(bubbles popping) Hello, I'm Odin, and today I am going to make another requested prop. It's the Blade of Chaos from God of War. Specifically, God of
War 4, because that way, it will match my Leviathan Axe. Most online sources say the blades are about 25 centimeters long. I printed out some of
the game artwork to be exactly that size, and then
taped the sheets together so I could cut out my pattern. First, I am just tracing
the blade onto a sheet of floor mat foam from
Harbor Freight Tools. This mat is a soft EVA foam,
and is textured on one side. I add contact cement to the smooth side, spreading the cement thinner
with a scrap piece of foam. I add two coats, and once
the cement is mostly dry and ready, then stick the cut out down onto a second piece of foam. I want these blades to
be a little thicker, and this floor mat may
be a little too thick, but it's gonna work fine. I cut the second piece
after I glue them together, because it is easier
than trying to line up two halves perfectly, when contact cement doesn't give you a second chance. Once the parts stick together,
you are stuck with it. I used my Scroll Saw with
a multidirectional blade to cut out the parts. It leaves a rough edge, but
it's really easy to cut out all of these curves that are on the blade. I put the texture on the
outside so I could remove it, and the seam that will
be on the knife edge will be a small as possible. The random orbit sander will work, but my belt sander is much faster. With all the sides smoother,
I cut the beveled knife edge from my pattern, but I leave
two points still attached. That way, I have some reference for what my center should be. You could just eyeball it, and place it where it looks good, but I like
having a point of reference. Everything inside the
line needs to stay flat, and the outside is the sharpened edge. With my Sakaaran Swords
that I made for Thor, I used a little one-inch belt
sander to sharpen the blades, but they were all straight
lines, and a smaller angle. This time, I opted for
cutting out each side by hand with a thin razor knife,
and then using my Dremel, I can smooth out the cut marks. The Blades of Chaos look
a little rough anyway, this is going to help that with the look. I am just using a grinding
stone bit in my Dremel. The sanding drum works
as well, but the stone doesn't remove as much material, and it leaves a smoother surface. I traced where the skulls
and teeth need to be, then I could mark where I
wanted to cut the wooden dowel so I could use it as
a grip for the blades. I mark the center of the
blade and use a small hole saw to cut out the foam to
make room for the grips. Then I'll mark the wood and cut the dowel down to size on my band saw. Even though they are going to be hidden, I sanded the sides down to
be closer to the thickness of the blade. A little Gorilla Glue will hold the wood in place with no problem. The hilt looks like it
is wrapped with some sort of jagged leather, so I
make a simple paper pattern, and cut out 14 pieces of some
two millimeter craft foam. There are seven wraps on each grip, plus some extra around the pommel. I start the wraps at the pommel, so the layers can fall right,
and I try to space them knowing I want seven on each grip. It takes some time to wrap
it all with contact cement, but I won't worry about
them coming undone later. The blades themselves
are not shiny and new. They are battle worn and well, chaotic. First, I take a file and
make some long, deep grooves and cuts into the blades. And then for some even bigger nicks, I just cut out a piece with a razor knife. I just want to make a few. Then I'll use a #125 Dremel
etching bit to carve out a series of cracks at
the base of the blade. This is one detail that is not actually in the first stage for the Blades. The deep cracks start at
stage two, but I liked the way they looked, so I'm gonna
add a couple anyway. Think of this as the
very end of stage one. The blade needs some pitting as well. I use a #191 high-speed cutter, and just bounce it off the
blade to cut little divots all over each of the flat sides. I use a grinding stone bit
again to carve out some details in the grips, just some
engraved lines to keep the foam strips from being too flat. I use a heat gun to seal the foam up, and it shrinks the fuzzy edges. The heat gun also opens
up all the cracks and cuts just a little more, which is good. Some people are happy
with just using a heat gun to close the open cells of the foam, so that they can paint it. I still plan to seal my
project with Plasti-Dip later. To make the skulls, I am going to use a new product called Foam-Mo. This is the first time that
I've ever used an EVA foam clay, and I thought the organic
shapes of the skulls would be a great use. Foam-Mo is an air dry EVA clay, and it does sculpt pretty easily. It's a little spongier
than actual clay and it's not as dense, and it's
not quite as easy to cut. But with a little water, it
sticks easily to EVA foam, and to itself. I am using a tool for wax
sculpting to add wrinkles and to smooth out between pieces. And the back of a
paintbrush for bigger areas. Just roll out a piece, pinch
it, stick it down in place. I just built up each detail,
layering over what I had, Once the Foam-Mo was
actually safe to handle, because I didn't want to squish the side I had already made, I started
