like to keep this as a drill as well but a drill that i could place on something like this a large heavy piece that i could not put on my other drill press and drill into the base so these these things probably have a proper name but basically it's this but shortened a lot and the drill when it comes down is going to go through the floor of that so we're going to have to do some chopping here this piece is just going to be thrown away i think and i'll cut out that bit there so that we can just go straight through it uh just just this section here doesn't need to be there i think i can keep that foot hopefully this and that are not inextricably connected to each other because i'm hoping to maybe break those i actually now wait a minute there's some grub screws in here so what i'd be better off doing is chopping it at this end yeah and it's also cleaner down here so i'll keep the bottom part um and in here we've got just the typical situation it's very nice and clean in here for some reason all shiny i wonder how that happened aluminium i guess doesn't rust or whatever so this motor i'm thinking that's not going to be very good for the power tapping because it's just too fast so what are we going to do for a motor uh been playing around with these recently there's a motor from a hoverboard so it's a brushless dc motor similar to what you'd see on a quadcopter or whatever but obviously much more powerful at least high torque it's not so great in the speed department because those hoverboards are not supposed to go more than 20 kilometers an hour or something like that but it has heaps of torque and i'll just put it down because it's like almost four kilos it's uh it's quite heavy uh so we're gonna have to sort of mount that somehow on there and there's a looks like about a maybe 14 millimeter around there with a flat patch on it and i can use the mounting clamp that was on the hoverboard that i took this from i can just cut cut that away and hopefully mount it on here somewhere and this will be very nice because i can control the speed of that very precisely and also in both directions and what i'm thinking is if i get as far as i'm hoping to with this i can even have it so that it does maybe two turns and then backs off half a turn or something how uh how it's a good idea to do when you're threading you don't want to just go all the way in like that you want to back off a little bit to let the chips uh get out of the way or whatever so that could be all programmed so that all you have to do is just sit here and feed it in to start with and then let it run until it's deep enough and then we'll have to have a different mode i guess to to back out so there's going to be some sophisticated control necessary for this but that part i'm actually not too worried about what i'm mostly worried about is how i'm going to mount this on here now this tray piece is nothing in the way of mounting it's just to stop you from getting your fingers into the belt while it's spinning and the motor is actually mounted on [Music] this side excuse the noise there where we're milling some aluminium over there um so it's got this hinge piece and the motor can swing around like that on the hinge and then to make sure that you can adjust it there's a bit here so that loosens and then the motor can the darker area but it slides on that spring back with the boards um so that's quite a nice system for adjusting the tension on the belt so i can now that i've loosened that i can do that like that so that's quite nice but unfortunately it seems like this plate and that hinge bit are kind of spot welded to the motor casing so i don't think i'm really going to be able to use that and i'll have to come up with something on my own okay now that i have everything stripped down to the minimum or at least to you know all the parts that i'm going to take off it i'm starting to change my mind because what i've noticed i mean change my mind about where the motor should go over here because what i notice with this goes on there um but if i turn it up that way and i put this on here somehow if i was able to get that lined up perfectly and attached it doesn't really need the belt um because i can control the speed of this quite nicely direct drive it might actually be better uh come to think of it but all i need to do now is stop this bit from turning so it's already in the right position it needs to be so all i need to do is maybe use these screws here build up something preferably made from steel to come around here and just resist this torque on there it doesn't need to hold it up against gravity doesn't need to hold it in the xy position or anything like that all it does is all it needs to do is resist the torque which makes it actually fairly easy to do it's going to be quite a lot of talk but that's all it needs to do so i think i might just try and use these screw holes here they're not very deep because these were just the ones that were used to hold on the um the cover for the belt to stop you from putting your fingers in there but i think between the four of them they they should be good enough to do that problem is how how am i going to get that nicely lined up and stuck down is the probably the biggest problem of this whole thing i salvaged this quite nice switch along the way so maybe i could use that for my cnc machine somewhere okay so that's really hard to get out and i've seen people do it you just sort of stand on the sides and then pull with something like that securely grip to the middle and i was giving that a try and it just sort of felt like i was going to do myself an injury if i persisted with it really