Official iPhone 6s Plus Display Assembly Replacement Guide - iCracked.com

[Music] hello eyck fans today we're going to cover the 6s plus how to replace the display assembly some of the first things that we want to do is to check all functions of the phone to make sure that there's nothing else wrong with it before we go and replace the display so you see the the phone unlocked so I know my touch ID is working so next thing I want to do is go ahead and test Force Touch by applying generous pressure on a force touch enabled app you'll see this drop- down menu that lets me know the force touch is working now with the light touch I can test the digitizer by grabbing an icon and moving it completely around the screen make sure there's no drops now be cautious if your screen is badly cracked you don't want to cut or slice your fingers performing this test one of the other things we wanted to show you is let's make sure that we actually have a 6S Plus on the back of the phone you'll see an engraved s located right here just to Ure that you have the correct display for the phone that you have next thing I'm going to do is I'm going to go ahead and test the power button it works the home button I'm going to close any apps I may have open just to avoid any iOS issues make sure my volume up volume down work that my mute works and I get that vibrate and when you also test the force touch you want to make sure that you get that vibration indicating Force touch is enabled it's just a quick bump so now I'm going to open up my camera make sure my rear camera works and record a video to test the rear camera and the rear microphone testing 1 2 3 3 2 1 I'm going to flip the camera around and perform the same test test 1 2 3 3 2 1 and then go back and play those Test 2 3 3 so now I know the loudspeaker and the rear camera the front camera and the front microphone are working testing 2 the rear camera rear microphone and loud speaker again are showing to be working next I'm going to pull up voice memo so I can test the two bottom microphones testing 1 two 3 3 2 1 then I'll go ahead and play that back testing one two 3 3 2 1 now the next we want to test the proximity and ambient light sensor those two work hand in hand so when you put the handset up to your ear the screen will shut off by hitting the icon here and switching it over so that it's white that puts it in ear speaker mode and if you mimic it being next to your ear the screen will go dark and I also heard the audio coming out of the ear speaker next I want to go ahead and plug into a charger I want to make sure I get the green battery icon and the lightning bolt indicating that it's charging and I want it to come up at least 1 or 2% so that I know for sure that it's charging and the reason we check this is because if you use aftermarket lightning cables that are not Apple certified these will over time destroy your phone and prevent them from charging so this one check we do to make sure that our charging circuit is fully functional I'm going to go ahead and plug in a set of headphones and play that back and make sure I get audio out of both the right and the left earbud okay and I have audio out of both now I'm satisfied that everything onse it's function it's come up 1% on battery so I know I'm good I'm going to go ahead and disconnect my charger and power down my phone now you want to wait till the phone is completely shut down before you proceed any further but during this time I'll go ahead and cover some of the tools that we're going to use so one thing you you're going to want to have is either a hair dryer or a hot air gun and this going to be used for loosening some of the cables that are adhered to the back side of the glass and also the bezel around the phone has a adhesive gas that surrounds it so we'll have to heat that up to kind of break that adhesive loose be able to lift the screen now inside our kit will give you a fresh set of uh frame adhesive to replace then we'll give you the tools needed to do the repair tools you're going to need is the pentalobe screwdriver to remove the screws at the bottom a Phillips screwdriver a suction cup to lift the screen a nylon ESD safe spudger for disconnecting some of the cables the guitar pick and pry tool for gaining access uh to be able to lift the screen from the bezel because that adhesive there it is pretty strong and lastly we want to check that our new screen is in perfect order now you're going to notice uh temper glass screen protector that's pre-installed on this display so don't be kind of freaked out when you see this it's not part of the glass it can be easily removed if you do not like it okay so I'll begin by removing the pencil LOE screws from the underside of the phone on both the left and right side of the uh charging port then I'm going to take my hot air gun or hair dryer whichever it is you have and I'm going to gently warm up the screen now I'm only doing this enough to where I can still keep my fingers on it and I'm not going to burn it I'm not going to destroy the [Applause] screen I'm going to take the suction cup and place it just just above the home button now if your screen is badly cracked you're going to want to put a couple of layers of tape or a duct piece of duct tape across here to be able to get that uh suction now once I start lifting it's going to start creating a gap here at the bottom and I'm going to take my pry tool and get in there and break that adhesive along the bottom and then come around the corners and go up the left and right side so now that I've got it going you don't want to just rip the screen off there is still cables attached to