working on the other side of each blade. I was really happy with
everything about the skulls, except that back hook on the crossguard. It was really difficult for me
to get a good mechanical look with the Foam-Mo. It took me about 45 minutes
per side on each blade to sculpt the skulls. So it was just over three
and a half hours total. But the clay is clean, it
left no residue on my hands, and it didn't have any
bad chemical smells, when it was wet or even
when I was sanding it. Once both sides are dry,
I used a Dremel to get the flat surfaces that
I want on the foreheads of the skulls, and the back curves for the crossguard blades. This worked really well. It carved very easily. But it did expose some large air holes that was in the clay. I cleaned the surface
and coated only the areas that had those big holes with Flex Seal. These holes are too big
for the spray version of Plasti-Dip to fill, so
I thought I would try this. It dries very smooth and really glossy, which is something to
remember for a future project. To make the pommels, I glue three layers of EVA floor mat together, and
just trace the bottom fork. The top cap I will add later. Cutting three layers on
the scroll saw is easy, much easier than sanding
these little parts on my belt sander. With both pommels shaped
the way that I want them, I heat a strip of styrene
plastic to make the cap. The Blades of Chaos have
chains attached to them, and I bought some lightweight
decorative chain to do that, but it will need something
a little stronger than just foam to attach to. Cut the styrene, glue the
styrene, and sand the pommel. I want to do more than just glue these on, so I cut down a carbon fiber
rod, and I drill out a hole in both the pommels and the wooden grips. With a bit of Gorilla
Glue, the pommels will be pretty secure on the grips. They should be able to be swung around. Because you know that is
going to happen at some Con. Someone is going to swing
these around by the chain. I just gotta wait for everything to dry and I can start painting it. The Gorilla glue didn't foam up much, so I had nothing to
clean up, which is nice. And with the holes in each pommel, I can hang the Blades from a coat hanger to paint them easier. I cover each Blade with
two coats of Plasti-Dip, and then a bright silver spray paint. I like how well the spray
paint sticks to Plasti-Dip. I think it holds better than
just directly on the foam. I mix up some acrylic
craft paints and make a light leather color and
paint the grips first. Since it's cold in my
shop, I set out a small fan and the acrylic paints will dry faster. Then, I use a brilliant
gold color on the skulls. The gold paint didn't
cover in a single coat, so I brushed on just a few
coats, avoiding brush marks and not having built
up places in the paint. It took about three coats to
cover the silver with gold. I use brown shoe polish on the grips to create a wash of
darker color and to get a rich tone in the leather brown. I try to wipe off the high places, and just leave the shadows in the polish. After the brown dried, I
use some black shoe polish on the silver and gold,
watering down the shoe polish with a spray of water first. I really like the metal
color that I get from this blackwash over
the bright spray paint. It knocks the super
brilliant silver and gold from looking like a Christmas ornament. You can skip the water step and get an even darker metal color, if you want. I wipe away as much of the
drips as I can as I go, even on the undersides. You can wipe them off
later after they dry, but that could hurt the paint. I also just add a little
bit of black to the hilt, just at the details. And then fully coat the pommels. These guys really need to be darkened up. The last touch is to add
the decorative chain. This silver-color chain came with this great black over spray,
so all I need to do is force open a ring and
clamp it to each pommel. I have about seven feet of
chain that I have attached to each blade and then I
can wrap around each arm. It's really nice not having
Athena taunt you about it the whole time while you are doing it. (electronic music) Most of the materials
I used for this project I picked up locally. I put a part list in the description. I've completed the Blades
of Chaos from God of War. Now these are just completely EVA foam. There really isn't anything else inside so it still has some flex to them. But because the blades are so wide, I really wasn't worried about that so I wasn't concerned
about having a full handle that went all the way
through to keep it stiff. One thing I'm pleased with is the Foam-Mo that I had used for the skulls. I got a really good
organic shape, I think, on these skulls. I've seen other sites
where they've actually just used thin foam and kind of folded it to make the skulls or they would actually just kinda grind them out with a Dremel. Both of which work perfectly well. But this worked really well for me. Which I'm glad because
this is how Odin makes. I want to say thank you to
all my Patreon subscribers. You guys really help with
keeping this channel going. If like this video or have
any ideas for something for me to make, please leave a comment below. And if you build any of these projects, you can send me a picture. Come on. The chains weigh more than the sword. Oh (beep) you.