stuck in there it's just the magnets but it's amazing how strong they are so i decided not to do that i can tell you it's definitely not a job for sandals and as i'm listening to this noise of the cnc machine droning away over there it occurred to me that since i have so much aluminium plate i could just make an adapter to go between that and the other piece here and that will solve solve my other problem of how to get the alignment perfect because if i make one side just big enough to fit over there and the other side just big enough to fit over the front of this then the alignment should be good and it's not going to be quite so easy on here because it slopes up like that it's really kind of inconvenient so i'd have to make one side to try and fit into there but it's slightly rounded see so yeah and then the only thing that a screw would have to bite into is this little little ridge here which is only like four or five mil wide so that's not really that great either um it's probably the best i can do and it would solve my alignment issues quite nicely it's also a little bit a little bit tall so from here to where i'd have to bring it down to i'd probably have to have three layers of my six mil plate to do that which is uh yeah i'll give it a try but i can make it an mdf first uh and do like a test mock-up test fit thing so that's what i'll do i just thought it might be wise to check what sort of performance we can expect from these motors before i commit to a certain type of mounting while these can be made to turn extremely slowly like that i'm just using a ibus input for the hoverboard hack i'll put a link to this stuff in the description if you want um yeah it's really nice and smooth and quiet and powerful so yeah you can get make them to go very very slow and they all are also very very strong like you could probably um tip this whole vice forwards if i was strong enough to grab hold of this and hold it here and then put it up to about half throttle but the problem is you can't really get slow and strong at the same time at least not that kind of slow which is what we want so if i use the trim on my radio to get it to that point see that's kind of what we want there and i'm not not doing anything on the radio there but at this speed i can easily stop it like i'm not even really trying one finger so unfortunately how fast does it have to go before it's now so i don't think direct drive is going to work we're going to have to gear this down so that we can get the speed that we want at the torque that we want which is kind of a bummer oh sorry my bad i was using the wrong mode there uh it's been about a year since i was last playing around with one of these things like i just set a couple of them up to check that they would flash the program correctly and then i wanted to try just radio control driving one around the backyard just to see see how they worked but that was all about a year ago and for some reason i forgot that the default mode is in close as an open loop mode where it just increases the voltage according to whatever you're telling it to how fast you want it to go it's not closed loop so i change the mode to a velocity control or speed control and for most intents and purposes kind of works the same until you want to do this so let's it's very sensitive now on the okay so check this out two clicks of trim two clicks of trim starts turning right and i'm not doing anything here now but the difference is it's uh actually oh it's slipping out of the vice unfortunately there but you can see that that was um putting out a lot more torque even at that low speed than we saw yesterday so it's just because i was using the wrong mode we should be using closed loop mode because these things do have all encoders of course okay so here's my two adapter plates that i made out of mdf it's possible that mdf might be sufficient so i'll give it a try first and then if they break well make them out of aluminium so this is 12 millimeters and this would have to be two i only have six millimeter aluminium so i'd have to make two the same of this one uh that's also six there and this one has a slight bevel in here i've just filed that off for now um because the reason we have that is that on the front here there's a sort of a angled bit there and it sits in there quite nicely now due to my filing so i just cripped up on it really slowly with the file so that it just sits in there and it should be nice and centered and it's level uh so before i did the filing when you put this on it doesn't sit straight it sort of wants to slip one way or the other so that's what i mean by i just crept up on it and now so the filing is just enough to take it so that it sits flat it should be in the middle i think and then this other piece over here has the pulley bit on it and that's a nice snug fit there too i was trying this yesterday and some reason yesterday the machine wasn't quite square and i was getting a tiny little bit of an oval here but then i tried it again today and it's giving me nice circles which is a little bit weird but i prefer it this way okay so then it will go on there and everything should be nice and centered unfortunately though i have a bit of a problem in that i forgot that i don't really have any four millimeter screws that are going to be long enough to do that job there so i have to put this aside for a while because it's christmas holidays at the moment all the shops are closed um so i'll just have to go and do something else and come back to this later let's go a bit faster yeah it's running great well even though i'm not going to be able to finish this today without the