the display and attached to the logic board so once you start lifting to break that adhesive up I'm going to very gently break the adhesive across the top by gently pulling the screen a little forward till it comes clear then bring it up to a good 90° angle using the Phillips screwdriver the blue one we'll go and remove the two screws holding the battery and charge port retaining bracket to the logic board then remove the bracket itself next I want to disconnect the battery by taking the ESC safe nylon spudger and I'm going to come in right in this corner here over the screw hole post that the screw went through get gently underneath and disconnect the battery the key is is you don't want to dig in here and destroy the connector you want to get in just enough to hit the little shelf here is what I call it for the battery connector and lift it up and get it out of your way now this will remove all voltage from the logic boards to prevent any kind of accidental shock damage next I'm going to remove the five screws for the Emi Shield that's holding down all the cables onto the logic board now it's very important that you keep these screws organized they are different lengths and if you put the incorrect screw into the incorrect hole you could potentially destroy your phone uh by causing damage to the logic board itself next I'm going to remove the plate just by lifting it up and setting it along with the screws and I try to keep the screws in the same pattern that the Shield came out of to keep them well organized now the next thing I want to do is I want to disconnect the three cables so we've got the home button extension and force touch power cable here we've got the front-facing camera and accessory cable and then underneath that is the LCD and digitizer combined cable now when disconnecting these it's very important that you come in from the edge alongside the battery this will prevent you from from accidentally damaging some of these small components on the logic board itself so I'm going to come in and disconnect the first cable then the second cable then come on the outside edge and disconnect the third cable which will now enable me to remove the display from the frame now before I go any further I want to go ahead and remove all the remaining adhesive left within the frame I use this pry tool or you could use the spudger to kind of push it around you just want to make sure that all the old adhesive is removed so that the new adhesive can be applied without any problems you notice I'm not using any metal tools because if you use a metal tool and you'd accidentally slip and puncture the battery it will smoke and potentially start a fire you just take your time there no need to be in a hurry when removing this adhesive we don't want to risk potentially slipping and damaging anything inside the phone now when you get up on this side here you want to be very close and cognizant about not slipping off and damaging the connectors on the logic board itself usually the top and bottom adhesive will come off with the display but the sides will remain so now I've got all that adhesive removed so I'm prepared for when I go to put the new display back on so we'll start off by removing the bracket that holds the front-facing camera and ear speaker assembly into the bezel there's three Phillip screws now remove the bracket itself I'm going to very gently lift the front-facing camera up enough to remove the ear speaker you don't want to pull this cable back too far as there's solder joints right here that connect the microphone and the front-facing camera all together into a singular cable next I'm going to go ahead and remove the two fillips screws located at the bottom for the home button bracket then go and remove the bracket set it aside along with your screws so you're going to see the home button with the flex cable which is connected here to the home button extension and force touch cable I'm going to come in here and very gently disconnect the cable then roll it over I'm going to take the flat end of my nylon spudger and very gently come up under this cable but this area is held in with some adhesive so we want to warm up that adhesive so it comes off without ripping or damaging the cable so again I'm going to take the hot air gun or hair dryer and I'm going to heat this area of the screen on the inside you're only doing it just a dab cuz you don't want to damage the cable itself once that's nice and warmed I should be able to get under here and slide my cable off just like that without damaging it I'm going to take the flat end of the spudger come up underneath and push the home button out and set it aside the next thing I'm going to do is remove the seven screws holding the thermal plate onto the bezel now the top screw here is in it at a 90° angle so go ahead and remove that one first then I'll continue by removing the remaining six screws there's three on the left and three on the right now I can go ahead and lift and remove the thermal plate and set it aside now we still have the front-facing camera and microphone to remove so we're going to once again flip the display over heat it up with the hairdryer hot air gun to loosen that adhesive up I can then very gently lift this cable up and gain access you see here you've got the ambient light sensor and their proximity sensor so I'm going to take the pointed end of the nylon spudger come up along the front camera bracket and very gently lift that out of the housing giving me access to the microphone right here I can now take the flat end of the nylon spudger come up underneath and Slide the microphone off if it fights you at all