Hello. I'm Odin. And today I'm going to make another new prop for the Loki television series. It's the variant Loki, Well, don't call her that. It's Sylvie's sword. I created my paper pattern from that one shot, that one scene that's in the train fight in episode three. Now to make my pattern, I traced a screen capture and escape and then printed it out full size. So I'm grateful that there's one shot in the dining car or the bar car on the train. After Sylvie gets her sword stuck on the table, she reaches over and pulls it out. There's just a couple of frames before she grabs the handle that you can see all the details of the blade in its entirety. One shot, thank you Disney, appreciate that. I traced the blade onto some four millimeter What the Foam then cut around the drawing and glued over a second piece of four millimeter foam. I use contact cement to stick the layers together. And even this early in the build, I was careful to lay the pieces down flat because if I pull just a little bit on the top layer, I can curve the blade and that's just not easy to fix later. I don't want to cut this out yet. I want to cut out the next pieces and glue all them on and then cut all the layers together. That's what I want to do. I cut down my pattern, just the upper flat portion of the blade is what I want. Next, I traced the new cut over my foam which gives me an outline where the next layer needs to go. I was thinking that I would glue on the two millimeter and cardboard layer first, but then I can't glue the other side on. I only have the blade drawing on this one topside, so I may as well cut off the centre layers. Now, I traced to more blades on some two millimeter foam with another full pattern print out and use the cut down pattern to mark where the flat blade is and where the sharp edges go. Then I can cut off my two millimeter layer pieces. So I got my core piece. I have my two outside pieces. What I'm gonna need to do in order to make sure that my foam sword actually behaves like a sword and not like a piece of foam is put some sort of core into it. What I'm going to use is a bit of eight millimeter graphite rod. I mark where I want the rod to go in the blade, which is kind of behind the flat sides and then down into the grip. And I really shouldn't call it rod. It's hollow. So it's actually a tube with a longer ruler. I cut the eight millimeter wide channel out of my eight millimeter thick foam and the graphite tube is a perfect fit. The two millimeter layer lays over the hole and everything remains flat. But I don't want to just skin it with the red foam. You can still feel the small divot where the round object to sitting inside of the square hole. So to back that properly , I'm going to cut a small bit of poster board to go in between the two. But the poster board even isn't gonna be cut just the full red piece. I want to cut it so the poster boards following this dark black line. That way, the red around it will fall away a little bit and make this seem line a little bit bigger. At least that's the thought. I actually cut the cardboard at the line where the flat edge stops and the knife edge starts and I'm going to glue the cardboard to the eight millimeter layer first. Before the glue dries and get sticky. I put the piece that had cut out back into the millimeter blade. That way I know I have everything sitting correctly while sticking the car board to the foam. I can flip the piece over and trace the alignment pattern onto the other side. So I know where to glue and trace the other piece of cardboard. I put some superglue into the center and then glue in the eight millimeter tube and cover the other side with another layer of cardboard. I cut back some of the two millimeter foam. I plan on grinding this area down for the sword edge, so cutting it off now just seemed like a good idea and there's enough material to cover over the cardboard and the small amount of exposed tube that's at the end. Once I have both sides covered with two millimeter foam and cardboard. The blade is very straight and rigid, it's not going to wiggle when brandishing the finished sword. And now is my first round of grinding and sanding with a rotary tool. I smooth out the layers in the back of the blade, making it all flattened level, and then I start sharpening the blade or at least making it look like it sharpened. Since the blade is foam, it'll never really truly be sharp, but it can look the part. The most difficult thing is to keep the grinding stone flat. And what I mean to say by that is to not catch the spinning corner or the edge of the grinding stone, because if I do it'll just cut a groove instantly into the foam. Sometimes you may want to do that on purpose, but I don't really want to do that here, at least not on this edge of the blade. Some stones have around an edge so they don't leave any grooves. But it seems like all the aggressive large grit, stones and Sanders I have do have some sort of corner And it took me about 45 minutes, but I have a good sharp edge on the foam blade. I cut down the pattern again, but this time right to the outside edge of the decorative line that goes on the flat sides. I traced the lines onto the flat of the blade. And then I use a hip curve ruler that Felicia had left in the shop, matching the line as best I can and tracing the line with a wood burning tool. The curve ruler is great. My lines are far more accurate and I don't have that sketchy wavy look of just trying to do this freehand and the inch marks are the same on both sides of the ruler so I can keep the curve the same on both sides of the blade. It's actually called a very form curve rule and the number of the side is 12-124. I cut the pattern down to fit the line that I had just made and poke holes into the points on one of the decorative lines. Using the curve rule, I can connect the dots and carefully freehand the curly ends. There is a second line to the decoration which I do pretty much exactly the same way. Not necessarily some of the most intricate like gingerbread scroll work that I've done, but getting there. As far as doing it with a with a wood burner I think it is, all right. I need to make the grip. That's it. That's the blade. I don't need to do anything like no, I'm forgetting something very important for the blade. I am so ready to be done with the blade. I'm forgetting something very important .