longer four millimeter bolts i went ahead and made the holes in here anyway and threaded those tap those and the ones on the bottom as well like that it's really easy to get all these in the right place when you have a proper transfer punch um i picked these up a while ago and haven't really used them that much but just uh actually i think this is the first time you use them but man they're perfect they just get everything in just the right spot and these holes here um they were about as far in as i could have gone on that side as we'll see there maybe you can see even they were just grazing the wall there so i think it's probably about as far in as they could go and they couldn't really be five millimeter ones um so yeah i'm just gonna have to wait till i get the longer four mil once to do that anyway why have i got this sitting on the cnc machine here well it's sitting flat there at the moment but that's only because these bolts here i only have four of them in the other two are the other four i don't have in and that's because i kind of forgot that the four millimeter stick out of the head there is going to collide with this so if i had put all of these bolts in it would just kind of sit there and rock like that because it wouldn't be able to go all the way down the reason it goes down with four of them though is because there's actually a difference in height here the black part is about one millimeter below the silver part and you can see i've marked here where those four bolts are colliding and my first instinct was to um get a four millimeter counter bore so that i could make that a little bit lower or since it's mdf i could even do that with a sharp knife soft enough just sort of gouge it out a little bit but then i remembered again that i have this large cnc router here now it's taking a while to sink in to my brain the new capabilities i have with this thing but anyway i thought i'll just put it on here and raise it up a bit there because the gantry clearance is 16 centimeters and this is about i think it's uh about 13 at the top of this and i had to lift the spindle up a few pegs on here to get it below to get the cutting head to just sort of poke out that much which is enough and it's not clamped down or anything i'm just going to uh hold it by hand and i'm not going to write a program for this i'm just going to manually move the head around actually you know what i could probably just slide it like this i wouldn't even have to use a computer i think i will um use the machine to move it because that will make it move at the right speed so that should probably do it aluminium all over my hand okay so now i have all eight bolts in there and it sits flat whoops to get it in the right place yeah it still needs to be i've got these marks to line it up anyway it's um it's all sitting nice and flat now [Music] so i'm thinking i can do something with this old piece of mild steel probably bolt it on there and chop the back part off and make that part of the vertical or something okay so that gives me a nice base to build a little bit more structure on top of there and it doesn't collide with my pulley wheel these hoverboard motors are usually mounted in the hoverboard by uh in the main chassis will be sort of a half cylindrical cut out and then this bit will clamp onto that flat side there like that to stop it from turning and this is conveniently sized kind of about the same as that so i'm just going to mount that well we'll forget about the cylindrical side we're not going to have a cylindrical cutout here but the cylindrical side will be just flat against that and then this will clamp clamp on top and that should stop it from turning just fine okay that's that down there it's a nice solid connection these things so the only thing left to do now for this construction part of it at least is to put a vertical piece in here okay have this just grazing the top of there it's nicely trimmed and this time when i weld this joint i'm not going to put my clamp here like i did just before because if i do that this side is going to lift up a tiny bit i don't know if you can see it oh does it maybe it doesn't i think it might so i'm going to hold it down just lightly clamp it on this part because that's where i want to be like concentric to everything else so it's just clamped a little bit there and turned out perfect actually um it's only just touching one little bit there so i can easily build weld across there but the touching of this is not really interfering with any alignment so that's just perfect okay so it's mostly welded into place at least good enough i'm going to take it off and weld in that little bit there that i can't reach as it is so one thing i hadn't considered is how easy it would be to get this motor in and out now that the structure is holding it from the top and the bottom at the same time and fortunately it's not going to be too hard the motor itself doesn't really have enough room to lift out by itself like that but to get the motor out you're going to have to undo all of these 10 screws around the side here anyway and when you do that the ring comes with it so you can get it out like that okay so that's done and i think it turned out all right uh if you notice that it's welded crooked like that it's supposed to be because uh when you put that bottom one straight this has to be the center of the axis as you look down it like that so this one has to be quite a bit crooked and i just put this one like halfway in between to stagger it so that the welds would like have as much contact as possible or the world's contact of the welds would be about the same in at the