go ahead and reheat the screen typically they don't uh it's not held on with a whole of adhesive had this been a black screen inside this area where the ambient light sensor sits you're going to see a white square in here that's called the ambient light sensor filter that will have to be removed and transferred over to the new screen so that the proximity and ambient light sensors work correctly that could be easily done with a pair of tweezers or using the flathead screwdriver that came in your kit and nudging it up and remove it it's not held in with really any adhesive and it should come off readily and very easily so now the old screen has everything removed and I'm gonna go ahead and prepare the new display to accept all the parts now that we have the new display we'll go ahead and remove the anti-static cover over the back take a look in this area here where the force touch sensor is if there's a piece of tape on there go ahead and remove that as well the first thing I'm going to do is go ahead and set the thermal plate back on ensuring that the little flap here for the LCD and digitizer rests underneath the thermal plate and you also want to make sure that the controller here doesn't get caught under the thermal plate up here at the top of the thermal plate where the 90° screw goes in you want to make sure that it drops between the bracket built into the bezel and the front-facing camera bracket and then set it down and line it I'll go ahead and install the 90° screw first now I'm going to start the thread but I'm not going to tighten it all the way I'm going to wait till all seven screws are inserted before I fully tighten all the screws to ensure that the thermal plate is aligned and set in correctly once the last screw is inserted I'll go back and tighten all seven screws now I'm apply I'm not applying any downward force on the thermal plate I'm just simply resting my fingers on there now that thermal plate is installed I'm going to go ahead and take the home button I'm going to set it back in the hole at the bottom of the phone and then set the cable down so that the two circles in the cable will drop over the two alignment pins in the bezel then I'll go ahead and reconnect the home button to the home button extension cable and you'll fill it click and snap into place and I'll take the retaining bracket set it down reinsert and tighten the two Phillips screws that will hold it into the bezel now that that's completed next we're going to reattach the microphone and the front-facing camera by setting the proximity and the ambient light sensor into the body so you're going to notice down here there's a little clear sheet that has to be removed that covers the adhesive that the micro microphone rest on then we're going to take the microphone itself you're going to see a pin here in the bezel and a little slat that this will all drop into to correctly align now that the microphone is set down you want to make sure that the pin is pass through the cable and the cables come around this little line here looking exactly like that then I'll take the cable and set the proximity sensor and ambient light sensor into place but one thing I want to check is on the ambient light sensor you want to make sure this little rubber uh piece remained with there uh sometimes it stays behind not very often but if it has remained on the original screen then go ahead and be a good time to put it back on here these pieces should just drop right down in and it should feel perfectly flush with your fingers crossed here I'm going to take the ear speaker you're going to see this uh bottom opening here the oval will drop into the rubber boot here and you should feel it drop in there we go so that's sitting nice and flat then I could take the front camera set it into its housing and take the cable down now you're going to notice on the ear speaker itself there's also two plastic pins that will pass through the flex cable here and here to make sure that the four contact make contacts on the underside of the cable then take the ear speaker bracket and place it over all these components here now you want to make sure those same pins have passed through the cable and have come up through through the a speaker bracket itself and then we'll insert and tighten the three screws I like to start with the center screw so that it holds everything in place and keeps it aligned I didn't fully tighten it I'm going to wait till all three are inserted before I fully tighten the cable the bracket to the bezel now I'm going to again verify that the plastic pins have come up through the metal bracket and then tighten the screws down until they stop you don't want to force these you don't want to overtighten them if you do overtighten them it will damage the cable and you'll get a crackly or no sound at all through your ear speaker so you just run these until they stop just like that now before I put the display back on the phone I want to go ahead and replace the adhesive you're going to take your adhesive set there's two pieces you have a large outer piece and a smaller inner piece just like this so I'm going to remove the large outer piece giving me access to this now you'll notice on the blue sheet that it looks the same top and bottom but you'll see this cutout right here which goes over the rear-facing camera here so that gives you an idea of how to properly set it in and I'm going to very carefully set it down very slowly bring it down so that everything aligns then set it inside the frame I'm going to take the flat end of the nylon spudger and smooth the gasket down against the frame to make sure it's setting correctly