There are runes. There are runes that run right along the bottom edge of the blade. And I'm going to assume they're the same on both sides because so far on the show, we've only gotten a decent close up of this side. So I know exactly what it says on this side, but I'm gonna let's pretend it's symmetrical and just move on. Okay, so let's put the runes on here. I lay the pattern piece where it fits on the blade and poke a pin wherever a line ends on the rune, even if it's in the middle of another line. And then I lay the pattern down where I can see it. And use my wood burner to connect the dots. Now, I don't know what these runes say and some of these seem to be created or fabricated non typical runes. They might just be Marvel Asgardian runes and not really say anything. And I still need to add the runes to the other side of the blade. Now, of course, what I want to do because I have a pattern is turn it over and make it match again. But if I do that, I'll be writing everything backwards. Right ? So let's uh let's not do that. All right about here. I want to start right about there. And I add the same message on the other side. Now, I'm down to the blade, that's all the detail that I'm gonna put into the blade. I need to work on the grip. And the hog's head, by the way the pommel is like a boar or or a hog's head or a bore. I went ahead and made better detailed version of what goes into the grip. There are two large panels in the grip. I cut them out from the pattern, because I want these inset pieces to be six millimeters thick. That'll let them stick out a little, you know, from the rest of the grip, which is cut from four millimeter foam and it's pretty satisfying the place the pieces where they belong. I actually like the idea of this grip and this is pretty much the way it looks in the one still that I've got, that the these centerpieces appear to be slightly raised. Now there's one other thing I definitely see in this particular piece, but I can't see clear enough to actually make a good guess on it. There are more runes on this piece. So in a future episode or some point in the future we might find out that there's something else written here. I have no idea what that is because from the one part that I can see from episode three, I can't see it clear enough, so I'm gonna leave it off because off is gonna be better than wrong. What I want to do is round the inserts over and round the inside where the inserts go and then also I need to cut out the back for the boar's head. So everything fits together. Actually got those parts. So what I need to just glue it together and make it all fit together. The blade is made of four millimeter and two millimeter foam layers and some cardboard. So I can stack six millimeter thick parts and cardboard to get the same thickness. I fold the pattern to mark the cut line on the grip and then another one on the inset piece. Because what I want to do now is cut these use the band saw it so I can put them back together. Why am I saying this? I don't know. As I cut each one, I tried to just erase the pencil line and keep all the portions of each piece, exactly the size that I want them. You see if I cut next to the line, the parts will grow by the thickness of two pencil lines And I'm really happy with this fit. I glued the halves together with contact cement and it made a few registration marks to help me glue it together correctly the first time And the four millim layer still fits right where I want it. So I'm very happy with this pommel around some of the edges of the four millimeter layer, just the parts that are next to the blade and the six millimeter inserts. The edges on the six millimeter insert pieces are also rounded to give them a completed look. It's still satisfying to see these parts fit as well as they do. I marked the pieces for the right side and the left side because I don't want to be trying to figure this all out once they're covered in glue. My first thought is just to glue all the parts right onto the hilt. But then I thought it would be a lot better to get the scroll work applied first because I can just remake a single ruined piece if something goes wrong and I would need to repair the entire sword. I place the pattern onto the four millimeter layer and then push the six millimeter piece into place. Then it's pretty much just as easy as holding the paper still and cutting the scroll lines from the pattern. And it really is just that. But the paper wants to move around which will change the shape of the cuts in the foam. And it took a few minutes and I needed to re sharpen the knife constantly because the paper dulls a hobby knife. But in the end I got all the scroll work completed without any major mistakes. There's some little ones that I can let slide and leave them alone. I remove the inserts and brush the paper crumbs away. I use a heat gun which shrinks the top layer of foam ever so slightly, but it's enough that all the scrollwork cuts that it did will open up and look like etched lines. You've got to keep the heat gun moving and be sure not to cook or burn any part of your foam. I also use the heat gun on the blade, but very quickly. This will help reduce the fuzz that's left over from sanding. And I apply some contact cement to all the pieces and I put the six millimeter inserts in before I placed the grip pieces that way they all sit in the right place when stuck down on to the hilt. If I hadn't, chances are the four millimeter layer well glued down slightly wrong. And then the six millimeter pieces wouldn't fit. I glue the other side on the same way having them marked left and right before