top and the bottom anyway um yeah so that's pretty much done i'll put some paint on that and now we've got to go and figure out the uh programming side of it don't we oh actually there's a couple more things i have to do here one is to chop that shorter and the other is to take the spring out of here because i don't think that's going to be desirable we we just sort of want to have it moving and it's going to move with gravity unfortunately it'd be nice if we could counterweight it so it just sort of stayed where we put it but anyway the spring definitely has to go and i'm sure that somebody's already writing a comment to tell me that a drill press truck is not ideal for doing this because it doesn't have these square bits in here like you would normally have for a tap holder um so that these taps at the top of the tap is like a square bit that fits into there so you can get a really good talk on it while you're twisting and i don't know probably might have to do something about this but i want to try it first because i'm only doing aluminium and i'm only going up to m8 this is the largest one that i'll be using here um so hopefully with this just plain old drill bit arbor or chuck yeah it's a chuck isn't it hopefully it'll get through aluminium with that size tap okay so i'm just putting that one in there and i'm judging how how high i want to have this before i chop it off i have a feeling this is going to spring out and something's going to fly out so let's do it carefully no oh yeah yeah yeah there we go oh that wasn't too violent i thought that maybe if i just sprung this a little less tightly i could get the result that i was talking about before so just to counteract gravity but unfortunately all that does is it just gives it a new target point so instead of trying to go all the way up it tries to sit in the middle now i put it there it goes up to the middle if i put it at the top it goes to the middle as well so it's not really now it just wants to go here it's not really what i wanted there we go it's tiny so with this m8 in there it's got about eight millimeters of clearance and this doesn't seem like much but the smaller taps like this one like m4 is probably the smallest i'd used with it and these are shorter so i don't want them to be starting too far up because then this needs to wind down more and this thing's not very good the bearings are like cheapy ones i don't know exactly what the problem is but the further down the further down you let it go like that uh the more wobbly it gets so want to kind of use it at the top of this range as much as possible and if i do use larger ones that need to have more clearance you can just put some mdf or whatever under the base of it there and you can easily get higher if you want to okay i still don't have all the bolts i need but i thought i'd put it together here with the motor on just to have a check and see how things are going at this point and it's all right at low speed it gets a bit wobbly at high speed this is about a quarter speed probably here uh so when i put up to high speed i actually have to hold hold this bit at the top so it doesn't fall off but full speed looks like this it's a bit wobbly and other direction that's not great but it doesn't worry me too much because mainly tapping is what i wanted to use this for and at the slow speed it's fine and yeah even without the bolts there i i can't stop it by holding here and at first i was puzzled like why is there so much torque even though this is not held together because i thought this would slip around but then it occurred to me that the the front of the hoverboard motor where i uh made those little recesses for the bolt heads as the bolts turn they're going to get stuck on the sides of those recesses and then we get quite a lot of talk oh yeah and this is another problem that's now becoming more annoying is that the the dead zone doesn't really exist it wasn't apparent when you're in the voltage setting so now we're doing the closed loop speed target when you're in the voltage setting as as long as the voltage goes below a certain point the motor's not going to move but what's happening now is it thinks it's being commanded to move a tiny little bit just because the potentiometer in here isn't perfectly centered and you can sort of twiddle with it a bit to get it to stop but obviously this is not ideal so um when i make my actual control system for this i'm gonna have to make sure that instead of using pwm or ppm or anything like that i'm gonna have to use a serial input like ibus which is what i'm gonna do so that i can give it a an actual number instead of just the timing based number so we'll be able to fix that when we do the real control and another thing i noticed now that it's set up like this is that i can just get it to stop when you turn it because it has that velocity target from the closed loop it it resists you turning it and it actually tries to come back to that position more or less it doesn't quite perfectly get there and it would also be nice if we could if we could turn this breaking off somehow there's probably a way to do that i don't think i'll bother with that really but it might be convenient sometimes to be able to just turn it by hand to maybe retract if it's got a bit stuck and you just want to do it carefully manually instead of relying on the motor to do it i know this is hardly a complete product yet but i just wanted to try tapping a m8 hole through this six millimeter aluminium okay let's start with this and that vise is not fixed there so it's going to move around but it won't move far there we go something's slipping oh