and this will remove any creases or bubbles then I can take the top layer and very gently peel this off if any of the uh adhesive starts coming off with it just flatten it back down with the flat end of the spudger there we go now I'm ready to reconnect the display assembly onto the logic board now one thing I want want to do it when you look at the cables you're going to see this hardened area on the flex cable place your finger there and bend the cables backward to where it rests against a thermal plate and this will pre-old the cables and make them easier to install see how it spreads them out like a fan you notice the bottom cable is going to be your home button extension and force touch and then your LCD and digitizer and then your front camera so I'm going to go ahead and connect the home button extension and force touch down and real quickly I want to glance down at the connector on the logic board you're going to see these foam gaskets surrounding each connector make sure none of that has rolled over or fallen into the connector because when you try to connect the flex cable to those connections it'll push that debris down inside that connection C and could cause a few issues such as some of these pins won't be touching where it needs to be so I'm going to go ahead and press this cable down should feel it and hear it set in place I'm going to take the LCD Flex cable and digitizer set it down and connect to the logic board and you should fill it snap on both sides and then the last cable the front-facing camera and accessory cable and connect it now the entire time you're doing this you want to make sure that the gasket hasn't stuck to the screen itself I'm going to take the Emi Shield set it over the cables and hold it down with my finger then I'm going to reinsert and tighten the five Phillips screws that hold the Emi plate to the frame and logic board now on these screws you want to make very sure that you do not overtighten them just run them down until they stop Don't force them don't give them a extra little nudge they have a very close tolerance between the bottom of the screw and the logic board and if you overtighten them it will damage your logic board next I'm going to take the battery Flex cable and set it back into the connector you should feel it snap press down you should feel it's sitting nice and flush take the retaining bracket set it back into place then reinsert and tighten the two screws the longer of the two screws is going to be the one closest to the battery now before we go and set the display inside the frame uh we want to just turn turn it on and make sure everything functions so that we don't destroy that new adhesive that we put inside there so I'm going to go ahead and let it boot up okay now that it's booted up and because uh I have the passcode in order to touch the home button fingerprint uh biometric scanner I had to enter the code I'll turn it on and make sure that yeah that's working so it scanned my fingerprint and unlocked I want to test my front camera and the microphone testing 1 two 3 3 2 1 testing 1 2 3 3 2 1 so the front camera and the microphone are functional home button is functional now test Force touch here we go so I know that's functional I'll go ahead and power down the phone reinsert the screen into the frame and then insert the pencil Lo screws and boot the phone back up now that the phone is powered down I'm going to reinsert the display into the frame you'll notice here at the top you're going to have these notches these slide and grab underneath the frame so I'm going to go ahead and insert those in and the top end of the bezel should be flush with the frame then go down and set the bottom in and then walk your fingers up the left and right side take a look completely around make sure the bezel is nice and level along with the frame I'll go ahead and let it boot back up and then reinsert and tighten the pencil Lo screws at the left and right of the lightning Port now that the phone's booted back on I'm going to once again plug in my charging cable and I want to make sure that my battery percentage increases I get the green battery and the lightning port lightning symbol now I'm going to go through the full functionality of the phone again so I'm going to take my camera take my rear camera recorded video test 1 two 3 32 1 flip the camera around test the front test 1 two 3 3 2 1 and then play those backest 2 3 3 okay so we know that one Works 2 3 3 2 1 and we know the rear microphone and Camera works as well as the loud speaker I'm going to test my Force Touch by grabbing a force touch enabled icon applying a little pressure it should pop up each time and should feel a slight bump in the tactic engine I'm going to grab an icon lightly to make it jiggly then I'm going to test my digitizer all the way around make sure the icon doesn't drop test my home button by double tapping it then once again go to voice memo test 1 2 3 3 2 1 and play back that recording test one two 3 3 two 1 I'll test my headphone jack play that again make sure I get audio out of the left and right earbud okay that's functional and then I'm going to touch the speaker icon to make it white and test the proximity sensor the screen should shut off just like that make sure my volume up volume down work and my mute switch now that I'm satisfied with the repair of my iPhone 6s plus and I have a shiny new screen remember to go to i.com for all your iPhone iPad and iPod needs

Channel: iCracked

Views: 261,973

Keywords: iCracked, iDevice, iTech, iPhone, iPad, iTouch, Apple

Id: 38HQ5rMShmY

Length: 37min 3sec (2223 seconds)

Published: Mon Jan 04 2016