I stuck them down was so much easier than having to guess with sticky glue. That will need to be rounded over. That's my honest be... how am I trying to say? That might honestly be a little too thick, but uh because it feels good for my hand um but if I round things off this will probably be good. It's just a little thick because it's still square. So that'll be I'm sure that'll be fine. What I wanna do... I'm very happy with how well the hilt is turning out and that the blade and tip are still so straight now to cover the end grain seems around the sides of the hilt. I cut a 14 millimeter wide strip of two millimeter thick foam and very slowly glue it around all the contours of the hilt. And I was very surprised that 24", it was long enough to go all the way around the hilt. And that makes sure that the foam is sitting right where I want it to be. A little bit of Dremelling and get the sides all rounded down. Yeah, that's gonna... That already feels a whole lot better. That's, that's, that's a sword grip, that feels great. I love the raised part that feels good too, okay, so... I still need to do the boar's head and I still have my paper pattern and on there are a few of the lines for some of the major details that go along the neck. That way I keep both sides of the same right? So I'm gonna be able to just cut this and make a mark and then I can start to carve it. It doesn't need to be a fully dimensional boar because it doesn't look like it is, it looks like it's a relief. So I'm just gonna do that fairly quickly and I think I can actually start putting some putty on this thing. I cut slits into the paper pattern and then mark all the places where I want the edges of the carving to go. I repeat the process one by one, until I have all the marks made on the head. Then I fill in where the neck and hair needs to go. Then I use grinding bits. I picked some of my smallest ones with a rounded end and started to carve out the neck and the head and the jaw line of the boar. I changed bits often depending on the marks that needed to make, but I just continued to carve on the head, follow the lines from my pattern and took little nicks out to make hair and then larger knicks to make eyes on the inside of the ears. When I was happy with the look of the carving, I cut a pair of the tiniest tusks from some two millimeter HD Foam and then super glue them in place. Now I thought maybe adding an eye and the eye socket would help. So I cut most of the pin off of a black glass sewing pin and stuck the remainder into the boars head, mashing it down in place. Oh yeah, yeah, no that helped a lot. That's an eyeball. Yeah, I like that, Keeping it low enough that it looks like an eye and not sticking out like a mouse's eye. With all the carving, scrollwork and edge rounding done on both sides of the hilt. I start to add spackle to the blade. Now all I really want to do is cover over the seam that runs between the two millimeter layer and four millimeter layer of foam. I'm using Alex Fast Dry Flexible Spackle, which dries in about an hour or two and then the whole sword is sealed with a couple of coats of black Plasti Dip spray paint. I could have put more spackle near the runes, but I was afraid that I would have filled them and in a better idea, would have been to spackle the entire blade before cutting in the ruins that way, the full blade would be pretty smooth. I just didn't do that. Joe came in and used the airbrush to add a green metallic color to the blade. He also airbrushed the inset pieces. They're supposed to kind of look jade like and those are the parts that was really concerned about having a really smooth even coat of paint. So the rest of the gold and the grip is just brush painted. Gold is easy enough to work that way. And we didn't have to do any masking on the pre existing green, which could cause problems. I just add a little bit of a dark wash to weather in the lines. And then dry brush more bright gold right back over the scroll work, giving it highlights and more definition. All the materials I used in this video I already had in the shop. I put a list in the description. I'm really happy with the sword. This turned out great, this is so Joe. Thank you very much for all of your help with painting this. This this is... yeah, so airbrushing metallics is definitely the right way to go and I need to make sure that that's what happens more in the future because there are no brush strokes at all. All the, the blade looks great. Um, I'm really enjoying the Loki show. I'm really enjoying having more pieces to the collection. Um and of course I've done some Loki things in the past, but uh if you're enjoying the Loki show, please let me know in the comments. Uh it's definitely my favorite show for where I'm sitting right now. I've got two more episodes to go before the show's over. So even though you may be watching this later on, I haven't seen everything yet. I'm excited to see where it's going to go. But if you want to make yourself your own Sylvie sword, You can because I'm going to take all the blueprints, all the drawings that I used to make this sword. I'm gonna put them in a pdf. There'll be a link in the description. You can download those for free. Uh I made mine at 28". I'm thinking 26 might be a better size because this this fits me really well. Um and that might be a little too big for other people, so you might want to scale it down. But I made it out of What the Foam, I know that you can make this out of HD Foam. You can probably make this out of Sintra because I know there's gonna be lots of different ways you can make Loki props, but this is how Odin Makes. I should get a jet ski. I want to thank Jared Falcon, Anarii Hakala, and all of my Patreon supporters. My Patreon support is the number one thing that makes this show possible. If you like the video, don't forget to subscribe. Have an idea for something for me to make? Please leave a comment below. And if you make any of these projects, you can send me a picture.