okay so now this is slipping yeah oh well that's not going to work looks like we do need those bolts there after all huh so this is not such good news i decided to turn the rest of it by hand just by turning the motor and now we can see that the chuck is also slipping on the tap i really did not want to see that so that is annoying and it's not even that much uh not much not even that much force that i'm putting into it ah it retracts quite nicely at least okay so i did another shopping trip today and i got the longer m4 bolts that i needed to make the adapter plate gripped properly and i set that all up and i took this out to the garage to connect it all up again very very excited about how it was all going to suddenly work and then i spent the next hour killing not one but two of these hoverboard controllers fortunately i have a third so the problem with the first one was that this is the one that i set up a year ago and i put it into a box with a bunch of other stuff and i just kind of threw stuff in on top of it and some of that stuff was little screws and bolts and somehow for the past week there was a little screw lodged in there between those caps and i didn't notice it i did notice that this was behaving a little bit strangely like quite often you turn the power button on and nothing would happen and then other times it would work and then today when i was setting it up it started turning itself on and i thought that's extremely strange and then i saw a little bit of a spark down here and basically that was the end of that and i'm not exactly sure what died there but i think it's probably the micro microcontroller itself oh actually that's the second one i killed so that's the first one i killed there then the second one here um so i took this out of another hoverboard and see that red pin header there with the four pins on it i soldered that on to connect my stm32 like software debug like a dongle thingy for flashing and i did that by obviously taking it off the board and soldering in from the back here and as i was doing that the second pin from the bottom just as i started to solder it was a huge spark and i thought uh oh and no i didn't have the battery connected or anything it was just like this and the only thing that was touching it was the tip of the soldering iron and probably the solder itself as i was poking it in but there was no power but um these things have large caps here and the problem is that even after you disconnect it from the power there's still like 40 volts or something at some times across these bits here so this is just a huge bank of capacitance so i thought i might just mention this this video is not supposed to be about hoverboard controllers i wasn't really going to talk about these at all actually because there's so much other information and videos and stuff on youtube about them but i have not seen this mentioned elsewhere so we'll just mention it this is the third one that i also soldered those pins on again but before i did that i used a little resistor to touch across here and i kept an eye on the voltage you can just use a voltmeter on there to see what the voltage is see 36 volts there's no battery anywhere here and it's been like that for about 10 minutes so it can stay high voltage there for quite a long time and there's enough energy in those caps to kill the microcontroller obviously but what i did this time before doing my soldering was yeah just put a resistor on there keep an eye on the voltage when it goes to about one or two volts then just touch across it with a screwdriver to get it to zero i don't think it's a good idea to touch across with the screwdriver straight away because you'd still get a big spark it's probably not going to go through the microcontroller but i just don't like big sparks you know anyway so we're back up and running with this one okay oh it's good no problem i wonder why okay okay maybe last time i just didn't have this chap tightened up very well as i took it out and put it back in and tightened it again and discovered that one of my a weak point in my design is that now it's hard to get this in here because there's no space sort of have to do it over there that's not too bad but that's what i'm saying about it might be annoying that now you can't grab this by hand and turn it because it's it's break so to turn it conveniently i'd have to turn it off now i can put it wherever i like and my key can go in a more or less convenient place um but yeah torque was fine the adapter plate seems to be perfectly fine looks like we tapped the hole okay one issue i did discover though was um after i put these bolts in here so that now the mdf and the motor are securely connected to each other we're getting quite a bit of wobble in the um well at speed we do anyway i don't know if you can see that too well if you look at the edge of the edge of the platform that's sitting on there so it's sort of bubbling up and down so it wasn't doing that until i tightened the motor and the mdf together it's not bad and it's only going to be an issue at speed oh yeah once you get over a certain speed it's sort of the resonance sort of cancels out a little bit and it's not not as bad as it is at half speed oh you could still do drilling like that [Music] that works there we go so it's a decently tapped hole with no elbow grease required oh okay drills no problem too so i've sorted out how i'm going to control this thing and i think i'll just show you a little bit of that and then finish the video because it's getting quite long and we've pretty much answered the main question at least for me which was is this hoverboard motor even feasible and should we use it direct drive or belt drive or something like that and i think we've answered that so there's not really a whole lot more information to be gained by watching me set this up should be a foregone conclusion that iforce 2d is capable of setting up something to make this work but i'm going to use the s bus mixer so if people watching are interested in sbas mixer you might find the rest of this video interesting otherwise if you just want to see this machine working um keep an eye out for my upcoming another diy cnc router build video series that's ongoing at the moment i think i just uploaded part 7 so part 8 is where this machine will start to show up anyway for the rest of us who are still watching the way i want to control this machine is i want to have a two position switch like this and that's going to decide whether i want to do drilling or tapping and then i have a three position switch and this is going to be my direction so one way is going to be to advance or go into the material other direction is going to be to retreat or pull out of the material and then in the middle we're going to do nothing and then i'm going to have two dials for controlling the speed one is the speed when we're drilling that's pretty much just going to be full speed all the time i think and the other one was the speed when we're tapping which is pretty much going to be about one-third speed and then when we're tapping i want to have it so that it automatically goes in for say two or three revolutions and then it backs off by half a revolution or something like that and these two are going to be to control that so one is the duration and one is the percentage of how much is in and how much is out so this one here will be um we don't have a stepper motor unfortunately if we had a stepper motor we could say explicitly i want you to do two turns and then a half a turn back but since we don't have a stepper motor we're just going to have to use time seconds for example so let's say we want to go forward four three seconds and then back for one second then this dial would set the total time to be four seconds for that for that cycle and then within that cycle we want to say with this other dial what percentage of the time should be spent going forward and backwards so if i put this halfway like that it would be two seconds forward two seconds backwards most likely i'm going to put that to about 10 to 15 or something like that so the way these hoverboard motors are controlled at least with the uh the setup that i'm using the hoverboard hack again i'll put a link in the description to that um it works by the same kind of way that a servo's controlled so in a servo you give it a signal between 1000 and 2000 microseconds and that's what the servo pwm output does and i have actually a servo connected to pin 17 of my sbus mixer at the moment and this value here 0.5 most numbers in the espos mixer system work from zero to one so zero will be all the way left or all the way low and one will be all the way high for example and by the way if you're watching this in the future this thing might not be called s bus mixer i'm really i really hate that name but i still can't think of anything better for the time being so if we just look over on my camera here we'll see this is a servo it's over all the way over in one position at the moment because i forgot to upload that before i started but there we go so what i just did there is i uploaded this value 0.5 and that's going to actually be halfway between here so 1500 microseconds is what that server just did there and obviously that's not very convenient if you want to test things in real time because you have to keep going upload like this but i can do 0.75 or whatever and upload that so what i'd rather do is this tweak number thing which we'll see a lot of in the next little bit that's why i wanted to explain this here but i can connect that to there and then i can use this slider to change that value in real time unfortunately it has taken the value that was there when i connected so my low is going to be 0.25 my high is going to be 1.25 if i type a number in here explicitly it will then become that number will become in the middle of my range so now i've got it from zero to one and you can see hopefully you can see in the bottom there it's a little bit small probably on your screen but the servo is moving from left to right as they do that now let me just put it back in the middle here and i'll zoom out a bit now the way that we want to control the hoverboard motor as i mentioned earlier we don't really want to use pwm because that relies on timing and you get a little bit of jitter and it's hard to send a perfect zero or in this case a perfect 0.5 like we want it to be 0.5 to stop it otherwise if we get a value like this 0.500 or something something it's going to move very very slowly which is not ideal in this case especially if we're trying to change the drill or the tap bit or anything like that so what i'm using here is a serial rc output which is in this case ibus and that's set up over here in a different section um so that that there dictates whether it's going to be ibus or s bus uh let's just go back to that and this is also going to output 0.5 and field 1 is aileron probably i'm not sure what it is but in this case it just controls the speed of the hoverboard so we can also connect that to our tweak number and i think if everything works now yeah we can see that 0.5 will stop the motor and if i can't get it see what i mean if i can't get it exactly to 0.5 it moves a little bit like that that's why you have to use ibus for this instead of pwm or ppm or something that's timing based anyway all the way over there it's full speed that direction and then all the way over there is full speed in that direction you can see the servo is using the same same signal as well so let me just put that back to there all right so now that i've hopefully pulled you in with this rather simple discussion what i'm going to do is disconnect this here and connect it to my actual program which is this one now don't worry too much about this i don't think i'll really explain it but i did just want to show you the fact that we have these tweak number things all over the place and you should recognize what they mean now too so we have a duration dial and we have a direction switch which is a three position switch that's either going to be advanced retract or nothing actually the nothing should be in the middle because the middle position does nothing that's why it's doing nothing right now and then we have some other ones so we have the the reverse percentage and then we have the mode switch so this is a two position switch for drilling or tapping and then down here we have our two speed dials and drill speed probably can go faster and i think i had to set up what looked what seemed just right so what i'm using these for here is a stand-in for a analog input so if i go to nodes here in the future what i'll actually be doing is i'll be replacing these drill speed for example my drill speed dial is going to be disconnected from there and this will have a physical pin with one of those dials connected to it i'm not doing that just yet so let me put it back but that's that's what i'm going to do in the future but for the time being well i'm just sitting here at my computer and i don't have any of my hardware connected ready to try this is a great way to do like a virtual dial uh so let's see if this is going to work it might not might need to be uploaded let's see what i can get here direction switch okay so i have to upload this one more time because i changed it before oh there we go all right so let me just reacquaint myself i was doing this yesterday um so in the low position so anything anything less than halfway on this two position switch input when i do my dialing my direction forward if this goes over and you can see i've got my tests here greater than 0.75 or less than 0.25 so if this one goes over 0.75 it's considered that the switch is in the forward position for direction and we get full speed forward in that direction otherwise if it's in the middle region we get nothing and full speed backward i can't think of a situation when i'd ever use drill full speed backward but i mean i just put it in there anyway and then if we change my mode switch to tapping mode which is going to be all the way over there and then we do my direction switch again now we'll see that it's much slower because it's using a separate speed setting from one of those other dials and i think it's uh i forget how many seconds that is there but you can see it's going forward for a while in one direction then it stops and goes just a little bit back like that and it's doing that automatically so my thinking is that i'll just sit there and watch it until it gets either all the way through depending on what i'm doing or until it gets to a point for example what i'm trying to do probably tomorrow i want to tap holes only down to about 10 or 11 millimeters and then i want to stop it and then in the other direction it just goes all the way without reversing at all just just all the way in one direction um so the other dials there i don't think we'll need to play with those but basically we have a duration oh yeah let's let's play with that a little bit so we'll go forward tapping and then i'll just reduce my duration a lot all the way down here so you can see that cycle is much quicker doesn't get to go forward much and then it does a little back and we'll just increase that a bit again i don't know if this is going to be practical by the way that's why i thought i might have these dials on there so i can change it and play around the other thing that's quite useful with these tweak nodes that i'm using is that i might not want to have a dial but i still want to sit here and figure out what kind of a number i might want to use like i can't remember what i had before but it was pretty good so these tweaks are just good for tweaking things funny that uh so my tap speed is here it's at quarter speed roughly we can make it tap quicker don't think we oh actually that might not be too bad you know see these this is what we don't know if this was going through a six millimeter aluminum plate that speed might be just fine but through the 12 millimeter plate might be a bit might be a bit fast also depends what size of thread that you're tapping and then the drill speed we saw that before and then the tap reverse percentage so if we put this to half way it's going to be equal in both directions anyway i think you get the idea and anybody who's still watching this video well done um yeah so like i say i'll put all this together and this will probably be showing up in part eight of my another diy cnc router series whenever that comes out we don't know but i thought i might just upload this a little bit earlier rather than later so that people have something to watch over the new year while they're relaxing holidays and stuff anyway that's all from me from now happy new year and uh see you next time

Channel: iforce2d

Views: 65,160

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Id: Q_CRQSf-g7Q

Length: 47min 10sec (2830 seconds)

Published: Thu Dec 30 2021